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Monday, March 4, 2019
Update 61
Cairo is so jammed packed with remarkable relics of the past that after 6 weeks, we still haven't seen them all!
Here's a few we've visited on our free days:
Manual Palace Museum
Home of the Crown Prince Mohamed Ali Tewfik, dazzling, exquisite, lavish are a few words that come to mind. He designed it himself & spared no expense. He filled it with inherited splendid furniture, family portraits & Turkish tapestry. The complex included a throne room, a clock tower, a mosque, a golden hall and a residence hall.
Islamic Cairo
One of the oldest areas in Cairo and has over 20 buildings built between 1200-1400 AD. Mansions, mosques, palace, churches & a Turkish bath. It boast the most outstanding example of Medieval architecture. The tile work is intricate and gorgeous. The elaborately decorated ceilings are 30-40' high with stunning chandeliers hanging from them. The detail! The workmanship! Phenomenal!
Khan Al Khalili
Massive market selling most everything from junk made in China to unique antiques. Though neither of us are shoppers—understatement-we did stroll through the streets & alleys.
Zamalek Marriott
The once magnificent palace of Empress Eugenie...built to celebrate the opening of the Suez Canal...was in near ruins when the Marriott purchased it. The have brought it back to it's earlier splendor and built the hotel around the central wing of the palace. We were united to eat lunch there by 3 couples we'd met at church. We were definitely hop-bobbing with the privileged that day!
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Here's a few we've visited on our free days:
Manual Palace Museum
Home of the Crown Prince Mohamed Ali Tewfik, dazzling, exquisite, lavish are a few words that come to mind. He designed it himself & spared no expense. He filled it with inherited splendid furniture, family portraits & Turkish tapestry. The complex included a throne room, a clock tower, a mosque, a golden hall and a residence hall.
Islamic Cairo
One of the oldest areas in Cairo and has over 20 buildings built between 1200-1400 AD. Mansions, mosques, palace, churches & a Turkish bath. It boast the most outstanding example of Medieval architecture. The tile work is intricate and gorgeous. The elaborately decorated ceilings are 30-40' high with stunning chandeliers hanging from them. The detail! The workmanship! Phenomenal!
Khan Al Khalili
Massive market selling most everything from junk made in China to unique antiques. Though neither of us are shoppers—understatement-we did stroll through the streets & alleys.
Zamalek Marriott
The once magnificent palace of Empress Eugenie...built to celebrate the opening of the Suez Canal...was in near ruins when the Marriott purchased it. The have brought it back to it's earlier splendor and built the hotel around the central wing of the palace. We were united to eat lunch there by 3 couples we'd met at church. We were definitely hop-bobbing with the privileged that day!
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Update 60
Since Egypt is 90% Muslim, we've spent much time in their midst and I must say, I admire their commitment to their religion. Their clothing alone is an obviously outward sign that identifies them. In taxis almost every time of day, their speakers blare out the Koran in a methodical sing-song...especially loud in the back seat where I sit. On their dash boards, well worn Korans sit.
Five times a day, you hear the call to prayer blasting from the top of the nearest minaret...sometimes an echo from one a bit farther.
So many men have a brown spot ..some even a bump...in the center of their foreheads. Called a zebibah. They are caused by the friction between their forehead & their prayer mats. The prayer mats are everywhere...in stores, by snack shops, in subway halls...ready for the call to prayer to their one God, Allah.
I've seen many men walking along on the street, riding the subway, sitting on benches...with their prayer beads slowly passing through their fingers.
I see the Muslims being kind and generous to others...especially the street people. I too try to be kind and generous.
I haven't met one that I wouldn't want to spend more time with. As a Christian, I wear a necklace with a fish on it. That's it for an outward sign. I pray...but can't say "religiously" five times a day.
Perhaps I should. Pray for more acceptance of others worldwide.
.
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Five times a day, you hear the call to prayer blasting from the top of the nearest minaret...sometimes an echo from one a bit farther.
So many men have a brown spot ..some even a bump...in the center of their foreheads. Called a zebibah. They are caused by the friction between their forehead & their prayer mats. The prayer mats are everywhere...in stores, by snack shops, in subway halls...ready for the call to prayer to their one God, Allah.
I've seen many men walking along on the street, riding the subway, sitting on benches...with their prayer beads slowly passing through their fingers.
I see the Muslims being kind and generous to others...especially the street people. I too try to be kind and generous.
I haven't met one that I wouldn't want to spend more time with. As a Christian, I wear a necklace with a fish on it. That's it for an outward sign. I pray...but can't say "religiously" five times a day.
Perhaps I should. Pray for more acceptance of others worldwide.
.
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Sunday, March 3, 2019
Saturday, March 2, 2019
Update 59
Day 2 in Alexandria, we headed out in search of the Catacombs...the largest burial site in Egypt. A 35m long shaft in the center was used as a dumb waiter to lower corpse. The most stunning burial area complete with pillars, statues & art work was for Romine Emperor Caracalla...hated by the locals as he'd killed over 20,000 that opposed him...many burned there in the catacombs with him. The seemingly endless dark tunnels had cavities in all the walls. Creepy!!
Next to Pompey's Pillar-25m-guarded by two sphinx and built on the ridge. It's surrounded by partially excavated the ancient acropolis & Serapeum. It's really got nothing to do with Pompey...misnamed by Crusaders who thought Pompey's ashes were encased on the top.
We were glad to get out of the cold wind and marvel at the Bibliotheca Alexandria (new library opened in 2002). A throughly modern building with seating for over 2000. Skylights with some blue & green stain glass made for a enchanting place to learn. So fitting for this city.
In the basement, the Antiquity Museum was filled with more treasures including the mosaic floor of the ancient library.
The Sadat Museum was in another wing and was a tribute to all he did in his life. The uniform he was wearing when he was assassinated in 1981 made me think of JFK. He'd been asked after his peace treaty with Israel's president & Carter what he'd like on his tombstone: That I lived for peace and died for my principles.
Another wing was a tutorial about how & what you could access...a massive amount of information on their website: www.bibalex.org
We spent over 5 hours absorbing just a fraction of what Bibliotheca has to offer!!!
I'd hoped for a nice seafood dinner but getting anyone to understand English here is near impossible & it was too cold to walk far...so we popped into the first warm restaurant ...KFC. Got back to our room, Rog hit the sack while I visited with a girl from England & then caught up on writing.
Next morning, we were able to get to the National Museum to see the items revived from under the sea thought to be from Cleopatra 's palace. And our final stop was at the Roman amphitheater discovered only recently when a donkey disappeared into a pit. Makes you wonder what else is where we were walking.
We caught the 2 pm train back enjoying once again the view from the train window.
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Next to Pompey's Pillar-25m-guarded by two sphinx and built on the ridge. It's surrounded by partially excavated the ancient acropolis & Serapeum. It's really got nothing to do with Pompey...misnamed by Crusaders who thought Pompey's ashes were encased on the top.
We were glad to get out of the cold wind and marvel at the Bibliotheca Alexandria (new library opened in 2002). A throughly modern building with seating for over 2000. Skylights with some blue & green stain glass made for a enchanting place to learn. So fitting for this city.
In the basement, the Antiquity Museum was filled with more treasures including the mosaic floor of the ancient library.
The Sadat Museum was in another wing and was a tribute to all he did in his life. The uniform he was wearing when he was assassinated in 1981 made me think of JFK. He'd been asked after his peace treaty with Israel's president & Carter what he'd like on his tombstone: That I lived for peace and died for my principles.
Another wing was a tutorial about how & what you could access...a massive amount of information on their website: www.bibalex.org
We spent over 5 hours absorbing just a fraction of what Bibliotheca has to offer!!!
I'd hoped for a nice seafood dinner but getting anyone to understand English here is near impossible & it was too cold to walk far...so we popped into the first warm restaurant ...KFC. Got back to our room, Rog hit the sack while I visited with a girl from England & then caught up on writing.
Next morning, we were able to get to the National Museum to see the items revived from under the sea thought to be from Cleopatra 's palace. And our final stop was at the Roman amphitheater discovered only recently when a donkey disappeared into a pit. Makes you wonder what else is where we were walking.
We caught the 2 pm train back enjoying once again the view from the train window.
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Update 58
Alexandria, of course, was built by Alexander the Great in about 350 BC and was the home to the first major library. Alexander was tutored by Aristotle who encouraged the love of reading. Cleopatra had a summer palace here...which unforgettable was built on land now under the sea.
After we'd dropped our backpacks at our room, we headed to the Qaitbay Fort built in 1480's on top of the site where Pharos (light house) stood...one of the 7 wonders of the Ancient world. It only lasted 17 centuries !
Next we headed to the Coptic Cathedral of St. Mark. It's named after the apostle Mark who spent much time in Alexandria and it was here he was martyred...dragged through the streets behind 3 wild stallions. Kinda felt guilty taking a horse & buggy ride back to our hotel. We enjoyed our Mediterranean view until dark and then had to cover up & try to stay warm. It's cold here!!! Well, cold for Egypt.
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After we'd dropped our backpacks at our room, we headed to the Qaitbay Fort built in 1480's on top of the site where Pharos (light house) stood...one of the 7 wonders of the Ancient world. It only lasted 17 centuries !
Next we headed to the Coptic Cathedral of St. Mark. It's named after the apostle Mark who spent much time in Alexandria and it was here he was martyred...dragged through the streets behind 3 wild stallions. Kinda felt guilty taking a horse & buggy ride back to our hotel. We enjoyed our Mediterranean view until dark and then had to cover up & try to stay warm. It's cold here!!! Well, cold for Egypt.
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Update 57 by Roger
Hyena
I talked with a young man from Sudan after class. He told me that he wanted to improve his English speaking ability so I suggested that he tell me about his life. If he made errors in speaking, I planned to point them out to him.
He told me that he was from a family of five sisters and two brothers and his father worked at a stockyard.
After further description I found out that his father actually works with several brothers raising cattle in Sudan. When the cattle are fully grown they sell some of them (about 10 per cent) at the market in Khartoum. They don't sell more because they like to keep increasing the size of the herd.
He told me that they allow the cattle to graze where they can find water and grass. There is plenty of land and they apparently are not limited by land ownership or fences. The herders ride horses or camels and they also have a pickup truck.
He said they have to protect the cattle from an animal that is a serious threat. He described the animal as having tall front shoulders so I asked if it was a hyena. He had never heard that word before so we quickly googled Hyena and he agreed that was it.
As we talked he was very interested in the names that I used and I he carefully wrote them down in his notebook. Cow=mother
Bull=father
Calf=baby
I tried hard to imagine watching the cattle all night while anticipating an attack by a hungry hyena. His father must be a very brave man!
See the link below. https://www.google.com/search?q=hyena&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari#imgrc=QJYAFcMlcODyRM:
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Update 56
We were on the train to Alexandria for $5 each by 9am. Looking out a train window is one of my favorite things to do! I love getting a quick peek of the everyday life of people. We skirted the Nile as we sped by the consistently rich fields of wheat, rice, grasses, fruit trees & vegetables. Even the 10' between the tracks & road was cultivated. Rog read somewhere that some crops grow 27 times faster here. Sure saw lots of butts of the field workers...male and female. Some just sit right on the ground. Tallied 5 tractors but donkeys far out numbered them! Did see one new tractor dealer. Wonder how it will stay in business.
About halfway, we started to see groups of 3 or 4 cows tied sporadically in lanes usually under a lone tree. The manure behind them was proof they'd been there quite some time. We'd see maybe 4 or 5 groups of cows down a lane. Saw a few flocks of sheep penned up.
Pigeon houses...large cone shaped with large holes...are common. Easy quick meals!
Small villages seemed to have turned into large cities with those same tall mundane brick apartment buildings topped with re-rods sticking out the top. The fewer the buildings, the more color we saw. . But still hardly any one family homes. Egypt has a population of almost 100 million so I guess they gotta live somewhere!
Everywhere mosque which were the most beautiful building around by far. Sometimes you could see 3 or 4 unique minarets at a time.
But also we saw where the trash goes...on the side of the tracks. We'd read and heard that Egyptians haven't figured out how to deal with their trash...we saw lots of evidence of that!!
We often rode along side wide ditches/tributaries. Some even had small ferries so they could be crossed. We could see they were being used for drainage and irrigation...saw two ladies washing clothes...and unfortunately trash bins. Many of them have been dredge but the ugly mess of trash & muck was left on the banks.
I especially relish seeing sights like kids playing with sticks & stones, soccer games, carts loaded with veges, old men sitting on benches, carpenters building furniture, crowded markets, school kids with their arms around each other, women hanging their laundry on their balconies...just a peek into the ordinary life of the Egyptians!
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About halfway, we started to see groups of 3 or 4 cows tied sporadically in lanes usually under a lone tree. The manure behind them was proof they'd been there quite some time. We'd see maybe 4 or 5 groups of cows down a lane. Saw a few flocks of sheep penned up.
Pigeon houses...large cone shaped with large holes...are common. Easy quick meals!
Small villages seemed to have turned into large cities with those same tall mundane brick apartment buildings topped with re-rods sticking out the top. The fewer the buildings, the more color we saw. . But still hardly any one family homes. Egypt has a population of almost 100 million so I guess they gotta live somewhere!
Everywhere mosque which were the most beautiful building around by far. Sometimes you could see 3 or 4 unique minarets at a time.
But also we saw where the trash goes...on the side of the tracks. We'd read and heard that Egyptians haven't figured out how to deal with their trash...we saw lots of evidence of that!!
We often rode along side wide ditches/tributaries. Some even had small ferries so they could be crossed. We could see they were being used for drainage and irrigation...saw two ladies washing clothes...and unfortunately trash bins. Many of them have been dredge but the ugly mess of trash & muck was left on the banks.
I especially relish seeing sights like kids playing with sticks & stones, soccer games, carts loaded with veges, old men sitting on benches, carpenters building furniture, crowded markets, school kids with their arms around each other, women hanging their laundry on their balconies...just a peek into the ordinary life of the Egyptians!
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Tuesday, February 26, 2019
Update 55
Each morning we take the elevator down from our nice hotel room on the 4th floor of this All Saints Conference Center and walk out onto the courtyard. And each morning I'm humbled at the sight before me. So many refugees. Dressed in bright colorful wraps & head dressings or long black tunics, some with niqab (face veil) or western clothes with dropping scarves or men in pants & jackets. Most are holding or watching little ones. Across the courtyard is the church and more refugees sit on its steps. I think to myself, "Now there's a church that hears & lives Jesus' message."
As I walk between them, I see their faces clearly. Their color tone varies between pitch black to a light toast color. Eyes also vary from sparkling to dull. Most smile at me...and again the color varies between bright white...to brownish...to gapping holes.
The smaller children are chasing each other, playing with stones or in a small pile of sand left-over from a construction project. Rog & I gravitate to them and offer balloons. Some hesitate but a mom/dad quickly comes over and tells them it's ok (I think anyways). Then they reach out & a smile escapes. Each smile enriches my life more. If we happened to miss seeing a child, s/he may wander over ...but never begs. His bravery is rewarded with a balloon.
I often stop and admire a small baby cradled in his mother's arms. Many times they offer me to hold the baby. I admire the wonderful beauty of each and every one. As they pull on my fingers & I smile at them, their little faces flash a smile back at me. I think how much better our world would be if faces of all shades just smiled at each other. As I hold the baby close, I pray that somehow this baby will find a way out of poverty and to a good future.
It's an incredible way to start the day. Hours later when I cross the courtyard again, I am pleased to see several balloons still being played with. I'm so thankful for the opportunity to share God's love here among the refugees.
I'm attaching a prayer my wise friend Sue Ivey sent me. It captures my thoughts & prayers.
For those who see home and all it means disappear behind them;
For those who cannot see a home in the days ahead of them.
For all those who dwell in daily insecurity,
For all those who are weary and without a safe place to rest their heads.
For all families in migration, we pray.
May the image of the Holy Family who also had the experience of fleeing oppression
Stay with us at this time
And stay with us each night
As we are blessed with returning to a home.
May we also be blessed
With compassion for those
Still weary, still seeking,
Still with so far to go.
As I walk between them, I see their faces clearly. Their color tone varies between pitch black to a light toast color. Eyes also vary from sparkling to dull. Most smile at me...and again the color varies between bright white...to brownish...to gapping holes.
The smaller children are chasing each other, playing with stones or in a small pile of sand left-over from a construction project. Rog & I gravitate to them and offer balloons. Some hesitate but a mom/dad quickly comes over and tells them it's ok (I think anyways). Then they reach out & a smile escapes. Each smile enriches my life more. If we happened to miss seeing a child, s/he may wander over ...but never begs. His bravery is rewarded with a balloon.
I often stop and admire a small baby cradled in his mother's arms. Many times they offer me to hold the baby. I admire the wonderful beauty of each and every one. As they pull on my fingers & I smile at them, their little faces flash a smile back at me. I think how much better our world would be if faces of all shades just smiled at each other. As I hold the baby close, I pray that somehow this baby will find a way out of poverty and to a good future.
It's an incredible way to start the day. Hours later when I cross the courtyard again, I am pleased to see several balloons still being played with. I'm so thankful for the opportunity to share God's love here among the refugees.
I'm attaching a prayer my wise friend Sue Ivey sent me. It captures my thoughts & prayers.
For those who see home and all it means disappear behind them;
For those who cannot see a home in the days ahead of them.
For all those who dwell in daily insecurity,
For all those who are weary and without a safe place to rest their heads.
For all families in migration, we pray.
May the image of the Holy Family who also had the experience of fleeing oppression
Stay with us at this time
And stay with us each night
As we are blessed with returning to a home.
May we also be blessed
With compassion for those
Still weary, still seeking,
Still with so far to go.
Update 54
We've been to the zoo where the thing that you do is....watch a multitude of domestic cats crawl in and out of the cages that held flamingoes, ducks, ostriches, etc.
Really...one made a duck his lunch! Unlike the aquarium, no animals were stuffed or pickled!
The Cairo Zoo reminded us of the US zoos about 50 years ago. Animals in small concrete floored cages. Also reminded us of why we quit going to zoos for a while. Though there was a decent number of species, usually only a few of each. We did see some hippos out of the water for the first time!!
We especially enjoyed watching many young Egyptian families having a splendid day. We didn't see any other foreigners there and since we were asked several times to be included in their photos...even had one couple sit their child between us & then take a photo...we got the idea that we were a rare breed on exhibit too!!
Really...one made a duck his lunch! Unlike the aquarium, no animals were stuffed or pickled!
The Cairo Zoo reminded us of the US zoos about 50 years ago. Animals in small concrete floored cages. Also reminded us of why we quit going to zoos for a while. Though there was a decent number of species, usually only a few of each. We did see some hippos out of the water for the first time!!
We especially enjoyed watching many young Egyptian families having a splendid day. We didn't see any other foreigners there and since we were asked several times to be included in their photos...even had one couple sit their child between us & then take a photo...we got the idea that we were a rare breed on exhibit too!!
Sunday, February 24, 2019
Update 53
I just love how often we just happen to be in the right place at the right time!
Take Thursday night....we were headed out for dinner around 7...a bit later than usual. As we approached the exit gate, one of the RE staff, Mr. Boka stopped us & said, "You gotta stay! There's going to be a Sudanese wedding here anytime!" Looking around we saw a decorated canopy in front of the church and a few dressed up people lingering around. Mr. Boka went on to tell us that the wedding was suppose to start at 5...yup 5...but the bride was coming in a limo and it was stuck in traffic. So, of course, we lingered too. About 7:10, we spotted the limo trying to turn down the narrow street leading to the church. It had to go back & forth until it was lined up straight on. Slowly it crawled toward the church barely missing the parked cars. The church opened the gate...but then 4 cars needed to be moved to make room for the limo. Finally around 7:30, the limo door open and 3 bridesmaids in deep red dresses stepped out...and then the bride lavishly dressed in a sparkling, laced, enormously full skirted white wedding dress with a long train!
I was trying to be discreet & get a few pictures. Several of the local maids that we'd gotten to know had gathered and kept urging me to get closer. By now, the groom & groomsmen had entered the elegantly decorated church. The musician was singing beautifully (later learned the real singer had not shown up so the staff tech person was filling in). The maids almost pushed me into the church & Rog followed begrudgingly saying, "We shouldn't!" But I said, "Why not?? When else are we going to get a chance to see a Sudanese wedding?"
So there we sat in our sweatshirts in the back row with 3 maids in their pinstriped uniforms. One of them got the giggles & another kept slugging her & frowning...which made me laugh...which made her giggle more...pretty soon all 4 of us were trying hard to control ourselves. Rog trying to ignore us.
Though I couldn't understand the words...it appeared to be similar to our weddings with vows & rings exchanged and then hands joined ...all the while the camera man's bright light in their faces. Similar except for as each part of the ceremony ended, the guest let out a loud, high pitched shrill call...maybe a tribal call??? It was a sound that pieced the air & one that sent shivers up my spine.
We snuck out before the end but got caught by a guest who'd also snuck out...he told us we must stay for the party. We told him we'd come by after we ate dinner.
So we came back maybe an hour later... and it was over...almost cleaned up. The whole wedding reception had disappeared...kinda like a Cinderella story!
Really...this happened...you just can't make up stories like this!!
Take Thursday night....we were headed out for dinner around 7...a bit later than usual. As we approached the exit gate, one of the RE staff, Mr. Boka stopped us & said, "You gotta stay! There's going to be a Sudanese wedding here anytime!" Looking around we saw a decorated canopy in front of the church and a few dressed up people lingering around. Mr. Boka went on to tell us that the wedding was suppose to start at 5...yup 5...but the bride was coming in a limo and it was stuck in traffic. So, of course, we lingered too. About 7:10, we spotted the limo trying to turn down the narrow street leading to the church. It had to go back & forth until it was lined up straight on. Slowly it crawled toward the church barely missing the parked cars. The church opened the gate...but then 4 cars needed to be moved to make room for the limo. Finally around 7:30, the limo door open and 3 bridesmaids in deep red dresses stepped out...and then the bride lavishly dressed in a sparkling, laced, enormously full skirted white wedding dress with a long train!
I was trying to be discreet & get a few pictures. Several of the local maids that we'd gotten to know had gathered and kept urging me to get closer. By now, the groom & groomsmen had entered the elegantly decorated church. The musician was singing beautifully (later learned the real singer had not shown up so the staff tech person was filling in). The maids almost pushed me into the church & Rog followed begrudgingly saying, "We shouldn't!" But I said, "Why not?? When else are we going to get a chance to see a Sudanese wedding?"
So there we sat in our sweatshirts in the back row with 3 maids in their pinstriped uniforms. One of them got the giggles & another kept slugging her & frowning...which made me laugh...which made her giggle more...pretty soon all 4 of us were trying hard to control ourselves. Rog trying to ignore us.
Though I couldn't understand the words...it appeared to be similar to our weddings with vows & rings exchanged and then hands joined ...all the while the camera man's bright light in their faces. Similar except for as each part of the ceremony ended, the guest let out a loud, high pitched shrill call...maybe a tribal call??? It was a sound that pieced the air & one that sent shivers up my spine.
We snuck out before the end but got caught by a guest who'd also snuck out...he told us we must stay for the party. We told him we'd come by after we ate dinner.
So we came back maybe an hour later... and it was over...almost cleaned up. The whole wedding reception had disappeared...kinda like a Cinderella story!
Really...this happened...you just can't make up stories like this!!
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