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Update 15
Back in Manila...a huge sprawling, noisy city...but as strange as it seems...felt like coming home.  The radio in our cab was playing "Take Me Home" so I asked our driver if they have a station for Filipino music.  He laughed & said no so I asked if there was such a thing...and he started singing..first softly but soon with gusto.  When he finished he told us it was a love song in the Magola language.   We went back to the same hotel we'd stayed in earlier & they'd upgraded our room to a gorgeous suite...felt like a palace after the tiny dump we ended up in last night!  We finally visited the Paco Park right next to our hotel.  With a chapel in the center, two elevated walkways encircling it and all expertly landscaped, it hardly seemed like a cemetery...but it was where thousands of the cholera victims were buried.  The walkways had built in tombs 3 stories high.  Many weddings are held there and we were drawn in again the next night by the sound of piano playing...a free concert performed by one of Filipino's most decorated pianist.  Oh Elsi would have been in heaven!   
 We continue each day to go to the Missionaries of Charity orphanage which is named City of Joy...and joyful it is.  Kids know us now and pull our arms, grab our hands & beg to play.  Rog taught them how to have thumb wars and that keeps our thumbs busy!  My kids always called me the "Bog...Baby Hog" and here I go from baby to baby rocking, cradling, singing and loving each one.  Many of the babies appear to be in fairly good health though we heard many had TB.  One little guy, no bigger than a small 9 month old just rocks back & forth twisting his hands in front of him.  Sister told us he was 6.  Another little one...well, I could go on and on as so many are burdened with so many deformities.  I constantly have to remind myself that God is in control & I can only do so much.  When I calm a crying child or make eye contact & make  one smile or return a hug, I pray that for just a few minutes...I brightened their life.  The song "Here I Am Lord" and Mother Teresa's words telling us to look for God in the most distressing disguise fill my mind...and it feels so right to be there.  


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Update 14

Update 14
Climbed into a van with 8 other tourist today and took off to discover more about this island, Bohol.  An hour & a half later, chatting the whole time with the others, we arrived at the Chocolate Hills: hundreds of perfectly shaped mounds the color of...did you guess a milk-chocolate brown??  Yup.  We climbed to the top via stairs to get a panoramic view of these "only found on Bohol"  land formations.  Originally under the sea then thrusted up, the thick coral crust has been eroded and as the coral decays, it turns brown.    Next we stopped at the Tasier Restoration Preserve and got to see the cutest, littlest primate in the world.  The tasier is just the size of your thumb when born and only grows to 6 inch living 15-20 yrs.  Their huge orangish eyes are fixed so like an owl, they can turn 180 degree either way.  The Lobac River cruise was next.  A gourmet buffet of lots of local foods was served as we floated down the recently flooded river where women were washing clothes, kids were splashing, men were fishing & life went on as we floated by.  Elsi had originally planned for us to stay on this river...but the resort had been damaged by the flood & an earthquake in Oct 2013.  The boat docked up to a stage and we were treated to a performance featuring several local dances & songs.  We cracked up as later, a small band on the boat sang, "Country Road" by John Denver...it seems the only songs we hear are old 60-70's American songs.  Our took a quick walk through a beautiful garden & also saw a huge python--a local couple caught it 15 yrs ago & has been making a living exhibiting it ever since.  Clever.   As we headed back these on the smooth roads, here are some things we spotted:  open sided churches, schools with doors & windows wide open where uniformed kids sat, water buffalo in the many rice fields, basketball courts in every tiny village, gas price about $3 per gallon and countless clotheslines & motorcycles  It was almost 5 pm when we returned to the beach...by then we'd acquired several new friends...one has a brother living in Dexter!!  (John Mertz' brother Tom lives on McGuiness Rd) .We quickly changed & headed to the beach...meeting up with a couple new friends!  


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Update 13
We have been eating shrimp, scallops & squid, walking white beaches & cooling off in clear blue water--in other words--loving beach life!  We took a short flight to Bohol yesterday morning.  Though the Philippines is an archipelago of over 7000 islands, this one boast some of the best beaches so here we are.  Actually, this is "Elsi's trip" as she'd made the arrangements...and since she is not here to enjoy it, we feel compelled to enjoy it twice as much.  The pace here is slow, the food delicious, the water mildly cool & inviting, the sun hot & a slight breeze. Boats filled with divers and others long thin boats with huge outriggers & tarps for leisure trips complete the scene.  Ideal.  We are relaxing, reading, swimming, sipping pineapple smoothies and savoring it all.
Many young local children joyfully play in the water unsupervised late into the night while their parents walk the beach selling fruit, sunglasses, boat trips, tours and massages.  Makes me feel guilty not to buy knowing it might mean  little or no food for those kids tonight. How I wish that this paradise for me...was also paradise for them.  


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Update 9
After hugging tightly, we said good-bye to Elsi & Bob.  They made the tough choice to leave 9 days early so they could get Elsi's broken arm checked out back home.  As Bob said, visiting the M of C orphanage yesterday put it all in perspective.  We'll miss them.  Next we were off to find the Pope.  We followed the "We love Pope Francis" tshirts until we came to the street lined with people.   A huge screen was set up so we could watch...or should I say be at the Mass being said by the Pope.  The chanting & singing was glorious.  The Pope's words were inspiring as he talked of the compassion we must have for all.  The Philippine's president was right:  "You bring fire to us.  You are Peter who came to strengthen us."  It started to sprinkle just as the Mass ended...felt like holy water.  The sprinkle meant the Pope got into a car instead of his Pope jeep...but that didn't dampen the spirits of the huge crowd being held back by a line of police officers...none of them carrying firearms as they had been banned instead who were taking pictures for people.  One officer chatted with me wanting to know all about our trip.  As we waited, for some reason part of the crowd racing back & forth between the two roads.  And then the eruption began as the Pope's car neared. "Viva le Papa" "Viva le Papa"  Though I barely caught a glimpse of the Pope--I got huge goosebumps!  Why does the Pope travel so often to poor countries?? If you could have been there--felt the excitement, hope and heartfelt love pouring out from the crowd...you'd know.  The crowd dispersed & we found some lunch where all the waiters were wearing Pope tshirts.  Rog told me he'd read that in one of the Pope's speeches he'd talked about not bad mouthing other people's religion...he made his point  by saying if someone said bad things about his mother, he should expect a punch.  He is truly the People's Pope.  We arrived at M of C just in time to help with the feeding.  I bottle fed one of the twins...who blessed me with throw up and spoon fed a couple older kids (both whose arms were very deformed) who gobbled down their huge plate of food.  Rog read to a group of toddlers and then  spoon fed another child not capable of feeding herself.  We visited with the workers & volunteers.  One lady told me she brought her daughter to volunteer so she might realize how fortunate she was.  Her daughter had a corrected cleft palate.   Minor in comparison.  Sister Jedadia invited us to stay while the kids watched a video of the Pope...but we were tired.   Amen

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Update 8
Last two days:  16 hours in flight, 6 time zones & crossing the int'l dateline and finally crashing in a Manila hotel bed.  We discussed over breakfast first what day it was, then how it could be Thurs when we left Tues.  Took a while to sink in but then we had plenty of time as getting coffee took an hour & a half...we didn't even try to figure that one out.  Hopped on the elevated train looking for Missionaries of Charity (M of C) mission.  Last couple blocks proved to be a real tripper...Elsi fell  while trying to navigate the many obstacles & potted & uneven sidewalk...landing on her shoulder.  Pain was instant...and so were the crowd of women fanning, massaging, questioning & caring for her.  Before we knew it, someone came with cold water & a cab was hailed.  The driver raced us to the hospital honking the whole way, weaving in & out of traffic & refused to take any $$.  Bob registered her ($1) and before long Elsi was getting xrays ($26).  The doctors decided she'd broken her arm & sent the guys the drug store with a list of supplies to buy ($20)  & prescription for pain pills ($10).    When they returned, Elsi was wheeled to the ortho unit where her cast was made before our eyes.  The well splattered sink, cupbrds & walls was proof many had been there before us.  Calmed down by now, we started looking around a bit more.  Not the best idea.  Well worn & rusty equipment, dirty & scuffed walls, torn, faded handmade signs, dilapidated  desk & chairs...all in sharp contrast to the bright white uniforms of the workers.  Less than 3 hour later, Elsi insisted we continue on to the M of C mission.  We tried to hail a cab..no luck, not sure how they got us one to get to the hospital!  So either we walk, ride a jeenpney (old USA WWII jeeps with added passenger area) or hop a ride in the motorcycles with side cars.  Elsi choice the sidecar so she crawled in cradling her arm & Bob jumped on the back of the motorcycle.  Rog & I got in another sidecar and off we all went.  The sisters welcomed us as did about 20 little ones who grabbed our hand & put it to their foreheads. Then we were into room after room of beds filled with children:  bent limbs, swollen heads, drooling, staring, most deaf and/or mute, all clean & obviously well cared for.  We went from child to child, caressing, soothing, talking, playing, smiling and trying to bring a bit of happiness to each.  Sister said to come anytime...and we will.  We left overwhelmed, exhausted, hungry & in need of a western style toilet...so that meant McDonald's.  Ahhh.  Then we tried to hail a cab...no luck again so we went back the way we came.  Back at the hotel, Bob tried to cancel our Bohol air trip...no internet...Elsi tried to clean up with no warm water..I tried to log into my email but it was blocked...and Rog took a dip in the cold pool.  The final straw:  the guys ordered a beer only to find out since the Pope is in town the next 4 days (bonus!) alcohol sales are banned!  The internet came back on...I was able to get to my email ...Elsi is resting...so things are looking up.  Who knows...we might even get to see the Pope tomorrow...

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Update 7
On the beach by 7:30 a.m. munching on the breakfast our hotel provided...& smiling.  Ahhh.  Le --(the S. Vietnamese taxi driver who picked us up at the airport & we have called several times to move us about.  He was a prisoner of war for 7 yrs, his family all drowned trying to escape, waited 8 yrs to get permission to come to USA...how do you not want to give this guy all your businesss?)--drove us to the Pearl Harbor Memorial.  Such an incredible, solemn & sobering place.  What a powerful sense of loss--as Rog said--not only to the thousands who died here--but for the many others who suffered because of it.  Thoughts of my Dad who fought in the war & my Mom who built bombs & worried...flooded my mind.  Elsi was struck with how unprepared we were, how we underestimated the Japanese, how young those sailors were.  After hearing that Japanese felt they could only reach their goal of conquering the east if they destroyed the "dagger at their throat" (USA Pacific fleet), Elsi said she finally got the answer to her question of why they did it.  Bob walked around the Missouri flabbergasted at the absolute massiveness of the ship.  16" Gun!  The thickness of steel surrounding the citadel!  A lump settled in my throat as I listened to many survivors tell their story and as I read about how the captain of the Missouri ordered the crew to gather up the remains of the Japanese pilot who'd crashed into them but whose bomb didn't explode--and give him a proper burial at sea--all the while they headed to battle.  When one of his crew questioned his order, he told him "That soldier was doing for his country what  you are doing for ours."  Seeing one of the thousand cranes folded by the young Japanese girl, Sadako who longed for peace..and lost her fight against leukemia...made me hurt for all the children who lost their carefree life during that war & for years after.  Then the war ended--right on this very ship where the treaty was signed--the order to begin the rebuilding resounded the hope for a better world that we still are striving for.  The memorial was crammed with so much information, artifacts...and memories...all presented in a reverent & honoring manner.  We were among the last to leave as they closed the gates behind us...we left awed, humbled, sad, proud & with Dec 7, 1941 etched deeper in our hearts.  



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Update 6
Left the "jungle" hotel --which was so well camouflaged that Rog missed the drive 4 times--ate one more hippie breakfast (Elsi's idea) of papayas stuffed with yogurt & nuts and a rambutan -a fruit that was almost scary looking with large red tentacles cradling almost transparent, jelly like center.  We drove north today looking for waterfalls & find them we did!  We also wandered through many small older towns that made us think this was not the $$$ side of the island.  Saw rusty roofs, lots of well used pickups--many with people riding in the back and the sign at the gas station read:  Don't pee on the post by the trash can.  As I stood reading the sign, the clerk said, "Ain't it a shame you have to make a sign like that...and they still do it...MEN!"  We took a side road--or maybe it was a lane--that went through a cow pasture where we spotted a farrow pig & ended at...a waterfall!  At 7 pm, we hopped the plane back to Oahu...so I finally got to walk on Waikiki Beach.  


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Update 5
I think I know why Hawaiians are smiling all the time--it's their language! How can you help but smile when you say words like ho'oulu lahui or aina a ke akua i noho ai?  Can you imagine how much fun it must be for them to hear me try to say these words???  The four of us have made up jingles, tried to associate words with others (example:  kilauea sounds like killer whale) and put them to music...and end up just chuckling over the words.  Remember:  Ou E Ou O O Walla Walla Bing Bang??  Think I know where that came from!  Aloha!


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Update 4
I did it!  I went snubaing--you are kinda scuba diving but have a long oxygen line hooked to a raft above you--went down about 20".  Closest I'll ever get to scuba diving!  The water in the Keauhou Bay was clear as glass, warm and the turquoise water was so inviting!  The fish--how do you describe the color?? the variations?  the artistic designs?  Each a masterpiece.  The spiny urchins clinging to the coral in the background and the spotted eel slinking its way through crevices.  One large cave had two "centurions" guarding the opening..both with glaring bright white markings on their sides which looked just like eyes.  Who would dare enter that cave?  From the boat, we saw dolphins spinning on their tails.   The crew served us a great hamburgers they gilled on our boat as we all chatted about all we'd seen below.  After we got back to shore, we took off looking for a friend of a friend and we found her in her antique shop.  She said she went for broke & came to Hawaii 20 yrs ago...and now she was broke...just like most everyone else who lives in Hawaii.  Prices here are about twice as much.  Next we went to Puuhonua O Honaunau...remains of vacation spot of the Kings & still considered very sacred. We listened to the tour via smart phone and learned much about the history.  It was also called the City of Refuge because if someone committed a crime...he would have to swim across the large bay & if he arrived, he would be forgiven.  We got back to our hotel just in time to see the sunset...just like the day before!  Next morning, up & on the rode by 9...headed to the other side of the island via Saddleback Rd--right through the center between two mountains.  So much barren land with dried out grass.  Past a huge army base & not much else.  Sure never thought any part of Hawaii would look like this!
As we descending, vegetation slowly returned and soon we were in almost a jungle ...which is where we finally found our hotel...on a little side road and at the end of a very narrow driveway that looked like it was hacked out using a machete.  We are in our own bungalows with huge windows that allows us to see the jungle that surrounds us.  Very cool.  About an hour before dark, we headed to Volcano Nat'l Park to watch as the Kileaua crater go from billowing to glowing!  It was as if someone lit a huge fireball---as the night got darker--it glowed more brilliantly.  Spectacular!  We were up early the next morning & headed back to Volcano Nat'l Park stopping first at the visitor center to fill up on info.  Sure didn't know that the ground above the current lava flow has lifted 30' in the last 2 weeks...made me about nervous about walking around!  Mt. Mauna Loa--the main mtn in the park--rises up 56,000 ft from the ocean basin --its weight has depressed the ocean floor 28,000 ft.  That one HUGE HEAVY mountain!!  And we got a heads up on the newest Hawaiian island--being born right now just a few miles  from here...a submerged active volcano that will eventually move over the hot spot that is responsible for the formation of all the other Hawaiian islands.  Who knew??   Like the Galapagos Islands, much of the plant life is endemic (found no where else) and the animals are still changing & adapting.  We basked in steam vents, hiked through a lava tube and buried our toes in the black sand.  We also spent a couple hours at a local medical center--Bob went in hearing very little & walked  out with better than before hearing!  Yippeee!  A soak in the hot tub surrounded by the jungle & eating another delicious meal at Lava Rock was a great way to end this day.


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Update 3
Up early & gazing at Waikiki beach at sunrise...through a cab window cause we we off the the airport to catch a flight to the Big Island (Hawaii).  Just the landing strip flabbergasted us...how did we not know that Hawaii had fields of coarse, desolate, crude mounds of black lava???  After taking off in our rental car, we drove miles saying "I can't believe it!"  The bleak black lava next to the glistening vividly turquoise sea was such a contrast & gorgeous.  Yet somehow, a few resorts we created right in the middle of these lava desserts...bright green grass, fluorescent pink flowering shrubs & pools surrounded by beautiful villas!   We turned off the big road, drove to the Hapuna State park...and there it was...the Hawaii you see on all the postcards...breathtaking!  We sat high on the bank gazing at the sight...& in just a few minutes, Bob spotted a whale...& soon another...& another.  We feasted on that spot listening to the  waves crashing for a looooong time.  We continued our drive on the north west part of the island as the lava fields turned to mossy green fields with snow capped mountains in the background. We stopped at another beach & almost stepped on a sleeping turtle.  Carefully we played hop-scotch on the rocks examining the life between them.  The more we looked, the more we saw.  Turtles were being tossed with the waves seemingly with no control.  No wonder they slept soundly when they finally made it to the beach!  Around 5, we headed to Kona to find our hotel which turned out to be a gem. We stood on our balcony & watched the flaming red sun sink into the Pacific.  Amazing!  Then we sunk into our beds...

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Update 2
We made it to Oahu...after another flight change and arriving in a nick of time to catch our scheduled outing to the Polynesian Cultural Center...had to run out & flag down the bus that was pulling out! We hopped on the bus with the Sly's and off we went right through the middle of the island.  The center had replicas of several of the Polynesian island's villages & reenactments  of many cultural dances...highlight was the ones involving lots of fire!  While talking to some of the "natives" in the villages, we learned that only about 5% of the Hawaiian population are Hawaiian but in the Fiiji Is has almost 60%.  We were all pooped when we got back to our hotel.  About an hour later...the airlines delivered our lost luggage.  Yippeee!!!

2015, we're off again! This time Philippines

January 6
Remember Sleepless in Seattle?  That's us.  Stuck here due to flight delays & changes...Sly's, our traveling partners, however, are soaking up the Hawaiian sun.  I must admit though, these inconveniences are small compared to what so many face each day...and in the end, they don't end up in Hawaii!  We will be boarding soon...I hope.

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We arrived at the Grande Tikal Hotel around 2, rested for about 15 minutes & then took off to shop for things only available here and/or at bulk prices. Imagine after driving over 6 hours of difficult roads...Energizer Bunny Annie was ready to shop!  Back at the hotel before dark for pizza...our last supper  together.  Sister Liz's & Annie's eyes sparkled as they talked about how much they've relished traveling the world (they've been to Africa, England, Italy, Egypt, Mexico & probably more) and especially being able to help the poor people with the basic of needs...their health.  They have been together for over 40 years and built 5 missions that are all still flourishing & healed untold numbers of the most needy.  I have had but a taste of their rich lives...just enough to feel their joy and understand the satisfying glow it brings.  Just before they left at 7 a.m., Sister Annie took our picture with Sister Liz who grinned and said, "This has been the best two weeks in the last 5 years."  Not sure who was saying Thank you more...us or them.

My Final Thoughts

Grateful for another amazing & enriching adventure.  Sorry I lost my camera but lucky that was the only problem.  Confused by how much I have and how little so many have.  Blessed to have spent quality time with Paula, Sister Ada, Sister Annie & Sister Liz...and Rog.  Glad to have enjoyed 2 months in warm vs. freezing weather.  And ever so anxious to get my arms around my grandkids and kids again!

Roger's Final Thoughts

It was good that we visited Belize before coming to Guatemala because we anticipated worse conditions and more danger than we found in Guatemala.  Several people in Belize were concerned for our safety as we left there but fortunately, we had no problems.  It was good to be able to speak English to everyone in Belize & Tobacco Caye was a tropical treat.  Hopkins (drumming center) was very friendly and we enjoyed daily bike rides to the bakery & internet cafe.  A pleasant stop in a country with great potential for future tourism as it is close, tropical and English speaking.  At San Jose Clinica, finally a mission project that challenged me to use my skills with tools!  Sisters Annie & Liz had a list of jobs that they needed us to accomplish and they had quality tools & the necessary parts to complete the work.  Working just 5 to 6 hours each day, we completed the work and added many more...like soaping the drawer bottoms to make them slide easily.  The Sisters appreciation for our work felt good and we marveled at their endurance and commitment to the indigenous people.  Guatemala was a pleasant country to visit with mild temps during the day (even at the Clinica which is 9000 ft above sea level), interesting land forms (volcanoes, lakes, hot waterfalls, jungles, and high plains), cool nights at the Clinica made us grateful for warm electric blankets and....helpful, pleasant people!

Home

We had a uneventful flight home, Ben was there to pick us up in his warm car & we spent the night in his warm house....thankful we had just missed 2 month of the worst winter in Michigan since 1950!

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The last couple days at Clinica Jose were filled with touch up jobs, putting away tools & cleaning up the messes we'd made.  We seemed to linger longer at the kitchen table savoring our time together...and munching on the 10 doz cookies I'd made...most put in the freezer as a sweet reminder of us.  By 7 a.m Fri morning, we were on the road heading toward Guatemala City.  As usual, the Sisters...who have been in this country over 20 years now...explained much about what we saw out the jeep window: 

-mostly new cars because several years ago, Guat gov't passed a law not allowing used cars older than 5 years to be imported (those all went to Belize probably)

-wood is still the main cooking fuel and no fuel is used for heating in most the country

-soil on mtn side needs lots of fertilizer provided by the gov't for low cost

-gov't clinics provide minimum care...but are run by many money hogs that overcharge and mostly prescribe vitamens

-many evangelical churches are springing up led by more money hogs

-but the worst money hogs are the gov't officials who care little about the indigenous people (80% of population) so very little $$ trickles down to most of the people & their villages

-most babies are potty trained before 1 year old.  Bare bottomed baby is propped between mom's legs & she sways back & forth (while she works) until baby goes.

-if you see a nice new house, most likely someone has been or is in the USA working

-education outside the large cities is very poor--teachers can call off school for any reason they can think of including protesting about low pay or recent law requiring them to get 2 years of college to be a teacher.

-young people are getting tired of putting all their income into the family food pot...instead are buying cell phones instead

-no jobs is the biggest problem outside the big cities and crime is the biggest inside the big cities

-change is slow as the 80% indigenous stick firmly to their old traditions...vs. USA whose rich diversity spawns new ideas

-very few couples actually get married officially so no paper work...girl just moves in with boy's family...makes it real easy for boy to be unfaithful and/or desert girl & children

-field work is mostly done by hand (only saw 2 tractors & it's planting season

-most small stores don't have change for 20Q ($15 USA)...which we experienced many times

-NGO & foreign aid pour into Guat but of often used for projects that are poorly planned and don't take into consideration the culture.  Ex:  500 2 hole outhouses were built up on a platform with lower doors where waste could be removed once dried & used as fertilizer.  Problems:  waste doesn't dry as too much ground water and rain,  people don't believe in handling human waste (just like in China), elders can't climb steps up, often built too far from house to use during their often very cold nights and finally, since maintenance is not routine to most, once bottom board rots...it is useless...except for storage unit which many are used for.

-biggest & usually only birthday party is their 1st...celebrating the fact they they are still alive 

-malnutrition, burns, machete cuts & diabetics account for most of Sister Liz's patients while Sister Annie does all OB work

-banana/palm leaves & paper have been replaced by styrofoam & plastic so tossing them out windows isn't seen as a problem yet...except by a few like the Sisters:  Since I was trying to take pictures of the gorgeous view of the volcanoes & valleys ( with Sister Annies's camera)..Annie was looking for a place to pull over and said she didn't want to stop by a garbage dump to which Sister Liz frankly responded, "Can't stop along the road anywhere then." 

Can you see why we love being with these two????

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The Sister want Hermocillo (their hired hand) how to use their tools and fix things so he usually works with Rog who tries to teach him and give him some practice.  He catches on quickly.  He is 19, married with 1 child & another on the way & since his Dad has not been around for a long time, he also supports his Mom & several young siblings.  At the end of the day...he goes home to work on the addition he is building on to his house...which will still have a dirt floor & no heat source (and there is often frost in the a.m.)....while we get to crawl into comfy beds with our heated blankets.  Whoever said life was fair...didn't look around much!

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Our Job List started out with about ten things but when the Sister saw how capable & hard working Rog is...the list more than doubled.  Tomorrow is Wednesday and we have everything done & then some.  Both Sisters are trying hard to think of more.  Our jobs have included:
installing baseboards in 3 rooms;  painting shutters, fence, front gate, two showers & trim on the clinic; mounting hooks, towel racks, toilet paper dispensers, shower curtains, mirrors, lots of wall decorations, a shelf, & rain glutters; builing a fence with wheels to keep their dogs out of their flowers; caulking two toilets; stabilizing the washing machine; assembling 2 bunk beds, 2 twin beds & 3 bedside cabinets; taking pictures of the Sister with patients for a grant report; repairing two toilets, sanding & varnishing 2 doors; cooking the main meal Tues - Fri when the clinic is open; putting 4 meals in the freezer; frying 2 lbs of bacon for freezer; browning hamb with onions for freezer; and baking about 10 doz cookies...about 6 made it to the freezer.  So we have been kept busy and the SIster have lavished praise & gratitude on us.   

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We took a tuk tuk to a small village nearby, San Juan...a very quiet and interesting place.  We shopped for a few last gifts and Rog gave some merchants juggling lessons....since they sold crocheted balls...he told them it would increase their business.  There is a Women's Weaving Co-op there and we watched a demonstration of how they dye the yarn and weave it.  The next day we took the ferry to Santiago on the lake...always a treat to be on a lake.    It was crammed with stands of handicrafts and  art galleries filled with truly gorgeous paintings.   So many times I reached for my camera and then had to just soak it in.  I am adjusting.  

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Dios is the Spanish word for God so it hit me today that Adios must refer to God.  Duh!  All the times I said that and I never thought about what I am saying.  This whole country is plastered with signs referring to Jesus, God & bible verses...but is intermixed with Maya religion as well. Maximon who is smoking a cigar, is considered Jesus' side kick and honored.  The church here in San Pedro is the most beautiful one in town and by far has the best view of the entire lake.  It seems in every town, the church shines even if the town doesn't.

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San Pedro sits on Lake Atitlan, a volcanic crater that is about 20 km E to W and about 900' deep and with steep mountains all around it.  Spectacular natural beauty.  San Pedro is a quirky little town with lots of young and old Caucasian hippies staying in make shift hostels or hotels many taking or teaching Spanish classes, making jewelry, or working in one of the many bars or restaurants for $1.20 per hour to pay their bills.  We are in a nicer hotel with a third floor balcony & a view of the lake...once you look over the rusty corrugated roofs.  The ride here was through many large and small villages where mountain sides were being cropped.  We were surprised to see how many people live in these mountains.  It was an exhausting ride as their were lots of hair´pinned turns and crowded buses...where the seats had been made longer to accomodate more people but left a very small aisle....and mostly, I was exhausted from kicking myself!  We rested a bit and then checked out the town.  Channon had hoped to join us here to celebrate her birthday but she couldn't make it...so we ate a Thai dinner in her honor.  The restaurant offered a hot fudge sundae but we were too full....but we will do it tomorrow...only because it is Chan's birthday!

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A sad day...I ran out of M & M's...and worst, I lost our camera...somewhere on the last of the 4 chicken buses that it took to get us to San Pedro.  I kick myself for not keeping it in my zipped bag...while Rog patiently tried to console me...it was only pictures...probably a hundred just like them on the internet.  True.  And I won't spend a tedious week putting together a book & no one will have to be bored looking at our pictures.  I still have my journals writings.  True.  But it is a bummmmmmer!