Final Thoughts on China
This had been our hardest trip...language barrier, cold...our quick exit...but mostly seeing people in such desperate need of water, heat, education & mostly acceptance. I felt I had so little to offer and what I did was but a drop in a bucket that seemed to have holes in it. Their own determination to improve was the brightest beam of hope and witnessing that was what inspired me to do whatever I could. I won't forget the joy on the faces of the old & the love the children showered on me. I loved our team and felt each gave their all so we had accomplished the most we could.
China itself was a wonder...acient like I'd never seen or felt...the Great Wall, the Terra Cotta Warriors, the tombs, the Stone Forest. When we speak of old we say hundreds, they say thousands. And yet amidst that old are islands of very new...solar heat...bullet train... amazing roads...buildings with unique architecture. And the forest of highrise buildings going up...up...up. In China the crane (bird) stands for longevity but today it seems to mean future as they are thousands cranes (the structure) creating the new China. So many we met are hoping and looking forward to that better future. And as in all the countries we've traveled to...their crown of jewels are the people: helpful, happy, hopeful, curious, caring and so friendly to us...and the shear number of people there is hard to grasp. China may be full of walls around cities & homes, but they sure opened a warm & welcoming door for us and I'm so glad we entered!!!
Monday, March 26, 2012
21 and a quick return
Replanting Chinese Style
Chinese seem to do everything in huge numbers...it's amazing how many trees have been planted...in every nook & cranny...on the roadsides, in the medians, all around the factories, up & down the mountains. Why don't we do that in USA??
Forbidden City
26 emperors enjoyed a huge chuck of land in the middle of Beijing filled with ornate pagodas & massive halls and a beautiful garden. My favorite was the marble boat! Those emperors sure knew how to pamper themselves! It was by far the most populated tourist site we've been to with about 90% Chinese...but also we saw more Caucasians than we've seen anywhere else!
Lama Temple
The smell of insense was everywhere as many worshipers were waving handfulls of burning sticks turning to face each of the directions & then knelling in front of the Buddha. There were many side halls with graphic statues of hell, ancestors & more Buddhas. One Buddha was built in 1748 from one single trunk of white sandal wood and stood 26 meters tall!
Fresh Fish
So they we were, eating at a fairly nice Beijing restaurant...Rog spotted a fish net leaning on a tree right in front of the window & wondered why it would be there. Several nice cars were driving by...and then a bike with a tank stopped in front of the window. A man in a suit who appeared to be the restaurant owner, went outside and soon a basket of fish had been pulled from the tank, weighed & then seemed to disappear. After we finished eating, we went outside & looked around. Mystery solved. The fish had been dumped into a fish tank that was right under the restaurant... now we knew what the net was for and how they kept fish fresh! So here in the most modern of Chinese cities...we saw what we saw in the most ancient of Chinese cities!!
Mom
A surreal feeling surrounded me as I read the email in the lobby of a Beijing hotel about my Mom dying. I knew I had to go home. I said a quick prayer that I could get home quickly and withing 20 minutes we were getting into a cab that was litterally on the sidewalk in front of our hotel. Somehow the cab driver must have known we were in a hurry--though we had no way of telling him...he drove like a maniac passing everything on the right, left & even on the margin. Rog asked me to quit praying so hard. Two hours later, we were on a plane...thanks to the counter clerk & strangers that let us use their phones & computers. After we settled in...I started to chuckle as I realized that Mom had always been one to just hang up on you when she was done with a phone conversation...never wasting time to say good bye...and once again...she didn't say goodbye. Before I left for China I had teased her saying "Don't you die while I'm in China." She had answered, "Don't you make me promise you that!" And I knew, she was eager to get to Heaven and I would not have wanted her to wait any longer than she had already waited. Just 30 hours after I read the email...we were home.
Chinese seem to do everything in huge numbers...it's amazing how many trees have been planted...in every nook & cranny...on the roadsides, in the medians, all around the factories, up & down the mountains. Why don't we do that in USA??
Forbidden City
26 emperors enjoyed a huge chuck of land in the middle of Beijing filled with ornate pagodas & massive halls and a beautiful garden. My favorite was the marble boat! Those emperors sure knew how to pamper themselves! It was by far the most populated tourist site we've been to with about 90% Chinese...but also we saw more Caucasians than we've seen anywhere else!
Lama Temple
The smell of insense was everywhere as many worshipers were waving handfulls of burning sticks turning to face each of the directions & then knelling in front of the Buddha. There were many side halls with graphic statues of hell, ancestors & more Buddhas. One Buddha was built in 1748 from one single trunk of white sandal wood and stood 26 meters tall!
Fresh Fish
So they we were, eating at a fairly nice Beijing restaurant...Rog spotted a fish net leaning on a tree right in front of the window & wondered why it would be there. Several nice cars were driving by...and then a bike with a tank stopped in front of the window. A man in a suit who appeared to be the restaurant owner, went outside and soon a basket of fish had been pulled from the tank, weighed & then seemed to disappear. After we finished eating, we went outside & looked around. Mystery solved. The fish had been dumped into a fish tank that was right under the restaurant... now we knew what the net was for and how they kept fish fresh! So here in the most modern of Chinese cities...we saw what we saw in the most ancient of Chinese cities!!
Mom
A surreal feeling surrounded me as I read the email in the lobby of a Beijing hotel about my Mom dying. I knew I had to go home. I said a quick prayer that I could get home quickly and withing 20 minutes we were getting into a cab that was litterally on the sidewalk in front of our hotel. Somehow the cab driver must have known we were in a hurry--though we had no way of telling him...he drove like a maniac passing everything on the right, left & even on the margin. Rog asked me to quit praying so hard. Two hours later, we were on a plane...thanks to the counter clerk & strangers that let us use their phones & computers. After we settled in...I started to chuckle as I realized that Mom had always been one to just hang up on you when she was done with a phone conversation...never wasting time to say good bye...and once again...she didn't say goodbye. Before I left for China I had teased her saying "Don't you die while I'm in China." She had answered, "Don't you make me promise you that!" And I knew, she was eager to get to Heaven and I would not have wanted her to wait any longer than she had already waited. Just 30 hours after I read the email...we were home.
Friday, March 16, 2012
20
Hi from Beijing,
Just heard my mom fell and broke her hip...came out of surgery ok...but sure is hard not to be with her. Thank goodness my family is tight and have kept me informed and are surrounding her with their love & support...and giving her mine! Also just heard a tornado hit Dexter so anxious to find out more... Here in Beijing, the weather is cool, dry with smog in the city but once we left the city...beautiful blue skies...and the spectacular Great Wall!
Great Wall
Until you have seen the depth of Grand Canyon...you don't know deep and until you have seen the Great Wall...you don't know long. After climbing up to get on the wall, you look out and as far as you can see in both directions...there is more wall. And all around the wall, vast mountains fill the view...we were so fortunate to walk the wall on a day that the sun shone in a sparkling, clear sky...and in a place where we only saw about 30 other tourist!! We passed up the usual tourist site, went the extra 1 1/2 hour drive to reach Jingshanling. There many sections of the wall were the original bricks...difficult to walk but wondrous. We couldn't help but stop often just to soak up the view and take yet another picture...and rest as we had to climb up & down countless steps...some of which were crumbling...some gigantic. The guard towers crowned the crest of the mountains and some were two stories high giving you an awesome view...and another picture. A bit of history: the first section of the wall was built in 221 BC and the last section about 2000 years later. Small sections were built at various times and finally all connected making it 5000km long. Rebuilding actually started around 1600 AD. In spite of all the effort, expense & time...it failed to keep out the Mongols under Genghis Khan.
Attacking Mongols
We too, were attacked by the mongols! As we made our way up to the wall, two older ladies joined us, telling us they were local mongolians farmers and started asking us questions like: where are you from? (America is wonderful) how many children? (You are so fortunate and rich) how many grandchildren (You like us...we grandmas too) how old are you? (you look only 40...later others would say we looked only 30)...etc. Finally, we told them we didn't want a guide...No No they said, we are not guides...but kept pointing out this & that. When we got firm...then they tried selling us souvenirs from their backpacks...then drinks. After we said firming (but with a smile) MaoMao (No No)...they finally left. But others--all saying they were local mongolian farmers & asking the same questions & selling the same ware-- were waiting at several of the guard towers. We did feel bad that they had climbed so far...and there were so few to buy from them but...
Climbing Down
As is so often the case in China, the way up was very showy...but the way down was a dirt trail that was hardly marked & littered.
Tunnels
Almost as incredible as building the Great Wall, was building the tunnel right under the same mountains. By car, it took us about 5 minutes to go through.
Man on Train to Beijing (by Roger)
We were delivered to the railway station by the owner of our hotel to catch the 9:48 train that would pass through Ping Yao on its way to Beijing. As we were searching for our spot on the sleeper to Beijing, a man asked if we needed some help. He spoke English very well and seemed truly interested in speaking with us. We found out that he was retired from working in public health and was traveling with some of his family to Beijing. His berth was near to ours so when we woke up the next morning he sat near us and asked many questions. He was especially interested in Native Americans and what their lives were like now in America. In China their are many ethnic groups and the country seems to celebrate the differences in culture that together make up the country. He also was interested in the leprosy villages that we visited. He had taught himself to speak Esperanto (an international language that was intended to be used the way that English is now used as an international business language). He asked about the prices of many things in the U.S.-Cars, houses, food, etc. He thought that housing was too expensive in China and Mcdonald's food is not healthy and also too expensive. He was very grateful to Americans who had helped him when he got lost while in Atlanta, Ga. while attending Emery University. The people made sure he found his way back even though they had to go far out of their way to help him. When he returned to China he wrote an article about his experience and sent it to the radio station. To his surprise, they broadcast it. He was sincerely grateful and was anxious to help us in return for the help that he had received.
He also spoke about the drought in China and how the north of China is also too dry (almost no snow this year). He told us about Buddhist monks that are recruited to "work" as monks but only play the role for 8 hours a day, then spend the rest of their time in secular life (while visiting the Lama Temple in Beijing we saw monks slipping cell phones from under their robes-maybe a little distraction from their prayers?)
Christian on train to Beijing (by Roger)
A young Chinese girl in the berth below Jane told us that she is a Christian and then she started explaining Christian beliefs to our new friend. Her bag was printed in Chinese with the name of her business, Gospel Photography. She told us that it is now possible to buy a Bible in China. Apparently it is becoming more acceptable to express individual beliefs but not always advisable!
Just heard my mom fell and broke her hip...came out of surgery ok...but sure is hard not to be with her. Thank goodness my family is tight and have kept me informed and are surrounding her with their love & support...and giving her mine! Also just heard a tornado hit Dexter so anxious to find out more... Here in Beijing, the weather is cool, dry with smog in the city but once we left the city...beautiful blue skies...and the spectacular Great Wall!
Great Wall
Until you have seen the depth of Grand Canyon...you don't know deep and until you have seen the Great Wall...you don't know long. After climbing up to get on the wall, you look out and as far as you can see in both directions...there is more wall. And all around the wall, vast mountains fill the view...we were so fortunate to walk the wall on a day that the sun shone in a sparkling, clear sky...and in a place where we only saw about 30 other tourist!! We passed up the usual tourist site, went the extra 1 1/2 hour drive to reach Jingshanling. There many sections of the wall were the original bricks...difficult to walk but wondrous. We couldn't help but stop often just to soak up the view and take yet another picture...and rest as we had to climb up & down countless steps...some of which were crumbling...some gigantic. The guard towers crowned the crest of the mountains and some were two stories high giving you an awesome view...and another picture. A bit of history: the first section of the wall was built in 221 BC and the last section about 2000 years later. Small sections were built at various times and finally all connected making it 5000km long. Rebuilding actually started around 1600 AD. In spite of all the effort, expense & time...it failed to keep out the Mongols under Genghis Khan.
Attacking Mongols
We too, were attacked by the mongols! As we made our way up to the wall, two older ladies joined us, telling us they were local mongolians farmers and started asking us questions like: where are you from? (America is wonderful) how many children? (You are so fortunate and rich) how many grandchildren (You like us...we grandmas too) how old are you? (you look only 40...later others would say we looked only 30)...etc. Finally, we told them we didn't want a guide...No No they said, we are not guides...but kept pointing out this & that. When we got firm...then they tried selling us souvenirs from their backpacks...then drinks. After we said firming (but with a smile) MaoMao (No No)...they finally left. But others--all saying they were local mongolian farmers & asking the same questions & selling the same ware-- were waiting at several of the guard towers. We did feel bad that they had climbed so far...and there were so few to buy from them but...
Climbing Down
As is so often the case in China, the way up was very showy...but the way down was a dirt trail that was hardly marked & littered.
Tunnels
Almost as incredible as building the Great Wall, was building the tunnel right under the same mountains. By car, it took us about 5 minutes to go through.
Man on Train to Beijing (by Roger)
We were delivered to the railway station by the owner of our hotel to catch the 9:48 train that would pass through Ping Yao on its way to Beijing. As we were searching for our spot on the sleeper to Beijing, a man asked if we needed some help. He spoke English very well and seemed truly interested in speaking with us. We found out that he was retired from working in public health and was traveling with some of his family to Beijing. His berth was near to ours so when we woke up the next morning he sat near us and asked many questions. He was especially interested in Native Americans and what their lives were like now in America. In China their are many ethnic groups and the country seems to celebrate the differences in culture that together make up the country. He also was interested in the leprosy villages that we visited. He had taught himself to speak Esperanto (an international language that was intended to be used the way that English is now used as an international business language). He asked about the prices of many things in the U.S.-Cars, houses, food, etc. He thought that housing was too expensive in China and Mcdonald's food is not healthy and also too expensive. He was very grateful to Americans who had helped him when he got lost while in Atlanta, Ga. while attending Emery University. The people made sure he found his way back even though they had to go far out of their way to help him. When he returned to China he wrote an article about his experience and sent it to the radio station. To his surprise, they broadcast it. He was sincerely grateful and was anxious to help us in return for the help that he had received.
He also spoke about the drought in China and how the north of China is also too dry (almost no snow this year). He told us about Buddhist monks that are recruited to "work" as monks but only play the role for 8 hours a day, then spend the rest of their time in secular life (while visiting the Lama Temple in Beijing we saw monks slipping cell phones from under their robes-maybe a little distraction from their prayers?)
Christian on train to Beijing (by Roger)
A young Chinese girl in the berth below Jane told us that she is a Christian and then she started explaining Christian beliefs to our new friend. Her bag was printed in Chinese with the name of her business, Gospel Photography. She told us that it is now possible to buy a Bible in China. Apparently it is becoming more acceptable to express individual beliefs but not always advisable!
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
19
Hi from Pingyao
Last day here so we're making plans for next stops. We'll be heading out on the night train to Beijing later today, stay there 4 days, then to Sanya, Hainan for 5 days and finally to HongKong to visit my college roomie before heading home March 29. Anyways, that's the plan. Hope your plans are going well & all is good. Here's the latest with us:
Wang Family Castle
Huge, sprawling castle that housed the Wang family & servants for generations...endless archways led to unique courtyards with bedrooms all around...each area a bit higher on the mountains... with a long bridge spanning a valley...finally reaching the top where a lovely pagoda overlooked the whole castle setting. Several years ago, many of the family members who had moved away, came back for a reunion...during which as a family they decided to turn their castle into a museum to retain the virtue of their family. Most of the original furniture remains as well as numerous family photos. Two rooms were filled with family trees...one of which showed 21 generations! It also houses several art collections. Couldn't count how many rooms...and almost couldn't find our way out!
Underground Weapon Storage
After entering what appeared to be a farmer's home that was built into the mountain (just like many others in the area)...we were led into a secret, dark tunnel with only clay walls that went down about 9 meters in a maze about 250 meter long that included several traps, ambush dug outs, bamboo communication sites...all built to hid weapons. A guide was required--how else could we find our way out?? It was built over 1000 yrs ago...and since no enemy army ever came near...it was never needed but makes an interesting tourist site today!
Shuanglin Temple
Another temple filled with images of Buddha, gods and also ancestors. Can you imagine that in 1000 yrs, people would pray & light incense in front of a statue of you?? Most of these types of temples were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution so one so well preserved is rare. This one also had vivid paintings as well as the 50 armed goddess. We'd biked the 6 km to get there...so we walked through it at a slow pace amazed at how old, dusty (it's forbidden to dust) and detailed each statue was...one room alone had over 100 statues!
Chinese Helper (by Roger)
We rented bicycles and rode around Ping Yao for the day. We left the walled city for awhile to visit an ATM then returned to the old city and followed a celebrating marriage procession through part of the city (a brass band in the back of a truck blaring away while firecrackers were prepared then set off. Close behind the truck was the veiled bride and the groom (chauffeured in a fancy car and smooching in the back seat). Then we had a flat tire on the far side of town. We could walk it back but thought that maybe we might find someone with a tire pump...soon a woman with a friendly smile directed us to a courtyard where we found no one but found out later that it was the home of the tire repairman. As we were leaving the courtyard another man just outside the gate indicated that we should wait as he also needed tire repair on his motorbike taxi. He made several calls from his cell phone while we waited for about half an hour, then a man rode up on an old bicycle with a couple of bicycle tires hanging over his shoulder. The man who had called him pointed to our bicycle and he immediately started to make repairs on it, soon he had the tube patched and refilled with air. He said we owed 5 yuan (less than a dollar). We were glad to pay him double as a tip and off we went. Once again we we felt grateful for the kindness and consideration given us by the local people as we negotiate China without the benefit of knowing their language.
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire (by Roger)
A favorite snack here is roasted nuts. Walnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, etc. are just better when roasted! Many ingenious devices are used to keep the nuts moving as they are slowly roasted over charcoal. Most look like something I might put together using materials out of a scrap heap using little more than a welder. It made me think about the song that we sing at Christmas time. Chestnuts roasting on an open fire. Jack Frost nipping at your nose. Yuletide carols being sung by a choir, and tots dressed up like eskimos. Everybody knows- some turkey and some mistletoe helps to make the season bright. Tiny tots with their eyes all aglow will find it hard to sleep tonight. You probably know the rest better that I...but now we have seen tiny tots dressed up like eskimos (in the mountains) and also tasted roasted chestnuts. It seems strange that they have these elements of Christmas but most have no knowledge of Christian beliefs.
View from our Breakfast Table
While eating our boiled eggs & white bread (not toasted)...what is called a Western Breakfast...a vendor on a bicycle with a tank & wagon behind pulled up right next to the window beside us. Our hotel lady ran out and soon the vendor pulled out a live fish from his tank, our hotel lady nodded...and before our eyes, that fish was gutted & scaled in a matter of minutes. Somebody--not us--was going to have a fresh fish meal...& the local dog licked up what was left on the pavement. The next morning as we ate breakfast, a mountain of huge coal chucks was dumped right in the same spot. Not exactly Breakfast at Tiffany's...but breakfast in China.
Lost in the City
We rode with a young Chinese girl in a taxi so of course, learned a bit more about China. She had graduated from a University & said she could not find a good job in China...which is a common problem. She said maybe if you go to a big city you can get a job...and many do leave home promising to send money home...but soon find themselves buying fashionable clothes and other things exciting they could not find in their rural villages...and soon have no money to send home. She said, "They get lost in the big cities."
Plenty of Help
Walking by a Pingyao store front, we heard much laughter & chatter coming from within. In checking it out, we discovered the small store...about the size of a one car garage...had 30 clerks ready to serve...even though they had only two customers & from the looks of the almost empty streets, they weren't getting many more. Bad for business...but great for the clerks who were having so much fun together!!
Balloon Lady
One of the things I love most is spending a bit of time with little ones...so I always have a pocket full of balloons & whenever I see a little one...I stop & give him/her a balloon. Their smiles, puzzled looks or shy "xiexie" (thank you) always tickles me.
Last day here so we're making plans for next stops. We'll be heading out on the night train to Beijing later today, stay there 4 days, then to Sanya, Hainan for 5 days and finally to HongKong to visit my college roomie before heading home March 29. Anyways, that's the plan. Hope your plans are going well & all is good. Here's the latest with us:
Wang Family Castle
Huge, sprawling castle that housed the Wang family & servants for generations...endless archways led to unique courtyards with bedrooms all around...each area a bit higher on the mountains... with a long bridge spanning a valley...finally reaching the top where a lovely pagoda overlooked the whole castle setting. Several years ago, many of the family members who had moved away, came back for a reunion...during which as a family they decided to turn their castle into a museum to retain the virtue of their family. Most of the original furniture remains as well as numerous family photos. Two rooms were filled with family trees...one of which showed 21 generations! It also houses several art collections. Couldn't count how many rooms...and almost couldn't find our way out!
Underground Weapon Storage
After entering what appeared to be a farmer's home that was built into the mountain (just like many others in the area)...we were led into a secret, dark tunnel with only clay walls that went down about 9 meters in a maze about 250 meter long that included several traps, ambush dug outs, bamboo communication sites...all built to hid weapons. A guide was required--how else could we find our way out?? It was built over 1000 yrs ago...and since no enemy army ever came near...it was never needed but makes an interesting tourist site today!
Shuanglin Temple
Another temple filled with images of Buddha, gods and also ancestors. Can you imagine that in 1000 yrs, people would pray & light incense in front of a statue of you?? Most of these types of temples were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution so one so well preserved is rare. This one also had vivid paintings as well as the 50 armed goddess. We'd biked the 6 km to get there...so we walked through it at a slow pace amazed at how old, dusty (it's forbidden to dust) and detailed each statue was...one room alone had over 100 statues!
Chinese Helper (by Roger)
We rented bicycles and rode around Ping Yao for the day. We left the walled city for awhile to visit an ATM then returned to the old city and followed a celebrating marriage procession through part of the city (a brass band in the back of a truck blaring away while firecrackers were prepared then set off. Close behind the truck was the veiled bride and the groom (chauffeured in a fancy car and smooching in the back seat). Then we had a flat tire on the far side of town. We could walk it back but thought that maybe we might find someone with a tire pump...soon a woman with a friendly smile directed us to a courtyard where we found no one but found out later that it was the home of the tire repairman. As we were leaving the courtyard another man just outside the gate indicated that we should wait as he also needed tire repair on his motorbike taxi. He made several calls from his cell phone while we waited for about half an hour, then a man rode up on an old bicycle with a couple of bicycle tires hanging over his shoulder. The man who had called him pointed to our bicycle and he immediately started to make repairs on it, soon he had the tube patched and refilled with air. He said we owed 5 yuan (less than a dollar). We were glad to pay him double as a tip and off we went. Once again we we felt grateful for the kindness and consideration given us by the local people as we negotiate China without the benefit of knowing their language.
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire (by Roger)
A favorite snack here is roasted nuts. Walnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, etc. are just better when roasted! Many ingenious devices are used to keep the nuts moving as they are slowly roasted over charcoal. Most look like something I might put together using materials out of a scrap heap using little more than a welder. It made me think about the song that we sing at Christmas time. Chestnuts roasting on an open fire. Jack Frost nipping at your nose. Yuletide carols being sung by a choir, and tots dressed up like eskimos. Everybody knows- some turkey and some mistletoe helps to make the season bright. Tiny tots with their eyes all aglow will find it hard to sleep tonight. You probably know the rest better that I...but now we have seen tiny tots dressed up like eskimos (in the mountains) and also tasted roasted chestnuts. It seems strange that they have these elements of Christmas but most have no knowledge of Christian beliefs.
View from our Breakfast Table
While eating our boiled eggs & white bread (not toasted)...what is called a Western Breakfast...a vendor on a bicycle with a tank & wagon behind pulled up right next to the window beside us. Our hotel lady ran out and soon the vendor pulled out a live fish from his tank, our hotel lady nodded...and before our eyes, that fish was gutted & scaled in a matter of minutes. Somebody--not us--was going to have a fresh fish meal...& the local dog licked up what was left on the pavement. The next morning as we ate breakfast, a mountain of huge coal chucks was dumped right in the same spot. Not exactly Breakfast at Tiffany's...but breakfast in China.
Lost in the City
We rode with a young Chinese girl in a taxi so of course, learned a bit more about China. She had graduated from a University & said she could not find a good job in China...which is a common problem. She said maybe if you go to a big city you can get a job...and many do leave home promising to send money home...but soon find themselves buying fashionable clothes and other things exciting they could not find in their rural villages...and soon have no money to send home. She said, "They get lost in the big cities."
Plenty of Help
Walking by a Pingyao store front, we heard much laughter & chatter coming from within. In checking it out, we discovered the small store...about the size of a one car garage...had 30 clerks ready to serve...even though they had only two customers & from the looks of the almost empty streets, they weren't getting many more. Bad for business...but great for the clerks who were having so much fun together!!
Balloon Lady
One of the things I love most is spending a bit of time with little ones...so I always have a pocket full of balloons & whenever I see a little one...I stop & give him/her a balloon. Their smiles, puzzled looks or shy "xiexie" (thank you) always tickles me.
Sunday, March 11, 2012
18
Coolest Museum
We tried again to get to Emperor Jing Di burial site and succeeded this time. We had spent a whole day trying to get there so we were very happy to finally make it. Very few visitors had found their way so no crowds at all. Also the neatest thing about it was how they excavated the burial pits and built a museum over the top. Clear plastic flooring allows you to look down into the pit as you walk above. There were hundreds and hundreds of miniature soldiers, pigs, chickens, horses, cows, chariots, and more. The detail is amazing...even tiny quivers full of tiny arrows of the soldiers backs. Even more amazing is the fact that each of these little soldiers was dressed in beautiful silk clothing and held all the necessary equipment of the day.
Jing Di became emperor in 157 B.C. and ruled for 17 years. He ruled using the Wu Wei philosophy: Do nothing & nothing will not be done. He must of done something cause during that time he unified much of China and his rule is considered to be the pinnacle of Han Dynasty. Today over 90% of Chinese are descended from the Han people. Only a small part of the burial site is excavated...apparently an entire miniature city is buried here to serve the emperor in his next life! A special presentation at the museum included a high quality hologram that made all of the characters come alive for us as miniature chickens pecked at the ground, miniature women danced in fancy costumes and flames soared from tiny fires.
Historical Museum
We wandered among 5000+ year old artifacts and examined the 200,000 yr old skull in the Xi'an Historical Museum. Since it was the custom to bury most everything you owned to use in your next life, there is an amazing amount of items that have been excavated in Xi'an as the city dates back about 6000 years. Piles of gold coins, elaborate hair pins & buttons, decorative pots & dishes...even a cooking grill that looked just like our old hibachi!! I sincerely doubt anyone will ever look at anything we have in 5000+ years???
Train to PingYao
Moving on...we hopped a sleeper train headed for PingYao. Actually hopped is not the right word as we were herded through several gates and waiting room so it was more like pushed onto a sleeper train among thousands of others...all Chinese one of which grabbed my suitcase & carried it down two flights of steps right to the car we got on. After several people led us to our bunks...we discovered three of our bunk mates spoke English! They sat on the edge of their beds eagerly asking and answering questions. The first question was "Do you know Michaels?"--she was thrilled we had as she sold her glass candle holders to them. She asked if it was like Walmart? They told us they were proud of China's progress but felt the 60% of the population that lived in the rural area were still really poor and without much medical care. (Premier Wen Jiabao recently report wages were up 22%, Health coverage was 95% & 60 million less are paying income taxes--though he did note that was mainly in the urban area.) They also felt that there were still many challenges facing China due to the large & growing population. They said housing was very expensive & that most of the tall condo buildings going up were by private investors & empty--confirming what we heard from others. Because of housing expense, a man needed to have a house before anyone would marry him so usually, his parents bought him a house...after paying for his university...and then the parents took almost total care of the grandchildren. (No wonder most support the one child policy!) They were very interested in how children were cared for in USA. After they asked how long we'd been married, they asked a strange question..do you go for years without talking. When we said no...they looked very surprised & said, "Never???" That led to a discussion about divorce. They heard that in USA people get divorce quickly over small fights. They informed us that now 30% of Chinese marriages end in divorce mostly due to quarrel over who will do the house work...& had risen that high since the 1980's when the one child policy kids started marrying. About then, someone looked at their watch...it was 9:55 & lights were out at 10 so we all quickly jumped in our bunks--Rog & I both had middle bunk with one above & one below...and soon were rocked asleep...until 6 a.m. when got off the train and we stepped back in time in the ancient 2700 year old city of PingYao.
PingYao
This city is like a relic--almost fossilized. It seems these people changed nothing--barely maintaining most everything--and now are famous for that! The wall that surrounds it was originally built in 700 BC. & the catapult & many canons were still there. The whole city is like walking through a museum...and within the museum are a multitude of smaller museum: first armed escort service site (pre-police) & jail that had displayed torture items complete with vivid drawings of use, first draft bank (ancestor to all modern Chinese banks), most preserved City God Temple, only Taoist Temple open to public (with detailed & grotesque torture scenes depicting hell & filled with demons--no loving god there!!), Confucius temple where he taught & his students took exams & largest collection of his writings as most were destroyed by some Emperor's orders....while there one of his disciples came up to me & asked where I was from in very broken English & when I told him, he gestured an up thumb & said Obama & a down thumb saying Bush...guess that was another Confucius saying!
The View from Above
We walked much of the wall which gave us a bird's eye view of the city...we peered down on the many courtyards filled with laundry, dogs, children, drying corn, piles of bricks rescued from falling buildings, wood, etc. We read that the same families have lived in the same years for generations enjoying the same courtyard neighbors for generations. It was so interesting to see what was behind those many old wooden doors we'd seen as we walked the streets and get a small peek at their lives.
Biking
We rented bikes & went outside the walls...and I know by the looks on their faces, that many of the people who saw us were thinking...yikes, some tourist escaped the wall!
Wedding Parade
As we biked along, we heard loud music & firecrackers so we followed it to the source which took us under bright red blow up arches...to a band playing in the back of a truck with a flower decorated car behind it...the bride & groom! The truck led the newly weds up & down the streets playing jolly music & lighting firecrackers! Maybe it'll catch on in USA!!
We tried again to get to Emperor Jing Di burial site and succeeded this time. We had spent a whole day trying to get there so we were very happy to finally make it. Very few visitors had found their way so no crowds at all. Also the neatest thing about it was how they excavated the burial pits and built a museum over the top. Clear plastic flooring allows you to look down into the pit as you walk above. There were hundreds and hundreds of miniature soldiers, pigs, chickens, horses, cows, chariots, and more. The detail is amazing...even tiny quivers full of tiny arrows of the soldiers backs. Even more amazing is the fact that each of these little soldiers was dressed in beautiful silk clothing and held all the necessary equipment of the day.
Jing Di became emperor in 157 B.C. and ruled for 17 years. He ruled using the Wu Wei philosophy: Do nothing & nothing will not be done. He must of done something cause during that time he unified much of China and his rule is considered to be the pinnacle of Han Dynasty. Today over 90% of Chinese are descended from the Han people. Only a small part of the burial site is excavated...apparently an entire miniature city is buried here to serve the emperor in his next life! A special presentation at the museum included a high quality hologram that made all of the characters come alive for us as miniature chickens pecked at the ground, miniature women danced in fancy costumes and flames soared from tiny fires.
Historical Museum
We wandered among 5000+ year old artifacts and examined the 200,000 yr old skull in the Xi'an Historical Museum. Since it was the custom to bury most everything you owned to use in your next life, there is an amazing amount of items that have been excavated in Xi'an as the city dates back about 6000 years. Piles of gold coins, elaborate hair pins & buttons, decorative pots & dishes...even a cooking grill that looked just like our old hibachi!! I sincerely doubt anyone will ever look at anything we have in 5000+ years???
Train to PingYao
Moving on...we hopped a sleeper train headed for PingYao. Actually hopped is not the right word as we were herded through several gates and waiting room so it was more like pushed onto a sleeper train among thousands of others...all Chinese one of which grabbed my suitcase & carried it down two flights of steps right to the car we got on. After several people led us to our bunks...we discovered three of our bunk mates spoke English! They sat on the edge of their beds eagerly asking and answering questions. The first question was "Do you know Michaels?"--she was thrilled we had as she sold her glass candle holders to them. She asked if it was like Walmart? They told us they were proud of China's progress but felt the 60% of the population that lived in the rural area were still really poor and without much medical care. (Premier Wen Jiabao recently report wages were up 22%, Health coverage was 95% & 60 million less are paying income taxes--though he did note that was mainly in the urban area.) They also felt that there were still many challenges facing China due to the large & growing population. They said housing was very expensive & that most of the tall condo buildings going up were by private investors & empty--confirming what we heard from others. Because of housing expense, a man needed to have a house before anyone would marry him so usually, his parents bought him a house...after paying for his university...and then the parents took almost total care of the grandchildren. (No wonder most support the one child policy!) They were very interested in how children were cared for in USA. After they asked how long we'd been married, they asked a strange question..do you go for years without talking. When we said no...they looked very surprised & said, "Never???" That led to a discussion about divorce. They heard that in USA people get divorce quickly over small fights. They informed us that now 30% of Chinese marriages end in divorce mostly due to quarrel over who will do the house work...& had risen that high since the 1980's when the one child policy kids started marrying. About then, someone looked at their watch...it was 9:55 & lights were out at 10 so we all quickly jumped in our bunks--Rog & I both had middle bunk with one above & one below...and soon were rocked asleep...until 6 a.m. when got off the train and we stepped back in time in the ancient 2700 year old city of PingYao.
PingYao
This city is like a relic--almost fossilized. It seems these people changed nothing--barely maintaining most everything--and now are famous for that! The wall that surrounds it was originally built in 700 BC. & the catapult & many canons were still there. The whole city is like walking through a museum...and within the museum are a multitude of smaller museum: first armed escort service site (pre-police) & jail that had displayed torture items complete with vivid drawings of use, first draft bank (ancestor to all modern Chinese banks), most preserved City God Temple, only Taoist Temple open to public (with detailed & grotesque torture scenes depicting hell & filled with demons--no loving god there!!), Confucius temple where he taught & his students took exams & largest collection of his writings as most were destroyed by some Emperor's orders....while there one of his disciples came up to me & asked where I was from in very broken English & when I told him, he gestured an up thumb & said Obama & a down thumb saying Bush...guess that was another Confucius saying!
The View from Above
We walked much of the wall which gave us a bird's eye view of the city...we peered down on the many courtyards filled with laundry, dogs, children, drying corn, piles of bricks rescued from falling buildings, wood, etc. We read that the same families have lived in the same years for generations enjoying the same courtyard neighbors for generations. It was so interesting to see what was behind those many old wooden doors we'd seen as we walked the streets and get a small peek at their lives.
Biking
We rented bikes & went outside the walls...and I know by the looks on their faces, that many of the people who saw us were thinking...yikes, some tourist escaped the wall!
Wedding Parade
As we biked along, we heard loud music & firecrackers so we followed it to the source which took us under bright red blow up arches...to a band playing in the back of a truck with a flower decorated car behind it...the bride & groom! The truck led the newly weds up & down the streets playing jolly music & lighting firecrackers! Maybe it'll catch on in USA!!
Thursday, March 8, 2012
17
Hi from Xi'an,
It's been a few days since we were able to find a computer we could use...actually to find anything we were looking for!! Without anyone showing us around, we find ourselves walking in circles lots & laughing at where we end up sometimes...but we keep reminding each other to Enjoy The Journey... & we have been helped by so many kind young Chinese who tell us it's their privilege to help us! Here's a bit about that...
Saying goodbye to The Three Amigos
Last night in Kunming, Li & Yuan took us to dinner where we could eat pizza. It was fun to see them eat with a fork! They both again said they hope to come to America and work our farm for free. Probably could make lots of $$ selling all the vege's they could grow on our farm!! Then the next morning, Meizi with her arms linked around us, walked as far as she could in the airport & then threw kisses as we went through security. We felt so coddled by them all & so lucky to have spent time with them.
Finding Help
Since hardly anything is in English, we often find ourselves totally without a clue where to go but seems like that has been a benefit as we have been helped by so many young Chinese. Like Jenny, who happened to sit next to us on the plane to Xi'an who was headed to the same area our hotel was at & rode with us on the bus from the airport to town & then insisted on walking us right to our hotel door. She said that she had texted her boyfriend that she envied our relationship & hoped she would have the same with him. Then she called him & had both of us talk to him. And then the subway attendant who helped us get the right ticket, took both us of by the arm & waited with us until we got on the subway...and another subway attendant that helped us on the right subway & called ahead to the one we got off so there was another attendant waiting to direct us to the bus station we were looking for. He ended up waiting with us for an hour...then said probably the bus wasn't running due to the cold weather so he walked us back to the subway. And another....heard us asking someone else about finding an internet cafe and told us he'd take us to one....he had gone to school in Boston so we chatted as we walked about 4 blocks (out of his way) & then he led us into one we could never have found, talked to the clerk & even started up the computers for us. Now that's what you call "Going out of your way to help someone!!"
Xi'an
Huge walled ancient city where the Silk Road began. We visited the Bell & Drum towers & watched them demonstrate how the towers were used to let people know time of day. Spent a bit of time walking the wall around the city & wandered through the Great Mosque....and riding in one of their little taxi cabs which are motorcycles with a cart behind. But the most fascinating....
Terra Cotta
Fascinating...awesome....amazing...can't really describe seeing the Terra Cotta warriors. I actually got goosebumps as I stood in awe of the numbers, the size, the detail, the wonder of how something so astounding could have been built so very long ago...about 2200 yrs ago...buried and then not discovered until a farmer (whom we met) was digging in 1979.
It's been a few days since we were able to find a computer we could use...actually to find anything we were looking for!! Without anyone showing us around, we find ourselves walking in circles lots & laughing at where we end up sometimes...but we keep reminding each other to Enjoy The Journey... & we have been helped by so many kind young Chinese who tell us it's their privilege to help us! Here's a bit about that...
Saying goodbye to The Three Amigos
Last night in Kunming, Li & Yuan took us to dinner where we could eat pizza. It was fun to see them eat with a fork! They both again said they hope to come to America and work our farm for free. Probably could make lots of $$ selling all the vege's they could grow on our farm!! Then the next morning, Meizi with her arms linked around us, walked as far as she could in the airport & then threw kisses as we went through security. We felt so coddled by them all & so lucky to have spent time with them.
Finding Help
Since hardly anything is in English, we often find ourselves totally without a clue where to go but seems like that has been a benefit as we have been helped by so many young Chinese. Like Jenny, who happened to sit next to us on the plane to Xi'an who was headed to the same area our hotel was at & rode with us on the bus from the airport to town & then insisted on walking us right to our hotel door. She said that she had texted her boyfriend that she envied our relationship & hoped she would have the same with him. Then she called him & had both of us talk to him. And then the subway attendant who helped us get the right ticket, took both us of by the arm & waited with us until we got on the subway...and another subway attendant that helped us on the right subway & called ahead to the one we got off so there was another attendant waiting to direct us to the bus station we were looking for. He ended up waiting with us for an hour...then said probably the bus wasn't running due to the cold weather so he walked us back to the subway. And another....heard us asking someone else about finding an internet cafe and told us he'd take us to one....he had gone to school in Boston so we chatted as we walked about 4 blocks (out of his way) & then he led us into one we could never have found, talked to the clerk & even started up the computers for us. Now that's what you call "Going out of your way to help someone!!"
Xi'an
Huge walled ancient city where the Silk Road began. We visited the Bell & Drum towers & watched them demonstrate how the towers were used to let people know time of day. Spent a bit of time walking the wall around the city & wandered through the Great Mosque....and riding in one of their little taxi cabs which are motorcycles with a cart behind. But the most fascinating....
Terra Cotta
Fascinating...awesome....amazing...can't really describe seeing the Terra Cotta warriors. I actually got goosebumps as I stood in awe of the numbers, the size, the detail, the wonder of how something so astounding could have been built so very long ago...about 2200 yrs ago...buried and then not discovered until a farmer (whom we met) was digging in 1979.
So much is yet to be discovered as they have discovered 50 sites to excavate in a 500 sq kilometer area. Over 700,000 slaves labored for 36 years...and all the artisans who designed it were buried alive so no secrets could be told...all because Emperor Qin Shi Huang could take everything he had in life to his next life. He spent his entire life planning his tomb. Just to give you a bit of what I mean by detail...each warrior is uniquely made to accurately represent each solider in the army...you could see braids in their hair, bumps in soles of shoes, belts, chains, mustache, even eyelashes. When first discovered, they were colored but as soon as oxygen hit them, they color faded. So maybe Emperor Quin Shi Huang started the Qin dynasty, united China, developed their written language, had roads & aqueducts built and a few more things....did he really need such an elaborate tomb????????
Locust Story
Met Maynessa from Australia & she traveled with us to the Terra Cotta's. She confirmed a story with our guide that she'd heard--gives you an idea of how many people in China there are and how well they do as told--it seems the locust were eating up the crops so each Chinese was told they must kill 10 a day...in no time...no locust!
Favorite Treat
By far, the luscious coconut & pineapple rolls that melt in your mouth! Regular bread has been very hard to find...but I have been pretty lucky to find Coke Zero for about 50 cents... though a cold one is near impossible to find! It's also been a treat to eat at McDonald's a few times...prices similar to USA--which considering their wages...pretty expensive for them!
No Central Heat or Soft Beds
Found out why there was no central heat in Yunnan province: Chrm Mao said there could be none south of the Yangzi River. Did he also say no soft beds???? and by each bed there should be a variety of condoms???
Price of Gas
Near as we can figure, it's about $6 a gallon--no wonder taxi's & bus tickets are high!
Solar
So many rooftops we see have solar panels and solar water tanks on top. Go Green China!
Traveling North toward Xi'an
Small towns seem to be better off though still built in a compact area & sometimes walled, less terrace farming more big fields (even saw one tractor), but there are signs of building even in the small towns.
Cranes
Everywhere still. Can't believe how many huge condo like buildings going up. We were told some were by the gov't for low income housing but most are by private investors. Also told no one is living in them cause they are too expensive...and indeed we don't see signs of people in them. But that doesn't seem to stop the building...
Rarity / Grandparents
We are still a rarity & get stared at often. Not only are we caucasians...we have gray hair which we rarely see here. We were told most people with gray hair don't travel & are home babysitting their grandchildren. 90% of grandkids are cared for by their grandparents...who usually only have one grandchild....so Ben, Bek & Jake--sorry we can't keep up with the Chinese!
Mistakes by Children
Heard a interesting remark from a young Chinese: American children seem to make mistakes which are forgiven by their parents. Not so in China. Chinese parents don't forgive their mistakes so easy.
China Newspaper
Last couple days, we have been able to read China News in English!! So interesting to get USA news from a Chinese perspective. It points out that USA must realize the world is now flat & trade is therefore able to go both ways. Also an article about how prejudice many Americans are toward the Chinese...how we often blame them for taking jobs....make jokes about their sing-song language...etc. Seem to support Obama. And loud & clear is their desire for a peaceful world.
Modern vs Old
Seems to be nothing in between. The modern clean cities with so many new uniquely designed buildings & well built roads vs the old villages. The old & very young working in the villages & the middle generation working in the big cities...over 240 million migrant mostly male workers from the villages trying to make money there while their families stay home in the village.
Sunday, March 4, 2012
#16
Hi from Dali,
We have been having a nice & restful time in Dali. If you want to read more about Dali, here it is:
Dali
This is an ancient city that in 1000AD was one of the 14th biggest cities in the world because it was on the Silk Route. Dali was a kingdom in itself and home to the Bai tribe. There are 3 large pagodas that are 1,100 yrs old & have stood through over 30 earthquakes. The Bai still live here in large numbers and we biked through the residential part of town to see their homes which blocks plastered over & painted white. Often great artwork is painted on the outside walls & the doorways are very decorative. Usually their was a courtyard is full of flowing plants. And wherever there is soil, there is a ridged garden meticulously kept. The whole city is surrounded by majestic mountains frosted with snow and they cradle a large lake. Inside the walls of Old Dali, the mountain streams have been made into creative courses filled with rocks, waterfalls and curved bridges. The pink cherry blossoms are in full bloom & some type of a weeping tree is spring green now. In other words, it's gorgeous. Old Dali use to be a hang out for backpackers & mountain climbers but unfortunately, it's become quite touristy with lots of souvenir shops & food vendors. But I am loving the fact that it has lots of western type food here as well as Bai & Chinese choices. After a month of eating Chinese, it's a welcome change! Speaking of food...here's Roger's take on it:
Food
I (Roger) am eating almost everything that they bring and just one day of a queasy stomach so far. I have trouble with the chopsticks and often someone at the table tries to show me how to hold them....I am not a very quick learner but I get enough to eat so that could be why I'm not very motivated to change my ways. Meat is chopped with the bone and all joint material still attached then stir-fried or boiled, then often served in a sauce or with many sauces available to dip the meat in. We had some very good pork ribs Yesterday that were well done and were in a barbecue sauce..Yum!
Always white rice is available with the meal but sometimes not at the beginning. Soup (usually a clear broth with spinach) is served near the end of the meal. Its surprising how good it is when other options are not so inviting. When eating at the village one of the men offered me the chicken head right out of the pot but he seemed happy to eat it himself when I declined his offer. We sometimes start with a salad (some kind of root cut up in small pieces and soaked in vinegar)...then dishes of stir fried chicken with vegetables (broccoli or other chinese vegetables), pork with all the fat possible included, beef, Chinese cabbage, lotus roots, peas, beans many served up with hot peppers and slippery green onions, tofu (sometimes stuffed with ?) coagulated pig blood (cut up in squares and cooked in the soup). Savory mushrooms, sprouts, rice noodles and dessert of Lion ? (rice cake covered with brown sugar and baked).
Breakfast is usually a large bowl of hot steaming rice noodles served in a tasty clear broth with pieces of meat and sausage also thrown in and bits of dried pig fat floating on top. Then you are able to add chopped green onion, chives, powdered hot pepper and other spices to your own taste.
When we go into the restaurant there is always a cooler with fresh meat (sometimes with heads attached) and vegetables inside that you can inspect and select for the meal. Sometimes the vegetables & live fish/snail/frogs/squid/shrimp/and unknown items are all displayed in bins on the steps in front of the restaurant. No frozen prepared meals here. Also no menu. Very different from Michigan!
Dali University
We had the privilege to spend a Sunday afternoon with four of Dali University students. The three girls who met us at the bus station plus a friend, Chung who is an English major. First we took them to lunch at their favorite restaurant, Superman Vegetarian. They ordered lots and ate it all up telling us that the dorm food was horrid. (For six of us, it cost about $20 plus $1 more for ice cream cones later.) Then we took a bus to theri University and they gave us a grand tour. As we strolled, we had an enlightening time discussing both USA & China politics, economy, culture, families, wars gays & homeless. We both soaked up info from each other. They asked us many questions about USA: Does everyone carry a gun & are they scared like they saw on TV? Do we eat alone always? How does USA feel about gays? about China? about VietNam war? Do we really have freedom and what are we free to do? Do we like Obama? We too asked questions being careful not to be too invasive. They all felt China was improving and getting stronger and were proud of that. However, they didn't feel the economic growth was helping the poor. Li's waitress job paid her about $7 for 8 hours--and no one tips here. They did feel like even though college cost was about $700 per year for tuition & dorm, most all Chinese could go if they wanted to as there were many scholarships available. Unfortunately, most (we read almost 90%) will not get good jobs even with degree. All dreamed of traveling--just to other provinces seemed out of reach to them. They thought we were brave, energetic and very lucky. We agreed. As we parted, they thanked us for our honesty and wrote down our email address. If we stay in touch, it will be so fascinating to follow their lives.
Coming to America
One of the guys, (LaddyLi) at HANDA has been telling us often that he hopes to come to American & will stay with us & work our farm. He says we won't need to pay him...just feed him. I wonder if he is kidding or for real???
Signing off for now....
We have been having a nice & restful time in Dali. If you want to read more about Dali, here it is:
Dali
This is an ancient city that in 1000AD was one of the 14th biggest cities in the world because it was on the Silk Route. Dali was a kingdom in itself and home to the Bai tribe. There are 3 large pagodas that are 1,100 yrs old & have stood through over 30 earthquakes. The Bai still live here in large numbers and we biked through the residential part of town to see their homes which blocks plastered over & painted white. Often great artwork is painted on the outside walls & the doorways are very decorative. Usually their was a courtyard is full of flowing plants. And wherever there is soil, there is a ridged garden meticulously kept. The whole city is surrounded by majestic mountains frosted with snow and they cradle a large lake. Inside the walls of Old Dali, the mountain streams have been made into creative courses filled with rocks, waterfalls and curved bridges. The pink cherry blossoms are in full bloom & some type of a weeping tree is spring green now. In other words, it's gorgeous. Old Dali use to be a hang out for backpackers & mountain climbers but unfortunately, it's become quite touristy with lots of souvenir shops & food vendors. But I am loving the fact that it has lots of western type food here as well as Bai & Chinese choices. After a month of eating Chinese, it's a welcome change! Speaking of food...here's Roger's take on it:
Food
I (Roger) am eating almost everything that they bring and just one day of a queasy stomach so far. I have trouble with the chopsticks and often someone at the table tries to show me how to hold them....I am not a very quick learner but I get enough to eat so that could be why I'm not very motivated to change my ways. Meat is chopped with the bone and all joint material still attached then stir-fried or boiled, then often served in a sauce or with many sauces available to dip the meat in. We had some very good pork ribs Yesterday that were well done and were in a barbecue sauce..Yum!
Always white rice is available with the meal but sometimes not at the beginning. Soup (usually a clear broth with spinach) is served near the end of the meal. Its surprising how good it is when other options are not so inviting. When eating at the village one of the men offered me the chicken head right out of the pot but he seemed happy to eat it himself when I declined his offer. We sometimes start with a salad (some kind of root cut up in small pieces and soaked in vinegar)...then dishes of stir fried chicken with vegetables (broccoli or other chinese vegetables), pork with all the fat possible included, beef, Chinese cabbage, lotus roots, peas, beans many served up with hot peppers and slippery green onions, tofu (sometimes stuffed with ?) coagulated pig blood (cut up in squares and cooked in the soup). Savory mushrooms, sprouts, rice noodles and dessert of Lion ? (rice cake covered with brown sugar and baked).
Breakfast is usually a large bowl of hot steaming rice noodles served in a tasty clear broth with pieces of meat and sausage also thrown in and bits of dried pig fat floating on top. Then you are able to add chopped green onion, chives, powdered hot pepper and other spices to your own taste.
When we go into the restaurant there is always a cooler with fresh meat (sometimes with heads attached) and vegetables inside that you can inspect and select for the meal. Sometimes the vegetables & live fish/snail/frogs/squid/shrimp/and unknown items are all displayed in bins on the steps in front of the restaurant. No frozen prepared meals here. Also no menu. Very different from Michigan!
Dali University
We had the privilege to spend a Sunday afternoon with four of Dali University students. The three girls who met us at the bus station plus a friend, Chung who is an English major. First we took them to lunch at their favorite restaurant, Superman Vegetarian. They ordered lots and ate it all up telling us that the dorm food was horrid. (For six of us, it cost about $20 plus $1 more for ice cream cones later.) Then we took a bus to theri University and they gave us a grand tour. As we strolled, we had an enlightening time discussing both USA & China politics, economy, culture, families, wars gays & homeless. We both soaked up info from each other. They asked us many questions about USA: Does everyone carry a gun & are they scared like they saw on TV? Do we eat alone always? How does USA feel about gays? about China? about VietNam war? Do we really have freedom and what are we free to do? Do we like Obama? We too asked questions being careful not to be too invasive. They all felt China was improving and getting stronger and were proud of that. However, they didn't feel the economic growth was helping the poor. Li's waitress job paid her about $7 for 8 hours--and no one tips here. They did feel like even though college cost was about $700 per year for tuition & dorm, most all Chinese could go if they wanted to as there were many scholarships available. Unfortunately, most (we read almost 90%) will not get good jobs even with degree. All dreamed of traveling--just to other provinces seemed out of reach to them. They thought we were brave, energetic and very lucky. We agreed. As we parted, they thanked us for our honesty and wrote down our email address. If we stay in touch, it will be so fascinating to follow their lives.
Coming to America
One of the guys, (LaddyLi) at HANDA has been telling us often that he hopes to come to American & will stay with us & work our farm. He says we won't need to pay him...just feed him. I wonder if he is kidding or for real???
Signing off for now....
Saturday, March 3, 2012
#15
Wei (Hi),
Well we are out on our own and doing just fine! Left Kunming a couple days ago and here's what's up:
Eating Western Style
We had an American eating day: McDonald's for lunch (cost about the same as the states) & pizza for dinner. Mmmmmmm.
New Zealand Girl
While we were doing our wash at the HANDA building, a young girl from NZ came to interview Li about HANDA. It was great to talk to her. She had attended an international high school set up by Mandela full of kids from all over the world. Now she was studying Chinese in Kunming and also doing a study of AIDS in Yunnan province--which she said was a huge problem. Ironically, she had been to the very same area in Thailand we were in & also been to India. We had lots to talk about.
Toilet Trained
Watch a little girl (maybe a little younger than 2) today who proved she was toilet trained. Her mom was carrying her on her back (very common here) but let her down on the street corner where she squatted & since the kids where pants that have a long slit in the bottom, she could pee without pulling down her pants. She then just ran around...even though her mom didn't watch her...as cars whizzed by. How did she know to stay out of the street when a car was coming is beyond me.
Road Signs
Our bus ride to Dali brought us the laughs reading the following road signs:
No Nruken Driving
Don't Drive Tiredly
Hotel Signs
While I'm on the subject, here's some hotel signs that brought us smiles:
Above the bathtub: Be Careful of Landslide
On desk: Keep Cash & Valuables in Head Stage
Oxymoran
Here'e an oxymoran: seeing a man leading his ox & cart while talking on his cell phone.
Correction
Renay was not born in China...her father was.
Dali Connection
We had a comfortable bus ride to Dali & Li had lined up a friend to meet us...and she & two others ran to shake our hands withing ten minutes after we arrived. They ( Ping, Li & Esther) were delightful & enjoyed practicing their English on us. They walked us right to our hotel laughing and talking the whole way. They told us they'd call us so we could meet them later. We gave each of them one of the Chinese New Year stamps we'd brought from USA & they loved them. We just keep getting lots of TLC!
Rog is waiting in our room for me soo better get back before he starts to worry....keep in touch!!
Well we are out on our own and doing just fine! Left Kunming a couple days ago and here's what's up:
Eating Western Style
We had an American eating day: McDonald's for lunch (cost about the same as the states) & pizza for dinner. Mmmmmmm.
New Zealand Girl
While we were doing our wash at the HANDA building, a young girl from NZ came to interview Li about HANDA. It was great to talk to her. She had attended an international high school set up by Mandela full of kids from all over the world. Now she was studying Chinese in Kunming and also doing a study of AIDS in Yunnan province--which she said was a huge problem. Ironically, she had been to the very same area in Thailand we were in & also been to India. We had lots to talk about.
Toilet Trained
Watch a little girl (maybe a little younger than 2) today who proved she was toilet trained. Her mom was carrying her on her back (very common here) but let her down on the street corner where she squatted & since the kids where pants that have a long slit in the bottom, she could pee without pulling down her pants. She then just ran around...even though her mom didn't watch her...as cars whizzed by. How did she know to stay out of the street when a car was coming is beyond me.
Road Signs
Our bus ride to Dali brought us the laughs reading the following road signs:
No Nruken Driving
Don't Drive Tiredly
Hotel Signs
While I'm on the subject, here's some hotel signs that brought us smiles:
Above the bathtub: Be Careful of Landslide
On desk: Keep Cash & Valuables in Head Stage
Oxymoran
Here'e an oxymoran: seeing a man leading his ox & cart while talking on his cell phone.
Correction
Renay was not born in China...her father was.
Dali Connection
We had a comfortable bus ride to Dali & Li had lined up a friend to meet us...and she & two others ran to shake our hands withing ten minutes after we arrived. They ( Ping, Li & Esther) were delightful & enjoyed practicing their English on us. They walked us right to our hotel laughing and talking the whole way. They told us they'd call us so we could meet them later. We gave each of them one of the Chinese New Year stamps we'd brought from USA & they loved them. We just keep getting lots of TLC!
Rog is waiting in our room for me soo better get back before he starts to worry....keep in touch!!
Thursday, March 1, 2012
#14
Rog's comments:
Bamei Village of Guangnan County has become a must go scenic spots while traveling Wenshan. Before entering the village, villagers should first pass through the watercourse in a karst cave. For most of Chinese people, this is exactly the Xanadu, a bucolic land outside the world.
We visited this village with Renay and Jenny while Yuan spent he day visiting ancestral graves with his family in his home village. A pony cart ride on cobblestone trails led us to a beautiful park beside a village. Many green flatbottom boats lined the shore of a small pond near the village. As we carefully crawled into the boat we could feel chily air coming from a huge opening in the mountain. Our boatman used a long pole to push us toward that dark hole as we realized that we didn't have a flashlight! Fortunately he had a headlamp, which he used sparingly, so the journey through the cave was not totally black the entire way. Huge formations and stalactities hung from above as we quietly floated along. It was very relaxing and expecially beautiful when light from outside found its way in through openings above to light parts of our journey. We exited and found ourselves in a quaint village surrounded by huge mountains and the guide told us that the only other way in was a trail and it would take at least an hour to climb over the mountain which we had just passed through. He took us to his home where we were led to a balcony eating area where we could enjoy the local sights while we waited for food to be prepared. Change seemed to be the theme in this village as old buildings were being replaced by new structures as tourism is driving this beautiful place to be a "destination". We enjoyed our lunch and commented on the luxury of eating M and M's , peanuts, and choclate in such a remote spot. Then we noticed huge piles of sand and stone that appeared to have been dumped by a truck. We laughed about how our guide had given us a line about how we were in a remote place and we had so willingly accepted his word! We continued along the trail until we reached an area where we were again loaded onto a pony cart. This time Renay and Jenny rode in the back seat which was just behind the wheels of the two wheeled cart and as the pony took off the back the the cart bounced which made them a bit uneasy as it seemed that the cart might tip over backward. But it was securely fastened to the pony and soon we were trotting and then galloping down the hill with Jenny and Renay laughing harder and harder each time the cart lurched and they were thrown up and down. The ride ended too soon and the girls caught their breath as we again approached more flat bottom boats for a journey through another cave. It was a slow day for the boatmen so most of them were playing cards around a small table beside the river and we stopped to watch them forcefully throw down their cards as they played. Then on to another cave, this time the boatman had no light and he told us he didn't know anything about the cave either. Again blackness, then some light filtering from above and the cool rush of wind passing through the cave. Ahead there was a greenish glow, then some purple. The cave was lighted with many different colored lights to show off the interesting and ancient formations. What a relief to be able to see again and how beautiful! Monstrous stalactites again hung down from above and seemed to point directly down on us as we passed beneath. It was awesome. Natural light ahead meant our journey was coming to an end but it was a welcome sight too as the cave seemed so removed from the lush and living world outside. After carefully crawling out of the tippy boat we commented on how that ride would not be advisable for anyone traveling with children. Then we noticed a sign in chinese that looked like a warning sign. Jenny told us that it said to be sure to wear your life jacket at all times while in the boat. But there were no life jackets! She said that she had asked the boatman about life jackets at the start of the trip and he said, "The water is not deep." Then after we were in the boat she asked how deep is the water and he said, "Six meters." !!! Definitely not Disneyland.
How to Change the Way People Think
I am learning that it is not possible to come into a place and make a change that is lasting unless the people really want that change to happen. Larry (in Texas) first told me that getting the agreement of the villagers was of utmost importance.
Our efforts and the efforts of many before us are all well intentioned but will fail over time unless the villagers take ownership of the plan and actually make changes themselves with guidance and encouragement (money and/or materials). This is hard to do because giving them stuff and doing "for" them is not good for them because it encourages dependence and takes away their will to provide a better life for themselves. But guiding them to change takes so long that it feels like everything is in slow motion.
Previously someone tried to help the villagers by providing them with pampers. Their latrine was plugged with pampers and a new problem had to be solved. What appears to be a simple fix can really be complex. The stinky pampers floating in putrid water in the latrine were carefully removed to a nearby pit by the diligent villagers who were intent on cleaning up the stinky and dangerous mess. Unfortunately the pit was not large enough to hold all of the contents of the latrine and it overflowed causing a mess which attracted the chickens. They ran through the mess carrying contamination on their feet throughout the village. After the mess we all wondered if someone in the village might get sick or die.
After this we talked with the villagers about maintaining the latrine so that they would never again have to deal with such a stinky and dangerous mess. At first it seemed that they agreed to compost the solids and mix them with animal waste to be used as fertilizer on their fields. But old superstitions about handling/contacting human waste resurfaced and they said that they would not put the waste on thier fields. They agreed to bury the waste at the bottom of the hill in a nearby field that one of the villagers offered for that purpose. The actual burying may not happen for some time as the pit is now empty. So who knows if that actually will happen? Did we really accomplish a lasting change?
Another part of maintaining the latrine is regular cleaning and washing the floor. Most of the village wanted to provide money to pay one of their own to do the work but two households refused to support the plan. I see that our main accomplishment may be the introduction of these ideas but the acceptance of them may be far in the future.
The easy thing to do is to throw money at a problem because it makes us feel good to share some of what we have with those that have so little. We can quickly go away feeling good about what we have done about making the world a better place. But as is so often the case the easy thing is also the wrong thing-pampers didn't fix anything in the village they made it worse. What the people need is hope for future which can be achieved only through their own efforts. Assisting them to find markets for their products and helping them to develop marketable skills might encourage their climb from poverty.
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