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Sunday, February 28, 2016

Update #37 Great Barrier Reef

> Yippeeee!! Got on the Reef Experience boat...our 1st choice & also Trip Advisor's 1st choice. They served us a good breakfast & then of to the Great Barrier Reef; Hasting Reef to be exact. Took us a bit over an hour full throttle on a huge catamaran. Spectacular, gigantic, glowing, gorgeous!! Wish they made a box of crayons that could capture the vibrant & varied colors of the coral. And the variety of fish--amazing. Even the black ones looked fantastic with such a beautiful background. I loved watching the tiny fish weave in and out of the waving coral. I could almost touch the huge fish gliding by. Couldn't get enough of seeing the various shapes of coral. So thrilled to see it looking so healthy! The Australian Gov't is trying hard to protect reef by not allowing any boats in most of the GBR. The reef is as long as Calif! I had high expectations...and the GBR surpass them!!!
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> Here's Rog's take on the GBR:
> Spent the day on the reef. The boat was a big catamaran
> that rode very nicely (no one got seasick!). We go to to go out snorkeling on the reef for as long as we could last. That was over an hour each time. We saw beautiful colors of coral in all shades of pink, violet, blue, green, gold and more. The fish were very plentiful-Jane even spotted Nemo! All kinds of clown fish, angelfish, parrotfish (yes,they have a beak mouth). Just one shark and he was not interested in us...he quickly swam away. The crew reassured us that the on the reef are not considered to be a danger to us! So, why did they all stay on the boat?
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> Four hours of snorkeling wiped us out...we'll sleep well tonight while visions of coral & fish dance in our heads...

Update #36. Cairns: Green Island

Back on a boat...headed to Green Island which is about a 45 min ride from the mainland. It's a tiny island covered with trees...and tourist. Found a quiet beach area and but on our snorkel gear and a stinger suit to protect us from jellyfish...& sunburn. First site was choppy and we had to swim way out to see anything. Rog made it lots farther so saw some coral & fish. We moved to the other side of the island. Ahh, much better. Besides colorful coral, we spotted a large octopus moving slowly over the coral and two sea turtles as big as a wheel barrow. Took a nap on the beach between snorkel trips. Nice! Loaded up on groceries when we got back to Cairns...since we decided just to stay at Joe's till we leave for PNG. Got new roomies from Taiwan...so learned a bit about Taiwan. Weather looked good for snorkeling trip to the outer reefs tomorrow so we tried to book one...too late...all booking sites were closed for the day. I was really frustrated...we'd been waiting for the best day and maybe waited too long!! Decided we'd wake up early and try our luck in the A.M..

Update #35 Cairns: Tjapukai Center



Addition to Update #34:  According to our roomies from India:  New Delhi population is about the same as the whole of Australia and India's population is growing at a rate of adding the whole of Australia each year!!

Update 35
We're waiting out the cloudy weather...so today we bused to Tjapukai Center.  We find learning about the Aborigines fascinating! The Djabugay was the local tribe near Cairns.  Members of their tribe proudly put on several interesting demonstrations about their food, medicine, weapons, making & playing the  didgeridoo.  Also they performed several dances including the creation story...which included a man killing his brother...sound familiar?  The beat and rhythm of the music was powerful.  Since there was a small crowd, we were able to spend time talking to many of the Djabugay performers.  Some of them just seemed to accept the changes the Westerners caused.  Others were angry.  But one's words will stay with me:  "There isn't a day that goes by that I don't wish to be there...back in the bush."

Here's some of what we learned today about the Djabugay: 
-Today there life expectancy is about 20 yrs less than the rest of the Australians.  200 hundred years ago the average Djabugay lived to be about 100. 
-500 tribes lived mostly peacefully in Australia 
-2000 languages were used...only 275 left.
-There was no word for thank you as sharing was the expected behavior within family and trading happened between groups.
-A man was allowed 10 wives which kept the population up.
-Today Djabugay men prefer to marry white women so they no longer will be expected to share all they have.

Here's what I found on Wiki:
At the time of first European contact, it is estimated that between 315,000 and 750,000 people lived in Australia, with upper estimates being as high as 1.25 million.  A cumulative population of 1.6 billion people has been estimated to have lived in Australia over 70,000 years prior to British colonisation.
The combination of disease, loss of land and direct violence reduced the Aboriginal population by an estimated 90% between 1788 and 1900.




Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Update #34. Tidbits About Australia


Here's a few of the little things I've noted along the way and just don't want to forget!

-Cranes are everywhere!  Could see 12 outside our window in Sydney.
-Read an article in local news saying that they were passing a law requiring kids to be immunized...or lose their health benefits.
-Most school students wear uniforms that include hats with big brims
-Speed limit on most roads is about 50 mph...on major highway 60 mph and nobody was speeding
-Gas prices about $1 per liter
-Easter lilies grow wild here
-Lots of Chinese tourist who tend to travel with large groups and couldn't help but notice that most families consisted of parents with one son.  Actually did a count while we waited in line once:  14 boys to 4 girls...and all the girls had a brother.
-Stores that are Down Under & USA:
McD, 7/11, Target, KFC, Krisby Kreme, IGA, Aldi, Woolworths, Babies R Us, Toys R Us, Little Caesars, Starbucks, Ben & Jerry, KMart and Dominoes

And loving their accents & sayings like:
G'Day and How ya going?
No Worries
Carry On

Update #33 Kuranda

> Weather was iffy today so took a bus to Kuranda--the traditional home of the Djabugay for 20 or 30,0000 years. Now crowded with souvenir shops loaded with stuff from China & India...and a few items made by the local Djabugays. We'd hoped to take in a Djabugay tour...but it closed down recently. Kinda tells the story of what happens once the Europeans "discover" a country. Saw a few Djabugays hanging around the public restroom...all drinking. Sad. Took the rainforest trail to work up our appetite for lunch: kangaroo steak sandwich. Chewy beef is closest way to describe it. While Rog rested in the shade, I went into a Butterfly Sanctuary and soon was surrounded by vibrant colored butterflies & moths. I also toured the labs where hundreds of caterpillars munched on leaves, cocoons & chrysalis hung, freshly hatched babies fluttered about and plants were being farmed to feed them all. Quite a heavy rainfall started just a half hour before we boarded our bus back. We spent time catching up on emails, news, doing the wash...& writing as the rain waters all the lush vegetation around here. Later, our new neighbors showed up. They are renting the other bedroom in "our" apt. They are newlyweds from India. We had a wonderful time talking to them about their wedding & honeymoon ...2 months long. We showed them some of our favorite pictures of India & which we both enjoyed. Then we got talking about the India & the world's problems. It is always interesting to get other nationalities' take on things. Mostly he (name??) was worried about the future...ISIS & environmental issues. Finally he smiled and said, "Holiday!" In other words...no more talk about problems....We remember so well that same smile & mindset we'd seen so often in India...as their saying goes: "In India, the only problem is...there are no problems!"
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Update #32 Cairns

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> Feeling a bit like a kangaroo me self...hopping about Australia. Packed up our trolley at 4 a.m. And the on to a plane headed to Cairns...pronounced "Cans." We located our Airbnb...nice! Full apt with balcony overlooking a pool & full kitchen. Owner, Joe, is in Japan skiing & his mom was here cleaning up after the last visitors...something wrong with that picture. Took off to find lunch--ate at a Dominoes in support of Ben's new job!! (Hey Ben, not only did they have great pizza but also a spot on warm volcano brownie!! Hope to find those in USA!). We picked up some groceries & then into the pool to cool off...it's about 90 degrees with major humidity. Toward evening we took a stroll on the riverside boardwalk which ended at a park with a gigantic pool...never saw so many people stationary in a pool...not one person was actually swimming...all just trying to cool off. When we got back to "our" apt, we cranked up the AC and fixed chicken salad sandwiches.

Update #32 Cairns

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> Feeling a bit like a kangaroo me self...hopping about Australia. Packed up our trolley at 4 a.m. And the on to a plane headed to Cairns...pronounced "Cans." We located our Airbnb...nice! Full apt with balcony overlooking a pool & full kitchen. Owner, Joe, is in Japan skiing & his mom was here cleaning up after the last visitors...something wrong with that picture. Took off to find lunch--ate at a Dominoes in support of Ben's new job!! (Hey Ben, not only did they have great pizza but also a spot on warm volcano brownie!! Hope to find those in USA!). We picked up some groceries & then into the pool to cool off...it's about 90 degrees with major humidity. Toward evening we took a stroll on the riverside boardwalk which ended at a park with a gigantic pool...never saw so many people stationary in a pool...not one person was actually swimming...all just trying to cool off. When we got back to "our" apt, we cranked up the AC and fixed chicken salad sandwiches.

Update #31 Heading back to Brisbane


Time to head back to Brisbane...slowly with lots of stops.  First one was a short hike to a waterfall where 3 young mates were abseiling.  The word "falls" could have been used two ways...luckily they made it safely.  Driving a bit farther, we stopped where a pile of cars were stopped...what's up?  Parasailing!  Saw at least 20 brave souls run and jump off a high ridge and sail they did.  We noticed that risky, adventurous spirit is common both here and in NZ.  We have enjoyed driving about the hinterlands.  Here's Rog's take on it:

In America we have many place that we named by or in honor of Native Americans.  A few examples are:  Pottowatmie Trail, Hiawatha Nat'l Forest, Tecumseh, Titieawasee River, Lake Huron, Mackinaw Island...and there are many, many more.  Many places in Australia were named by the Aboriginal people who were here for 30,000+ years before the Europeans came just 200 years ago.  Try to read the names of the places we drove to over the last couple days.  We went past Jimboomba on our way to Canungra by way of the Mundoolun Scenic Way.  Then we drove to Binna Berra to do some hiking.  Binna Berra means "where the Antarctic Beech tree grows".  Then on to Burringbar, Murwillumbah, Mooball and finally to Mulumbimby where we are staying tonight with Seeta.   Tomorrow we will pass through Mudgeeraba, Nerang and cross the Tallburdgera River.  If we had more time here, we should go to Baddaddaba and Benobble just because they should neat.  Could you say all those words?  We sure had trouble with many of them.

In Mulumbimby, we took a walk to where the river meets the sea.  Spotted dolphins, turtles & lots of fish and people enjoyed the crystal clear water.  Got a message that we'd left our charger at Jan & Terry's so made a plan to meet up with them on our way back to Brisbane...note to self:  got lucky, we were close by...be more careful!  Got to Brisbane in time to check out tomorrow a.m. Route to drop off our car and then to Colin & Tonya's again for a good night's rest.


Sent from my iPad

Sunday, February 21, 2016

Update #30. Lamington Nat'l Park/World Heritage Site

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> We are in the most pristine rainforest in Australia....not at all the vision we had of Australia...tall trees, thick vines, moss, ferns and lots of waterfalls. We hiked about 7 miles on trails and spotted several blue tongue lizards...big, fat, black & 2-3' long...a tree frog that looked like a leaf...lots of turkey like birds that are related to dinosaurs...and a blue striped crayfish...all while being serenaded by birds. Part of the time we were engulfed in a swirling cloud. We got back to our Airbnb just before a downpour...the first real rain since we left home. We are staying on the top of a hill with a panoramic view...wallaby & hares hopping around the yard...and kookaburra laughing. Our host are Jan & Terry who also love to travel and our talkers...so now we have a few new destinations highly recommended...Bali and Istanbul.

Update #29 Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary

 

Off again!  Picked up a rental and drove around Brisbane's road maze until we found a way out and then headed to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.  It was loaded with koalas and kangaroos...just love them both!  Also got to see some platypus!!  It is such an unique mammal...it lays eggs...uses it bill to find food using lector reception...milks its young through pores...and it is cute!  We also witnessed Tasmanian Devils fighting...their ears really do turn red and two tiny horns pop up.  Their new born joeys are a size of a grain of rice.  They also had a flock of sheep and a well trained sheep dog (looked a lot like our old dog, Shep) who herded the sheep with ease.  Then we watched a sheep get sheared.  The shearer had a harness sling which made it much easier on his back.  In 1990 there were 171 million sheep in Australia...now there are only 70 million....and only 3000 shearers who get paid $2.80 per sheep.  The record is 286 sheared in 9 hrs!!  That's less than one a minute.  Though we'd seen most of the animals we saw today in Sydney ...or home...we never get tired of watching what animals do!

Update #28 Brisbane

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> Flew into Brisbane & Colin, our Airbnb host, picked us up. We visited with him & Tonya, his wife for almost an hour. They live in his family home which is an older, large historical timber & tin house built on elevated stumps for ventilation and accommodate the hilly terrain. He said he'd never could afford it himself as home prices are astronomical here. Colin advises banks on real estate decisions & says Australia is being very selective on what they will sell to Chinese. Tonya, a social worker is from Germany. They met in S. Africa while working at an orphanage. We had lots to talk about. Our room was lovely...and cheaper than last night's dive!!! Woke early--thanks to the time change--and after a nice breakfast & some hints from Tonya--got the bus to downtown Brisbane & our next spot. The housekeeper met us & gave us a key & we dropped our luggage then headed out. After several wrong turns, made it to the ferry...city hopper. Riding on the shaded top deck cooled us down and we got to see lots of Brisbane...and it was free. After lunch, we stopped in a Visitor Center. Not too helpful--no bus or train schedule & couldn't help us figure out their CityCycle program. We see the bikes everywhere but few helmets & you need a special card to unlock them...not too tourist friendly. Bummer. With no bus or train map, we pounded the hot pavement til we finally got back to our apt, threw on our suits & jumped in the gorgeous pool. Ahhhh!! This place is like a 5 star hotel...spacious rooms with full kitchen & patio. Pool with sandy beach. Hot tub. Luxury! And cheaper than that dive!!! Francesco, the owner, has sent us several emails making sure all is well. Sure is! We picked up some groceries and so we ate in & about 6, totally refreshed headed back down to the ferry getting off at the Cultural Center area. A huge pool--with a big manmade sandy beach was being enjoyed by lots....and as far as we could tell, stays open 24/7. A great water park, a huge Ferris wheel, a lovely park and a nice river walk --what a jewel in this city...which has totally revived itself in just he last 40 years according to what a guide told us. The bridges, bldgs, walkways & cliffs were all lit up on our ferry ride back. Nice!! Brisbane Day 2: we got the bus system figured out so quickly we got to the Brisbane Museum...located in the Gov't Bldg...ornate & gorgeous. Went up the 1930 elevator to the top of the clock tower, sat in the domed assembly room where the G20 convention was held, learned more about the history of Brisbane...which like several other Australian cities, was originally a penal colony. Also enjoyed an art display of camera obscura pictures & watched a film about how they are created. Very interesting. Stops on our way back home included St. John's Cathedral, Albert St. Church and the old windmill...oldest building in town. We made sandwiches when we got back, threw our sweaty clothes in the washer and then in the pool!! Heading out of town tomorrow in a rental checking out what lies west of Brisbane.

Update #27 Food

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> It's been the usual scenario when it comes to food. Rog searches the menu looking for something unusual which confidence he'll love whatever he gets. I search the menu for something familiar in the hopes I'll like it...and I often strike out...like the egg rolls & the cheese/bacon pie...no idea what was inside of either but it sure wasn't what I expected!! To make matters tricker, we often share a meal...so we just take turns ordering....works great for Rog....and I can usually pick out enough to be satisfied...and Diet Coke is everywhere so I'm happy. Food prices in both NZ & Australia is about about 50% more as USA...even in the large grocery stores which are similar to ours with lots to select from. It has been nice not to have to wonder if the food & water is safe!!!

Update #26 Last Day in Sydney: Bondi to Bronte Walk

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> We were up and out of that dive early and soon walking the Bondi to Bronte Walk...a glorious 6 km path between these two fabulous aches. Bondi beach is about 1km long & maybe 150m deep. The walk took us along the bank of carved out sandstone, sandy coves & rocky cliffs. Waves were lapping & spouting over the boulders and the water full of surfers. The cool breeze added to the pleasure. We returned the rental car...with no dents...and Rog let out a sigh of relief and decided that wherever possible...we'll use public transportation.

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Update #25 Valentine's Day--the Good, the Bad & the Ugly

> Headed back to Sydney with no plan for the day. Stopped at a McD to book a room about half way back and then stopped at a visitor center near Penrith...for such a big city, they sure didn't have much that we were interested in. Since it was hot, we decided to do the river walk & we were told we might see platypus. Bad & Ugly-River was muddy & banks were littered. Met a guy fishing in the river who told us he been fishing everyday for a month...no platypus. It was hot as an oven & no breeze. We crawled back to our car & went looking for lunch...all the way to the Outback...restaurant that is. Good!! Every bite like eating at the one home. Made another stop at McD to see if there was a movie near & then off we went to search for it. Bad. Traffic was thick & we didn't have accurate directions so had to turn around lots...which is hard enough when you are driving on the "right side" but totally screwed up on the other side. Finally found the theater but the movie we wanted was sold out. Bad. But decided on The Choice...which was a Good choice. Predictable but entertaining. Popcorn was blah...no butter or salt. Bad. Finding our hotel was easier...Good...but the hotel--BAD & UGLY!!! Had it not been after 10, we'd moved on and we are not too picky so you can imagine what kind of place it was...though I shouldn't complain...we actually had our own waterfall right in our room....air conditioner had a major leak...and our bed was on great rollers so every time we touched the wall, we'd go for a ride...though not too far cause the room was tiny! And to top it off, a slight screech from the AC grew with intensity until finally around 2 am, we pulled the plug...the heat was easier to endure. Sure made us appreciate all the other great rooms we've been in!! Good! So ends my story of the Valentine's Day Good/Bad/Ugly!!

Update #24 Ukulele Festival & Everglades Estate

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> After hiking on to see just "one more waterfall"...we headed to a Ukulele Festival...and what a treat! Ukulele groups...many with other instruments as well...from all over. Each got 30 min on one of the 7 stages from 10 am to 11 pm!! There was a whole lot of lively music, toe tapping and clapping going on. All pretty awesome. The crowd loved me and they totally loved performing. Only thing better would have been if some of our music, strumming friends were with us...like Terri & Ted who probably would have been up on the stage! Around 2 pm we took a break & headed to the Everglades Estate where we meandered around their extensive gardens filled with flowering shrubs, shady trees, ponds and of course, gorgeous flowers...many we have but also many we have seen in other countries even in rainforest & tropics. There was even a man made, rock-lined, creative creek & amazing waterfall complete with a pool. Again I was jealous of not just the variety of blooms but also the length of time they bloom. Something is blooming almost all year long. I'd work harder in my garden if that were the case in Michigan. Toward evening, we headed back for another fix of music & got it. Rog's favorite group what's a 4 man group with a terrific lead singer. Mine was a huge...may 30...high energy group that was having a blast entertaining us. All in all, a great day which ended in the cabin we've been staying in. There I popped some corn and we watched Robin Hood on TV.

Sunday, February 14, 2016

Update #23. Blue Mountains/Scenic World/Blackheath




We were at Scenic World when the door opened.  Scenic World features 3 different rides down & over the mountains...the quickest way to "see it all."  Our first ride was in a skyway car that glided 270m between cliff tops above the Jamison Valley.  What a view...it would have been if we weren't in a thick cloud...so glad we got there so early!  Not to be discouraged, we climbed aboard the railway which at a 52 degree incline quickly had us down to the bottom.  There we walked the boardwalks that twisted & turned through the ancient forest while signs told us what we were seeing. So many different types of trees & evidence of past natural & manmade influence on their growth.   For 15 years this area was mined for coal...which is how the whole Scenic World vision began...on the coal bin tracks.  We took a cableway up 545m back to the base for lunch.  Now with a clear sky, we got back on the skyway car and this time the valley way, way, way below was crystal clear!  Back in our car, we headed for Blackheath...still in the Blue Mountains and still loving the various hues of blue that covers this entire area.  Rog and I toured the Blue Ridge Mountains in USA on our honeymoon (spending a whole lot less) so memories are popping up.  The blue here is much more pronounced because the oil that the Eucalyptus tree gives off. We spent about 10 hours today traveling the backroads pulling off often and searching for animals & we found them:  lyre birds, 3-4' iguana like creature, cockatoo, kookaburras and lots of hopping, happy kangaroos!!  What a riot to watch them!  We drove from the top of cliffs to the valleys below where the land was pastured & only a few towns...on curvy, narrow, and steep roads...sometimes feet away from the edge of cliffs.   Rog drove slowwwwly and carefullllly....and I just got to enjoy it!!  

Update #22. Katoomba/ Blue Mountains/Aboriginal Centre



Woke up early to get take in the morning views of the vast and breathtaking Blue Mountains...the vertical sandstone cliffs reaching the sky and the endless valley crowded with vegetation, rainforest area and the largest eucalyptus tree forest in the world...so many Gum Trees (their nickname)....no wonder the koala & kookaburra...and now us...love it here!!    And truly blue!  Slowly driving the Blue Mountain Drive , we stopped at every pull over to be awed over and over.  In the heat of the day, we went to the Waradah Aboriginal Centre. Members of the Gundungarra group performed for us beginning with their smoking ceremony.  A brief history of the area, introduction of some of the many groups & their languages as well as an explanation of their body paintings gave us a good background making the skits/dances much more meaningful.  A reenactment of the story told of how the didgeridoo was found was especially interesting...the sounds he could make to imitate animals & nature were great.  History:  At one time, most of Australia was home to about 250 family clans...each with their own language & customs.  For over 20,000 years (some think 30,000) they lived peacefully together.  No you or me...only us.  No mine or yours...only ours.  And the bush was cared for and was relatively  in pristine condition.  When the Europeans arrived about 200 years ago, things changed drastically and quickly...the ways of the Aboriginals ended as their land was taken away.  Sadly the same story repeated in so much of our world.  The good news is a revival of their culture and a recognition of their rights...and the Aborigines are showcasing their culture and making $$ doing it!  We wandered around some more before ending the day watching the sun set...in the SW...over the Blue Mountains...the blues, yellows, oranges, pinks painting a masterpiece before our eyes. 

Update #21 Featherdale Wildlife Park



We left the big town of Sydney behind...and headed to the country...in a rental car...driving on the "wrong side"...and Rog with white knuckles!!  First stop was the Featherdale Wildlife Park--home to lots of Australian native animals.  The park is uniquely designed so many of the animals can roam as they please with certain areas marked Animal Refuge area.  So we got up close and personal with the koalas,  kangaroos, wallabies and lots of birds & ducks.  Other animals were caged in very natural settings:  squirrel bats, emu, echidna, blue penguins, dingo, Tasmanian Devil, wombats, lyre birds, kookaburras, many species of cockatoos & owls & parrots...and lots more.  The staff was busy feeding the animals, giving them meds, and lots of TLC.  They obviously loved their jobs!  We spent most the day being entertained by all the animals' antics.  Finally around 5, we went looking for Katoomba and our beds for the night. 

Friday, February 12, 2016


Opera House lit for Chinese NY
Koala & Jane
Kangeroo & Rog
Last AirBnB in NZ
Inside Opera House

Blue Mountains




Wish u were here!

Wish u were here!

Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Rog and his kangaroo buddy



Last view of NZ


Update #20 Sydney Snippets

-Woke up to the laughing sound of a kookaburra!! Gotta look for a gum tree now!!

-Spotted this poem & dedicate it to Rog's Mom:
I think that I shall never spy
A poem as lovely as a pie.

-Saw a Woolworth with a cafe so had to eat there for nostalgia sake...Rog's mom's egg run lunch stop. It was serving Chinese food and seemed to be for seniors only. We were the young ones! 

-10:30 a.m. Monday 2/8: we heard rowdy cheers & saw a huge crowd pouring out of a bar...walked in to see the Super Bowl on the big screen! A day late here but just as exciting!

Update #19 Tom & Vanessa

A traveler we met once told me never say "Goodbye" but instead "Hope to see you later!" And she was right. Here in Sydney we met up with Tom who we met in India & Vanessa in the Philippines. Tom is an Aussie & works for McD here...yup we told him we want more good stuff offered at McD in USA. Over BBQ lunch at his apt we reminisced about our time in India & caught up a bit. Later we went to the beach with him & his daughter, Charlie where they & 800 other nippers (kids) were learning to swim & be safe in the ocean. Some of Tom's friends& Charlie's mom & stepbrother joined us after class and we had a lazy couple hours relaxing & conversing about life, US & Aus politics & travels. We felt like family. Tom has a good life here. Vanessa, a Filipino, has been just 4 months and is still in culture shock. Her Aussie boyfriend encouraged her to come here to get a job. She misses home but likes her job & the $$. She was so excited to see us and filled us in on all the All Hands/Leyte news. 
> We have noticed that while traveling in NZ & Aus, we see so many tourist and you just don't make the connections like when we traveled where tourist are few and far between. And locals, though very helpful & friendly, don't end up giving us their email addresses!! Even our Airbnb hosts are great for sharing their homes & having interesting conversations...but we are one of many and we are quickly gone & replaced. On the buses, trains & planes, we often can't start up a conversation like we have done in so many of the 2nd & 3rd world countries we've traveled...because the person next to us is on his phone or has earplugs in. We miss making those connections...like Tom & Vanessa.

Update #18 Sydney Sites

So much to see and do here...and we can jump on ferries to get from site to site!! We've enjoyed Darling Wharf with its Chinese celebrations and its Month of Love events...and since both love the color red, the Opera House & the Harbor Bridge glowed red. Luna Park's carnival was a fun setting. The Botanical Gardens had thousands of flowers & trees in bloom...many of the flowers we have at home but they have many more types of trees. At Watson Bay we walked the Gap Trail which led us out to the cliffs that protect Sydney. The ferocious Tasman Sea beat against the high vertical cliffs leaving only a small gap for boats to enter the Sydney harbor. One day we hopped on the train & took it as far SW as we could. We passed miles of suburbs crowded with small homes, tall apt buildings, large factories & commercial buildings until finally, quite near the end of the line, we came to open land & a few grazing cattle. Walking the many piers was always entertaining as musicians & performers try to earn a few coins. We especially enjoyed listening to the didgeridoo, an ancient instrument. This city is alive and well

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Update #17 Sydney Opera House

> I'm sitting in a small park next to the apt building where Tricia, our host (born in AnnArbor!!) and we now live. Directly in front of me is the Harbor Bridge and the iconic Opera House...sailing by is a replica of a sailboat from the past...probably similar to the sailboats that inspired Ulzon's design!! He wanted it to be one with the sea...and it is. Learned so many fascinating facts on our tour of the the Opera House: Over 200 architects submitted plans & though Ulzon's was just 38 & unknown & had not consulted an engineer, his was picked; Ulzon was asked to leave the building site (political reasons) and never saw his completed masterpiece; all the roof pieced together would form a circle; the special made tiles that cover the roof are mostly tan but turn white when kissed by the sun & the roof itself seems to be in motion as the clouds pass over it due to the angles; it is built on a raised sandstone colored foundation because Ulzon was inspired as a young child when the feeling of height he got when he climbed an ancient temple...just like the ones we climbed in Guatemala & Mexico; though it took years to build, no one was killed; the theaters are built with a medley of woods & wool to absorb all echo so true clarity is heard in every seat; no mics or amplifiers of any kind are every used; 95% of the time the venues & theaters are fully booked. I can tell you all those facts but I can't explain the miraculous sound of the music. I'm sure Annie Klark & Elsi Sly's trained ears would have been in ecstasy. Even my untrained ear smiled. My minute background in operas & foreign language did little to keep me from being totally awed. Our show featured four Australian opera singers performing Ten Great Opera Hits and accompanied by a master piano player. What a glorious way to spend a Sunday afternoon in Sydney!!!
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> Sent from my iPad

Thursday, February 4, 2016

Update #16 Sydney Day 1 & 2

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> We made it to Sydney...a sprawling, upbeat port city filled with almost 5 million Aussies...plus what seems like thousands of Chinese tourist. Our Airbnb is near Chinatown and Sydney is gearing up to celebrate the Chinese New Year. Our flight got us in around 5:30 pm and by 7:30 we were getting acquainted with Ethan, our host. He's Taiwanese and here studying. We settled in and spent time planning our next couple days. Got an early start the next am.m and since it was misting, we headed to the Australian Museum. I loved the room filled with ornate, whimsical, colorful, unique and fascinating face mask...most from Papua New Guinea...which increased our excitement for our visit to PNG coming up! Other amazing exhibits: extinct section with the Demon Duck of Doom...the size of a camel--a 600 lb giant kangaroo--the Hobbit...nickname of short human like mammal recently found. St Mary's Cathedral was our next stop. Gigantic arched pillars showcasing glorious stain glass windows and intricately carved main altar. Massive. We walked to the Circular Quay harbor to get a good view of the Opera House...Ahhh! Then off to the Rock Museum where we learned the history of Sydney which was built on the rugged rocky coast. The. Aborigines lived here about 30,000 years before the British landed. Next boat loads of convicts were dumped here by the British. Soon Sydney became quite an important trading port. Australia has made a concerted effort to assimilate the Aborigines into the mainstream without squelching their culture. Another neat exhibit showed the rise and fall of sea levels over the last 60,000 years and its effect on this area's landscape. Many of the early stately buildings are still here so we spent the next while looking for them. Saw many after climbing to the top of the Sydney bridge. Had a fish & chip dinner overlooking the bay before heading "home." After a break & enjoying some of the stir fry Ethan fixed, we went for a walk to Darling Bay...a hot spot for food, bars and evening entertainment. Liking Sydney!!
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> Sent from my iPad

Update #15 Good to Know About NZ

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> Here's a few last Good to Knows About NZ
> 1. Don't compare a North NZer to a South NZer...it's like calling a New Yorker a Californian!
> 2. Avoid NZ around Chinese New Year. In that 10 day period about 60,000 Chinese descend on NZ.
> 3. Use Connectabus--great and efficient way to get around and most of the drivers are a wealth of info and love talking to you.
> 4. Big plus for NZ: no snakes!
> 5. Most electricity for NZ is generated using hydropower in SNZ.
> 6. 65% of NZers live north of Hamilton.
> 7. Lots of cheese and lamb selections on menus.
> 8. Need lots of $$$ for a trip to NZ!

Update #14 Back to Queenstown to Relax

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> After a host bike ride along the lake, we were headed back to Queenstown where we'd booked an Airbnb with Megan and Richard. Their condo overlooks Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables (name of the twin peaks). They've traveled lots using Airbnb so said--why not offer our extra bedroom?? We went to town for dinner and got some groceries for next day. We visited with Megan & Richard talking about our upcoming US elections and the Flint water mess. It always amazes me how much people halfway around the world know and care about US news! Megan set out a nice selection of breakfast food for us before she left for work which we ate leisurely enjoying the view. I put a load of wash in and did more later so we'd have clean clothes again. Then I caught up on emails & updates while Rog caught up on the world news. We'd bought salad stuff & a broasted chicken so made a big salad...ate half saving the rest for supper. Rog went to town for a bike ride while I finished up my writing sitting on the balcony. Late in the afternoon I felt caught up so I finally started reading the book I'd brought. We needed this relaxing, catch up day. Tomorrow we fly to Sydney!

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Update #13 Off to Noy Zylan by Rog

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> 'Allo all U.S.ers,
> Off to Noy Zylan wi' me gal....jus' a trampin' 'roun the trees and bushes like scorched rabbits we are! Seein' some great sights! Enjoyin' how they pronounce me name-Ro' jur. Almost as good as India where they called me Rah' jah and treated me like a king!
> We have come across a few idioms that reveal a bit of the humor and joy of life that we have experienced here.
> Describing a notable rugby player..."he walks like a washing machine".
> Talking about some who had passed away..." 'e got on the big ship!"
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> Many older people seem to be driving bus or taxi...it seems that they are finding it difficult to replace drivers with younger people because the job requires a life style that most young people do not want. Long hours, poor or unhealthy food choices,little opportunity to pursue activities like hiking, tramping, hunting, fishing,biking,etc.
> Ahh! The South Island, or Mainland as those that live here like to say, is a bit cooler and much lower in population so those that live here feel somewhat superior to their countrymen to the North (even though they are inferior on the globe). Hunting and fishing is pretty big here along with lots of extreme sports. Oh, and the speech here is easier for us to understand.
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> Sent from my iPad

Update #12 Locked Out

> We decided to eat in tonight so we picked up some sandwiches, chips, apples, a Diet Coke and a rather large highly rated beer. You can guess who drank what. We ate in the living room of our suite which had 3 private bedrooms surrounding it. After a bit, Rog went into our bedroom to read & I stayed in the living room to write. Two girls from Jerusalem and a boy from Chile & an Australian girl who I assume was his girlfriend, soon joined me as they were in the other 2 bedrooms. The Ausie went to bed early. The rest of us sat around swapping stories and learning a bit about each other. The girls told me how they loved Israel and felt very safe there & had a deep feeling of connection with all their countrymen. The Chile guy was studying English here. Quite a bit later, we said good night. Our bedroom door was locked so I knocked...no answer...only loud snores...I knocked harder...no answer...I called "ROGER"...no answer. The Ausie came out of her room wearing not much and saying she could hear loud snoring...I said I'd offer her earplugs but they were locked in the room. I went out on our balcony and tapped on the window...then pounded....harder. No answer. I walked to the check-in desk. Closed for the night. I came back and one of the girls beat on the door while I pounded on the window...until a guest down stairs shouted, "Hey Matey, keep the noise down!" We tried all the others' keys. No luck. It was late so the girls gave me their extra blanket and I tried to make myself comfortable on the small couch in the living room where I could hear Roger snoring through the wall between us. A few hours later, a confused Roger opened the door. He owes me.

Update #11 TeAnau Glowworm Cave

Why TeAnau...Glowworm cave. The word TeAnau in Maori means cave with rushing waters. Though kept secret for many years as it the Maori believed the cave held the eyes of their deceased, the name encouraged a British explorer to search until he found it...and of course it soon turned into a tourist attraction. We don't usually gravitate toward tourist attractions unless they involve nature. And this one was cool. A catamaran took us across the gigantic Lake TeAnau to the cave opening. Ducking low, we entered...more dark and damp with each step...and surprisingly noisier as water rushed by us. We climbed metal stairs lit up by tiny lamps passing waterfalls that were carving unique sculptured rock formations and whirlpools. On the top of one of the falls, we climbed into a small boat. No more lights. Just pitch black. We glided into a silent grotto and barely above us were the glowworms. Picture thousands of fire flies constantly lit up. Like a clear night sky with bright iridescent green stars. Extraordinary! Back at the info center, we learned what we were really seeing was glow larvae begging for food and under each were dozens of long sticky strings just waiting to catch an insect. Isn't nature amazingly cunning!!!
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> Sent from my iPad

Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Update #10. Fjord National Park/Milford Sound

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> Our guide for the day, Nijal in his BBQ bus picked us up at 7:30 a.m. Along with 7 others, we headed for Fjord Nat'l Park. It took us 7 hours since Nijal stopped often along the way so we wouldn't miss some fantastic views, waterfalls, Mirror Lake, and other short hikes where we spotted foxgloves, lupines and Mt Cook lilies--which are actually the largest buttercups in the world. While we were hiking a trail through a eire, deep & dark, moss covered woods, Nijal was cooking up a scrumptious lunch on his BBQ. We set out folding chairs next to a babbling, crystal turquoise blue stream..really never seen a stream this color...and devoured our lunch and the view. At Nijal's encouragement, we drank the icy cold water right from the stream. Back on bus, Nijal continued filling us in on info which made everything so much more interesting. Abundant rain is why the beech, lancewood & loblolly pine trees, ferns and shrubs (all native) are so thick and lush. Rog, of course, loved seeing the many geological features: sedimentary rock at 90degree, glacier till, moraines, glacial striation and massive rock slides. We were so awed by so many gorgeous views on the way...and then we loaded a boat and headed into the Milford Sound. You know the saying--you won't believe it until you see it! But it was more than seeing it. It was being in the middle. The 360 degree panoramic effect. The wind. The immenseness of the shear cliffs. The clarity of the deepest blue water. The fuzzy brown fur seals sprawled out on the boulders. The waterfalls making rainbows with their spray. When we reached the Tasmanian Sea, we turned around. The wind stopped and stillness took over. Incredible. Unforgettable.
> Back on the bus Nijal chatted on about all we asked about: Schools- 6-16 compulsory/ University costly, difficult to get into & through. Prime Minister Key-self made millionaire/donates salary to charity/NZers think he's selling off too much of NZ to foreigners. Tourism-growing leaps and bounds. Farms-mostly privately owned though many corporate owned/ dairy farmers hurting right now due to low prices/not enough sheep shearers & few young ones. Soon enough it was time to get dropped of in TeAnau right in front of The Lakeside Backpackers Hostel...home for the night.
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> Sent from my iPad