Final thoughts on Thailand

Jane's Final thoughts:
I feel so fortunate to have had yet another amazing experience...and if you've been following, you know exactly why so I sure don't need to go into any more detail...only thanks for all your support & kind words. I so hope you too feel as blessed.

Rog's Final Thoughts on Thailand:
Longtail boats on the river in Bangkok, Thai food with ants and ant eggs, Spring green rice paddies, water buffalo being led by children with a rope, children sleeping on the family motorcycle as they are being carried home, beautiful sunsets, cobras being caught bare handed by their handlers...

As we prepare to leave for America we have said many goodbyes and often are asked,

"Do you like Thailand? Will you come to visit again?"
I reply, " Thailand has been wonderful to visit. The people are so friendly and everyone smiles and waves when they see you. The children are very respectful and everyone has fun and often there is laughter whenever people
are together (which seems like most of the time). The country is beautiful and warm (when it isn't hot)! There are beautiful beaches and fascinating ruins of previous civilizations. So Yes, I would love to return someday."

...but there is still much of the world that we haven't seen so it is not likely that we will be back to Thailand.

Thailand #31

Up Country:
At 8 p.m. we met up with Cori (30 yr old from Idaho wheat farm), Skye (23 yr old nurse from hills of Alabama) & Jup & jumped into a cab to the bus station for a 6 hour trip to Bplaa Bplaa Chi in the Buriram Providence which is about the only area we hadn't been to. Around 3:30 a.m., we stumbled off the bus & got into the back of a pick up truck for the 30 minute ride to Prong's (Thai former bar girl) home. We crashed until 8 p.m. & then jumped back into the pick up to meet up with a group called Operation Blessings Foundation. They are all Thai except for one doctor who is English but lives along with the rest of them in Chaing Mai. They are a Christian group that do many outreach programs throughout Thailand--one of the very few Thai groups. We went to a small village of mostly Cambodians and set up a clinic that included taking blood pressure, height, weight, doctor check up, Rx if needed, reading glasses, lice check & shampoo if needed, haircut and time with a Christian prayer partner/councilor. Luckily we had several interpreters available as the local spoke Khmer to the Thai who translated it to English for us. I was kept busy at the reading glass center--guessing as best I could what each person needed--often I think they just wanted the free glasses as wearing glasses is very popular here. Rog spent the morning doing misc. stuff & the afternoon helping me. We chuckled when we finally decided which glasses worked for the locals & they gave us a huge grin--which meant showing their black, crooked & missing teeth. I could not help but think how much more they needed a dentist!!! We were sure ready for a shower & rest when we got back to Prong's. Around 5, we walked around her village to remind people that the clinic would be at her house the next day. After an hour or so, a pick up truck came by--so typical as we really never knew what was going to happen next--so in we hopped & soon arrived at a local church where we ate (well, I did the best I could) and then a rousing church service that began with Blessed be the Name in Thai. The minister--who had been at the clinic with us--announced that we had serviced 334 people and 135 had accepted Jesus. Long & loud hallelujah shouts filled the room. Next morning at 6:30, Rog & I were cleaning red hot peppers to be added to the breakfast menu that fed the clinic workers. While they ate, I washed my hands and ate a granola bar!! Though the crowd was smaller that day--Prong was beaming as it was all her friends & neighbors being helped...thanks to her. Again, I worked the reading glass station & Rog cut some hair. The local women prepared lunch--which included fresh ant & ant eggs cooked with the rice. I have pictures to prove that I am married to a truly crazy man who ate them and licked his lips when done. A local told us that it was a very special treat to have ants & eggs as you only get them once a year & it was a sign that the rainy season would be good. I much prefer plum pudding once a year and ate yet another peanut butter sandwich. After dismantling the clinic set up, shower & rest, 11 of us climbed on 4 motorcycles and rode around 8-10 miles to Prong's friend's restaurant. Dinner was fun as a bucket with a hot charcoal chula with a small grill on top was set in the middle of the table. First you poured chicken broth into a bowl that surrounded the grill& when it boiled added the cabbage, beans, etc.. You put some suet on top & then laid chicken & liver on. In other words--a fondue type experience. On the way home we stopped at a drive in movie that had been set up. Prong told us a local person had died & so his family was expected to give her village a party. Another day we'd seen several small groups partying & she had told us it was because the king had a dream that included a certain name so he had announced that anyone with that name must have a party for their neighbors...and Thai do whatever the kings says. Next morning 6 a.m., the pick up arrived so we could help at the clinic set up in another small village about an hour away. Since we were out of free glasses, I was measuring height...and did a mental survey of the condition of teeth compared to age. Not one my age had white teeth or all their teeth. By age 40, most had lost teeth & had many cavities. Even by age 5, cavities were obvious. Good thing they live on rice. Rog spent his day with the many kids helping to educate them about brushing their teeth, checking for head lice & do lice shampooing when needed. After a group photo & many, many hugs, we were headed back to Prong's stopping by to check out some Cambodian/Khmer ruins. It had been a full and fulfilling three days and we were ready for Sunday--a day of rest.

English Doctor:
One of the marvelous things about helping out, is meeting the other people who are helping out. The English doctor,Jill is just one example. She & her husband adopted 3 Thai children who were around 10 and after a couple years of trying to raise them in England, decided to move them back to their home country as the adjustment was just too great for them. They have lived here about 8 yrs now & she spends a weekend a month plus a ten day trip working with Operation Blessings clinics. She felt strongly that the Thai Christian churches needed to take over the work that western missionaries have been doing for years--allowing the Thai to become dependent on them. She was thrilled when a couple young Thai girls were assigned to help her so she could train them a bit & encourage them to become nurses or doctors. Jill felt that even though it was quite cheap for the Thai to go to the doctors & Thai has excellent health care--most Thai doctors... who are Buddhist... did not care about treating the poor (which is most Thai)--and to appease them, they just five them lots of pills--and more if they come back. She'd only met a few Christian Thai doctors who actually cared about truly treating the poor. And since there is much inbreeding in the small villages, there is a much higher number with genetic diseases. As I watched her with patient after patient, I could almost see the love flowing out of her hands & eyes.

Religion:
Several people have added to our understanding of major religions of the country we are in as we have travel about and it often seems that many of the problems stem from those religions. For example, the Buddhist believe in doing merit (good deeds) so that they can achieve a higher next life. Not that they care for the people they do good deeds for--those poor are poor because of their previous life. So the good deed is for themselves. Similar to the Hindu belief. Both for the good of self only. Also, there is little community feeling as they worship individually. Even the Christian churches have a hard time convincing their members to serve others as it's just not been their mindset. American's giving nature is very rare here...and for that reason & many more, I feel so lucky & proud to be an American and Christian.

My Buddy:
One the first day of the clinic I met a Thai woman who said she was Joker--I wasn't sure if it was her name or just a nickname but since I grinned, she laughed and hugged me. After that, every time we met she'd wink at me & say my buddy--then we'd lace our little fingers & she'd turn her checks so I could kiss her and she'd give me the biggest belly laugh. Every time the group got together for meals or pre/post meeting or church service, she was the life of the party shouting out things that must of been funny cause everyone would crack up. Day 2 she said if I came the next day, she had a green scarf she would give me. The last day, sure enough, she had a beautiful green scarf she wrapped around me and then she had an interpreter ask me to stay with her in Thailand. I said I'd rather have her come stay with me in America. She got so excited and started shouting America. I showed her a picture of our house & she kept saying--Me America. And since she was rather large, she indicated she needed a big seat on the airplane. She asked for my email & said she'd write. We parted doing our ritual one more time. I sure I could have brought that laugh home with me!!

Sunday Church:
15 people--mostly relatives & their kids--gathered in front of Prong's & soon the pick up came by taking us to the local church where for over 2 hours there was much passionate praising going on and followed by a potluck dinner. Lucky for us, Rog & I ended up sitting on mats in the back with the kids spending our time coloring & playing with stickers. Though it would have been nice to know what was being said--it was fun being with the kids who crawled all over us. We did get to spend time with the minister who spoke good English. He's a builder by trade which explained why he had a nice big home next to the church...which he & his wife share along with their college educated daughter who choice to join them in their ministry and 12 local orphan children they take care of. Several times, one of the orphans would come over to him & he would pick them up and hug them so lovingly. Truly a unique and admirable man in a land where most men don't even care for their own children.

Coconut Run:
When asked if I wanted to go get some coconuts, I said sure & hopped on the motorbike for a short ride to a neighbor's back yard. He took a large bamboo stick with a knife on the end and in a few minutes, I was dodging the falling coconuts. Jup grabbed a hatchet type knife and cut off the end. With a glass over the hole, the coconut was tipped over and out flowed the coconut milk. We drank that sweet stuff up & then cracked up the coconut so we could spoon out the meat. Mmmmmm. After about just a 15 minute stop, we headed back carrying six coconuts for later.

Pedicure/Manicure:
As we sat on the porch with the fan blowing on us, one of Prong's nieces walked over and asked if she could polish my toenails & fingernails. Sure! She meticulously worked on cleaning my toenails--a huge feat (pun)--and then polished them with much expertise...all while salamanders, mosquitoes, flies & various other insects buzzed around us. She also offered to give me a massage but I didn't take her up on that because she'd already done so much...for only a smile & piece of gum from me.

Thai Cooking Lesson:
The guide books tell you to make sure you take a Thai cooking class--and that's just what I did--in Prong's kitchen preparing fried rice & stir fried veges with a pinch of salt, cane sugar, spices , greens from her garden, soy sauce and freshly crushed garlic. Rog is hoping I will cook it often in USA.

Silk Production:
Silk has long been a main source of income here in the villages. Prong's mom has done it her whole life. We watched each morning as she fed her worms gobs of mulberry leaves and later as she pulled the silk from the cocoon & spun it ever so carefully. What a time consuming job that would end up earning her so little and yet produce such beauty!!

Prong:
A woman torn and struggling as she tries to recover from her life in Bangkok bars. She talked about how often she thought how hard it is to make money to support her two kids & mom by spinning silk & making dresses, purses & scarves from it. How much more she earned as a bar girl. But she knew that it was wrong and degrading and more than anything, she had to show her daughter, nieces & other young village girls that you could have a good life without going to Bangkok bars. What an inspiration!

Back to Bangkok:
As we pulled away from the bus station headed back to Bangkok, Prong, her daughter, sister, several nieces & nephews & our trusty truck driver stood waving & throwing kisses. We felt so much like they had welcomed us and that we had had a true Thai family experience. We were sure glad we'd taken that leap of faith. On the ride home, we had lots of time to hash over the last several days remember lots to laugh about, learn more about each other and also learn more about The Well from Jup, Cori & Skye.

Sex Trade:
During the Viet Nam War Bangkok came to be #1 in sex trade in the world. The friendly and mild mannered people are easily lured to the city as they search for a way to provide for their families and/or escape the labor of life in the rice fields. Debt and increased expectations for material possessions combined with low education levels and unwillingness to adapt to changing markets or use new technology efficiently has led to financial difficulties in the rural areas. Many young women are encouraged by their own parents to go to Bangkok so they can can send money to support their families remaining in the countryside. The best chance for the women to provide long term support for their families is for them to find a Western man who will give them money. This may also mean a life of comforts and relative ease. The women often feel that they cannot depend on their Thai husbands to stay with them and provide for their families. So when the men leave, children are left with relatives and they go to Bangkok to get money to send home. It becomes a terrible cycle of despair for families caught in this as they are the example for the next generation.

Sight Seeing in Bangkok:
In the two days we had to sight see, we crammed in: Jim Thompson's--American WWII vet who served in Thai and came back to rejuvenate the silk industry & at 61 went for a walk in the jungle & never was seen again--house which is now a museum as he had been a collector of Thai paintings & crafts; dragged Rog to the snake farm where they milk to venomous snakes to make the antivenin needed in this country where there's over 10,000 bites a year; rode the ferry all the way to the end & back; and enjoyed a quiet afternoon by a pond in a large central park.

Thailand #30

Restaurants:
Just have to describe many of the restaurants in Thailand. In smaller villages, if you have a house that opens on a street, you just need to put a couple tables near the street and fill a half barrel with charcoal & poof...you have a restaurant. How handy...you just serve whatever you cook for your family. Maybe I should try that on Dancer Road!!! In the bigger towns, you can set up on any street...in front of any store...even 7/ll and clean fancy restaurants...you just need a propane tank, an enormous pan, various size dishes of whatever and you got yourself a restaurant. Chairs & tables are optional. Our guidebook says they are safe to eat at...and Rog has done that several times but I much prefer going into 7/ll.


Back in Bangkok--Puppet Show:
Goodbye beach--Hello Bangkok! We arrived back just in time to catch the Aksra Puppet Show and what a delight!! Ornately decorated puppets about 3 ft. tall were gracefully made to dance by three performers creating scenes from long ago with fabulous backgrounds. All together there were 7 scenes which included cock fights, kick boxing, Buddha worship, romantic encounter ,Hindu goddess worship , an elaborate carnival... and the funniest was the monkey gods who after performing came out to play with the audience. Music, lighting & other stage effects made it most entertaining. (Sorry Elsi you had to missed it--you would have been pinching yourself until you were black & blue!!)



The Well:
Their website: http://www.servantworks.com/well
We had arranged to meet Cori who was introduced to us via email by Matt & Heather Hook. They work for a ministry called The Well that is trying to help girls caught in the sex trade find a better life. Cori is an Idaho farm girl and she spent most of the afternoon showing us around The Well...sewing, jewelry, painting, classrooms. We also had the privilege to meet Jim & Judy Larson from Chicago who are the founders. We had quite an in depth discussion about what needs to happen in Thailand to reduce the sex trade situation without changing the many wonderful things about the Thai culture. They certainly have a grand and long range vision for the future. The long and short of it is that somehow the farmers need to make more money so they can provide food & education for their families. Currently, their daughters often go to big cities to make money to send home...and since they have limited education & skills...the sex trade gobbles them up. What a tragedy...
So after offering to help in anyway we could, we were asked to travel with Cori & Jup (Thai minister) & a local nurse to upcountry village...we aren't sure where or how long or for sure how we are getting there but...off we go. As we said in India--Take a Leap of Faith and See the Journey!!


Where else would you see...
-toilet paper used for napkins??
-taxi motorcycles...roaring down the sidewalk?
-sundresses with Fun in the Snow stitched on it?

Misspellings:
We are always getting a kick out of the many misspellings & unusual wording used but after noticing how we mispronounce many Thai words, we thought maybe we misspell a lot of words from other countries based on how we pronounce them. So maybe we shouldn't laugh.

Thailand 29

Stay in Udon Thani:
We had to spend a day in Udon Thani waiting to catch a train back to Bangkok so we did our usual stroll around looking for whatever. What we found was lots of bars and even more western men with young Thai girls. It made me angry. So many of the men were old or fat or just ugly or a combination. Udon was a US military base in the 60's and our guide book said that's when Udon became much more westernized. Another casualty of war. On the lighter side, we did have the opportunity to buy some fried crispy & crunchy variety of bugs including caterpillars, locust & grasshoppers...right outside a most plush five story mall. And right around the corner was a McDonald's--can you guess what I choose to eat???? Speaking of eating, since it was very difficult finding food we could eat in Nong Ban Lampu, we had eaten up most of the supply of food we'd brought from USA. Luckily, we found a large grocery store (very rare) and found Jiffy peanut butter & granola bars--first time we'd seen either of these in Thai. They also had cheese--but at about $10 for a 1/2 lb I figured I could wait until I got home to indulge.


Train ride from Udon to Bangkok:
We were sure ready to leave Udon...and anxious to see the country side. We'd purchased a 2nd class ticket (air cond) but after discovering the windows were dirty...we headed back to the 3rd class seats where the open windows kept you cool & we could clearly see the rice paddies, water buffalos, farmers, groves of banana, coconut, pineapple and rubber trees, small towns, mountains and rivers. Soon we saw a pattern...open farm fields, shacky houses, less shacky houses, a few nice homes, village, a few nice homes, shacky houses, more shacky house, open farm fields...etc. Though we had thought we'd see more during the 12 hour train ride...we sure felt like we'd seen lots of Thailand and after about 7 hours as 3rd class got crowded & hot...we gladly went back to our 2nd class air cond seats to eat our PB sandwiches.


Back in Bangkok...only to catch ride to Ko Sumet:
Somewhere along the line, someone recommended a hotel in Bangkok so when we arrived late & tired, we just showed the name to a taxi driver and soon found ourselves in gorgeous hotel. At $85, it was the most we'd paid since Pucket but...it was nice to be in a luxury with a great view of the city lights! After asking for info about getting to Ko Sumet, they quickly lined us up with a mini bus ride the next morning complete with ferry ride to the island--and they'd handle the luggage (which we were tired of hauling around & which we have promised ourselves never travel with so much luggage again!!!) On the ferry ride there, we heard there were no rooms available on the island as it was Music Festival weekend (Thais have many festivals) but we'd already adopted the India & Thai motto: No problem...and there wasn't as the ferry dropped us at a hotel with available bungalows...and handled our luggage so by noon...we were sitting a tropical island beach.

Ko Sumet:
Now I won't go into much detail as I certainly don't want to make anyone too jealous...let's just say it was everything you dream of...emerald green warm water, white powdery sand, lush shade trees, 80 degree sunny weather, fresh fruits, cold diet coke, bungalow with air, western bathroom & frig...in other words, paradise...for $50 a night...though we could have just rented a tent & slept on the beach for much cheaper. We hunkered down from 3 days on a pineapple diet. Pineapple pancakes, smoothies, in fresh salads with pineapple dressing and grilled on kabobs with meats/onion/tomatoes/potatoes/corn. MMMMM. I'm addicted. Though I must admit, fresh coconut smoothies come in a close second!!! Lots of Thai families were there also. It was a joy watching them frolic in the water...usually with their clothes on... and enjoying all the food cooked & sold on the beach. We also saw lots of western men with young Thai girls. Grrrr. We took a cruise of the smaller islands around, snorkeling a bit. Though we saw lots of fish & coral, we only caught glimpses of the radiant color that reminded us of our best snorkeling at St. John's. We also visited a fish & turtle farm where we were a bit nervous walking the ancient planks with no guard rails next to pools of huge sharks, groupers & giant turtles. We discovered a trail that led to a cliff where we could watch the sunset...and reflect on just how fortunate we are.




Shame on me...
I have to admit, I was feeling a bit bummed about not having a beach front bungalow... but God has a way of opening my eyes. We took a walk on the dirt road that ran through the center of the island and there we saw where the smiling & eager to please waiters & vendors live. Back in the mosquito invested jungle without the cool ocean breeze or view and far, far from the beach...and without the time to lounge there anyways. Shame on me.

Update #28

Another Bulletin Board:
So what happens when someone is impressed with the job you did??? They ask you to do it! There was another large bulletin board that was looking shabby so we weren't too surprised when sister asked us to redo it. It was a Kid of the Month board so we brainstormed some ideas & let sister pick the one she wanted. Next we were off to the office supply store again for supplies for an underwater scene with a fish for each kid. Again, we got rave reviews ...and though we sure didn't expect to dig up that part of our teaching experience...we were glad to please & fill the need.

Broken and Angry Children:
Sister Marie Paul spent much time with us today talking about her children...broken and angry. First they were rejected by parents & then the orphanage they were first in rejected them due to their AIDS and on top of it all, they are so confused & angry about having AIDS through no fault of their own. They have been loved by no one. They trust no one. Sisters' love is the first and it has taken them years to quell some of that anger and soothe their broken hearts just a bit. I must admit spending time with them was tough as they were quite wild and it was only with a bit of humor that I could get them to stop painting the table, or taking from my supply bag whatever they wanted, or cutting up good paper, or etc.... Sister has been to some training but is often at a loss as to how to handle situations. I think she felt like she could confide in us and use us as a sounding board...listening ears. I hope so.

Painting/Cutting/Glitter Marathon:
When the kids came home on Valentines Day, we were ready...and it's a good thing. The first ones came about 4:30 and the last ones left around 8:30!! They painted, cut &/or glittered nearly every piece of paper we had. We showed them how to make hearts...and soon there were hearts everywhere. Glitter was the highlight. Some painted slowly and with much skill...others loved being able to paint the entire sheet with multiple colors. By 8, the room was lined with drying art work and the kids, sisters, a teacher & some Vietnam visiting priest were walking around admiring the work. When I realized that the crowd, paint, glitter & scissors was getting a bit too much in one room, the teacher in me came out. I motioned for them to follow & Rog and I each grabbed a taller kid to form a London Bridge--and a better place for all their energy. When we tired of that, we had them sit in a large circle and showed them how to play Duck, Duck, Goose. Though I am sure they had no idea what a duck or goose was--they caught on quickly. They loved picking Rog as he tried to corner them and out smart them by reversing the direction he ran. So who cares it broke the rules--it sure made them laugh!! Finally--it was time for the kids to go to bed (and us too!). The sisters led the kids in singing the same Thank you song that the kids in Kolkata sang to us--only in Thai first and then English. We gave each a chocolate gold coin & a huge hug. Several ran out and picked blossoms off the tree to give us. The sisters thanked us profusely and we in turn thanked them for opening their home & hearts to us. What a full and loving Valentines Day! p.s. And to add even more delight to the day, I savored two diet cokes & a Dove chocolate bar...Rog ate a Black Chocolate bar (Thai product).

Kindness everywhere in Thailand:
Here's just a few of the kind acts that the Thai do for us all the time--
-While unsuccessfully trying to tag down a taxi, a young girl asked us where we were headed & then literally jumped in front of the next taxi that went by, told the driver where we were headed & negotiated the price, smiled & waved good bye as we drove off.
-One evening, rather late, we were trying to find a art supply store. As we walked by a grocery store, the keeper came out & asked us if he could help. After telling us the art store was not near, he handed us four oranges and bowed.
-As I was sitting in a bus stop, I was curiously looking at something a young man was drinking. He spoke up and told me what it was--in Thai--and seemed to indicate where I could buy some. I just smiled & shook my head no. Then just as we went to get on the bus, he brought me over two cold water bottles. He had the biggest grin on his face & refused money.
-Though Rog often has to lug around his suitcases, I seldom do as Thai gentlemen quickly take mine.

Service everywhere in Thailand:
Remember gas attendants? Door attendants? etc...they are still here.

Education:
We can't believe how many schools/colleges we see as we travel about. Thais put a high emphasis on education. Many appear to be boarding schools & all require uniforms. Even the colleges. They are well maintained & quite nice with ornate gates surrounding them. I did chuckle as we passed one ornate gilded entrance gate...with a water buffalo lounging right in front of it.

Happy Valentine Day to all of you! Sure hope you have many & much to love!! We see lots of red hearts and flowers around here also as the Thai celebrate this holiday also.

Motorcycle:
After church, we stood talking to the few English speaking people. One man was from Italy and was with a Thai woman (wife??) who told us all about many plants & herbs that she uses --some rubbed on during massages & other brewed to drink. She said they have been used for thousands of years & many westerners come to Thailand to be healed by them. She said she could make me look 20 years younger...it was tempting to just leave with her and forget about working with the kids!! The Italian then offered to take us with them as they went out for a drive to a beautiful, peaceful place nearby...again tempting but we'd already told the sisters we'd work with the kids. So the Italian offered his girlfriend/wife's bike...free! He practically insisted so within the next ten minutes, we had keys to a Scoopy0 (Honda)!! So later in the day (while the kids napped), we took off for some back country going through several small villages & past many fields. Imagine giving your motorcycle keys to someone you just met--who didn't even have a Thai driver's license. But as they say here all the time with a smile...No Problem.

Sunday PM:
Seems like we just never know what's going on next. After church, we were ready to get the kids painting...and found out they were going to a class on HIV/AIDS. Not sure why or who was presenting as two sisters told me they didn't think it was wise to give the kids so much information about their disease. It only upset them & most could not understand the information. So we thought we'd paint around noon. Wrong again. Some local high school students came around noon & set up to serve lunch and a live band performed...loudly. Many high school girls encouraged the kids to dance but they were being shy so one of the sisters took several kids' hands and started dancing with them...so of course, Rog & I joined in. I know what you are thinking...we certainly aren't the best ones to show anyone how to dance... Sister was having a ball & I joined her in a line dance she'd gotten started with a couple girls. Can you picture that! I was grinning from the inside out and wishing I had it on video!! I later told sister that she reminded me of Whoopi Goldberg in the movie, Sister Act!! She belly laughed!

Auytthaya:
What wat?? That's the question we had to ask each other after seeing so many new & ancient wats (temples). The ruins here cover a much larger area than Suhkathai or Lop Buri--as it was the major city of the Siam empire for over 400 years. Today's city is built all around the ruins so you can walk from a 7/ll across the street from a 700 year old wat. So strange. As we walked around, often a vehicle with a loud speaker shouting something passed by or the speakers mounted on poles would start blaring what sounded like a talk show ...no idea what they were saying but cracked us up. Just before sunset--we hopped in long boat that took us around the moat/river that surrounded the city. Seeing the ruins with the crimson sunset light as a backlight was gorgeous. We also got to see the many houses that line the moat/river--all on stilts--some very modern & fancy, some almost falling into the river & several dilapidated houseboats where friendly locals waved & smiled as we passed. We shared the river with party boats built like arks & several barges pulled by tugboats. Having seen enough wats, we took a tuk tuk 25 miles to Ban Sai's arts/craft center where the queen set up a site where handicapped & small villagers can get training in over 30 crafts so they can improve their income. The queen's retreat home is there as well as a bird park. We saw the most amazing totally white peacock and several huge hornbills. When we went back at our arranged time to hop in our tuk tuk, we found our driver hooking up a rope to replace his broken fan belt. We agreed to stick around as he drove to a local shop to get a new fan belt...which gave us time to check out the training shops where we could watch them as they worked. Fortunately, the ride back to Auytthaya was uneventful!


Overnight train ride to Udon Thani:
At 9:20 p.m. we climbed aboard the train--Rog in car 9 & me in 10--and crawled into our top berths. Though small, they were quite comfortable...until the train started to move & then I found out that Rog had the better berth. Mine was right over the wheels & next to the open door between cars. That made for a rocky, noisy night!! It took a bit to fall asleep, but lucky for me, I sleep pretty sound. Rog's berth was in the center of his car & so less noise & motion. At 7:15 a.m., we were there! We soon found a driver to take us the hour & a half drive to Nang Bua Lamphu...in search of Mother Teresa's mission there.



Mother Teresa's Home for AIDS Children:
It was a welcoming site when we saw the Missionary of Charity sisters who warmly greeted us and were eager to hear about our experience in Kolkata. Such fond memories were easy to speak about. They said their 18 children would be thrilled to have visitors and would love doing art projects with us. They had a driver take us to a nearby hotel--just $10 per night with air & western bathroom--and an internet cafe next door & a 7/11 just down the street :). Since the children were in school until 4, we checked out the town & took a quick nap. At 4, we had playdough, coloring sheets & drawing paper ready to go. Kids quickly joined us & in no time, all were busy. Looking around I couldn't help but think that we were so lucky to be able to spend some fun time with these orphan AIDS children who's parent probably already died of AIDS & who's life will probably be way too short.

Their Website

Honda Day At MT's:
After spending the morning creating flowers, the kids were treated to a fun couple hours provided by the local Honda dealer. They set up a relay where the kids & many of their employees had to 1-blow flour off a coin & pick it up with their teeth 2-drop the coin into a cup 3-eat a banana and 4-drink a glass of punch. Then they played musical chairs followed by a bowl of soup & ice cream...us too. Then it was nap time so off we went to shop for bulletin board supplies.

Bulletin Board:
As soon as Sister Marie Paul MC found out we were retired teachers, she asked if we'd redo a bulletin board that had pictures of the kids--about 3-4 years ago. Truly we had experience doing that. We'd seen a store filled with paper & cut outs so we filled up a cart, had the kids create some flowers & leaves, added new pictures of the kids the nuns provided in the center of the flowers and presto...a colorful new bulletin board. The four nuns were so impressed. One said God must of sent us to them as the apples on the old bulletin board were certainly rotten! As the kids came back after their naps, they were so excited!! You'd think it was a Christmas tree!

Game Afternoon:
We found chess & checker boards while in town, so we set that up as well as some games of five square & dots and gave each kid 4 pipe cleaners. So in no time, all were engaged in some game, creating things with pipe clearners or enjoying a bowling with the play dough. The sisters said usually the kids are so antsy and were so glad to see them all so engaged. As we walked to the evening church service, the sisters said many of the kids were asking how long we were going to stay...

Dinner:
We found a restaurant called The Best so in we went...to find out those were the only two words in English on the menu & no one there spoke English. I decided I'd stop at 7/ll later. After pointing to someone's rice & a picture of chicken, Rog thought all was good. Hot rice came & so he ate it thinking they must not have figured out he wanted chicken also. He then asked for the bill & our waitress cracked up laughing & pointed to the kitchen. Quite a bit later, chicken came & more rice (probably cause he'd eaten the first). A few bites convinced him that the chicken was the fat/joint pieces we toss...fried really crispy. That didn't convince him to stop eating...just added more hot sauce. Warm water (didn't trust ice) washed it all down. I did stop at 7/ll, got a Coke Lite, Lays chips & a ham & cheese sandwich--one half had ham on it & the other half had the cheese. Close enough!

Just a quick note to let you know we arrived in Udon Thani & are headed for Mother Teresa's mission about 50 K from here...try to write more later??

Thailand #25

Safe Haven Learning Center background:
As we rode to Mae Sot with Simon (the Australian who has been helping Tasanee for years, he explained how he would like to build some additional structures at Safe Haven so he can bring the children from Safe Haven Learning Center to live with those at the orphanage. He told us that a fundamentalist religious group from the USA had originally taken charge of the kids & moved them to the Learning Center site but had pulled out and they actually took materials (wiring, plumbing, etc.) when they left and stopped providing support. Recently that group returned and wanted to take ( or kidnap) the children-and that is why the children were brought to Safe Haven and "hid out" all day with us. That was the day they came to "visit" and stayed all day... Sometimes it is better not to know the entire story!

Traveling notes:
I need to mention that when we were trying to get to Mae Sot's bus station, we started walking down a road pulling our luggage. As we went by a barber shop, the barber came out & asked where we were headed. When he found out, he said I will take you. He then ran across the road, got his truck & off we went--leaving the barber shop door open. When we offered to pay, he totally refused. Thai service!

Driving:
The road we took to Sukhothai in the back of a truck was so curvy that it felt like we were on a go cart track & that yellow line must have just been a suggestion.

Luxury:
Imagine how great it felt to take a hot shower, swim in a cool pool, swing in a bamboo hammock, drink cold Diet Coke & relax in an air conditioned room! A month without those luxuries made it all feel so wonderful!! First night in Sukhothia, Jane feasted on a ham & cheese sandwich, chips & cold diet coke--all purchased at a 7/11!! Rog totally loves the Thai food and so he feasted at a local Thai restraurant.

Sukhothia After Thoughts:
After spending a couple days admiring the majestic remains of a kingdom over 700 years ago, reading about the King (whose name already I can't remember) who rode his treasured white elephant to the temple at the top of a hill overlooking his city and remembering The King & I--it again made us realize that even the most grandeur buildings & society doesn't guarantee fame or lasting value.

Train ride to LopBuri/Ayutthaya:
Third class is cheap & not that bad! Rog, of course, knew which side to sit on so we didn't have the sun on us & the open window kept us cool. Vendors walked the aisle selling all sorts of food--most we could not recognize-made us glad we had packed bread, peanut butter & chips so all we needed to purchase was cold water. We traveled for miles seeing the lush spring green rice fields dotted with farmers. Probably 200 miles or more. That's a lot of rice!! About every 20 miles, we came through small towns. The houses on the outskirts were made of bamboo or sawed wood with corrugated metal roofs--pretty rough looking--but as you got closer to the center, the houses were made of cement & tiled roofs & much nicer. Though beautiful bushes bloomed everywhere--there seemed to be no landscaping plan. At one stop, we were joined by a man who was very loud and friendly but we soon realized also very drunk. He spoke to us in Thai and seemed to encourage us to take pictures of rice fields, birds, ponds, etc. He smiled and bounced around as the train rocked its way along. Soon the rocking motion put him to sleep and after a short nap, the conductor stopped by to check his ticket. He quickly got off the train (he was on the wrong one). After he got off a young woman who was sitting nearby came up to us and asked if we were OK. She had been concerned because the man was so loud and she was afraid he was bothering us. How thoughtful of her! It is nice to know that there are good people around us. Though it was a long six hour trip, we were glad we'd seen some country side & meet a few more Thai.

LopBuri:
We got off the train in Lop Buri--mostly to see the monkeys. They were everywhere: hopping from moving car to car, tightrope walking the electric lines, using umbrellas as trampolines & happily climbing over the ruins. Lop Buri is is site of many ruins some of which date to the Khmers who built an empire centered around Angkar Wat in Cambodia. We went to see the "Monkey Feast" at the ruins of the Monkey Palace. Locals feed the monkeys a lot of fruit in one area and we think it encourages the monkeys to stay in just that area rather than spreading throughout the city. There we saw newly born monkeys clutching & nursing.
Jane has sometimes complained of having a monkey on her back...but in Lop Buri she really did have one and then another and another. Real ones first on her leg then on her back. Finally, as we were walking out of town toward the train station one last brave monkey snatched a plastic bag she was carrying and tore it open, spilling out a loaf a bread meant for peanut butter sandwiches. She just laughed as he made off with her lunch.



How do you know when you have been in a third world country a loooong time??
When you first start looking for the water source used to fill a container so you can "flush"...only to discover, there is handle for flushing!!!

Ayutthaya:
Who'd have guessed that we'd arrive on the Chinese New Year's!! And boy do they celebrate that! One long street was filled with set tables covered with pink tablecloths where hunreds of Chinese wearing red shirts ate numerous courses and watched several performances on a ornate stage complete with two large screens for better viewing. Often the entertainers were mimicing western performers. Vendors lined the side of the street cooking up huge amounts of who knows what and others selling an array of items. Some food items we did recognize: duck, octopus tentacles, squid, shrimp (live tank next to it), pig ears, pig jowls, rice dishes galore, egg omelets, etc. Most smelled good but we opted for pizza & ice cream. As we laid down to go to sleep, we could still hear fireworks, gongs & merriment.

Thailand #24

Quick thoughts:
-Been thinking about the song "Jesus Love the Little Children..red & yellow, black & white..." What about brown??? There's sure lots of them around here!!
-And how about the Our Father...Give us this day our daily bread...around here it's daily rice...shouldn't that be revised for here??

Tires:
-No orange cones around here!! They cut tire in half & paint it red/white. Works.
-As a matter of fact, used tires are reincarnated in lots of ways: flower pots, garbage containers, toys, road side sighs, homemade carts etc


Bamboo:
-Bamboo has to be the most versatile building material. We've seen it used in: houses, scaffolding, furniture, hammocks, playpens, boats, clotheslines, shade coverings, fences, poles for beans, drain pipes, lamps etc. More valuable than gold!! And it grows wild everywhere!!!

Motorcycles:

So while I'm on this roll. You can't imagine the ways they use motorcycles--besides loading them with as many as 5 people!! The build carts they can pull behind, carts that fasten to the front, carts that fasten to the side & even added shade covers. Some are used to carry more than 5 people, huge loads of food/bamboo/animals/straw/etc and some have built in ice boxes to sell cold goods while others have hooked up propane tanks & fry foods to sell. If you need to move anything...a motorcycle is the answer!!

Wife and Groceries

Bamboo Chairs

Eggs

Food Stand

Thai Alphabet
-Thai alphabet--HUGE! 42 consonant sounds, 30+ vowel sounds & 6 tones. In other words--I won't be learning to speak much Thai!! And I thought it was a trick to teach reading in USA!!!



Sukhothai:
From Moe Sot, we hopped a bus and headed toward the city of Sukhothai where the ruins of the Siam empire that was mostly destroyed by the Burmese about the 15th century. We rented bikes & toured the ruins of the many (and I might say way too many) Buddist temples which are enourmous and very impressive. We just happen to get there just before sunset so watched the orange glow light up the huge Buddah. Once a month, there is a traditional show depicting the history of the area--and we lucked out!! We watched the show which included the lighting of about 30 paper latterns that then lifted ... floating slowly upward until they looked like stars in the dark sky. What a glorious sight!

Thailand #23

Saying Goodbye:
After a month, it was time to say good bye and move on...so at the evening service, we thanked everyone for warmly including us in their family and that we hoped they felt our love and God's love through us. We told them we admired their self-sufficiency & the smiles that seem to come from their hearts. We encouraged them to continue working hard at school and making good decisions. Then we sang Amazing Grace. When we finished, they all stood and sang in English..."May God Bless You" and then we were bombarded with hugs, kisses, jewelry & so many gorgeous cards & a few brand new Christmas cards which widen my smile even more. Tears filled my eyes as my arms were wrapped around several at a time. Then we went back to our room to finish packing. Soon there was a knock on our door...another card & hug...then another knock, card & hug...this went on until about 11 p.m... The last young man--about 14-- knelt down in front us with his head on the floor saying Dablue Pada. Thank you. Never have we felt more honored!!! The next morning, we again generously gave and received hugs & kisses as the kids jumped in the truck & headed to school. We stood there waving (and crying) until they disappeared down the road...but never from our hearts.

The Kids Off to School

Leaving Safe Haven:
As luck would have it, Simon was headed for Mae Sot so we hitched a ride. First we had more hugs from the adults who each gave us a card also. Paw So put a beautiful necklace on me and her card included several photos of herself...she who had so little and had lost so much. How can they be so loving and generous???? Tasanee's final words were--we will see you again. So with that, we were off. Simon shared a wealth of information on our drive to Mae Sot & Tasanee had arranged for us to stay in her town apartment so we got to see Johnny & Ruby. But the next morning.... we cut the cord and took off on our own.

Tasanee

Update:
We just left the Safe Haven Orphanage today and so we are in Mae Sot--large city about two hours drive away. From here we are going to do some touring around and head toward a Mother Teresa orphanage in the north east. We have learned not to make any definite plan as things just happen when they happen and usually, it's a pleasant surprise. Bekah has been doing a great job keeping up our blog if you want to read more about what we've been doing: rogerandjane@blogspot.com We have been thinking lots about you guys and wondering what is going on with you. We miss hearing the daily happenings and keeping up on how you are doing...so when you get a minute...drop us a line. We should be near internet cafes for the next week or so. Roger & Jane

Thailand #23

Lunch crowd:
It's funny how opportunities just seem to fall at our feet. As I was just finishing up some packing, Tasanee came back & said she was heading to the site where her friend Lina & the Noregian group (all of which we'd met three times already) where building a school & asked if we wanted to go. Why not? We jumped in and 45 minutes later were watching the crew constructing a wall made out of bricks that they had previously made & an adobe they were currently mixing up. Both were made up of soil, sand, rice husk & water. All natural products they could find locally for virtually free...and since it's against the law for them to cut down any of the local trees...this is a great alternative. When we arrived, a man was down in a 4 ft hole with a pick loosening up the soil. The sand, rice husk & water was thrown into the hole & the man used the pick to mix it all up. Then buckets were lowered & filled and used as a cement between the bricks & also to coat the wall as they finished. At noon, we went to Lina's for a feast. Around the table sat several architects (from Norway, Spain & German), a photojournalist who worked as an activist for the Karen tribe, a General in the Karen National Liberation Army and a man who does documentaries for Norway public TV as well as several locals. All sat around the table--on mats--having lively discussions. We ended up invited to the KNL army camp in Burma and found out the next documentary the man was producing was on the Sioux tribe in South Dakota! Crazy how in the back country of Thailand, we found ourselves in the middle of such a gathering!


Answered Prayer:
As I packed to leave, my prayer was that somehow these kids who already had lost so much, would not feel deserted by us. And the answered soon arrived: a young gal from England who will soon be joined by a young Canadian!! Leah, an elementary teacher, was bubbling with excitement & eager to take over the English & piano lessons & art activities...as well as our bedroom complete with art supplies, lesson books & the hammock. What a relief!!!

Simon:
When I first wrote to Safe Haven, it was Simon who replied so it was a treat to meet him when he came with bags of rice. He's an Australian, about 30+, who came for holiday about 7 years ago and stayed after meeting Tasanee & others. He earns his money creating websites and spends it helping two (or more??) orphanages. He also answers volunteer/donor emails and screens them before passing the valid ones on to Tasanee. If Tasanee has money needs, he searches for funding for her. He is very knowledgeable about the Thai/Burma conflict and feels like Mae Sot is a unique place as foreigners are safe here (the corrupt police don't want to call any foreign attention) yet just across the river, there is fighting. Here you can help those devastated by war--without being in the middle of the battle. And then there's Lina...

Lina:
A young gal from Norway who also came & stayed. She is using her architect skills and understanding of the Thai law and ways, to help several orphanages build cheap yet sound buildings. She recruits volunteers who she can brainstorm with and employs the locals. She also helps locate Norwegian markets for the scarves, skirts & shirts woven by widows as an income for them & the orphanage they work at. Meeting people like Lina & Simon is an honor.

Thailand #21

Evenings:
No more quiet evenings for us (we have a monster on our porch)! One night last week, we turned our porch light on as we were preparing an art project for the next day. Before we knew it, we were surrounded by kids asking for paper. That’s how the monster was created. Now every night, we have between 10 to 20 kids crowded on our porch coloring, drawing and cutting. Rog also made up several games that some of the kids are eager to play. One kid has beat him several times playing DOTS. At nine, we let them know it’s time to leave. They clean up, give us hugs & go off with big smiles.




Scorpion:
Tonight as the evening gang was here coloring & playing games, suddenly they all picked up their feet. I was no dummy, I picked up mine, too, even though I didn’t know why. Quickly the eldest girl took her pencil and carefully started jabbing at the fast moving insect that was running across the porch. After several attempts, it was dead and she used a shoe to push it over the side. Then she said, “No Mae Sot.” Guess that meant that had she been bitten by that scorpion--she’d be going to the hospital in Mae Sot. I had to think how lucky I was a couple weeks ago, when I had managed to kill a much larger scorpion in our bedroom!

Safe Haven Learning Center
When the kids from Safe Haven Learning Center were here, we asked if they wanted us to come there and do some art projects. With a big grin, they said “Yes, tomorrow.” So off we went with a back pack filled with paper, paint, scissors, crayons, colored pencils, glue, paste, glitter & play dough. As we descended the steep hill, kids met us to take the backpack & guide our steps. We needed both. We quickly set up 5 activities as the kids gathered. Within minutes about 50 kids & 3 adults were actively engaged. What a joy it was to watch! Big & small seemed to love every activity. Even Tasanee’s mother (76) was sitting there coloring. About 2 ½ hours later as it neared dinner time, we started cleaning up with lots of help. Then we passed out balloons & feathers and what a hullabaloo that created! We gave Gloria (the wife) a soccer ball and pump and you could see the gratitude in her sparkling eyes. Finally, Gloria’s daughter (17) took us on a tour. All the buildings were of bamboo and teak leaf roofs with no furnishings except one stand with one small TV, two chairs & a table in the church & two blackboards. No beds. No desks. And worst of all, no teacher. Walking between buildings was very difficult (though Tasanee’s mom made it look easy) as the hillside was so steep. I can’t imagine how they do it in the rainy season. The creek was dry so they had pipes that brought water from a higher mountain stream. And this is where over 50+ kids lived. 50+ kids who had no parents around--except Tasanee’s brother & his wife. 50+ kids who were not allowed to go to the public school--we can only guess why. 50+ kids that drew & painted gorgeous pictures of all the landscape that surrounds them & who filled the valley with their smiles & laughter. As we drove home, I was overwhelmed with the needs yet full of admiration for Tasanee (who provides them with as much food, clothing & blankets as she can) and her brother & his wife who lovingly care for them…hidden away deep in their valley.

Hot Water:
So after over two weeks, we’ve discovered hot water!! At breakfast, we get a pot of hot water for our coffee & hot chocolate. Duh! We now carry a small bowl & washcloth to breakfast & walk away having washed our faces with hot water!! Also, I found a large empty black container, rinsed it out, filled it with water & set it in the sun. Around 3 p.m., I can bathe with warm water!!

Hugs:
When we first arrived, the children bowed respectfully when they passed us. Slowly but surely the bow was followed by hugs. Each morning, several kids want a hug before jumping into the truck and heading for school. Each time I think, do they think about their mother when they are hugging me?? One little guy--about 5--often wants to sit closely to me and as I put my arm around him, he cradles himself next to my side with his eyes closed. My heart cries for him. How long ago was it his mother next to him?? On one particular day after an extra long hug, he jumped up, picked a nearby flower and gave it to me. Then both my heart and eyes cried for him.

Thailand #22

Washing

Doing the wash is no easy task here even with an automatic washing machine. First check to see that the valve is open that allows water to flow to the bathing/ bathroom/shower/ washing machine area. Note flow is a bit less than on previous days…Check the valve leading to the garden. It is partially open-some water is moving here. Close the garden valve to force all available water to the washing machine. Load washer only to find that there still is not enough water flowing to fill the machine. Use small plastic bowls to transfer water from bathing area storage tanks to the washing machine. Still no luck as the machine is trying to fill and apparently cannot sense that there is now sufficient water inside. With Tasanee and Chom gone to Mae Sot, concern about water for bathing, cooking, etc. sends us up the road to see if there is a problem with pipe. Finding no leaks along the road we (Jane and I) follow the pipe along a narrow trail leading through jungle until we reach the end of the pipe. The screen is partially blocked with debris and the water level is too low to keep the end of the pipe covered. Cleaning away the debris is simple but will only increase flow slightly. Return to find that power is temporarily out and we will have to wait to try the washing machine. I wonder what the coming months will be like at Safe Haven as the stream may dry up entirely before rains come again.