Update 39
We took off early today to go deeper into the mountains...farther into this culture & away from civilization...to Batad. Rog forgot about being Mr. Careful and climbed on top of the jeepney...I did not as someone had to live for the grandkids! We chugged up and around and down the mountains on roads that clung to the side. Rog said it was exhilarating and the views were fabulous. At the end of the road was a shop where we "rented" a walking stick and wonders of wonders--I got a cold Coke Zero! The rest of the way was on foot. We passed many workers who were building more road and then onto a narrow but well worn path...the one the Batad villagers use & have used for many years. About an hour later, we came out of the woods and everywhere you looked...terraces! I'd read if you'd line them up side by side, they'd reach half way around the world...and now I can fathom that. The small village of Batad was a bit farther and placed int eh center of the terraces. We stopped part way down the mountain at Hillside Inn where we gladly took off our hiking boots and sat admiring the panoramic view while we ate...Rog a Middle Eastern dish & me, pizza (well kinda like) and a Coke Light...who'd of thunk? Hearing the kids at a nearby school, I took off to check it out. The first grade teacher invited me in where the 22 kids were quietly copying from the board. They greeted me saying, "Welcome visitor" & then said the ABC's & counted to 10 for me. The classroom was neat with birthdays posted, neat work displayed and two large signs:
Lazy hands make a poor man but diligent hands bring wealth --If a little money does not go out, great money will not come in. Some lessons are never to early to learn! I peeked into the oldest kid's classroom--a 5th & 6th combination & only saw about 15 kids. I later heard only about half of them will go to Banaue for HS. So if you do the math, probably only 3 or 4 of the 22 first graders I met will go to HS.
We put our boots back on and step by step...each unique in size, shape & depth...we lowered ourselves into the midst of the terraces...surrounded on all sides...engulfed. Seeing them is one thing...being in them another. Almost mystical. We sat down often to just let it all soak in--okay, to rest. We watched the workers setting out seedlings, rebuilding the moats & trimming brush off the stone terraces. Endless. TIme less. Back at our Inn, we visited with 2 other couples are age...both guys had graduated from U of M...it is such a small world! One couple was from Montreal. The other from Boston...they travel about 50% of the year volunteering often with IVHQ. We swapped travel highlights & email addresses...who knows, we may end up travel with them sometime! Kindred souls all suffering from the same disease our Galapagos buddy labeled FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out).
Update 40
When we opened our hotel door this morning, brilliant sunshine lit up paddies so they looked like mirrors! Such beauty. We took off hiking in a different direction, never tiring of the views...only tiring of the up & down terrain. This route took us past the school. We sat down to rest & read the mission statement posted on the building...chuckling about the hours we both were required to work on them and how many buzz words had drifted even here: life long learners, student centered learning, productive citizens, highest potential. The first grade teacher I'd met earlier somehow noticed us & came out to say Hi & invited us in again. We asked if she wanted us to play a few games & she readily agreed so soon we were teaching the kids Head, Shoulder, Knees & Toes & Doggie, Doggie Where's Your Bone? and Itsy, Bitsy Spider. All of us loved it. The teacher wrote down the words saying she was glad to learn new games. Then the second grade teacher came & invited to her class...so again, we played games. Kids & classrooms are always a treat for me! (Loved this sign posted in the 2nd grade class: If you always spoon feed kids, they will only learn the shape of the spoon.) At noon, we headed back up & around the mountain so we could catch the jeepney that would be waiting for us around 3. It was a slow, grueling climb out....but it had been so worth it! We arrived back in Banaue in time for dinner at the Los Vegas restaurant where a Filipino was performing Elvis songs...pretty good impersonation really...and Rog earned brownie points by asking me to dance. Then we ran into some kids we'd met a couple times already & made arrangements to meet up tomorrow at 9 and head to some hot springs. It is neat how quickly fellow travelers bond regardless of age or nationalities. Wish it were more like that in the "real world."
Wednesday, February 11, 2015
38
Update 38
Learned much about the Ifugao religion from a local man who manned one of the many souvenir shops...without even asking! He told us:
they pray to many gods but all point up to the highest god, Kabunyan which points up to the same God as Christians. They freely accept both religions as both have the same basic value system and both believe in a higher power that watches over us.
A God for all.
Learned much about the Ifugao religion from a local man who manned one of the many souvenir shops...without even asking! He told us:
they pray to many gods but all point up to the highest god, Kabunyan which points up to the same God as Christians. They freely accept both religions as both have the same basic value system and both believe in a higher power that watches over us.
A God for all.
36 & 37
Update 36
It was packing time this morning, we are leaving our suitcases at CG & just traveling with our backpacks for the coming week. Cleaning up our condo was quick as it was basically bare. We climbed into the back of the CG van & by 9:30 was singing Onward Christian Solders ( in Tagalog--how do their words fit the melody so well?? Though I couldn't understand the sermon--the tone was accusatory--seems that's the norm in many places we've been to. Jaybee was translating for Rog--main message was be a vibrant & active Christian. After church, there was Sun School for the boys & we chatted with the minister. Then the boys piled inthe van & began chanting "Mang Inasal" & rocking the van...we'd told El we'd like to take the kids & staff to Man Inasal...where you get a 1/4 chicken, soup, drink & alllll you can eat rice! Word was out & the kids were revved up. What a blast to watch them mow down! It's a wonder there's any more rice left in Antipolo. 29 meals for less than $75. Sun p.m. was game time till about 4 when all the kids disappeared & soon we were called to the basement. A farewell son erupted...& so did my tears. Kids then individually told us what they wanted to thank us for...usually referring to us as Papa Bear & Mama Bear...though one of the girls choked up saying she felt like she had a Mommy & Daddy during our stay. They thanked us for teaching English, reading, computer learning games, fixing, painting, buying fruit,playing cards, basketball net & dinner out. But mostly they thanked us for being there each day & showing them we cared. They recognized we could have been off playing but choose to be with them. Small things in small ways...a Mother Teresa saying. Both of us tried to tell them what was in our hearts...we hope our words somehow help them heal a bit & build a stronger foundation to build their Christian life on. Then everyone circled us laying their hands on us & prayed. And once more we had to say good bye to people we'd come to love. Giving up hot showers, sleeping on 3" foam beds, washing our clothes out in a bucket, barking dogs & noisy motorcycles, sucing in exhaust & burning rubbish...actually seems like a very small price to pay for the richness of our time at CG.
El took us to catch a Manila bound taxi which took us to a bus station. And as if we weren't already feeling torn--Lydia, the cook & her son showed up...more thank you's, hugs & prayers...and a pillow with Psalms 40:1-2 ...God is our Refuge & Strength an ever present help in trouble. Therefore, we will not fear. We boarded the 10 pm bus headed for Banaue...and after reading the notes the kids had written us, we closed our eyes a bit overwhelmed by the day...hours later, we still had our eyes closed but it was nearly impossible to sleep as the plastic covered bus seats meant we kept slipping nearly off the seat. 9 hours & several cat naps later, we arrived at Banaue.
Update 37
As soon as we got to Banaue we saw them: the ancient (2000 yr old) & spectacular rice terraces that creeped up the mountains like a giant stairway...proving the most basic need for the Ifugao people. All built by hand without the aid of animals--unlike Machu Pichu where llama were used. Though it was named a World Heritage site in 1995, little has been done to assure their future & with more & more youth choosing to leave the labor intensive & subsistence life...like in China...their future is uncertain. Banaue is a busy town with many trekkers filling the hotels and keeping the local guides busy as they are necessary to traverse the vast mountain area. We wanted to learn more about the local Ifugao tribe so we went to the Banaue museum. Luckily, we were the only ones there & the 23 yr old who worked there willingly spent an hour or so answering our questions & explaining much about the culture. He himself had grown up in a traditional Ifugao hut...until his Dad deserted his family...then he had to find a job to help support his family. Soon he will be working in a local coal mine...crossing himself for safety each time he goes down. Here are a few things he shared:
-Ifugao men were heavily tattooed since the they were once head hunters & the tattoo could ID them if they lost their head. This practice in the 60's.
-Ifugao honor (not worship) their ancestors by putting their deceased body in a chair high above the hearth, picking off the dried body until only bones remained. Then the skull was mounted on the house & bones placed in nearby box. An animal is sacrificed (richer = bigger animal) as an offering & the meat is eaten by the villagers.
-Beetle nuts are chewed to give them energy & also it increases their body temperature needed in this colder area that sometimes dips to 10C. Still common as we see red teeth smiling at us often & NO SPITTING (the juice which leaves a permanent red stain) signs everywhere.
-Terraces are family owned & passed down to oldest son...sometimes 2 oldest depending size. No new ones are being built as all permanent water sources are being used. A rice farmer pays 50P ($1.25) a year income taxes. Also prop taxes but not sure $$.
-Rice here can only be planted once a year (vs. 2 or 3 times where fertilizer is used in the low lands). Rice is not exported as they can't grow enough here for their needs.
-Goats, pigs, ckns & dogs are raised for meat.
-Hoes are built on stilts with hearth on ground level, sleeping area on main floor with rice stored above that. Roofs are a dried grass...until recently when steel replaced most.
-Clothes use to be made from bark fibers & weaved...woman in striped skirts & men only wearing a long loin cloth (they call their lower ties..vs our neck tie)...and both carried better nut bag with long strings used to record days by tying one knot a day.
He told us much more ...but my favorite was his big grin when he said he loves going to visit his Grandpa who still lives in a traditional home... and being able to wear only his loin cloth again. We finished up the day watching a traditional dancing performance. Had to notice how little movement it contained--but after spending their days climbing the terraces & working in the paddies all day...they probably didn't have much energy to waste on dancing!
It was packing time this morning, we are leaving our suitcases at CG & just traveling with our backpacks for the coming week. Cleaning up our condo was quick as it was basically bare. We climbed into the back of the CG van & by 9:30 was singing Onward Christian Solders ( in Tagalog--how do their words fit the melody so well?? Though I couldn't understand the sermon--the tone was accusatory--seems that's the norm in many places we've been to. Jaybee was translating for Rog--main message was be a vibrant & active Christian. After church, there was Sun School for the boys & we chatted with the minister. Then the boys piled inthe van & began chanting "Mang Inasal" & rocking the van...we'd told El we'd like to take the kids & staff to Man Inasal...where you get a 1/4 chicken, soup, drink & alllll you can eat rice! Word was out & the kids were revved up. What a blast to watch them mow down! It's a wonder there's any more rice left in Antipolo. 29 meals for less than $75. Sun p.m. was game time till about 4 when all the kids disappeared & soon we were called to the basement. A farewell son erupted...& so did my tears. Kids then individually told us what they wanted to thank us for...usually referring to us as Papa Bear & Mama Bear...though one of the girls choked up saying she felt like she had a Mommy & Daddy during our stay. They thanked us for teaching English, reading, computer learning games, fixing, painting, buying fruit,playing cards, basketball net & dinner out. But mostly they thanked us for being there each day & showing them we cared. They recognized we could have been off playing but choose to be with them. Small things in small ways...a Mother Teresa saying. Both of us tried to tell them what was in our hearts...we hope our words somehow help them heal a bit & build a stronger foundation to build their Christian life on. Then everyone circled us laying their hands on us & prayed. And once more we had to say good bye to people we'd come to love. Giving up hot showers, sleeping on 3" foam beds, washing our clothes out in a bucket, barking dogs & noisy motorcycles, sucing in exhaust & burning rubbish...actually seems like a very small price to pay for the richness of our time at CG.
El took us to catch a Manila bound taxi which took us to a bus station. And as if we weren't already feeling torn--Lydia, the cook & her son showed up...more thank you's, hugs & prayers...and a pillow with Psalms 40:1-2 ...God is our Refuge & Strength an ever present help in trouble. Therefore, we will not fear. We boarded the 10 pm bus headed for Banaue...and after reading the notes the kids had written us, we closed our eyes a bit overwhelmed by the day...hours later, we still had our eyes closed but it was nearly impossible to sleep as the plastic covered bus seats meant we kept slipping nearly off the seat. 9 hours & several cat naps later, we arrived at Banaue.
Update 37
As soon as we got to Banaue we saw them: the ancient (2000 yr old) & spectacular rice terraces that creeped up the mountains like a giant stairway...proving the most basic need for the Ifugao people. All built by hand without the aid of animals--unlike Machu Pichu where llama were used. Though it was named a World Heritage site in 1995, little has been done to assure their future & with more & more youth choosing to leave the labor intensive & subsistence life...like in China...their future is uncertain. Banaue is a busy town with many trekkers filling the hotels and keeping the local guides busy as they are necessary to traverse the vast mountain area. We wanted to learn more about the local Ifugao tribe so we went to the Banaue museum. Luckily, we were the only ones there & the 23 yr old who worked there willingly spent an hour or so answering our questions & explaining much about the culture. He himself had grown up in a traditional Ifugao hut...until his Dad deserted his family...then he had to find a job to help support his family. Soon he will be working in a local coal mine...crossing himself for safety each time he goes down. Here are a few things he shared:
-Ifugao men were heavily tattooed since the they were once head hunters & the tattoo could ID them if they lost their head. This practice in the 60's.
-Ifugao honor (not worship) their ancestors by putting their deceased body in a chair high above the hearth, picking off the dried body until only bones remained. Then the skull was mounted on the house & bones placed in nearby box. An animal is sacrificed (richer = bigger animal) as an offering & the meat is eaten by the villagers.
-Beetle nuts are chewed to give them energy & also it increases their body temperature needed in this colder area that sometimes dips to 10C. Still common as we see red teeth smiling at us often & NO SPITTING (the juice which leaves a permanent red stain) signs everywhere.
-Terraces are family owned & passed down to oldest son...sometimes 2 oldest depending size. No new ones are being built as all permanent water sources are being used. A rice farmer pays 50P ($1.25) a year income taxes. Also prop taxes but not sure $$.
-Rice here can only be planted once a year (vs. 2 or 3 times where fertilizer is used in the low lands). Rice is not exported as they can't grow enough here for their needs.
-Goats, pigs, ckns & dogs are raised for meat.
-Hoes are built on stilts with hearth on ground level, sleeping area on main floor with rice stored above that. Roofs are a dried grass...until recently when steel replaced most.
-Clothes use to be made from bark fibers & weaved...woman in striped skirts & men only wearing a long loin cloth (they call their lower ties..vs our neck tie)...and both carried better nut bag with long strings used to record days by tying one knot a day.
He told us much more ...but my favorite was his big grin when he said he loves going to visit his Grandpa who still lives in a traditional home... and being able to wear only his loin cloth again. We finished up the day watching a traditional dancing performance. Had to notice how little movement it contained--but after spending their days climbing the terraces & working in the paddies all day...they probably didn't have much energy to waste on dancing!
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