Jane's Final Thoughts

I am glad to be writing my final thoughts--anyone who has tried to keep up with my writing must be thrilled!  
It's hard to believe during this trip we've stayed on the same planet...and in relatively short distances between stops!  Our first weeks in NZ--spectacular beauty, natural & high adventure attractions galore, alive with excitement and pride.  The Milford Sound alone is worth the flight.  The next month in Australia--such diversity in geography , animals & people (Aborigines, Sydney multicultural new-age crowd to the laid back mountain people).  Clean & busy.  Koala & Roos are the cutest, Opera House more beautiful than any photo and the magnificent GBR overwhelms you with awe.  Then the final three weeks in PNG--like stepping back in time.  Painful to see such poverty living in such a mess and struggling to find a way to improve...yet a joy to hear the laughter and see (and be part of) the love they have for their clan.  Really a baby--only 40 yrs since an independence was given them...without them asking...and before they were ready to thrive.  The mountains, waterfalls & huge shady trees...pockets of beauty.  We longed to see more of PNG--the villages & islands--but it was not safe to venture out.  Jr & Mindex were our guides, cultural interpreters and body guards...without them, we'd have experienced little of PNG...and probably been robbed...though not put in pots as that has been taboo for almost 40 yrs.  We are so appreciative of them!!  Our volunteer work was at times so rewarding and other times so frustrating.   In many ways it was the same scenario that takes place in all the 3rd world countries we've visited.  We formed a special bond with the Tembari teachers & left them with many supplies & books.  We taught many lessons & read many books to the kids & teachers.  All can sing new songs & play new games.  It certainly was our most challenging teaching experience!
Three countries...three worlds...and so far from home.  I feel so amazingly lucky to have so many experiences in so many countries...and to have shared it with Roger.  Every time I come back home, I appreciate & enjoy my family, friends, home & country even more!

Update #68: Books Read

WHad some great reads this trip---

R & J:  Down Under by Byson - hilarious & educational travel guide in story form.  Must read for anyone going to or has been to Australia!

J:  The Song Master by Di Morrissey - Though fiction, it was full of info about the Aboriginal culture.
Take away lines:  "white men...were empty people who'd had to search for meaning in their lives, for they had no identity in the land.  He knew that when one is part of the proper world that is the earth, then on is happy."
"She had the curiosity of a child, the eagerness of a young dog and an intellect that accepted answers that were alien to her thinking."

R & J:  If I Were God, I'd Make Myself Clearer by Dickson - thought provoking

R:  Short History of Nearly Everything by Byson - scientific history of world from atoms to dinosaurs to space written with Byson's unique sense of humor.  

Update #67: Visit with Parliament Worker

I Today we stood in front of the Parliament House and discussed PNG past, present & future with a man who set up meetings for the parliament...which happens to be Jr's nephew.  After introducing ourselves & being welcomed, I asked the first question:  What do you see happening in PNG that is improving the country the most?  Shook his head & said, really nothing.  Everything is so overwhelming and they don't have the expertise or experience to be real successful at anything:  education, transportation, employment, utilizing the resources, even an accurate count of the population...probably 8 - 10 million.   He said Australia gave us our independence before we asked or was ready.  After a bit, he did say they'd made a deal to sell water to Australia & in return they might be able to create power from the it before it was piped under the sea.  Rog asked if they were considering developing more tourist areas...creating many new jobs..which led to a discussion on security & safety and building hotels affordable for tourist...hotels now are $300+ as they are for businessmen.   He talked about their poor economy...kina's depressed currency...and low wages.  He ended saying "just look at where I go to sleep each night."  (We'd been to his home...no elec or water & built with bits. & pieces...like so many...we understood his meaning.)

Update #66: Minister Mtg

We went to the same church we attended last week...and since there are so few places to visit...we opted to stay for two services...both weeks.  Kinda making up for weeks we didn't go!  Like DUMC, first service is more traditional & second with a praise band.   I was hoping to go to a different church for an additional experience...but Jr thought it best we go to the same...and guess God did too...here's why.  After church as we waited for our ride, the senior pastor, Rev. Samson Lowa came over to welcome us & chat.  He said he' seen us last week and hoped to meet us.  He'd been to USA several times as he was on the United Church board...which includes Methodist.  When he asked why we were here, we told him about Tembari.  He'd been there.  We spoke of how hard the teachers worked, crowded conditions & no supplies.  He was shaking his head and agreeing.  I said we left with many questions.  He said he questioned much when he was there.  So I gave him a summary of our experience.  He was not surprised and said he needs to look into the matter.  So...maybe...maybe...with his influence (and our prayers)...some positive changes can still happen at Tembari.  

Update #65: short notes

So much happens that I want to record--though it seems I am writing all the time--but just don't want to forget:

-Our ride:  Mindex drives 10-15 year old small car with door handles broken so they use zip ties to open them...it bottoms out often due to ruts or humps.  But those passengers in the few big fancy 4 wheel cars with tinted windows up are missing out on much of PNG...they have no real contact with the land!

-Many taxi cars we see have smashed windows on the drivers' side...Mindex says it from angry drunks.

-Tried to visit the National Museum of Art & Culture...according to the gate guard, it's closed indefinitely till bills are paid.

-National Library is closed Sat & Sun at noon.

-Most businesses close at 4:06 pm.  

-Babies usually only nurse 3-4 months and then mom feeds them pre hewed food.

-Pumpkin leaves are harvested and sold for food...boy did we blow it when we were growing pumpkins!  

-Can't even begin to tell you how many people in all three countries ask us about Trump. The papers have been full of articles about our elections. From what we see & hear, he'd get no votes in NZ, Aust or PNG.  One Australian told me, "If Trump wins, I thinks it will destabilize the world."  

-Not seeing a mirror in three weeks is kind of liberating!

-My mission diet is working again...lost the "pouch" I appropriately gained in Australia!

-My favorite sound today was curls of laughter coming from the house behind us...it may be primitive but full of joy...at times anyways!

Update #64: Future of PNG by Rog

No matter what the future brings for PNG I am sure that the people here will continue to face the challenges of their lives just as they are today- with smiling faces, a laugh( Aiiiiiiii!), and a willingness to help each other that is embedded in their lives as part of their culture.
Our experiences here have kept us on a roller coaster, but we  can look forward to returning to our "normal" world.  For those here,normal is totally different.  Hayward suggested that it might take thousands of years for PNG to catch up to the rest of the world.  When he said that I thought it was far too long and there should be hope that conditions will improve much sooner than that....just look at how far the USA has come in just over 200 years!  Now I am thinking... Maybe he was right.   The USA developed from Western Civilization, but PNG is rising from primitive culture.
Roads are being built all around Port Moresby.  The new LNG (liquid natural gas) plant is big and exciting but essentially sealed off from the local population.  Construction here is continuous and prices are high. Papuans see opportunity for wealth and jobs.  But PNG has great obstacles to overcome-- Workers  from Maylasia are brought here to build the roads because they have the skills and tools to get the job done, while locals remain unemployed and struggle to survivie.  Maylasians also are building houses that are unaffordable for the Papauans ( $300,000 US).  Foreign investors are making big profits as resources here are exploited (much to the dismay of many Papuans).
Many people from the provinces have come here to the Capital for opportunity but find too little. Most are unemployed, but many sell snacks or garden produce from makeshift stands to earn a few Kina.  Cooks at Tembari got paid about $3.50/ day and teachers about $7/ day.  Not great paying jobs but all done with love for the children.
As we have seen in many other developing countries, many Papuans appear content to live with basic necessities. By that I mean that as long as basic needs are met there is little reason to do more. They also correctly blame government corruption for the poor condition of all infrastructure in the country (esp. roads, bridges, power supply, water supply).  Once again, leaders lining their pockets at the expense of the poor.  Will this ever change?
850 languages have made communication extremely difficult.  Each tribe has their own culture and the people all are very proud of their tribal customs.  All seem intent on passing their own tribal traditions on to the next generation as that is a huge part of their  identitiy.  These traditions and culture are the fabric of the country...it is who they are and they let you know right away to which clan they belong.  The clan is so close that they call each other brother or sister even though the actual relationship may be cousin or more distant.  The fact that the men may have more than one wife leads to many half brothers/sisters which increases the size of the clan also.  They are right to highly value their culture.  But their culture may get in the way when trying to become a modern society...We have heard some tell about their home village where water, food and housing is free and you just live free.  No bus fare, no job, no gasoline to buy.  Sounds great -so why do they come to the city?  Probably because there is also no electricity, no TV, no refrigerator, no cell phone, no excitement, no opportunity for a better life.  They come here for opportunity and they look forward to having the benefits of the modern world.  At the same time they also continue their cultural ways-which may prevent them from achieving individual success.   For example they help each other in many ways...sharing homes with many members of their clan, helping to pay bride prices, helping to pay funeral prices, financially assisting in times of need, caring for children and elderly, etc.  When we thanked Junior for being our host in PNG he replied, "I had no choice.  My brother asked me to do it."  No question... he will do whatever he can for members of his clan.  
Sharing their time and their wealth is of utmost importance and this leads to the following thought...

In Oro province, PNG, there is a cultural taboo against one person having more than the rest-as I was told, "if one person has more, he will die.  We don't want any one person to be better than the rest of us."
As societies move from primitive to modern we gain some things (wealth, independence,comfort) but we may also lose some things, too (shared lives, support in times of need, work/skill connections that bind us securely to one another).  It appears that even when you succeed and think you have it all, you don't really have it all.
L

Update #63: Gifts

I Since our first day at Tembari, we've been showered with gifts...from the teachers, cooks, students and also from the people living around and in the house where we are staying.  We now have 9 string bags (everyone here carries this bag called a bilum), 3 Oro tribe fabric bags, 1 string shopping by, 6 shell necklaces...one with wild pig tusks, a shell wedding bracelet, an Oro hat made of bark & palms, a beanie hat, a meri blouse, a hand decorated Oro shirt and 2 grass skirts made of saso frong (coconut like staple food of the Kairuku tribe).  It's humbling & so overwhelming to get gifts from those who have so little.  After each gift was received, we got tight hugs and heard the same words, "Remember me.  Remember PNG."

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Update #62: PNG Jokes (related by Rog)

After enjoying a farewell lunch with the teachers and Penny and Hayward,  Penny announced that they must now take time to smoke and chew beetle nut as this is their custom following a meal.  So some wandered off to do just that while others stayed and started to tell us some of their jokes and stories...many of them seemed to poke fun at anyone a lack of understanding of the English language, proper use of English, or the backward nature of someone recently moved to the city from a primitive village.  

...A newly arrived American was being driven around Port Moresby in a taxi and after a short while he asked the taxi driver, "Is this area hostile?".   "Yes", came the reply.  "Hoss style, pig style, chicken style,                  and dog style!"

An Australian stopped by a market to look at some crafts and noticed some wood carvings of a native that looked very much like the man who was selling the carvings.  He looked at the carving, then at the seller, then at the carving again, then again at the seller...trying to decide if the man had used himself as the model for his work as there was a great resemblance.  The seller wanted to ask the man if he would like to buy his carving, but he said "You look like my carving?"  

Riding around with a local driver on a typically hot day, the Australian stopped to get cold drinks for them...After a refreshing swig, the Australian said, "Fantastic!"  (Wanting to show off his use of English) the driver took a swig and declared, "Coketastic!"

Riding on a bus a man noticed that very confused-looking man beside him was chewing paw paw seeds.  He asked the man what the seeds do and he was told, "They make you think much better!"  He thought that he should give it a try so he asked "How much to try it?".  "Just one Kina for 20 seeds." He purchased some seeds and seemed to enjoy his ride for some time.  Then the bus stopped at a market and he got off to buy a snack.  At the market he saw paw paws...five for one Kina and each had about one hundred seeds!
When he got back on the bus he complained, "I paid too much for the seeds!"  
"I see you are thinking much better already!"

A preacher was explaining to the congregation that God is always with you.  He said, "Wherever you go, he go!  Whatever you do, he do.  Whenever you stay, he stay.  Wherever you are, he are!"  

A man took his son to swimming lessons and following the lesson many swimmers were returning to their parents but the man could not find his son.  The boy was wearing a pair of swimmer's goggles and was unrecognizable to his father.

A couple went to see the judge to complete their divorce and the judge said, we will ask each of the five children with whom they will go.  So he asked the first, "Will you go with the father or the mother?"  The child replied, "Mother".  So he asked the next child and again, "Mother".
When he got to the last child all previous answers had been "Mother" so the father said to the judge, "Will you please change the wording so that you ask this child, 'Will you go with the mother or the father?'"
The judge agreed to do this.  But in the end the final child also answered "Mother".  
Then the man said, "I ,too, want to go with the Mother!"

A woman was riding on the bus when the the fare collector called to her from the front of the bus saying, "Hey, you.  Bus fare!"  She turned around to see if there was someone behind her but didn't respond to him.  So again, he looked at her and said "You.  Bus Fare!"  Again she turned around to see who he was speaking to.  Once more he called to her, "Bus fare!"
Then she said, "The person you are talking to is out of your network area".

A priest was preparing to serve Holy Communion to a group of young people who were receiving their first Communion.  As he turned with the platter of host in his hand a loose button fell from his shirt onto the platter.  Communion proceeded as usual and following the service one boy asked his friend what he thought of the experience.  He replied, "I thought that I would get the body of Christ, but I got the bone of Christ!"

Update #61

Picking up from my update on Tembari Troubles...first no teacher has had to leave...computer which was being help as a form of protest by teachers was returned without the charger...and finally charger was located in the original box.  Miracles do happen...just takes a couple weeks.  Next day, I spent from 10 - 3 teaching word processing to some pretty excited teaches.  Only 2 of the 9 had ever even typed.  Joe, the youngest, obviously had experience...he too was thrilled & teased others saying lessons would only cost $2.  For the 3rd time, we asked Hayward if the locked area to store the computer & printer where teachers could access it was ready...I'll ask Penny...same answer.  Next day, after I'd covered for the K teacher & Rog taught another science lesson, we started working with teachers whose students leave at 10, on the computer.  Then an assembly was called for all students so they could elect a student leader...something they told the kids about last week & kids were selected as candidates.  I continued teaching word processing & Rog went to the assembly.  Teachers used the clapping technique we'd taught them to quiet the group, had the list of candidates on a large paper & a box for votes...that's when Hayward interrupted the assembly...told the kids the teachers had misbehaved & sent kids home.  Guess he had not approved the assembly...though he is seldom around.  Rog said watching the shock & humiliation on the teachers' faces was painful.  I joined him and we went to get the printer from Hayward's office as we'd lost confidence in him & Penny.  The security guard...who has been with Tembari for many years...said he'd store both at his house & allow teachers to use there.  When Hayward heard--he exploded.  Accused us of trying to take over, alternative motives for coming, white people not understanding PNG, trying to rush, rush, rush him...etc.  It was rude & ugly.  Rog actually got mad & told him we had only come to help & walked away.  Hayward continue to shout at me as I sat silent.  Finally I said we'd seen many donations end up not in the hands they were meant to be & we wanted the comp & printer in the teachers' hands.  He left saying we'd discuss in a meeting the next morning after the kids left at 10.  The teachers kept apologizing to us....like teaching in such horrid conditions isn't bad enough they have to put u with a control nut!!  We showed up at 8:30 the next morning...big sign on classroom doors...NO SCHOOL FOR 2 WEEKS.  We sat with the teachers...still apologizing.  They said the fight had happened before we got there...Gordon (5 yr teacher, cousin of Penny) had walked away after Penny threaten to call police.  Rog went to find & talk to him.  He was so ashamed,  anger, frustrated...of how we & the other teachers were treated.  He said he was going to quit & return to his village.  I sat with the other teachers & passed out our teaching supplies that we'd been using...books, playing cards, tablets ...since we won't need them Mon, which was to be our last day...& gave the cooks a bag of M & M's. Finally around 11, H & P served us a delicious picnic lunch of potato salad, coleslaw, sausage, rolls, fruit, chocolate bars & Coke.  All sat around telling jokes & enjoying the meal.  H & P gave us three ORO fabric bags & a photo of the kids.  No meeting was held.  Mindex & Jr arrived and we had a tearful goodbye with the female teachers & cooks, hugged the males & shook hands with H & P--who said, "Thank you for coming.  Understand in PNG no one likes to see another have more money...if they do, they will kill them."  Heavy words!  So we're bringing the computer home (can't take it back) and giving the printer to Jr.    So ends the saga of the computer & printer.

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Update #60

I At around 4pm weekdays, the cooks gather around 150-200 kids in a that have been milling around the area.  They sing:  We Are Family, Jesus Loves the Little Children & a few other in Pidgin. Then they recite the Our Father & the cooks start passing out bowls from a huge pot cooked over a wood fire.  Rice or noodles with a touch of meat & vege.  We're told the kids are orphans, homeless or just dirt poor.  This feeding program started about 15 years ago...the school a few years later.  Tembari means Traveler/Temporary...so many that live around here & PM are just that.  Though we haven't seen it or felt it--somewhere or sometime in Hayward & Penny's heart there must be a caring & kind spot.  We know there are many who sponsor Tembari...one reason we decided to come...and don't have any idea how much the donation amount to.  Many have told us they get far more than they spend on food & the school.  The need is obvious.  Kids are hungry.  So we decided to purchase some food.  Hayward gave us a hefty list...we chose to purchase the canned meat.  Jr went & got the best deal he could & delivered it to Tembari.  (No thanks given to him or us from Hayward...that's another story).  It was the right thing to do for the kids & sure made the cooks' day!

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Update #59

We feel like many PNG see us as the Great White Hope.  Tonight it was Bob--landlord's son. He came to talk to us about investing in his coffee crop.  Basically, help him buy license to sell & export green coffee beans to us in USA.  He spoke with such enthusiasm...it was difficult to tell him we and no one we knew was in a position to help him.  Though you could feel his Hope evaporate ...he was thankful that we'd listened.  Bob was the 3rd or 4th who'd come to us with their dream.  Then Bob spoke with anger about the Malaysians & Australians who have come to PNG & are making "millions"--right under their noises...while they beg for jobs.  Jr recently expressed the same anger.  Both said Australians won't even let a PNG enter their offices.  We were relieved to hear both say they love Americans & feel well treated by them. What a shame that those who might be able to invest will probably never meet these PNG hopefuls.

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Update #58

We never know what our day at Tembari school will bring.  No two have been the same.  Many teachers have been sick...so we're subs somedays coming up with lessons on the spot.  With Kindergarten, I've never seen such chaos...even getting their attention for 2 min is tough!  They probably don't understand English & think nothing of wrestling, poking each other, leaving to get an icy pop, throwing paper wads, etc...all in a group of 60+ in a 6 x 10 hotter than xxxx shipping crate.  I usually end up taking them outside...then it's dirt they throw & other wandering students come to harasses...you get the picture...add runny noses with no tissue.   Fortunately the upper grades each get a bit better and teaching in the 4 & 5 really happens...sparks fly a few times!  By this grade, many of the kids are 13 or more.  Our lesson plans have included:  reading alouds, skip counting, poems & teaching songs like:
Down by the Bay (rhyming words) and There Was A Tree (science).  We never know when the day will end...too hot, no water, rain coming, upset owner....each day is unique but always filled with so many hugs & smiles.

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Update #57

Tonight we found ourselves (at our landlord, Joel's encouragement) in the middle of a field sitting under a tarp in the pouring rain with a crowd of locals.  A massive amount of cooked pig and other cooked greens were laid out on banana leaves & then covered with banana leaves.  We were at a House Cry.  Behind us sat the window--her husband had been the chief of the clan.  I sat next to a man (and also under a hole in the tarp) who was pleased to translate for me & thanked me for experiencing some of his culture.  One at a time, men got up to thank people for the food and donations.  Joel was especially thanked as "he is not one of our tribe an but walked many miles with our chief.  Tell your clan about Joel's gifts so all know."  (The gathering was on Joel's land & he'd provided lots of the food.). At one point, a late arriving group of relatives came walking up the muddy drive...a distant wailing increased in volume as they came closer.  Then the widow and a few others began to wail.  A high pitch, mournful sound that pierced your heart.  The wailing turned into a song sang with such grief:  "Who will I walk with?  Who will I talk to?  Who will hunt? My Chief.  My Chief."  When the wailing softened, a man told us how much $$ was collected (about $2800) & exactly how it was going to be spent:  $$ for transporting body to home village, $$ for widow's plant tkt, etc..  Next the food was to be divided among the clans--with the deceased's mother's family clan first.  I gave the widow a long hug.  Many thanked us for coming...and we told them we were honored to be there.   We quietly slipped...actually almost literally slipped in the wet, red mud...away with Ruby & a man who offered to drive us home.   Got home @ 10...soaked, muddy, but with memories of a unique cultural event:  a House Cry.  This is the way they share their grief.   Had it been their child who died, they would have cut off a finger...or even a hand.  And had the House Cry taken place in their home village,  many men would be covered with dirt to signify from dust to dust...and would run around with swords & axes charging at others...and this would last for days...each louder & more intense.  PNG is but a blink away from the days when only tribal ways ruled.  Just 35 years ago, the kina shell was the currency.  We see glimpses of it often and feel its overwhelming presence everywhere.  

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Update #55

Bikus Yu
Bikpela Jisas
Olsum Yu
Bikpela Tumas
Lookim

Translation:
Because of You
Big Fellow Jesus
Awesome You
Big Fellow Too Much (expression for God)
Look at Him

It always gives me goosebumps to sing & praise God with a church full of locals...mostly woman.  We sang the above song in Pidgin English and then in English we sang a song we sing at DUMC--Here I Am to Worship.  A butterfly flew by while we were singing--always a sign to me that my Mom is close.  Big goosebumps!    Though we were the only whites, we felt so connected.  The sermon was on God's awesome love for us--pretty easy for me to believe as He has blessed me so much...but I wondered how those around me felt.  A quote in the bulletin popped out at me:
Praise God for "challenges" in life...it is during these times that we truly experience His power and presence in our lives and protection over us His children.  Thank you Father for this gift of life in all its fullness."  Kiri
I know this to be true and have seen how strong faith is in so many dire situations we have seen in our travels.  My prayer today was that these people surrounding me would truly feel His amazing love.  The minister ended his message reminding us that we much show we're Christians by our actions, words & how we live our lives...a true challenge to those who have so little...and thus of us that have so much.
The praise band was excellent & sincere.  The church itself was a large metal shed, cement floor, mic, big screen & lots of fans...thank goodness.  Bulletin reported last week's collection was almost $6000.  Wow!  At one point it started to pour...the rain on the metal roof made it impossible to hear the minister even with his mic...but the sermon went on.  At the end, 8 young people came to the front as they were going to be baptized.  They were asked to answer 3 questions--but just like in our classes--not one answered...so the minister said, "I do."  Then into the pouring rain they went to the baptismal pool where they were dunked.  Kinda a double baptism.  
As we sat waiting for our ride, a man came up to talk to us about the church's vision of cell groups...based on The Purpose Driven Life...same book our church studied.  It really is a small world which is trying in any ways to be more united.  The man shook his head looking amazed as he was leaving & said, "Imagine, I was just talking to people from half way around the world!"

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Update #54

Saturday plans changed...no surprise...Kay's daughter sick.  So when Rog noticed the women doing the wash...out I went.  The scene:  right behind the bathroom, a mountain of clothes, a young girl (Anna, daughter-in-law of Grace) scrubbing vigorously with bar soap & brush in a tub of water, hose with running water in a basket of washed clothes:  Grace sitting crossed legged on a raised platform (probably septic tank) covered with old can, dried paintbrushes & a variety of other junk:  looking in a broken triangular shaped mirror propped up with point down on an old paint can where her cell phone sat and cutting her hair with scissors;  Grace's sister rocking her naked sleeping child.  How could I not jump right into that scene???  Refusing to listen to their protest, I picked up a brush & started scrubbing.  Anna looked at me and asked, "In America, you have washing machine."  "Yes, but in PNG I have pail & brush."  Everyone belly laughed.  We had a great time learning more about each other.  I heard all about Anna's future wedding party...here the groom's family pays for the bride to her family.  (Later heard one guy paid almost $7000 plus pigs, flour etc).  Anna also talked about college classes she is taking. Then Grace grabbed the hose, pulled down the top of her muu muu & lathered herself up. She shouted, "Miss Jane, snap (take picture) me!!" And stuck out her tongue & popped out her eyes.  Sure wish I'd had my camera!!  She is such a nut.  After she rinsed off, she opened a bottle of dark dye & applied it with a plastic bag around her hand.  Anna evidently was doing was for her extended family. She worked diligently and with much energy.  After about an hour, I was tired & hungry.  As I was saying goodbye, Grace spoke in her broken English words I will treasure:   "Miss Jane.  I have memory of you...white girl washing clothes.  You smile.  You laugh.  You share.  You Christian.  Other whites no smile.  Look away."  

Update #50

Here's a bunch of random notes I've jotted down:

-Grace rides to/from school with her daughter, Joyce on the bus as kids are kidnapped for $$.

-Indians & Asians are coming to PNG to be chefs so lots of Indian & Chinese food on menus.

-Malaysians are the biggest land buys & are building lots of factories here.  They hire PNG to do the low pay, short term grunt jobs only.

-Rog & I have more food stored in the landlords frig than they do...and they feed about 8 - 10 people every day!

-The cleaning lady's son recently died so Grace prepared a huge pot of food for them.   Since they are also from Mt. Hagen area...the food was their traditional food.  Grace brought us a huge bowl of it also...which we devoured...beat pbj sandwiches!!  First she built a wood fire, filled a pot with water.  When it started to boil, she added ferns, then topped it with chicken, sweet potatoes, bananas & finally, grated coconut.  When you eat the fern, you strip the vine with your fingers which leaves you with a small bunch of greens.  The bananas tasted very much like potatoes.  We are lucky to be with such generous & friendly people!

-Jr's  matter-of-factly advise to us before we entered a market:  Do not go count your money or someone will surely poke you with a knife.  We heeded his advise.

-Ants do not respect teachers while they are teaching and will bite their toes causing much pain & blisters.  I know from first hand experience.

Update #53

It's been 10 days of living in a 8 x 10 room with a small fan & thin mat.  We store bottled water & Coke Zero under our table & on top we stack food, books, TP, used ziplock bags, 2 cut off water bottles (our cups), 2 styrofoam trays (our plates), sunscreen, bug spray & few other odds & ends.  Towels & slightly dirty clothes hang from chairs & curtain rods.  Suitcases lay open and over flowing in the corners of the room.  The fan moves to where we sit.  Showers are cold...which is actually a good thing...but like so many other things...we never know when the water will be on.  Dogs fight, frogs croak, neighbors burn garbage & vehicles filled with noisy passengers outside our window.  Salamanders, various insects, lines of ants are frequent roommates...cockroaches just occasionally.  We live better than most PNG that we see here around PM.  Many new developments are usually for the Malaysians.  Yesterday we stopped at a hotel to use wifi.  It was plush & filled with foreigners paying $300 a night...we're paying $30.  Am I jealous...only a little.  They have the amenities.  We have the PNG people.

Update #52

Another day...another peanut or pbj sandwich.  But today we had added excitement.  After dismissing the 5th grade class I'd been teaching, I picked up my bag which I'd left at the back of the room...it was lighter than usual.  My camera was gone.  I told Gordon, a teacher & he hugged me saying sorry, sorry, sorry.  Within in minutes, several other teachers, the cooks & a few lingering parents & students were having a pow wow--I heard the word for police.  Kids were given a couple kina ($$) and send out in several directions.  It was a tense time and everyone kept apologizing and were agonizingly distressed.  I felt terrible for not keeping my bag closer to me.  In less than 15 minutes, the mood quickly changed to joy when the camera was returned...which I captured on my camera!

 

Note:  We are sure the girl who took it will be dealt with by the teachers & other students...she had even taken a few pictures of her friend.  Hope she learns a valuable & lasting lesson!!

Update #51

The clan & tribe culture and customs is still very much a part of PNG today.  There are over 130 tribes which are broken down into clans.  Clan rules are deeply rooted like who can marry who & how many wives they can have.  Also sons always inherit father's land...which over the years has meant each plot inherited is getting smaller.  The riches man is the clan leader.  Each clan has it's own language--over 800 in PNG not counting the many dialects!  Most speak several languages: local, mother's tongue, neighboring communities.  Pidgin English (Tok Pisin) is the common language.  English for business.  Though I'd love to see their cultural outfits, dress here is very common with men in short or pants & shirts.  Woman usually wear a brightly colored tunic top over a skirt.  Our newest neighbor, Gibson, a young man who is a rep to the UN for PNG clans, told us elected Gov't officials are duty bound to their tribe/clan so it gets in the way of being effective.  He also said many people leave their village & come to PM for the chance to make money so they can buy things like TV & cell phones.  But in PM, they can't usually find jobs & life is difficult...they log for their clan & its simple life.  They end up living close to their tribesmen where they find undeniable closeness. 
 

 As I mentioned before, the first thing people tell you when they meet you is what region they are from.   Most of our students are from the Oro region.  Most of our free time is spent with people from Mt. Hagen...and we have heard so much about what they call "Paradise"...almost wish we could go there.    When they speak of Mt. Hagen they smile widely saying there people lavishly show much love to each other.  There is much hand shaking and hand clapping.  When they see each other on the street, they shout with vigor, "Hey Man, Where you Go?"...and then belly laugh.  Jr tells about their favorite activity of storytelling where everyone laughs loudly at the same time in the same tone and then somehow stop in sync...and the story continues.  They grow many types of vegetable & fruits, water is plentiful and homes are made out of local materials without cost.   It is also the area where a huge festival featuring 75 tribes is held each year.  Sure wish we could be there then!!!  It's in the mountains, no road access but 45 min flight which cost about $125.  Grace keeps saying to me, "I take you to Mt. Hagen.  We go!"  Tempting!!

Update 48: Introducing books

Subject: Update #48 Teaching Again

I only opened a book and they came...over 100 big & little ones sat in the dirt mesmerized by the words and pictures.  I simply love reading aloud to kids--and reading aloud to kids who don't have books or anyone to read to them--it's an absolute thrill!!  This time alone makes it all worth it!! 

 Rog and I have been pulling small groups of kids from the lower classes.  Some are just learning to write the letter A...others trying to learn to ID letters and a few ready for letter sounds.  Today we even worked a tiny bit on blending sounds in word families.  In the afternoon, we've been working with the 4th & 5th graders.  Rog is doing math & science.  I am reading aloud a story asking comp & inference question...discussing main idea, setting, characters & trying to make personal connections...a few catch on which I know when their eyes sparkle! 

 Trying to get any kid..young or old...to answer individually is like pulling teeth...like so many other students we have worked with in our travels.  But we coax with a smile and slowly some begin to speak.  

At recess & lunch, we play games, read aloud and sing songs.  Another countries kids have learned to play Doggie, Doggie;  Blue Bird, Blue Bird, London Bridges & Follow the Leader!  The only games we have seen them play is pick up sticks with pencils, drop kicking a ball and a jumping game called Jingle Jangle.  

According to the posted schedule, the youngest kids leave at 10, next group at noonand oldest at 2...though in the week & a half we've been here...it hasn't happened yet. Kids sent home cause boss calls teacher meeting or just cancels, rain is coming so need to leave in case streams flood, no water...or it's too hot.  During times when they are in session, kids randomly get up and leave to purchase something from nearby vendor or just go for a walk.  Since there are sooooo many in a class, don't think the teachers even notice. 

 K class is about 60, Prep class( between K & 1) has 76 & 1st grade 88...all sitting in a hot, shipping container!!!  Between the inconsistent and the conditions, it's a wonder they learn anything!!

Update #43- #48

My parents sent me these updates and asked me to send them out to you all.

43:

Subject: Update #43 Tembari-Trouble

Arrived at Tembari with lesson plans and materials to start teaching small groups of 15 first graders.  Playing follow the leader, we lead our group out under the shade of a tree.  We worked on letter ID & sounds & counting with finger ID.  Kids were very hesitant about answering or doing anything individually but the many parents sitting around kept encouraging them.  We were working with the second small group when we got word--school was closing early & there would be no school tomorrow (Fri).  Big boss was here and called a meeting.  So just like that, kids left...many walking home for over an hour having only been in school an hour.  Teachers and us sat around another hour guessing what was going to happen at the meeting.  Evidently this wasn't the first time.  Penny...who stated several times she was the founder & director...addressed the staff sternly and emphatically saying she is to make all decisions.  She said this was not the first warning for several of the staff and she would be terminating three of them.  She welcomed us and apologized to us for having to hear about these issues.  Several teachers tried to explained why they had called a previous parent meeting without her knowledge and why they had spent the $ we offered already.  She kept repeating...But I am the founder & director and I alone have the vision.  Hayward...her husband...said he knew we were coming...though we had no contact or knowledge of him or Penny.  Near the end of the meeting, Roger and I both spoke up saying we'd prayed to God to make sure our church funds were spent well and we felt arriving just as the teachers were in distress about what they'd do next...seemed to us the answer to our prayers.  As teachers, we totally understood their needs and could see it in every classroom.  We were glad to see the money put to good use immediately.  We complimented the teachers for doing so well in such challenging conditions.  Penny just said thank you for your input. After the meeting--while we waited for our ride--the teachers insisted on waiting with us.  They said they would continue to explain & probably no one would be fired.   We certainly hope not!!  We expressed our concerns but they dismissed them saying "We were like a drink of cold water for them."  Humbling.  We got back to our room about 1 and sweated the afternoon away by reading while lying on the floor wherever we could feel a small breeze.  Lucky for us we had our peanut butter, bread, apples...even a few cookies & cold milk...AND I had one cold Coke Zero saved for times like this!!  It was a looooooong afternoon.  After it cooled down, we visited with our landlord's family and some of the workers who have been working on this house.  It has been in the building process since 2012 and still looks like a construction site complete with piles of broken cement blocks, various torn bags, rears in multitude of sizes & shapes, piles of bits & pieces of lumber, 2 junk cars, 3 lazy dogs scratching and several quite pretty blooming plants.  Our view.

44:

Subject: Update #44 Cemetery & Wildlife Park

Since Penny called school off today, we asked Jr & Kay to take us to the Wildlife Park we'd read about--actually the only thing we'd read about in this area that interested us.  It had closed up months ago...but they knew of another.  On the way, we stopped at a WWII Memorial Cemetery.  Immaculate!  Each of the thousands of markers had a lovely blooming plant next to it and everyone was trimmed neatly.  Amazing!  Jr said it looked this nice because many Australians were buried there and it was cared for by them.  There was a good 3 D map of the Kokodo Trail where soldiers from PNG, Aus & US fought off the Japanese.  The wildlife park was also very well groomed and they were working on building a Ferris wheel, merry-go-round & playground.  I was excited to see the bird of paradise--deepest yellow& red colors with long slender tail feathers!  And another treat--tree kangaroos!  They have a thick & fuzzy looking fur.  Some had climbed way up in a tree so we could barely see them.  Later in town, I saw a couple people trying to sell caged baby tree kangaroos--poor things!!  One of the zoo keepers...who was deaf & didn't speak... followed us bringing out food so the animals would come closer...even the crocodile!  He climbed right into the cage, splashed his hand in the water & then petted the croc when it appeared!  One of his arms was noticeable crippled.  Wonder how that happened?! Around noon it was really hot--felt like we were in a frying pan--so we went to the Nat'l Library.  It was not so cool--or nice--but it had wifi!!  Caught up on news, emails & got off an update.  Always good to hear all is well at home.  Left looking for food and had to stop at 3 restaurants before finding one that had at least 1/2 of what was on their menu--it was like a KFC.  Final stop was JMart--mostly grocery store.  Got lots more water, bread & Coke Zero.  Came home to shower & sit in front of our fan.

45: 

Subject: Update #45 Port Moresby/Ear Problem/Heat & Books Galore!!

Kay was at church this am so we spent the am reading, sweating, writing, sweating, watching the dogs' tails swat flies, sweating, noticing each passing vehicle...and sweating.  It's hot.  Though I've always been a hot weather lover...think I found my max!  There really is no place safe to walk around here, so here we stay.  Heat really does diminish appetites.  We barely eat anything...even Roger!!  We make a pbj sandwich & nibble on it, slowly munch on some granola or peanuts...but guzzle down water...which we purchase every time we go to town.  Water is being rationed in Port Moresby area...turned off from 8 - 2 ...which of course we learned when we tried to shower around 8:15.  Kay & Jr picked us up @2 and we first toured Port Moresby.  It is quite a modern city with lots of tall buildings & some construction...a long beach area that Jr said use to be quite nice...a big port area...over all it didn't take us long to see what was there.  Since my ear has been plugged since our last snorkel trip...and the prescription only med the pharmacist gave me a couple days ago hasn't helped...we headed for a clinic.  For $18 a young Filipino Doctor quickly diagnosed my problem:  wax exposed to so much water had swollen & closed up my ear (sound familiar Bob??).  He had the Rx give me some pure baby oil & said come back in a week to flush it out.  Earlier this week I was telling our neighbor, Ruby how sad I was that Tembari students didn't have any books...we'd shopped for them at the mall but they were over $10 each.  She suggested going to a 2nd hand store...so that is where we headed right from the clinic.  JACKPOT!  For $50 we got over 60 books!  I was like a kid in a candy store!  Most the books appeared to have come from Australia.  Many were familiar titles/authors.  Can't wait to use them!!

46:

Subject: Update #46 Evening Visit with Ruby-Grace-Workers

Late last night, Ruby brought us some rice, cooked cabbage & chicken.  Such a gift!  We'd already eaten so we put it in Grace's (our landlady) refrigerator.  While there we sat and visited with the workers who were awaiting the supper that Grace was fixing them.  They were excited to talk about USA.  So tonight...with the help of Grace...I heated up Ruby's gift to us...talking to Grace as it heated. She never went to school but could speak a bit of English and definitely knew how to laugh heartily.  We watch the sunset from her kitchen table.  Taking the food down to the common area at the end of our hall, we started eating.  Soon Ruby asked to join us.  We easily chatted with her for the next hour or so.  She told us about her village...seems everyone always identifies their village with pride.  She has 4 kids who live with her Mom in her village about an hour away.  Most jobs besides small stands are in PM so here she stays.  She works for Australian Aid--PNG is part of the Commonwealth & call Australia their Mother Country.  She use to work for the airlines and was sad that most foreigners had such a bad image of PNG.  Lack of jobs...2/3 are unemployed...corrupt Gov't that is selling off their land and resources to foreigners and general poverty...especially the fact that they were exporting their gas & it was refined in other countries & then sold back to them at a high $$...all upset her and rightly so.  Ruby asked us lots about USA and we tried to be honest and point out the good and bads...yet without a doubt, we do have it sooo much better.  We showed her the books we'd purchased and told her to pick one out for each of her children.  She was delighted.  Ruby said all the neighbors been asking why Americans would be staying here in this neighborhood.  We told her that we are here so we can visit with PNG people, like her & Grace & the workers.   If we stayed in a hotel,  our visits would be with expats, Asians, Europeans...not PNG people.  We might as well just be on a cruise ship floating by.  We relish the opportunities to talk to locals...so we don't have AC, bed with thick mattress, wifi, pool, share a bathroom & have to eat pb & j...at least we have a true PNG experience!!

47:

Subject: #47 Sunday AfternoonDrive in the Mtns

We'd thought about going to church today but the closest is behind a tall fence around it's community & it'd be a long walk to get to where the gate was.  So we didn't.  We were in the shower before 8 this morning, we learn quickly!  Kay had to take his wife to Drs. so it was around 11 when we heard his honk...Junior was out looking for another ride for us but we soon met up with him.  We headed to the mountains.  Such cool and refreshing winds up there with grand views!!  We made several stops--to see all the action on the river:  swimming, washing clothes & cars.  We saw a car that had missed a curve & landed in the river too.  We bought some roasted potatoes served on a leaf...Mmm.  We all put our heads under a pipe with cold water flowing out.  Ahhh.  People we passed smiled and waved.  People at places we stopped wanted pictures of us...and for us to take their pictures.  So many people just sitting under shade trees.  Our last stop was at a beautiful college campus run by 7th Day Adv. where we too sat under a shade tree to rest.  I had a good discussion with a young girl who will soon be a teacher.  We talked about rote learning vs. small group with individuals responding.  She said PNG kids are not use to telling you what they think but she was hoping to do the small groups...but with a new Gov't policy of no fee education..the pupil #s have sky rocketed...so chances were slim.   I told her whatever happens, teaching is truly a wonderful job and she smiled ear to ear agreeing.  Arrived back to our room around 5--took cool showers...not a problems that there is no hot water!!  Looking forward to being back at Tembari tomorrow ...with books!!

48:

Subject: Update #48 Teaching Again

I only opened a book and they came...over 100 big & little ones sat in the dirt mesmerized by the words and pictures.  I simply love reading aloud to kids--and reading aloud to kids who don't have books or anyone to read to them--it's an absolute thrill!!  This time alone makes it all worth it!!  Rog and I have been pulling small groups of kids from the lower classes.  Some are just learning to write the letter A...others trying to learn to ID letters and a few ready for letter sounds.  Today we even worked a tiny bit on blending sounds in word families.  In the afternoon, we've been working with the 4th & 5th graders.  Rog is doing math & science.  I am reading aloud a story asking comp & inference question...discussing main idea, setting, characters & trying to make personal connections...a few catch on which I know when their eyes sparkle!  Trying to get any kid..young or old...to answer individually is like pulling teeth...like so many other students we have worked with in our travels.  But we coax with a smile and slowly some begin to speak.  At recess & lunch, we play games, read aloud and sing songs.  Another countries kids have learned to play Doggie, Doggie;  Blue Bird, Blue Bird, London Bridges & Follow the Leader!  The only games we have seen them play is pick up sticks with pencils, drop kicking a ball and a jumping game called Jingle Jangle.  According to the posted schedule, the youngest kids leave at 10, next group at noonand oldest at 2...though in the week & a half we've been here...it hasn't happened yet. Kids sent home cause boss calls teacher meeting or just cancels, rain is coming so need to leave in case streams flood, no water...or it's too hot.  During times when they are in session, kids randomly get up and leave to purchase something from nearby vendor or just go for a walk.  Since there are sooooo many in a class, don't think the teachers even notice.  K class is about 60, Prep class( between K & 1) has 76 & 1st grade 88...all sitting in a hot, shipping container!!!  Between the inconsistent and the conditions, it's a wonder they learn anything!!

Update #42

My mom asked me to forward her next few updates:

#42

Kay and Junior picked us up at 8 amand soon we were surrounded by nearly 500 students and 9 teachers...do the math...that's over 50 students per teacher!  We presented them with the computer and printer...telling them it comes with love from our church and with the expectation that they will work hard in school.  After they were back in class, we visited each classroom.  K -3 was in a large shipping container with a fence covered by cardboard dividing the rooms.  Kids sat on the floor squished like sardines...most trying to hear the teacher who had only a Masonite board to teach from.  Kids copied lessons in notebooks...lots of repeat after me...which really means shout after me.  Chaotic!!  Many parents just hung about outside the classrooms.  A few sat close to the door or fence where their child sat so they could help them out.  At noon the kids just ran about or sat under have trees.  No one brought lunch.  A few kids bought some snack foods that vendors nearby were selling.  We nibbled on peanuts and the cook brought us two cold Pepsis....we slugged them down in spite of my Diet Coke preference.  After lunch, the younger kids just sat under a tree as their class was over but they were waiting for older siblings to finish.  The 3 -6 kids wee in a newer and nicer building.  One class had desk...3 kids in each.  Rog taught an English lesson to the 5 th and I taught the 6 th. After the kids left, we sat with the teachers talking teacher talk.  Earlier in the day, we'd met the husband of the founder of Tembari.  He did not know when we were to arrive and was surprised we'd purchased stuff already. He implied he should have been informed.  Teachers said he probably would not have let them get the needed supplies.  They were worried he'd return the computer & printer and get the money to use in the feeding program...which feeds many kids around 4 p.m.  So even here...teachers vs. administration problems. 

  Kay picked us up at 3:30 & dropped us at the mall for dinner before taking us to our room.  

  Some things we learned today:  

-Only 3 of the 45 kids I worked with today had books at home...one had one book and the other two had two books.

-Many students here are orphans that just wander about looking for places to sleep.

-The oldest teacher here is about 70, has taught 38 years and walks 3 hours one way to/from school.  

-Ants can get into ziplock bags.

Update #41 Arrived in Papua New Guinea

In less than a two hour flight, we are in a totally different world.  Step outside the new Papua New Guinea airport and you step off a cliff into poverty.  Streets lined with make shift tin shacks and people selling beetle nut, wood, peanuts, and gasoline in a variety of containers...and more people.  

A grinning Junior Petro Nelson was at the airport with Mindex Kay, our happy go lucky driver to greet us with warm hugs.  We drove to our room for the next three weeks...it is really Junior's but he is staying with a friend.  It is quite new with tile floor....five various patterns...window with screens and a 1 1/2 in foam pad covered with a sheet...our bed.  There is also a table and chairs and best of all...a small fan.  The bathroom with flush toilet and cold shower is just outside the door.  It'll work....and we are grateful to Junior!  After we dropped our bags we did a quick tour of the capital building...very modern with manicured grounds.  Then at Junior's request, we went to purchase a phone at a very fancy mall.  It always amazes me that malls and shacks can be side by side.  jUnior is very efficient and knowledgeable so we let him make the deal and set up the phone.  Then off to find Tembari Children Care center which was much harder! Somewhere in our communication between David (PNG lives in Detroit), Alfredo (our Tembari connection)and Junior (our local host), we failed to get a firm location and phone numbers proved wrong.  Junior was persistent and finally Kay, our driver figured it out as he knew the school but not its name.  So off we went until we got to a dirt road full of chuck holes and ruts that we were barely creeping along which gave me lots of time to absorb the scenes at the side of the road.  Thick dust covered everything.  People seemed to be in still motion.  Moms with babies sitting by market stalls. Kids sitting on tires.  Piles of smoldering trash. Junk skeletons of vehicles.  How do people manage to live...and smile...this way???  Kay was right.  We found Tembari.  The teachers were in a meeting when we arrived.  They greeted us warmly but no one knew we were coming.  We briefly explained who we were and that we had come to help in anyway we could.  Their response, "It is amazing you just arrived cause we had called this meeting to discuss how we were able to continue teaching without some urgently needed materials!  God is good!"  We told them our church sent money with us so in ten minutes we had a list and two teachers were going to meet us at a computer store as that was their first need...they had none.  In true fashion, Junior help select a computer and printer and negotiated a discount price.  Then we went to a school supply store and loaded up on paper, pencils, pens, glue, crayons, teacher manuals, etc...we used every last cent and some out of our pocket.  The teachers were elated.  Finally, we want to find some supper.  PNG usually eat one meal and it is in the evening...starting my mission diet!!!   By the time we laid down on our mat, we were wiped out!!!  We could have slept on anything!

Update #37 Great Barrier Reef

> Yippeeee!! Got on the Reef Experience boat...our 1st choice & also Trip Advisor's 1st choice. They served us a good breakfast & then of to the Great Barrier Reef; Hasting Reef to be exact. Took us a bit over an hour full throttle on a huge catamaran. Spectacular, gigantic, glowing, gorgeous!! Wish they made a box of crayons that could capture the vibrant & varied colors of the coral. And the variety of fish--amazing. Even the black ones looked fantastic with such a beautiful background. I loved watching the tiny fish weave in and out of the waving coral. I could almost touch the huge fish gliding by. Couldn't get enough of seeing the various shapes of coral. So thrilled to see it looking so healthy! The Australian Gov't is trying hard to protect reef by not allowing any boats in most of the GBR. The reef is as long as Calif! I had high expectations...and the GBR surpass them!!!
>
> Here's Rog's take on the GBR:
> Spent the day on the reef. The boat was a big catamaran
> that rode very nicely (no one got seasick!). We go to to go out snorkeling on the reef for as long as we could last. That was over an hour each time. We saw beautiful colors of coral in all shades of pink, violet, blue, green, gold and more. The fish were very plentiful-Jane even spotted Nemo! All kinds of clown fish, angelfish, parrotfish (yes,they have a beak mouth). Just one shark and he was not interested in us...he quickly swam away. The crew reassured us that the on the reef are not considered to be a danger to us! So, why did they all stay on the boat?
>
> Four hours of snorkeling wiped us out...we'll sleep well tonight while visions of coral & fish dance in our heads...

Update #36. Cairns: Green Island

Back on a boat...headed to Green Island which is about a 45 min ride from the mainland. It's a tiny island covered with trees...and tourist. Found a quiet beach area and but on our snorkel gear and a stinger suit to protect us from jellyfish...& sunburn. First site was choppy and we had to swim way out to see anything. Rog made it lots farther so saw some coral & fish. We moved to the other side of the island. Ahh, much better. Besides colorful coral, we spotted a large octopus moving slowly over the coral and two sea turtles as big as a wheel barrow. Took a nap on the beach between snorkel trips. Nice! Loaded up on groceries when we got back to Cairns...since we decided just to stay at Joe's till we leave for PNG. Got new roomies from Taiwan...so learned a bit about Taiwan. Weather looked good for snorkeling trip to the outer reefs tomorrow so we tried to book one...too late...all booking sites were closed for the day. I was really frustrated...we'd been waiting for the best day and maybe waited too long!! Decided we'd wake up early and try our luck in the A.M..

Update #35 Cairns: Tjapukai Center

Addition to Update #34:  According to our roomies from India:  New Delhi population is about the same as the whole of Australia and India's population is growing at a rate of adding the whole of Australia each year!!

Update 35

We're waiting out the cloudy weather...so today we bused to Tjapukai Center.  We find learning about the Aborigines fascinating! The Djabugay was the local tribe near Cairns.  Members of their tribe proudly put on several interesting demonstrations about their food, medicine, weapons, making & playing the  didgeridoo.  Also they performed several dances including the creation story...which included a man killing his brother...sound familiar?  The beat and rhythm of the music was powerful.  Since there was a small crowd, we were able to spend time talking to many of the Djabugay performers.  Some of them just seemed to accept the changes the Westerners caused.  Others were angry.  But one's words will stay with me:  "There isn't a day that goes by that I don't wish to be there...back in the bush."

Here's some of what we learned today about the Djabugay: 

-Today there life expectancy is about 20 yrs less than the rest of the Australians.  200 hundred years ago the average Djabugay lived to be about 100. 

-500 tribes lived mostly peacefully in Australia 

-2000 languages were used...only 275 left.

-There was no word for thank you as sharing was the expected behavior within family and trading happened between groups.

-A man was allowed 10 wives which kept the population up.

-Today Djabugay men prefer to marry white women so they no longer will be expected to share all they have.

Here's what I found on Wiki:

At the time of first European contact, it is estimated that between 315,000 and 750,000 people lived in Australia, with upper estimates being as high as 1.25 million.  A cumulative population of 1.6 billion people has been estimated to have lived in Australia over 70,000 years prior to British colonisation.
The combination of disease, loss of land and direct violence reduced the Aboriginal population by an estimated 90% between 1788 and 1900.

Update #34. Tidbits About Australia

Here's a few of the little things I've noted along the way and just don't want to forget!

-Cranes are everywhere!  Could see 12 outside our window in Sydney.

-Read an article in local news saying that they were passing a law requiring kids to be immunized...or lose their health benefits.

-Most school students wear uniforms that include hats with big brims

-Speed limit on most roads is about 50 mph...on major highway 60 mph and nobody was speeding

-Gas prices about $1 per liter

-Easter lilies grow wild here

-Lots of Chinese tourist who tend to travel with large groups and couldn't help but notice that most families consisted of parents with one son.  Actually did a count while we waited in line once:  14 boys to 4 girls...and all the girls had a brother.

-Stores that are Down Under & USA:

McD, 7/11, Target, KFC, Krisby Kreme, IGA, Aldi, Woolworths, Babies R Us, Toys R Us, Little Caesars, Starbucks, Ben & Jerry, KMart and Dominoes

And loving their accents & sayings like:

G'Day and How ya going?

No Worries

Carry On

Update #33 Kuranda

> Weather was iffy today so took a bus to Kuranda--the traditional home of the Djabugay for 20 or 30,0000 years. Now crowded with souvenir shops loaded with stuff from China & India...and a few items made by the local Djabugays. We'd hoped to take in a Djabugay tour...but it closed down recently. Kinda tells the story of what happens once the Europeans "discover" a country. Saw a few Djabugays hanging around the public restroom...all drinking. Sad. Took the rainforest trail to work up our appetite for lunch: kangaroo steak sandwich. Chewy beef is closest way to describe it. While Rog rested in the shade, I went into a Butterfly Sanctuary and soon was surrounded by vibrant colored butterflies & moths. I also toured the labs where hundreds of caterpillars munched on leaves, cocoons & chrysalis hung, freshly hatched babies fluttered about and plants were being farmed to feed them all. Quite a heavy rainfall started just a half hour before we boarded our bus back. We spent time catching up on emails, news, doing the wash...& writing as the rain waters all the lush vegetation around here. Later, our new neighbors showed up. They are renting the other bedroom in "our" apt. They are newlyweds from India. We had a wonderful time talking to them about their wedding & honeymoon ...2 months long. We showed them some of our favorite pictures of India & which we both enjoyed. Then we got talking about the India & the world's problems. It is always interesting to get other nationalities' take on things. Mostly he (name??) was worried about the future...ISIS & environmental issues. Finally he smiled and said, "Holiday!" In other words...no more talk about problems....We remember so well that same smile & mindset we'd seen so often in India...as their saying goes: "In India, the only problem is...there are no problems!"
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Update #32 Cairns

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> Feeling a bit like a kangaroo me self...hopping about Australia. Packed up our trolley at 4 a.m. And the on to a plane headed to Cairns...pronounced "Cans." We located our Airbnb...nice! Full apt with balcony overlooking a pool & full kitchen. Owner, Joe, is in Japan skiing & his mom was here cleaning up after the last visitors...something wrong with that picture. Took off to find lunch--ate at a Dominoes in support of Ben's new job!! (Hey Ben, not only did they have great pizza but also a spot on warm volcano brownie!! Hope to find those in USA!). We picked up some groceries & then into the pool to cool off...it's about 90 degrees with major humidity. Toward evening we took a stroll on the riverside boardwalk which ended at a park with a gigantic pool...never saw so many people stationary in a pool...not one person was actually swimming...all just trying to cool off. When we got back to "our" apt, we cranked up the AC and fixed chicken salad sandwiches.

Update #32 Cairns

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> Feeling a bit like a kangaroo me self...hopping about Australia. Packed up our trolley at 4 a.m. And the on to a plane headed to Cairns...pronounced "Cans." We located our Airbnb...nice! Full apt with balcony overlooking a pool & full kitchen. Owner, Joe, is in Japan skiing & his mom was here cleaning up after the last visitors...something wrong with that picture. Took off to find lunch--ate at a Dominoes in support of Ben's new job!! (Hey Ben, not only did they have great pizza but also a spot on warm volcano brownie!! Hope to find those in USA!). We picked up some groceries & then into the pool to cool off...it's about 90 degrees with major humidity. Toward evening we took a stroll on the riverside boardwalk which ended at a park with a gigantic pool...never saw so many people stationary in a pool...not one person was actually swimming...all just trying to cool off. When we got back to "our" apt, we cranked up the AC and fixed chicken salad sandwiches.

Update #31 Heading back to Brisbane

Time to head back to Brisbane...slowly with lots of stops.  First one was a short hike to a waterfall where 3 young mates were abseiling.  The word "falls" could have been used two ways...luckily they made it safely.  Driving a bit farther, we stopped where a pile of cars were stopped...what's up?  Parasailing!  Saw at least 20 brave souls run and jump off a high ridge and sail they did.  We noticed that risky, adventurous spirit is common both here and in NZ.  We have enjoyed driving about the hinterlands.  Here's Rog's take on it:

In America we have many place that we named by or in honor of Native Americans.  A few examples are:  Pottowatmie Trail, Hiawatha Nat'l Forest, Tecumseh, Titieawasee River, Lake Huron, Mackinaw Island...and there are many, many more.  Many places in Australia were named by the Aboriginal people who were here for 30,000+ years before the Europeans came just 200 years ago.  Try to read the names of the places we drove to over the last couple days.  We went past Jimboomba on our way to Canungra by way of the Mundoolun Scenic Way.  Then we drove to Binna Berra to do some hiking.  Binna Berra means "where the Antarctic Beech tree grows".  Then on to Burringbar, Murwillumbah, Mooball and finally to Mulumbimby where we are staying tonight with Seeta.   Tomorrow we will pass through Mudgeeraba, Nerang and cross the Tallburdgera River.  If we had more time here, we should go to Baddaddaba and Benobble just because they should neat.  Could you say all those words?  We sure had trouble with many of them.

In Mulumbimby, we took a walk to where the river meets the sea.  Spotted dolphins, turtles & lots of fish and people enjoyed the crystal clear water.  Got a message that we'd left our charger at Jan & Terry's so made a plan to meet up with them on our way back to Brisbane...note to self:  got lucky, we were close by...be more careful!  Got to Brisbane in time to check out tomorrow a.m. Route to drop off our car and then to Colin & Tonya's again for a good night's rest.


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Update #30. Lamington Nat'l Park/World Heritage Site

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> We are in the most pristine rainforest in Australia....not at all the vision we had of Australia...tall trees, thick vines, moss, ferns and lots of waterfalls. We hiked about 7 miles on trails and spotted several blue tongue lizards...big, fat, black & 2-3' long...a tree frog that looked like a leaf...lots of turkey like birds that are related to dinosaurs...and a blue striped crayfish...all while being serenaded by birds. Part of the time we were engulfed in a swirling cloud. We got back to our Airbnb just before a downpour...the first real rain since we left home. We are staying on the top of a hill with a panoramic view...wallaby & hares hopping around the yard...and kookaburra laughing. Our host are Jan & Terry who also love to travel and our talkers...so now we have a few new destinations highly recommended...Bali and Istanbul.