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Tuesday, February 28, 2012

#13

Hi to all,
Well, we've finished up the volunteer part of our trip & we're in Guang Nan staying in a nice hotel with hot water, clean beds, internet & best of all, heat!!!! First night our internet didn't work & we had to go down to the desk in the a.m. and used the handy dandy talking machine Bekah gave us to tell we didn't have hot water so they turned it on for us by turning a switch located right under their desk & it worked!!! But we switched rooms so night #2 we had it all!! First time since we left home and boy are we loving it....

Guang Nan
This city is a new, neat & large town with a large sports arena in the center as well as a big gov't building...which may explain why it is so nice. The streets are wide lined with fancy tiled sidewalks and there must be t 10 -12 new buildings going up.

Mandarins
Now we've eaten mandarins in the country that speaks Mandarin.

Xanadu
Every heard of Xanadu--the most beautiful city that you can only reach by boat on a river that runs through a looong cave in a huge mountain??? Well, we went there. We went through three caves each was about the size of Mammoth Cave. Gorgeous. Many sections were lit up with colored lights. The boat was long and powered by a man standing on the end using a bamboo pole. No lifejackets --of course. In between the mountains, was the city--let's just say it was hardly the most beautiful and we saw trucks dumping load of gravel to use in the many building projects going on--well at least the boat ride was
most beautiful.

Food
Rice. Noodles--usually made of rice flour. Vegetables & roots--often ones we'd never seen or heard of--in various sauces (usually hot) & combinations. Small bits of meat usually mostly fat & egg omelets with greens. Sometimes all boiled together in a central hot pot full of soup. That's what we eat every day, every meal. Healthy--yes. Roger eagerly tries everything and enjoys most of it. Jane tries a little bit and enjoys less...but usually has been able to find Coke Zero and along with her nuts, peanut butter & m&m's is doing fine..... While in Guang Nan we tried to find a "western" meal. The clerk at the hotel desk just laughed. So why do we have so many Chinese restaurants in USA but they don't have any American here????
Hi-
Have enjoyed all the emails we've been getting from home. We really do feel like we are on the other side of the world--and after tomorrow--we'll be without Jenny, the Chinese-Canadian who has been interpreting for us and helping us make sense of lots of what we see around here. Better get starting doing some writing as I've gotten so far behind....

Leprosy
Fantastic gains in China! In 1980, the China gov't started giving lepers free medicine--partially thanks to the great work of a Chinese doctor who devoted his life to them and was the founder of HANDA which is the NGO that we have been traveling & working with here. They provide many services for the 157 eprosy colonies. So most of the colonies are now filled with only a few older people who have been grossly affected by the disease and will probably be the last generation to suffer greatly!!! It will take many years for their families to outlive the stigma attached & be allowed to work better ground or move to more prosperous areas but the future is bright!!!

Signs of Leprosy
Yup it is contagious but difficult to catch if your immune system is strong and you have proper hygiene...but if you see our eyebrows falling out & red blotches on our shoulders or back...let us know so we can get the proper meds that will immediately stop it!

Miao Tribe
One of the leprosy villages, Rao Ma Lu we visited had people from the Miao tribe. Their facial features were different as well as their language. It was a very small village with just 5 kids for me to assess. While Sophie and I ran them through the assessments, all the villagers except the men who had gone with Rog to check out latrine & their water supply, stood around us with large grins shouting at and nudging the child that was answering. Most of them knew so very little and were not going to any school. We identified the "most knowledgeable" and gave her the one book she could read as well as many word cards as she knew & put her in charge of teaching the others. After we left the village, I asked Sophie what the people were shouting at the children. She said, "Stupid." I wanted to go back and hug each of those kids and tell them they were not stupid--just unlucky to not have the privilege of an education!

The Weaver
Also in Rao Ma Lu, there was an old man who was so carefully & skillfully weaving a bird cage out of bamboo. He was missing several fingers and probably much of his feet by the looks of how his shoes fit. A bird cage. It struck me so odd that in this desperately poor village, someone with such handicaps would be weaving something of such beauty...so he could listen to the song of a bird. How many songs have I missed??

Face Washing
Living without running water is such a burden here. A clean face is a luxury. At Rao Ma Lu, we gave each woman a bag with soap & towel in it. Ask for a small bowl of water and I demonstrated both face and hand washing. After they got done laughing at me, they all got to work on their own faces. Suds & laughter overflowed! Such simple joys! We also gave them the washable menstrual pads --which embarrassed them--especially because Yuan (male) had to explain it to them because he was the only one who spoke Miao.

Advice from Sophie's Mom
When we were on top of one of the mountains, we got a phone signal so Sophie (22 Univ student who is volunteering) called her Mom. When I asked her what her Mom told her, she said, "Be independent and be brave." Sound advice.

Sign Painted on Wall
Large words are painted red on many of the walls in towns so I asked what they said: Less Children. Less Burden. Nothing like getting right to the point.

Equality between Men & Women
It's refreshing to see that there seems to be lots of equality between men & women. You see both caring for children, cooking, working in fields, building, etc...

No Market
It dawned on me as I was using yet another squat toilet...there is no market in China for Uncle John's Bathroom Readers!!!

Canola Fields
As we drove to a new village, we went by miles of the brightest yellow fields you can imagine: canola. I swear they glowed!

Graves
As you drive along the highway, often you go by grave sites. They are mounds of dirt usually with rock wall around & often with a large grave stone. In some areas, they dot the hillside. We're told choosing a grave site is very important. It usually faces SW and must be Feng Shui.

Still Building..
Even out here in the middle of no where, building is going on everywhere. We saw where they are blasting out a mountain to build a new railroad. Guess the building is in prep for that.

Facebook
Did you know there is no facebook in China...

Our Team
Here's the people we've been spending lots of time with:
Renay--born in China--now living in Canada--founder of Eco Village of Hope. Heart as big as the mountains around her which is supported by a clever mind that thinks anything can be done & she'll find the $$$$
Steve--from Oklahoma--has done humanitarian work for 25 years including spending the last 6 months in Zambia--has an incredible memory of multiple things he has studied--lots of common sense & stories
Jenny --born in China--now living in Canada--talented seamstress & pattern designer--thrilled to have raised lots of $$$ to help in her home land--creative & hardworking--totally enjoying the journey here
Sophie--Chinese 22 yr old Univ student hoping to be an elem teacher--first volunteer outing--immediate reppore with kids & me
Ong & OuYang- Chinese couple married one year--our translators. Both understand Chinese culture. OuYang is also seamstress so works with Jenny lots. Ong helps the guys. Both quiet & pleasant.
Yuan - Chinese HANDA worker who knows & loves the people in all the leprosy villages. Great at navigating through discussions & driving on these terrible mountainous & back roads. Love him.

Little Mothers/Daddies
All the little kids around the age of 8 - 10, walk around with babies on their back much of the time. But every so often, one of those little mommies or daddies crawl on my lap & let me rock them...allowing them to be the little kid they really are. A boy who is about 8, crawled on my lap at the village feast and though other kids laughed at him, he let me rock him for about ten minutes.

Created a Monster
Sophie & I have created a monster. The kids are now begging for us to do word flashcards for them. Sophie has been busy making up gobs of them & we've been handing them out to kids who can read them and telling them they know must teach others. The kids are also asking us to read to them and let them look at my Zoobooks. We a grand problem to have!

Flea Bites
Several of our team spent a night in the attic of one of the buildings as they wanted to get out of the cold--they ended up with lots of flea bites! Lucky for us, Rog & I stayed outside.

Scooter Lady
If you remember from an earlier writing, one of the older ladies has to move around on a scooter by using her hands and the ramp to her home was uphill, rocky & often muddy. I mentioned it to Renay and cementing her hill was put on the work list....and it got done!! Everyday I have visited her and her smile grows. Of course the cookies I take her has lots to do with it. Her village job is to hoe a large manure pile turning it so that it dries out. Several times that's where I find her...and feed her the cookie as her stubs which is all that is left of her hands, are so filthy...but seeing that grin just makes me forget that I'm in the middle of that manure pile too. One day as I was wondering why Anyone above would allow such things...two white butterflies circled her. Perhaps I need to remember, it's not where you are or what defects you must deal with...it's how happy you are that really counts...and her smile tells me she is a happy soul.

Blind Lady
After I was in the village for several days, I saw a very old, blind lady being escorted to an old, adobe broken down building. I followed. Shockingly horrid conditions. Bed looked like it had not been washed in years. Small area where a fire could be built. The rest filled with junk. How anyone could live in there is beyond me. When I checked with others, her story was: her son had died, his wife had remarried & her husband had kicked her out. They take only food to her.

No Water
No water is the biggest problem for Jui Dao Ma Lu. Currently they rely on rain collection but since this province has had a drought for three years, they now have to truck in water which cost lots of $$$$$...so wasting water on washing your body or clothes just isn't happening.

Village Meeting
The morning before we left Jui Dao Ma Lu, most of the men & women & our team had a meeting. Latrine cleaning, possible gov't well drilling program, sewing project expectations and my assessment results were some of the topics. With all the yaking, translating & grunting going on, it reminded me of what I always thought a POW WOW must of been like!

Saying Good Bye
It's never easy to say good bye & turn and walk away...especially when you know so much more needs to be done to make life better...but the time came. LaBoa, the old man who had let us use his house, sat on his door step and cried. We were all pretty quiet on the way to QuiBei--tired & dirty from all the packing & last minute jobs--and wishing we could have done more...

Ma Lu Tang
After a good night sleep in a hotel with running hot water, we jumped back in the truck & headed for Ma Lu Tang which is made up of about 135 people of the Yao tribe. It was the biggest & wealthiest of all the colonies we would visit but without water. They make their money by selling tobacco to the gov't. Several families were planting the seeds when we arrived. The adults filled trays, the kids put one seed in each small section & an adult then carefully placed them in a raised bed filled with water & later covered by a green house. After they sprout, they'll be hand planted in fields. Rog checked out latrines & cisterns making recommendations for future projects. I finally got to go into a school, meet the teacher & give her all the supplies I'd bought in Kunming. Since her classroom was nearly void of any teaching materials--except for the board she had painted black & some small bits of chalk--you can imagine the grin on her face! The kids were not back in school from break yet so missed out there but the teacher said that she had Gr 2 & 5 this year as they only begin a new class every three years. Next year she'll have Gr 3 & 6 and the following 1 & 4. This is the village the ECVS is planning to build them a new school next year and possible with Smart Boards. They also hope to hire teachers so kids can go up to 9th grade and then I guess the trick will be to get the school Gov't approved so the kids can go on to HS. But knowing how head strong Renay can be when she sets her mind to something...I think she'll do it!!!! Finally, we helped Jenny pass out the hygiene bags & reusuable menstrual pads to all the women...and granola bars to the kids.

Chinese Education
Here's what I learned from Sophie about Chinese education: Through Gr 6 is free for all, Gr 7- 9 families must pay for books, uniforms & if from villages, room & board. HS is up to families to pay for. Most villagers don't value education & need the help at home besides they can't afford the expense so Gr 6 is usually the end for them...and often their attendance is poor due to working in fields.

Discipline in the Classroom
Here's what Sophie said about discipline: Most children behave but if they don't--the first time the teacher will hit them on the hands--next time stand them by a wall or outside the door--next time call the parentand the 4th time, they are expelled from the school and most likely that is the end of their education. Most teachers are very strict. Class size is usually about 30 though Sophie remember 60 in her 1st grade.

Receipts
Yuan dilengetly gets receipts for everything he buys. Many times they have to be hand written and we sit and wait & wait...Yuan who usually has so much patience got a bit ansy while waiting for a young girl to write the receipt and mumbled, "Her mother said she should go to school but she said she'd rather herd the pigs but now she can't even count to 10!"

Luo Song Di
Our final village to visit was Yuan home village. It too is in the middle of no where but has wonderful river flowing through it...probably the Gov't didn't check it out before moving the lepers to that area!! Yuan's family welcomed all of us with open arms and prepared a feast of many of the foods they grew. Yuan's old uncle?? delighted us with his humourous & touching remarks. He handed a manderine to Rog & I and told us it was his way of thanking USA for helping them in WWII. He gave another to Jenny & Renay in thanks for Dr. Bethune, a Canadian doctor who aided many of Chinese injured in WWII. He offered Rog some home brew which Rog bravely slugged down as they studied his reaction--a large grin & claimed it went down smoothly. We also visited the school which had just been built last year & the kids were there!!!--Gr 1 & 4 (they also started a new class every 3 yrs). We again showered them with teaching supplies as the kids curiously looked on. The teacher (who himself only had a Gr 2 educ) took us down to his house & we sat around a fire as we asked him questions--the whole time his classes just sat in their rooms & read--which I heard happened often as the teacher also had a small restrurant business so if anyone stopped by to eat--he left the classroom to cook for them. He said it was very difficult for him to teach two grades so he only taught the very basics. He also said many kids who could come choose to go to another school a bit farther away...wonder why??? He proudly showed us his home which was very neat & clean and his swimming pool--diverted river water!! How cool is that!!! When then went to the town meeting place where Yuan had gathered most of the women so we could hand out the hygiene stuff. Then we headed to the upper part of the village to hand out more. In all we've handed out 126 bags of the 130 we packed!! Each filled with toothbrush, paste, towels, soap, nail clippers, Qtips, lotion, 6 underwear & washable pads for those who need them. We made one more stop to say good bye to Yuan's mom...when I hugged her she grabbed me &gave me a huge smack on both my cheeks making her hat fall off which made everyone laugh. Then it seemed the older women--especially those most deformed--lined up for their hug which I gladly gave--knocking a few more hats off. As we drove off, I could almost feel the pride the whole village had knowing the Yuan was one of theirs!!!

And as I sat around the fire with Yuan's family, another with the teacher, and so many times with many villagers...I knew that we had really experienced things in the bowel of China that no "normal tourist" could ...so I am so glad we are not the "normal tourist"......maybe a bit crazy & uncomfortable & unsure of what's going to happen next....but truly blessed.

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Hi from Rog again--

New Moon Festival
We woke to loud music about 4 am on the second day of the second month ( chinese calendar). The villagers had been up late and dogs had been barking much of the night along with roosters crowing so it felt like a long night with many interruptions. After breakfast of tea and oatmeal Steve and Rog worked on screening the end of the latrine pit. Before we got much done we were invited to come and eat with the men at Xiang's house. We were offered some of the choice parts of the meal( chicken head, chicken foot) but they were not offended when we passed on those. Another dish had chicken intestines mixed with blood which was not my favorite. The deep fried bread and pumpkin were good and easy to grab with my chopsticks. Before eating the old man ( La Boa) took several bowls of food and placed them on the mantle as an offering to the ancestors then squatted and sang as he slowly spooned rice from another bowl onto a very short stool. I think he was asking the ancestors to help bring rain for the crop they hope to plant soon. After much feasting and toasting with rice wine (tasted a lot like firewater to me), Steve and Roger went back to our job but only to be pulled away to another house and another meal with almost all the same village men. Again much toasting and some cigarettes (its ok to just light it and let it burn) and we went back to finish our job.

Bull Fight
Good thing it was a small job because we were next invited to go to the bullfight which was in the next village. We walked part way then a motorcycle from the village picked me up and I rode the rest of the way sandwiched between two of the village men. There was a country fair atmosphere with food booths and large crowds of people gathered about the fenced in area. Many bulls were tied about the grounds and a couple were led into the ring where groups of men talked and probably decided which one would win the fight. Then the bulls were led close to each other and their lead ropes were removed. After a brief hesitation they lowered their heads and locked horns close to the ground. Pushing and straining with all they had they tried to force the other one back until one gave up and turning away quickly made an escape. No damage...just a fun way to spend the day for people who usually spend day after day tending their mountain terraces. After Rog left Jane stayed for a while. Being the only white person around, she got lots of stares. One lady came up to her and jabbered away as though they were best friends. After quite a long wait to see another bull fight, Jane got up close to the fence to get pictures. She got one taken when suddenly she was hanked back and pulled away--it was her friend "saving her"--so much for getting pictures!! Sure made her friend feel proud.

Motorcycle Accident
Leaving the bullfight we once again headed to Rao Ma Lu. On the way we came upon a motorcycle lying on its side and in the middle of the road was an unconscious man lying face down. We stayed with him until he came around and helped him off the road. When an ambulance was on its way we left him to the local population. The man had a large gash above on his forehead which looked very bad but he probably will be fine after some stitches. We were annoyed that a man and his wife were close by the scene of the accident but had been afraid to get involved so stayed away until we arrived. When asked for water and a blanket they refused to help. Our interpreter said that they were very selfish people. They had let him lay in the middle of the road for about three minutes before we got there. Later I found out once the man was conscious they realized that they actually knew the man.

Stereotype
The people we have met and seen do not fit the stereotype that I somehow have visualized of the chinese people. Why would that surprise me? I probably got it from watching cartoons and comic strips and an occasional picture in the paper or TV. Instead we see chinese of many shapes and shades with features that are as varied as the people we see in America. Part of the joy of traveling is finding out not how we are different but how much we are alike. The people do not seem to be under scrutiny and seem also to be able to conduct business as they choose. That is another surprise as I expected much more control over their every lives.

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Hi all (from Rog),
I am back in Qiu Bei at the hotel. All is well here & hope there too.

Leaving Jui Dao Ma Lu
We had too many people to make it to town with just one trip so Yuan brought Steve, Ong, Sophie, and me then went back to get the rest of our crew. Our 1 !/2 hour trip to town was slowed by many animals in the road and a market in a town that we came through. The people we slowly drove past in the market town just stared at me like I was an alien (well, I guess that is what I am here!)

Village Farewell Festival
Last night we ate dinner in the village where we have been tenting. The men sat around one small table on short stools and we were served with bowl after bowl of food that everyone just helped themselves to using their chopsticks. There were plain dishes (potatoes, yams, tofu, and fried bread) that were intended for dipping in a special hot sauce. Also spicy fish (carp?) complete with heads, greens, pork, chicken feet (& we know what they'd been walking through), roots, and rice. There was also a dish of chicken livers mixed with chicken blood (not my favorite). Jenny brought smoked salmon & we'd bought fresh tangerines at the market to pass out. Bet you know what Jane ate. This was all preceded with cigarettes being passed all around (to help chase away the flies?) and more bowls filled with beer for each person. After many toasts we were told that the next one was "bottoms up" and the bowls were refilled. Some of the men played a drinking game a bit like rock, paper scissors where the loser had to take a drink. They wanted us to play, too, but after one short round we were ready to call it quits for the night even though it wasn't late.

Final Village Meeting
We met with the villagers again this morning and they seemed to be very happy with the help we have given them. We built solar lights, built a cover over the latrine, drilled for water, played with and read to the kids, and Jenny taught the women to sew and some of them got sewing machines. Xiang, the young man that I trained to put solar lights together, was very appreciative. He shook my hand and even hugged me as we said goodbye. He put five solar lights together while we were there and yesterday we took three of the lights to a village where there is no electricity.

Le Hong Ka
That village (with no electricity) was in a beautiful valley with a good supply of water (coming from a seep in the side of the mountain). The people and children were very clean and their crops looked good even though they have had three years of drought. The leader of the village started raising goats four years ago. They now have about 100 goats that look very healthy. The men took us to visit a cave near their village. We were interested to see what possibilities there might be for water inside the mountain. It was steep and dark with stalactites and stagmites, curtains, and combs formed by the action of water in the limestone cave. I didn't see any life in the cave, but Steve saw a couple of wood rats about a foot long! Jane assessed the children's education level (which was higher than any other children she'd assessed) and left word cards & books so the oldest girl can teach the younger ones. Jan also talked to the ladies about hygiene and such...and they were very responsive to wearing the washable menstral pads. Though this has been the nicest village we'd visited, they had lost 7 of their youth recently to city life. As we left, many of the people followed us up a steep trail to the the road where we had parked the SUV and we passed out a few treats as we said good bye. Someone from the village had put a large bag of hard boiled eggs (still warm!) in the car for us to enjoy on our trip back. It was very thoughtful and we enjoyed them as we bounced along the rough mountain road overlooking beautiful valleys and terraces. If our driver, Yuan hadn't proven himself to be very careful we might have been scared as the road (if you can call it that) was narrow with no guard rails and the drop was often 50- 100 ft. -- sometimes several hundred feet.

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Hello from the other side of the world!

Well--as things so often happen--we had to make another run to town as Jenny (from Canada) got bit by one of the villagers dogs. Luckily she had on two pairs of pants but it still broke her skin so we thought it best to come to the nearest hospital. So the women jumped in the jeep with Yuan & off we went. By the time we got to Qiu Bei, everything was closed so we'll go ASAP in a.m.. She is feeling fine & has a call into her own doctor so we aren't too worried. But while we're here...

The Wash
We quickly gathered up the filthiest clothes to wash in Qiu Bei--and filthiest is being a bit under descriptive. The lady at our hotel took us up to the roof where they had what you might call "half wash machines" as first you put clothes in to wash, then take them out and put in the spinner, next take them out and put in tub of rinse water, whosh them around and finally put them back into spinner. We hung them out on the lines and cross our fingers that they won't blow away and are mostly dry by a.m.... We also each took a hot shower marveling about how wonderful it felt.


Lesson Learned
I am learning that it is not possible to come into a place and make a change that is lasting unless the people really want that change to happen. Our efforts are all well intentioned but will fail over time unless the villagers take ownership of the plan and actually do it themselves with guidance and encouragement (money and /or materials). Its hard to do because doing "for" them is not good and guiding them to change takes so long that it feels like everything is in slow motion. Previous "help" was the introduction of pampers to the village. Now their latrine is plugged with pampers and a new problem has to be solved.

The Latrine
When we first arrived in Jui Duo Ma La, I (& all the other girls) could not force ourselves to go into the latrine. I have seen some pretty gross sites but this topped my list. The shovel was a much better option. At the village meeting, when asked what we could do to help--the latrine ranked right after the well. So once the well project came to a halt due to hitting rock, the latrine was next. So....our men joined the village men and dug in....literally. Can't imagine a shittier job! A hole was dug to put the pampers & liquids in. An overflow caused quite a raucous as the chickens where running through it--but was resolved by quickly covering it with dirt. Then the solids were put into another hole. If they'd leave the solids covered for about a year, they could then use it as fertilizer...but in their culture, one never uses human waste for anything...so more holes will be dug later. Next the guys covered the shit pit with corrugated mat'l so rain wouldn't get in & a pipe was put in so the liquids would drain out into a hole. Finally, using cement, they built a spot to use if you were only going #1. With pride, the villagers cleaned the latrine with bleach water and re-painted the signs on the outside indicating Male & Female--in both Chinese & English.
Outdoor latrine at school in southwest Yunnan Provincechinaschoolsfoundation.org:


Dinner & Lucky
(Warning: Karen & Terri should not read this!!)
It's true. They eat dog. I happened to look around just as a man was skinning one while a live dog circled him. Then he took it over & holding its tail, put it down in a hole where a fire had been built. Many kids gathered round the hole to watch. Several hours later, Yuan & Steve went to a villagers home to indulge. Roger declined. Steve later told us that the men were celebrating the completion of the latrine improvements. So we named that dog, Dinner & all the rest (around 15) Lucky...though we figured one should be called Next.

TP
Without a doubt, I have used much more TP on runny noses than in the on my behind!!! I actually carry a bag on my arm with a roll of TP so while I'm working or playing with kids, I can pass out TP & they can throw the used wad in the bag....I need a third hand just to deal with their runny noses!!!

Communication
No wonder the UN finds it so difficult to get anything done!! In this one little village, it's been a struggle to communicate. It goes like this: villager speaks in their dialect, Yuan tells our translator who then tell us. Then the reverse, English to translator, to Yuan to villagers--whose way of thinking and customs often twist or change what they hear. Several time there have been misunderstandings...and I can certainly understand why!!!

Superstitions
We've learned about so many superstitions held by some Chinese. Examples: Leaving your chopsticks in your dish means the food was not good enough for even the dead. After childbirth, a woman cannot enter another person's house until the baby is a month old.

The Girl with Sore Eyes
One of the little village girls has swollen & infected eyes. I asked her if they hurt & for how long. She said they have been hurting her for more than a year. I took her to Yuan to see what he could find out. He said her father tells everyone her eyes are like that because she cried so much as a baby. That made me want to cry!! Yuan took pictures & will try to get some meds to her.

Sewing Progress
Jenny now has 4 women excited about sewing! She has offered each a sewing machine in exchange for making 40 pants or 20 coats (or any combination) for other villagers. And they are now diligently working...some with babies strapped to their back...while their encouraging husbands do the cooking so they can sew longer!!! Success!!!

Student Teacher
Sophie (Chinese name: Li Yoo Xiang) is a great student teacher! She is in her second year at Yunnan Univ and hopes to be an elementary teacher. She's a natural. She gets rights down to the kids level, smiles & encourages them. Takes my direction and runs with it. Her enthusiasm overflows!

Learning Progress
With joy & pride in their faces, two little boys who learned to write the first characters of their names, went racing to show Yuan. They had practiced & practiced while several of the villagers looked over their shoulders and encouraged them. There was lots of joy & pride on Sophie & my face too! Another major thrill was when two older boys (who hadn't wanted to be part of our "class") moseyed over to check out what we were doing and ending up reading to some of the younger children. And the younger kids actually asked Yong to read aloud to them today!!!!

Peanuts for Counting
This is actually winter break for the kids...so I feel a bit quilty asking them to do school work...besides working in the fields...so I usually give them a treat...like peanuts for counting. I say a number...they say the next three numbers & get a peanut. We both get smiles.

Bio Sand Filter
A bio sand filter is up & running thanks to Steve. After carefully explaining how contaminated water that has run through the layers of rocks, gravel & sand can actually come out ready to drink, the villagers gladly helped him put on together. Hopefully they'll build more themselves!

Solar Light Kits
Rog has successfully taught Seurg to put the solar light kits together. He as completed 5 now & EVHS will pay him & take them to the village without electricity. Next time HANDA comes to his village, they'll bring more so he can continue to earn $$. Seurg will try to find other markets as well.

Debriefing Meeting
After the failed well drilling & latrine overflow, the debriefing meeting that we have each night was kind of a downer. But Renay was firm in saying that our team was working hard & success would follow. I smiled when she said Roger was like the salt of the earth. She is so right. The very next debriefing meeting, the latrine & bio sand filter were finished, the sewing was taking off, the kids were excited about learning and the villagers were thrilled about all of it. What a high!

Warmer Weather
Ahhh! The sun!! The last several days have been gorgeous! We are all stripping down to one layer again. Even the nights are warmer and the stars are so clear in the cloudless skies. Loving it!

Chinese Fire Drill
When we took off today for Ra Ma Lu, Rog needed to switch with Renay so he could talk to Steve...so Yuan stopped the truck. Renay & Rog jumped out, ran around the truck and hopped back in on the opposite sides. That's what we use to do when we were teenagers for fun & we called it a Chinese Fire Drill!!!

Better get to bed...who knows what tomorrow will bring. Know we love hearing from you and miss you!!!!

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Boomerang
After the guys finally got back from shopping, we took off after eating lunch. (Renay, Jenny & OuYang left with Meizi & her husband who met us here in QiuBei.) After about an hour's drive, we came to a small stream where Steve asked Yuan to stop. Since they had not been able to find clean sand for the bio sand filter, he thought he could find some there. About 2 1/2 hours of carefully digging & cleaning the sand using a bucket and a grain bag that I found in a nearby ditch, the guys had about 4 gallons of cleaner sand. But while leaning on the truck, Yuan noticed a nail in the front tire. He decided that he needed to get it fixed before heading deeper into the mountains--so back we went stopping at two repair shops but not finding anyone who could fix it. Finally, we ended up about a mile from where we started out this a.m.--got the tire fixed and then checked into the same hotel we were at last night. Enjoy the journey!

Terrace Farming
While waiting for the guys, I took a walk and got a close look at terrace farming on the nearby mountain. It's simply amazing to see how they have used so much of the mountain for farming. Plots about the size of a large garden have been leveled & a rock wall built to form terraces. One after another after another after another. Most the way up the mountain--some all the way up. The contrast between the bright green ones where something is growing is shoking next to the bleak stone & dryness of areas that are not cultivated. Can you imagine climbing up to work in the top terraces?? As Steve said, how would you have any energy left to work???
Back at the hotel in Qiu Bei (sounds like chew bye) tonight. Try to find it! We were on our way back to the village when a nail in our tire sent us back here for repair and now will leave early in the morning for the village.
Our driver is very careful and we feel comfortable riding with him. We saw some beautiful views of the mountains and terraces again today and it warmed up some with several hours of sun. Spent a few hours washing sand in a stream for use in a water filter for the village. We plan to work in the village for another day or two then move to another village. Love to all! Dad

I'm back...looks like the guys will take a bit longer to finish their shopping so I'll keep in typing...

Yong--
Needed to add one more thing about Yong. She only completed 5th grade in Guang Dong but now must go to the smaller local school--probably because she could not pass the examination to get into 6th grade. So much potential but so little opportunity.

Flowers
You know you are appreciated when you find fresh picked flowers outside your tent!!

Cook & Bottle Washer
Renay is a fabulous cook! How lucky can we get--she has taught Chinese cooking classes & written a cook book. We've been gobbling down delicious meals--how will I lose that 10 lbs???? She bought lots of fresh vege's & brought a suitcase full of other stuff to add to them. We brought a rice cooker & put all that together and you've got a great meal. All eight of us huddle around a table the size of a card table, sitting on stools and using our chopsticks manage to eat lots. Renay all insist on doing most of the dishes as well...and always with a smile!

Jenny: The Seamstress
Jenny seamstress skills are amazing! She brought with her a suitcase full of needles, thread, zippers, elastic, etc.....and the company she works for sent rolls of fabric. With the sewing machines she bought in Kunming, she has already taught several ladies how to make pants & shirts. She shows them how to make patterns too. It's so neat to watch them start with a piece of paper, draw a pattern, cut it out & presto, sew it up!!!

Scarves for all
We woke up to a drizzle so Jenny pulled out some cloth & starting cutting. In no time, she was wrapping pink scarves around the heads & necks of all the little girls who were poking their heads in our door. Soon all the women were coming, so more scarves were made. Then Jenny pulled out a roll of blue cloth & soon the boys were sporting them. It made a great picture!

Scooter Lady
As I was walking to my tent, I saw an older woman sitting on a low scooter working her way up a muddy, manure covered hill toward her home. I bent down & started pushing her as she squealed with laughter. It was all I could do to get her up that hill the whole time wondering how in the world she does it herself!!! She beckoned me to come in to her home...actually I think she was insisting...so she, I and her husband sat around a small fire that was in the middle of the room--grinning at each other. After a bit, she offered me food & he offered me his bong pipe (yes, I refused both). With the stubs she had for hands, she kept pushing the hot coals into the center of the fire. She was missing part of her leg also--but she sure wasn't missing a smile!! When I motioned that I needed to leave, she frowned. I did go back the next day & we watched a bit of traditional dancing & singing on her TV--the only thing besides a rice cooker of the western world I saw in her house. I hope to do that several times. It seemed to bring her such joy--and me too!

Always Teaching
Once a teacher, always a teacher. Every minute I can, I spend with the children. We have done lots of pattern games, follow the leader, Doggie Doggie Where's Your Bone, Counting while playing London Bridges, drawing self portraits, tic-tac-toe but their favorite is Blue Bird In & Out My Window--which they try to sing all the time even though I can not get them to say "bird"--they say "burr"--which since it's so cold, maybe makes more sense!! They also have devoured the Zoo magazines I brought. They have spents hours scouring them. Yesterday, I thought the kids were home eating supper, so I was walking toward our tents when I heard them shouting. They came bounding over a heaping manure pile and grabbed me. I surely didn't want to take all those manure filled shoes into our tenting area, so we headed up the mountain instead--singing Do, a deer, a female deer.... Just like Sound of Music...well close anyways. Later that night, I was drying dishes when a bunch showed up & asked if I could come out and play--what could I say???????

Little Mothers
The 8-10 year old girls seem to be in charge of the babies. Several of them have one strapped on their backs & they carry them most the day. That doesn't stop them from doing whatever is going on. After I gave them balloons to swat around--they joined right in. Jumping, hopping & swatting the balloon--all right next the the 4 ft ditch right next to us. No safety nets here! I've seen the same little one twice carrying a 12 in curved knife around and those stumbling toddlers also walk right next to that ditch--with no one even semi-close. Makes my heart stop beating...and I think of my little grandbabies that have safety everything everywhere.

Village Meeting
After our first whole day in the village, Yuan asked one person from each home to come to a meeting. They were excited as that day the clay coming out of the drilling was wet so there was much hope in the air. They profusely thanked us for all that we were doing. I was told I could continue working with the children. Jenny explained that the sewing could bring them in some money & hoped they would encourage the woman to continue learning. Steve was not feeling well so not there...but Rog explained about how they could build a bio sand filter so the water they got from their cisterns could be safe. He also asked permission to cement the hill going up to the scooter lady's home. They were pleased with both ideas. Much discussion followed about the latrine--the only one in the village so used by all. (How can I explain them--let's just say you don't want to know or smell it.) It's totally backed up as pampers & pads are thrown there & the pit is not covered so it's very soupy--maybe that's not the best word. The final decision was to drain the liquid, dig a hole for pampers & pads and another hole for the solids. After a year, the solids can be dug up & used as fertilizers. Yuan made them all laugh when he told them human feces make sweeter vegetables! Yuan is an talented & trusted negotiator always asking the villagers to express their opinions.

Hitting Rock
Why do these people have such a tough life?? First having someone in their family contract leprosy...then being banned to the poorest land where it's cold...and with no water. All yesterday's excited quickly came to a crash when the drillers again hit rock. They'd drilled down almost 9 feet when they hit the rock...and after spending most of another day trying to break it--they gave up. It had been so much fun for Rog & Steve to see them take charge of the drilling--having one of them hop on top to add weight--grinning as they went round & round drilling deeper & deeper and watching the children make pots & other art projects from the wet clay. Everyone had been so hopeful... I can only ask WHY????

Shopping For Supplies
While we're in town, the guys are out shopping for stuff to clean up the latrine, build a bio sand filter water system & cement the scooter lady's ramp. We certainly don't want to leave their village without some very visible success. The sewing is wonderful...but only affects a few. We want to help all of them ...with sustainable projects...that will improve their living conditions.

Wagon Train
Our tents are set up in a circle which reminds me of how wagon trains circled up at night. Rog & I must sleep pretty good as Jenny told us each morning that we added to the "snoring symphony"--along with Renay,Yuan, Steve & Ong. Renay informed Jenny that she too snored--only more quietly and almost creating a song.

Rocking
One of the little rascals climbed on my lap. I began to rock him singing "Rock A Bye Baby." He quickly put his head on my shoulder & nuzzled down...letting me rock & rock & rock him. When he finally got up...another about 8 yr old girl came. Again I rocked & she nuzzled down as I sang. I knew that this little girl's mother had left her 4 children & the village after her two husbands had died--she had probably been ostersized as others thought she brought bad luck. As I rocked her, I had to wonder if she was thinking about her mother. Painful.

Animals
Everywhere. Dogs barking, pigs snorting, roosters crowing, chicks peeping, goats bleating, ox mooing...begins just before dawn & last until...when not sure when it ends!!! All these animals produce lots of manure...so there's piles everywhere also!

Nicer Home
Rog & I & others were invited into the home of the nephew of the village leader. THough it was built exactly like every other home, it was much cleaner & neater. They had a nice pink couch & love seat. A Tv, dvd & shelf unit. The kitchen had a large cement stove with huge opening for the wok to sit. Lots of dried vege's hanging. The pork was drying upstairs. Obviously, lots of pride in that home. The nephew is the same guy who learned to put the solar light kits together quickly & seems to be the key pin in the welling project. We were told he has worked outside of the village so he had more money to spend. The village leader & his wife are working outside now.

Leaving the Village
It would seem everyone would just leave this village...but we were told that one must apply to leave their village & are often denied. They can go work other places but cannot get any benefits outside their village. Benefits like medical & schooling. As explained, if people were allowed to leave, large cities would become way overcrowded with poor people and there would be many fewer farmers--whom they depend on. So even with a good education...if that's even possible...very few villagers will have an opportunity to leave permently But a few do. The meaning of freedom has become much more precious to me.

Yuan's Story
After spending over a week with Yuan, we learned his story. He was born in one of the leprosy colonies & was plucked out by a HANDA worker who recognized how clever he was. He was taught how to make prosetics (SP???) and has become an expert at that. (Though HANDA is always scrounging for $$$ so he can make more.) He returns to the leprosy villages often serving the most needy. He found a wife in one of them & they now have a beautiful son & live in Kunming--thanks to HANDA. No wonder you see such love & tenderness in him when he is with the villagers.

Tantrums
Yup--here too. Witnessed a full blown tantrum that lasted almost an hour today. One little guy wanted his mother to quit sewing & get him some water. When she refused, he threw himself on the cement & began kicking & screaming. An older lady with one foot twisted in & who had a child already strapped on her back...picked him up & carried him a ways, then set him on the ground. There he continued his tantrum as she sat quietly ignoring him. Kids are the same everywhere.


Shredder
As Rog wa visiting the home of another villager, he saw him throw lots of greens into a shreder then take it all out to the pigs. Made the pigs happy!

Runny Noses
Can't begin to tell you how many runny noses we've wiped!! The adults use the spray method so you have to move quickly when you hear them start to blow....

Gotta go...my ride is here!

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Hi All!! Hope you are all keeping warmer than we are!! We are back in a hotel now as our tents got wet & it was still drizzling so we drove the one & one half hours to town.... but here's the story from where I left off :

Jui Dao Ma Lua
After swerving for semis, motorcycles, ox & carts, goats, people and various other moving objects while driving on switchback roads climbing higher & higher (therefore the cliff beside us was getting steeper & steeper), we came to the end of the road. Then we started down a wide path & then finally turned onto the lane which ended at Jui Dao Ma Lua. Excited children raced down a hill to greet us as we tried to take in the site before us. Poverty. We have seen it before but it always slaps us in the face and it almost feel a deep ache within. But this was not the time to reflect on it...we had people to hug & show that we'd come because we cared. We set up our tents just beyond the main village and one of the locals had given up his main room for our "kitchen, dining room, storage & working space." It's about the size of our living room. The home is constructed of brick, cement floors & wood beams covered by plaster like stuff for walls. No heat. I repeat--no heat & it's probably about 45-50 F. We put on our warmest clothing and started cleaning up the best we could. Those diaper wipes I brought came in handy. I used 6 to clean off one shelf. The guys went out to meet the local men & figure out where they wanted to start drilling for water. It didn't take them long to find the spot, cut a tree to erect a tripod, attach the pulley & drilling head and begin. Renay plugged in a small heating unit & put on a kettle of water. Soon we were showing the kids the proper way to wash hands, faces & blow their nose. Who knew that could bring such bubbling laughter!!

Assessments
With the help of OnYung, I began assessing the kids. The first girl was 15, married with 1 or 2 kids & beautiful. She willingly correctly named the words on the flashcards I showed her (thank goodness I'd found some in the USA that were in Chinese) but when I asked her to read, she said "I'm married and don't need to do that." Most of the next ones were between the ages of 7 & 11...most didn't know any of the words but could count correctly the 20 buttons I showed them. Some could even figure out how many were left when I took one or two away. One 4 yr old didn't know how old he was & wouldn't tell us his name. He said he didn't know but maybe he was just pretending cause he was quite the character. I found two who could read the level 1-2-3 book I'd purchased in Kunming--one 11 & other 13--both who had gone to school in Guang Dong (nearby city). Since the 11 year old missed stumbled over some of the words, I asked the 13 year old if she was willing to read to the younger ones. With much coaxing, she agreed. We gathered up the kids (which wasn't hard as they seem to follow me like bees around their hive) and with my arm around Yong, she began. It was thrilling...but the kids were a bit too noisy & rambunctious The next day, I again asked her & made it very clear to the kids that they were to listen quietly (& if they did, we'd give them a cookie.) They lwere great & clapped when Yong finished the story. I asked if they wanted to hear another & they loudly said yes! So after three stories, I told Yong that if she read to the children often, they would become better readers and she would be like a teacher to them. She said she would like to do that so I gave her the book. She beamed! Then I handed her the cookies to hand out to her students. What a thrill for me--and I hadn't even noticed I was cold!!!

Gotta go--we're heading back to the village.....

Wednesday, February 15, 2012


Hi-
Can't believe I got to use a computer two days in a row!!!!

Valentine's Day in Kunming
Yup--red roses are here too & lots of couples were enjoying each other & dinner out tonight. We spent the afternoon packing up bags with soap, toothpaste, tooth brushes, towels and 6 pairs of undies in ziplocks so we'd be ready to pass them out to the woman in the villages many of which have none of the above. We then boxed up things so we'd be ready to take off tomorrow. Jenny was off with Meizi shopping for sewing machines which they found and had 15 shipped to one of the villages. The Yuan took Jenny & us to the Nationalities Museum where we got to see many of the area nationalities native clothing & housing. Finally, we were ready to celebrate our last night in Kunming. Yuan & his wife & young son, Meizi & her husband, Li, Jenny, Roger and I went out for a Dai dinner complete with 12 dishes and another enjoyable evening with our new found friends.

The Gangs All Here
Renay, founder of Eco Village of Hope & Steve who has worked with Water4 arrived late last night. We all met up for a meeting to get everyone on the same page this a.m. and then packed the truck to the gills, sent Rog, Steve & two others who will help with translation & whatever else we need (haven't got the spelling of their names yet) off to the bus station and with trusty Yuan at the wheel, the rest of us piled in the truck & headed for the nearest large city about two hours from the first village we'll be visiting: Jui Dao Ma Lu. We enjoyed another bountiful meal and are staying in a pretty nice hotel...that allows us to use the internet!! Life is good.
Renay:
Unofficial Meeting Minutes:
Renay warmly welcomed everyone to the team by passing out Valentine candy boxes. She then introduced each of us noting what area we'd be heading up. Renay was clear in tellin us the key words to all our projects was "We'll try." We don't want to raise expectations and then have the villagers lose faith in us...and themselves. Steve (who has spent much time in third world countries) called it "Poverty Fatigue": when people work & work & things don't get better pretty soon they quit & don't have any hope that things will ever improve. If we go in there saying we are going to do this or that and it doesn't work...we add to the poverty fatigue. Renay also made it clear that nothing is to be done without the approval of the village head with Yuan or Meizi doing the communiction. Steve told a story that made that point clear: A man standing next to a dog was asked by another man if his dog bites. The man said "No." So the second man bent down to pet the dog and it bit his hand off. He shouted at the first man, "I thought you said your dog did not bite!" The first man said, "My dog doesn't. That dog isn't my dog." Morale of the story: Make sure the villagers (and us) totally understand what we've come to do. We are here to teach & supply tools and give HANDA support. HANDA is here for the long run & makes frequent visits to each village providing them with essential needs. EVHS is here to enhance a little at a time, the life of the villagers. But foremost we must remember, it is their village and we must respect their wishes. If we can encourage a more hopeful & positive mind set of the villagers just a bit, progress will happen over time.

Until I get another chance to write....take care & keep in touch

Monday, February 13, 2012

I'm so excited that the last update appeared to have sent so I will just keep going....not that you have to keep reading!!!

Roads
The best. Almost all the roads seem new & very well constructed with ramps going every which way in the city and beautifully landscapes. Street sweepers are out in huge numbers using broom made of probably some type of straw. It's so clean around here. Outside the downtown area, the roads are like super highways...but still often landscaped. We've been through several loooong tunnels and over loooong bridges.

Shopping
We spent two entire days shopping for things we'll be taking to the leprosy villages. Jenny for sewing & hygiene. Rog for projects mat'l & tools. Me for classrooms & students. We were in huge supply buildings ( 11 4 story buildings) crammed with everything you can imagine. With our list in hand, we sorted through the mountains trying to find what we think we need. Not an easy task. I thought it was hard in Thailand to give out reading glasses. I truly struggled with trying to pick out reading books that I could not read for students when I don't even know their reading levels. LiRunJiang was helping me--thank goodness--but he has very limited English so we must have been a comical pair trying to figure out what I needed to buy. I was able to get lots of posters, maps, pencils, scissors, etc...so atleast it'll be a good start for the two classrooms we will be setting up. Rog was with Yuan--who spoke no English but is very smart & they were able to find much of what was on Rog's list. Jenny, of course, speaks fluent Chinese and her company & many friends had given her about $6000 to spend---most was for sewing machines but her shopping pile is huge: scissors, thread, sewing kit boxes, towels, undies, soap, q-tips, etc.... What we couldn't find at the supply centers, we found at Walmart!!

The Three Amigos
We've been having a blast with the three local Chinese who have been driving us everywhere & feeding us constantly: Meizi, Yuan & LiRun. They laugh loudly & often & try to please us in everyway possible. We feel so pampered & lucky!!! And to top it off, we have Jenny to intrepret for us!!!!

Housing & Building Cost
Back to all those millions of housing units...we were told that each is about 100 sq meters and cost about $600 a month which is about what one person can make per month. And the cost of construction is between $10 -20,000 per sq meter. What a housing boom!

Breakfast
Normal breakfast here is a very large bowl of a soup with rice noodles topped with lots of hot sause and you can add fried pork rind, onions, chilis, peppers, etc. or....boiled eggs & steamed rolls. Can you guess which I choose??? Even Rog is eating the eggs.

Lunch & Supper
Huge. It's amazing how many main dishes on set in front of you at each meal--at least 6. And an overflowing bowl of rice too. Everyone uses their chopsticks to dig in taking from each main dish and adding rice to their bowl. Rog is now an expert at using sticks & I'm improving though it's okay that it takes me much longer to eat!! Rog is trying everything and as you can imagine--liking everything. Our Three Amigos took us to a western style restraurant where one of the dishes we had was pizza. Li even ate his pizza with chopsticks. I wanted spring rolls last night so they knew where we should eat. We also got a plate mounded with deep fried fish--about 2 inches long. Yuan must have eaten 20 of them...with chopsticks....expertly eating around the tiny bones. His plate was full of those bones.

Fashion
Boy am I underdressed here! Women around here wear gorgeous clothing with lots of glitter & frills and fancy high heel shoes. (Marcee, you'd love it) Many young girls wear very short skirts & high heeled black boots. Picture someone dressed like that driving a motorcycle!

Language Barrier
Though we know we are missing out on lots because we have NO idea what is being said around us--and it seems no one speaks English anywhere we go--the good side of that is that we have lots more time to observe what's happening all around us and notice details that we usually don't because we are too busy talking!!

School Visit
We were welcomed into a private school that teaching English to students after school & on weekends. I felt at home being surrounded by word walls & sight words, posters of word families, and student work displayed that looked so similiar to USA. Most students were not there as it's still New Year holiday here but the few there were fun to visit with. This school was the first in the area to use the Smart Board and the head master was proud that so many other school officials came to visit & are now using them. I still can't fathom how we'll be able to use them in the villages as it even at that school, they did not have them hooked to the internet but had purchased a Houghton Miflin program--and I don't think we''' have that. What will be will be! Befire I left, the head master offered me a job--which I heard would pay about $1000 per month and housing was not included. Not even tempting.

Stone Forest
Since our shopping was done, the Three Amigos & us headed out of town about one hour to the Stone Forest. Stunning and humungous---(give me a break about spelling as I don't want to take the time for spell check or re-reading!!!) Giant limestone towers of every shape and size erupted over miles. These towers are called Karst--which is what the towers we canoes to by Pughet last year were. So here we are seeing karst on land! A rather new park has been established there with well built paths throughout the towering stone structures---some going waaaay down & some going waaaay up. We hiked around taking lots of pictures & truly enjoying the beautiful warm day. THe most famous tower was Ashima--named after a legendary lady who refused to marry a wealthy & powerful man but instead waited for her true love. We'd brought lunch (bread, peanut butter, chips, buns filled with beans, sweet rolls & diet& reg Coke we'd bought at Walmart) & found a perfect tables with six stools all carved from the limestone & nestled in the between the towers. Jenny pulled out smoked salmon she'd brought from Vancouver--delicious. What an amazing place to truly enjoy a wonderful feast. Only 3 people passed through as we ate & ate & ate. How lucky can one get?????? After lunch, we hiked around a bit more and then came to a stage where the local tribe (Asi) were performing traditional dancing & singing. We went to an adjacent Black Stone Forest where we again climbed among the towers, stopping to eat again & taking a rest on the green grass. Besides the towers, we enjoyed the many blossoming trees. One path we walked had blossoming cherry trees that had been connected to form an arch over us. What a wonderful day. I will try to remember one of the sayings I read on a sign that explained how the stone forest was formed by rain breaking down the limestone: Time & softness overcomes hardness.

Terrace Farming
As we drove to & from the Stone Forest, we passed lots of active terrace farming. So many hillsides had areas leveled and filled with manicured rows of vegetables. In the valleys surrounding the villages where all the houses were built, the flat land was being farmed in small plots. There were also hundreds of green houses. It seemed no land sat idle.

Fruits & Nuts
Everywhere you go there are fruits & nuts for sale--many we've seen in other countries but many other we have not. Jenny is very adventurous and trying lots of them even she has never seen. She & Rog both really enjoyed the snake skin fruit they ate yesterday. Jenny is loving the roasted sweet potatoes & was in heaven when she was given some root that she remembered eating as a child. It's not unusual to see people eating all these cooked roots anywhere we go. When I looked at the deli in Walmart, I could not recognize one thing.

Streets
Visions of playing frogger in Kolkata are returning to us as we watch pedestrian after pedestrian dogged moving vehicles. Rog said it puts real meaning to the saying A miss is as good as a mile. And once they do get to the sidewalk, they really can't walk safely there either as cars park by backing up right over the sidewalk.

Sunday at the Park
While waiting for Juan to pick us up Sunday, we went to a park. Rog & Li sat with our purchases which drew lots of attention & they were soon surrounded by kids & teens interested in looking at a map they had out. I strolled around delighted to see so many people enjoying themselves. Many kids were with grandparents and playing on the swings & slides. There were lots of games of chess & mohjong being played by groups of men. Several tables were being used for adults & kids who were painting. There was a roller skating ring & jump house too. So much fun being had.

Translation
We have had many laughs as we read signs that do show an English translation below the Chinese. Here's just two examples:
Carefully slip
Don't Drive Tiredly

Wow!! I think I'm caught up...which is good since I sure don't know when I'll have this much time to use someone's computer again!!! Hope all is well with you and yours! Please feel free to email us as we were able to read some today & loved hearing from home.........
We visited the Yunnan Stone Forest yesterday..so amazing!
Today we are at the Handa office in Kunming...Renay is coming in tonight and we plan to leave for the leprosy villages tomorrow..Packing today and going to see a cultural village this pm..Love to all Dad
Nihao,
Where do I begin....We've done & seen so much since last I could spend time on a computer. First a quick correction on my lastupdate--the Tse boys will get to attend a gov't school. We are still in Kunming but headed to leprosy villages early tomorrow. Here's a bit of what we've been experiencing...

Invitation
After spending a couple days with a local woman who was invited to join us because she'd worked with Renay, she wrapped her arm in min & invited us into her home. She beamed as we toured her 100 year old home filled with drying vegetables, wood stove, small kindkling sticks, piles of bagged clothing, mosq netted beds, ancestor worship altar... and TV...and flat screen computer! We even climbed the ladder for a view from the rooftop ducking the bambooo clothes lines. How authentic can you get?? This is the reason we travel the way we do!!

Cold
We expected to be cold in China--but not inside too!! Even though we stayed in one of the nicest homes in Taishan, it didn't have heat-nor did the fancy restraurant where we were served a 5 or 6 course meal by waitresses in pink coats--nor the bank or travel agency. Not anywhere!! Everyone wears their coats inside & outside and often with gloves if working cash registers. Our long underwear hasn't had a break!

Chairman Li
After yet a final feast prepared by Chairman Li & a neighbor, we hugged her & told her (through Jenny) that she was so kind & generous to us and she replied that it was our example--coming to help her people when we were not even Chinese--that she followed. Those words warmed my heart....and took all the chill out of the air!!

Off to Kunming
While flying to Kunming on Air China, we finally began to thaw out. Meizi & Yuan were waiting for us with huge smiles when we arrived. Both work for HANDA (an NGO helping lepers). With Yan at the wheel, we made our way to our hotel dodging traffice that weaved in & out, adding lanes at random with motorcyles & bicyles &pedestrians filling in any cracks. Bazaar!! We were rewarded with a warm hotel room with a hot shower!! The next morning we were greeted by the sun --first time since we arrived in China-- and the temperature was 20 C--so good!! This city is in the Yunnan province which is know as the Province of Eternal Spring....and boy is it nice to see it's true!! Many tress are in blossom & though most Chinese are wearing big coats...we took off our long underwear and are wearing light jackets.

High Rises
When I was trying to help my students understad number sense, I'd put marbles in jars & ask them to quess how many. As we drive through & around Kunming's miles of high rise housing, I started tryint o estimate the # of people: # of floors (@30) x number of housing units (@10) x # of people in each unit (@5) x # of high rises (too many to count)...only then did I begin to grasp what the meaning of their 1.4 population (USA is .4) Mind boggling. Can you even begin to imagine the amount of food, water, plumbing, electricity, waste control etc that is needed here???

More, More & More
Cranes are everywhere as more high rises are being built in tremendous numbers. One site we went by today had 25 high rises in construction...with bamboo sdcaffolding and mesh surrounding each.

Factoreis
Now we've seen why & where so much of what we buy in USA comes from! The factories are gigantic and they surround Kunming...and more are being built. There is housing on the site for most of the workers who we are told sleep 5 or ore to each housing unit.

Babies
Babies are adored here! Everyone I've seen has been bundled in many layers and carefully tended to. Their pants have a large slit up the back where their diaper hangs out. Many are being cared for by both grandparents. And for the first time in my life, I can't even smile at them!!! --because after I made three of them cry by trying, I realized I am only scaring them.

Few & Far Between
We've been in China a week now and seen less than 5 other caucasins & none with gray hair or as a couple. We've even had a lady ask to have her picure taken with us. And talk about getting stares!!!


Saturday, February 11, 2012

This will be really short as computer use can only be done with Chinese person with you and our cells do not work here....we are well and definitely immersed...we have been here in Kunming for two days and have not seen another caucasian person...with arms linked, we have been led through many homes...offered much tea and food and through our smiles, we communicate a mutual enjoyment of each other. We will be here one more day shopping for things we will need in the leprosy colonies and meeting with smartboard representatives and visiting a school. Hope all is well there...and don't worry if you don't hear from us!! The Chinese people we are with are taking very good care of us!

ARRIVED IN CHINA

Hi Everyone...For those of you interested in reading our emails from China...here's the first. Not sure when the next time will be as finding a computer has been tricky and we are headed for even more remote areas...I expect it will get tougher...

After over 30 hours of traveling, we were grandly rewarded with a gorgeous view of the Hong Kong harbor from our 23rd floor hotel room...and woke up the next morning eager to do some roaming and found a gorgeous park where many were exercising and birds were singing, large ships were loading next to small fishing boats, and chic store fronts were next to market stalls...in other words, much contrast. A short time later, we met a Canadian, Jenny who had lived in China for her first twelve years and was returning as part of the group we'll be working with. She's a wonderfully, energetic girl who speaks Chinese & is so excited about helping in her home country...and we're so excited she is helping us get around. She had brought with her a cousin's husband who helped haul our luggage & two heavy bags of tools first to the subway and then to the train which took us to the mainland where we went through customs and then met up with our driver, Ming. If this sounds easy...it wasn't. Thanks goodness Jenny knew how to get through the maze! Then we were off...Jenny's cousin & her mother joined us...driving over an hour through the huge high-rises that were huddled together...it seemed like we were in a thick forest of high-rises...most with balconies where their laundry was hanging.

Our first real meal
Around 2, we stopped at a local restaurant for our first real meal in China...turtle & chicken soup and eel & fried rice. As dishes were set on the table, the cousin & her mom washed all the dishes with the hot tea before filling our soup bowls. I timidly tried it & was surprised it tasted so flavorful. Rog lapped it up and quickly learned to use the chopsticks to gobble down the eel & fried rice. After applauded Rog, I admit they had to bring me a fork after watching me struggle.

Jenny's home village
Then we drove off to the village where Jenny lived. It appeared to be a ghost town for the most part. Jenny found her old house that still was filled with lots of pieces of furniture, pictures on the wall, the cook stove, pig pen, chicken crate, ancestor shrine, scales and even a elegant tea pot. Jenny's memories overwhelmed her as she went from one area to another recalling her life there. A few locals started joining us--coming from those seemingly empty homes. Jenny emptied one of her suitcases spreading cookies, candy, dried salmon, dried fruit & cakes on an ancient table. That brought everyone else left in her hometown and such a party of chattering began. If only we could have understood...but without a doubt, there was much happiness. A local lady climbed the lady to light incense in front of the ancestor's shrine. Jenny then asked us to follow as she went in search of an old woman who helped her mother care for her. She found her in her home...dark, cold & barren...Jenny ladened her with warm clothes & good foods and the smile on her beaming face is one I'll never forget. Rog & I then explored abit as Jenny soaked up her time with the villagers & the memories of her long ago home. How different her life would have been had not her desperate parents...as so many of those who farmed in this village...left to find a better life. We made another stop dropping off Jenny's cousin & her mother and a suitcase filled with clothing.

Sheng On Tuin
About four hours from the border, we started seeing fields, sheds and villages that wer built on a large cement slab with house clustered together and surrounded by fish ponds, small gardens & rice paddies...built about 3 ft below the heighth of the village. We stopped in Sheng On Tuin and got out in front of the nicest home around. It belongs to Chairman Li (who is like the head of the social welfare of about 1 million people). She doesn't live in it but lets the vp of the village there . Chairman Li is a friend of Renay who heads up the Eco Village of Hope (EVH) so she generously allows EVH voluteers to stay overnight. The house has decorative tile, inlaid wooden doors, marble door knobs, huge dining room table with lazy susan, a western toilet without the flush...but no heat. I haven't taken my long undies off since I put them on shortly after we got her. But what they lack in heat, they make up in food. Today we were literally forced to stuff ourselves...twice. I am now thankful for chopsticks because they allowed me to appear to be eating for hours without actually getting much in my mouth. Rog of course, was delighted to try the quail, shrimp, tree mushrooms, various roots & other unknown vegetables even covering them in a variety of sauces. He is snoring like a happy Chinaman as I'm typing this.

ATM
We spent over 3 hours today getting tickets to Kunming at a travel agency. They would not take anything but cash so we went to a bank--they did not have an ATM so we had to go to a bigger bank. They had an ATM but it did not have money in it. Chairman Li took us to the "right bank teller" who recorded all our info...then we had to wait for another teller to give us the cash...so one ATM stop took almost 2 hours. But we succeeded!

Orphanage
Rog & I seemed to be drawn to orphanages. Chairman Li asked permission for us to visit the local one. Most of the children we off to school or therapies so we could give lots of hugs & play with the four there. They each had some type of birth defect but that didn't stop them from laughing when we tickled them or trying to dance with us. It melted our hearts when one threw a kiss as we left...leaving behind large bags of candy & milk.

Tse Family
We took a side road that led to a small group of corregated steel homes and there met the Tse family. To say they welcomed us would be a gross understatement. They opened a bag of cookies, filled a bowl with candies and an made a fresh pot of tea. They beamed as they showed us the carboard walls where they displayed their children's school awards. Unlike most, they had five kids...one of which , Alice is being sponsored by one of Renay's friends so she'd asked us to visit them. While we waited for Alice to come from school, they proudly walked us around their vegetable farm where two of their sons were gathering lettuce heads. We also visited their neighbor's pig & chicken farm and got a close up look at their two wheel tractor. When Alice came, she brought out her report cards & newest awards. She was delighted to speak a bit of English and wanted to see pictures of America. She is studying computers...and I could only marvel at the vast span between the computer world and this sparse, dark, dirt floor, ramshackle of a building that was her home. When the cold really settled in...not that we hadn't been cold the whole time...we said our good bye & then drove Alice back to her school in town (about 20 minutes away) where she stays coming home usually only once or twice a month. It cost about $1000 for room, board & books per year which her sponsor provides. Her parents hoped Renay would find sponsors for their sons but Chairman Li told us that since they had not follwed the suggested one child rule, they should deal with the consequences of their decision. My guess is that those boys have a rough life ahead of them.