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Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Quechua


Quechua
Today's descendants of the Inca (which once numbered about 12 million) are called Quechua. Their presence is very strong here. As we travel about, many are in traditional clothing and speaking their own language. Domingo (taxi driver) told us his grandparents live a 10 hrs walk up the mountains...after the road stops. They only speak Quechua (he speaks 3). And to think I feel bad about some of my grandkids being a 5 hr car trip away! We were able to enjoy soak up lots of the cultural music & dancing at the Cultural Center. Each day we dig a bit deeper and gain more appreciation for Peru!

Weather
We are just south of the equator but since we're high in elevation, it's a bit chilly in the am & pm and about 70 in the afternoon. This is actually considered their summer but weather is about the same all year. It's also rainy season so we've had several heavy rain storms...even one with hail--luckily we took cover in a nice restaurant where they gave us complimentary Pisco Sour (traditional drink) and we only got a little wet, Seems most roofs leak!

Pisac Ruins
We had one more ruin to check out--Pisac. We lucked out again with a great guide who proudly told us that Pisac ruins are older and higher in elevation than Machu Picchu. This Inca settlement was mostly for farmers so was surrounded by many terraces where root crops were grown. Our guide played a flute with a llama mouthpiece and picked several plants as we walked to the site...one was for dying clothes, another that helped with stomach problems, altitude sickness & prostrate (which he happened to sell) and another that when you rubbed it under water...it turned to soap. Really! Those Incas had lots figured out. Since they had such a healthy diet (quinoa, maiz, black potato and lean meats) most lived to be 100. The guinea pig which is very high in protein & low in fat, was raised right under the floor of the homes. When they wanted one, they'd just put some greens in front of the hole...out would come supper!! When they did die, they were mummified and put in a hole in the side of the mountain facing their settlement. They did not mourn the loss as they felt that their family was always near. The terraces facing the graves were filled with flowers. Our guide pointed out the many holes in the side of mountain (that had been ramsacked by the Spanish), he faced the burial and reverently played a song that filled me with such peace as it traveled over the valley between us and the burial site. It was raining & the wind was blowing...but nothing could diminish the beauty of that song. (Elsi bought the flute...how could she resist??)

Pisac Market
Perhaps the real reason we made the 45 min trip to Pisac was their famed market. Our taxi driver was friendly and we all learned a bit more...he, English and us, Spanish. He dropped us at the entance of the market and told us he'd meet us in about one hour at the end. So off we went...down what seemed like miles of tables laden with temptation. Though most were a repeat of the ones before...several had a few new items. The Boyce's found a few great finds but since it was one of the Sly's last opportunity to get gifts, they were wheeling and dealing and carrying lots of bags when our driver came looking for us almost two hours later. Not sure how long we'd stayed if he hadn't herded us out. We all rode back to Cusco with smiles.

Correction
Need to clarify my comment about the coca tea--it is made of the same leaf cocaine is made from but many steps & ingredients need to be added before it is actually cocaine...