Gambia #11

We moved on toward Banjul so we could check out a few other suggested sites. We're in an Airbnb near Tujereng. It's run by a German lady who's a great cook. She seemed delighted to serve us potato salad and ham on a huge plate soon after we arrived. The many monkeys around are kept away by her dogs. It's quiet and peaceful.
Here's Roger's thoughts:
"Kachadulaa Garden 2/7/22
The German lady who owns this place used to be a cook on a ship for East Germans. She learned to cook very well because they told her they would throw her over the side if the food was bad. A joke, I hope!
She (Mariama) came here after living for some time in Sweden, but now considers Gambia her home. Her friend, Carrie, lives a short distance away and comes to help with the kitchen work and waits tables. There are often many Europeans here for evening meals as Mariama is a great cook and offers dishes that are not commonly available here. Chicken Schnitzel, Ribeye steak, potato salad, etc.
Visiting with them we found that Carrie is in Gambia because she was being pressed to be vaccinated in Sweden and chose to leave rather than comply. She seems very content with her life here.
Mariama walks with a limp and says that she came here because the weather here allows her to move without pain. She has a Gambian husband and has no plan to return to Europe.
Her Gambian husband, Lamin, once took the back way to Europe and nearly died. They told us of their concerns for the future of Gambia….
"The children just want to use the phones and take pictures and see how people elsewhere are living. That encourages them to leave Gambia by taking the back way to Europe. They have no respect for their parents and don't listen to them because their parents cannot even read or write or even use a phone. The kids think they can find all answers using their phones. No need for education. So many young people have left Gambia that there are not enough to grow food…much land is idle."
It was a depressing view that we can only hope is not accurate."
Our second day here, a driver picked us up and first we ask to stop at an ATM. First two didn't work. While pulling up to another nearby one, a police office same over & started demanding something from our driver. A heated five minute argument followed. Our driver told us to get out and try the ATM while he sorted out the problem at the nearby police station. With a bit of help from the ATM attendant, we successes in getting money. Not long after, we spotted our driver who said all was well—the police captain knew him so no problem. As he said, Gambia is a small country and it doesn't take long to find someone you know. Evidently the fact that he and Rog did not have their seatbelt on between our ATM stops, was the problem. Cracks me up as you can see people hanging out the back of vans, riding on top of truck loads, piled on donkey carts…and they stop you for no seatbelt!
So we headed to Makasutu—which the guide book called a Cultural Forest. It too—like so much of what we've seen is past it's prime—even though it only opened 30 years ago. Most of what we were suppose to see wasn't there anymore. Two steps forward. One & a half back. That seems to be the reality here. They blame it on Covid but by the looks of things…Covid only added a bit to the backward direction. We took a boat ride through the mangroves & saw a few birds. Watched a man climb to the top of a palm tree to tap it for juice. A buffet lunch of African food was served…mostly cold but Rog liked it. While we ate, musicians played & one danced. Always tips are expected: boat paddles, climber, musicians, guide & driver. Adds up but it's the way workers here get their pay. We're told only gov't jobs have wages. Only the baboons who surrounded us while we ate didn't ask for tips!

Gambia #10

Paradise Beach…very appropriately named. Next to turquoise waves and a flat solid beach surface easy to walk on. Sand is fine, barely tan & mixed with tiny diamonds that sparkle. In the distance you have a view of Sanyang fishing village. Only a few other have found this gorgeous place. Breakfast is anytime; coffee, eggs & bread. We order a meal around 2 which is delicious fresh fish. We read and listen to pod cast while lying on the beach under palm trees. Occasionally, local girls will come to sell fruit which we enjoy later with our pb sandwiches. The girls often plop down besides us and chat…giving them a rest & shade and us a chance to hear about their lives and dreams. They play with my hair…so opposite of theirs. Young men on the beach play soccer, exercise and run. When I asked why they exercise, they tell me they want to build strong bodies which will helps their brains, give them longer lives and maybe a chance to win $$ at soccer. I listen to their many hopes and dreams…and worry for them. On the weekend, several large groups lugged grills, food, drinks, radios, speakers, drums and babies to the beach ready to party! No one swims but many play in the waves and take selfies. Their drumming and music sills the air until late. Surprisingly there seems to be no ocean spray & few mosquitoes. Five days here was a bit of Paradise!

Gambia #9

From Roger's pen:
We have been thinking about the economy here. Many people survive by selling vegetables or small items to their neighbors. They would love having the opportunity to get a good job. Improving the Gambian economy might be disastrous for the people and their culture.
If the country were to be modernized, it would mean better transportation, health care, education, more employment, industry, infrastructure, etc.
It would also bring addtional pollution and other problems that come with modernization. Likely their culture would suffer, tribal values may lose importance, and languages would change or disappear.
As the question of modernization looms, many Gambians have seen the possibility of a better life. They have decided to take "the back way to Europe" in search of opportunity, because they don't find it here.
They sail North along the coast in a desperate attempt for a better life, but often the boat does not reach its destination and is lost.
If they miraculously do reach Europe, the problems of proper identification, visa, etc. may still derail their plans.
Nearly everyone here knows several who have taken "the back way"…never to be heard from again.