Our evenings at base cam are always enjoyable. 5 o'clock meetings are short, light hearted & interesting as we hear about all the groups experiences. Dinners have been fabulous...chicken curry, Chinese, red chili with Jiffy corn bread, egg plant with quinoa, BBQ chicken pizza...all created by AHV's. (I was on the chili/cornbread team). We even had apple & berry pieces with crust from scratch. We have a left-over frig that's free for the taking so that's heaven for Rog. Dinner time is also rich with conversations. We 're enthralled by the experiences we hear about. Average ages is @20. Roger and I are an abnormality due to our age & the only married couple. Staff tells us we are one of the few couples who've worked for AHV...and if they do...usually only one of them is nice :). Kids tell us they want to grow up like us. But we did hear about one couple who celebrated their 75th anniversary here at AHV in Louisiana! Inspiring for us! (See Bob & Elsi--you could join us!).
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Saturday, February 4, 2017
#4 Base Camp Notes
#3. The Flood Story.
The days are flowing together now with each a bit different but each connected by the strong undertow of the need to help these people get their lives back. We've worked in 4 homes now...insulating, drywalling, muddling, tapping, painting...and heard the homeowner's flood story and how they yearn to get back into their home. Aug 13, 2016, 39" of rain fell in 19 hours. Up to 12' of water flooded 140,000 homes in 3 parishes. There were 25,000 boat rescues. It's considered the 3rd worst USA disaster of all times. Why didn't we hear more about it?? Election and Olympics news coverage took priority. FEMA did show up and we heard about the red tape, delays, rules & regulations that make FEMA so ineffective. I told some of these young whipper-snappers to get in there & fix that agency! Did you know they only help people with LESS than $15,000 worth of damage? If you apply for a FEMA trailer to live in, if you are approved, you only get it for 18 months or less. Sounds like lots of time till you try to find someone to get gut, sanitize & rebuild...say nothing about rounding up the supplies. Those someone's are working for people with lots of ready $$. So while they wait--black mold grows. Hope dwindles. When AHV shows up & stays on the job till the house if ready for an electrician & plumber--it's no wonder we see the homeowners overwhelmed with relief and joy. Today the homeowner told us her husband is dying of Alzheimer's and we were giving her back her life. I go to bed each night exhausted and deeply satisfied with my day's work.
Update 2: First Week Almost Over
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Hard to believe first week is almost over! It was so easy to fall in sync here. Monday--my birthday--was also a AHV day off...but a crew was asked to volunteer to paint for a lady who'd been waiting over a month for help. Since AHV services does not include painting--"volunteers" from the AHV volunteers could only do it on their day off. Amazingly 9 (including us) climbed in the van & headed to Karen's where we painted the entire interior of her home--some even got second coats--scrapping the bottom of 10 gals of paint! With much enthusiasm, Karen told us about how crazy it was when she woke up to water pouring in & her daughter slapping her face & shouting, "Momma--get it together & DO something!" She grabbed a few things then waded out to her truck & headed for higher ground. There strangers started filling her truck bed with their children and ran saying they'd be back. She ended up with a truck load and a baby in her arms praying their parents would return! It took 3 days for the water to recede...& when her neighbor opened her dryer--3 snakes slithered out! John (retired air force), our crew leader treated us to shrimp Poor Boys for lunch and Janene insisted on stopping for DQ on our way back. It was Taiki's first DQ. After going out for a Mexican dinner, Rog surprised me by baking me a cake & the group gathered to sing Happy Birthday. When we played games. At one time kids from England, Kenya, Brazil, Turkey, Ethiopia, Saudi Arabia & USA sat around a table playing Cards Against Humanity--and I surprised them by winning. (Thanks to Jake & Sarah for teaching me the winning strategy.). Certainly a fulfilling birthday!
Tuesday was back to real work. We worked in a gutted trailer that barely survived the flood and an earlier fire. Really. Nothing was square. Holes everywhere. We struggled to fit drywall pieces with some precision. But with lots of measuring, cutting, shimmering and lots more humor, we made progress. After a mashed potatoes & BBQ chicken dinner, we were introduced to several new people & said good bye to Zak. Gotta love the fluctuating group of hard working, fun-loving people!
2017: Update #1 Down in Louisiana
Today is actually Day 4 from my "normal" life. Jen drove us to a hotel close to the airport so we could catch a very early flight--first to Houston then on to New Orleans where we spent the night & then called for an Uber ride to Denham Springs- about 1 and 1/2 hours from NO and our home with AHV (All Hands Volunteers). It is basically a warehouse that has been turned into a church. There are about 30 kids housed here right now...up to 60 at highest #. Tarps divide the areas up a bit but it is mostly a mass of blowup beds, cots, tents and gobs of belongings surrounded each. Since we'd asked ahead, we got the "sick" room (at least until they need it again.). It is a church adult Sunday school room: no windows but carpet, lamp, outdoor furniture. Our Amazon bedding order was here and ready to put on our blow up mattresses so we are real comfy. AHV has use of a large kitchen so our first job here was making chicken-vege soup and organizing the kitchen. With only kids here...you can imagine the mess. The 5 o'clock meeting was held in the lounge area which is eight old couches facing the work board. The days accomplishments were cheered, needs we assessed and tomorrow jobs' were assigned. As in the Philippines, we are in awe with how a group of kids from all over just take the ball and run with it!
Next morning Rog got in the van headed to do more dry wall while I stayed back to help with the move. AHV had planned to end this project on 1/30 but got last night that more funding came through so they were excited to be extending it until 3/1. This was great news for us as our tickets to be out of here were for 2/16. Hanging loose works again! AHV was asked to move the sleeping area and tool storage to a different section of the church, so my crew worked on that. We also sanitized brooms that had been used during the mucking out stage. I helped with dinner and we both were on clean up. After the meeting, a bunch of us watched Twister on TV...since we were on a tornado watch for the second night in a row. One hit last night two hours from here. Brandon and three others will be leaving tomorrow morning to assess the need for another AHV site in Mississippi. It'll be his 6th time this year.
Sunday--day off. We woke to the sound of choir practice then went for a walk to get the lay of the land nearby. Flood damage is mostly debris near here. Near Janet's house, there were lots of FEMA trailers parked beside gutted homes with broken windows...and piles & piles & piles of trash. Made phone calls home, did our wash, writing and enjoyed down time with other volunteers & feeling good about being here!
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Tuesday, March 22, 2016
Jane's Final Thoughts
It's hard to believe during this trip we've stayed on the same planet...and in relatively short distances between stops! Our first weeks in NZ--spectacular beauty, natural & high adventure attractions galore, alive with excitement and pride. The Milford Sound alone is worth the flight. The next month in Australia--such diversity in geography , animals & people (Aborigines, Sydney multicultural new-age crowd to the laid back mountain people). Clean & busy. Koala & Roos are the cutest, Opera House more beautiful than any photo and the magnificent GBR overwhelms you with awe. Then the final three weeks in PNG--like stepping back in time. Painful to see such poverty living in such a mess and struggling to find a way to improve...yet a joy to hear the laughter and see (and be part of) the love they have for their clan. Really a baby--only 40 yrs since an independence was given them...without them asking...and before they were ready to thrive. The mountains, waterfalls & huge shady trees...pockets of beauty. We longed to see more of PNG--the villages & islands--but it was not safe to venture out. Jr & Mindex were our guides, cultural interpreters and body guards...without them, we'd have experienced little of PNG...and probably been robbed...though not put in pots as that has been taboo for almost 40 yrs. We are so appreciative of them!! Our volunteer work was at times so rewarding and other times so frustrating. In many ways it was the same scenario that takes place in all the 3rd world countries we've visited. We formed a special bond with the Tembari teachers & left them with many supplies & books. We taught many lessons & read many books to the kids & teachers. All can sing new songs & play new games. It certainly was our most challenging teaching experience!
Three countries...three worlds...and so far from home. I feel so amazingly lucky to have so many experiences in so many countries...and to have shared it with Roger. Every time I come back home, I appreciate & enjoy my family, friends, home & country even more!
Update #68: Books Read
R & J: Down Under by Byson - hilarious & educational travel guide in story form. Must read for anyone going to or has been to Australia!
J: The Song Master by Di Morrissey - Though fiction, it was full of info about the Aboriginal culture.
Take away lines: "white men...were empty people who'd had to search for meaning in their lives, for they had no identity in the land. He knew that when one is part of the proper world that is the earth, then on is happy."
"She had the curiosity of a child, the eagerness of a young dog and an intellect that accepted answers that were alien to her thinking."
R & J: If I Were God, I'd Make Myself Clearer by Dickson - thought provoking
R: Short History of Nearly Everything by Byson - scientific history of world from atoms to dinosaurs to space written with Byson's unique sense of humor.
Update #67: Visit with Parliament Worker
Update #66: Minister Mtg
Update #65: short notes
-Our ride: Mindex drives 10-15 year old small car with door handles broken so they use zip ties to open them...it bottoms out often due to ruts or humps. But those passengers in the few big fancy 4 wheel cars with tinted windows up are missing out on much of PNG...they have no real contact with the land!
-Many taxi cars we see have smashed windows on the drivers' side...Mindex says it from angry drunks.
-Tried to visit the National Museum of Art & Culture...according to the gate guard, it's closed indefinitely till bills are paid.
-National Library is closed Sat & Sun at noon.
-Most businesses close at 4:06 pm.
-Babies usually only nurse 3-4 months and then mom feeds them pre hewed food.
-Pumpkin leaves are harvested and sold for food...boy did we blow it when we were growing pumpkins!
-Can't even begin to tell you how many people in all three countries ask us about Trump. The papers have been full of articles about our elections. From what we see & hear, he'd get no votes in NZ, Aust or PNG. One Australian told me, "If Trump wins, I thinks it will destabilize the world."
-Not seeing a mirror in three weeks is kind of liberating!
-My mission diet is working again...lost the "pouch" I appropriately gained in Australia!
-My favorite sound today was curls of laughter coming from the house behind us...it may be primitive but full of joy...at times anyways!
Update #64: Future of PNG by Rog
Our experiences here have kept us on a roller coaster, but we can look forward to returning to our "normal" world. For those here,normal is totally different. Hayward suggested that it might take thousands of years for PNG to catch up to the rest of the world. When he said that I thought it was far too long and there should be hope that conditions will improve much sooner than that....just look at how far the USA has come in just over 200 years! Now I am thinking... Maybe he was right. The USA developed from Western Civilization, but PNG is rising from primitive culture.
Roads are being built all around Port Moresby. The new LNG (liquid natural gas) plant is big and exciting but essentially sealed off from the local population. Construction here is continuous and prices are high. Papuans see opportunity for wealth and jobs. But PNG has great obstacles to overcome-- Workers from Maylasia are brought here to build the roads because they have the skills and tools to get the job done, while locals remain unemployed and struggle to survivie. Maylasians also are building houses that are unaffordable for the Papauans ( $300,000 US). Foreign investors are making big profits as resources here are exploited (much to the dismay of many Papuans).
Many people from the provinces have come here to the Capital for opportunity but find too little. Most are unemployed, but many sell snacks or garden produce from makeshift stands to earn a few Kina. Cooks at Tembari got paid about $3.50/ day and teachers about $7/ day. Not great paying jobs but all done with love for the children.
As we have seen in many other developing countries, many Papuans appear content to live with basic necessities. By that I mean that as long as basic needs are met there is little reason to do more. They also correctly blame government corruption for the poor condition of all infrastructure in the country (esp. roads, bridges, power supply, water supply). Once again, leaders lining their pockets at the expense of the poor. Will this ever change?
850 languages have made communication extremely difficult. Each tribe has their own culture and the people all are very proud of their tribal customs. All seem intent on passing their own tribal traditions on to the next generation as that is a huge part of their identitiy. These traditions and culture are the fabric of the country...it is who they are and they let you know right away to which clan they belong. The clan is so close that they call each other brother or sister even though the actual relationship may be cousin or more distant. The fact that the men may have more than one wife leads to many half brothers/sisters which increases the size of the clan also. They are right to highly value their culture. But their culture may get in the way when trying to become a modern society...We have heard some tell about their home village where water, food and housing is free and you just live free. No bus fare, no job, no gasoline to buy. Sounds great -so why do they come to the city? Probably because there is also no electricity, no TV, no refrigerator, no cell phone, no excitement, no opportunity for a better life. They come here for opportunity and they look forward to having the benefits of the modern world. At the same time they also continue their cultural ways-which may prevent them from achieving individual success. For example they help each other in many ways...sharing homes with many members of their clan, helping to pay bride prices, helping to pay funeral prices, financially assisting in times of need, caring for children and elderly, etc. When we thanked Junior for being our host in PNG he replied, "I had no choice. My brother asked me to do it." No question... he will do whatever he can for members of his clan.
Sharing their time and their wealth is of utmost importance and this leads to the following thought...
In Oro province, PNG, there is a cultural taboo against one person having more than the rest-as I was told, "if one person has more, he will die. We don't want any one person to be better than the rest of us."
As societies move from primitive to modern we gain some things (wealth, independence,comfort) but we may also lose some things, too (shared lives, support in times of need, work/skill connections that bind us securely to one another). It appears that even when you succeed and think you have it all, you don't really have it all.
L
Update #63: Gifts
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Update #62: PNG Jokes (related by Rog)
...A newly arrived American was being driven around Port Moresby in a taxi and after a short while he asked the taxi driver, "Is this area hostile?". "Yes", came the reply. "Hoss style, pig style, chicken style, and dog style!"
An Australian stopped by a market to look at some crafts and noticed some wood carvings of a native that looked very much like the man who was selling the carvings. He looked at the carving, then at the seller, then at the carving again, then again at the seller...trying to decide if the man had used himself as the model for his work as there was a great resemblance. The seller wanted to ask the man if he would like to buy his carving, but he said "You look like my carving?"
Riding around with a local driver on a typically hot day, the Australian stopped to get cold drinks for them...After a refreshing swig, the Australian said, "Fantastic!" (Wanting to show off his use of English) the driver took a swig and declared, "Coketastic!"
Riding on a bus a man noticed that very confused-looking man beside him was chewing paw paw seeds. He asked the man what the seeds do and he was told, "They make you think much better!" He thought that he should give it a try so he asked "How much to try it?". "Just one Kina for 20 seeds." He purchased some seeds and seemed to enjoy his ride for some time. Then the bus stopped at a market and he got off to buy a snack. At the market he saw paw paws...five for one Kina and each had about one hundred seeds!
When he got back on the bus he complained, "I paid too much for the seeds!"
"I see you are thinking much better already!"
A preacher was explaining to the congregation that God is always with you. He said, "Wherever you go, he go! Whatever you do, he do. Whenever you stay, he stay. Wherever you are, he are!"
A man took his son to swimming lessons and following the lesson many swimmers were returning to their parents but the man could not find his son. The boy was wearing a pair of swimmer's goggles and was unrecognizable to his father.
A couple went to see the judge to complete their divorce and the judge said, we will ask each of the five children with whom they will go. So he asked the first, "Will you go with the father or the mother?" The child replied, "Mother". So he asked the next child and again, "Mother".
When he got to the last child all previous answers had been "Mother" so the father said to the judge, "Will you please change the wording so that you ask this child, 'Will you go with the mother or the father?'"
The judge agreed to do this. But in the end the final child also answered "Mother".
Then the man said, "I ,too, want to go with the Mother!"
A woman was riding on the bus when the the fare collector called to her from the front of the bus saying, "Hey, you. Bus fare!" She turned around to see if there was someone behind her but didn't respond to him. So again, he looked at her and said "You. Bus Fare!" Again she turned around to see who he was speaking to. Once more he called to her, "Bus fare!"
Then she said, "The person you are talking to is out of your network area".
A priest was preparing to serve Holy Communion to a group of young people who were receiving their first Communion. As he turned with the platter of host in his hand a loose button fell from his shirt onto the platter. Communion proceeded as usual and following the service one boy asked his friend what he thought of the experience. He replied, "I thought that I would get the body of Christ, but I got the bone of Christ!"
Saturday, March 19, 2016
Update #61
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Update #60
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Update #59
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Update #58
Down by the Bay (rhyming words) and There Was A Tree (science). We never know when the day will end...too hot, no water, rain coming, upset owner....each day is unique but always filled with so many hugs & smiles.
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Update #57
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Update #55
Bikpela Jisas
Olsum Yu
Bikpela Tumas
Lookim
Translation:
Because of You
Big Fellow Jesus
Awesome You
Big Fellow Too Much (expression for God)
Look at Him
It always gives me goosebumps to sing & praise God with a church full of locals...mostly woman. We sang the above song in Pidgin English and then in English we sang a song we sing at DUMC--Here I Am to Worship. A butterfly flew by while we were singing--always a sign to me that my Mom is close. Big goosebumps! Though we were the only whites, we felt so connected. The sermon was on God's awesome love for us--pretty easy for me to believe as He has blessed me so much...but I wondered how those around me felt. A quote in the bulletin popped out at me:
Praise God for "challenges" in life...it is during these times that we truly experience His power and presence in our lives and protection over us His children. Thank you Father for this gift of life in all its fullness." Kiri
I know this to be true and have seen how strong faith is in so many dire situations we have seen in our travels. My prayer today was that these people surrounding me would truly feel His amazing love. The minister ended his message reminding us that we much show we're Christians by our actions, words & how we live our lives...a true challenge to those who have so little...and thus of us that have so much.
The praise band was excellent & sincere. The church itself was a large metal shed, cement floor, mic, big screen & lots of fans...thank goodness. Bulletin reported last week's collection was almost $6000. Wow! At one point it started to pour...the rain on the metal roof made it impossible to hear the minister even with his mic...but the sermon went on. At the end, 8 young people came to the front as they were going to be baptized. They were asked to answer 3 questions--but just like in our classes--not one answered...so the minister said, "I do." Then into the pouring rain they went to the baptismal pool where they were dunked. Kinda a double baptism.
As we sat waiting for our ride, a man came up to talk to us about the church's vision of cell groups...based on The Purpose Driven Life...same book our church studied. It really is a small world which is trying in any ways to be more united. The man shook his head looking amazed as he was leaving & said, "Imagine, I was just talking to people from half way around the world!"
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Update #54
Update #50
-Grace rides to/from school with her daughter, Joyce on the bus as kids are kidnapped for $$.
-Indians & Asians are coming to PNG to be chefs so lots of Indian & Chinese food on menus.
-Malaysians are the biggest land buys & are building lots of factories here. They hire PNG to do the low pay, short term grunt jobs only.
-Rog & I have more food stored in the landlords frig than they do...and they feed about 8 - 10 people every day!
-The cleaning lady's son recently died so Grace prepared a huge pot of food for them. Since they are also from Mt. Hagen area...the food was their traditional food. Grace brought us a huge bowl of it also...which we devoured...beat pbj sandwiches!! First she built a wood fire, filled a pot with water. When it started to boil, she added ferns, then topped it with chicken, sweet potatoes, bananas & finally, grated coconut. When you eat the fern, you strip the vine with your fingers which leaves you with a small bunch of greens. The bananas tasted very much like potatoes. We are lucky to be with such generous & friendly people!
-Jr's matter-of-factly advise to us before we entered a market: Do not go count your money or someone will surely poke you with a knife. We heeded his advise.
-Ants do not respect teachers while they are teaching and will bite their toes causing much pain & blisters. I know from first hand experience.