Today we visited the Tanji Village museum. It included some examples of local plants, trees, crafts and a replica of an early center village…actually not much different than some that we've seen here now. There were several hides, mounted butterflies & insects and snake skins—all with a thick layer of dust. Most telling was an older poster with silhouettes of mammals in Gambia showing the past (many), present (15 or so) and future (5). Looking at it & thinking about what we've seen, I said to our guide…looks like you're already in the future. He sadly agreed. He said the gov't says they can't cut trees & brush on lots of the land but made a contract with the Chinese to buy lumber. Habitat is disappearing quickly. As in other places in Gambia, everything at this museum was in poor condition or non-existence. Our guide told us what use to be there. His 3 year old son was following us around to we gave him a balloon. He happily played with it as we sat down to listen to two drummers play for us with gusto. Eventually, the little boy sat between the drummers and with our encouragement, he too beat on the drum. He'll be playing soon! It was a good way to end our visit there. Considering what we've seen & heard, we decided to not go to Abuko Nat'l Park.
We came back to our Airbnb, hung our clothesline and soon had our wash drying. We read & played cards and then Rog went out front to get a beer and soon was off looking for a pig…
Here's his story:
I went with Lamin to look for a pig to be prepared in the kitchen here. After asking around a nearby community, he found some locals who led us through their garden to a shed that housed about 15 pigs. Lamin is a Muslim and does not eat pork, but he is fine with buying pigs from the Christians who raise them. He bought one for 6000 dalasi (about $100 US). They feed the pigs leftover food from restaurants. The garden was full of wonja and it was harvest time. The whole family was involved with picking, trimming, or carrying the crop to their house. It will take days to complete the job.
German food in The Gambia for dinner!
We are encouraged to ask for any dish we like so Why not kniffles?
Mirama told us that the area of Germany where she came from calls them spaetzle and she cuts the dough into boiling water. Along with goulash (beef in a spicy sauce) and cooked red cabbage it felt like we might be in Germany, or home.😀
We have had delicious food here! Yesterday we had hamburgers & French fries and I drank a Coke. Felt a bit like I was back home! We spent much of the day planning our trip to Morocco—just a couple weeks away. I wrote to Mariame from Morocco who we met in the Philippines and ask if we could meet up & if she had any advice. She wrote back and for the next hour bombarded us with advice and excitement about meeting up! How fun. We got lucky and were able to contact: Shan, Claire, Reagan, Bekah, Addie, David and Noah! What a treat! Later today we're headed closer to Banjul.
I did want to record a conversation we had with our German host which was similar to what our local driver told us. Gambia is seeing an increase in kids attending Muslim's schools where basically only the Koran is taught. More girls are covering their heads. These schools are being built & kids sponsored by people in Saudi Arabia. Students are being denied a full education and being held captive by their religion—the outcome Saudi Arabia is seeking. If true, it's another sad scenario.
Friday, February 10, 2023
Wednesday, February 8, 2023
Gambia #11
We moved on toward Banjul so we could check out a few other suggested sites. We're in an Airbnb near Tujereng. It's run by a German lady who's a great cook. She seemed delighted to serve us potato salad and ham on a huge plate soon after we arrived. The many monkeys around are kept away by her dogs. It's quiet and peaceful.
Here's Roger's thoughts:
"Kachadulaa Garden 2/7/22
The German lady who owns this place used to be a cook on a ship for East Germans. She learned to cook very well because they told her they would throw her over the side if the food was bad. A joke, I hope!
She (Mariama) came here after living for some time in Sweden, but now considers Gambia her home. Her friend, Carrie, lives a short distance away and comes to help with the kitchen work and waits tables. There are often many Europeans here for evening meals as Mariama is a great cook and offers dishes that are not commonly available here. Chicken Schnitzel, Ribeye steak, potato salad, etc.
Visiting with them we found that Carrie is in Gambia because she was being pressed to be vaccinated in Sweden and chose to leave rather than comply. She seems very content with her life here.
Mariama walks with a limp and says that she came here because the weather here allows her to move without pain. She has a Gambian husband and has no plan to return to Europe.
Her Gambian husband, Lamin, once took the back way to Europe and nearly died. They told us of their concerns for the future of Gambia….
"The children just want to use the phones and take pictures and see how people elsewhere are living. That encourages them to leave Gambia by taking the back way to Europe. They have no respect for their parents and don't listen to them because their parents cannot even read or write or even use a phone. The kids think they can find all answers using their phones. No need for education. So many young people have left Gambia that there are not enough to grow food…much land is idle."
It was a depressing view that we can only hope is not accurate."
Our second day here, a driver picked us up and first we ask to stop at an ATM. First two didn't work. While pulling up to another nearby one, a police office same over & started demanding something from our driver. A heated five minute argument followed. Our driver told us to get out and try the ATM while he sorted out the problem at the nearby police station. With a bit of help from the ATM attendant, we successes in getting money. Not long after, we spotted our driver who said all was well—the police captain knew him so no problem. As he said, Gambia is a small country and it doesn't take long to find someone you know. Evidently the fact that he and Rog did not have their seatbelt on between our ATM stops, was the problem. Cracks me up as you can see people hanging out the back of vans, riding on top of truck loads, piled on donkey carts…and they stop you for no seatbelt!
So we headed to Makasutu—which the guide book called a Cultural Forest. It too—like so much of what we've seen is past it's prime—even though it only opened 30 years ago. Most of what we were suppose to see wasn't there anymore. Two steps forward. One & a half back. That seems to be the reality here. They blame it on Covid but by the looks of things…Covid only added a bit to the backward direction. We took a boat ride through the mangroves & saw a few birds. Watched a man climb to the top of a palm tree to tap it for juice. A buffet lunch of African food was served…mostly cold but Rog liked it. While we ate, musicians played & one danced. Always tips are expected: boat paddles, climber, musicians, guide & driver. Adds up but it's the way workers here get their pay. We're told only gov't jobs have wages. Only the baboons who surrounded us while we ate didn't ask for tips!
Here's Roger's thoughts:
"Kachadulaa Garden 2/7/22
The German lady who owns this place used to be a cook on a ship for East Germans. She learned to cook very well because they told her they would throw her over the side if the food was bad. A joke, I hope!
She (Mariama) came here after living for some time in Sweden, but now considers Gambia her home. Her friend, Carrie, lives a short distance away and comes to help with the kitchen work and waits tables. There are often many Europeans here for evening meals as Mariama is a great cook and offers dishes that are not commonly available here. Chicken Schnitzel, Ribeye steak, potato salad, etc.
Visiting with them we found that Carrie is in Gambia because she was being pressed to be vaccinated in Sweden and chose to leave rather than comply. She seems very content with her life here.
Mariama walks with a limp and says that she came here because the weather here allows her to move without pain. She has a Gambian husband and has no plan to return to Europe.
Her Gambian husband, Lamin, once took the back way to Europe and nearly died. They told us of their concerns for the future of Gambia….
"The children just want to use the phones and take pictures and see how people elsewhere are living. That encourages them to leave Gambia by taking the back way to Europe. They have no respect for their parents and don't listen to them because their parents cannot even read or write or even use a phone. The kids think they can find all answers using their phones. No need for education. So many young people have left Gambia that there are not enough to grow food…much land is idle."
It was a depressing view that we can only hope is not accurate."
Our second day here, a driver picked us up and first we ask to stop at an ATM. First two didn't work. While pulling up to another nearby one, a police office same over & started demanding something from our driver. A heated five minute argument followed. Our driver told us to get out and try the ATM while he sorted out the problem at the nearby police station. With a bit of help from the ATM attendant, we successes in getting money. Not long after, we spotted our driver who said all was well—the police captain knew him so no problem. As he said, Gambia is a small country and it doesn't take long to find someone you know. Evidently the fact that he and Rog did not have their seatbelt on between our ATM stops, was the problem. Cracks me up as you can see people hanging out the back of vans, riding on top of truck loads, piled on donkey carts…and they stop you for no seatbelt!
So we headed to Makasutu—which the guide book called a Cultural Forest. It too—like so much of what we've seen is past it's prime—even though it only opened 30 years ago. Most of what we were suppose to see wasn't there anymore. Two steps forward. One & a half back. That seems to be the reality here. They blame it on Covid but by the looks of things…Covid only added a bit to the backward direction. We took a boat ride through the mangroves & saw a few birds. Watched a man climb to the top of a palm tree to tap it for juice. A buffet lunch of African food was served…mostly cold but Rog liked it. While we ate, musicians played & one danced. Always tips are expected: boat paddles, climber, musicians, guide & driver. Adds up but it's the way workers here get their pay. We're told only gov't jobs have wages. Only the baboons who surrounded us while we ate didn't ask for tips!
Gambia #10
Paradise Beach…very appropriately named. Next to turquoise waves and a flat solid beach surface easy to walk on. Sand is fine, barely tan & mixed with tiny diamonds that sparkle. In the distance you have a view of Sanyang fishing village. Only a few other have found this gorgeous place. Breakfast is anytime; coffee, eggs & bread. We order a meal around 2 which is delicious fresh fish. We read and listen to pod cast while lying on the beach under palm trees. Occasionally, local girls will come to sell fruit which we enjoy later with our pb sandwiches. The girls often plop down besides us and chat…giving them a rest & shade and us a chance to hear about their lives and dreams. They play with my hair…so opposite of theirs. Young men on the beach play soccer, exercise and run. When I asked why they exercise, they tell me they want to build strong bodies which will helps their brains, give them longer lives and maybe a chance to win $$ at soccer. I listen to their many hopes and dreams…and worry for them. On the weekend, several large groups lugged grills, food, drinks, radios, speakers, drums and babies to the beach ready to party! No one swims but many play in the waves and take selfies. Their drumming and music sills the air until late. Surprisingly there seems to be no ocean spray & few mosquitoes. Five days here was a bit of Paradise!
Gambia #9
From Roger's pen:
We have been thinking about the economy here. Many people survive by selling vegetables or small items to their neighbors. They would love having the opportunity to get a good job. Improving the Gambian economy might be disastrous for the people and their culture.
If the country were to be modernized, it would mean better transportation, health care, education, more employment, industry, infrastructure, etc.
It would also bring addtional pollution and other problems that come with modernization. Likely their culture would suffer, tribal values may lose importance, and languages would change or disappear.
As the question of modernization looms, many Gambians have seen the possibility of a better life. They have decided to take "the back way to Europe" in search of opportunity, because they don't find it here.
They sail North along the coast in a desperate attempt for a better life, but often the boat does not reach its destination and is lost.
If they miraculously do reach Europe, the problems of proper identification, visa, etc. may still derail their plans.
Nearly everyone here knows several who have taken "the back way"…never to be heard from again.
We have been thinking about the economy here. Many people survive by selling vegetables or small items to their neighbors. They would love having the opportunity to get a good job. Improving the Gambian economy might be disastrous for the people and their culture.
If the country were to be modernized, it would mean better transportation, health care, education, more employment, industry, infrastructure, etc.
It would also bring addtional pollution and other problems that come with modernization. Likely their culture would suffer, tribal values may lose importance, and languages would change or disappear.
As the question of modernization looms, many Gambians have seen the possibility of a better life. They have decided to take "the back way to Europe" in search of opportunity, because they don't find it here.
They sail North along the coast in a desperate attempt for a better life, but often the boat does not reach its destination and is lost.
If they miraculously do reach Europe, the problems of proper identification, visa, etc. may still derail their plans.
Nearly everyone here knows several who have taken "the back way"…never to be heard from again.
Saturday, February 4, 2023
Gambia #8
Up early and headed toward Georgetown. Buba and Miriana are quite a pair teasing each other and laughing all the time. Buba said, "If you're looking for trouble, you will have it with a Gambian woman." Miriana says Buba is a naughty boy…but a good dancer. They told us some of their tribe traditions. Buba is Fula. His 5 yr old son recently got circumcised and there was a huge celebration.. He then took him to a month-long school with 10 other newly circumcised boys. They will lay quietly with loose clothing for days listening to rules about proper behavior…especially respecting others. They won't bath while there. He says his son cries a lot but he calls him every day and looks forward to him coming home with good manners. Miriana tells us how important family is to her Mandinka tribe (& other tribes). They live together in compounds with wives joining their husband's. It's illegal to marry before 18. A man can marry up to 4 wives & he is careful not to favor one. He stays with a different one each week and that week she cooks lunch for the entire compound. Works for them!
About 11, we pulled off the main road & into a Fula family compound with. Mud houses/thatched roof, well, outdoor fire cooking area and no electricity. A pile of kids rushed out to meet us and soon surrounded us. We were escorted into a home which was filled with beds made of ceiba seed fiber. There was a woman pounding couscous to loosen the husk and be made into porridge for breakfast, a man who'd purchased a large bag of sugar & was making small bags for resale. Buying one day supply of most everything is all most can afford. Another made with a baby on her lap was shelling peanuts. She gave us a big bag & we slipped her some $$. Being Fula, she had decorative marks burned on her face & lots of earrings. Miriana brought out a bag of suckers & cookies and was mobbed as she passed them out. When that excitement died down, I blew up a ballon and tossed it up. The wind carried it & the kids chased it hitting it back up when it came down. Hearing that they would get no education made me a bit sad but how would it change their culture if they did? Is it right to think that would be best for them? Miriana says education is better than gold or silver.
Our next stop was Wassu round stone circles. Basically a grave for past chiefs. We drove on passing many broken down vehicles on the side of the road, meeting big trucks from Senegal and over loaded taxi vans. Amazing how high they stacked the loads on top. One even had two goats on it! When we arrived at River Gambia Nat'l Park, we braved the rickety dock to climb into a boat and head to Bamboo Island where chimpanzees are being relocated. We saw a few of those big boys up in the trees. We made a quick turn-around when we spotted 6 hippos. Bigger boys! We gave them plenty of space to put on a show for us. Buba teased Miriana saying we say 7. She got him back later saying he had chicken muscles. We continued east turning off just before Georgetown. The road was barely a driveway with massive holes & overgrown brush. Where were we going?? Monkeys greeted us as mud huts came into view. Our hotel. Even more scarce. No electricity. No water. We watched the monkey's antics for a bit and visited with a couple from Holland. They had spent the day visiting the family the man had lived with 30 years ago through Peace Corp. He was a U of M grad! They started cooking supper but since I'd been fighting a cold, I just ate a piece of bread with my peanut butter & crashed. For breakfast, they had fresh donut holes which were delicious & omelets. We fed the monkeys some peanuts & slowly made our way back to the main road. The ferry to Georgetown was close by so that's where we went. Georgetown is an island city. So many others with bags of stuff bought or ready to sell at the market. Horses, donkeys, goats & sheep mingled with women dressed so colorfully & elegantly many with babies tied around their waist. When the ferry arrived, Buba drove on & then all the passengers loaded. A short ride & we were there…right next to the building where slaves were held & sold. A guide led us down into a dungeon & told the story. Here they were for 14 days, chained if aggressive, a hole dug to low tide sea level used as water source. During high tide the water & all their waste was up to their chest. Food was shoveled down holes at the top. More than half died & were fed to the crocodiles. Those who survived were weighed & that determined price. Women's tits were squeezed for firmness. Teeth were examined. The purchased slaves were loaded on boats where another half would die. Slaves from Africa were more valuable because of their strength. Slaves from India were much weaker. Of course we knew this story….but sitting in the dungeon with the great grandson of someone who'd probably been there was a chilling experience. Letter we would talk to Buba & Miriana about it. They said what is past is past. Africans were to blame as well. They captured people from other tribes to sell for tea, metal, jewelry and mirrors. Mirrors to admire themselves in. How sad. They said in a way, there are still slaves today as nephews are often made to work for uncles without pay.
A little ways down the road, we came to the first Methodist church in sub- Sahara Africa planted in 1824. Nothing impressive. Actually the sign was rusty, bent over and barely readable. But it gave me a warm feeling the Methodist love reached this island where such deployable acts took place. It also made me sad the my own Methodist church has chosen to split from that founding church. A school was built in 1927 for the sons of chiefs and later others. The boss of our tour is currently building a huge hotel/conference center here in Georgetown so we stopped to see it. Such a huge dream1. Big restaurants on the roof top, elegant stairway & a pool. He plans to encourage boat trips from Banjul to here on mini cruise ships. You look around at all the crumbling, undeveloped surroundings and wonder, how is this dream going to be a reality???
We had a long ways to go so we made few stops but talked lots…about even politics and religion as freely as anything else. Gambia just ousted a president who'd ruled for over so yrs who was actually doing lots of good things like paved road, bridges, more women rights, better litter control (which they desperately need)—but at the expense of freedom. Many people just disappeared. No one felt they could disagree with anything. Senegal armed forces were invited to protect the president's home region where green flags flew everywhere in his support. He made it known he wanted to be named king & have his family continue reigning. He didn't accept the election results & was forced to flee the country. The new president is not getting as much done but the people are much happier. Gambia is mostly a Muslim country & every town has a mosque & you can her them calling people to pray 5 times a day. Many kids go to Muslim schools where they mostly just learn the Koran. Muslims don't drink alcohol so that eliminates lots of problems. Miriana's take on Christians vs Muslims: One God. Same. Same.
The country that surrounds them, Senegal is called a sister country and they have the same 7 or so tribes. Borders between them is open as most have family on both sides. Senegal is more developed.
We were getting close to where we'd booked an Airbnb so Miriana tried the contact number we were given. After several calls & a bit of arguing, she finally got it the right person with the right directions. Again we took what was barely a driveway quite a distance in search of our Airbnb. Actually found it…on a gorgeous beach. The caretaker hadn't got the message we were coming until a bit before we arrived and had no room vacant. He quickly re-did their store room that was almost finished.A bed, couch, table & chairs soon appeared and walla—a room for us for the next 5 days. toilet, Wi-Fi, water are usually working so we're happy. We were served almost cold cokes & since we had some left over bread, we ate pb sandwich & welcomed a most softer bed!!
About 11, we pulled off the main road & into a Fula family compound with. Mud houses/thatched roof, well, outdoor fire cooking area and no electricity. A pile of kids rushed out to meet us and soon surrounded us. We were escorted into a home which was filled with beds made of ceiba seed fiber. There was a woman pounding couscous to loosen the husk and be made into porridge for breakfast, a man who'd purchased a large bag of sugar & was making small bags for resale. Buying one day supply of most everything is all most can afford. Another made with a baby on her lap was shelling peanuts. She gave us a big bag & we slipped her some $$. Being Fula, she had decorative marks burned on her face & lots of earrings. Miriana brought out a bag of suckers & cookies and was mobbed as she passed them out. When that excitement died down, I blew up a ballon and tossed it up. The wind carried it & the kids chased it hitting it back up when it came down. Hearing that they would get no education made me a bit sad but how would it change their culture if they did? Is it right to think that would be best for them? Miriana says education is better than gold or silver.
Our next stop was Wassu round stone circles. Basically a grave for past chiefs. We drove on passing many broken down vehicles on the side of the road, meeting big trucks from Senegal and over loaded taxi vans. Amazing how high they stacked the loads on top. One even had two goats on it! When we arrived at River Gambia Nat'l Park, we braved the rickety dock to climb into a boat and head to Bamboo Island where chimpanzees are being relocated. We saw a few of those big boys up in the trees. We made a quick turn-around when we spotted 6 hippos. Bigger boys! We gave them plenty of space to put on a show for us. Buba teased Miriana saying we say 7. She got him back later saying he had chicken muscles. We continued east turning off just before Georgetown. The road was barely a driveway with massive holes & overgrown brush. Where were we going?? Monkeys greeted us as mud huts came into view. Our hotel. Even more scarce. No electricity. No water. We watched the monkey's antics for a bit and visited with a couple from Holland. They had spent the day visiting the family the man had lived with 30 years ago through Peace Corp. He was a U of M grad! They started cooking supper but since I'd been fighting a cold, I just ate a piece of bread with my peanut butter & crashed. For breakfast, they had fresh donut holes which were delicious & omelets. We fed the monkeys some peanuts & slowly made our way back to the main road. The ferry to Georgetown was close by so that's where we went. Georgetown is an island city. So many others with bags of stuff bought or ready to sell at the market. Horses, donkeys, goats & sheep mingled with women dressed so colorfully & elegantly many with babies tied around their waist. When the ferry arrived, Buba drove on & then all the passengers loaded. A short ride & we were there…right next to the building where slaves were held & sold. A guide led us down into a dungeon & told the story. Here they were for 14 days, chained if aggressive, a hole dug to low tide sea level used as water source. During high tide the water & all their waste was up to their chest. Food was shoveled down holes at the top. More than half died & were fed to the crocodiles. Those who survived were weighed & that determined price. Women's tits were squeezed for firmness. Teeth were examined. The purchased slaves were loaded on boats where another half would die. Slaves from Africa were more valuable because of their strength. Slaves from India were much weaker. Of course we knew this story….but sitting in the dungeon with the great grandson of someone who'd probably been there was a chilling experience. Letter we would talk to Buba & Miriana about it. They said what is past is past. Africans were to blame as well. They captured people from other tribes to sell for tea, metal, jewelry and mirrors. Mirrors to admire themselves in. How sad. They said in a way, there are still slaves today as nephews are often made to work for uncles without pay.
A little ways down the road, we came to the first Methodist church in sub- Sahara Africa planted in 1824. Nothing impressive. Actually the sign was rusty, bent over and barely readable. But it gave me a warm feeling the Methodist love reached this island where such deployable acts took place. It also made me sad the my own Methodist church has chosen to split from that founding church. A school was built in 1927 for the sons of chiefs and later others. The boss of our tour is currently building a huge hotel/conference center here in Georgetown so we stopped to see it. Such a huge dream1. Big restaurants on the roof top, elegant stairway & a pool. He plans to encourage boat trips from Banjul to here on mini cruise ships. You look around at all the crumbling, undeveloped surroundings and wonder, how is this dream going to be a reality???
We had a long ways to go so we made few stops but talked lots…about even politics and religion as freely as anything else. Gambia just ousted a president who'd ruled for over so yrs who was actually doing lots of good things like paved road, bridges, more women rights, better litter control (which they desperately need)—but at the expense of freedom. Many people just disappeared. No one felt they could disagree with anything. Senegal armed forces were invited to protect the president's home region where green flags flew everywhere in his support. He made it known he wanted to be named king & have his family continue reigning. He didn't accept the election results & was forced to flee the country. The new president is not getting as much done but the people are much happier. Gambia is mostly a Muslim country & every town has a mosque & you can her them calling people to pray 5 times a day. Many kids go to Muslim schools where they mostly just learn the Koran. Muslims don't drink alcohol so that eliminates lots of problems. Miriana's take on Christians vs Muslims: One God. Same. Same.
The country that surrounds them, Senegal is called a sister country and they have the same 7 or so tribes. Borders between them is open as most have family on both sides. Senegal is more developed.
We were getting close to where we'd booked an Airbnb so Miriana tried the contact number we were given. After several calls & a bit of arguing, she finally got it the right person with the right directions. Again we took what was barely a driveway quite a distance in search of our Airbnb. Actually found it…on a gorgeous beach. The caretaker hadn't got the message we were coming until a bit before we arrived and had no room vacant. He quickly re-did their store room that was almost finished.A bed, couch, table & chairs soon appeared and walla—a room for us for the next 5 days. toilet, Wi-Fi, water are usually working so we're happy. We were served almost cold cokes & since we had some left over bread, we ate pb sandwich & welcomed a most softer bed!!
Thursday, February 2, 2023
Gambia #7
Our truly cultural adventure began on Monday at 7 am. Buba, our driver picked us up and soon we picked up Miriana who was our guide. She was chocked full of information which she freely & rapidly shared with us as we drove along the main E-W road which was only paved 8 yrs ago. It was very smooth sailing except for slowing down for speed bumps, Irish crossings (valley built in road), town barricades (tires & anything resembling a gate), police stops, military stops with weapons showing, donkey carts and cattle, goats & people crossing the road. We drove through many congested market areas later stopping at Farafenni Market just to immerse ourselves into that experience. We passed lots of mango, orange & baobab trees and though they had huge bundles of sticks and piles of bags stuffed with charcoal made from wood, Mariana was quick to note that Gambia know the value of trees and there were many rules about cutting them. Most irons have an opening to put hot charcoal in. The rice and peanut fields are dormant now and used for grazing cattle and goats. In the rainy season they will flourish. Peanuts & fish are the main export crops. We arrived at Tendaba camp around 11, settled into our pretty sparse rooms & ate some breakfast left in the buffet. Then we climbed into the back of a 3 wheeler with a box behind for seats. A guide from Tendaba joined us and we got jostled about for almost an hour before arriving to a water hole in Kiang West Nat'l Park. We soon heard bamboos parking & then saw a large family in the distance. We headed to another water hole where we saw a herd of bush hogs. As we walked around, we scared up an antelope. Another bumpy ride back and I could hardly walk to my bed. Not sure I'd recommend that safari to anyone. Lunch was fried chicken/ff for me & yassa for Rog. Around 5, the Tendaba tide met us and we climbed way down a precariously old ladder into a boat & crossed the wide Gambia River. When we came to an opening in the mangroves, we turned into what was bird paradise! Thousands of them! Kingfishers, cormorants, spoonbill, storks, purple & great white heron, egrets, ibis, terns and so many I can't name but admired their brilliant colors. The funniest was the snake fish that dis look just like snake when it was swimming! On the shoreline, we saw crabs, a crocodile & a mongoose! I didn't want it to end but we headed back just as the sun set. Perfect. A dinner buffet was set up as there's a health conference being held here at the lodge with about 50 people. We slept on a hard bed under a mosquito net. The real Gambia experience.
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