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Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Final Thoughts

I had really wondered if staying 2 months in a city of 20 million was going to be too long and feel too crowded. Nope. It actually felt like home...as long as I didn't let myself dwell on missing my family. It helped a lot that we could talk to them often via Messenger. Especially when the grandkids were calling and messaging us!
Being with the refugees & the Refuge Egypt staff, I constantly felt needed, useful and appreciated. Each morning I had the privilege to walk into the courtyard and mingle with the refugees sitting there waiting. Just to offer them a smile & the kids a balloon felt so good.
The variety of "jobs" we did kept us busy and gave us the opportunity to be involved with many different RE staff members and see how much RE does for the refugees. It also made us realize just how many difficult obstacles the refugees face. My heart aches for them. To be able to help was our honor. To have our home church send donations through us was humbling. To know those donations will allow food bags to be distributed for 2 more months is so rewarding.
We had to remind each other to leave RE every so often and see the sights! We actually never ran out of remarkable things to see and do.
Our accommodations in Cairo were great, a wide variety of ethnic food was readily available, transportation was easy and prices were relatively cheap...less than 50% US cost.
Being able to soak up Athens & the Holy Land were tremendous bonuses!! How inspiring & sacred to be where Jesus was!!
Of course, I would have liked warmer weather & a beach close by. There were a few Airbnb's I'll drop from my memory. And there were a few scares: Cairo train station fire just a half hour after we'd left there, two Gaza bombs hitting Tel Aviv two days before we got there and we couldn't tour the Dome of the Rock due to heavy protesting.
Traveling to us is adventurous, enlightening, enriching, rewarding and we love doing it together! But we're always really ready & happy to go home!!

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Update 71 by Roger

A few days before leaving Cairo we were the featured speakers at a special meeting. After driving around back alleys in the dark for what seemed like an hour, our driver once again stopped the car. Calling out to a random person beside the road, "Where is the meeting?" , he asked.
We had already stopped and asked this question about ten times and we were starting to wonder if this meeting was ever going to happen.
Francine had asked us to speak to the parents of the school where we had visited classrooms in this mostly Sudanese area of Cairo. Student behavior was to be our topic.
We finally arrived and were quickly led up several flights of a dark stairway to meet the parents. They (mostly men) were seated and patiently waiting when we entered but immediately smiled and reached out to shake our hands to welcome us. Their hopes were high.
The strains of being a refugee here are multiplied when you have a wife and children whose lives have also been uprooted and then placed here where everything is different and difficult. These parents hoped that we would be able to help them fix their broken families.
First the teenage choir joined us and sang two songs...their harmonizing was beautiful and their voices were strong. We could almost imagine them singing in their home village.
Now it was time for the parents and kids to listen to us. We told them that students are usually better behaved if do better in school. To do better in school they should get enough sleep, eat meals with their families, feel loved by their parents and parents should have high expectations for them. We also suggested that the parents work together as a support group to encourage each other in raising their children.
Every dad there had a question or two for us and each began by first thanking us for coming and offering our time and thoughts to help them. This was very humbling as they had been up very early and worked twelve hours, then they came to this meeting and waited for another hour or more to hear from us.
The questions they asked made us aware of the difficulties they face....

"I work twelve hours each day and get home at 8 PM. How can I make sure that my child is not getting high on drugs or having sex when I am not at home?"

"How can I control my child when they misbehave? My parents beat me when I was bad but it is not OK for me to beat my child here in Egypt."

"When I tell my son that he cannot use his phone to view porn or play violent video games he tells me that he will just leave home and do what he wants to do."

"My son wants what his friends have but I can't afford it."

"Should I let my daughter spend the night at her friend's house?"

It seemed that every parent there was struggling to find answers.
We learned from them that the community support network that once held their families together does not exist here. Children are out of control. Even many wives have given up as each refugee tries to make their way in this land that is foreign to them. Racism was not directly mentioned but we know it exists here and many are abused or mistreated because of the color of their skin...another huge obstacle.
How many trials must they endure?
They spoke glowingly of the beauty of their homes in Sudan, but sadly say it is too dangerous for them to return.
We left feeling that we were the ones who learned from the them.
Our hope is that they will continue to meet and support each other to set guidelines and standards of behavior that will serve their families well and keep them safe as they continue their search for a new life.



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Sunday, March 17, 2019

Israeli landscape








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Fields and flocks






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Update 70

Here's the rest of the story of our trip to Israel ...kinda the nuts & bolts part. First night in Tel Aviv we had sketchy accommodations, then trying to get around proved to be tricky & expensive. Luckily our room in the Old City with old stone walls...though very minimal...we loved the authenticity and it made it easy to get around. David's tomb and the upper room (site of the Last Supper) was in the building right next to us. It was an easy walk to many holy sites. We hopped local buses to get to the ones a bit farther away.
In Egypt we were in the midst of Muslims easily identified by their clothing. Here the Jewish men proudly wear their skull caps, tallits, tall black hats, short pants & white shirts...many with beards and long side curls. Women wear long black skirts & scarfs. Again telling the world they are Jews. The Wailing Wall, massive Dome of the Rock mosque and 5' golden menorah are their most holy sites. Later we'd experience how the entire public busing system & most stores shut down Friday at sundown & stay closed until Saturday at sundown. After two days in Jerusalem and Bethlehem we headed to Tiberias...about 2 1/2 hour bus ride. The roads were excellent. The landscape was lush green with lots of rocks on the rolling hills. Even saw a few flocks of sheep. The spring flowers were in full bloom!! And everywhere !! They were sneaking out of cracks & crevices and filled hillsides in their vibrant colors. I took way too many pictures of them. Huge fields of corn, grapes, veges, palm trees, banana trees and miles of netted covered crops. Saw several tractors but unlike Egypt, no one stooped over & working in the field.
The bus stopped many times to pick up & drop off...and often young soldiers with their guns slung over their shoulder got on. Here all youth...boys & girls...must serve. Not sure how long. Both here and in Egypt there are guards at most every corner.
Again our Airbnb was sketchy ...made us think that probably that's how most middle class live
After dropping our bags, we took a bus into town to see the sites there. Tiberias was once the main city in this area and so there were several old structures there to remind one of it's past importance.
We didn't find a guided tour that would match our plans so we did it our way. The next morning, we took the bus to Tabgha and we just started walking a trail along the Sea of Galilee for about a mile to Capernaum where Jesus called the fishermen to follow him and where he walked on the water (along the trail we saw several markers labeled, The Gospel Trail, how'd we find that??). We took a taxi to a nearby hill where he spoke to the five thousand delivering the Beatitudes in the Sermon on the Mount.
We met an adventurous Indian couple from Toronto who were not with a tour. They were happy to share the taxi with us down the hill to Tiberias. There were many tour buses filled with tourists at each site but we agreed that the tour group experience did not appeal to us.
Since we'd visited the church "built on a rock" where Jesus told Peter to build his church we thought it was fitting to finish the day with a "Peter's fish" dinner in Tiberias. And as our luck continued, there was a small church built in 1040 AD next to the restaurant. The door was open so we went in...glorious paintings of the storm & walking on water bible stories adorned this simple , tiny church...later we came back to celebrate Mass there. Could not have planned a better place to be that night.
Next morning, our luck ran out as it was pouring rain and since it was Shabat, we couldn't get a public bus out of town. So we paid the big bucks and hired a taxi (driver was Muslim) to get to Tel Aviv. Again the road was excellent. The driver pointed out the Palestinian Wall as we followed along it for several miles. He drove us right to our Airbnb...and a bit better than last night...not what we expected...but then we are used to expecting the unexpected! It was still raining and we were hungry so we walked to what our host said was a "close" place to eat. It was at least a mile...in the rain...and it was a bakery. But... we did find a restaurant a couple blocks later. Had a huge and delicious authentic Israeli dinner.
Our host told us the area we're in use to be all Arab. After the war in '47, Jews were allowed in. It's really a run down area with lots of high rise housing.
When we got back, hung our coats to dry and a German couple who were staying there also joined us. They offered us beer & wine and we sat and chatted for over an hour. ..mostly about immigration. Germany is also at a loss as to how to address the issue. They told us there are more immigrants in Berlin than Germans!
They made a point of telling us that they believe as travelers, we were ambassadors of our home country. Good point.
We had to be up early to catch our flight and many connecting flights home so we went to bed early...excited to think we will be home in 36 hours!!

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Spring flowers






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Sea of Galilee








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Capernaum








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Saturday, March 16, 2019

Jerusalem






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Bethlehem






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Update 69

Here in Israel are so many names I've read or heard about in the Bible since I was a child...surreal:
Bethlehem, Jerusalem , Capernaum, Damascus, Zion, Jericho, Dead Sea, Sea of Galilee, Mount of Olives, Garden of Gethsemane, David, Solomon...
For 5 days those names were swirling around me.
Bethlehem - how many times have I imagined that scene. Today it's a sprawling city of 22,000 & on the "birth site" sits an elaborate church...far from the stable. Yet the holiness remained.
The Sea of Galilee - peacefully surrounded by rounded mountains. A replica of boats of the time period make it easy to envision Jesus sitting in one with his disciplines...walking on the water...and calming the storm.
Capernaum- where Jesus chose 5 of his discipline and lived during most of his ministry. Here Jesus told Peter "upon this rock I will build my church." A simple but very inspiring church surrounds the rock. A contemporary church with a glass floor sits above and in the middle of the excavated remains of Capernaum. Here He fed the multitude by multiplying 2 fish & 5 loaves of bread. Here He taught us the beatitudes...and the church built there is octagonal & 8 stain glass windows featuring them. Here so many were cured. the man lowered through the roof, the leper and the centurion who had such faith that whatever Jesus said would be fulfilled.
Our bus ride between Jerusalem & Capernaum gave me a true sense of just how far Jesus & his disciplines had to walk. We passed the Dead Sea (lowest spot in world) and followed the Jordan River (now the border of the West Bank & Jordan). The mountains that surround Jerusalem made the picture of Jesus entry on a donkey so real.
Many of the great gates of Jerusalem still proudly stand. Inside the old city wall we stood in the Upper Room, then lingered in the Garden of Gethsemane where flowers were blooming around a massive old gnarly tree trunk.
Then we walked the Via Dolorosa...the path Jesus was forced to walk carrying the cross. On that spot of the crucifixion , a stunning & lavish church sits.
We stood on a platform looking toward a hillside where there's a large cave...perhaps Skull Hill. It's empty of course.
When we planned our trip to Israel ...it had not occurred to us how appropriate the timing is...a couple weeks before Easter. A tiny miracle.
How I wish I could go back & see it as it was 2019 years ago...instead of today: sprawling with markets, hawkers, tourist & humongous churches.
I had to close my eyes and focus my thoughts to recall the Bible stories to bring them to life...that feeling was so very surreal and I feel so humbled and honored to have been this close to Jesus.


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Wednesday, March 13, 2019

Our class






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Our class






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Update 68

Saying good bye to our class was tough. They are a great group of "kids"... 17 - 40ish. About 20 of them showed each Tuesday & Saturday for 1 1/2 hours to improve their English. They were attentive, actively participated and worked hard at trying to understand our lessons. If they failed to understand, they asked questions & kept trying.
They loved it when Rog or I got silly or when we bounced innocent jabs back & forth between us.
We were so very pleased that most of them did very well on their midterm exam. And we told them so! Some, of course, wished they'd done better.
I'd read Leo the Late Bloomer to them after trying to explain that everyone learns at their own rate. When I got to the page where Leo blooms....one of the kids shouted out, "That's us!!" Teaching is so very rewarding!!!
We had the students each write a short story about themselves so we could keep a piece of each of them.
And then we meet in the court yard for cookies & juice and pictures.
The last class was the next week. We covered the necessary lesson and then Rog blew up a balloon and told them who ever caught the balloon could ask anyone any question.
They loved asking us questions. A few used their turn to thank us and one asked himself a question!
I won't write about each one...but a couple...so I won't forget...
Zebeb: early on I noticed she was leaning over close to her book to read...I asked if she could see the board..nope. I asked if I could try to get her glasses. She smiled. After talking to the RE director, she got an eye exam and had new glasses 2 weeks later!! That sure made both of us very happy!!
Akmed: Such a huge smile, struggled but kept trying. Told me, "I was ignorant...you made me...how you say? Intelligent? Yes! "
Hussein: I'll really miss you. When Rog said he'd miss him too, he said...not as much as I will miss you. You bring us hope. I will never forget you.
An unknown girl who wore a niqab (so only her eyes were visible) was in the class that met after our class ended. She said to Rog: "I'll miss you and remember you."
These are the treasures we store in our hearts...the reason we love volunteering.



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Update 68

Saying good bye to our class was tough. They are a great group of "kids"... 17 - 40ish. About 20 of them showed each Tuesday & Saturday for 1 1/2 hours to improve their English. They were attentive, actively participated and worked hard at trying to understand our lessons. If they failed to understand, they asked questions & kept trying.
They loved it when Rog or I got silly or when we bounced innocent jabs back & forth between us.
We were so very pleased that most of them did very well on their midterm exam. And we told them so! Some, of course, wished they'd done better.
I read Leo the Late Bloomer to them after trying to explain that everyone learns at their own rate. When I got to the page where Leo blooms....one of the kids shouted out, "That's us!!" Teaching is so very rewarding!!!
We had the students each write a short story about themselves so we could keep a piece of each of them.
And then we met in the court yard for cookies & juice and pictures.
Our last class was the next week. We covered the necessary lesson and then Rog blew up a balloon and told them who ever caught the balloon could ask anyone a question using English.
They loved asking us questions. A few used their turn to thank us and one even asked himself a question!
I won't write about each one...but I must put down a couple...so I won't forget...
Zebeb: early on I noticed she was leaning over very close to her book to read...I asked if she could see the board..nope. I asked if I could try to get her glasses. She smiled. After talking to the RE director, she got an eye exam and had new glasses 2 weeks later!! That sure made both of us very happy!!
Akmed: Such a huge smile, struggled but kept trying. Told me, "I was ignorant...you made me...how you say? Intelligent? Yes! "
Hussein said, "We will really miss you! " Rog told him we'll miss them, too. He replied, " Not as much as we will miss you. You bring us hope. I will never forget you."
An unknown girl who wore a niqab (so only her eyes were visible) was in the class that met after our class ended. She said to Rog: "I'll miss you and remember you." Why?
These are the treasures we store in our hearts...the reason we love volunteering.



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Monday, March 11, 2019

Update 67

They were two ten minute encounters yet both are burned into my memory.
The first...I'd headed to the RE center, as usual, and a lady walked up to me & rapidly started to tell me her story. I quickly realized I wasn't the one she needed to talk to but she didn't give me a chance to tell her. So I just listened to her desperate plea for help.
She was a Saudi but had lived in Australia for 16 years and had an Australian citizenship. She'd gone home to Saudi Arabia to get her mom who was dying of cancer and her sister who was diagnosed with Down syndrome. She'd been in Egypt for 3 weeks desperately seeking the papers she needed to take her mom & sister back to Australia with her. Her Visa was running out. She was adamant that money was no problem. She'd spend anything she needed. She gave me many more details but that was her basic story.
She felt like she had knocked on every door she could think of but she was not going to give up. She'd stay strong and find a way.
After a tender and long hug, I took her to see GG(asst director) who in a matter of minutes was helping her.
I'm really guessing here, but since I was the one asking GG to help her...and GG knew we'd just given RE a large donation...I think & hope that alone cracked open the door. I'll never know if that's true or not...or if the lady gets her mom & sister home. But I felt God had put me in the spot I needed to be for her.
A couple days later...I met Sally. Again, I was coming across the courtyard as usual. Rog was talking with Sally, a young gal who was dressed nicely and early for church. We chatted for a few minutes...she was from S. Sudan & had been in Egypt for less than a year so I asked her if she had been able to find a job. Tears filled her eyes. She fought them but they started to flow. She said she had been cleaning for a lady but the lady was always accusing her of things and telling her what a bad job she did. And had refused to pay her. She said it was so hard in Egypt. They hated the color of her skin. They were mean. She had tried so hard. She had been knocked down so many times and didn't know if she could get back up. She had no family here. She felt so alone. (Yes, I was crying by now too.).
I asked her if she had tried getting help from RE. She didn't know anything about them. I gave her a brief overview. It was Sunday so they were closed so I told her to come back tomorrow.
She looked so relieved to have a door open and as she hugged me...Rog put some $$ into her hand. She said...No No. Rog told her she deserved it. She had worked for it. She finally took it.
We had to leave and she went to church.
We got back about an hour later to meet up with Maddie, RE staff. As I stood talking to her, Sally came rushing over and gave me a huge hug saying she was so glad to see me again.
So fate again. I introduced her to Maddie who knew the questions to ask her to see if she'd qualify for RE help...which she did.
So again, God had me in the right spot at the right time.
Here in Egypt if things fall into place, they say "Hamdeellah" which means "Praise Be To God"...HAMDEELLAH!


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Sharm El Sheikh






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Update 66

We're only an hour plane trip from Cairo...still in Egypt...but in a totally different environment...kinda a paradise. Sharm El Sheikh is a resort on the Red Sea located on the tip of the Sinai peninsula. It's drop dead gorgeous! Warm, brilliantly sunny, sapphire water, coral pink sand, blooming flowers, tall lush palm trees all under a crystal clear blue sky. Vastly different than the rest of Egypt that we've seen. We seldom "do resorts" but I so wanted to shed my sweatshirt and feel the sun. The locals all told us this was the place to do it. We booked it Sunday night and left Tuesday after dismissing our class 10 minutes early. At 9:30 pm we were enjoying the Movenpick buffet.
After weeks of a busy schedule & traipsing all over Cairo, it felt luxurious and I was content to be confined to a beach chair with no agenda but to soak up the beauty...eat...read...walk the beach...eat...read...take a dip in the pool...and then watch the glorious sunset. Though many snorkeled in the cold clear sea, I preferred spotting the colorful fish from the dock.
Here it's mostly Russians and Europeans on vacation. Haven't seen many Egyptians or other Africans except the wait staff.
Though I feel pangs of guilt, it mostly makes me feel so very grateful!

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Sunday, March 10, 2019

Update 66

Walking around Cairo is like walking in a mine field. Every step a possible twisted ankle, stubbed toe or tripper ready to take you down! (Elsi can relate!). Unique and unusual obstacles to avoid. Mazes to maneuver. Often you just give up and walk on the street.
And always your peripheral vision must be in high alert as cars navigate the narrow side streets and speed up in any open area. Most dangerous are the motorcycles that whiz through the tiniest cracks in traffic or even on the sidewalks.
Walking around Cairo is no feat for the faint of heart!

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Duck, Duck, Goose






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Update 65

Mr. Lee invited us to visit him where he teaches refugee children at the St. Andrews Church. The school is run by a Scandinavian and employs mostly teachers who themselves are or were refugees. Mr. Lee is from S. Sudan.
As we enjoyed watching the kids play a game similar to Duck, Duck, Goose, he told us that the kids were from many African countries. Countries where they'd be fighting rather than playing. Here they were all friends, colorblind & accepting. There they'd grow up to be bitter enemies for no other reason than the tribe they were born into.
Then he spoke of his own country. He told us it was so very beautiful...yet so dangerous for his tribe. Though all in S.Sudan look very much like the Dinka, the ruling tribe. The only thing that identifies you is your accent.
He tried to return to his home once a long time ago. He'd heard gun shots in the night. When he opened his door in the morning...there were 7 bodies. His sister told him it was a light day...usually many more. No one dared come and claim the bodies. They'd be dragged away and never seen again.
On this same campus, many UNHCR lawyers help asylum seekers to get their papers. Most had come by camel or on the Nile illegally because their home countries wouldn't give them papers to leave. They fear arrest daily. Sometimes police wait outside the gate of St. Andrews ready to arrest.
Seeing the joy on the children's faces as they chanted and chased each other, I had to think of their future...would they be passed over (like the Duck), chased (like the Goose) and get caught or make it back to their safe spot.

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Foods here!!






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Update 64

Old Mother Hubbard went to her cupboard...and it was bare!! That's what happened last week at Refuge Egypt. No food to bag. No food to pass out. We'd made a plea to our home church and in God's good timing...generous donations have filled the cupboard again!! Enough for 2 months...and now we can add powdered milk too. Amazing how joyful that makes me feel!
So with happy & humble hearts, we am filling food bags again!! We've become quite efficient at it! We filled @200 rice/lentil bags in just an hour and a half!!
We asked what will happen when this food runs out and the answer we got: "God will provide. He always does."


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Thursday, March 7, 2019

Update 63

Egypt Tidbits:
-if the vendor doesn't have the right change...no problem...they just hand you a cookie or piece of gum
-commonly see a makeshift table set up under a bridge and brewing tea over a fire
-men sitting on chairs with barely a breath of life left...often right on the street
-cars parked with their bumpers touching
-car with flat tires & 2" of dust parked in valuable parking spot
-the most common greeting we hear: Welcome to Egypt
-the most common response we hear after hearing that we're Americans: America is #1
-funniest response to how current situation in Egypt: We Egyptians are exhausted...taking a break...we've been the center of civilization for such a long time...someone else's turn!
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Update 62

We've been so lucky to be close to a cinema that shows Hollywood movies in English ...for $4 and popcorn is less that $2...and you can Corey in your 30 cents can of Coke Lite!!  
In this state of the art on a big screen, we saw Upside and The Green Book.  we loved both and ironically, the theme of both was similar...only in reverse.  Both about prejudice between white/black but reversing the role of which is wealthy/which is the comedian.  We weren't surprised that The Green Book won so many Oscars!
Since Bohemian Rhapsody also won an Oscar, we went to that too.  And glad we did!  A main theme in it was homosexuality...the same theme as the United Methodist General Conference which just concluded in St. Louis.  
Here we hear from refugees about how Egyptians consider themselves better and don't want to hire them.  Even in their home countries, people fight just based on their tribe.
Man's prejudices have and continue to cause such pain.  Mark Twain has a been quoted saying...
"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime."
As a traveler...I sure hope that's true.

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Monday, March 4, 2019

Zamalek Marriott



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Islamic Cairo & Turkish bath






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Manual Palace






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Update 61

Cairo is so jammed packed with remarkable relics of the past that after 6 weeks, we still haven't seen them all!
Here's a few we've visited on our free days:

Manual Palace Museum
Home of the Crown Prince Mohamed Ali Tewfik, dazzling, exquisite, lavish are a few words that come to mind. He designed it himself & spared no expense. He filled it with inherited splendid furniture, family portraits & Turkish tapestry. The complex included a throne room, a clock tower, a mosque, a golden hall and a residence hall.
Islamic Cairo

One of the oldest areas in Cairo and has over 20 buildings built between 1200-1400 AD. Mansions, mosques, palace, churches & a Turkish bath. It boast the most outstanding example of Medieval architecture. The tile work is intricate and gorgeous. The elaborately decorated ceilings are 30-40' high with stunning chandeliers hanging from them. The detail! The workmanship! Phenomenal!

Khan Al Khalili
Massive market selling most everything from junk made in China to unique antiques. Though neither of us are shoppers—understatement-we did stroll through the streets & alleys.

Zamalek Marriott
The once magnificent palace of Empress Eugenie...built to celebrate the opening of the Suez Canal...was in near ruins when the Marriott purchased it. The have brought it back to it's earlier splendor and built the hotel around the central wing of the palace. We were united to eat lunch there by 3 couples we'd met at church. We were definitely hop-bobbing with the privileged that day!

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Update 60

Since Egypt is 90% Muslim, we've spent much time in their midst and I must say, I admire their commitment to their religion. Their clothing alone is an obviously outward sign that identifies them. In taxis almost every time of day, their speakers blare out the Koran in a methodical sing-song...especially loud in the back seat where I sit. On their dash boards, well worn Korans sit.
Five times a day, you hear the call to prayer blasting from the top of the nearest minaret...sometimes an echo from one a bit farther.
So many men have a brown spot ..some even a bump...in the center of their foreheads. Called a zebibah. They are caused by the friction between their forehead & their prayer mats. The prayer mats are everywhere...in stores, by snack shops, in subway halls...ready for the call to prayer to their one God, Allah.
I've seen many men walking along on the street, riding the subway, sitting on benches...with their prayer beads slowly passing through their fingers.
I see the Muslims being kind and generous to others...especially the street people. I too try to be kind and generous.
I haven't met one that I wouldn't want to spend more time with. As a Christian, I wear a necklace with a fish on it. That's it for an outward sign. I pray...but can't say "religiously" five times a day.
Perhaps I should. Pray for more acceptance of others worldwide.
.

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Saturday, March 2, 2019

Pompey pillar &Roman amphitheater








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Update 59

Day 2 in Alexandria, we headed out in search of the Catacombs...the largest burial site in Egypt. A 35m long shaft in the center was used as a dumb waiter to lower corpse. The most stunning burial area complete with pillars, statues & art work was for Romine Emperor Caracalla...hated by the locals as he'd killed over 20,000 that opposed him...many burned there in the catacombs with him. The seemingly endless dark tunnels had cavities in all the walls. Creepy!!
Next to Pompey's Pillar-25m-guarded by two sphinx and built on the ridge. It's surrounded by partially excavated the ancient acropolis & Serapeum. It's really got nothing to do with Pompey...misnamed by Crusaders who thought Pompey's ashes were encased on the top.
We were glad to get out of the cold wind and marvel at the Bibliotheca Alexandria (new library opened in 2002). A throughly modern building with seating for over 2000. Skylights with some blue & green stain glass made for a enchanting place to learn. So fitting for this city.
In the basement, the Antiquity Museum was filled with more treasures including the mosaic floor of the ancient library.
The Sadat Museum was in another wing and was a tribute to all he did in his life. The uniform he was wearing when he was assassinated in 1981 made me think of JFK. He'd been asked after his peace treaty with Israel's president & Carter what he'd like on his tombstone: That I lived for peace and died for my principles.
Another wing was a tutorial about how & what you could access...a massive amount of information on their website: www.bibalex.org
We spent over 5 hours absorbing just a fraction of what Bibliotheca has to offer!!!
I'd hoped for a nice seafood dinner but getting anyone to understand English here is near impossible & it was too cold to walk far...so we popped into the first warm restaurant ...KFC. Got back to our room, Rog hit the sack while I visited with a girl from England & then caught up on writing.
Next morning, we were able to get to the National Museum to see the items revived from under the sea thought to be from Cleopatra 's palace. And our final stop was at the Roman amphitheater discovered only recently when a donkey disappeared into a pit. Makes you wonder what else is where we were walking.
We caught the 2 pm train back enjoying once again the view from the train window.



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St Mark








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Qaitbay Fort








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Update 58

Alexandria, of course, was built by Alexander the Great in about 350 BC and was the home to the first major library. Alexander was tutored by Aristotle who encouraged the love of reading. Cleopatra had a summer palace here...which unforgettable was built on land now under the sea.
After we'd dropped our backpacks at our room, we headed to the Qaitbay Fort built in 1480's on top of the site where Pharos (light house) stood...one of the 7 wonders of the Ancient world. It only lasted 17 centuries !
Next we headed to the Coptic Cathedral of St. Mark. It's named after the apostle Mark who spent much time in Alexandria and it was here he was martyred...dragged through the streets behind 3 wild stallions. Kinda felt guilty taking a horse & buggy ride back to our hotel. We enjoyed our Mediterranean view until dark and then had to cover up & try to stay warm. It's cold here!!! Well, cold for Egypt.


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Update 57 by Roger

Hyena
I talked with  a young man from Sudan after class.  He told me that he wanted to improve his English speaking ability so I suggested that he tell me about his life.  If he made errors in speaking, I planned to point them out to him.
He told me that he was from a family of five sisters and two brothers and his father worked at a stockyard.  
After further description I found out that his father actually works with several brothers raising cattle in Sudan.  When the cattle are fully grown they sell some of them (about 10 per cent) at the market in Khartoum. They don't sell more because they like to  keep increasing the size of the herd.
He told me that they allow the cattle to graze where they can find water and grass. There is plenty of land and they apparently are not limited by land ownership or fences. The herders ride horses or camels and they also have a pickup truck. 
He said they have to protect the cattle from an animal that is a serious threat. He described the animal as having tall front shoulders so I asked if it was a hyena.  He had never heard that word before so we quickly googled Hyena and he agreed that was it.
As we talked he was very interested in the names that I used and I he carefully wrote them down in his notebook. Cow=mother
Bull=father
Calf=baby
I tried hard to imagine watching the cattle all night while anticipating an attack by a hungry hyena. His father must be a very brave man!
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Nile Delta farming








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Update 56

We were on the train to Alexandria for $5 each by 9am. Looking out a train window is one of my favorite things to do! I love getting a quick peek of the everyday life of people. We skirted the Nile as we sped by the consistently rich fields of wheat, rice, grasses, fruit trees & vegetables. Even the 10' between the tracks & road was cultivated. Rog read somewhere that some crops grow 27 times faster here. Sure saw lots of butts of the field workers...male and female. Some just sit right on the ground. Tallied 5 tractors but donkeys far out numbered them! Did see one new tractor dealer. Wonder how it will stay in business.
About halfway, we started to see groups of 3 or 4 cows tied sporadically in lanes usually under a lone tree. The manure behind them was proof they'd been there quite some time. We'd see maybe 4 or 5 groups of cows down a lane. Saw a few flocks of sheep penned up.
Pigeon houses...large cone shaped with large holes...are common. Easy quick meals!
Small villages seemed to have turned into large cities with those same tall mundane brick apartment buildings topped with re-rods sticking out the top. The fewer the buildings, the more color we saw. . But still hardly any one family homes. Egypt has a population of almost 100 million so I guess they gotta live somewhere!
Everywhere mosque which were the most beautiful building around by far. Sometimes you could see 3 or 4 unique minarets at a time.
But also we saw where the trash goes...on the side of the tracks. We'd read and heard that Egyptians haven't figured out how to deal with their trash...we saw lots of evidence of that!!
We often rode along side wide ditches/tributaries. Some even had small ferries so they could be crossed. We could see they were being used for drainage and irrigation...saw two ladies washing clothes...and unfortunately trash bins. Many of them have been dredge but the ugly mess of trash & muck was left on the banks.
I especially relish seeing sights like kids playing with sticks & stones, soccer games, carts loaded with veges, old men sitting on benches, carpenters building furniture, crowded markets, school kids with their arms around each other, women hanging their laundry on their balconies...just a peek into the ordinary life of the Egyptians!

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