Update #3
Mate de Coca Tea
While we waited for our taxi, Jane went in search of a Diet Coke while the rest drank yet another cup of Mate de Coca--an ammenity our hotel provides. It is suppose to help us deal with the 11,000 ft altitude of Cusco. Since it’s made from cocaine leaves, it may also be why we’ve been so happy here in Cusco! Jane did find her d. coke but the lady in the store insisted she also take a bag filled with --yup--Mate de Coca!
On the way to Ollantaytambo
We crammed into a taxi--think of sardines-and headed to our next destination--Ollantaytambo. It was two hours of white knuckles and speed bumps. At least at the speed bumps we could take pictures. We raced through several small villages where the house were made of adobe and by corn fields. Somehow the cows on the side of the road knew not to move even an inch closer. The mountain sides were crisscrossed with sheep and goat trails. Since it’s rainy season, everything is a shade of green. Gorgeous!
In Search of Our Hotel
Though our driver had the address of our hotel in Ollantaytambo, when we arrived, he asked for directions. He got lots of blank looks, several head shakes and a few who pointed up the hill. So up we went...the cobblestone road getting narrower and the walls of the houses on either side getting closer. We came to a rock in the middle of the road so Rog got out and directed the driver. He had about 6” of clearance. About then several dogs began to snarl at us. A broken down 3 wheeled tuk tuk stopped us. We started backing down the hill. Finally, we saw a flag at the bottom of a long stairway. We stopped and sure enough, we'd found it. I don't know who was happier, us or our
driver! It was more than worth the effort to find it. It was a gem! Tucked in the side of the bank of a stream with a panoramic view of the Inca fortress ruins high on the mountains across from us! We wondered if we’d gone over one of the cliffs on the road--and were now in heaven. Our room was built around rocks & even had a tree truck which had new shoots coming out of it. We sat on the lawn chairs in front in awe.
Checking out the Ruins
Just a few block from our hotel was the path that led to some ruins. The path was crude with loose rocks with barely room for two feet...but that didn’t stop us. We explored and admired the ruins and wondered how & why the Inc built so far up the mountain. Elsi did find a great spot part way up to sit and soak it all in.
Dining with a View
We happened upon a spot to eat that had a balcony overlooking the village square. We watched all the local happenings as we ate. Bob & Rog had “poor man’s” steak--big, paper thin and tough as cardboard. When the waiter brought the corn soup, he called it “mice supa”--it was lots better than it’s name implied!
A group from Chile sat next to us and we chatted. They told us that many S. American countries strongly held on to their ancient tradition but also added new ones brought to them by the Spanish and now immigrants. Example: on top of most homes you see the Spanish cross with sacred bulls on each side.
At one point we discovered that they were all musicians. That made Elsli excited! One was the conductor for the National Symphonic Orchestra of Chile, another the concert master on violin. Two were partially deaf. Another great find!
Correction: Mindo chocolate factory I wrote about earlier is in Dexter (not AnnArbor).
Up to the Ollantaytambo Ruins
The next day, Rog & Elsi bought walking sticks and then we were ready to tackle the higher ruins we’d been just looking at from our window! Up, up, up we went marveling at the precise placement of huge rocks fitting together like a jigsaw puzzle. There were dozens of terraces with water channels used for farming and rooms & paths with alcoves probably for torches to light the way. Around every bend, a view that hypnotized you! We spent about two hours just gawking. We didn’t really want to come down, but it was almost lunch time...
Multi-tasking
While we were coming down, Elsi was telling us how to say "right" in Spanish, when she stumbled and let out a scream--which caused Jane to scream. After we'd calmed down, a couple walking by told Elsi she should try to practice her Spanish while she was walking! That made us all chuckle.
