Happy New Year's from Bangkok!! After about 36 hours of traveling, we arrived just a few minutes before midnight (Bangkok time) and pounded on Elsi & Bob's door shouting "Happy New Year!!!" Our first flight out of Detroit was cancelled but we managed to get another flight quickly and therefore, we made all the rest of our connections. Had a short time in Seoul and got to play a New Year's game & listen to a live band. We just had ham, bacon, hotdog, toast and salad with thousand island for breakfast at this B & B and now we'll catch a tuk-tuk so we can check out Bangkok. All is well and looking forward to this New Year adventure.
Roger and Jane

We're back home

Back on US soil again...it feels good and immediately we expect that everything will work since we were back in familiar territory. Better think again! Travel home started on Friday morning with us getting up in Kolkata and having a quick breakfast with Chii, Katerina (from Slovakia and soon leaving for Darjeeling), Father Donald and others at BMS. Taxi to the airport then a two hour flight to Delhi...Himalayas in the distant north looked like low clouds on the horizon. Villages below appeared to be very close together with only a few fields separating one from the next. How else can 1,000,000,000 people fit in this country? Arriving in Delhi we were met by our driver who took us around to see a few more sights before arriving back at the travel office where we met up with the owner,Baljeet Singh, a Sikh. He had invited to his house for dinner. Baljeet introduced us to his daughter, Simron (14 and happy to practice her English with Jane). She brought cokes and tea then started bringing plates and dishes of food for us. Rice, dal, chick peas in spicy sauce, and sliced cucumber and tomato as well as raita (curd spiced with more onion and cucumber). For dessert there was a honey sweetened treat made from ground chick peas. Baljeet's wife stayed in the kitchen and appeared to be too shy to do more than smile and say "Hello" or was it just unacceptable for her to visit with the men and guests during the meal?. Baljeet's brother-in laws (Manj from New York and Tony from Delhi) were also visiting and we talked about conflict in the world and agreed that since war has been a constant in the hisory of the world and even though we hope for a better future there is little reason to believe it will change. Meanwhile, Jane and Simron went to another room to play with Simron's little cousin. She wants to be a fashion designer and when Jane asked if she thought that women in India will someday adopt western clothing as the men have, she said, "They don't wear sarees in America?"
Soon we were back on a plane chasing the night from Delhi to New York. Our flight left at 1 AM and arrived in NY at about 5 AM the same night/morning (early Saturday). We flew through the darkness for about 16 hours as we dozed, watched movies, read, ate three meals, and tracked our progress across Afghanistan, the Aral Sea, western Russia or Ukraine, Finland, Sweden, Norway, North of Iceland, across Greenland, Labrador, and finally the USA. It was a very long night...
Arriving in New York we were excited to be home and enjoy the comraderie of our fellow Americans and enjoy the luxuries that we now appreciate a bit more. One of the first Americans we met on the plane loudly complained about how she was sick of "all the Indians cutting in front of her all the time". She also generally described India as dirty and the people lazy. Did she not realize that most of the people around us were Indians that were fluent in English and were simply too polite to argue with her. We found her to be an ugly American and were not interested in being associated with her. This experience made us appreciate the Americans that we had met in Kolkata who were cut from different cloth.
After boarding the last plane for the flight to Detroit, our captain informed us that there was a problem with the flush handle on the toilet and management had decided that since it was unreasonable to expect the passengers to "hold it" for the one hour flight to Detroit the flight was being cancelled. Having just arrived from India where it was common to see busses held together with twine, overloaded transportation of all types, bamboo scaffolding constructed on the sides of high rise buildings, and leaking boats that were considered OK as long as water being bailed out was keeping up with water coming in...this toilet flush button didn't seem like it should be a big concern. But this is how it is in America. They put us up in the Sheraton and here I am using their computer and enjoying our accommodations at the expense of the airline that cancelled the flight. It is good to be home. Rog

Final Thoughts from Roger:
India has been a great place to visit. There is so much history and beauty here, although we sometimes have to look past the dirt and grime to appreciate where we are. A land of contrasts that just don't seem to end.... Clear skies with hardly an airplane to be seen, but smoke and smog that often causes haze that limits our vision and makes it difficult for us to breathe. Beautiful and colorful women's clothing to be seen at all times day and night, but some of those same outfits being worn digging trenches alongside the road as the women also work construction jobs. Churches, mosques, and temples all claiming their spaces and offering conflicting belief systems. Children dressed neatly in uniforms going off to school in a taxi or rickshaw and passing naked children on the street that will probably never see the inside of a classroom. Filthy blankets and clothing belonging to street people who live just outside our hotel where we have a beautiful garden with blossoming flowers, hot showers and AC. Nice, comfortable and smooth Metro (subway) but when you get off you can ride in a rickshaw pulled by a barefoot man sharing the road with buses, taxis, motorcycles, bicycles, tuk-tuks, goats and cows.

Probably the most refreshing thing about India is the welcome that we have felt everywhere we have traveled. All seem ready to help with directions and most people smile and act very agreeable. Just this morning I saw two children (probably siblings) fighting as we got off of a ferry that had brought us across the river. The boy had the girl by the hair and appeared to be very angry with her. Adults nearby appeared to be concerned and ready to assist if necessary. This aggression was very unusual to see and it made me realize how seldom we have seen any conflict here. Pretty amazing in a city of some 15,000,000 people. I think they somehow realize that if they don't make efforts to get along with each other the whole system cannot survive. Maybe that is what we are also learning about the entire world as we rub shoulders with Yoshi from Hiroshima (when I met him and he told me where he was from I said, "I'm so sorry about what happened there". Then we met Chii from Denmark (a Viet Nam refugee) and again I felt that I needed to say "Sorry about what happened in your homeland". Have we really done enough to try to get along with the rest of the world? Why are so often involved in conflicts? Can our world survive if America doesn't make a greater effort? I'm not really sure what that might look like but I'm pretty sure that it doesn't look like guns and bombs.

Another refreshing thing about being here has been getting to know the boys at Daya Dan. Here in the midst of great poverty and pollution is a mission where handicapped boys (1st floor)and girls (3rd floor) are cared for in a loving atmosphere and stimulated with the help of volunteers from all over the world. I had the fortune to meet and care for many of the kids there. Bernard, with legs badly twisted and incapable of supporting him, always had a big smile and would unfailingly ask "Book?" and often I would sit beside him to read. Rakesh, also unable to walk, usually had a story to tell (often with many embellishments so I didn't know what to believe) and Rahul, who could walk with a slight limp, was very capable and eager to learn, assumed many resposibilities and liked to have us think he ran the place. I was nearly convinced until he got put in his place by Sister Jonava for using a book without permission! Joakim, Joy, Ankur, Dilip and Anand-all with problems but just the same kids that love to laugh, play with balloons, eat ice cream, and play catch even if that means rolling a tennis ball to one another on the floor(this was Bernard's favorite thing to do because he could actually trap the ball between his legs if it rolled up to him slowly and he could even throw the ball. If the ball rolled slightly out of his reach he would laugh so hard that he would tip over and wouldn't be able to sit up again without help. This always made him laugh even more!).

As great as the kids are I have to admit that I really did not expect to meet people here from so many different countries of the world. Each morning we would meet at Mother Teresa's Mission (just a minute or two from our hotel) for breakfast and visit with other volunteers who have come to help. Ususally there were 75-125 volunteers and soon we were striking up conversations and learning about each other. It really was amazing how it seemed that everyone had come with a giving heart and I felt that all were good peole to know. Our final evening will be spent at Blue Sky Restaurant on Sudder Street sharing a meal with many of the friends that we have made while here in Kolkata. Some will visit us in the states and we look forward to seeing them again whenever the opporunity may arise. Sayaka from Osaka, Japan had just met us a day or so before it was time for us to say goodbye. I didn't even know her name and she didn't know mine but when I told her it was our last day she started to get teary and fanned her face. She apologized and said she will miss us! I laughingly said, "You just met us!" "But, I will miss your smile", she replied. And I will miss hers as well.

Final Thoughts from Jane:
Did my mom know when she taught me the Prayer of St. Francis of Assisi that it would some day make me realize I was destined to come to Mother Teresa's in Kolkata. That prayer hung in my childhood home, today in my bedroom and over Mother Teresa's tomb. I leave knowing I made little difference to most here who need so much...but also knowing Roger and I did bring a bit of love and happiness to a few...Dilip, Bernard, Rakesh, Mukul, Rahul, Joakim, Prince, Anamitia, Bovita, Maya, Shoba and probably one of the last smiles for Mita and Paruiti. And for that...and much more...I feel privileged and thankful.

Hi all,
Soon we'll be home and hopefully, seeing many of you!!
I'm trying to get it all on paper before we leave tomorrow as I know memories fade and I want to capture them while still very vivid in my mind. So here it goes:
Train Ride:
One free day (Thursday is the free day), we went to Howrah Station , asked around a bit, then hopped a train to Shantinikitan which is about 3 hours away--round trip tickets for two cost 212 Rs. (about $4.50)!! Soon we were passing rice paddies, mustard fields and livestock. Shantinikitan was founded by Tagore, beloved poet, who won the first Nobel Prize for India. He set up a university with outside classrooms and buildings with many windows and varying rooftops so one could enjoy the sky from all roof decks. He was Gandhi's friend also. On the way home, a man insisted his young nephew should shake our hands as we were the first foreigners he'd seen. Another lady wanted her baby to touch us and another had her 5 year old son count to 100 for us. Celebrities!!
Singing:
Sofia loves music. At Kalighat, she had many patients singing while trying to teach her a Bengali song. On the bus one day, she led us singing, "Whenever I wake up...before I put on my make up...I say a little prayer for you!" Tom wanted to go down the aisle asking for rupies...often little kids jump on the bus, sing and then ask for rupies...so why not???
Vendors -Part 2:
I had been wondering why there were so many vendors with so little to sell and always in miniature packages. Duh!!! The vendors can't afford more inventory and their customers are living hand-to-mouth so they can't buy more than a day's supply.
Ornate Gates:
As we ride the bus past streets crowded with "normal sights," every once in a while, we'll go by a tall wall. If we keep our eyes on that wall, soon we'll see an ornate gate and then get a short glimpse of how the rich live here: fancy white houses surrounded by lovely gardens and protected by guards. Strangest thing is, the homeless use those same walls to erect their tarps over their campsites. In this case, the grass is definitely greener on the other side of the wall!!
Chi:
Chi just graduated from medical school and before she starts full time work, she wanted to help at Mother Teresa's. She is always cheerful and friendly. She knew we were Americans and we asked where she was from...and without any anger or resentment, she told us she was a Viet Nam refugee. Her family had fled to Denmark when she was a baby. So once again, we felt like apologizing. This time we did say sorry for the war that caused your country so much pain. How many more wars will we feel necessary??
Neighbors:
Here's a strange set of neighbors: right next Mother Teresa's House is a Communist building with a portrait of Lenin and proudly flying the Communist flag. That's India!
Mommy and Daddy:
It seems we have adopted many along the way as they call us Mommy and Daddy and look to us for a bandaid, koolaid, peanut butter or just a hug: Noor, Sofia, Tom, Jake, Maria, Melissa and Crystal. Guess being the oldest around is nice sometimes.

Things we've seen more on the street of Kolkata than anywhere we've ever been:
people, black hair, black eyes, rickshaws, men wrapped in towels, spitting, peeing, vendors, flip flops, trash, bangles (bracelet indicating married), nursing dogs, homeless campsites, barber shops, men being shaved, torn up sidewalks, shrines, cooking over chulas (small charcoal grill), nose picking, ornate ear rings, yellow & gold marigolds, beautifully dressed women, begging, people sleeping anywhere & everywhere, taxis, buses...and more people...all to the sounds of horns blaring.
Daya Dan's Send Off:
The other volunteers, Sister and kids escorted us up to a large room and had us sit down. Then Binoy (autistic and rather poorly behaved boy) began to play the drums with expertise and vigor as all joined in singing "Drummer Boy" and then "We Thank You, We Love You, We'll Miss You, Come Back Someday." What a moving and proud time for us...and Binoy!!

Warning:
You may not recognize Rog when he gets home so I thought I'd give you a warning: He has grown a beard, wears crocks daily, has a leather strap tried to his cracked glasses to protect them from any more attacks by the kids, prefers to walk in the street rather than the sidewalk...but weight and good nature is about the same!!
Saturday:
Saturday we head to the nearby park. Each volunteer is assigned a boy or two. First we pass a park full of fun equipment and lots of trees & flowers. It's locked. Then we go into the park that's mostly dirt with no equipment. Today we brought the kites Rog & I purchased that they had decorated yesterday during craft time. Most had so much glued on them we knew from the get go they would not fly--but then few boys can run very fast so atleast they could enjoy their fancy kites as they skimmed the ground behind them!!! Some kites lasted a few minutes and one made it the whole hour. The kites may not have soared--but spirits did as they enjoyed them!
Sunday:
Church with the kids is always lively and give us much to reflect on. When we arrive, the kids are dressed in their Sunday best and are practicing the songs they'll be singing. Both girls from the top floor and boys join together to make up this "choir." One of the boys plays the bongos & several shake tambourines. Louder is better in their minds. A priest comes and says mass and one of the boys serves as an altar boy--(a volunteer stands right outside the door to help whenever). The priest today talked about the day the children will get to turn in their earthly bodies for their heavenly bodies. Since most of them are deformed in some way, that message certainly meant more to them than it ever meant to me. Throughout the service, the kids are quieter and seem more in tune than any other time of the week. We feel honored to be there.

Hi to all,
One week to go so we are feeling both sad to leave all the kids Sisters, and volunteers we've connected with and ever so anxious to hug our grandbabies again!!

Mother Teresa
It seems that I've written a lot about a lot of things but not enough about what has been a daily feeling here...Mother Teresa. Each morning we walk by her tomb where a different quote from her is written and then the Sisters and volunteers pray one of her prayers: "Dear Lord, I kneel before you since every good and perfect gift must come from you. I pray give me skill to my hands, clear vision to my mind, and kindness & meekness to my heart. Give me singleness of purpose, strength to lift up part of the burden of my suffering fellowman and a true realization of the priviledge that is mine. " And with those words fresh on our lips, we go to love the mentally/physically disabled boys, healthy orphans, and for this final week, I'll be with the sick and dying in Kalighat, where the first words you read are "Welcome to Mother's First Love." Then right before you walk into where the beds line the walls, another sign reads "Do small things with much love." So even though Mother Teresa is not here in person, her spirit of loving and caring for others fragrances everyday here...while working and walking the streets. It makes it easy for me to hug the begging children and to smile at the homeless camped on the street. I wish I could give each of them a home, a job or atleast some food... I pray that this fragrance remains fresh and strong in my life.

Kalighat
I worried that maybe this would be more than I could handle but remembered I'd prayed "for the strength to life up part of the burden of my suffering fellowman"...and it was there. Within minutes, I was helping feed, dress, pass out meds, wash beds, massage arms & legs...all with a smile and best of all, receiving smiles back! I wasn't even sure that one lady I was massaging and humming to was even alive until right before I left, I covered her with a blanket and hugged her and a ever so weak smile spread across her face. Though few speak any English, many fill my ears with their story and I just nod the Indian nod which is something like a figure eight so seems to be a yes, no and maybe all wrapped into one. The time passes quickly and a good feeling swells up in me as I leave. I think a nurse or doctor must truly know how that feels!!!

Meat Markets:
While I'm on the subject of dying...let me tell you about the meat markets. We never had meat so fresh in the states!! As you walk down the street. you'll see goats and sheep tied to the legs of a table and large baskets covered with a net of chirping chickens under the table. You can guess what the butcher is doing on top of that table and what hangs from the hooks over that table. We have been vegetarians since we came to India.

Frederika:
Frederika is a vibrant 14 year old from Argentina that can talk faster and with more expression than anyone I've ever met. Her eyes sparkle and hands move rapidly as she tells me about things in her country and ask me about mine. She loves American stars and can't believe I was at an Elvis concert. But mostly, she loves the kids at Shishu Bhavan and they love her!! She runs from one to another pinching cheeks, pushing swings, catching sliders and laughing always. She begged her mom to let her adopt Govita!! (She reminds me so much of my Bekah when she was about that age in Puerto Rico at a preschool for the poor.) But one night, she and her mother came to our room (they had been there visiting and eating peanut butter sandwiches a few days before)...and she looked terrible. She had a high temp, her stomach was sick and she could hardly breath. Her mother was so worried. She had talked to her insurance company and gotten the name of the doctor she should go to but was having trouble figuring out how to get there as the mother spoke so little English and Frederika was too ill to talk much. Luckily, we had minutes on our India phone, so we called and found out his location. Her mom and she had not gone out after dark before and I could see fear in her mother's eyes so I offered to go with them. With phone and address in hand, we got a taxi and as usual, the driver was ever so helpful. He used my phone and got directions from the doctor and took us to the door making sure first it was the right place. There was a crowd waiting so I figured we'd be there for some time but withing ten minutes, the doctor was checking Frederika, writing down three prescriptions and even calling the pharmacy all the while I helped with translations and held her mother's hand. It cost them about $10 for the visit and $3.50 for the three prescriptions. The taxi was waiting for us when we came out and soon we were back to the guest house sharing our granola bars and gatorade. The next morning, I checked on her and she was doing much better...both mom and daughter!!

Our Food Supply:
We came with a suitcase full of food and have not regretted it!! 30 lbs of nuts, 4 jars of peanut butter, 5 boxes of granola type bars, gatorade & crystal lite packages and 4 lbs of M & M's. I have raided the suitcase much more often as Rog has loved eating the many types of food available here: dahl with rice and vegetables with masala(spices) which is the most common meal here, curds, somosas, Chinese food and many types of bread. At least I like the breads!! Our peanut butter sandwiches have also been just what three other volunteers have needed so we've had company for lunch three times and shared peanuts with many others. When we were on our Sunderban trip, we offered Tom and Sophie a crystal lite package & Sophie said, "Look, Mommie brought Kool-Aid for us!" I have not been quite so generous with my M & M's but I have shared a few!!!

Man on the Street:
Every morning we pass a man who lives on the street in front of our guest house. He only has one leg and his pigment is patchy. As soon as he sees us, he puts his hands together and bows which we return. We have never seen him beg but often we and others give him food and other things that he arranges neatly around himself...his store. Often many surround his store buying items or just visiting. He seems so content. We got to thinking...why not be content. He pays no rent, electricity or water bill, doesn't have house repairs or much cleaning to do and has lots of friends. At night, he just puts all his store inventory in a big bag, drapes a mosquito net using sticks over him and curls up under a blanket. In the morning, he hobble overs to the nearby water supply, cleans up and is soon back to selling his odd assortment of used items (much like a garage sale). It seems like a fairly good life...until I remember that in August and September, the monsoons will flood the streets. We won't be here to see what the man on the street lives then.

Internet Cafe:
Since I just spent the last two hours here in the internet cafe uploading pictures and typing an update, I thought I should describe this place. You may be picturing me in a cafe like in the USA. Wrong. The entire room is about 12 feet long and about 5 feet across. There are six computers on each side and the wobbly chairs we sit on are back to back. You have to ask others to move when you try to walk in or out. There are two fans, but only one works and usually, the one light is not on...but it's cheap...only 10 rupies (about 23 cents) an hour...and if I have any trouble--the young guy in charge is happy to help!!! He knows me well. Times up! If you are still reading this, you're probably ready to quit too!!

Bollywood Movie: My Name is Kahn

I would have cried had I seen it in the USA (Ok, I admit I cry during Hallmark commercials) but seeing it here having passed a mosque where many Muslins were praying, tore us both up. Roger wanted to stand up and say he was sorry, something like that could and did happen in the USA. In short, the movie was about an autistic, Muslin Indian man who had moved to San Fransico where his son was killed in the backlash of 9/11. After much diversity, he finally got to tell Obama (note not Bush) face to face, " My name is Kahn and I am not a terrorist." It was in Bengali but the facial expresions told the story clearly. Looking at the exiting crowd of Indians, we were overwhelmed with the realization that the prejudices many of us Americans have against the Muslims (and it also showed our prejudices against the blacks), is felt even here--half way around the world. The movie has been a major box office hit here for over two weeks so many of the people we've met in the streets lately have see it and yet still treated us so kindly. I hope many Americans--especially Obama--see the movie and also let Kahn's message sink deep in their hearts--as it did ours.

Add on to our Sunderban trip:

How could I have forgotten to write about my visit to the local elementary school??? As I walked by a tiny building with no outside walls, I saw about ten small children sitting on a weaved mat with slates in front of them. I stopped and smiled. The teacher smiled back and soon she had the children singing to me and reciting probably poems. I in turn, had them join hands and taught them Ring around the Rosie and then Head/Shoulder/Knees and Toes. We were all laughing--the common language between us. They were so precious I could have stayed there all day!!

Kids Playing in the Streets:

Every time I walk down a street, there they are: kicking balls or rocks, swinging sticks, flying homemade kites (over 6 lanes of traffic and electrical lines), making small fires, throwing stones at dogs, rolling tires between the traffic, begging--in other words doing everything we don't let our kids do and with no supervision in sight!! They would be so bored living in Dexter!

Building:

Amidst all the commotion, there is building going on. Next door, a 7 story building is going up. All the scaffolding is bamboo and twine. They carry the bricks and cement up one load at a time in large baskets on their heads. Manual labor is every where. Where they are putting in tile, men and women are digging the holes with shovels and picks. Where they are tarring, men and women are building fires to heat the tar, using buckets to spread it and finally, a roller to smooth it. We have seen one large rolling machine so guess they don't do it all by hand.

Gotta run. Take Care.

See the Journey:
We left on Sunday morning for Sunderbans Tiger Reserve with very little information other than Serena and the eleven other girls from Canada had gone a week or so before us and really had a great time. We contacted Kamal (their guide) and he said that it would be cheaper if we found more people to go on the trip so we spread the word and on Sunday morning twelve of us got into three taxis to go to the train station. Two American, two Mexican, one Aussie, and the rest Italian.
Before we got on the train the Italians decided that they did not want to go by train and chose to find their own way to Sunderbans (all seven of them in one taxi). Kamal explained that the taxi ride would be easier and maybe quicker but he believed we'd enjoy our trip much more because we would "see the journey." And that we did. See it, feel it, smell it and love it!!
The rest of us (which we nicknamed SJ for See the Journey) got on the train which was very crowded and traveled for about 1 1/2 hours southwest to Canning (the end of the line). There we walked through town before boarding a boat to cross the river. The tide was low so we walked though four or five boats stranded in the mud before arriving at the one that was actually floating in water. These boats acted as a boardwalk for us so we wouldn't get all muddy. Many people who did not pay extra for the "boat boardwalk" were walking through muck above their ankles to get to the boat. The boat held about forty people easily but at least 120 packed on and away we went across the river. No life rings but I did notice a pail that was being used to bail--it only had a small hole in it. It felt good to feel the breeze off the water and breathe air that was mostly free of pollution (until the diesel fumes blew our way). After crossing the river we jumped onto a motorcycle rickshaw (flatbed with a canopy for shade and our legs crossed on the platform or hanging off the side). The road was ROUGH and we were jarred around for about 1/2 hour as we rode along soaking in the sights of people washing clothes and swimming in hand dug ponds beside their houses. These ponds are their sole source of fresh water because the river here is salty due to its proximity to the Bay of Bengal. We also saw many people threshing rice, transplanting rice, washing dishes, and even some playing cricket. All were friendly and most smiled and said "hello!"
Sore and ready for a break we go off the rickshaw only to get on another one for a bit longer this time. We stopped at a small market town in Gosaba and ate lunch...no spoons so pour some dal on your rice and eat it with...what else? Your fingers!! As the guide told us "God didn't give us hands just for holding a glass of beer." Then onto another boat powered by a bamboo rod and very tired, old looking man. Sure that we would soon be arriving at the hotel we go onto yet another rickshaw (this time powered by bicycle) but still a very cramped space on a flat bed. More beautiful country side with fields, ponds, mud homes, and more welcoming smiles. Just one more rickshaw ride and we finally arrived at the hotel around 3 pm.
After a rest and settling into our rooms we had just decided to walk around the village before dark when we heard from Gabby from the defected group (by cellphone). The others that had come by taxi were in need of rejoining our group as they could find no place to sleep--as it turned out they'd had a miserable day trying to make connections --we were so glad we'd not been with them. Some of us then walked around the village and were invited into a local home for chai (tea mixed with milk) and we visited for about 1/2 hour (much translation going on as Bengali, Italian, Spanish and English were all there). Sophia asked the Bengali women to show her some dance moves but they were too shy to do so inside the house where the men were, so the women went outside and danced (Sophia with her long curly blonde locks and the Indian with long straight black locks) while the men talked about Soccer (futbol), Cricket, Farming, Exporting, etc.
As we walked back to our hotel the moon was shining brightly over the Ganges River and Sophia (Mexico), Tom (Australia), Roger and Jane (SJ group) stopped to sit on the bank and enjoy the cool evening air coming off the river. We didn't know until morning that a tiger had crossed the river late that same night and attacked a local man and a girl in their home just a mile or two from where we sat on the bank. The girl was mauled badly and was rushed to the hospital where she died. Our guides took us to the site of the attack and told us that the tiger was still inside the house. Approximately one thousand excited people from the surrounding area were all gathering around the house to see the tiger (in the past they would have killed it but now the tiger is tranquilized and returned to the Reserve). We approached cautiously and everyone seemed to be excited and smiling. I felt bad for the family who had suffered, but the guide explained that this is like "Tiger Festival" A loudspeaker was set up and it was announced that water was being brought in for those who were thirsty. The house was made of mud with a thatched roof and a nylon net was securely tied around the entire thing. A tiny hole in one end allowed a glimpse inside but when Jane looked in she couldn't see anything because it was dark inside. Someone told us that the tiger was sleeping in there. A man came along with a tranquilizer gun and started to cut a hole through the net and roof of the building just a few feet away from where I stood. I started to imagine what I would do if the tiger pushed it self through that hole....Then they thought of a better plan and climbed to the top of the house and made the there instead. After an hour or so we decided to return to the boat and continue our trip down the river. We later heard that they had to shoot five times before successfully tranquilizing the tiger.
We floated along for hours seeing a few monkeys, deer, storks and other birds and lot of mangrove trees. A couple times we stopped and climbed a tower to look over the top of the trees. At each stop there was the shrine to the Hindu goddess of tigers. We had lunch on the boat, soaked up lots of sun and visited with the crew and Sunderban guide who was required to be with us. We learned he lived on one of the islands in a house that was completed destroyed by a cyclone last year. He said he didn't know how long it would take him to earn the $150 it would cost to replace it. Besides his guide job, he tutored at night for about 20 students which earned him about an extra $4 per month. We tipped him generously.
About 7 p.m., we got back to the hotel ready for dinner, cold washing (no shower) and rest (on a one inch mattress.) A few cold beers were split between those who wanted some as we sat around visiting under the stars. The next morning--we headed back which meant: bicycle rickshaw to boat (this time we had to wade through the muck as it was very low tide) to motorcycle ricksaw to boat to motorcycle rickshaw to train to taxi to our new hotel--the Baptist Missionary Center which happened to be the cleanest, nicest place we've been in India!! A stand up shower with warm water!!!! I think my new life slogan will be: See the Journey
Enjoy!

Take My Baby: As I was leaving Shishu Bhaven, an skinny, wrinkled, old lady with a tiny baby hanging over her shoulders approached me. The baby's arms hung weakly and the women's eyes were full of pain. She began to pleadingly speak (probably in Bengali) to me trying to give the baby to me as she spoke. I froze. A Sister was near and I asked her what the woman was saying. Sister told me she wanted me to take the baby. She was the grandmother and could not care for it and work. If she didn't work, she could not eat. The parents had run away. It was all I could do not to hug that woman and the baby but I was afraid she'd force the baby in my arms and run. I asked the Sister if she could help but she was only visiting from another center. I asked her to tell the woman I was very sorry but I would not take the child. She should go in and talk to the Sister in the office and she would know what to do. Her look told me that she'd had rather give it to me than to put it in the orphanage. Could anything be more heartbreaking than to be so desperate that you would give away your grandchild? Being a grandmother myself, I could not imagine the pain but then could I watch my grandchild starve instead ? Pray was all I could do and what I ask you to do for her, the baby and the millions of other here who are so desperately poor.

Today we'll be packing up our bags and moving them to another guest house that'll store them for the three days we'll be gone on a trip to the Sunderbans--a tiger reserve!! Rog told our kids that since I hadn't gotten rid of him in Kenya when I insisted we go looking for lions--now I'm trying by insisting we go looking for tigers! Underneath his mild resistance, I know he is glad I want to go and take him too!!! Anyways--don't worry if you don't hear from us for several days as we probably won't be near computers..but an extra prayer or two might be in order--just kidding.

Eureka!! My student, Dilip, said his first unprompted word (jump) yesterday and today, he said three more (go, monkey and elephant)!!! As I'd mentioned, he is about ten and probably was "tongue tied" until surgery about two years ago. Can't wait to see how fast he progresses now!!

Vendors: What can you do with a 4'x4'x4' area about 4' off the ground??? They sure know here--you can sell a little bit of any odd assortment--even if it's covered with soot! They may have two or three small packs of laundry soap, a comb or two, small container of single wrapped gum, a few bottles of soda, individual size bags of chips or some other who know's what snack, a few packages of red circles that the Hindu women wear, batteries, bar of soap (I think), pretty (though dirty) scarves, toilet paper (which is about 1/10 the size of USA single rolls), many food items now wrapped that we have never seen the likes of, etc, etc, etc and almost all have small packets of what I hear is similar to tobacco but more addictive. Mind you, the store next door may have exactly the same items...and the one next to it also. If you go down another street...the items change to cans of oil, hand tools, nails, etc--again the same as the store next to it and just a few of each. Another street...rows of stores selling clothes, shoes, cloth. Every ten feet on every street, a vendor is selling fresh fruit and vegetables artistically arranged. Another selling coffee or tea that they serve in a two or three ounce clay pot or plastic container--both of which they will throw on the ground as soon as they are done (providing sine fun when we step on those clay pots and hear them crack). There's the guy wrapping tobacco in a leaf to sell. And also a very efficient little kitchen set up selling various ready made foods like eggs on toast, chapattis, chickpeas cooked up in a spicy looking mix, potatoes boiled in a stew like mixture, fried vege burgers (again, I'm guessing here as we haven't tried any of them). And Kellogs has nothing on what several vendors are selling...puffed rice (looks just like Rice Krispees) made right in front of your eyes!! All this happening on the sidewalks that as I've mentioned, broken up bricks and dirt and crowded with people and the street people's campsites. Makes a walk around the block quite a trip!

The Newly Weds: It was a touching scene we happened on. A newly wed couple, still in their wedding attire (much like the USA) and holding hands, knelt at Mother Teresa's tomb, prayed and then both kissed the tomb and left. A vision of them as young children under her care came to mind--perhaps but for whatever reason, they felt it important to share their special day with her.

Trusting: I stopped to pick up some water and when I handed the clerk a 500 rupee bill (about $11), he said he couldn't take it cause it had a tear that was taped. I told him I didn't have any other money and he said--just take the water and pay me tomorrow. Now the water only cost 23 rupees and though I'd been there before--it reinforced the feeling of trust and kindness we get from so many locals here. And that same type of thing happened right here in this internet cafe when the clerk didn't have change--he said the same thing--pay me tomorrow. It's a nice feeling.

Well--the kids await me ... Take care and hopefully I'll be telling you about the animals we saw at Sunderbans next!
Jane

Whew--I am getting behind in my writing but days fly by and memories crowd each one so here I go again:

McDonald's:

Yup--there is one here and it's the nicest and cheapest one we've ever been in!! Complete with a doorman!!! We ordered 2 chicken sandwiches (first meat in India), 1 vege burger (no beef sold here), 1 large fry (which came with chatpati spice mix), 1 coffee, l large diet coke (about the size of USA med but oh so good) and 2 ice cream cones--all for just a little more than $8!!! But here, spending $8 is a lot for one meal. I felt like it was a little bit of heaven!!

Street Kids:

They are everywhere and every Sunday, the Brother of the Missionaries of Charity open their gates to the street children from the slums by the Howrah bridge--close to the City of Joy. We joined them on Valentine's Day which was ironic as I had given Rog that book for Valentine's Day!! As we entered, we were mobbed by about 150 screaming kids. First task was to wash them so 10 by 10 they came, striped and we scrubbed them down with soap and cold water. There were lots of shrieks of both joy and surprise as we dumped the water over them. Then they put their filthy clothes back on (oh how I wished I had clean clothes to give them), oiled & brushed their hair. Playtime followed--would you believe in a dirt covered courtyard. Hockey Pockey was a big hit. The kids then sat down and given tin dishes and glasses which encouraged loud banging until we filled each bowl with rice, dahl and some other mixture and glasses with water. Note no utensils were used--which is the norm here. Most Indians even in the resturants eat with their fingers. I wished for more order but had to remind myself that these kids are use to no order--they have learned to scramble to survive. As they finished, they left each with a banana in hand and a huge smile. We were exhausted and wet to the bone, our clothes were filthy but we knew 150+ kids had gotten a lot of love this Valentine's Day!!

A Volunteer story:

It's been such a privilege to work with so many volunteers from so many countries. They are very dedicated and fun too. Thank goodness English is the universal language so we hear new stories everyday. Like peeking into another life each day. . Anyway--yesterday we met Jimmy from Australia. He is on a 3 month tour and just stopped in about a week ago to visit the museum at the Mother House and happened to talk to one of the sisters--and he is still here and doesn't know when he'll leave as he loves it so much. He said he had never considered volunteering here or anywhere before but here he is--like the 100+ each day!!

Speaking of volunteering--I better get to Shishu Bhaven now or I'll be late...

Take care, write and God Bless.

Hi All- Have been hearing lots about snowstorms back home which makes us appreciate the warm weather here even more. Sorry. Thought I'd fill you in what we do each morning at Daya Dan, which is the home for the physically/mentally young boys.

Daya Dan:
Rock Concert! That's what I think of when I enter Daya Dan each morning. Some boys will be beating on whatever they find, others will be shrieking and others jumping (similar to mashing) all the while several will be just lying in their bed. I'd love to take them to a real rock concert and see how they'd react. After we greet and hug the kids, we head to the wash room where we help wash bedding and clothes --all by hand. It's the only way our feet stay clean and our clothes get an extra washing. Then up to the roof to hang the wash. We look over such old, blackened and crumbing buildings many with gorgeous sari's hanging out the windows. One room has a balcony with a pot of bright red flowers blooming . A man comes out there to shave and eat breakfast. He looks so content with all. We then help some get dressed and the bell rings for a short morning prayer that includes asking God for help in making them a good boy. The meditation room is next for the kids who will be having lessons. Calm music and dim lights help settle them down. About 10 minutes later, each child finds his bag and teacher and goes to a study carousel.
My student is Dilip and Rog's is Jokim. Dilip is about ten, speaks very little Bengali, autistic and new to Daya Dan. His speech is very delayed as he had a tongue operation --not sure what kind-- two years ago. He came from another orphanage and there is little background info. So I started with the picture identification and the ABC's. There's a fair amount of teaching tools to use. He has made tremendous progress as he has a terrific memory. Already he can write and identify letters A - O--even when I mix them up. He has learned the names of over 20 pictures and is counting to 5. All seems to be rote memory so I am praying that he will make the transfer to understanding soon. I tried the Helen Keller approach pouring water in his hand and saying "water" and "panni" (Bengali) for water but no luck. We work about an hour and then he starts to get frustrated and tosses everything he can reach. That's my clue we are done!! As I work with him, I can hear one of the Sisters working with a more difficult boy. She is so loving, cheerful and positive!! Roger's student has a very short attention span so he also covers lots of material each day and progress is hard to measure has he has little communication skills.
Lunch comes next which means feeding several of the severely handicapped kids. It takes my appetite away!! Before we leave, we play with the kids a bit. After their afternoon naps, Roger will return to play with them more and I go to the two-three year old orphanage to play. We both arrive home exhausted in body but happy in spirit and ready for a shower--which is a pail and pitcher.

Smog:
If you took charcoal, ground it up fine, added dust and then heavily sprinkled it over everything, you'd know what covers Kolkata. Then mix that with the exhaust of masses of buses and you might understand why so many people around here spit so much. One person told us it was like smoking 25 cigarettes each day. We both usually need a tylenol and sometimes congestion medicine by the end of each day. We always knew we loved good country air and the rinsing provided by our many rains. It hasn't rained here since for several months so it's so dry --but they tell me the monsoon season which starts next month will bring lots of rain that will flood the streets but do little but move the garbage around leaving the buildings blackened.
So that's it for today.
Enjoy the USA!
Jane

---------------------------------------
Hi Kids,
So Mom could'nt get me run over yet...now she wants to go to the tiger preserve. We made arrangements today to leave Sunday morning and travel SE into the Ganges Delta Region. We will be out of contact until Tues. night. Some friends from Canada went last week and really enjoyed being in the country for awhile. They saw lots of birds and animals but not tigers. That would be OK with me!
I have been traveling to Daya Dan (Missionary home for handicapped children) twice daily and by the time we explore a bit, eat and take care of laundry, it is time for bed.
It has been great to get messages from all of you while we are here. It makes me feel like we aren't really half-way round the world!
Traveling by bicycle rickshaw last night I had to remind myself that the sights and sounds were really just a fleeting moment in my life. I mean it becomes so natural to be passing stands with freshly butchered meat hanging and laying out for sale (including heart, head, etc.), horns sounding and many vehicles crowding down a narrow street that it seems almost normal already.
It sounds like your days are probably more normal than ours. That is probably a good thing. Is anyone still snowed in? How about any recent changes in your homes? It sounds like everyone is busy. Grandpa and Grandma send hugs and kisses to all!!
Love,
Dad

Hi all,
Our days seem to get busier as we meet more people and arrange more outings. We hope all is well with you!!



Leper Colony:
Another experience that reached deep. About 1 hours from the Mother House, is a Leper Colony run by the Brothers of the Missionaries of Charity. Our guide welcomed us and gave us some background info about lepers. Research has found medicines that arrest it but not cure it. Good hygiene and proper nutrition help it from spreading though it is contagious. He explained that most of the lepers came to them too late to help lots because they were so ashamed. Most were thrown out of their homes and left to die. He stressed that they want people to come visit as they have felt so unwanted far too long. And so we went... The first room you enter is full of looms & spinners--about 50 of them. My heart was beating as fast as the beat of those looms as I saw the lepers with missing fingers, toes, limbs, ears, etc spinning and weaving the bedding we've been using for the kids we care for, the aprons we wear when we feed the kids and the Missionaries of Charity saris--every sister wears a sari weaved by a proud leper!!! Then we walked through their meticulously kept vege and flower gardens, past the goat, chickens & pigs, and by 3 fisheries. They are not only completely self sufficient, they also serve rice to 500 locals each week!! I said a quick prayer as we entered the hospital where 50 plus lepers sat up cross legged with their hands together. As we walked by, many humbly bowed and when I reached out to them, they embraced my hands with such tenderness and love in their eyes. Their need for the touch of my acceptance was so real I could almost see it. My teary eyes only saw their needy eyes. On the ride home, I let it all sink in. Truly it was the most outstanding intertwining of Gandhi --a strong believer in spinning & self-sufficiency--and Mother Teresa.

Volunteers:
-Met Yogshi and he told us he was from Hiroshima--we were silent for a time and then Roger said, "I'm so sorry for what happened there." He just shook his head and we went back to the job we were all doing together. My Dad fought in WWII. Doesn't make any sense to me.
-Met Jeaneane Fletcher's (Librarian at our local High School) nephew!! Small world.
-Met many Australians who are here for months as they get 3 months off after working in one place for 7 - 10 years. Another reason to live down under!
-Frederika (from Argentina) showed me her hairy legs today--she thought it was so funny not to be shaving!!
-Melissa from Oregon came up for lunch as she was dying for a peanut butter sandwich. (We took 4 jars with us!)

Gotta run--thanks for all your kind thoughts and prayers!!!

Hi all,
Bekah just sent me several questions she wondered about so thought I'd post my answers to her in case you were wondering also:

1. Are you working with the disabled children anymore or have you been moved to a different unit? Dad works all day with disabled boys 5- to 17 yr old. I work with him in the a.m. and with normal 2-3 yr olds in the p.m..
2. If so, are you separated and do you feel safe being separated from one another? We feel very safe though we are cautious and carry only small amount of cash and when I'm alone, I walk fast and don't talk to anyone.
3. Where are you sleeping? We are in a dorm room for four but we rented the whole room for two weeks. It's like a business/conference center one the bottom floor with rooms for those attending on the top floors. It's fairly clean, has air, and we have our own bathroom with hot water to fill pails that we use to wash us and our clothes in.
4. Where do you check the internet and how fast is the internet connection? Lots of internet cafe's close by and the connection is a bit slower than USA but not as slow as dial up!! The trickiest part is that the keys stick.
5. Where do you eat? We have been eating lunch in our room as we brought peanut butter and can buy bread easily. For supper, we walk the street looking for different places. Dad usually picks as I usually end up ordering bread and Coke and tasting whatever Dad orders. He has loved trying lots of Indian dishes and of course, loves them all. Diet Coke is a rarity in India--as our heavy people so they really don't need diet soda - so I buy two or three when I find them as we have a frig we can use where we are staying.
6. Do you have any free time and if so, what do you do during this free time? Not much free time but we try to walk to a different area each night in search of a place to eat. Thursday is the only day off and so we'll be writing about what we do those days.

Hi--it's a warm feeling to know that you guys are out there and we are connected!! We love hearing from you too. I need to let you know that often the keyboards we use stick a lot and I don't have a dictionary or spell check so please forgive my errors!!! As a teacher, that hurts to say.
Birthday Party-
Yesterday as I entered the young children's orphanage, I had to pass by several TV cameras. The children were all in the entry way and their faces were covered with frosting. Someone handed me a bag of balloons and said, "Blow." The faster I blew, the more children surrounded me covering me with frosting also. Turns out they were having a birthday party--probably happens once a month and who knows why cameras were there. In a little while, the children were ushered (not easily) back to their room where they immediately pulled down their pants and sat on the potty bench-a long bench with 25 holes. As a teacher, I always had a gathering spot--guess this was theirs!! After we washed all faces & hands, we put on shoes and took them to the playground. As I sat on the long swing that holds about 8 kids, Mahdamyati (SP???) jumped on my lap and took both my arms and wrapped them around her. When I tried to put one arm around another, she grabbed it back. She had a special dress on so I asked if it was her birthday celebration and found out it was so I sang Happy Birthday to her. That opened a flood gate as she insisted I sing it to her maybe 30 times during the next couple hours--which I was delighted to do. Soon it was time to go in and eat. As I fed one child who just grinned at me--and never noticed that the child next to him was picking out her carrots and putting them in his dish. Then back on that potty. I love counting, saying ABC's, singing itsy bitsy spider, Mary Had a Little Lamb, You are My Sunshine and other songs as they sit there smiling at me!!

Hi- I don't have much time tonight but have been wanting for a while to write about:

The Indian Man I Met on the Plane:

He was middle age and well dressed. He was flying to pick up his mother and bring her to live with him. He asked how we liked India and we said, we loved the people and the amazing old buildings. He said, "India is proof there is a God." I asked about the poverty. He looked down and said, "Many in India have much wealth but do not give. Americans are so fortunate and also have the heart to give." He went on to say that he thought it was because in America, we get the message that we should give and help others in many places--church, family and even our government. In India, they do not have that unifying factor.

Reflecting on his words, it made me realize that the message we get--to help others--was the new testament, Christ's message. Here I see so many temples and shrines and people praying individually in front of them. Even if there is a gathering, they are each quietly praying alone. It's like the new testament vs. the old testament. I was proud to be an American--as you should be too.

(Sorry this was a bit preachy but it was one of those WOW experiences.)

Namaskar (Hello in Bengali),
Each day is filled with new site and happenings that it's hard to even jot it all down...but here's a little piece of it:

Shishu Bhaven (Mother Teresa's Orphanage for small children):
I had been working with the physically/mentally handicapped children but yesterday, moved to the "healthy" children part. It's filled to the brim with 100 children under the age of about 7. As I walk in they all rush to me with open arms yelling, "Auntie" (which is what they call all volunteer women)--I wish I could pick them all up!! One little guy was just finishing his snack and offered the rest to me. I helped in the 2 yr old room of 21 kids who after they ate, all sat on one long potty as I counted them over and over until they were done. After putting various shoes on each, it was off to the playground. Now I know where some of the equipment the USA deemed unsafe is!! See saws, wooden swings, maypoles and cement slides with no rails--all surrounded by a cleverly painted wall of happy children and Sisters. The kids play vigorously as the hired ladies sit on benches combing lice out of hair and cleaning out ears. Gotta love it.


Did you know:

• Hindu turban is round. Sikh is round with a point, and the Muslin wear a small cap with no bill??
• Many Indians eat their food with their fingers--rice with sauce, mushed potatoes & beans, etc....and seldom do you see them use napkins...how do they manage that??
• One man can ride a bicycle down a busy, hectic, rough and narrow road with six dead chickens hanging from his handle bars and another ten tied to his fender...again how???
• Great recycling here as most food containers are simply newspapers folded up. Don't know if they were read first??
• You can make a bowl out of leaves by drying them on a round form...then just throw them on the ground with the rest of the trash when done!! Think Green!!

Enjoy!
Jane

Sunday Service:
After getting all the kids settled on a carpet in a small chapel, one of the small boys began to play on the bango drums while others shook their tambourines and all sang to the top of their voices--not exactly sounding like angels but surely with purest of hearts. What an inspiring service!! I was with Mukul helping him stand and sit as well as keeping his drool wiped and with a blind girl who happened to find me and hung on my pants. Rog had a squirrelly one on his lap. Needless to say, we didn't doze off. Mukul had greeted me when I arrived this a.m. handing me a string he had found. He was so proud to give me something. Rog has connected with several boys who enjoyed tossing a rag ball with him. A big part of our day is feeding those who can't feed themselves. Suffice it to say, it's a messy affair and we both agreed not to discuss it while we eat...or really anytime. We continue to watch and learn from the nuns and local workers... Smile and touch each one.
Volunteers at Mother Teresa's:
I understand the Tower of Babel now. Each morning the volunteers gather for breakfast (chai, bread & banana), announcements and prayers. It's a social time so there is lots of talking going on and you hear so many languages being spoken. We've met volunteers from: Ireland, Switzerland, Sweden, England, Italy, China, Japan, Spain, Mexico, Germany, Canada and good old USA. Most are young college kids and a few of us old folk. All are friendly and thank goodness, many speak English. We so admire the ambition and kind heart of the youth!!
Tuk-Tuk:
A tuk-tuk is a three wheeled taxi that is suppose to carry two or three but usually crams in four, five or six. It can go about 35 mph at full speed and that's the only speed they travel. At night, they are lit up like Christmas trees. The driver is an expert at dodging, swerving, honking and stopping on a dime. Often they try to pass each other and any other moving obstacle in the way. I feel like I'm in a Disneyland ride...but without any of the safety precautions.
Sidewalks of Kolkata:
Turn up all the noise around you, put something pretty rotten near you and then add these sights and you might have an idea of what the streets are like: broken, uneven bricks, protruding cement blocks, tree roots, broken glass, trash, homeless campsites, laundry, water gushing out of square basins where people are lathering up & washing every part of their bodies and others are scrubbing their laundry about every block, street vendors every couple feet selling odd and old collections of whatever, trash, dogs, outdoor kitchens cooking up a variety of smelly food, large pots of coffee, milk & tea steaming, shrines with dead and live flowers, walking vendors with baskets of fruit on their heads, charcoal grills made of clay with a variety of beans, potatoes and red carrots cooking in large, flat pans, vendors carrying large plastic bags of fish (heads & all), children playing with sticks/stones/brick pieces who run up to you & beg, goats, chickens, mice, and did I mention, trash. It's an obstacle course to say the least. Many times, it's so difficult to walk on, you just walk on the street and dodge the traffic. I chucked when I saw one sign that read: Accident Prone Area. That could be posted every foot of the way!! We sigh with relief when we get to our destination!!
Communist Rally:
While riding a bus today, we started to notice a large walking crowd carrying red flags with the hammer and sickle on them. The group kept getting larger and then trucks & buses of people with flags joined them. Our bus was creeping along and then several men started yelling and pounding on the side of the bus. We came to a halt and since we could not see wait. The crowd filled five blocks. We hoped the BBC would not get a picture of us as we weeded our way through the crowd to get back to our hotel.
Well, enough for tonight--except I think I gave some of you the wrong site to view our pictures and blog so I'll try again:
www.rogerandjane.shutterfly.com
www.rogerandjane.blogspot.com
Bekah--feel free to correct me if I got it wrong again!!!

Thanks for the emails some of you have sent.
We love hearing news from home!!
Jane and Roger

First Day in Mission

Hello All,

Words don't come easy when I think of today. Rog & I spent the morning in Dali Dan--home of the handicapped/mentally challenged orphans. Rog went back this p.m. and I went to the home of the young orphans. The need. The arms reaching for you. The love that is being so generously given by the nuns, the local workers and the volunteers. Mother Teresa spoke of seeing Christ in disgusting disguises and I thought of those words so many times. It took concentration to look beyond the drool, the malformations, the wet pants, the strange noises--but with the nuns as my example--it worked.
We took about 25 to a park and the boy I was with walked so slowly--it gave me much time to talk to him--to take in the scenes and stares around us. I have to admit that crossing the six lane crazy traffic was a bit scary and I prayed the whole time as we sloooowwwly made our way. Feeding time was a messy affair but there too, successful! The little ones in the afternoon just wanted me to hug them. Though most were probably two-three-four years old, few could walk well and even fewer could communicate. But everyone I spent time with--smiled!! I kept thinking of my healthy, boisterous, funny, mischievous, laughing grandchildren. In spite of all--I can't wait to go back tomorrow as I hope I learned things so I can be more effective. Africa was a stepping stone to today.
Keep all these little ones in your prayers--and us too!
Jane


If you have ever played Frogger on the computer you might know what it is like to cross the street here. The first night we were in kolkata we needed to cross the road after having dinner across from our hotel. Trucks, buses, bicycles, rickshaws, trolleys and taxis all presented a problem as we wove our way across six lanes and all I could think of was Frogger. Especiallly the part where he gets flattened! Last night we noticed that there is a real pedestrian crossing light just a short way down the street! So no more Frogger....
~Rog


Kids,
Wish you could have been with us today. We walked to the backpackers ghetto area here in the city and decided that it would be better to ride in a cycle rickshaw instead of risk getting run over by the traffic zooming down street inches away from all of the pedestrians. The rickshaw driver successfully deliverd us to our destination and at the same time provided us with a feast for our senses. Smells (not always bad-popcorn, nuts, bread, fruit), sights (shops and vendors selling everything imaginable), and sounds (honking, honking and more of the same!) I'll try to get a little video next time!
I'm pleased with the assignment that I have been given by the nun at Mother Teresa's. I will be working at a house for mentally and physically handicapped children. The day starts with 6 am Mass and will go until about 6 pm so we will be early to bed tonight!
Love to all, Dad

Today we walked where Mother Teresa walked. It is surreal to be here. We viewed her simple bedroom. We knelt at her tomb.

Flower petals formed the words: I did nothing. He did it all.

Her sisters and the love she spread are all around. At 3 today we will go to the orientation. We are eager to begin.

Arrived in Kolkata

Hi back home,
We are two among 17 million now in Kolkata! And so far I have not seen another white person so that makes us a real small minority!! We arrived at our hotel without a hitch and it's quite nice--Indian standards. We have a sit down toilet and hot water so we are happy!

SO if you are reading this you probably want to hear more about what's been happening:
Gov't School in Dehli
Yesterday we found a 1-5 grade gov't school and asked if we could visit. They happily let us come in and see the kids as they sang their morning routine--we could only decipher the ABC's. THey sang loudly with smiling faces. Then the older girls shook out some blankets and laid them down on the cement floor. THe kids sat crosslegged and pulled out books to read from their own backpacks. One girl had her little sister probably because she had to watch her. There were about 85 in each class. It broke my heart. I offered the teacher some of the books I'd brought from my classroom and she gladly took the easier ones. I felt like I was spreading the remains of my teaching career--some in Africa and now India. The teacher showed us her lesson plans that were very detailed and complete with her own illustrations. Teachers everywhere care lots for their students.
Shrines/Temples:
Everywhere! The buildings all around may be falling down or made of poor material but next to most was a well kept and often very beautiful small shrine with flowers & fresh paint . And if there's any hill or mountain, there is a temple on top. Each small village we drive through--there's atleast one temple. In Pushkar, a temple on every block. We wonder who is keeping them up and how are they paying for it?? Did you know there are over 3 million Hindu gods and I think we've seen statues of about 1/4 of them--each unique. Also, Raj (Rog) may be a king's name but Jain (pronounced Jane) is a religion. SO there.
Women/Men:
Of the multi million drivers (cars, trucks, ricksaw, bicycle, motorcycle) we've seen, only two of them were women. Men also run all the little shops, hotels, businesses, and seem to be the only ones sitting in groups chatting. Women we see gathering sticks, working in fields, working construction, sweeping streets, caring for children, cooking in front of their homes, shepherding and always in their beautiful saris that somehow appear to be clean and glistening in the sun!!
Construction:
Delhi will be hosting the Commonwealth Games in Sept/Oct this year so it's preparing in a massive way. Hundreds of huge buildings, metro system, sports arenas, gardens, roadways, sewers , pipelines, electric lines, etc. etc. are being built--we wonder how all of it will ever get done??? It will certainly make Delhi a more modern city. Signs every where read: Under Construction for a Better Tomorrow.
Trees:
Rog noticed so many trees that seemed to be trimmed of all small branches so he asked around and found out they trimmed them for fire wood but soon the monsoon would come and those trees would send out new branches. In this way, they are preserving their trees unlike in Kenya where they chopped the trees down to make charcoal.
Water:
Water here is holy. Lakes are surrounded by ghats--holy places with steps down to the water where people would bath in the holy water as part of their religion. It was sad to see several of these lakes almost empty knowing how precious the site was to them. Last year was a very dry year so they are praying for a long monsoon season this year.
Girlfriends:
I was talking to a local 17 year old boy and asked him if he had a girlfriend. He said no girlfriends were Mom and Dad's problem! (Arranged marriages still prevalent.)

And finally...Roger has found a place where his wardrobe is admired! He has gotten many compliments on his shirts and his hat (check him out in the pictures).

We are anxious to meet the Missionaries of Charity Sisters tomorrow!!!
God Bless all,
Jane and Roger

Our Last Day in Delhi

Got up early to go to the school that is just a few doors down the street from our hotel. The teacher welcomed us and invited to come in and visit the classrooms. 85 students in one class with no chairs! All sit or kneel on the floor while at school. More on this later from Jane.

Met Josh and Mary at our hotel this morning (from Oregon). They are on a trip that reminds us of the adventure of our Europe trip 35 years ago. They quit their jobs and are going to be traveling all over for 5+ months. We invited them to join us for the day as we toured Delhi.

Went to the largest mosque in the world (Jamal Masud- see photo above), the national museum where we saw really old figures, carvings,statues, etc. Very interesting!!! Many items were B.C. including a beautiful dancing girl from 2800 B.C.

Also toured the Red Fort that showplace of the Mughal Empire. The Shah lived here in splendor with unimaginable luxuries-fountains, pools, gardens, baths with warm water, others with hot water, others with scented water... just because he wanted to please all the women in his harem. What a guy!

Then on to Lodhi Garden (a beautiful and shady respite from all the hustle and bustle of the city.) And Humayan's tomb (see photo left)...a huge structure built about 400 years ago to house his remains. Amazing that the old wooden doors seem surprisingly intact considering their age. What some people won't do to make sure that future generations visit their grave.

Tomorrow we leave Delhi for Kolkata.

Pushkar

Hello all,
We are in Pushkar another day as we love it here...slower pace...great shops and a chance to upload pictures and email.

And now for what we've been up to--

Camel Ride!! We mounted camels and took off for the local desert. Talk about feeling like you were in the Lawrence of Arabia film! The ride was a slow up and down movement when they walked and when they took off trotting--it shook every bone until I relaxed and just bouced along. We were on the top of a dune at sun down--showing our guides how to play tic tac toe in the sand. Rog also showed them how to juggle with some stones we found. Guess he wants to teach the world to juggle!

Have you ever felt you made a bad decision?? One of the palaces we toured took 12 years and about 20,000 workers to build--and after four years was deserted due to lack of water!!!

Food: We've been experiencing with the help of our driver, Noor. Rog has found all to his liking--aren't you surprised?? I so far have liked the chapatties(flat bread), a potato/onion bread and a banana/coconut pancake. A couple days ago, I declared a no Indian food day--to give my stomach a needed break. A couple Cipro helped also. It amazes me that food can be so different! Last night, Noor arranged with our hotel cook to give me cooking lessons. I rolled chapatties, fix a vege stir fry with plenty of spices. We devoured both on the roof under the stars--with a coke!!!

Roger is feeling very special as Raj means king so everyone makes a fuss over his name!!

Also, Noor calls us Mommy and Poppy now. Several locals thought Roger was an Indian and that we were his parents!! He gets a big kick out of calling us that and hugs us tightly when introducing us as his parents!! Ben, Bek & Jake--meet your new brother!!

Bogglehead: At all times, one must look around for speedy motorcycles & small white cars, must look up for unique architecture and down to avoid manure piles!! It makes you feel like a bobble head.

Laws of physics: How does a motorcycle driver keep balance when his wife who is holding a baby rides side saddle on the back while a sleeping child sits on his handle bars??? And why doesn't that sleeping child fall off??? Mind you, they are going 40 -50 mph!

And often I wonder... how can I help this begging child, this woman with no teeth with her hands outstretched, the man with no legs. I am hoping to find this answer at Mother Teresa's. I know if I give to one--I will be mobbed within seconds. I have handed out many books but only as we drive away from the area and still, the children run after us.

And I think... that perhaps the reason the woman wear such ornate jewelry, decorate their faces with vivid colors and wear sari's that defy the colors I've seen anywhere...trucks are painted with fancy designs...and temples are filled with beautiful flowers...give these people a sense of beauty within as they walk the streets filled with trash, manure, sewage and poor. They can look beyond it all and smile.

Time for lunch.
Take care and be thankful.
Jane

Gems From India

Gems from India

• Words of a local: In India we have a big problem--that is there is no problem.


• Indian room service: open door and shout "Hello"--someone will come running


• Views from the car window: Indian man dressed in "Ghandi" pants and a T-shirt with a big yellow smiling face


• Indian woman wearing a beautiful pink sari working with a chisel breaking cement at a construction site


• Thoughts on living in such crowded conditions from a local: I would be lonely without so many others close.


• Did you know the Japanese are building the toll roads here and collecting the $$?


• There is a Global Management University in India??


• Girls who complete about 9 years of school get $$ from government because they will be more desirable wives?

Finally, treat of the day: Talk about service, you don't even have to get your own towels wet!! They come wet already!!
Enjoy USA,
Jane and Roger

*** Our first set of photos have been uploaded onto our photo website:

http://rogerandjane.shutterfly.com/ (look in the India #1 Album)

Greetings from Pushkar, India--home of many camels!!

We pulled up to our hotel and parked next to two camels who seemed to like the company. Can't wait till tomorrow when we hop on one of them. As we waited for our room, we sat in a garden and watched several peacocks roost for the night in nearby trees. We are in India. Today we toured the palace where the present Hindi Maharaja of Rajathstan state lives and the palaces & grave sites of several past kings. Marble carvings, golden paintings, mirrored walls, chandeliers, pillars, domes, Persian carpets and ornately painted gates everywhere. One built a palace for his wife that had 365 doors so she could always watch from her hidden window whatever was going on and from a spot with a breeze. Another built his wife a glass palace with thousands & thousands of tiny mirrors. Another built an observatory in the 1600's that included a sundial that showed time accurate within two seconds. It was about as big as our house. He also built a constellation finder, astrolabe, zodiac locator, etc., etc. just proved this Maharaja had a thing about knowing what time it was!! They sure didn't skimp on themselves. Of course, we sure don't feel like we are skimping on ourselves as we take in site after site of a most intriguing culture and tour their amazingly old and well preserved buildings. We've been enjoying talking to our guides at each site who are very willing to tell about their life and other Indians. Did you realize that about 80% of marriages are still arranged and the divorce rate is less than 3%?? I asked if they were happy with their spouses and he smiled and said, oh yes. He hoped he could be married as long as we've been. More later as we must rest up for more tomorrow.

Enjoy!

Jane and Roger

We've arrived in India!

Day 1 that lasted until Day 3

India--we came looking for adventure...and quickly found it. We missed our New York connection due to fog in D.C.. Air India officials were at a loss what to do with us and ten others. One Indian man (a D.C./Delhi business man), San Jeev stepped forward and clearly took control for the whole group telling us that if we stuck together, we'd have better chance with Air India. He negotiated an acceptable scenerio to get us to Delhi ASAP. He did it in a quiet and polite yet demanding manner. We were given new tickets to Mumbai and then Delhi along with meal and hotel vouchers. From then on, we were close to San Jeev's heels as we moved a a pack from ticket counters, through security checks, in taxis for the next 24 hours. We became the "Dirty Dozen." At one security point, Rog & 2 other got separated. San Jeev spoke to authorities and offered to search for them. Another young man in our group doubled back and proudly returned with all three...relief. Our unplanned night in Mumbai gave us a glimpse of that busy of that busy business center and almost 4 hours sleep in a bed.

We are about to land in Delhi. We feel lost in a time bubble. It's Wed, 11:30 AM here --so that's Tues 1:30 AM USA time. Since we left Detroit at 6 AM on Monday--we just know we've been in planes and airports for a looong time.

Day 4 and 5
Taj Mahal - open sewers
Marble - dirt
flashy tour buses - ox carts
gold carvings - tinsel
domes - dung
gorgeous sari's - bare butts
Mercedes - ricksaws
friendly smiles - honking horns
Hindu - Muslum
rich - poor

The contrast is what smacks me in the face. We have spent the last few days with our driver, Noor who placed a ring of flowers around our necks when he met us at the airport and we were off! We've already been to Gandi's grave & museum, Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Sikandra (fort), Fateh Pur Sikri (palace) and a few more palaces and forts. At each, Noor has arranged a guide who is loaded with info and takes our picture!! We've traveled about 500 kilometers on muddy alleys and new toll road, through huge cities & tiny villages, past fields of crops & bricks and past ricksaws, motorcyles (with 4 people on them), trucks totally decorated with USE HORN PLEASE painted on their tailgate, three wheeled taxis with 20+ people, bicycles galore, ox/camel/donkey/horse carts, tour & local buses and small cars. All these shared the road with cows, pigs, sheep, goats and people walking. It only worked because of the cooperation and respect everyone seemed to have for each other...and their horns which they used as a courtesy to warn others as they approached. It seemed like an amazing maze where people had a sixth sense of what others were going to do. All the while, we soak in the sights like a cow walking out of marble doorway, palace built in a lake, sari's blowing in the air as they travel on motorcycles or in backs of trucks, technical university next to dung pile farm, monkeys playing in ancient palace, women in vivid sari's washing clothes in the river and hanging them in dead trees to dry. children in smart uniforms going to school by crowded ricksaws, and so much more.

When we had to cross a road while walking, we would have never moved if Noor or our guide had not led the way stopping traffic. They told us--if you worry, you can't walk. Just walk.



We're in Jaipur-the city they painted pink for the Queen's visit--so we'll see more palaces and forts tomorrow. The history here is amazingly ancient and ornate!

Hope all is well with you!
Roger and Jane


For more videos and photos of New Delhi, go to our photo/video page :
http://www.rogerandjane.shutterfly.com/