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Friday, March 8, 2013


Roger's Summary
Ecuador…Beautiful, Green, Friendly. Andes, Amazon, Coast, Galapagos and High Mountain Valleys.

As we have found in many other countries, most of the people we met were friendly and helpful. Often they would ask us, “ How do you like Ecuador? “ Their pride shows when we would say it is nice. Many Americans are relocating here to take advantage of the warm temperatures, low costs of food, fuel, and services, and beautiful surroundings. Some assumed we came to find a spot where we might stay but that is not in our plan. We enjoyed our visit but hope to be able to continue our adventures in a new place next year. Ecuador with its Holstein cows grazing on hillsides and families dressed in bright clothing and working together in fields too steep for tractors is now a part of our memories.

An unexpected but pleasant surprise was the camaraderie that developed among the visitors that traveled with us on the boat in the Galapagos Islands. They came from Texas, Germany, Switzerland, Netherlands, Ireland, Australia, Canada, and Scotland. All spoke English and we connected as we ate, hiked, jumped into dinghys together, spotted sharks and sea lions from the top deck, and sat in the dark equatorial night looking at the stars and naming constellations. I found it very reassuring that people with such different backgrounds can be thrown together and their differences become an asset to the group as we learn about each other. We had discussions on the end of The Wall in Germany and the current state of reunification there. The Swiss told us about living in Switzerland and still having to drive to get to the mountains (I thought Switzerland was all in the mountains). The group was exceptionally open and accepting of differences…Was it because we were all travelers and had some characteristics in common or was it because we spent 8 days together enjoying the wonders of Galapagos? That we all suffer from FOMO (Fear of Missing Out)? I would like to think that many groups such as ours meet each week in the Galapagos and also in many other places around the world and they make connections that will forever change them for the better. They may see the individuals that make up a country as interesting, intelligent, caring people rather than grouping the people of any particular country into a harmful stereotype.



Jane's Summary

I don't feel like I have any words left to sum up this trip...surely I have written enough! The trip was a combination of so many wonderful trips: Machu Picchu, Bible Lessons/Home Stay, Beaches, Jungle, Highlands and Galapagos--the cherry on top! Each was crammed full. Each frosted with special people. My page of email addresses of new found friends is full. And...how lucky am I that I could share all of it with my great travel partner, Rog....and that I get to go home to my 8 darling grandkids!!! My life overflows with blessings!!

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

We're home! Home, sweet, home!!! So this is the last update... at least until next year! We still need to write our summaries. Thanks to all of you for all your newsy emails and words of encouragement. Though we write the updates as our journal to savor when we get home, it is nice to get your comments and feedbacks! Hope to see many of you soon!!

Day 4 - Isabella Island
We began exploring the largest island--50% of Galapagos land mass--Isabella Island. We went on land and traveled by bus to see the world's 2nd largest crater part of which erupted last in 2005. Johan pointed out the large number of non-native guava trees and blackberry bushes which now cover almost 40% of the island--as he said--a big problem. Next we visited the Turtle Breeding Center...so necessary as only 2% of tortoises survive as there are now so many eggs are destroyed. It is a success story as the population has gone from 3000 to 15, 000. The center has received millions of donated money thanks to the recently deceased famed Lonesome George ..last of his species. Since "Galapagos" was named after the saddleback tortoise--their survival is important to the park. ElNino has also been very hard on all the animals. 75% of the flamingos died in the last one. We had a bit of beach time and also walked about the tiny village. The open church doors pulled me in and to my delight there was a detailed wall sized painting of the Galapagos which included so many animals we'd seen...right behind the altar made of drift wood...and above it all was a glorious risen Lord! The stain glass windows were also the Galapagos animals: tortoise, blue-footed boobie, penguin etc. As I knelt for a prayer, I realized that being in the Galapagos has actually reaffirmed my love and admiration of our world's masterful Creator! To actually hear and see evolution happening ...Just one example is the Darwin finch. Originally was one species...now 13...and two more are in the early stages...each changing as they are forced to migrate due to lack of food...and slowly adapting to eating the new food available to them! What a marvelous and miraculous plan!!! What an Awesome God!!! We jumped back in the dinghy and headed back to our boat...passing lots of playful sea lions...some jumping on and off a marooned boat...the budget cruise. After we got out of the dinghy, one sea lion crawled in for a free ride. The ok was given to dive off the top of our boat and so several younger ones, our guide & the captain enjoyed that thrill as Rog & I enjoyed the show from the deck as we did the rest of the evening loving another spectacular sunset.

The Galapagos Gang
As always, it is often the people that make or break the trip...and our gang certainly made it!! Here for our records:
Brian & Ann Marie-45- from Calgary Together for 3 yrs. Each with a 20 yr old daughter. He an electrician & formally dive & rescue team member...that was comforting to know...she an dialysis nurse.
Jordan & Jemma-23- from Australia. Both recent grads.
Anya-35- from Ireland. Army colonel
Connie-40- from Switzerland
Britta-40- from Germany. Recently lost engineer job. Did 15 dad cruise.
Britta-24 from Germany. Student
Tom-35 from England. Just quit his job as airline steward and now living with
Monica-35 from Switzerland. Just quit her job as project manager
Ron-65 from Texas. Businessman whose s/o is a workaholic and not traveler
Doug-60 from Scotland. The only "snag" in the bunch
Linda-60 from Canada. The loud, attention seeker who hooked up with Doug.
Joleen-25 from Holland. Whose heart was recently broken when her boyfriend of 5 yrs broke up with her

Most were traveling from 6 to 12 months. We spent many hours visiting and learning about each other and our countries. One example was while discussing the feeling between what use to be West/East Germany, Britta said "You know why the Chinese are always smiling? They still have their wall!" And Joleen told us Holland had recently slapped a sales tax on products with sugar or fat. She'd love to come to USA just to see our "super sized plates and drinks"--what does that say about what others think of us! Jordon said we all suffer from FOMO--Fear Of Mission Out. I agree. While talking under the millions of bright stars, Jemma summed it up saying, "When I spend time with others on trips, I don't even think about their age...we are all just fellow travelers!" See why we loved this gang!

Day 5 - Elizabeth Bay and Urbina Bay (Isabella Island)
Started the day with a dinghy ride into small inlets so we could find sea turtles gliding by, penguins twirling around and flightless cormorants in search of breakfast. One found an octopus which we watched wiggle all the way down his long throat. On land we trekked through a mangrove where we came upon 20 humongous, dome tortoises and 9 land iguana ..two staging a fight and two others courting. We spotted a few short eared owls who hunt in the day here, fly catchers and a friendly yellow warbler who sat on someone's boot. It is simply unreal how the animals don't even blink an eye or move away an inch when we get close. The water was too rough to snorkel so we got back to our boat in plenty of time for the evening party. The crew joined us for drinks and dancing. Jonah showed us how to do the salsa and the blue footed boobie dance. The Ecuadorians sure know how to move when they dance!

Day 6 Tagus Bay (Isabella Island) and Fernadina Island
The blue footed boobies provided my early morning excitement as by the dozens, they took air from about 200' and dove straight as an arrow into the water...it was like watching rapid firing war bombing! Boom, boom, boom! Later we'd get closer and see their robin egg colored feet almost glowing as they perched on the black rocks. We spent several hours today below the water surface, swimming with sea turtles, rays, score of fish over the fresh green urchins. Sea lions again came out to play with us--it is so hard not to laugh out loud and thus swallow seawater!! We even saw sea turtles mating. Their young only have a 1% survival rate. On land, we watched the alpha male sea lions fight over the females and territory. So what is different in the human world??? Many of the females patiently laid still as their pups nursed...sad to think that only 30% of their pups will survive. It was nearly impossible to keep the 2M distance required from the playful older pups who waddled up to you...so curious. Our land hike was literally walking through 100's of marine iguana all facing the sun or enroute to the sea for a swim. On our climb to see Darwin's Lake...a crater lake...we admired the mighty Galapagos hawk...top of the food chain. Jonah told us a story about the Judas goat. Years ago farmers brought goats to the island, a few escaped & soon their wild population grew causing lots of problems. So the rangers put a tracking device on one...they named him Judas...let it go and followed it by helicopter. Since goats are social animals, Judas would lead them to others and bang...all shot but Judas...who would soon lead them to another bunch & bang, etc, etc, etc. It took ten years to eliminate the goats. We all felt bad for poor Judas and hoped he'd at least got shipped to the mainland and freed so he could join a group that didn't get shot! Just before 6, we spotted a 4-5' spout of water--a whale! Rog saw the hump of it's back and we saw a couple more spouts but our imagination had to do the rest. Around 7, wearing my wind breaker, I stood on the bow as we crossed the equator at 0 degree latitude at sea level. Who'd thought you'd want a wind breaker!! And by the way, there is no red line on the ocean marking the spot!!

Day 7 - Buconeer Cove and Espormilla Beach (Santiago Island) and Rabida Island
At 6:30 a.m. we plunged into the chilly water though within minutes, the sight of string rays the size of our kitchen table and white tip sharks about 5-6' made me forget about the chill quickly. Massive #'s of small fish gave you the impression of a brick wall though driving in the middle of them created a hole just bi enough to fit through. A dark lavender octopus floated over the mustard colored, deep red and lilac colored starfish. All this while tiny glowing red and blue plankton were everywhere. Gorgeous! Later we'd snorkel again...in a different area...with another unique view of the fascinating sea. Just jumping in and out of our dinghy between the crashing waves was a blast. On our land hike on Rabida Island we felt like the temp soared to 120 degrees. We watched baby pelicans spread their wings as tiny streams of sand flowed down from the tall cliffs...erosion in action. Baby sea lions played in the waves. Made us think of our grandkids playing as they crawled over each other and seemed to kiss! We took a long dinghy ride to get a closer look at those bombing blue footed boobies and find storm petrels bird hiding along the tall cliffs. Also cheered for a struggling Galapagos hawk chick trying to escape from the crashing waves. He made it!!! Just before dinner, Jonah rand the bell & yelled "Dolphins!" We all crawled up on the bow and watched the dolphins perform high jumps and flips...dinner had to wait. We had our final evening briefing. Johan had listed all the major animals we'd seen--over 60 species ...not counting the endless fish... and most indigenous to Galapagos!! And we'd only visited about half of the places allowed to visit. We took turns talking about our week. Spectacular! Amazing! Best Week Ever! Unbelievable! Fantastic! etc. Praise for Johan over flowed to which he responded by telling us we had been a great group, eager to do what he loved best...snorkel and find animals! With teary eyes, he said, "I am living my dream! My Dad (also a guide) would be proud of me." No one wanted the day to end so we just hung over the side of the boat watching...and as usual....the ocean came alive. Five huge sharks were circling our boat and sea lions started racing and catching flying fish. Jonah pulled out a spotlight and it was just like Hollywood. In spit of knowing what was under our boat...we slept well.

Day 8 Mosquero Beach
Sunrise found us walking quietly along Mosquero Beach and saying good bye to the Galapagos. We walked on the black & white speckled beach thinking back on the black, brown, red and white beaches we'd visited. We stopped to gaze out at the sea...so many shades of blue and so full of life. Sea lions were everywhere waddling close to us as if they too were saying goodbye. We'd taken over 1000 pictures and hope together with the updates, we can relive this most incredible trip again and again. It truly deserves the name the locals call it...the Enchanted Islands.

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Galápagos Islands!



Galapagos
Imagine waking up each day and finding yourself on a different planet...seeing Genesis 1 happening before your very eyes...God creating the sea, the land and animals. That's the only way I can even begin to describe the Galapagos. Landscapes...each island boasting its uniqueness both on land and in the sea...only here....only here.

Day 1- Santa Cruz Island
We flew from Guayaquil to Santa Cruz island...about 600 miles off shore and our guide, Johan met us at the airport and quickly we were on our ship, The Guantanamera, home for the next week. The ship with a crew of 8 and 15 passengers sailed to a nearby sparking white beach where we saw the first of hundreds of scarlet red crabs, black lizards, flamingoes and frigate birds with their flaming red throat blown up like balloons. We put on our fins & mask to see what was in the gorgeous turquoise sea...fish in all sizes and colors instantly appeared! A bountiful buffet...which was set 3 days a day every day...was ready when we got back on board. Johan recapped the day and gave us the plan for the next day...as he would each evening. We went to bed in our cozy little cabin, rocked to sleep by the waves and completely in awe.

Day 2 -Genovesa Island
Day began at 6:30 with our first view of Genovesa Island, breakfast at 7 and snorkeling by 8...again at 11...and again at 3...all in different bays and each like a peep hole into a uniquely secret world. We swam with small damsel fish who seem to have a tiny LED light attached to their fins, parrot fish chomping on coral, brightly colored puffer fish, clown fish, and countless others I can't name but enjoyed company with. But it was the 4' hammerhead sharks that circled below me and the rays that waved as it flew past me...that made my heart stop. Between snorkeling, we hiked the beaches where a mom sea lion slept with her 2 day old cub...later we passed frigate birds munching on the placenta. Nazca and red footed boobies (bird) watched as we snapped photos of their fluffy white chicks. Coal black marine iguanas rested on the lava rocks...almost invisible...blue & yellow crown heron fished in small pools where sea lions played and the Galapagos doves called to the passing swallow tailed gulls. Sound surreal??? It was.

Day 3 - Bartolome Island & Santiago Island
When I looked out our cabin window, I was amazed again...during the night we'd sailed to Bartolome Island...truly another world! The blues of the water & sky contrasted with the deepest black lava shoreline with a massive pinnacle shooting up! The water around us was crystal clear so we could easily spot the black tip sharks circling our boat. By 8, we were snorkeling in a large crater surrounded by a rainbow of fish and below me were glowing red & blue starfish...like looking at the night sky in living color...reef sharks peeked out from the caves and spotted rays floated by. It was the playful penguins...only about 1 ft tall...spinning around and hopping up on the rocks and the sea lions about 5 ft mimicking the moves of Jordan (another passenger) right in front of me that made me laugh (and that is hard to do with a snorkel in your mouth!) What a joyful time! After lunch we climbed to the top of a volcanic mountain for an extraordinary view of the area ...surrounded by 66 craters...all which had exploded years ago at the same time. Unimaginable! Here we took a mass of photos including one with the Foggy Bottom Coffee Ship flag and a group shot of all our traveling buddies. Before we left the island, we saw the first of many Darwin land lizards and the blue footed boobies perched on a small island of lava rocks. Later we cruised to Santiago Island ...a mass of lave that from a distance looked flat but once ashore we could see the diverse designs left by the 1910 eruptions that created them... marvelously minute and massive swirls...chunks, some smooth as glass and others ragged as broken glass...ridges that looked just like long lengths of ropes...frozen bubbles. Overall, it was like the mountain took a huge dump. And then it dried & cracked, heaving up section and leaving craters and holes. The heat from the hot sun was absorbed in the lava so we felt like we were in a 350 degree oven! And yet, we saw a few tiny green plants bravely taking root...beginning the huge job of creating sand so that someday...in the far distant future...this island would flourish! No way could I remember let alone write all the info that Johan shares with us. He seems to know not only the names, numbers & dates, but habits, causes and problems of the plants and animals we encounter. He knows the history and has hope for the future. He is not just a guide. He is not just a native of Galapagos. He is a part of Galapagos. You could hear it in his voice as he pointed out the different islands from the top of the volcano...saying each island's name...then saying...my islands...the enchanted islands.

Galapagos History Lesson
Learning bits and pieces about the Galapagos history each day has truly enriched our experience. Darwin visited the island for 5 weeks in 1835 and then fisherman & pirates came ashore for a bit. In 1929, the first inhabitants...from Germany...settled here and the very first native was born in 1931...in a cave. He only recently died. In the early 40's, the German Angermeyer brothers came here to escape Nazi Germany. Their story is in My Father's Island, the book Rog & I are reading aloud....also friends of a woman we met earlier in Canoa. A few islands served as a USA military base in WWII and the famous pinnacle is the results of the bombs dropped during military practice here. Galapagos became a National Park in 1959 but strict rules were not enforced until 1997. In 1998, the Ecuadorian army had to come and stop the Isabellion islanders from attacking the National Park headquarters. Many islands are now closed to visitors...only a few scientists are allowed to visit...to allow them to evolve naturally. All tours must be led by a licensed, Galapagos born guide and the tours & cruise routes are set up and strictly enforced by the National Park. Scientist & volunteers are working furiously to eradicate non-native plants and animals. Let nature take its course was the theme loudly and adamantly proclaimed. But ironically, the scientist have discovered similar islands below the ocean surface just 200 mi. from the mainland and they know that the Galapagos islands are moving 5 to 7 cm a year so will probably one day also sink into the vast ocean only to be replace by new volcanic action over the hot spot where the current Galapagos islands sit. Amazing!!!
Imagine waking up each day and finding yourself on a different planet...seeing Genesis 1 happening before your very eyes...God creating the sea, the land and animals. That's the only way I can even begin to describe the Galapagos.