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Tuesday, March 9, 2010

We're back home

Back on US soil again...it feels good and immediately we expect that everything will work since we were back in familiar territory. Better think again! Travel home started on Friday morning with us getting up in Kolkata and having a quick breakfast with Chii, Katerina (from Slovakia and soon leaving for Darjeeling), Father Donald and others at BMS. Taxi to the airport then a two hour flight to Delhi...Himalayas in the distant north looked like low clouds on the horizon. Villages below appeared to be very close together with only a few fields separating one from the next. How else can 1,000,000,000 people fit in this country? Arriving in Delhi we were met by our driver who took us around to see a few more sights before arriving back at the travel office where we met up with the owner,Baljeet Singh, a Sikh. He had invited to his house for dinner. Baljeet introduced us to his daughter, Simron (14 and happy to practice her English with Jane). She brought cokes and tea then started bringing plates and dishes of food for us. Rice, dal, chick peas in spicy sauce, and sliced cucumber and tomato as well as raita (curd spiced with more onion and cucumber). For dessert there was a honey sweetened treat made from ground chick peas. Baljeet's wife stayed in the kitchen and appeared to be too shy to do more than smile and say "Hello" or was it just unacceptable for her to visit with the men and guests during the meal?. Baljeet's brother-in laws (Manj from New York and Tony from Delhi) were also visiting and we talked about conflict in the world and agreed that since war has been a constant in the hisory of the world and even though we hope for a better future there is little reason to believe it will change. Meanwhile, Jane and Simron went to another room to play with Simron's little cousin. She wants to be a fashion designer and when Jane asked if she thought that women in India will someday adopt western clothing as the men have, she said, "They don't wear sarees in America?"
Soon we were back on a plane chasing the night from Delhi to New York. Our flight left at 1 AM and arrived in NY at about 5 AM the same night/morning (early Saturday). We flew through the darkness for about 16 hours as we dozed, watched movies, read, ate three meals, and tracked our progress across Afghanistan, the Aral Sea, western Russia or Ukraine, Finland, Sweden, Norway, North of Iceland, across Greenland, Labrador, and finally the USA. It was a very long night...
Arriving in New York we were excited to be home and enjoy the comraderie of our fellow Americans and enjoy the luxuries that we now appreciate a bit more. One of the first Americans we met on the plane loudly complained about how she was sick of "all the Indians cutting in front of her all the time". She also generally described India as dirty and the people lazy. Did she not realize that most of the people around us were Indians that were fluent in English and were simply too polite to argue with her. We found her to be an ugly American and were not interested in being associated with her. This experience made us appreciate the Americans that we had met in Kolkata who were cut from different cloth.
After boarding the last plane for the flight to Detroit, our captain informed us that there was a problem with the flush handle on the toilet and management had decided that since it was unreasonable to expect the passengers to "hold it" for the one hour flight to Detroit the flight was being cancelled. Having just arrived from India where it was common to see busses held together with twine, overloaded transportation of all types, bamboo scaffolding constructed on the sides of high rise buildings, and leaking boats that were considered OK as long as water being bailed out was keeping up with water coming in...this toilet flush button didn't seem like it should be a big concern. But this is how it is in America. They put us up in the Sheraton and here I am using their computer and enjoying our accommodations at the expense of the airline that cancelled the flight. It is good to be home. Rog

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Final Thoughts from Roger:
India has been a great place to visit. There is so much history and beauty here, although we sometimes have to look past the dirt and grime to appreciate where we are. A land of contrasts that just don't seem to end.... Clear skies with hardly an airplane to be seen, but smoke and smog that often causes haze that limits our vision and makes it difficult for us to breathe. Beautiful and colorful women's clothing to be seen at all times day and night, but some of those same outfits being worn digging trenches alongside the road as the women also work construction jobs. Churches, mosques, and temples all claiming their spaces and offering conflicting belief systems. Children dressed neatly in uniforms going off to school in a taxi or rickshaw and passing naked children on the street that will probably never see the inside of a classroom. Filthy blankets and clothing belonging to street people who live just outside our hotel where we have a beautiful garden with blossoming flowers, hot showers and AC. Nice, comfortable and smooth Metro (subway) but when you get off you can ride in a rickshaw pulled by a barefoot man sharing the road with buses, taxis, motorcycles, bicycles, tuk-tuks, goats and cows.

Probably the most refreshing thing about India is the welcome that we have felt everywhere we have traveled. All seem ready to help with directions and most people smile and act very agreeable. Just this morning I saw two children (probably siblings) fighting as we got off of a ferry that had brought us across the river. The boy had the girl by the hair and appeared to be very angry with her. Adults nearby appeared to be concerned and ready to assist if necessary. This aggression was very unusual to see and it made me realize how seldom we have seen any conflict here. Pretty amazing in a city of some 15,000,000 people. I think they somehow realize that if they don't make efforts to get along with each other the whole system cannot survive. Maybe that is what we are also learning about the entire world as we rub shoulders with Yoshi from Hiroshima (when I met him and he told me where he was from I said, "I'm so sorry about what happened there". Then we met Chii from Denmark (a Viet Nam refugee) and again I felt that I needed to say "Sorry about what happened in your homeland". Have we really done enough to try to get along with the rest of the world? Why are so often involved in conflicts? Can our world survive if America doesn't make a greater effort? I'm not really sure what that might look like but I'm pretty sure that it doesn't look like guns and bombs.

Another refreshing thing about being here has been getting to know the boys at Daya Dan. Here in the midst of great poverty and pollution is a mission where handicapped boys (1st floor)and girls (3rd floor) are cared for in a loving atmosphere and stimulated with the help of volunteers from all over the world. I had the fortune to meet and care for many of the kids there. Bernard, with legs badly twisted and incapable of supporting him, always had a big smile and would unfailingly ask "Book?" and often I would sit beside him to read. Rakesh, also unable to walk, usually had a story to tell (often with many embellishments so I didn't know what to believe) and Rahul, who could walk with a slight limp, was very capable and eager to learn, assumed many resposibilities and liked to have us think he ran the place. I was nearly convinced until he got put in his place by Sister Jonava for using a book without permission! Joakim, Joy, Ankur, Dilip and Anand-all with problems but just the same kids that love to laugh, play with balloons, eat ice cream, and play catch even if that means rolling a tennis ball to one another on the floor(this was Bernard's favorite thing to do because he could actually trap the ball between his legs if it rolled up to him slowly and he could even throw the ball. If the ball rolled slightly out of his reach he would laugh so hard that he would tip over and wouldn't be able to sit up again without help. This always made him laugh even more!).

As great as the kids are I have to admit that I really did not expect to meet people here from so many different countries of the world. Each morning we would meet at Mother Teresa's Mission (just a minute or two from our hotel) for breakfast and visit with other volunteers who have come to help. Ususally there were 75-125 volunteers and soon we were striking up conversations and learning about each other. It really was amazing how it seemed that everyone had come with a giving heart and I felt that all were good peole to know. Our final evening will be spent at Blue Sky Restaurant on Sudder Street sharing a meal with many of the friends that we have made while here in Kolkata. Some will visit us in the states and we look forward to seeing them again whenever the opporunity may arise. Sayaka from Osaka, Japan had just met us a day or so before it was time for us to say goodbye. I didn't even know her name and she didn't know mine but when I told her it was our last day she started to get teary and fanned her face. She apologized and said she will miss us! I laughingly said, "You just met us!" "But, I will miss your smile", she replied. And I will miss hers as well.

Final Thoughts from Jane:
Did my mom know when she taught me the Prayer of St. Francis of Assisi that it would some day make me realize I was destined to come to Mother Teresa's in Kolkata. That prayer hung in my childhood home, today in my bedroom and over Mother Teresa's tomb. I leave knowing I made little difference to most here who need so much...but also knowing Roger and I did bring a bit of love and happiness to a few...Dilip, Bernard, Rakesh, Mukul, Rahul, Joakim, Prince, Anamitia, Bovita, Maya, Shoba and probably one of the last smiles for Mita and Paruiti. And for that...and much more...I feel privileged and thankful.
Hi all,
Soon we'll be home and hopefully, seeing many of you!!
I'm trying to get it all on paper before we leave tomorrow as I know memories fade and I want to capture them while still very vivid in my mind. So here it goes:
Train Ride:
One free day (Thursday is the free day), we went to Howrah Station , asked around a bit, then hopped a train to Shantinikitan which is about 3 hours away--round trip tickets for two cost 212 Rs. (about $4.50)!! Soon we were passing rice paddies, mustard fields and livestock. Shantinikitan was founded by Tagore, beloved poet, who won the first Nobel Prize for India. He set up a university with outside classrooms and buildings with many windows and varying rooftops so one could enjoy the sky from all roof decks. He was Gandhi's friend also. On the way home, a man insisted his young nephew should shake our hands as we were the first foreigners he'd seen. Another lady wanted her baby to touch us and another had her 5 year old son count to 100 for us. Celebrities!!
Singing:
Sofia loves music. At Kalighat, she had many patients singing while trying to teach her a Bengali song. On the bus one day, she led us singing, "Whenever I wake up...before I put on my make up...I say a little prayer for you!" Tom wanted to go down the aisle asking for rupies...often little kids jump on the bus, sing and then ask for rupies...so why not???
Vendors -Part 2:
I had been wondering why there were so many vendors with so little to sell and always in miniature packages. Duh!!! The vendors can't afford more inventory and their customers are living hand-to-mouth so they can't buy more than a day's supply.
Ornate Gates:
As we ride the bus past streets crowded with "normal sights," every once in a while, we'll go by a tall wall. If we keep our eyes on that wall, soon we'll see an ornate gate and then get a short glimpse of how the rich live here: fancy white houses surrounded by lovely gardens and protected by guards. Strangest thing is, the homeless use those same walls to erect their tarps over their campsites. In this case, the grass is definitely greener on the other side of the wall!!
Chi:
Chi just graduated from medical school and before she starts full time work, she wanted to help at Mother Teresa's. She is always cheerful and friendly. She knew we were Americans and we asked where she was from...and without any anger or resentment, she told us she was a Viet Nam refugee. Her family had fled to Denmark when she was a baby. So once again, we felt like apologizing. This time we did say sorry for the war that caused your country so much pain. How many more wars will we feel necessary??
Neighbors:
Here's a strange set of neighbors: right next Mother Teresa's House is a Communist building with a portrait of Lenin and proudly flying the Communist flag. That's India!
Mommy and Daddy:
It seems we have adopted many along the way as they call us Mommy and Daddy and look to us for a bandaid, koolaid, peanut butter or just a hug: Noor, Sofia, Tom, Jake, Maria, Melissa and Crystal. Guess being the oldest around is nice sometimes.

Things we've seen more on the street of Kolkata than anywhere we've ever been:
people, black hair, black eyes, rickshaws, men wrapped in towels, spitting, peeing, vendors, flip flops, trash, bangles (bracelet indicating married), nursing dogs, homeless campsites, barber shops, men being shaved, torn up sidewalks, shrines, cooking over chulas (small charcoal grill), nose picking, ornate ear rings, yellow & gold marigolds, beautifully dressed women, begging, people sleeping anywhere & everywhere, taxis, buses...and more people...all to the sounds of horns blaring.
Daya Dan's Send Off:
The other volunteers, Sister and kids escorted us up to a large room and had us sit down. Then Binoy (autistic and rather poorly behaved boy) began to play the drums with expertise and vigor as all joined in singing "Drummer Boy" and then "We Thank You, We Love You, We'll Miss You, Come Back Someday." What a moving and proud time for us...and Binoy!!