Today we visited the Tanji Village museum. It included some examples of local plants, trees, crafts and a replica of an early center village…actually not much different than some that we've seen here now. There were several hides, mounted butterflies & insects and snake skins—all with a thick layer of dust. Most telling was an older poster with silhouettes of mammals in Gambia showing the past (many), present (15 or so) and future (5). Looking at it & thinking about what we've seen, I said to our guide…looks like you're already in the future. He sadly agreed. He said the gov't says they can't cut trees & brush on lots of the land but made a contract with the Chinese to buy lumber. Habitat is disappearing quickly. As in other places in Gambia, everything at this museum was in poor condition or non-existence. Our guide told us what use to be there. His 3 year old son was following us around to we gave him a balloon. He happily played with it as we sat down to listen to two drummers play for us with gusto. Eventually, the little boy sat between the drummers and with our encouragement, he too beat on the drum. He'll be playing soon! It was a good way to end our visit there. Considering what we've seen & heard, we decided to not go to Abuko Nat'l Park.
We came back to our Airbnb, hung our clothesline and soon had our wash drying. We read & played cards and then Rog went out front to get a beer and soon was off looking for a pig…
Here's his story:
I went with Lamin to look for a pig to be prepared in the kitchen here. After asking around a nearby community, he found some locals who led us through their garden to a shed that housed about 15 pigs. Lamin is a Muslim and does not eat pork, but he is fine with buying pigs from the Christians who raise them. He bought one for 6000 dalasi (about $100 US). They feed the pigs leftover food from restaurants. The garden was full of wonja and it was harvest time. The whole family was involved with picking, trimming, or carrying the crop to their house. It will take days to complete the job.
German food in The Gambia for dinner!
We are encouraged to ask for any dish we like so Why not kniffles?
Mirama told us that the area of Germany where she came from calls them spaetzle and she cuts the dough into boiling water. Along with goulash (beef in a spicy sauce) and cooked red cabbage it felt like we might be in Germany, or home.😀
We have had delicious food here! Yesterday we had hamburgers & French fries and I drank a Coke. Felt a bit like I was back home! We spent much of the day planning our trip to Morocco—just a couple weeks away. I wrote to Mariame from Morocco who we met in the Philippines and ask if we could meet up & if she had any advice. She wrote back and for the next hour bombarded us with advice and excitement about meeting up! How fun. We got lucky and were able to contact: Shan, Claire, Reagan, Bekah, Addie, David and Noah! What a treat! Later today we're headed closer to Banjul.
I did want to record a conversation we had with our German host which was similar to what our local driver told us. Gambia is seeing an increase in kids attending Muslim's schools where basically only the Koran is taught. More girls are covering their heads. These schools are being built & kids sponsored by people in Saudi Arabia. Students are being denied a full education and being held captive by their religion—the outcome Saudi Arabia is seeking. If true, it's another sad scenario.
Friday, February 10, 2023
Wednesday, February 8, 2023
Gambia #11
We moved on toward Banjul so we could check out a few other suggested sites. We're in an Airbnb near Tujereng. It's run by a German lady who's a great cook. She seemed delighted to serve us potato salad and ham on a huge plate soon after we arrived. The many monkeys around are kept away by her dogs. It's quiet and peaceful.
Here's Roger's thoughts:
"Kachadulaa Garden 2/7/22
The German lady who owns this place used to be a cook on a ship for East Germans. She learned to cook very well because they told her they would throw her over the side if the food was bad. A joke, I hope!
She (Mariama) came here after living for some time in Sweden, but now considers Gambia her home. Her friend, Carrie, lives a short distance away and comes to help with the kitchen work and waits tables. There are often many Europeans here for evening meals as Mariama is a great cook and offers dishes that are not commonly available here. Chicken Schnitzel, Ribeye steak, potato salad, etc.
Visiting with them we found that Carrie is in Gambia because she was being pressed to be vaccinated in Sweden and chose to leave rather than comply. She seems very content with her life here.
Mariama walks with a limp and says that she came here because the weather here allows her to move without pain. She has a Gambian husband and has no plan to return to Europe.
Her Gambian husband, Lamin, once took the back way to Europe and nearly died. They told us of their concerns for the future of Gambia….
"The children just want to use the phones and take pictures and see how people elsewhere are living. That encourages them to leave Gambia by taking the back way to Europe. They have no respect for their parents and don't listen to them because their parents cannot even read or write or even use a phone. The kids think they can find all answers using their phones. No need for education. So many young people have left Gambia that there are not enough to grow food…much land is idle."
It was a depressing view that we can only hope is not accurate."
Our second day here, a driver picked us up and first we ask to stop at an ATM. First two didn't work. While pulling up to another nearby one, a police office same over & started demanding something from our driver. A heated five minute argument followed. Our driver told us to get out and try the ATM while he sorted out the problem at the nearby police station. With a bit of help from the ATM attendant, we successes in getting money. Not long after, we spotted our driver who said all was well—the police captain knew him so no problem. As he said, Gambia is a small country and it doesn't take long to find someone you know. Evidently the fact that he and Rog did not have their seatbelt on between our ATM stops, was the problem. Cracks me up as you can see people hanging out the back of vans, riding on top of truck loads, piled on donkey carts…and they stop you for no seatbelt!
So we headed to Makasutu—which the guide book called a Cultural Forest. It too—like so much of what we've seen is past it's prime—even though it only opened 30 years ago. Most of what we were suppose to see wasn't there anymore. Two steps forward. One & a half back. That seems to be the reality here. They blame it on Covid but by the looks of things…Covid only added a bit to the backward direction. We took a boat ride through the mangroves & saw a few birds. Watched a man climb to the top of a palm tree to tap it for juice. A buffet lunch of African food was served…mostly cold but Rog liked it. While we ate, musicians played & one danced. Always tips are expected: boat paddles, climber, musicians, guide & driver. Adds up but it's the way workers here get their pay. We're told only gov't jobs have wages. Only the baboons who surrounded us while we ate didn't ask for tips!
Here's Roger's thoughts:
"Kachadulaa Garden 2/7/22
The German lady who owns this place used to be a cook on a ship for East Germans. She learned to cook very well because they told her they would throw her over the side if the food was bad. A joke, I hope!
She (Mariama) came here after living for some time in Sweden, but now considers Gambia her home. Her friend, Carrie, lives a short distance away and comes to help with the kitchen work and waits tables. There are often many Europeans here for evening meals as Mariama is a great cook and offers dishes that are not commonly available here. Chicken Schnitzel, Ribeye steak, potato salad, etc.
Visiting with them we found that Carrie is in Gambia because she was being pressed to be vaccinated in Sweden and chose to leave rather than comply. She seems very content with her life here.
Mariama walks with a limp and says that she came here because the weather here allows her to move without pain. She has a Gambian husband and has no plan to return to Europe.
Her Gambian husband, Lamin, once took the back way to Europe and nearly died. They told us of their concerns for the future of Gambia….
"The children just want to use the phones and take pictures and see how people elsewhere are living. That encourages them to leave Gambia by taking the back way to Europe. They have no respect for their parents and don't listen to them because their parents cannot even read or write or even use a phone. The kids think they can find all answers using their phones. No need for education. So many young people have left Gambia that there are not enough to grow food…much land is idle."
It was a depressing view that we can only hope is not accurate."
Our second day here, a driver picked us up and first we ask to stop at an ATM. First two didn't work. While pulling up to another nearby one, a police office same over & started demanding something from our driver. A heated five minute argument followed. Our driver told us to get out and try the ATM while he sorted out the problem at the nearby police station. With a bit of help from the ATM attendant, we successes in getting money. Not long after, we spotted our driver who said all was well—the police captain knew him so no problem. As he said, Gambia is a small country and it doesn't take long to find someone you know. Evidently the fact that he and Rog did not have their seatbelt on between our ATM stops, was the problem. Cracks me up as you can see people hanging out the back of vans, riding on top of truck loads, piled on donkey carts…and they stop you for no seatbelt!
So we headed to Makasutu—which the guide book called a Cultural Forest. It too—like so much of what we've seen is past it's prime—even though it only opened 30 years ago. Most of what we were suppose to see wasn't there anymore. Two steps forward. One & a half back. That seems to be the reality here. They blame it on Covid but by the looks of things…Covid only added a bit to the backward direction. We took a boat ride through the mangroves & saw a few birds. Watched a man climb to the top of a palm tree to tap it for juice. A buffet lunch of African food was served…mostly cold but Rog liked it. While we ate, musicians played & one danced. Always tips are expected: boat paddles, climber, musicians, guide & driver. Adds up but it's the way workers here get their pay. We're told only gov't jobs have wages. Only the baboons who surrounded us while we ate didn't ask for tips!
Gambia #10
Paradise Beach…very appropriately named. Next to turquoise waves and a flat solid beach surface easy to walk on. Sand is fine, barely tan & mixed with tiny diamonds that sparkle. In the distance you have a view of Sanyang fishing village. Only a few other have found this gorgeous place. Breakfast is anytime; coffee, eggs & bread. We order a meal around 2 which is delicious fresh fish. We read and listen to pod cast while lying on the beach under palm trees. Occasionally, local girls will come to sell fruit which we enjoy later with our pb sandwiches. The girls often plop down besides us and chat…giving them a rest & shade and us a chance to hear about their lives and dreams. They play with my hair…so opposite of theirs. Young men on the beach play soccer, exercise and run. When I asked why they exercise, they tell me they want to build strong bodies which will helps their brains, give them longer lives and maybe a chance to win $$ at soccer. I listen to their many hopes and dreams…and worry for them. On the weekend, several large groups lugged grills, food, drinks, radios, speakers, drums and babies to the beach ready to party! No one swims but many play in the waves and take selfies. Their drumming and music sills the air until late. Surprisingly there seems to be no ocean spray & few mosquitoes. Five days here was a bit of Paradise!
Gambia #9
From Roger's pen:
We have been thinking about the economy here. Many people survive by selling vegetables or small items to their neighbors. They would love having the opportunity to get a good job. Improving the Gambian economy might be disastrous for the people and their culture.
If the country were to be modernized, it would mean better transportation, health care, education, more employment, industry, infrastructure, etc.
It would also bring addtional pollution and other problems that come with modernization. Likely their culture would suffer, tribal values may lose importance, and languages would change or disappear.
As the question of modernization looms, many Gambians have seen the possibility of a better life. They have decided to take "the back way to Europe" in search of opportunity, because they don't find it here.
They sail North along the coast in a desperate attempt for a better life, but often the boat does not reach its destination and is lost.
If they miraculously do reach Europe, the problems of proper identification, visa, etc. may still derail their plans.
Nearly everyone here knows several who have taken "the back way"…never to be heard from again.
We have been thinking about the economy here. Many people survive by selling vegetables or small items to their neighbors. They would love having the opportunity to get a good job. Improving the Gambian economy might be disastrous for the people and their culture.
If the country were to be modernized, it would mean better transportation, health care, education, more employment, industry, infrastructure, etc.
It would also bring addtional pollution and other problems that come with modernization. Likely their culture would suffer, tribal values may lose importance, and languages would change or disappear.
As the question of modernization looms, many Gambians have seen the possibility of a better life. They have decided to take "the back way to Europe" in search of opportunity, because they don't find it here.
They sail North along the coast in a desperate attempt for a better life, but often the boat does not reach its destination and is lost.
If they miraculously do reach Europe, the problems of proper identification, visa, etc. may still derail their plans.
Nearly everyone here knows several who have taken "the back way"…never to be heard from again.
Saturday, February 4, 2023
Gambia #8
Up early and headed toward Georgetown. Buba and Miriana are quite a pair teasing each other and laughing all the time. Buba said, "If you're looking for trouble, you will have it with a Gambian woman." Miriana says Buba is a naughty boy…but a good dancer. They told us some of their tribe traditions. Buba is Fula. His 5 yr old son recently got circumcised and there was a huge celebration.. He then took him to a month-long school with 10 other newly circumcised boys. They will lay quietly with loose clothing for days listening to rules about proper behavior…especially respecting others. They won't bath while there. He says his son cries a lot but he calls him every day and looks forward to him coming home with good manners. Miriana tells us how important family is to her Mandinka tribe (& other tribes). They live together in compounds with wives joining their husband's. It's illegal to marry before 18. A man can marry up to 4 wives & he is careful not to favor one. He stays with a different one each week and that week she cooks lunch for the entire compound. Works for them!
About 11, we pulled off the main road & into a Fula family compound with. Mud houses/thatched roof, well, outdoor fire cooking area and no electricity. A pile of kids rushed out to meet us and soon surrounded us. We were escorted into a home which was filled with beds made of ceiba seed fiber. There was a woman pounding couscous to loosen the husk and be made into porridge for breakfast, a man who'd purchased a large bag of sugar & was making small bags for resale. Buying one day supply of most everything is all most can afford. Another made with a baby on her lap was shelling peanuts. She gave us a big bag & we slipped her some $$. Being Fula, she had decorative marks burned on her face & lots of earrings. Miriana brought out a bag of suckers & cookies and was mobbed as she passed them out. When that excitement died down, I blew up a ballon and tossed it up. The wind carried it & the kids chased it hitting it back up when it came down. Hearing that they would get no education made me a bit sad but how would it change their culture if they did? Is it right to think that would be best for them? Miriana says education is better than gold or silver.
Our next stop was Wassu round stone circles. Basically a grave for past chiefs. We drove on passing many broken down vehicles on the side of the road, meeting big trucks from Senegal and over loaded taxi vans. Amazing how high they stacked the loads on top. One even had two goats on it! When we arrived at River Gambia Nat'l Park, we braved the rickety dock to climb into a boat and head to Bamboo Island where chimpanzees are being relocated. We saw a few of those big boys up in the trees. We made a quick turn-around when we spotted 6 hippos. Bigger boys! We gave them plenty of space to put on a show for us. Buba teased Miriana saying we say 7. She got him back later saying he had chicken muscles. We continued east turning off just before Georgetown. The road was barely a driveway with massive holes & overgrown brush. Where were we going?? Monkeys greeted us as mud huts came into view. Our hotel. Even more scarce. No electricity. No water. We watched the monkey's antics for a bit and visited with a couple from Holland. They had spent the day visiting the family the man had lived with 30 years ago through Peace Corp. He was a U of M grad! They started cooking supper but since I'd been fighting a cold, I just ate a piece of bread with my peanut butter & crashed. For breakfast, they had fresh donut holes which were delicious & omelets. We fed the monkeys some peanuts & slowly made our way back to the main road. The ferry to Georgetown was close by so that's where we went. Georgetown is an island city. So many others with bags of stuff bought or ready to sell at the market. Horses, donkeys, goats & sheep mingled with women dressed so colorfully & elegantly many with babies tied around their waist. When the ferry arrived, Buba drove on & then all the passengers loaded. A short ride & we were there…right next to the building where slaves were held & sold. A guide led us down into a dungeon & told the story. Here they were for 14 days, chained if aggressive, a hole dug to low tide sea level used as water source. During high tide the water & all their waste was up to their chest. Food was shoveled down holes at the top. More than half died & were fed to the crocodiles. Those who survived were weighed & that determined price. Women's tits were squeezed for firmness. Teeth were examined. The purchased slaves were loaded on boats where another half would die. Slaves from Africa were more valuable because of their strength. Slaves from India were much weaker. Of course we knew this story….but sitting in the dungeon with the great grandson of someone who'd probably been there was a chilling experience. Letter we would talk to Buba & Miriana about it. They said what is past is past. Africans were to blame as well. They captured people from other tribes to sell for tea, metal, jewelry and mirrors. Mirrors to admire themselves in. How sad. They said in a way, there are still slaves today as nephews are often made to work for uncles without pay.
A little ways down the road, we came to the first Methodist church in sub- Sahara Africa planted in 1824. Nothing impressive. Actually the sign was rusty, bent over and barely readable. But it gave me a warm feeling the Methodist love reached this island where such deployable acts took place. It also made me sad the my own Methodist church has chosen to split from that founding church. A school was built in 1927 for the sons of chiefs and later others. The boss of our tour is currently building a huge hotel/conference center here in Georgetown so we stopped to see it. Such a huge dream1. Big restaurants on the roof top, elegant stairway & a pool. He plans to encourage boat trips from Banjul to here on mini cruise ships. You look around at all the crumbling, undeveloped surroundings and wonder, how is this dream going to be a reality???
We had a long ways to go so we made few stops but talked lots…about even politics and religion as freely as anything else. Gambia just ousted a president who'd ruled for over so yrs who was actually doing lots of good things like paved road, bridges, more women rights, better litter control (which they desperately need)—but at the expense of freedom. Many people just disappeared. No one felt they could disagree with anything. Senegal armed forces were invited to protect the president's home region where green flags flew everywhere in his support. He made it known he wanted to be named king & have his family continue reigning. He didn't accept the election results & was forced to flee the country. The new president is not getting as much done but the people are much happier. Gambia is mostly a Muslim country & every town has a mosque & you can her them calling people to pray 5 times a day. Many kids go to Muslim schools where they mostly just learn the Koran. Muslims don't drink alcohol so that eliminates lots of problems. Miriana's take on Christians vs Muslims: One God. Same. Same.
The country that surrounds them, Senegal is called a sister country and they have the same 7 or so tribes. Borders between them is open as most have family on both sides. Senegal is more developed.
We were getting close to where we'd booked an Airbnb so Miriana tried the contact number we were given. After several calls & a bit of arguing, she finally got it the right person with the right directions. Again we took what was barely a driveway quite a distance in search of our Airbnb. Actually found it…on a gorgeous beach. The caretaker hadn't got the message we were coming until a bit before we arrived and had no room vacant. He quickly re-did their store room that was almost finished.A bed, couch, table & chairs soon appeared and walla—a room for us for the next 5 days. toilet, Wi-Fi, water are usually working so we're happy. We were served almost cold cokes & since we had some left over bread, we ate pb sandwich & welcomed a most softer bed!!
About 11, we pulled off the main road & into a Fula family compound with. Mud houses/thatched roof, well, outdoor fire cooking area and no electricity. A pile of kids rushed out to meet us and soon surrounded us. We were escorted into a home which was filled with beds made of ceiba seed fiber. There was a woman pounding couscous to loosen the husk and be made into porridge for breakfast, a man who'd purchased a large bag of sugar & was making small bags for resale. Buying one day supply of most everything is all most can afford. Another made with a baby on her lap was shelling peanuts. She gave us a big bag & we slipped her some $$. Being Fula, she had decorative marks burned on her face & lots of earrings. Miriana brought out a bag of suckers & cookies and was mobbed as she passed them out. When that excitement died down, I blew up a ballon and tossed it up. The wind carried it & the kids chased it hitting it back up when it came down. Hearing that they would get no education made me a bit sad but how would it change their culture if they did? Is it right to think that would be best for them? Miriana says education is better than gold or silver.
Our next stop was Wassu round stone circles. Basically a grave for past chiefs. We drove on passing many broken down vehicles on the side of the road, meeting big trucks from Senegal and over loaded taxi vans. Amazing how high they stacked the loads on top. One even had two goats on it! When we arrived at River Gambia Nat'l Park, we braved the rickety dock to climb into a boat and head to Bamboo Island where chimpanzees are being relocated. We saw a few of those big boys up in the trees. We made a quick turn-around when we spotted 6 hippos. Bigger boys! We gave them plenty of space to put on a show for us. Buba teased Miriana saying we say 7. She got him back later saying he had chicken muscles. We continued east turning off just before Georgetown. The road was barely a driveway with massive holes & overgrown brush. Where were we going?? Monkeys greeted us as mud huts came into view. Our hotel. Even more scarce. No electricity. No water. We watched the monkey's antics for a bit and visited with a couple from Holland. They had spent the day visiting the family the man had lived with 30 years ago through Peace Corp. He was a U of M grad! They started cooking supper but since I'd been fighting a cold, I just ate a piece of bread with my peanut butter & crashed. For breakfast, they had fresh donut holes which were delicious & omelets. We fed the monkeys some peanuts & slowly made our way back to the main road. The ferry to Georgetown was close by so that's where we went. Georgetown is an island city. So many others with bags of stuff bought or ready to sell at the market. Horses, donkeys, goats & sheep mingled with women dressed so colorfully & elegantly many with babies tied around their waist. When the ferry arrived, Buba drove on & then all the passengers loaded. A short ride & we were there…right next to the building where slaves were held & sold. A guide led us down into a dungeon & told the story. Here they were for 14 days, chained if aggressive, a hole dug to low tide sea level used as water source. During high tide the water & all their waste was up to their chest. Food was shoveled down holes at the top. More than half died & were fed to the crocodiles. Those who survived were weighed & that determined price. Women's tits were squeezed for firmness. Teeth were examined. The purchased slaves were loaded on boats where another half would die. Slaves from Africa were more valuable because of their strength. Slaves from India were much weaker. Of course we knew this story….but sitting in the dungeon with the great grandson of someone who'd probably been there was a chilling experience. Letter we would talk to Buba & Miriana about it. They said what is past is past. Africans were to blame as well. They captured people from other tribes to sell for tea, metal, jewelry and mirrors. Mirrors to admire themselves in. How sad. They said in a way, there are still slaves today as nephews are often made to work for uncles without pay.
A little ways down the road, we came to the first Methodist church in sub- Sahara Africa planted in 1824. Nothing impressive. Actually the sign was rusty, bent over and barely readable. But it gave me a warm feeling the Methodist love reached this island where such deployable acts took place. It also made me sad the my own Methodist church has chosen to split from that founding church. A school was built in 1927 for the sons of chiefs and later others. The boss of our tour is currently building a huge hotel/conference center here in Georgetown so we stopped to see it. Such a huge dream1. Big restaurants on the roof top, elegant stairway & a pool. He plans to encourage boat trips from Banjul to here on mini cruise ships. You look around at all the crumbling, undeveloped surroundings and wonder, how is this dream going to be a reality???
We had a long ways to go so we made few stops but talked lots…about even politics and religion as freely as anything else. Gambia just ousted a president who'd ruled for over so yrs who was actually doing lots of good things like paved road, bridges, more women rights, better litter control (which they desperately need)—but at the expense of freedom. Many people just disappeared. No one felt they could disagree with anything. Senegal armed forces were invited to protect the president's home region where green flags flew everywhere in his support. He made it known he wanted to be named king & have his family continue reigning. He didn't accept the election results & was forced to flee the country. The new president is not getting as much done but the people are much happier. Gambia is mostly a Muslim country & every town has a mosque & you can her them calling people to pray 5 times a day. Many kids go to Muslim schools where they mostly just learn the Koran. Muslims don't drink alcohol so that eliminates lots of problems. Miriana's take on Christians vs Muslims: One God. Same. Same.
The country that surrounds them, Senegal is called a sister country and they have the same 7 or so tribes. Borders between them is open as most have family on both sides. Senegal is more developed.
We were getting close to where we'd booked an Airbnb so Miriana tried the contact number we were given. After several calls & a bit of arguing, she finally got it the right person with the right directions. Again we took what was barely a driveway quite a distance in search of our Airbnb. Actually found it…on a gorgeous beach. The caretaker hadn't got the message we were coming until a bit before we arrived and had no room vacant. He quickly re-did their store room that was almost finished.A bed, couch, table & chairs soon appeared and walla—a room for us for the next 5 days. toilet, Wi-Fi, water are usually working so we're happy. We were served almost cold cokes & since we had some left over bread, we ate pb sandwich & welcomed a most softer bed!!
Thursday, February 2, 2023
Gambia #7
Our truly cultural adventure began on Monday at 7 am. Buba, our driver picked us up and soon we picked up Miriana who was our guide. She was chocked full of information which she freely & rapidly shared with us as we drove along the main E-W road which was only paved 8 yrs ago. It was very smooth sailing except for slowing down for speed bumps, Irish crossings (valley built in road), town barricades (tires & anything resembling a gate), police stops, military stops with weapons showing, donkey carts and cattle, goats & people crossing the road. We drove through many congested market areas later stopping at Farafenni Market just to immerse ourselves into that experience. We passed lots of mango, orange & baobab trees and though they had huge bundles of sticks and piles of bags stuffed with charcoal made from wood, Mariana was quick to note that Gambia know the value of trees and there were many rules about cutting them. Most irons have an opening to put hot charcoal in. The rice and peanut fields are dormant now and used for grazing cattle and goats. In the rainy season they will flourish. Peanuts & fish are the main export crops. We arrived at Tendaba camp around 11, settled into our pretty sparse rooms & ate some breakfast left in the buffet. Then we climbed into the back of a 3 wheeler with a box behind for seats. A guide from Tendaba joined us and we got jostled about for almost an hour before arriving to a water hole in Kiang West Nat'l Park. We soon heard bamboos parking & then saw a large family in the distance. We headed to another water hole where we saw a herd of bush hogs. As we walked around, we scared up an antelope. Another bumpy ride back and I could hardly walk to my bed. Not sure I'd recommend that safari to anyone. Lunch was fried chicken/ff for me & yassa for Rog. Around 5, the Tendaba tide met us and we climbed way down a precariously old ladder into a boat & crossed the wide Gambia River. When we came to an opening in the mangroves, we turned into what was bird paradise! Thousands of them! Kingfishers, cormorants, spoonbill, storks, purple & great white heron, egrets, ibis, terns and so many I can't name but admired their brilliant colors. The funniest was the snake fish that dis look just like snake when it was swimming! On the shoreline, we saw crabs, a crocodile & a mongoose! I didn't want it to end but we headed back just as the sun set. Perfect. A dinner buffet was set up as there's a health conference being held here at the lodge with about 50 people. We slept on a hard bed under a mosquito net. The real Gambia experience.
Sunday, January 29, 2023
Gambia #6
On Friday, Rog biked to the bike shop to pay for the parts he'd put on the Gunjur Project bikes and then headed out to explore. Here's his writing:
" As I was a riding through the local neighborhood, I came across several boys walking toward me. The boys are sent out to the bush to cut firewood so they carry sharp machetes. I stopped and one of the boys (in the red gillie suit) came right up to me slapping the blades together many times making very sharp and threatening sounds. 🙈I laughed and asked him if it would be OK if I snapped his photo. I was a bit relieved when he agreed. 😀 I have now learned that when a Mandinka child is circumcised they send out someone to chase away evil spirits. He is called a kankaran.
As I continued through the neighborhood, I came upon a lush garden filled with onions, tomatoes, peppers, and more. The kids were very happy to pose for a photo."
I went off to school. The head master ask me to write in the visitor's book which asked for name, country, comments and suggestions. At the end of morning assembly, he awarded me with certificate and read aloud what I had written. I got what they always do-"a big clap, and another and then a bigger one." I spent time in each classroom soaking up their smiles and watching them excitingly explore books! As the kids left, I gave them each a candy & said goodbye. I then talked individually to each teacher leaving them with a suggestions and asked them to share with the others and then gave them a handful of candy. It would be wonderful to see if they use the suggestions but I suspect, rote learning will remain the main teaching method. Several kids joined me on my walk back to Gunjur Project. One 10-12 year old asked me to teach him. So we sat down on a shaded ridge & I typed words on my phone for him to read and then put them into a sentence. We also did a few math problems. He was a smart boy eager to learn! By then, several kids had gathered so I played "Doggie, Doggie where's your shoe?" (Using his shoe—why not?). They loved it. I also showed them how to play thumb war. Both of these games I had taught kids/teachers at school. I love teaching these simple games in hopes it'll bring them some fun. Back at GP, the pool was calling. Then I finished up organizing & straightening the GP library. We said goodbye to Mark & Carol and now it's just us. The staff is working hard preparing for a big group coming in a few days. Sat & Sun were down days. We researched plans for the next two weeks and met with Jenny who set up a 3 day trip to the interior of Gambia with a driver she approved of. We did a bunch of calculating to figure out how many dalasi we needed to pay our bill here plus $50 tip, the next 3 day trip, set up a bike fund of $75 for Mary Jo gave me $$ before we left and then have some dalasi to buy food/taxi rides etc when we get to our airbnb after our trip. Total was 77,000 dalasi ! We paid Jenny via PayPal and she then handed us 4 huge wads of dalasi. Felt like we'd robbed a bank!! Rog replaced a tube on a GP bike giving the old tube to Brendan saying he knew he'd find a use for it!
We then did some repacking so we could be down to just 2 suitcases having given away books, teacher supplies, bike pump & patches. Both days were hot so we took several dips in the pool. Rog went out for more bike rides while I caught up on my writing. Which I now am! Tonight we will order sweet & sour chicken again because it's the best we've ever tasted and of course, they'll serve us some delicious cake with ice cream! We have loved this place and all it does for this community and to the volunteers they encourage to come. We found a gem in Gambia!
" As I was a riding through the local neighborhood, I came across several boys walking toward me. The boys are sent out to the bush to cut firewood so they carry sharp machetes. I stopped and one of the boys (in the red gillie suit) came right up to me slapping the blades together many times making very sharp and threatening sounds. 🙈I laughed and asked him if it would be OK if I snapped his photo. I was a bit relieved when he agreed. 😀 I have now learned that when a Mandinka child is circumcised they send out someone to chase away evil spirits. He is called a kankaran.
As I continued through the neighborhood, I came upon a lush garden filled with onions, tomatoes, peppers, and more. The kids were very happy to pose for a photo."
I went off to school. The head master ask me to write in the visitor's book which asked for name, country, comments and suggestions. At the end of morning assembly, he awarded me with certificate and read aloud what I had written. I got what they always do-"a big clap, and another and then a bigger one." I spent time in each classroom soaking up their smiles and watching them excitingly explore books! As the kids left, I gave them each a candy & said goodbye. I then talked individually to each teacher leaving them with a suggestions and asked them to share with the others and then gave them a handful of candy. It would be wonderful to see if they use the suggestions but I suspect, rote learning will remain the main teaching method. Several kids joined me on my walk back to Gunjur Project. One 10-12 year old asked me to teach him. So we sat down on a shaded ridge & I typed words on my phone for him to read and then put them into a sentence. We also did a few math problems. He was a smart boy eager to learn! By then, several kids had gathered so I played "Doggie, Doggie where's your shoe?" (Using his shoe—why not?). They loved it. I also showed them how to play thumb war. Both of these games I had taught kids/teachers at school. I love teaching these simple games in hopes it'll bring them some fun. Back at GP, the pool was calling. Then I finished up organizing & straightening the GP library. We said goodbye to Mark & Carol and now it's just us. The staff is working hard preparing for a big group coming in a few days. Sat & Sun were down days. We researched plans for the next two weeks and met with Jenny who set up a 3 day trip to the interior of Gambia with a driver she approved of. We did a bunch of calculating to figure out how many dalasi we needed to pay our bill here plus $50 tip, the next 3 day trip, set up a bike fund of $75 for Mary Jo gave me $$ before we left and then have some dalasi to buy food/taxi rides etc when we get to our airbnb after our trip. Total was 77,000 dalasi ! We paid Jenny via PayPal and she then handed us 4 huge wads of dalasi. Felt like we'd robbed a bank!! Rog replaced a tube on a GP bike giving the old tube to Brendan saying he knew he'd find a use for it!
We then did some repacking so we could be down to just 2 suitcases having given away books, teacher supplies, bike pump & patches. Both days were hot so we took several dips in the pool. Rog went out for more bike rides while I caught up on my writing. Which I now am! Tonight we will order sweet & sour chicken again because it's the best we've ever tasted and of course, they'll serve us some delicious cake with ice cream! We have loved this place and all it does for this community and to the volunteers they encourage to come. We found a gem in Gambia!
Thursday, January 26, 2023
Re: Gambia #5
Love it! What a gift you have given them. The gift to read. Glad you had such a great day
On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 1:41 PM Jane Boyce <janeboyce@live.com> wrote:
My birthday! Rog headed to the bike shop & I went to school where I spent the day in Level 1. At break, the head master asked if I had any suggestions. After praising him for much of what they are doing, I noted there was a lot of down time especially while the teacher is taking attendance & collecting lunch money. I also had noticed that the kids did not ever have the opportunity to look at books so why not then! I told him he'd have to firmly set ground rules & tell the kids books were a gift that should get the utmost care. I suggested the books to be sitting on their desk when they came in. He said he thought that was brilliant and he loved having visitors improve his school. I left hoping for the best. At dinner, the staff presented me with a birthday cake with two speakers. Delicious chocolate cake & ice cream was served to us and all the staff! Then a band came & played for us. It was only Carol & Mark and us but they put on a great show playing the kora, two sets of drums and had a singer. Two locals came over and started dancing & encouraged us to join them. We tried to mimic their moves. Rog said he felt like Steve Martin in the Jerk! The last song was a happy birthday to me. I spent the next hour responding to birthday messages and went to bed feeling very blessed.
Up and out the next morning Rog took another Gunjur Project bike to work on. He was walking it cause the gears were messed up. A young man stopped & helped him and then ask for payment. Fortunately he had his left over breakfast of French toast & a pb&j sandwich which the young man gladly took. As it turned out, the wife of one of the mechanics brought everyone lunch so Rog joined them happily. His words: They gave me part of a baguette and we all gathered around the dish which was put on the cement floor of the bike shop porch( our work area). Using just the bread everyone soaked up the spicy liquid and pulled out parts of the fish for their lunch. I shared a small amount. Pretty 🌶!
And me…I got the best ever belated birthday gift!! When I got to school, there were books on each kids desk! At the end of the morning assembly, the head master asked me to talk to the kids about the books. I told the kids that there was a gift on their desk & then explained the rules which the head master translated with much enthusiasm & emphasized the care needed. Then every kids went to their desk and quietly enjoyed books!! I went from room to room showing proper orientation, pointing out things in pictures and smiling from ear to ear. I later talked to the teacher who liked it also. One asked me to read to a small group and another to the class. I cleaned up each classroom library taking the books in poor shape to the office. Who knows how long these books had just sat there. So finally, books were a part of their days!!
Wednesday we were suppose to go on an outing but the Land Rover wouldn't start so Rog went off to the bike shop. I offered to help sort & straighten the Gunjur Project library. They have lots of books and it needed some TLC. We ate dinner with Carol & Mark again…which we have the last several nights as we are the only guest right now. They are travelers too so we have a lot to talk about. All of us are especially enjoying the sweet & sour chicken meal so it seems we order that most often. We all have devoured their desserts. Tonight it was coconut cake & ice cream. Sweet way to end the day!
Gambia #5
My birthday! Rog headed to the bike shop & I went to school where I spent the day in Level 1. At break, the head master asked if I had any suggestions. After praising him for much of what they are doing, I noted there was a lot of down time especially while the teacher is taking attendance & collecting lunch money. I also had noticed that the kids did not ever have the opportunity to look at books so why not then! I told him he'd have to firmly set ground rules & tell the kids books were a gift that should get the utmost care. I suggested the books to be sitting on their desk when they came in. He said he thought that was brilliant and he loved having visitors improve his school. I left hoping for the best. At dinner, the staff presented me with a birthday cake with two speakers. Delicious chocolate cake & ice cream was served to us and all the staff! Then a band came & played for us. It was only Carol & Mark and us but they put on a great show playing the kora, two sets of drums and had a singer. Two locals came over and started dancing & encouraged us to join them. We tried to mimic their moves. Rog said he felt like Steve Martin in the Jerk! The last song was a happy birthday to me. I spent the next hour responding to birthday messages and went to bed feeling very blessed.
Up and out the next morning Rog took another Gunjur Project bike to work on. He was walking it cause the gears were messed up. A young man stopped & helped him and then ask for payment. Fortunately he had his left over breakfast of French toast & a pb&j sandwich which the young man gladly took. As it turned out, the wife of one of the mechanics brought everyone lunch so Rog joined them happily. His words: They gave me part of a baguette and we all gathered around the dish which was put on the cement floor of the bike shop porch( our work area). Using just the bread everyone soaked up the spicy liquid and pulled out parts of the fish for their lunch. I shared a small amount. Pretty 🌶!
And me…I got the best ever belated birthday gift!! When I got to school, there were books on each kids desk! At the end of the morning assembly, the head master asked me to talk to the kids about the books. I told the kids that there was a gift on their desk & then explained the rules which the head master translated with much enthusiasm & emphasized the care needed. Then every kids went to their desk and quietly enjoyed books!! I went from room to room showing proper orientation, pointing out things in pictures and smiling from ear to ear. I later talked to the teacher who liked it also. One asked me to read to a small group and another to the class. I cleaned up each classroom library taking the books in poor shape to the office. Who knows how long these books had just sat there. So finally, books were a part of their days!!
Wednesday we were suppose to go on an outing but the Land Rover wouldn't start so Rog went off to the bike shop. I offered to help sort & straighten the Gunjur Project library. They have lots of books and it needed some TLC. We ate dinner with Carol & Mark again…which we have the last several nights as we are the only guest right now. They are travelers too so we have a lot to talk about. All of us are especially enjoying the sweet & sour chicken meal so it seems we order that most often. We all have devoured their desserts. Tonight it was coconut cake & ice cream. Sweet way to end the day!
My birthday! Rog headed to the bike shop & I went to school where I spent the day in Level 1. At break, the head master asked if I had any suggestions. After praising him for much of what they are doing, I noted there was a lot of down time especially while the teacher is taking attendance & collecting lunch money. I also had noticed that the kids did not ever have the opportunity to look at books so why not then! I told him he'd have to firmly set ground rules & tell the kids books were a gift that should get the utmost care. I suggested the books to be sitting on their desk when they came in. He said he thought that was brilliant and he loved having visitors improve his school. I left hoping for the best. At dinner, the staff presented me with a birthday cake with two speakers. Delicious chocolate cake & ice cream was served to us and all the staff! Then a band came & played for us. It was only Carol & Mark and us but they put on a great show playing the kora, two sets of drums and had a singer. Two locals came over and started dancing & encouraged us to join them. We tried to mimic their moves. Rog said he felt like Steve Martin in the Jerk! The last song was a happy birthday to me. I spent the next hour responding to birthday messages and went to bed feeling very blessed.
Up and out the next morning Rog took another Gunjur Project bike to work on. He was walking it cause the gears were messed up. A young man stopped & helped him and then ask for payment. Fortunately he had his left over breakfast of French toast & a pb&j sandwich which the young man gladly took. As it turned out, the wife of one of the mechanics brought everyone lunch so Rog joined them happily. His words: They gave me part of a baguette and we all gathered around the dish which was put on the cement floor of the bike shop porch( our work area). Using just the bread everyone soaked up the spicy liquid and pulled out parts of the fish for their lunch. I shared a small amount. Pretty 🌶!
And me…I got the best ever belated birthday gift!! When I got to school, there were books on each kids desk! At the end of the morning assembly, the head master asked me to talk to the kids about the books. I told the kids that there was a gift on their desk & then explained the rules which the head master translated with much enthusiasm & emphasized the care needed. Then every kids went to their desk and quietly enjoyed books!! I went from room to room showing proper orientation, pointing out things in pictures and smiling from ear to ear. I later talked to the teacher who liked it also. One asked me to read to a small group and another to the class. I cleaned up each classroom library taking the books in poor shape to the office. Who knows how long these books had just sat there. So finally, books were a part of their days!!
Wednesday we were suppose to go on an outing but the Land Rover wouldn't start so Rog went off to the bike shop. I offered to help sort & straighten the Gunjur Project library. They have lots of books and it needed some TLC. We ate dinner with Carol & Mark again…which we have the last several nights as we are the only guest right now. They are travelers too so we have a lot to talk about. All of us are especially enjoying the sweet & sour chicken meal so it seems we order that most often. We all have devoured their desserts. Tonight it was coconut cake & ice cream. Sweet way to end the day!
Tuesday, January 24, 2023
Gambia #4
It's the weekend! We climbed into the back of the Land Rover and headed out to visit Ibrahim at his home. He was happy to introduce us to his family, take a family photo, give us some fresh oranges and show us his bike shop he has at his home. Mostly a tool box & a pile of old bikes. Then we went to Kartong—a small busy village on the banks of a tributary to The Gambia River. It was nice to see where most people live, work & shop around here. We took a short boat ride passing Pelican Island (only 5 there) and checked out the oysters growing on the mangrove roots. We watched women digging for cackles which reminded Rog of a song he sang in grade school: "Singing Cackles & mussels, Alive, Alive Oh". He'd always wondered what cackles were. Roads here are mostly sand with major pot holes so when you reach a paved one…it's wonderful. We traveled in the back of the Land Rover with Omar telling us about what we're passing & shouting to most people we pass with both laughing every time. He says he doesn't need to know them to joke with them. We know two words in Mandinka: twobob (means white person derived from two bits-UK $) and minty (candy). We hear both often! Spent the rest of the relaxing and getting acquainted with Mark & Carol from Scotland. They'd spend they day doing workshops for local groups: Mark does photography & Carol taught how to make a hand bag with a pattern on a sewing machine to a group of young girls. Also Gunjur Project hired a soccer team to make cement blocks. They mixed up the cement by hand, poured it into a mold, then quickly pulled the mold off. All amazingly fast! They made 994 blocks in a few hours earning about $85 dollars which they'll use for soccer equipment. It seems Gunjur Project is helping out everywhere in this community!
Sunday we met up with Brandon (one of the owners) and a group of local kids he's gotten interested in birding. We walked with them to a local forest. We spotted lots of birds, plants with medicinal use, and a crocodile. We had a quick lunch then headed to Lamin Lodge….slowly. After jostling about for about an hour, we arrived. It is considered as one of the top sites to see. We were a bit unimpressed is an understatement. The boat ride was way more than we imagined…about $35 each. We got into a small boat along with Carol & Mark & Adama. We paddled about 20 minuted and then stepped out into the mucky ground. It was low tie. We slowly made our way until we came to a steam through the mangrove. We walked slowly, slipping often spotting mud skippers (frog head, fish body), oysters and crabs. We finally arrived at the main attraction: a huge Baobab tree which we crawled inside of. Of course we had to tip them too. Monday morning, Jenny (owner) had heard how much we paid and had Omar call them and renegotiate the price. It was the first time Adama had been there and they had way over charged us. Jenny gave us back half the money we'd spent saying she'd make sure that didn't happen again! We learned an important lesson that may help us when we're out and about on our own.
It's the weekend! We climbed into the back of the Land Rover and headed out to visit Ibrahim at his home. He was happy to introduce us to his family, take a family photo, give us some fresh oranges and show us his bike shop he has at his home. Mostly a tool box & a pile of old bikes. Then we went to Kartong—a small busy village on the banks of a tributary to The Gambia River. It was nice to see where most people live, work & shop around here. We took a short boat ride passing Pelican Island (only 5 there) and checked out the oysters growing on the mangrove roots. We watched women digging for cackles which reminded Rog of a song he sang in grade school: "Singing Cackles & mussels, Alive, Alive Oh". He'd always wondered what cackles were. Roads here are mostly sand with major pot holes so when you reach a paved one…it's wonderful. We traveled in the back of the Land Rover with Omar telling us about what we're passing & shouting to most people we pass with both laughing every time. He says he doesn't need to know them to joke with them. We know two words in Mandinka: twobob (means white person derived from two bits-UK $) and minty (candy). We hear both often! Spent the rest of the relaxing and getting acquainted with Mark & Carol from Scotland. They'd spend they day doing workshops for local groups: Mark does photography & Carol taught how to make a hand bag with a pattern on a sewing machine to a group of young girls. Also Gunjur Project hired a soccer team to make cement blocks. They mixed up the cement by hand, poured it into a mold, then quickly pulled the mold off. All amazingly fast! They made 994 blocks in a few hours earning about $85 dollars which they'll use for soccer equipment. It seems Gunjur Project is helping out everywhere in this community!
Sunday we met up with Brandon (one of the owners) and a group of local kids he's gotten interested in birding. We walked with them to a local forest. We spotted lots of birds, plants with medicinal use, and a crocodile. We had a quick lunch then headed to Lamin Lodge….slowly. After jostling about for about an hour, we arrived. It is considered as one of the top sites to see. We were a bit unimpressed is an understatement. The boat ride was way more than we imagined…about $35 each. We got into a small boat along with Carol & Mark & Adama. We paddled about 20 minuted and then stepped out into the mucky ground. It was low tie. We slowly made our way until we came to a steam through the mangrove. We walked slowly, slipping often spotting mud skippers (frog head, fish body), oysters and crabs. We finally arrived at the main attraction: a huge Baobab tree which we crawled inside of. Of course we had to tip them too. Monday morning, Jenny (owner) had heard how much we paid and had Omar call them and renegotiate the price. It was the first time Adama had been there and they had way over charged us. Jenny gave us back half the money we'd spent saying she'd make sure that didn't happen again! We learned an important lesson that may help us when we're out and about on our own.
Gambia #3
The next two days were very much like the day before with Rog at the bike shop and me at the school. Rog is impressed with Ibrahim who he says performs magic on bikes. He is learning lots from him and has been invited to his home. It's a busy place with people stopping by constantly and negotiating for bikes & parts. Teacher's are asking for suggestions but I hesitate to say too much…not that I don't have some! There's too much dead time and shouting lessons. Not enough books and no reading aloud. Only half the teachers are qualified but others are still going to school. Teacher's training here consist of going to classes during their breaks—about 3 months a year—for 2 years. Gunjur project sponsors some of their education. When I arrive in the morning, fun music is blaring as the kids play. At 8:30 the bell rings & kids line up for morning assembly…which last about 30-45 minutes. They sing lots of songs like If you're happy & you know it, Days of the Week & Months, and even You are my Sunshine! They also recite the date, review a color/shape/body part etc lesson, tell name of their town, country & president and finally sing the national anthem:
"For The Gambia, our homeland,
We strive and work and pray,
That all may live in unity,
Freedom and peace each day.
Let justice guide our actions
Towards the common good,
And join our diverse peoples
To prove man's brotherhood.
We pledge our firm allegiance,
Our promise we renew;
Keep us, great God of nations,
To The Gambia ever true."
We strive and work and pray,
That all may live in unity,
Freedom and peace each day.
Let justice guide our actions
Towards the common good,
And join our diverse peoples
To prove man's brotherhood.
We pledge our firm allegiance,
Our promise we renew;
Keep us, great God of nations,
To The Gambia ever true."
Wish those words become reality here…and everywhere.
They have a lesson plan prepared for the teachers from area complete with objectives and lots of interactive activities. Students & teachers shout and repeat most everything they say. Overall they seem very happy.
I've been walking the 1 km back each day which has allowed me to get a better feel for the area and a chance to get some nice pictures. A good lunch, cold Coke and cool pool awaits me when I get back around 2 …Rog about 3. We order dinner around 6…play cards while we wait and then feast on the delicious meal. Email, facebook, news and reading finishes up the day. Pretty perfect.
Friday, January 20, 2023
Gambia #2
Rested and ready to go, we took off for the local bike shop about a 20 minute walk. The shop is run by a man who has connection with a NGO that sends crates of old bikes & bike parts from UK. He and 2 other mechanics fix them and sell them for a very reasonable price. He also will house volunteers who come to work. Omar took us along with his own bike that needed repair. It didn't take Rog long to find his groove and soon was working right along with the others. He had Omar's bike fixed so he and I headed back as Rog now has a bike to ride to and from the shop! Happy boy! Omar filled me in on more Gambian culture info: men can have more than one wife, extended families live together in a compound—many owned by a family member who works in UK/US, very little alcohol as over 90% Muslim, only one university in Gambia, virtually no industry, farming is just to feed family with a bit left to sell to buy fish. Gunjur Project sponsors a women's garden which we walked through. Several wells had been hand dug complete with pulley & bucket to lower and then water rows & rows & rows of crops. Last rain was October & drought will last until July-Aug.
I took a dip in the cool pool, ate a chicken fajita sandwich, French fries & a cold Coke while I waited for Rog to get back. My plan to be at a school today was cancelled as school was closed for teacher training. Tomorrow…as they say in so many hot countries!
Next mornin Adana walked with me the km to the Kulukochi Community Pre-School. The headmaster gave me some background information about the school which opened in 2015 thanks mostly to the help they got from the Gunjur Project. Kids 4 - 8 who live in this area get a rich foundation in well-equipped classrooms. Curriculum is theme based with all four classrooms focusing on the same. Headmaster had a chart listing # of b/g and their tribes. Mandinka is the majority, Fula next with 5 others. He was enthusiastic and obviously loved his job. He had me join a Lever 1 class where a young girl, Laura from Germany was there fulfilling her volunteer obligation for 10 months. She was easy to talk to. I slipped in where I could and time flew. Adana & I headed back after the kids left around 12:50. We got picked up by is buddy driving a cab. A quick dip in the pool and another good lunch then some catching up in my blog filled the afternoon. Rog had a good time at the bike shop. He's enjoying working with the local guys and riding Omar's bike back & forth though it's a trick to ride on the sandy, rough roads & alleys but he's up to the challenge! He comes back tired but satisfied. The kitchen has been sending him a sandwich to take with him but he doesn't eat it til he gets back & then he jumps in the pool.
We've been eating dinner around 7 pm. Food is delicious & plentiful. We've had dessert every night—no weight loss for sure! Last night a kora player entertained us. It's an instrument with 11 strings. We go to bed tired and happy.
I took a dip in the cool pool, ate a chicken fajita sandwich, French fries & a cold Coke while I waited for Rog to get back. My plan to be at a school today was cancelled as school was closed for teacher training. Tomorrow…as they say in so many hot countries!
Next mornin Adana walked with me the km to the Kulukochi Community Pre-School. The headmaster gave me some background information about the school which opened in 2015 thanks mostly to the help they got from the Gunjur Project. Kids 4 - 8 who live in this area get a rich foundation in well-equipped classrooms. Curriculum is theme based with all four classrooms focusing on the same. Headmaster had a chart listing # of b/g and their tribes. Mandinka is the majority, Fula next with 5 others. He was enthusiastic and obviously loved his job. He had me join a Lever 1 class where a young girl, Laura from Germany was there fulfilling her volunteer obligation for 10 months. She was easy to talk to. I slipped in where I could and time flew. Adana & I headed back after the kids left around 12:50. We got picked up by is buddy driving a cab. A quick dip in the pool and another good lunch then some catching up in my blog filled the afternoon. Rog had a good time at the bike shop. He's enjoying working with the local guys and riding Omar's bike back & forth though it's a trick to ride on the sandy, rough roads & alleys but he's up to the challenge! He comes back tired but satisfied. The kitchen has been sending him a sandwich to take with him but he doesn't eat it til he gets back & then he jumps in the pool.
We've been eating dinner around 7 pm. Food is delicious & plentiful. We've had dessert every night—no weight loss for sure! Last night a kora player entertained us. It's an instrument with 11 strings. We go to bed tired and happy.
Gambia #1
We made it…48 hours after leaving home! Let me say from the get go…this blog will NOT be polished or spell checked or anything checked as I have spotty internet if any and therefore, I just want get 'er dun.
We left home on Fri the 13th…always a lucky day for us. We'd wondered since it'd had been such a worrisome fiasco getting our visas which ended with our passports in the lake…but that's another long story. We left our house at 10 am and Ben took us to the airport. Our first flight was canceled. Warning 3. We choice to take another flight to Montreal know our 2nd flight wouldn't be until tomorrow. Montreal had a snow & ice everywhere. We took an Uber to a hotel & slept well. Woke late & read until noon. Our next flight was to Paris which took off at 6 pm, 6 hours flight, 6 hour layover and then 6 hours to Banjur arriving at 9:30 PM, Sun 1/15…very tired. Lemin was there to take us to Gunjur Project. This is run by a family from UK who worked with at risk kids and thought they'd truly benefit from seeing how many other live and let them have the experience of helping those less fortunate. Since they couldn't find a secure and adequate place in Gambia…they decided to build one and then host groups & others who want to volunteer while they travel. Perfect fit for us.
Our room is quite nice with flush toilet, warm shower & fan. We slept well and ate a bountiful breakfast of omelets, potato sauce & orange juice. We met the owners; Jo, Butch, Brandon & Jenny who have been here 16 years and improving the community in so many ways! Omar took us for a walk around the neighborhood. We walked by hoes & stores where poverty was loud and clear. Trash was abundant. So sad plastic, cans & pampers replaced baskets, clay pots & cloth. Our walk took us to a gorgeous mosque which looked over the ocean. Most Gambians are Muslims. The ocean breeze was welcomed! A few kids frolicked naked in the waves Then we meandered through the fishing center. So many fish in humungous plastic bowls being cleaned by mostly women many with babies strapped to the backs or running about. Somehow many were carrying those bowls on their heads without holding on. How did they get them up there??? Hundred of colorful boats painted with unique designed were in the water and on the shore. Some being pushed onto the shore by men using chants to move in sync. Fish was being fried over coal fires & sold as we watched. In another cement building, thousands of fish were being smoked…can't imagine a hotter job. I felt like I was walking through a National Geographic documentary. Omar told us most were Mandinka and they didn't want us to take pictures so I tried to let the scene sink deep in my memory.
We got back to our room, laid on our solar beds with the fan blowing on us and it seemed even nicer than when we got here! Last week we were at the height of luxury in an all-inclusive resort in Cancun. Such a vast difference! Pizza & Yassa for lunch and Sweet & Sour chicken (fresh pineapple was divine) and benachin for dinner…you can guess who ate what. No Diet Coke so I drank Coke…poor me. We have weak or no internet but did get a few pictures sent to our kids. All is well in Gambia!
Monday, March 16, 2020
Wrap up & our flight home to find Jake in ICU
Eleven down...how many more trips to go?? I sure don't know.
Again we experienced a unique, enriching & wonderful trip. Having Ben & Jen with us for the first 2 weeks in itself made this trip extraordinary. To work beside them, see their excitement of being with the locals & the thrill of spotting animals in the wild! All priceless.
Mozambique poverty makes my heart hurt. Yet as in other poor countries, we find much joy. Joy in their everyday lives. We, of course, found joy in helping build new schools along side AHAH volunteers, playing with orphans & disabled kids, spending time with the Larsons & Iris missionaries.
South Africa has spectacular landscapes: felt covered mountains, roaring waterfalls, gorgeous flowers, rich crops & endless fabulous beaches. But we fear for it's future. Many of our Airbnb host shared much about the real South Africa...a 3rd world county with a 1st world veneer...that's cracking. The rich white own everything and the struggling blacks do the work. A black leader governs. The tension was always in the air.
Lesotho is a proud tiny country that is barely surviving & still living in the last century. Herding animals still common. They are tightly holding on to their traditions.
And Botswanan emerging as an African success story. Never had the white/black issue. Their middle class is increasing & mostly black shop in their brand new malls...or in the small vendors right in front of the malls. Several good roads with animals grazing on the side and mediums. Time spent with Em added the sprinkle on top.
The Coronavirus cut our trip 2 weeks short as news of travel bans & flight cancellation escalated. In spite of all the hype, we did not experience any precautions..no temps taken, no gloves/mask offered & no hand sanitizer available before or after flights. Not in any of the 4 airports we were in. Not even Detroit.
When we got to Canada, I put my US sim card in. A recent message from Sarah hit us like an asteroid. Jake had fallen and was in ICU. Ben (with Lysol spray bottle) picked us up, stopped & got us groceries, dropped us off at home and then he & Bekah left for Allegheny Hospital. We made the heart wrenching decision to stay home & self isolate. Did not want to take the chance of exposing Jake or his family to the virus.
Now three days later, Jake is still in ICU but improving and we're on the phone lots but still isolated.
What a strange blessing that we were on our way home when Jake fell...but can't be with him.
Life is so full of twist & turns. Our trips increase them making our lives richer, more fulfilling & exciting and open our eyes & hearts to many places & people in this increasingly shrinking world!
Sent from my iPhone
Again we experienced a unique, enriching & wonderful trip. Having Ben & Jen with us for the first 2 weeks in itself made this trip extraordinary. To work beside them, see their excitement of being with the locals & the thrill of spotting animals in the wild! All priceless.
Mozambique poverty makes my heart hurt. Yet as in other poor countries, we find much joy. Joy in their everyday lives. We, of course, found joy in helping build new schools along side AHAH volunteers, playing with orphans & disabled kids, spending time with the Larsons & Iris missionaries.
South Africa has spectacular landscapes: felt covered mountains, roaring waterfalls, gorgeous flowers, rich crops & endless fabulous beaches. But we fear for it's future. Many of our Airbnb host shared much about the real South Africa...a 3rd world county with a 1st world veneer...that's cracking. The rich white own everything and the struggling blacks do the work. A black leader governs. The tension was always in the air.
Lesotho is a proud tiny country that is barely surviving & still living in the last century. Herding animals still common. They are tightly holding on to their traditions.
And Botswanan emerging as an African success story. Never had the white/black issue. Their middle class is increasing & mostly black shop in their brand new malls...or in the small vendors right in front of the malls. Several good roads with animals grazing on the side and mediums. Time spent with Em added the sprinkle on top.
The Coronavirus cut our trip 2 weeks short as news of travel bans & flight cancellation escalated. In spite of all the hype, we did not experience any precautions..no temps taken, no gloves/mask offered & no hand sanitizer available before or after flights. Not in any of the 4 airports we were in. Not even Detroit.
When we got to Canada, I put my US sim card in. A recent message from Sarah hit us like an asteroid. Jake had fallen and was in ICU. Ben (with Lysol spray bottle) picked us up, stopped & got us groceries, dropped us off at home and then he & Bekah left for Allegheny Hospital. We made the heart wrenching decision to stay home & self isolate. Did not want to take the chance of exposing Jake or his family to the virus.
Now three days later, Jake is still in ICU but improving and we're on the phone lots but still isolated.
What a strange blessing that we were on our way home when Jake fell...but can't be with him.
Life is so full of twist & turns. Our trips increase them making our lives richer, more fulfilling & exciting and open our eyes & hearts to many places & people in this increasingly shrinking world!
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, March 13, 2020
Just landed in Detroit
Made it to Detroit! We're planning to self quarantine. You can call us😊
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Wednesday, March 11, 2020
Update 40
Not much news here in Botswana...cows, goats & sheep are grazing on the side & medium of the A-1 highway, kids are hauling overstuffed backpacks to & from school, barbers & small time vendors are trying to keep cool in their make-shift shops, gas attendants carefully are cleaning windshields & pumping gas, people (almost all black) are shopping in the new malls, chicken & corn is grilling over the 1/2 barrel fire pits, mamas with babies strapped on their backs walk under umbrellas, dogs are outside barking, cells phones are everywhere, pot holes & speed bumps are slowing down traffic, nice houses are peeking over cement & electric fences, kids are rolling tires, termite mounds are growing, workers are hoeing in the corn fields, clothes are drying on the line, outhouse stand ready for use, cars are being washed under shade screens...all under a blazing sun.
It seems in stark contrast to what we see when we check the news in USA....election frenzy, stock market plummeting & Coronavirus exploding. Though we've tried to distance ourselves...how much farther away can we be??...we can no longer deny the chance of not being able to return and/or be quarantine in who knows where...if increasing each day. With just two weeks left...our plans to see Victoria Falls & visit Chobe Game Park...we're calling it quits and making a dash for home. We're leaving 3/12 & will hopefully be home 3/13...yup that's Friday the 13th. It's always been a lucky day for us...the day our 3rd was born.
We spend our last couple days with Em, at the day care center & then took a long drive. Really not much else to do around here. (No where else we've been has so little to do in it's capital city...even the locals don't have recommendations.)
It's been an amazing two months. Who could ask for more?!?!
Sent from my iPhone
It seems in stark contrast to what we see when we check the news in USA....election frenzy, stock market plummeting & Coronavirus exploding. Though we've tried to distance ourselves...how much farther away can we be??...we can no longer deny the chance of not being able to return and/or be quarantine in who knows where...if increasing each day. With just two weeks left...our plans to see Victoria Falls & visit Chobe Game Park...we're calling it quits and making a dash for home. We're leaving 3/12 & will hopefully be home 3/13...yup that's Friday the 13th. It's always been a lucky day for us...the day our 3rd was born.
We spend our last couple days with Em, at the day care center & then took a long drive. Really not much else to do around here. (No where else we've been has so little to do in it's capital city...even the locals don't have recommendations.)
It's been an amazing two months. Who could ask for more?!?!
Sent from my iPhone
Update 39
It's been a true gift to spend time with Em. Last Friday night we again went out to eat together. Em shared much of her story and ways God has spoken to her. It is quite moving. Sat night we went to her apartment, ate pizza & heard more of her story. Sun a.m. we listed to Em play keyboard for the praise team in her church. After church, the congregation played field day games & gobbled down lots of pizza while visiting.
Mon a.m. we were surrounded by HS students who'd failed their exit test as Em inspired them with her words, rapping & singing. And Mon pm we relaxed together in her pool under the stars. Tuesday another dinner & rich conversation. Em's friends & co-workers often joined us giving us the opportunity to hear about their lives.
Em is vibrant, focused, talented, an enthusiastic lover of God on a mission to soften the hearts of the youth here...so they too will love God & be the force that makes Botswana a better country. Em & her friends' truly solid & deep faith is admirable. God is not abstract or distant but personal & internal to them. The love of God glows & pours out of them.
It has been an immense blessing to have had this first hand opportunity to have an inside peek at Em's passionate ministry!
Sent from my iPhone
Mon a.m. we were surrounded by HS students who'd failed their exit test as Em inspired them with her words, rapping & singing. And Mon pm we relaxed together in her pool under the stars. Tuesday another dinner & rich conversation. Em's friends & co-workers often joined us giving us the opportunity to hear about their lives.
Em is vibrant, focused, talented, an enthusiastic lover of God on a mission to soften the hearts of the youth here...so they too will love God & be the force that makes Botswana a better country. Em & her friends' truly solid & deep faith is admirable. God is not abstract or distant but personal & internal to them. The love of God glows & pours out of them.
It has been an immense blessing to have had this first hand opportunity to have an inside peek at Em's passionate ministry!
Sent from my iPhone
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)