Update #8 Queenstown SNZ

> Guess I'll carry on...left Seb's after fixing our breakfast using eggs he'd just collected from his hens. Headed back to Queenstown using a day bus pass so after dropping our bags at Southern Laughter hostel...we bussed all around the area which couldn't be more spectacular! It's like a 4D effect with the dark, ragged peaks of The Remarkables in the background, the golden rounded mounds with lush pines creeping up them all surrounding the most crystal turquoise lake! (Imagine an immense Torch Lake cradled in this setting.). Crazy that just 150 years ago only a few Maori lived here...today almost 30,000 residence host an average of 5000 visitors a day!! 60% coming from China. This place is crawling with young kids 'cause it's also know as the center for dozens of ways to scare the crap out of ya! From the top of the huge mountains you can skydive, paraglide, zip line, canyon swing, ride a luge or gondola and of course, bungy jump. Then there's the lake where you can speed through the canyons, ride in a skidoo like machine that dives under water & then flies in the air, white water raft, and parasailing. Bike trails have jumps so you can fly there too! Or our choices: a relaxing, calm boat ride and a tour of Kiwi Birdlife Park (thanks Karen for a heads up on that one). Both informative and exciting to hear about the progress NZ is making to revive their native plants and animals. 40% of their animals are on the extinction list another 40% close to it. When the Maori came only 2 types of mammals lived here...both bats and a huge number of birds. Quickly the largest bird, the Moa was hunted to extinction as it had no fear of humans. When other mammals & plants were introduced, it wrecked havoc. Today NZ is spraying pine trees with canola oil to stop the spread and replanting native fauna so many birds have returned. Deer which quickly became overpopulated are actually being plucked up by helicopters & raised. Meat is sold to Germany and the velvet horns to China & used for medicinal purposes. (USA take note--it's big $$ here). Another problem solved: the opossum's fur is being made into hats, gloves & shoe liners. Many large areas are being eradicated of non-native mammals (rats, rabbits, stoats, etc). Most programs have been very successful...especially for the kiwi! The water quality of Lake Wakatipu is 99.9% pure...better than any bottled water...and 2nd only to a lake in Antartica. (Fact checking is encouraged as most of what we hear is from the tour guides, boat captains, bus drivers or locals!)
> Last night we went for a stroll in Queenstown's botanical park which was quite lovely...and we were treated to a medley of Shakespearian plays with snippets being performed throughout the park. Us lucky blokes!! Tonight we're catching up on writing...obviously...trying to plan a bit ahead...and gazing at the views & soon the night skies at 45 degrees S latitude...half way between the equator and the S pole!
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Tuatara!

We saw some tuatara at the bird life park today.  They were living at the time of the dinosaurs...and they are still here in NZ today (well, their descendants are still here).  
Love to all,
Gpa and Gma

Can you find Milford Sound on a map?  We will be there tomorrow.

Update #7 Arrowtown, SNZ

Time to move on so said goodbye to Beryl...who told us of all her guest, only one other couple seemed so calm & relaxed & it bit her abit at ease. We headed back to Auckland for a quick night stay near the airport, jumped on an early flight to Queenstown, SNZ then bussed to Arrowtown.  We spent the afternoon exploring this old gold rush town where they'd preserved most of the original buildings and today they are filled with places to eat or fancy clothing, art & jewelry stores.  Their museum was amazingly authentic ...right down to an outhouse with a guy sitting inside and flies buzzing all around.  When you opened the door, he shouted "Hey Matey...can't ya give a guys some privacy??"  We also walked through the remains of the Chinese settlement where hundreds of these hard working Chinese came hoping to get rich.  Most died poor.  The gold rush only lasted a few years but fortunately, the town figured out how to find "gold" other ways...tourist!  Reminded me of Traverse City in the summer.  Star Wars was showing at the tiny cinema where you could bring your own wine & order a cheese platter.  Since we'd hope to see it, we went.  Movie was great...popcorn not.  Next morning, we were off biking a trail along the Arrow river.   Up, down, over long suspension bridges, past spectacular scenery, gigantic cliffs & gorges, waterfalls, deer & Swiss goat farms, grapes vineyards and the famous Kawarau Bridge where we only watched crazy people buggy jump the 120 feet bouncing just barely above the river.  We were both glad neither of us were THAT crazy!  After 12 or so km, we plopped down at a creamery and ate our fill of fresh made cheese and bread & fruit...and Diet Coke and a flat white coffee (Rog's favorite drink here).  Then we headed back...now with the sun brightly lighting up the countless hues of greens.  Tired?  Yup!  Ready to hit the sack--we're staying with Seb who after work biked 28 km with 500m grade.  Show off!!  

Update #6 History Lesson

 A short history lesson: NZ is a baby as it has only been inhabited by people for 1000 years! Maori came first...from Polynesian area & 400 years later Captain Hook & the Dutch arrived. Here North points to the equator and south winds bring cold weather. Gardens are gorgeous on the North island as it doesn't freeze...so a little effort last all year!! South Island is much colder & they get snow. Homes are very modest with huge windows and extremely expensive...$550,000 is considered "affordable" but few are available. Lots of foreigners are buying homes for investment which is driving the market up. Many homes are sold at auctions which also drives prices up. Price of dining out is at least 2x as much as USA. Luckily, Rog & I often share a meal and it's plenty and also the US dollar is strong here....$1 NZ = $1.40 US. NZ are friendly and proud of their beautiful country...and rightly so!

PS I stand to be corrected on a previous update: Jurassic Park was filmed in Hawaii.

Update #5 Farming...by Rog

This place is a beautiful spot with friendly people that all seem to enjoy telling us about their country.  

As one said, "We are a bit removed from many of the troubles of the world!" 

The grassy fields bordered by neat fences or hedgerows seem to go on and on. Cows and sheep appear to all be healthy and clean as they are rotated to fresh pastures often.  We see very little farm equipment and even the milking sheds are hard to find.  No big red barns.  Our bus driver told us average number of dairy cows per farmer is around 250 but he knew one who milked 2200!!  With all of the animals it seems that there might be many flies or other bugs, but the pests are few. 

Doors and windows are left wide open to allow the breeze through-with no worries that flies or mosquitoes might invade the house.  Even with lights on at night the screenless windows can be open...amazing.  Beryl, our Bnb hostess in Rotorua, was shocked to hear that we sometimes get many mosquito bites in a day.  She got one once and didn't like it at all. 

Penguins

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Hobbiton

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Hobbit hole

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Middle earth

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Sulphur flat and pool

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Geyser

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Geothermal area

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Maori warrior

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gorge bike ride

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Maori warrior

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It's not your Dad...it's a Maori warrior known for scary away enemies just by doing their war dance and their looks!  Dad can do a pretty good interpretation...just needs the tattoos.
 

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Kiwi

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Here's a close up of the kiwi...
 

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Breakfast time

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Hope Dad doesn't get use to eating a breakfast like this!!  Beryl (who is 84) likes to serve using her china.  Felt so guilty when she insisted on cleaning up!
 

More penguins

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4: Hobbiton

Stepped into Middle Earth today and wished all our grandkids were with us cause it was so cool!  Hobbiton is the movie set where the lush pasture of the shire were filmed for the Hobbit and the Lord of the Rings.  The narrow, wandering paths took us by 46 Hobbit Holes each with clever and intricate details like clothes lines drying tiny clothes, tiny market selling pickles & cheese, another selling breads, picnic table set for lunch, baskets of garden vegetables, ax & wood pile, tiny, curved leaded glass windows with curtains & candles and each with colorful flower boxes & gardens and the brightly painted round doors.  The stone curved bridge led us past the turning water mill and to the Green Dragon Inn.  How fun to imagine our grandkids playing here!!  This set is in the middle of a huge working 1250 acre farm so cows and sheep were pasturing  in the paddocks separated by thick hedged rows...9000 sheep & 400 cows in all!  As you look in the distance, you see tall mountains just beyond the lush green mounds and not the tiniest sign of anything in the last 300 years.  Peter Jackson (director/producer) truly found the Middle Earth and in the process introduced the world to spectacular New Zealand!  Can't wait to watch the Hobbit again!


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3- Rotorua

My 65th birthday...so thankful to be healthy and able to be traveling with Rog in the gorgeous and warm country!  After a lovely breakfast, a quick bike ride and a warm hug from Frances's, we were back on a bus headed to Rotorua.  Again we passed hundreds of grazing dairy cows but also lots of sheep, a few llamas, horses & goats and even two herds of deer...not sure if they were wild or being pastured.  Our Air B & B hostess here is Beryl.  What a hoot!  She is 84 yrs old and started hosting last year cause she "just didn't just want to sit around for the next 16 years"...figures she'll live as long as her mum did.  Her home is very Victorian, full of antiques all covered with lacy doilies.  Gorgeous flowers are blooming everywhere.  She says she needs to feel grass under her feet to live.  She races up and down her stairs...as she says "like a scorched rabbit"...to check her Air B & B site.  She chucked that just last year she'd been in a restaurant with her granddaughter and when they left she'd said, "Wonder why we did't get our cookies?"  "Cookies?" Asked your granddaughter. "Yes, the sign said free wifi!"  She's learned lots since then!  After our nice visit wit Beryl, we went into town for a delicious dinner.  Then we went to Rainbow springs just at dusk and strolled through the paths of identified fauna...many ancient species and only found in NZ.  Dimly lit were glass aquariums filled with geckos, salamanders and the ancient tuatara...a species over 200 million years old.  No wonder they filmed Jurrastic Park here!  After it got dark, we crept into the kiwi area and listened for the rustle of leaves.  And sure enough, out from under the bush raced a kiwi...stuck his long thin beak up and then hustled back.  We were treated to 4 more sightings of this nocturnal, ever so shy, but famous bird that NZers use as their nickname. 

    Next morning...my birthday in USA...I was flooded with birthday wishes via email and Facebook.  What a blessing to have such a loving family and many friends!  I so appreciated all the wishes!!  We'd slept in til 8:30.  Beryl had a proper breakfast waiting for us and she was off to pick blueberries.  We'd lined up a trip to TePuia...a former Maori village gushing with geysers, mud pools and thermal pools...in other words, smelly and hot but fascinating.  We spent a couple hours hiking around and searching for shady spots with views.  Then we went to a Maori cultural show and learned more are out the past.  Our guide told us the Maori traditionally slept standing up and even today, their elders sleep better sitting up--maybe Joyce (Rog's mom) is part Maori since she has been sleeping sitting up in her chair for 40 yrs!  Their language was only oral until the Europeans came and using just 9 consonants and 5 vowels made it a written language.  Before they arrived, the Maori family tribes often fought amongst themselves but now they are united in their demands for rights and gov't compensation.  One Maori said one of the biggest problems the Europeans brought was a disease called obesity & diabetes...their diet!  Then she broke out in a laugh and her large belly jiggled!!  Time to end this post.... KIA ORA. (Maori for Live Long)

2: Auckland to Paeroa

Woke early and jumped on a bus that circled Auckland giving us a more complete picture of this city which is home to half the New Zealanders.  High rise living right down town is everywhere and we were told, people love it!  Rent even in the suburb can run $350 & up...a week!!  After two days, we were ready to head out and see the countryside.  For about 3 hours we traveled in a nice bus (no chicken buses here) on a smooth expressway southeast and for about 45 minutes we passed modest and small homes on tiny lots.  Then the houses became sparse and the cows took over the land.  Pasture fields and piles of round bales covered the wide valley between two mountain ranges.  Eventually, the cows and our bus was roaming the hills.  We arrived at our stop, Paeroa where our hostess, Frances was waiting for us.  In a few minutes, she was showing us around her home...our home for the next two days...our first Air B&B experience!  It's a darling cottage style & we were surprised to learn it was 100 years old though totally and tastefully remodeled.  A short time later, she volunteered to take us to the beach...off we went.  Surfers and children were enjoying the huge waves.  Frances was a well of information telling us NZers love the water and go to the beach all year...if only to walk the miles of beaches and feel the ocean air.  She was proud of the people running the country calling them very smart with a desire to improve NZ.  We stopped by a quaint restaurant hidden away in the mountains and enjoyed some unique appetizers and tasty, spicy pizza.  It's great having a personal tour guide!  Next morning we were treated to a lovely breakfast and then headed to the bike shop where Rog had reserved two motorized bikes. By 9 a.m., we were on the Hauraki Rail trail only recently opened and touted as "undoubtedly one the the most picturesque rides in NZ."  In late 1800's, this area was a booming gold mine town where in today's value they produced $5 billion of gold and $575 million of silver.  We rode through the remains of the factories and rails...skeletons of gigantic steels pieces and cement foundations.  We biked through a 1 km mountain tunnel...dark, cool & wet.  At the center of the spectacular Karangahake Gorge, we locked up our bikes and hiked back on a trail that hugged the steep cliffs where some of the mining rails remained.  It took us into a dark...the dark where you can't see your hand in front of your face dark...tunnel where green fluorescent glow worms dotted the ceiling.  I think it was 10 miles long...ok maybe not that long.  Back on our bikes, we headed to Waihi following the river winding through the hills that so reminded me of the Austrian hills...think of Sound of Music...couldn't help belting out a few lines of "The hills are alive..."  Do those cows know how lucky they are to hang out there all day??  At times the trail led us through narrow openings between two granite slabs covered with vegetation and other times we squeezed between tall fern trees which made us feel like we were back in Jurassic time.  We were ready to eat lunch when we got to Waihi and then we headed back viewing all from a different angle.  In all we traveled about 50 km...and were very glad we had that button that kicked in the motor whenever we wanted!  Think we'll rest well tonight!!

Pictures of day 1

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Eighteen in the air, 6 hour layover in LA & 2 in Tahiti (why did we not have a 2 day layover there???)...and now we are in Auckland.  Dead tired.  Found our hotel and a meal, then crashed.  I tried to wake Rog around 6 to take a walk...he  opened his eyes wide and with sincere fright said, "I'm lost!!"...then fell right back to sleep.  No walk.  We both slept soundly til 7 a.m. And just like that we were on Auckland time (+18 hrs).  Caught a bus to the Kelly Tarlton's Aquarium ...hundreds of darling penguins, Scott's Antartica's original camp display, glass tunnel where sharks, sting rays, turtles & a multitude of richly colored fish swam all around you.  All those fish made us hungry...so we went to the fish market for fish & chips and had a nice chat with the young cashier.  He told us the minimum wage was $14 NZD (about $9 USA) and 15% is skimmed off top for taxes.  No income tax forms at the end of the year.  Caught a ferry to an island just a bit from Auckland so got a great view of the harbor and Auckland...but nothing like view we got when we took the glass elevator to the top of the Sky Tower,  Looking down at the city from 328 meters made our knees wobble!  And people actually hook on to a cable and jump off...really, we saw them!  Most amazing was all the sailboats skimming the harbor and to see a few of the 46 volcanoes that created this area...not sure I'd invest in real estate here.  Temperature is in the 70's and there is a light breeze that'll make sleeping with our windows open pleasant....
So at the end of our first day, we both felt this trip started out so different than our last 7 trips...felt more like home.  It is the first time since our Europe trip back in '73, that we've traveled in a developed country...drank the water right from the tap & didn't need our own supply of TP...and a 8 oz Diet Coke cost $2.50 US!  
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Arrived in New Zealand

We arrived!!  About 18 hours in the air and 6 hour layover in LA and 2 hours in Tahiti.  We are tired but excited to start exploring New Zealand!!

2016: NZ, Australia & Papua New Guinea

Hi and Goodbye!

We will be boarding the plane this Sunday for our trip to New Zealand, Australia & Papua New Guinea...so I'm checking my list to see who wants off before we leave.  Speak up now and you can avoid lots of long emails from me later!! If you don't respond, you'll stay on my list.  I write lots so when I get home, my trip journal is done and memories saved.

Hope to catch up with most of you when we return....but please keep in touch via email while we are gone!

Roger and Jane

Final thoughts

Final Thoughts
Never have I been in a place that needed more help than Tacloban.  We've seen many poor...but never so many poor burdened with so much loss.  Their resilience and faith is remarkable.  In China we saw great need...but we could do so little to help...water was not to be found and only the gov't could allow them to move from their unproductive & isolated location.  Here with AH, we could make a dent.... and have a great time with amazing kids from all over the world.  Our week helping the special need kids at Mother Teresa's orphanage and the two weeks with Children's Garden was very rewarding and brought lots of smiles to us and the kids.  Walking among the ancient yet still worked rice terraces was breathtaking.  Bohol's beach was relaxing.  And as usual, Rog got us where ever we wanted to go and shared all the joys & challenges with me!  How can I be so blessed???

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Update 57

The founder of All Hands, David Campbell, his wife, Gay (Boston) and the major fundraisers, Ian & Shannon (London) arrived.  I learned lots about AH.  Just ten years ago at the age of 62 David started AH.  He'd gone as a volunteer to help after the Indian Ocean tsunami and that sparked a fire within him.  We enjoyed hearing him enthusiastically talk about AH.  Here's a few things he said that impressed me:

-AH's motte:  Get Shit Done

-3 major missions:  help disaster victims, give them encouragement and volunteer personal growth

-AH steps in when an event overwhelms a community with over 100,000 homes destroyed

-Only way to know what the needs are is to be there so they always send in a crew ASAP

-Over 2 million people live in refuge camps & average stay is 17 years

-AH counts on volunteers and also trains & hires locals

-It cost AH about $25 a day for each volunteer (food, housing, transportation, staff) and about $30,000 a month to run the Tacloban project which includes building homes each about $5000.

-AH gets some funding from other major NGO's like Habitat, Blessing Children & OIM.

-Because AH did not feel like they were qualified to help in the ebola & yet wanted to help...they offered some of their proven, effective staff to help with the organization...they know work for another NGO.

-His final & strongest message to us was that we are not late to the party...we are the party.  AH is young and he looks forward to seeing how the AH volunteers create the next growth phase...we are the creative ones on the ground solving problem after problem on work sites that vary day to day.  We are the ones that will see and meet the needs in the future.  Inspiring message to this group he called:  "The good for nothings."  

Update 58

Out of Our Comfort Zone          by Rog

Volunteering with All Hands has been one of the best experiences of my life.  I hope that there will be an  opportunity for us to work with them again.  If we had not been willing to get out of our comfort zone we would never have come here.  It has been a great joy to meet and work with wonderful, energetic people from many countries who have come together with the purpose of helping the people of Tacloban.  It really gives me hope for the future when I see volunteers from various places around the world coming together with a common humanitarian purpose.  Many volunteers speak of how much fun they are having and if they must leave, how they can't wait to come back.  One girl simply said, "This is happiness!".  Those that have to go on mandatory break complain that they have to leave.  Who would have guessed that hard manual labor could be so uplifting and valuable to the volunteers?

We are here and helping those who have suffered greatly.  As we build in Barangay 83C, the houses go up in front of the family and offer hope for them to have a brighter future.  The fact that so many volunteers come back day after day and continue to help the community reminds everyone there that although they have suffered so much  they are not forgotten in their misery.   

The founder of All Hands said it best when he told the volunteers, "You are a bunch of good for nothings". He explained that we are like-minded people who are willing to do good for nothing.  Actually most volunteers have given up jobs and/or other opportunities for the chance to be here helping the people of Tacloban.  I am awed by the level of commitment by many...not just weeks but months and months of volunteer labor...some have been here since the typhoon struck in Nov. 2014.  The conditions here are challenging..just walking down the street is tough (see Jane's scraped knees).  Tools are shared among many volunteers so that just when you get going and start to make some real progress  a saw or chisel or tape measure  disappears for a while. The local carpenters that are also working on the house cheerfully share the tools with us even though most of the volunteers are not as efficient  with the tools as they are. They know that their continued employment is dependent on the success of the project and funding necessary to build would disappear if the volunteers were not here (Typhoon Yolanda is old news now so less is given to assist them).

 We carry all of the tools (some purchased with DUMC $) to the worksite  each day so the loading and carrying of tools is a big job that seems to get accomplished easily by the mostly 20-something volunteers who manage the chore without complaint.  One day it was announced that there would be no power from 6AM to 6 PM -good thing we have been improving our skills with hand tools!   The building site itself is usually a tiny lot surrounded by neighboring houses so there is very little room to  spread out and have sufficient space to work.  Nearly all of the neighboring houses were put up by families after the typhoon.  They used anything available...scrap wood, tin blown from another house, a piece of tarp or plastic.  Many were emotionally scarred by the typhoon and the loss of their loved ones but had no choice other than to carry on the best they could.  They generally cannot afford to purchase anything for their house.  When I gave my worn shoes to one of the carpenters he said, "Thank You!  I spend all of my money on my family so  I have no money for shoes."  

Update 59

It's been a long time since we've been so dirty & tired!  We have both been working on building homes for the last many days:  nailing up wall boards, laying floor boards, constructing windows, hauling wood, digging holes, mixing cement, bending re-bars & making cement rebar frames ...and enjoying the company of the AH volunteers, home owners & their neighbors. The home owners glow with joy and today, Doris hugged me tightly & cried when I said good bye saying thank you, thank you...

Update 60

Our final day with AH was a trip to Calampong on Samar island where AH is building boats for many of the fishermen who lost or damaged boats meant no food on their tables.  The ride there was through rolling hills covered with coconut trees, thatched roof homes, rice paddies, water buffalo, glimpses of the sea, over the longest bridge in the philippines and all on a newly paved road.  Rog rode upfront with the Filipino driver Ray who talked the whole time and he too told his Yolando story.  He had an aunt who'd lived through New Orleans's Hurricane Katrina and she told him to go to the mountains...he tried to convince his neighbors to go to but they figured they knew how to survive a typhoon...after all this area weathers about 20+ a year...Yolanda was #25.  When Ray came down from the mountain, the streets were covered with debris, trees & dead bodies including his neighbors.  For almost a week no help came.  Bodies smelled.  He tried to help by carrying people to the hospital...but some asked him to just carry them to a church or the cemetery so they could die there.  Today his kids panic when a storm starts.  How do you face that fear so often?  How do you rebuild again...and again...and again??  Why pick up the trash...next storm will bring it all back.  

 When we arrived at the pier, we got in a small boat with bamboo outriggers and crossed a bay where several fish farms had been constructed...I do love being on the water.  The AH crew was working hard when we arrived and we got right to work...Rog planing & me painting.  The man who will own this boat was painting too.  Our time there went by quickly & soon all the AH crew & their gear was loaded into boats & we then the jeepney that headed back to the AH base in Tacloban.  I thought of how Jesus first called fishermen to follow him.  Today I felt Him smiling down on me & all the AH crew in Calampong.

Update 61 by Rog

On the way to Samar, our driver Ray, told me that after the typhoon many people were so traumatized by the destruction that they walked around like that TV show...The Walking Dead.  I don't want to visualize what it must have been like here right after the typhoon.   

Many people tell us their story with little or no prompting.  I think they need to tell someone, and somehow through the telling they can process a bit of what has happened to them and their city.  They probably don't want to talk about it with others who live here as they also have memories of  Typhoon Yolanda.  So maybe they really need us to listen to their stories.

Jess (Filipino now living in New Zealand) rode back to base with us from Samar.   She saw a Ted Talk on Doctors without Borders several years ago and decided that she would prepare herself to work for them.  She is now an epidemiologist and has been working with them for three years.  When she has time off she comes here to work with All Hands.  Asked about ebola, she said that she thought that eventually it would be less deadly and have an impact similar to Dengue Fever or Malaria.  Is that a good thing???

Update  62 by Rog

Traffic and Safety

In our lifetimes there has been great progress in reducing traffic injuries and deaths in the U.S.  We have better roads and road signs and we have many stop signs and traffic lights.  In the developing countries that we have visited we see very few road signs and almost no traffic lights, but everything seems to flow along surprisingly well.  Road conditions and congestion often limit speeds here to 30-40 mph and all drivers seem adept at avoiding collisions.  Motorcycles fill in the gaps between and beside vehicles and often continue for great distances over the center line when getting past slower vehicles.  Oncoming traffic may slow a bit or just move over to avoid the on coming traffic in "their" lane.  When pulling out into heavy traffic little care seems to be given...just pull out and then see that the space appears.  If you need to go in the opposite direction, just look for a little gap in oncoming traffic then make a slow U-turn right in front of them and trust that they will brake to let you in.  This can be a bit frightening when you are riding in the sidecar of  a small motorcycle and the sidecar is the first part to swing across the road!   Pedestrians cross anytime and anywhere if there is a small gap in traffic.  We are told, "just walk".  If you panic and run or stop in the middle of the street to wait for a car to pass by you are usually in more danger than if you continue across the street at a steady pace.  The drivers see you and are avoiding you so it is best to act like the rest of the pedestrians here.

Imagine...Dexter with no traffic lights or stop signs, slower traffic using all of the road.  This might be easy for Grandma Boyce to do because that was what it was like in Dexter 80 years ago.

Update 63

Two more stories told to us by Ray (the driver to Calampong):

-There's lots of foodoo practices in Samar.  For example, when the long bridge was built, the blood of over 1000 street kids was mixed into the cement to assure it's strength.

-Best way to prepare dog:  Day 1 give the dog a big juicy bone to chew.  Day 2 & 3 feed dog rice and Day 4 give the dog only water.  Then cook and eat.  It will warm your body especially during the rainy season.  

 Can't imagine how many more stories he has!.  

Update 64

Here's the best way to describe the "Pilopino"....(yup that's how they pronounce it) culture as told to us by a Filipino:

"We are like the Halo Halo (favored dessert combo of shaved ice, Ube ice cream, sweet yellow & red beans, flan, red tapioca, green jello, candied bananas, coconut milk & cookie wafer)  We are a unique combination of many cultures.  When you first see it you are overwhelmed but the more you dig into it, let the ice & ice cream melt, stir it up....the better it becomes.   And we are like the jeepneys.  From the left overs of WWII, we created the colorful, unique & very functional vehicle that fills up with happy "Pilopinoes!"

Update 65

Sunday.  Our last day in Tacloban.  We set out about 7 a.m. to check out the Chinese cemetery where families build a "vacation" area complete with a little kitchen, bathroom & furniture with decorated roofs surrounded by gates...with the elevated graves "dead" center & photos displayed with flowers & incense bowls.  It's a Chinese tradition to worship & honor their ancestors.  Many must travel great distances thus needing a place to stay when they arrive.  I was surprised to see stain glass or statues of Jesus with Buddhist statues next to them.  Next we looked for a barber.  While Rog sat in the barber chair...I visited with the lady who ran the fruit stand & recharging station right in front of the barber shop...three businesses operating in one spot.  She loved seeing my pictures.  $1.25 is all it cost to make Rog feel & look much better.  And it was fitting that we'd spend part of our last day in Tacloban in a church.  When we found one, we slipped in...just as they were reciting the Nicene creed...the same we say in USA.  Then the choir began to sing, "Lord here I am to answer your call.  Here is my heart..."  I was overwhelmed with a strong feeling of reassurance that God had led me here.  Next, the call to prayer:

Ask God to help us as we struggle with understanding the suffering.  Hear our prayer.

Ask God to continue to have the help we need from others.

Hear our prayer.

Ask God to encourage our Gov't officials to serve the poor and not give into the call of the rich and powerful.  Hear our prayer.

And if my hear was not already torn...the last song ripped it open:

"Because He lives, I can face tomorrow.  Because He lives, all fear is gone.  And I know I can face the future, Just because He lives."  Singing this familiar son with people who'd lost so much.  What an emotional and poignant experience.  Rog & I both fought back tears.  

Back at the hotel packing our bags, I felt like I was deserting.  Last night I'd cleaned my legs & arms with a scrub brush...trying to remove the dirt that had accumulated...Tacloban dirt.   It felt wrong...like I was washing my hands of Tacloban.  Though I know I'll be so thrilled to hug my grandkids & kids, visit with family & friends, take long hot showers, sleep in my own bed, eat meals with no rice and be surrounded by my own, clean home...I will also feel guilty...for having so much all my life.  So many Filipinos asked me not to forget them and pray for them.  I will.

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55 & 56

Update 55

Tidbits:

-Another language "uniqueness" is that words are often said twice.  Ex:  Halo Halo (dessert), Sari Sari (small store), Waray Waray (dialect in Tacloban) 

-Filipino's have the most flirtatious way of saying yes...they lift their eyebrows and have a smirky grin.  

-Since Yolanda uprooted so many trees, it is much hotter in Tacloban.

-Philippine University professors have to do one money making project every year and then give the $$$ to the university.  Tuition is ver low...less than $40 a semester...but most jobs require a university degree...even McD!

-Very few police carry guns and there is very little military presence.

-Our evening AH meetings are short, informative and very light hearted...if only staff meetings had been like that!

-Re-bar foundation frames are a REAL pain to make!!!!

Update 56

The tool shed is done1  Rog has worked almost everyday this week on it and today I joined him.  It will house lots of dirty tools that were being stored in the dormitory.  Rog has gotten many compliments on it's construction and some tease him that it will be christened "Roger's Tool Shed." Bad news is last night the dorm was robbed.  Someone climbed a back fence, crept into an open window in a bedroom where Nestor was sleeping.  Since 6 guys sleep in there coming & going all the time, Nestor didn't suspect anything.  Several computers & phones wee stolen.  Nestor felt so bad...not just because his computer & phone was gone but mostly because he was ashamed that a fellow Filipino would rob good people here to help.  What a shame.

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5 More Pictures

54 and 55

Update 54

It's Saturday & Rog went to a work site working on a foundation but I got to join a group of 7 AH playing with kids!  Again we went to the community with no electricity where AH worked on over 200 homes.  AH had purchased Christmas gifts for them but since Typhoon Ruby hit in early Dec...they had not been able to get the gifts to them.  Amy, AH head of the program,  kept busy with that.  We also took bubbles, balls, large legos, books, bingo, balloons, crayons & coloring books and lots of energy.  We kept the 90 or so kids totally entertained for about 3 hours.  Amy asked me to teach the kids some group games so once again I taught my favorites:  Doggie, Doggie; Bluebird, Bluebird; Simon Says; and balloon volleyball.  I'm kinda feeling like Johnny Apple Seed...only Janey Game Giver!

Update 55

Sunday--our day off!  We had a trike to take us south toward the ocean with only a few ideas of what we might do and leaving the rest to chance.  It was the first time we'd seen the ocean here in Tacloban.  How eerie to face the killer of so many.  The giant seawall was shattered...but in the distance I heard cries of laughter...Filipinos frolicking in the waves.  I could hardly imagine a scene so filled with mixed emotions.  A bit further down we came to McArthur's Park where a monument showing the General, the exiled Philippine president & several US soldiers coming ashore...the statues stood in a pool of water and the plague said, "I have returned."  Later in the day, we'd see Hill 102 where the US Flag was raised after defeating the Japanese.  Seems like we've been doing a WWII tour this trip!  We got into a trike again & told the driver to take us to the next town.  We happen to get off next to a print shop & since I told Amy I'd get copies of some of my pictures, we got that done.  It was a mom/son shop.  Son made my copies while mom fried hamburgers.  As Rog waited outside, a pedicab driver came by singing "Just Smile though your hear is aching..."  Should be the theme song around here.  Then a lady with a huge growth asked for money...since the hamburgers were so hand, we just bought one for her.  There was a nearby church so we walked to it and just before we entered, someone called out our names.  It was Nestor, a AH volunteer we'd worked with. He was with a friend, Ann who lived in Tacloban.  She and Nestor were both electrical engineer university professors.  They asked us to join them for a tour and visit two schools where they were doing the electrical work as volunteers.  Nestor is pres &  Ann is VP of the Volunteer Electricians Organization.  So we joined them and our grand tour began and did not end until 8 hours later!  Ann's sister had been principal of the first school we visited and was now principal of the second school.   At the first, we were shown classrooms where repairs had been done, conversed with several teachers and then they insisted on pictures.  The next school we stayed longer as they examined the needs.  I sat with 4 teachers...one Ann's   cousin.  They were hilarious!  They called themselves "4 Women in Waiting" --Ha ha.   They were married to their classroom.  Ha ha.   They had to re-do all their charts, bulletin boards, decorations etc. after Yolanda took off the roofs.  One classroom was leveled & several others almost totally destroyed.  I took pictures and they asked me to show them to Obama so maybe he'd send them $$.  Ha ha.  The K teacher was a volunteer who was getting 1/3 pay ($150 per mo no ins.) as the school had no $$ to hire her.  She asked if she could get in my suitcase.  Ha ha.  She'd pack an oxygen tank.  Ha ha.  The K teacher said her kids were well behaved and many were reading.  All lessons were taught in both mother tongue & English.  Biggest problem was they had to go poo poo lots and since she had no bathroom--she sent them home to poo poo.  Ha ha.  But they came back cause they lived close.  When Nestor finished his evaluation, more pictures were taken...all with the K teacher hugging me.  Since we were so close to Ann's family country home, we stopped there for a lunch she'd brought :  rolls, cake, pineapple & Coke.  (Typical sweet stuff)  The porch & roof had  been damaged but not too bad.  It was a modest home--rough by US standards-- but as Ann told us about all the fun she and her cousins had here...it reminded us of the cottage in Atlanta.  Coconut, banana, mango, & lemon trees were fun to climb and between their fruit & the rice from their paddy they had all the fresh food they needed.  Her cousin who lives across the street now cares for it all.  He came over, climbed a coconut tree and cracked 3 for us.  We drank the juice & ate the milky lining.  After about an hour, we drove along the ocean.  Ann pointed out her many family members' homes...some quite damaged...but she had not lost any family.  She described what she saw after Yolanda as we passed some of the hardest hit areas:  here's where most of the bodies were found;  her's where everything was so leveled there was no way of knowing where you were;  here' where a house in almost perfect shape sat in the middle of the street; here's the hospital where patients had been moved to the basement for protection & then to an upper level floating on mattresses; here's the church where so many came for refuge but drowned;  here's the Coke plant, the first plant to be re-built; here's a mass grave;  an another;  and another; here's the monument they are building.   As we drove she told about seeing people carrying bamboo poles with their dead family members hanging on them.  Other searching...but other already rebuilding.  She said the people's strong faith allowed them to accept saying the lost were with God now.  Ann said the people were angry at the gov't as they are sending little help and under estimated the deaths because they were ashamed.  The true lost was over 15,000.  Sobering.  We drove to where the 6 freight tankers were washed ashore.  4 have been removed piece by piece and 3/4 of another.  A family lives in what is left.  They are trying to move the only one left back into the ocean.  Can't imagine how?   But then, I can't imagine how so many shacks have been built all around the ship.  We left the coast and headed for the Santo Nino Shrine.. a chapel & palace built by Imelda Marcos as a showpiece here as it is her home town.  According to our guidebook, it wasn't suppose to be open on Sunday, but like the rest of today, we lucked out.  Though we had a guide showing us around, Ann was filled with even more stories as she had played here as a child because her best friend's mom was the caretaker.  Talk about luck!   Opulent barely describes the place...crystal, ivory, mother of pearl, jade, imported items from China, Russia, Paris, Vienna, theme decorated bedrooms & walls with 1" blocks glued together to look like a weaved bamboo.  The chapel had two life size mosaics and the altar centerpiece was a Christ Child statue from Rome.   Ann took our picture in the  spectacular ball room as we pretended to dance.  Imelda nor anyone else ever slept here.  The gov't that took over after Marcos confiscated it and sadly, the humidity, termites and lack of care are slowly causing it to deteriorate.  Priceless art work & furniture is already ruined.  There is only talk of possible restoration.   Ann said that although the Filipinos did not approve of the lavish spending,   Philippines were better off when Marcos was president than now.  We got dropped off at our hotel...but since our sweet lunch was all we'd eaten today....we jumped in a jeepney and soon were mowing down french fries & hamburgers at the Texas BBQ.  What an incredible day!

49, 50, 51, 52 and 53

Update 49

So many hurting people...so many caring people...so much hard, dirty work...pretty much describes the last couple days.  We continue to hear their Haiyan (they call Yolanda) stories.  Worked with Vanessa at the warehouse today.  She's a late 20's Filipino lady.  I knew when I asked if she had children...the answer might be hard...but she'd asked about mine.  She had two both died when Yolanda washed them away while they were with her Mom...a 5 yr old girl & 7 yr old boy.  She described the storm:  winds over woo MPH (category 5 tornado) for over 3 hours and 3 huge ocean waves over 20 ft tall with tremendous power smashing...smashing..smashing.  The water formed gigantic whirlpools sucking in everyone & everything .  The earth was shaking.  Then the dead...everywhere.  Vanessa wished she had died too.  She started helping those around her and then hooked up with All Hands...it's why she's here now.  She has a tattoo on her wrist she says she must read often..it reads:  just keep breathing.  And she and so many like her is what fuels the AH volunteers.  Though I try to do my part, I can't carry the heavy beams, bags of cement & gravel for blocks over rugged surfaces to the sites.  I tire after digging & mixing cement by hand (no cement mixers & we draw water from a well with a bucket) and then it must be wheel barreled to the sites.  My arms are sore after pounding nails (no nail guns).  But these young kids seem to delight in doing such hard physical labor. ..quickly volunteering to crawl down into holes filled with stinky water up to their waist.  And all the time cracking jokes & teasing each other.  Rog can almost keep up with them and they call him "the beast."  He's worked lots on the tool shed.  I felt immense satisfaction when I completed the railing & facade on one of the front porches.  Each thing you do here you hope brings a bit of healing & comfort to someone.

Update 50

Resilient.   I have a deeper understanding of that word.  The Filipinos live that word.  The young boy at the place where we eat lunch told me his Yolanda story today...all the time smiling.  At first he and his sister went to a low cement building for protection from the wind which is usually what they do...but then the water came so they went to the highest spot and still the water was up to their chest...his siter was screaming but ha had to remain strong.  Finally the water level lowered and he searched for his Dad...he found him.  Then he went out in the street in front of their place and it was covered with bodies.  They had much work to do to start up their business again.  He ended his story saying the typhoons & earthquakes make the Filipinos strong.  I am not sure it would have that effect on me.  I asked him what he was studying in school.  He replied he wanted to be a chef...adding "I hope to see you in America!  It's everyone's dream to go to American!"  The conversation made my afternoon work sawing re-bars & sewer tubing much easier.  After our evening meeting, we watched a documentary on Yolanda  (Haiyan) which verified the stories we'd been hearing...the unimaginable strength, length and effects of Yolanda.   Though many meteorologist had been tracking the typhoon & warning the Philippine gov't that this typhoon would be much worst than any other...that warning was not passed on.  Indeed even the head of the Tacloban weather warning station did not realize the danger and his body has not been recovered.  Katie, AH staff member, was here about ten days after.  She talked about how difficult it was to face the devastation.  ..but then after she worked several months, took a break and returned...she wept seeing how the Filipinos had picked themselves up and started over.  Resilient.

Update 51

Today 3 families were given a new home.  The AH group was almost as overjoyed as the families!  In the evening, we drove about 30 min to a small community without electricity that AH worked in earlier.  After playing with the kids a short time, we set up a screen & showed "Despicable II"  to about 90 kids.  How fun to hear so much laughter!  Great Day!

Update 52

Food here is either spicy or sweet.  Don't think a day goes by without eating some type of cake or donut and most deep fried.  Even the banana break is deep fried after it is baked!  And it's cheap!  How do you pass up a fried chocolate filled roll for less than 4 cents??  Meat is usually chicken or pork in a spicy, sometimes curry sauce with carrots, yams or green beans mixed in.  Rice is served every meal except once we got spaghetti--with a sweet tomato sauce.  Lots of cabbage slaw similar to ours.  Kids seem to be eating crunchy snacks all the time and all are flavored:  BBQ, chili, beef, cheese, pepper, pork, etc.  Can't hardly buy a plain chip.  Coke & Sprite...in glass bottles usually..are everywhere but finding a Coke Zero or Light close by is impossible...but I go the distance to find one.  Today I found the first "limitless"  fountain Coke Zero for $2.25.  I guzzled my first one, then heard a bell ring & a waiter quickly came & refilled.  As I finished that one, another bell rang...this time I saw the bell ringer who was watching me & smiling.  One bell ring later, my thirst was finally quenched.  AHHHHH!

Update 53

The language here is so unique...it hopes between the local dialect of the area and English.  Last night we were watching the local news--about 2/3 in the local dialect intertwined with 1/3 English.  When I asked a local about it--he just grin and said "It's our new language."  Though we've heard it for over 6 weeks now, it still cracks us up!

46, 47 & 48

Update 46

It's more fun in the Philippines is the logo you see everywhere.  Why, they can even make a flight to Tacloban more fun...first load 1/2 late, sit on plane another 1/2 hour before take off, then fly the hour to Tacloban & just as it comes into sight, turn around and land in Cebu.  Wait for an hour on the plane, go back to Manila, sleep in an not the nicest hotel, back to airport lines, get to gate, switch gates, load only 15 min late, wait in plane 30 min before take off...finally land... all for an hour flight...and the day after a night on the bus which had arrived in Manila at 4 a.m....but we did have several nice visits with many local passengers and our food bag is much lighter  & easier to carry now.  It's more fun in the Philippines!

Update 47

As we entered the Tacloban airport, the uniformed baggage men chanted a welcome in unison with huge grins--which was not at all what I'd expected from people who'd suffered such an immense lost just 1 1/2 year ago....over 6000 dead & still over 2000 missing.    As we headed to our hotel with a jolly cab driver who had lost his home, we saw roofless buildings everywhere and shacks built from a mishmash of materials.  A few obviously new buildings were interspersed between.  We dropped our suitcases and headed out to search for tools we'd consider purchasing....stopping at a bakery...Rog's favorite stop...and there we met a couple who shared their tragic story of losing their 14 yr old daughter.  Then at the hardware store, the clerk told us she'd lost 4 family members...how weak it sounds to just say I'm sorry.  We found a huge burger & great fries at a Texas BBQ ...and also met the director of All Hands Leyte Project, Smitty who came in for a burger too.  By 8 a.m. the next morning, we were getting the tour & basics of the All Hands (AL) headquarters here...also on the tour was a family of 4 who had come as a birthday present for the Mom.  About 50 - 60 volunteers & staff are housed, feed & tooled up for their work projects each day.  Their routine is a well oiled machine.  We then met with Smitty & together decided the best use of the money our church's men & women groups had donated...2/3 for tools & 1/3 for boat construction.  What a privilege to personally deliver the donated money.  They were thrilled  and so very thankful!!  In less than an hour, Rog  &  the tool manager were shopping for much needed tools.  I was assigned a work team that was building a septic system...soon scraping cement frames & back filling walls...and sweating.  A hearty dinner awaited us at 5 pm & followed by a mandatory meeting that recapped the day's progress, announcements, welcoming new volunteers & assigned jobs for tomorrow.  At 6:30, though exhausted, we went looking for a cold Coke Zero...and then back to our hotel for a much needed shower & sleep.  Though all the other volunteers bunk 4 to 8 in a room, we pamper our old bodies by living in luxury...at least by Philippine standards...air conditioning & sometimes hot water.  A well spent $22 a night!

Update 48

Day 2 found Rog building a floor & ma siding a house.  The wood used is from the coconut tree...very irregular in density, size & shape but locally milled.  AL houses were designed by a young Slovakian, Lucia who had just come to help & ended up being the main architect.  She designed a home with a strong foundation that could withstand a typhoon & earthquake using readily available material (coconut wood/bamboo)  that could be replaced easily if damaged, met minimum standard living code & fit on an existing tiny lot.  Lucia designed a very functional & attractive 2 story building with a small porch all built on 3" stilts.  Lucia's eyes sparkled as she told me how thrilled she was to see her vision--her baby--come to life!  The volunteers that are making it happen are an amazing group of mostly young people...more girls than boys...from so many different countries.  Many have been here for months...some years... and many keep extending their stay.  They work so hard in such hot weather with only the very basic tools and in such rough conditions...but their end product looks like the Taj Mahal compared to the houses surrounding them.  Those houses ...shacks were probably poor before the storm...and just poorer now.  It's hard to imagine how the rusty metal, cracked wood, plastic pieces held together by wire, rope & a few nails can be called a house.  I met the family who is moving into one of the AL houses...the satisfaction I feel make me forget all my sore muscles.    After dinner & our meeting, we were treated to a saxophone concert by Joseph on the roof.  As the notes floated in the cool night air, I couldn't help but feel like I was where I should be.

A few more photos from Rog/Jane

Photos from Chan's camera

45

Update 45  by Roger
A much more comfortable night (for Roger) on the bus from Banaue to Manila...we ate at our hotel restaurant before leaving and had some fun with the cook and waitress when I complimented the cook and told her that we enjoyed the sizzling chicken with rice meal that she had fixed.  They both giggled like schoolgirls so I asked "Will you be my Valentine?" More laughter and smiles.  
Arrived early at the bus stop and had a chance to get settled in before the bus loaded up.  It was good to get dressed up warmly because the AC was working well and we needed four layers of clothing to be comfortable for the 9 hour ride to Manila.  The driver was very skillful as he zoomed around trucks, trikes, pedestrians, dogs, etc. and even one car that was swerving badly across the center line (drunk?) to get us safely to Manila at about 4 AM.
One taxi, then a jeepney (full of dozing Filipinos that could not keep their heads from flopping around so eventually they just rested their heads on the next guys shoulder), finally a trike and we were back in Antipolo to collect the bags we had left there on Monday and also to once again connect briefly with the staff and kids at Children's Garden.  Many of the the boys welcomed another bear hug from "Papa & Mama Bear". But Aguton was most affected by our return.  He had worked closely with me on many projects at CG and I know he was disappointed to see us go.  I gave him some change for his piggy bank and one of my favorite shirts (blue plaid).  He put a keychain (painting of a volcano) on my suitcase.  It reads COSTA RICA on the back.  Hard telling how it got here and in his possession but I think it must have been a valued item for him and consider it a special present.  He is a special friend that I would like to see again.  Dropped off near Papa John's Pizza so we enjoyed a very U.S. style lunch.  You never know when the next good meal might be some ways off !  Besides, they had Coke Zero (Jane's new fav).  Flew to Tacloban but weather prevented landing so back to Manila...will try again today.


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