Eleven down...how many more trips to go?? I sure don't know.
Again we experienced a unique, enriching & wonderful trip. Having Ben & Jen with us for the first 2 weeks in itself made this trip extraordinary. To work beside them, see their excitement of being with the locals & the thrill of spotting animals in the wild! All priceless.
Mozambique poverty makes my heart hurt. Yet as in other poor countries, we find much joy. Joy in their everyday lives. We, of course, found joy in helping build new schools along side AHAH volunteers, playing with orphans & disabled kids, spending time with the Larsons & Iris missionaries.
South Africa has spectacular landscapes: felt covered mountains, roaring waterfalls, gorgeous flowers, rich crops & endless fabulous beaches. But we fear for it's future. Many of our Airbnb host shared much about the real South Africa...a 3rd world county with a 1st world veneer...that's cracking. The rich white own everything and the struggling blacks do the work. A black leader governs. The tension was always in the air.
Lesotho is a proud tiny country that is barely surviving & still living in the last century. Herding animals still common. They are tightly holding on to their traditions.
And Botswanan emerging as an African success story. Never had the white/black issue. Their middle class is increasing & mostly black shop in their brand new malls...or in the small vendors right in front of the malls. Several good roads with animals grazing on the side and mediums. Time spent with Em added the sprinkle on top.
The Coronavirus cut our trip 2 weeks short as news of travel bans & flight cancellation escalated. In spite of all the hype, we did not experience any precautions..no temps taken, no gloves/mask offered & no hand sanitizer available before or after flights. Not in any of the 4 airports we were in. Not even Detroit.
When we got to Canada, I put my US sim card in. A recent message from Sarah hit us like an asteroid. Jake had fallen and was in ICU. Ben (with Lysol spray bottle) picked us up, stopped & got us groceries, dropped us off at home and then he & Bekah left for Allegheny Hospital. We made the heart wrenching decision to stay home & self isolate. Did not want to take the chance of exposing Jake or his family to the virus.
Now three days later, Jake is still in ICU but improving and we're on the phone lots but still isolated.
What a strange blessing that we were on our way home when Jake fell...but can't be with him.
Life is so full of twist & turns. Our trips increase them making our lives richer, more fulfilling & exciting and open our eyes & hearts to many places & people in this increasingly shrinking world!
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Monday, March 16, 2020
Friday, March 13, 2020
Just landed in Detroit
Made it to Detroit! We're planning to self quarantine. You can call us😊
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Wednesday, March 11, 2020
Update 40
Not much news here in Botswana...cows, goats & sheep are grazing on the side & medium of the A-1 highway, kids are hauling overstuffed backpacks to & from school, barbers & small time vendors are trying to keep cool in their make-shift shops, gas attendants carefully are cleaning windshields & pumping gas, people (almost all black) are shopping in the new malls, chicken & corn is grilling over the 1/2 barrel fire pits, mamas with babies strapped on their backs walk under umbrellas, dogs are outside barking, cells phones are everywhere, pot holes & speed bumps are slowing down traffic, nice houses are peeking over cement & electric fences, kids are rolling tires, termite mounds are growing, workers are hoeing in the corn fields, clothes are drying on the line, outhouse stand ready for use, cars are being washed under shade screens...all under a blazing sun.
It seems in stark contrast to what we see when we check the news in USA....election frenzy, stock market plummeting & Coronavirus exploding. Though we've tried to distance ourselves...how much farther away can we be??...we can no longer deny the chance of not being able to return and/or be quarantine in who knows where...if increasing each day. With just two weeks left...our plans to see Victoria Falls & visit Chobe Game Park...we're calling it quits and making a dash for home. We're leaving 3/12 & will hopefully be home 3/13...yup that's Friday the 13th. It's always been a lucky day for us...the day our 3rd was born.
We spend our last couple days with Em, at the day care center & then took a long drive. Really not much else to do around here. (No where else we've been has so little to do in it's capital city...even the locals don't have recommendations.)
It's been an amazing two months. Who could ask for more?!?!
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It seems in stark contrast to what we see when we check the news in USA....election frenzy, stock market plummeting & Coronavirus exploding. Though we've tried to distance ourselves...how much farther away can we be??...we can no longer deny the chance of not being able to return and/or be quarantine in who knows where...if increasing each day. With just two weeks left...our plans to see Victoria Falls & visit Chobe Game Park...we're calling it quits and making a dash for home. We're leaving 3/12 & will hopefully be home 3/13...yup that's Friday the 13th. It's always been a lucky day for us...the day our 3rd was born.
We spend our last couple days with Em, at the day care center & then took a long drive. Really not much else to do around here. (No where else we've been has so little to do in it's capital city...even the locals don't have recommendations.)
It's been an amazing two months. Who could ask for more?!?!
Sent from my iPhone
Update 39
It's been a true gift to spend time with Em. Last Friday night we again went out to eat together. Em shared much of her story and ways God has spoken to her. It is quite moving. Sat night we went to her apartment, ate pizza & heard more of her story. Sun a.m. we listed to Em play keyboard for the praise team in her church. After church, the congregation played field day games & gobbled down lots of pizza while visiting.
Mon a.m. we were surrounded by HS students who'd failed their exit test as Em inspired them with her words, rapping & singing. And Mon pm we relaxed together in her pool under the stars. Tuesday another dinner & rich conversation. Em's friends & co-workers often joined us giving us the opportunity to hear about their lives.
Em is vibrant, focused, talented, an enthusiastic lover of God on a mission to soften the hearts of the youth here...so they too will love God & be the force that makes Botswana a better country. Em & her friends' truly solid & deep faith is admirable. God is not abstract or distant but personal & internal to them. The love of God glows & pours out of them.
It has been an immense blessing to have had this first hand opportunity to have an inside peek at Em's passionate ministry!
Sent from my iPhone
Mon a.m. we were surrounded by HS students who'd failed their exit test as Em inspired them with her words, rapping & singing. And Mon pm we relaxed together in her pool under the stars. Tuesday another dinner & rich conversation. Em's friends & co-workers often joined us giving us the opportunity to hear about their lives.
Em is vibrant, focused, talented, an enthusiastic lover of God on a mission to soften the hearts of the youth here...so they too will love God & be the force that makes Botswana a better country. Em & her friends' truly solid & deep faith is admirable. God is not abstract or distant but personal & internal to them. The love of God glows & pours out of them.
It has been an immense blessing to have had this first hand opportunity to have an inside peek at Em's passionate ministry!
Sent from my iPhone
Monday, March 9, 2020
Imagine-Roger
To understand how the blacks in South Africa must feel, I decided to try to think of how I would feel if the situation were reversed.
Just try to imagine
...healthy black women and men, dressed properly for their workout, jogging or biking along the roads to keep themselves in good physical condition.
...hundreds of white people walking along the roadside going to work service jobs ( primarily serving black people) that pay too little for them to afford a car or bike to get to work.
..the blacks driving expensive BMWs and Range Rovers as they pass the hundreds of whites who cannot afford a car.
... those same expensive cars pulling into service stations where numerous whites, with smiles on their faces, jump to fill the tank, check the tires and wash all of the windows.
...white people politely serving and hostessing at nice restaurants that are filled with only black people, then walking home to fix a simple meal for their own family.
...numerous whites using grub hoes and weed whips to "mow" the unending roadsides.
...groups of white manual laborers taking orders from just one black man, their boss, who graciously lets them ride in the back of his pickup when he picks them up for work.
...white women walking along the road to get to work where they will clean, cook, launder, etc. at BnBs and hotels, so their black owners can make a profit....white people politely serving and hostessing at nice restaurants that are filled with only black people, then walking home to fix a simple meal for their own family.
...numerous whites using grub hoes and weed whips to "mow" the unending roadsides.
...groups of white manual laborers taking orders from just one black man, their boss, who graciously lets them ride in the back of his pickup when he picks them up for work.
...the privileged, wealthy blacks surrounding their homes with electric fences, walls, bars, gates, etc. to protect themselves and their property from poor whites.
...those same blacks complaining that their country is worse every day and they don't see any possible positive outcome for their country.
Roger
—Fortunately, we have found Botswana to be very different from S.A...
Wealth from diamond mines boosts the economy, and decades of relatively corrupt-free government results in a wealthy country. Nice stores, restaurants, and many more businesses are common here in Gaborone. All busy with well dressed and polite black shoppers. One of the safest countries in Africa.
Franshoek-Roger
We stayed with a young couple at their farm in Franschhoek, S.A.—
wine country. They have three small children and live in a rural area. The farm has been in her family since the 1600's. For the first time in South Africa there were no security fences around the house, no bars on windows, and no alarm system. We made sure to lock the door and also close the blinds! We are not sure if they are being careless, or maybe they feel that they are in a more secure area.
The harvest of apples was the job of the day with about twenty black men and women workers climbing ladders, crawling under trees, filling bags, and generally laboring to fill crates on a trailer.
They appeared to be enjoying the camaraderie of working together.
Christeli told us about one of their workers who recently came to her very upset and crying. There was not enough money
(about $50 U.S.) to pay the school fees so her child could not go. Christeli assured us that she and her husband had "sorted it out" so the crisis was averted. She went on to say that "they" just don't have the ability to plan for future expenses. She told us that South Africa has two distinct socio-economic groups (seems black and white to me!).
It is clear that those two groups have far different expectations for the way they will live and the work they will do.
wine country. They have three small children and live in a rural area. The farm has been in her family since the 1600's. For the first time in South Africa there were no security fences around the house, no bars on windows, and no alarm system. We made sure to lock the door and also close the blinds! We are not sure if they are being careless, or maybe they feel that they are in a more secure area.
The harvest of apples was the job of the day with about twenty black men and women workers climbing ladders, crawling under trees, filling bags, and generally laboring to fill crates on a trailer.
They appeared to be enjoying the camaraderie of working together.
Christeli told us about one of their workers who recently came to her very upset and crying. There was not enough money
(about $50 U.S.) to pay the school fees so her child could not go. Christeli assured us that she and her husband had "sorted it out" so the crisis was averted. She went on to say that "they" just don't have the ability to plan for future expenses. She told us that South Africa has two distinct socio-economic groups (seems black and white to me!).
It is clear that those two groups have far different expectations for the way they will live and the work they will do.
Sunday, March 8, 2020
Update 38
First thing this a.m., we joined Em for a prayer meeting & went on a tour of the Youth For Christ center. It's a big hall with pool table, table tennis, foosball, darts, etc that opens for the local youth. Em's office door needed a bit of adjusting so guess who did it?? Then Em led us to the Tapologo Day Care Center we'd visited before & she took off to visit a friend with cancer. The kids were all in a big circle with bowls of porridge on their laps. After an enthusiastic prayer, they gobbled down their food literally scraping their bowls clean. If another kid detected even a morsel left, he handed the bowl back. When all finished, I went out to play with them. Rog has brought Em's tools as he knew some door handles needed fixing. He soon discovered he needed to go buy new ones. We talked to Potlako, head teacher, asking if there was nothing else they needed. She hesitantly pointed to a small fan taped together. We started a list. Could we maybe buy a heater for each class too as winter mornings are very cold? The cook needs a place to store her "clean clothes" she keeps here. And the only adapter they have is her own. We said we'd see what we could find & started for our car. Potlaka caught up with us and in a timid voice asked if maybe she could go too. Grinning from ear to ear, she hopped in the front seat, put down her window & giggled when the wind blew in her face. When Rog accidentally turned the wipers on instead of the blinkers (imagine he's on the wrong side, shifting with his left hand & in a rented car), she busted out belly laughing! Potlako walks 1 hour & 45 minutes to & from school every day so I can only imagine how fun it was to ride in a car.
We stopped at the hardware & blding stores in the close village but found little. As we were walking back to our car, a man shouted at Potlako & she laughed. I asked her what he said...you too good to say hi to me when you're walking with a white lady??
Em had told us about a mall ten miles away. There we found everything! Potlako went into every store assessing the fans & heaters. I actually think she just wanted to be in each store...she'd never been to this mall. We purchased 2 large fans, 2 heaters, large bin, adapters, door knob & a bag of bubblegum suckers. Then we crammed it into our tiny car. Since it was after noon, we bought some meat pies & cold drinks. Potlako said she felt like she was shopping with her Mom & Dad. She was in heaven all the way back . Rog fixed the door handles & I set up the fans. When I turned one on, the kids started dancing & singing!
After Rog finished, he suggested driving the cook home, then came back for Potlako, her asst & me. It was a lucky day for the day care, those 3 ladies...and us too!!
Giving is exhilarating!!!
Sent from my iPhone
We stopped at the hardware & blding stores in the close village but found little. As we were walking back to our car, a man shouted at Potlako & she laughed. I asked her what he said...you too good to say hi to me when you're walking with a white lady??
Em had told us about a mall ten miles away. There we found everything! Potlako went into every store assessing the fans & heaters. I actually think she just wanted to be in each store...she'd never been to this mall. We purchased 2 large fans, 2 heaters, large bin, adapters, door knob & a bag of bubblegum suckers. Then we crammed it into our tiny car. Since it was after noon, we bought some meat pies & cold drinks. Potlako said she felt like she was shopping with her Mom & Dad. She was in heaven all the way back . Rog fixed the door handles & I set up the fans. When I turned one on, the kids started dancing & singing!
After Rog finished, he suggested driving the cook home, then came back for Potlako, her asst & me. It was a lucky day for the day care, those 3 ladies...and us too!!
Giving is exhilarating!!!
Sent from my iPhone
Saturday, March 7, 2020
Why the high unemployment rate? -Roger
Why the high unemployment rate? Searching for an answer, I found buried near the bottom of a list of possible reasons... "Cultural Differences".
Maybe it should be closer to the top of the list!
If one tribe was stronger, the men would take women and girls from neighboring tribes. In Lesotho they told us that the girls' hut was placed close to the entry of their village. This would enable enemies to take the girls immediately upon invading the village. That might buy them some time, allowing them to defend themselves. It was not seen as a bad thing if the girls were taken by another group because the girls would then be married.
Living in a tribe probably did not prepare the men to become role model fathers for modern families. The chief of the tribe that formed Lesotho had 140 wives. Male visitors to his compound were allowed to visit his wives but were required to leave their walking stick by the front entrance of the hut while inside. Their expectations were far different from expectations today.
Today, husbands are expected to be faithful and work to provide for their wife and children. The men have not had role models that showed, through their example, the way to be faithful providers.
Women in Botswana told us that it is common for a husband to have four girlfriends.
In Mozambique we were told that blacks think they are not stealing if they take something that is not needed or anything that is not being used. Also the mindset that one person shouldn't have more wealth than the others in the tribe leads to the idea that you should share what you have if you have more than others in your tribe. So...if you are not sharing what you have then others may take some of what you have.
Years ago while in Kenya, we were told that to be greedy is considered to be the worst possible trait. In that culture you must give what you have if someone comes to you in need. This is how they care for all in their tribe. It also prevents one individual from becoming rich and being "above", or better than the rest. Troubles are shared by all and no one gets a free pass. So why should they work and make a lot of money? They will just feel obligated to turn it over to others who need it more than they do. Why take responsibility for a wife and children? The community of women have always managed together to do what needs to be done.
Sent from my iPhone
Maybe it should be closer to the top of the list!
If one tribe was stronger, the men would take women and girls from neighboring tribes. In Lesotho they told us that the girls' hut was placed close to the entry of their village. This would enable enemies to take the girls immediately upon invading the village. That might buy them some time, allowing them to defend themselves. It was not seen as a bad thing if the girls were taken by another group because the girls would then be married.
Living in a tribe probably did not prepare the men to become role model fathers for modern families. The chief of the tribe that formed Lesotho had 140 wives. Male visitors to his compound were allowed to visit his wives but were required to leave their walking stick by the front entrance of the hut while inside. Their expectations were far different from expectations today.
Today, husbands are expected to be faithful and work to provide for their wife and children. The men have not had role models that showed, through their example, the way to be faithful providers.
Women in Botswana told us that it is common for a husband to have four girlfriends.
In Mozambique we were told that blacks think they are not stealing if they take something that is not needed or anything that is not being used. Also the mindset that one person shouldn't have more wealth than the others in the tribe leads to the idea that you should share what you have if you have more than others in your tribe. So...if you are not sharing what you have then others may take some of what you have.
Years ago while in Kenya, we were told that to be greedy is considered to be the worst possible trait. In that culture you must give what you have if someone comes to you in need. This is how they care for all in their tribe. It also prevents one individual from becoming rich and being "above", or better than the rest. Troubles are shared by all and no one gets a free pass. So why should they work and make a lot of money? They will just feel obligated to turn it over to others who need it more than they do. Why take responsibility for a wife and children? The community of women have always managed together to do what needs to be done.
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, March 6, 2020
Rich whites, poor blacks-Roger
Whites in South Africa now make up only 9% of the population, but own about 70% of the land and nearly all of the businesses and large modern homes.
About 46% of blacks are unemployed.
Those that are employed can be replaced quickly if they express dissatisfaction with the wage they are offered. Wage slavery keeps the black population under the control of whites. When a person's livelihood depends on wages, and their dependence is total and immediate, they have few options.
It is not unusual to see a black person defer to whites in small but significant ways. Looking toward the ground when meeting on the sidewalk... waiting to let us pass first...bowing their heads to show "respect". It feels like their role is similar to that of blacks in America before the Civil Rights Act was passed.
Also, we have noticed that the blacks who work as maids or gardeners often are treated as second class citizens. We are told their names when they first appear for work, but we are not introduced to them. It seems that we are not expected to speak with them. Certainly we do not feel encouraged to ask them about their family or any issues that concern them.
Is this a carryover from apartheid (separation of the races)?
One white South African told me that he expects much of world will look like South Africa within 30 years...with the wealthy living in gated, guarded communities surrounded by poor communities which will provide services to the rich.
It does not seem right that the blacks here are caught in a system where they have so little opportunity to have a better life.
It isn't right that they earn so little that they have to walk while expensive cars pass by them.
It isn't right that they constantly struggle to pay school fees, doctor bills, and grocery bills.
It is just wrong that their government is corrupt and fails to provide necessary services while the leaders pocket huge sums of money.
Thursday, March 5, 2020
Update 37
Hello Gaborone, Botswana! Why here?? Rog went to the same school with Hannah Hardy from K to EMU Masters Degree...and her daughter Em is here. We couldn't be this close & not stop in to spend a bit of time with her. She is part of Youth for Christ and does a variety of ministries. Em lined us up with an Airbnb near her & we quickly settled in, picked up a few groceries & made plans to help at a day care. The day care/preschool is for orphans in foster settings & disadvantaged kids. When we arrived, the 40+ kids swarmed us and after a quick tour, we were the newest attraction on the playground. When recess was over, we each joined one of their classes. I got the opportunity to read aloud...twisted my arm...so I read Hands, Hands, Fingers, Thumbs which was on their library shelf. Kids & I loved drum, ditty, drumming!!
On the way back to our Airbnb, we made plans to meet up with Em to go to the movie theater we noticed nearby. After getting (rather bland) popcorn, we sat down in a modern theater empty except for us and thoroughly enjoyed Little Women.
Day 2 we hopped in the car with Em and another Youth for Christ gal fro US, Kelsey. We visited a couple patients who'd suffer spinal injuries, then co-led an Alpha discussion group and finally helped at a tutoring session. All great opportunities to spend time with the locals.
We treated the girls to dinner at the restaurant of their choice, Simply Asian.
Throughout the day, we did lots of reminiscing about experiences we had with Em's parents and her life in Dexter.
Pretty cool day!
Sent from my iPhone
On the way back to our Airbnb, we made plans to meet up with Em to go to the movie theater we noticed nearby. After getting (rather bland) popcorn, we sat down in a modern theater empty except for us and thoroughly enjoyed Little Women.
Day 2 we hopped in the car with Em and another Youth for Christ gal fro US, Kelsey. We visited a couple patients who'd suffer spinal injuries, then co-led an Alpha discussion group and finally helped at a tutoring session. All great opportunities to spend time with the locals.
We treated the girls to dinner at the restaurant of their choice, Simply Asian.
Throughout the day, we did lots of reminiscing about experiences we had with Em's parents and her life in Dexter.
Pretty cool day!
Sent from my iPhone
Viewpoints of two white South Africans-Roger
(1) Every white South African that we have met so far likes President Trump. One even said that he would welcome Trump to lead their country if we don't want him.
He also said that their current all black government is led by incapable leaders who cannot be educated. He said that the blacks are not intelligent and cannot learn because they are descended from monkeys/apes. Whites are not like them because we are descended from Adam and Eve.
He continued...
The government ignores maintenance of infrastructure leading to load shedding and poor roads. Load shedding is the scheduled shut off of electric power to entire sections of the country for hours at a time (a major inconvenience as well potential cover for criminals).
Good jobs are scarce and available positions go to unqualified blacks while young whites remain unemployed. Older whites have almost no chance of finding jobs.
At school, black students pass with 30% correct.
Reverse discrimination on many fronts.
The blacks only want to do what they have to do for today.
There is no effort to make something for the future.
If given some land they will only work a small area close to their home and leave the rest or rent it to a white farmer.
Trash is becoming a problem because "they" are not taught to pick up after themselves. So they leave bottles, cans, papers, etc. wherever.
This is not the way South Africa used to be.
Blacks would tell you that they were better off under Apartheid.
Most young whites plan to leave the country. There is no future here for them.
The country is getting worse every day. Many thousands of South Africans have moved to Australia or America to escape the downward spiral of their country.
He went on to say that if his home is given to blacks , he will meet them at the door with a gun and take out as many of them as possible before he dies.
I asked if there is any way he could foresee a solution to the problems here.
He then said that he does not expect any improvement in the situation.
(2) Our hostess in Bethlehem (of all places!) expressed her anger over the current situation in S.A. At one point she caught herself and said, " It is horrible to talk this way but they just breed and breed...it's the one pleasure they have."
As guests in her home, it would have been rude for us to express our feelings as that would have, without a doubt, led to a political discussion leaving all involved feeling at odds.
We had been wondering how the white South Africans were feeling about the changes in their country since the end of Apartheid and had planned to bring up the topic at an opportune time. We welcomed her feelings as a learning opportunity, but do not agree with her.
He also said that their current all black government is led by incapable leaders who cannot be educated. He said that the blacks are not intelligent and cannot learn because they are descended from monkeys/apes. Whites are not like them because we are descended from Adam and Eve.
He continued...
The government ignores maintenance of infrastructure leading to load shedding and poor roads. Load shedding is the scheduled shut off of electric power to entire sections of the country for hours at a time (a major inconvenience as well potential cover for criminals).
Good jobs are scarce and available positions go to unqualified blacks while young whites remain unemployed. Older whites have almost no chance of finding jobs.
At school, black students pass with 30% correct.
Reverse discrimination on many fronts.
The blacks only want to do what they have to do for today.
There is no effort to make something for the future.
If given some land they will only work a small area close to their home and leave the rest or rent it to a white farmer.
Trash is becoming a problem because "they" are not taught to pick up after themselves. So they leave bottles, cans, papers, etc. wherever.
This is not the way South Africa used to be.
Blacks would tell you that they were better off under Apartheid.
Most young whites plan to leave the country. There is no future here for them.
The country is getting worse every day. Many thousands of South Africans have moved to Australia or America to escape the downward spiral of their country.
He went on to say that if his home is given to blacks , he will meet them at the door with a gun and take out as many of them as possible before he dies.
I asked if there is any way he could foresee a solution to the problems here.
He then said that he does not expect any improvement in the situation.
(2) Our hostess in Bethlehem (of all places!) expressed her anger over the current situation in S.A. At one point she caught herself and said, " It is horrible to talk this way but they just breed and breed...it's the one pleasure they have."
As guests in her home, it would have been rude for us to express our feelings as that would have, without a doubt, led to a political discussion leaving all involved feeling at odds.
We had been wondering how the white South Africans were feeling about the changes in their country since the end of Apartheid and had planned to bring up the topic at an opportune time. We welcomed her feelings as a learning opportunity, but do not agree with her.
Cape Town pics
Sent from my iPhoneCape Town & tray mat at McD...note the picture of field workers gathering potatoes.
Update 36
After spending one more day at a "proper beach" (as the locals call a gorgeous beach), we spent our very last day in South Africa in Cape Town visiting the Mandela Museum, Cape Town fort found while digging a foundation & soaking up the energetic feel of Cape Town.
Rog & I leave SA having marveled at the beauty & loved the people but also turned with feelings about the poverty & obvious difference between the blacks & whites...and SA's future. We feel guilty knowing we were only part of the white's world as all our Airbnbs have been owned by the whites & cleaned by the blacks. As hard as we tried, we didn't find a way to be part of the blacks ' world.
Ironically, when I needed to swap out the book I'd finished reading at one of our Airbnbs, The Help by Stockett was staring me in the face. It's about the black/white situation in Mississippi in the early 60's...or it could of been in SA in 2020. It is written from the blacks' point of view. Reading The Help opens a window to how the blacks might be feeling here.
Rog has been writing lots about this subject so I'll let him go in depth and try to capture our experiences and struggles to be a tourist here.
Sent from my iPhone
Rog & I leave SA having marveled at the beauty & loved the people but also turned with feelings about the poverty & obvious difference between the blacks & whites...and SA's future. We feel guilty knowing we were only part of the white's world as all our Airbnbs have been owned by the whites & cleaned by the blacks. As hard as we tried, we didn't find a way to be part of the blacks ' world.
Ironically, when I needed to swap out the book I'd finished reading at one of our Airbnbs, The Help by Stockett was staring me in the face. It's about the black/white situation in Mississippi in the early 60's...or it could of been in SA in 2020. It is written from the blacks' point of view. Reading The Help opens a window to how the blacks might be feeling here.
Rog has been writing lots about this subject so I'll let him go in depth and try to capture our experiences and struggles to be a tourist here.
Sent from my iPhone
Wednesday, March 4, 2020
Viewpoints of two black South Africans-Roger
(1) We stopped to talk with a young black man who watched our car while we were on the beach. He has been working with another man for four years watching cars in a small lot. About 10 cars might park here when the weather is nice. From the lot, people can walk down a few steps to a beautiful beach on the Indian Ocean.
When we asked about his day he said that it was a good day because the weather improved and people came to park in the lot, so he would be able to eat! There is no set charge, or even any requirement to pay him. He watches the cars and some give him a few Rand. 14 Rand= $1
He told us that he was very young when Apartheid ended but he has heard stories about what life was like before it ended. He thinks life here is better now, but everything is very expensive. When Jane asked if he was happy living in South Africa, he said that he had never been anywhere else so he doesn't know if he would be happier in another place.
He asked, "How do you define the word, "success"?
Then he told us he is Christian and he reads his Bible every day and prays, but seldom goes to church. He thinks success is doing some good for others each day and feeling at peace with your life when you go to bed each night.
He also asked, "Which man will enter the Kingdom of God?"
... A man who earns a million dollars a month and gives half of it to the needy, or a man who prays and reads his Bible and goes to church often.
How would you have responded?
——
(2) Walking back from viewing the African Penguins, we stopped to get a coke. The owner of a very nice seaside house had transformed the lower level patio into a shady spot where tourists could get an ice cream or a drink. Jane asked the black clerk if the house was his house. Just the thought that he might be the owner made him laugh. Then he told us that someday his dream is to have such a fine house as this.
How far away is his dream?
It seems that his dream cannot be realized without a revolution in expectations. How could a black parent tell a child that he/she can be whatever they want to be when the everyday reality of black service and labor provides such a powerful message to their children for what they should expect in life. This division has been entrenched in their society so long that it is simply accepted.
When we asked about his day he said that it was a good day because the weather improved and people came to park in the lot, so he would be able to eat! There is no set charge, or even any requirement to pay him. He watches the cars and some give him a few Rand. 14 Rand= $1
He told us that he was very young when Apartheid ended but he has heard stories about what life was like before it ended. He thinks life here is better now, but everything is very expensive. When Jane asked if he was happy living in South Africa, he said that he had never been anywhere else so he doesn't know if he would be happier in another place.
He asked, "How do you define the word, "success"?
Then he told us he is Christian and he reads his Bible every day and prays, but seldom goes to church. He thinks success is doing some good for others each day and feeling at peace with your life when you go to bed each night.
He also asked, "Which man will enter the Kingdom of God?"
... A man who earns a million dollars a month and gives half of it to the needy, or a man who prays and reads his Bible and goes to church often.
How would you have responded?
——
(2) Walking back from viewing the African Penguins, we stopped to get a coke. The owner of a very nice seaside house had transformed the lower level patio into a shady spot where tourists could get an ice cream or a drink. Jane asked the black clerk if the house was his house. Just the thought that he might be the owner made him laugh. Then he told us that someday his dream is to have such a fine house as this.
How far away is his dream?
It seems that his dream cannot be realized without a revolution in expectations. How could a black parent tell a child that he/she can be whatever they want to be when the everyday reality of black service and labor provides such a powerful message to their children for what they should expect in life. This division has been entrenched in their society so long that it is simply accepted.
Tuesday, March 3, 2020
A Swiss South African and his maid-Roger
The previous message was also By Roger.
Our Swiss host retired and built his beautiful house in Kleinmond. He invited us to visit with him for awhile after we got settled into our room. To our surprise he included his black maid, who was a woman from Zimbabwe. She shared some snacks and wine at the table with us and joined the conversation (first time this has happened!).
She expressed her opinions about the black South Africans (lazy, destroying all that is given to them, etc.) and also told us that the government of South Africa actually gives their poor blacks a house, but they often rent the home to blacks who come to S.A. from other countries. Having rented out their house, they then move to one of the "townships" where they construct a hut using corrugated metal and plywood. We have seen many of these townships...densely packed, no facilities except for a few port a potties, no shade. They appear to be a miserable place to live.
Our host then told us why he had a "for sale" sign in front of his house. He is concerned that the government might expropriate his house. If that should happen he will get nothing and will have to leave. Someone else will get his house. He hopes to sell his house to an investor, then rent it back and continue to live there. He thinks the government is terrible(corruption, bribery, cronyism, etc.). They are mismanaging everything very badly causing deterioration of infrastructure and more. The country is getting worse every day.
The government also allows farmers to be tortured and even killed with no consequence for the killers. The land is then taken by the government and given to black South Africans, but no legal title to land is transferred. Withe no collateral thee is no way to get $ to operate the farm so most of it sits idle and no crop is produced. The farm fails. He thinks the goal is for the government to gain control of the land and nice homes that are now mostly owned by whites. Then they will realize their real objective... a Communist country.
He also told us that the Chinese have been offering to help many countries in Africa in order to gain financial benefits. They offer to build roads, airports, hotels, and ports; and they bring their own workers to do the construction. When it is time to pay for the work, there is no money to pay them so they take payment in the form of trade deals and agreements that guarantee access to valuable minerals rights. The U.S. is missing the boat in Africa as China gets access to minerals and resources that will be needed for the future.
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Our Swiss host retired and built his beautiful house in Kleinmond. He invited us to visit with him for awhile after we got settled into our room. To our surprise he included his black maid, who was a woman from Zimbabwe. She shared some snacks and wine at the table with us and joined the conversation (first time this has happened!).
She expressed her opinions about the black South Africans (lazy, destroying all that is given to them, etc.) and also told us that the government of South Africa actually gives their poor blacks a house, but they often rent the home to blacks who come to S.A. from other countries. Having rented out their house, they then move to one of the "townships" where they construct a hut using corrugated metal and plywood. We have seen many of these townships...densely packed, no facilities except for a few port a potties, no shade. They appear to be a miserable place to live.
Our host then told us why he had a "for sale" sign in front of his house. He is concerned that the government might expropriate his house. If that should happen he will get nothing and will have to leave. Someone else will get his house. He hopes to sell his house to an investor, then rent it back and continue to live there. He thinks the government is terrible(corruption, bribery, cronyism, etc.). They are mismanaging everything very badly causing deterioration of infrastructure and more. The country is getting worse every day.
The government also allows farmers to be tortured and even killed with no consequence for the killers. The land is then taken by the government and given to black South Africans, but no legal title to land is transferred. Withe no collateral thee is no way to get $ to operate the farm so most of it sits idle and no crop is produced. The farm fails. He thinks the goal is for the government to gain control of the land and nice homes that are now mostly owned by whites. Then they will realize their real objective... a Communist country.
He also told us that the Chinese have been offering to help many countries in Africa in order to gain financial benefits. They offer to build roads, airports, hotels, and ports; and they bring their own workers to do the construction. When it is time to pay for the work, there is no money to pay them so they take payment in the form of trade deals and agreements that guarantee access to valuable minerals rights. The U.S. is missing the boat in Africa as China gets access to minerals and resources that will be needed for the future.
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Visitors to South africa
We came to see this country . We have enjoyed the scenery, the oceans, the mountains, the farms, and more. The friendliness of the people has been a real treat. Service station attendants, waitresses, and clerks have been pleasant and helpful.
Often our hosts at BnB's have invited us to share a drink, a snack, or a braii (cookout). They have happily shown around their yards, gardens, and farms. Many have given us helpful suggestions for places to visit or favorite spots to eat. All have been welcoming and generous, often asking if there is anything at all they might do for us. Several have asked us to tell our American friends to visit and enjoy all South Africa has to offer. Like most people we meet, they are just trying to do their best.
Nearly all of them are greatly troubled by the changes in South African government. Many have shared their concerns for the future... some have told us horrendous stories of torture and murder. The current situation is the result of decisions made long ago (mainly apartheid) and the carryover of attitudes and behaviors related to those decisions.
The whites here appear to be "protected" from robbery or worse by numerous strands of electric fence surrounding their property, barbed wire fence, automatic gates for vehicle entry, bars protecting every window and door, security lights, and alarm systems. These measures are required for wealthy white people to have a "normal" life here. Stories of attacks and murders prove that the safety net doesn't always work.
The black people here do much of the manual work...
field labor, clerks, waitresses, gas station attendants, etc.
With too little income to purchase a car, we see many of them walking along the roads or hitching a ride (we have been warned not to pick up anyone or even stop if a car has been in an accident as it could be a set up to attack us).
Restaurants and nice shopping malls as well as very clean and well stocked grocery stores are frequented almost exclusively by whites, while blacks sweep the floor, clerk, weigh fruit, and watch the parking lot.
Often our hosts at BnB's have invited us to share a drink, a snack, or a braii (cookout). They have happily shown around their yards, gardens, and farms. Many have given us helpful suggestions for places to visit or favorite spots to eat. All have been welcoming and generous, often asking if there is anything at all they might do for us. Several have asked us to tell our American friends to visit and enjoy all South Africa has to offer. Like most people we meet, they are just trying to do their best.
Nearly all of them are greatly troubled by the changes in South African government. Many have shared their concerns for the future... some have told us horrendous stories of torture and murder. The current situation is the result of decisions made long ago (mainly apartheid) and the carryover of attitudes and behaviors related to those decisions.
The whites here appear to be "protected" from robbery or worse by numerous strands of electric fence surrounding their property, barbed wire fence, automatic gates for vehicle entry, bars protecting every window and door, security lights, and alarm systems. These measures are required for wealthy white people to have a "normal" life here. Stories of attacks and murders prove that the safety net doesn't always work.
The black people here do much of the manual work...
field labor, clerks, waitresses, gas station attendants, etc.
With too little income to purchase a car, we see many of them walking along the roads or hitching a ride (we have been warned not to pick up anyone or even stop if a car has been in an accident as it could be a set up to attack us).
Restaurants and nice shopping malls as well as very clean and well stocked grocery stores are frequented almost exclusively by whites, while blacks sweep the floor, clerk, weigh fruit, and watch the parking lot.
Saturday, February 29, 2020
Update 35
Headed east out of Cape Town passing nice home for several miles and then BANG...shanties as far as we could see! Correlated metal shacks with satellite dishes, ports potties, elec lines, clothes handing on lines & fences and an assortment of vehicle parts. Just as fast as it came into view...it went out and back to nice homes. Like a line was drawn.
We were headed to Hermanus because several people recommended it. They didn't warn us about the mountain passes with cliffs so close to the edge of the road, Mr. Careful (Rog's nickname) was clenching the steering wheel & his teeth.
Hermanus could be nicknamed The Freshly Painted White Town...it was quite lovely. We ate overlooking the ocean, walked the beach & then sauntered through the local market. Our Airbnb was close by in Kleinmond with Ernest as our host. He was originally from Switzerland & loved talking & showing off his fabulous garden & home he built 7 years ago.
Then Ernest invited to join him & his maid, Irene served us sliced wraps, chips & wine...then she joined us. She obviously is always included as she freely added to our conversation. She's from Zimbabwe and told us how it had once been a rich & wonderful place to live until the government became corrupt. They expropriated the farm land and there was no law & order...only bribes. Irene sees SA headed in that direction & Ernest agreed which is why he has a For Sale sign in front of his house. He thinks SA gov't might expropriate his house.
Irene & Ernest spent almost 2 hours detailing what they saw happening in SA & other African countries. And we again heard how China is cleverly getting ownership of mineral & fishing rights. Ernest said USA blew the opportunity to invest in Africa where so many resources exist. What an earful we got!
Next day we headed to Franschhoek...heart of wine country. We hopped an on/off wine trolley & visited 3 farms sampling as we went. Well, Rog sampled & I sipped & made faces! I though...Monica, Lisa, Ann & my other wine loving friends should be here...not me! But I did love seeing the manicured & gorgeously landscaped farms. Our Airbnb was in a cottage on a working farm...though not as grand as the wine farms we'd visited...it was very homey & on the edge of an apple orchard. The orchard had already been harvested, the host invited us to pick as many apples as we could find. That was a challenge for Rog & an offer he couldn't refuse. He found lots! He baked up several that night & we'll be eating apples for a while!
It was time to get back to the beach, so we headed toward the west coast & landed in Yzerfontein where walked the 16 Mile Beach (not all of it). and we watched an endless sunset. Funny Fact: our host has 2 small ordinary looking wild birds trained to come when she calls. They hopped in & out of our suite...and then flew off over the ocean & coming back to eat on our host's kitchen counter.
We're in Langebaan today...not such a nice beach but that crystal aqua water is beautiful sight. Saw over 50 para-surfboarders taking advantage of the winds. We're be going to Patarnoster tomorrow. It suppose to be a quaint little fishing village...though we heard the fishing is not good there anymore...and told not to carry anything valuable.
Tonight we're checking out possible flights to Botswana...thinking we want to meet up with Em Liddiard (our classmate Hannah's daughter) ASAP just in case we think it wise to come home early due to the Coronavirus.
Hoping that's not the case, but better safe than sorry.
Sent from my iPhone
We were headed to Hermanus because several people recommended it. They didn't warn us about the mountain passes with cliffs so close to the edge of the road, Mr. Careful (Rog's nickname) was clenching the steering wheel & his teeth.
Hermanus could be nicknamed The Freshly Painted White Town...it was quite lovely. We ate overlooking the ocean, walked the beach & then sauntered through the local market. Our Airbnb was close by in Kleinmond with Ernest as our host. He was originally from Switzerland & loved talking & showing off his fabulous garden & home he built 7 years ago.
Then Ernest invited to join him & his maid, Irene served us sliced wraps, chips & wine...then she joined us. She obviously is always included as she freely added to our conversation. She's from Zimbabwe and told us how it had once been a rich & wonderful place to live until the government became corrupt. They expropriated the farm land and there was no law & order...only bribes. Irene sees SA headed in that direction & Ernest agreed which is why he has a For Sale sign in front of his house. He thinks SA gov't might expropriate his house.
Irene & Ernest spent almost 2 hours detailing what they saw happening in SA & other African countries. And we again heard how China is cleverly getting ownership of mineral & fishing rights. Ernest said USA blew the opportunity to invest in Africa where so many resources exist. What an earful we got!
Next day we headed to Franschhoek...heart of wine country. We hopped an on/off wine trolley & visited 3 farms sampling as we went. Well, Rog sampled & I sipped & made faces! I though...Monica, Lisa, Ann & my other wine loving friends should be here...not me! But I did love seeing the manicured & gorgeously landscaped farms. Our Airbnb was in a cottage on a working farm...though not as grand as the wine farms we'd visited...it was very homey & on the edge of an apple orchard. The orchard had already been harvested, the host invited us to pick as many apples as we could find. That was a challenge for Rog & an offer he couldn't refuse. He found lots! He baked up several that night & we'll be eating apples for a while!
It was time to get back to the beach, so we headed toward the west coast & landed in Yzerfontein where walked the 16 Mile Beach (not all of it). and we watched an endless sunset. Funny Fact: our host has 2 small ordinary looking wild birds trained to come when she calls. They hopped in & out of our suite...and then flew off over the ocean & coming back to eat on our host's kitchen counter.
We're in Langebaan today...not such a nice beach but that crystal aqua water is beautiful sight. Saw over 50 para-surfboarders taking advantage of the winds. We're be going to Patarnoster tomorrow. It suppose to be a quaint little fishing village...though we heard the fishing is not good there anymore...and told not to carry anything valuable.
Tonight we're checking out possible flights to Botswana...thinking we want to meet up with Em Liddiard (our classmate Hannah's daughter) ASAP just in case we think it wise to come home early due to the Coronavirus.
Hoping that's not the case, but better safe than sorry.
Sent from my iPhone
Thursday, February 27, 2020
Cape Town pics
Bo Kapp (Old Town)
Two Ocean Aquarium
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Update 34
A few days ago we hopped on a Springbok place & landed in Cape Town...so we made it to the bottom of Africa! This part of SA is very different than what we've seen so far. It's sleek, modern, neat & there's tons of things to do. Going to the Cape of Good Hope was exciting...and the ferocious winds nearly blew me off the top of the light tower! I had to hug the building & held my camera with two hands & close. We did learn that the Cape of Good Hope is NOT where the two oceans meet...that's at Cape Aquinas which is just a bit more south. Another surprise—there's penguins here! We got lots of laughs watching the African Penguins dig their nest and carry twigs to it, defend their nest & eggs by braying loudly. They sounded just like a donkey which is why their nickname is Jackass Penguins. We were tickled to see one of the babies peaked out from under it's mom. We also saw ostriches, more baboons—these eat shellfish and rock hyrax—looked a lot like woodchuck but they are the closest relative to elephants!!
Cape Town is a gigantic city where cultures mix more easily and tourist abound. We've been busy checking out lots of sights: Two Ocean Aquarium, District 6 Museum (area where blacks where expelled in 60's), Bo Kapp (Old Town), cruised the canal (where lots of seals waved at us), Kierstenbosch Gardens (so many flowers!), Scarborough Fair (think 60's & hippies) and literally top attraction: Table Mountain riding a turning 360 degree cable car. Didn't know that Table Mountain is 6x older than the Himalayas!
It's been scorching hot — 95 F —so we were glad to get to the beach too. The Atlantic Ocean here was so cold that the breeze off the water felt like an air conditioner. When the wave covered our feet...they seemed to instantly freeze!
While here, we've been staying in an Airbnb a few miles out of town. Our host, Genie & Greg invited us to dinner. He was a French Chef ...dinner scrumptious! They both love traveling so we had lots to talk about. We all agreed traveling was a great way to expand our lives & meet wonderful people! As usually happen, they bring up politics. They too saw SA as going downhill due to corruption and crime. They have chooses not to live behind a security fence & fear...but do have a security guard service & our part of a neighborhood watch. They also see China taking over much of their country. Their 20 something daughter joined us but she left right after dinner because she wanted to get up at 3 a.m. to watch the USA Democrats debate. For real! When we asked her why, she said the upcoming election was vital to what would happen in the world...she said she sure hoped Bernie Sanders would win.
Spending evenings with our hosts is truly the icing on the cake!
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Cape Town is a gigantic city where cultures mix more easily and tourist abound. We've been busy checking out lots of sights: Two Ocean Aquarium, District 6 Museum (area where blacks where expelled in 60's), Bo Kapp (Old Town), cruised the canal (where lots of seals waved at us), Kierstenbosch Gardens (so many flowers!), Scarborough Fair (think 60's & hippies) and literally top attraction: Table Mountain riding a turning 360 degree cable car. Didn't know that Table Mountain is 6x older than the Himalayas!
It's been scorching hot — 95 F —so we were glad to get to the beach too. The Atlantic Ocean here was so cold that the breeze off the water felt like an air conditioner. When the wave covered our feet...they seemed to instantly freeze!
While here, we've been staying in an Airbnb a few miles out of town. Our host, Genie & Greg invited us to dinner. He was a French Chef ...dinner scrumptious! They both love traveling so we had lots to talk about. We all agreed traveling was a great way to expand our lives & meet wonderful people! As usually happen, they bring up politics. They too saw SA as going downhill due to corruption and crime. They have chooses not to live behind a security fence & fear...but do have a security guard service & our part of a neighborhood watch. They also see China taking over much of their country. Their 20 something daughter joined us but she left right after dinner because she wanted to get up at 3 a.m. to watch the USA Democrats debate. For real! When we asked her why, she said the upcoming election was vital to what would happen in the world...she said she sure hoped Bernie Sanders would win.
Spending evenings with our hosts is truly the icing on the cake!
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, February 21, 2020
Update 33
Now we're on the South African side of the Drakenburg Mtns and in Royal Natal National Park with breathtaking views all around us. We Hike along a river full of cascading waterfalls. A brilliantly covered quail strutted down the path in front of us while singing birds hid in the bushes and a tiny red deer rested quietly in the shade. After our picnic lunch, we drove up a rocky road often escorted by baboons.
Once we left the park, we again saw lots of cows, sheep, goats, healthy crops and small villages lined with vendor shacks full of traditional rondavels (traditional round homes built with clay/mud & grass roofs).
A couple easy driving days led us to Ballito & the long sandy beaches on the Indian Ocean.
Along the way, we've been staying at Airbnb's...each unique, comfortable & with friendly hosts. In Harrismith, we stayed in a family home filled with splendid antiques & family pictures. The owners had moved into the cottage in the back after their children left. It was a good thing we arrived early as the breakfast spread that was already in our gorgeous room was enough for supper & breakfast! Another night we stayed in Mooi River with Tamra & Angus on their 1200 acre farm where they raise Angus (really) cattle, horses, pigs & sheep. In their old farm house, we sat around their massive kitchen table discussing how milking has changed & crops. We learned we were seeing sugar beans not soy beans. Also heard more about the electricity issues...they call load sharing. Angus said all the coal is being shipped out to China and for some unknown reason, the govt is making it almost impossible to put up solar panels. Imagine in this country where they sun shines most the time! Angus & Tamra have traveled lots & we all agreed traveling was a mind-stretching experience. Tamra got excited when we asked for SA trace tips! In the a.m, she handed Rog a little notebook & the two of them spent probably 2 hours making plans. After corn mush, rusk & yogurt, Tamra located us on Facebook & we said our good byes. The airbnb we're in now is in Ballito & has 10 bedrooms. It's classy & drop dead fabulous villa with a long veranda over looking the ocean. Our host & hostess, Dominque & Luther are quite amazing treating us like family from the get-go. Pouring us drinks, offering food & telling us stories & jokes as we sit in lounge chaired on the veranda. The' s invited us to a braid tonight...how can we say no?? They are the South African version of Brian & Peggy Boyce!! He keeps everyone's glass full & she prepares scrumptious food & laughs at his jokes! We spent the a.m. on the beach & the p.m. by the pool that has umbrellas built right in on both ends. Life is good!!
Sent from my iPhone
Once we left the park, we again saw lots of cows, sheep, goats, healthy crops and small villages lined with vendor shacks full of traditional rondavels (traditional round homes built with clay/mud & grass roofs).
A couple easy driving days led us to Ballito & the long sandy beaches on the Indian Ocean.
Along the way, we've been staying at Airbnb's...each unique, comfortable & with friendly hosts. In Harrismith, we stayed in a family home filled with splendid antiques & family pictures. The owners had moved into the cottage in the back after their children left. It was a good thing we arrived early as the breakfast spread that was already in our gorgeous room was enough for supper & breakfast! Another night we stayed in Mooi River with Tamra & Angus on their 1200 acre farm where they raise Angus (really) cattle, horses, pigs & sheep. In their old farm house, we sat around their massive kitchen table discussing how milking has changed & crops. We learned we were seeing sugar beans not soy beans. Also heard more about the electricity issues...they call load sharing. Angus said all the coal is being shipped out to China and for some unknown reason, the govt is making it almost impossible to put up solar panels. Imagine in this country where they sun shines most the time! Angus & Tamra have traveled lots & we all agreed traveling was a mind-stretching experience. Tamra got excited when we asked for SA trace tips! In the a.m, she handed Rog a little notebook & the two of them spent probably 2 hours making plans. After corn mush, rusk & yogurt, Tamra located us on Facebook & we said our good byes. The airbnb we're in now is in Ballito & has 10 bedrooms. It's classy & drop dead fabulous villa with a long veranda over looking the ocean. Our host & hostess, Dominque & Luther are quite amazing treating us like family from the get-go. Pouring us drinks, offering food & telling us stories & jokes as we sit in lounge chaired on the veranda. The' s invited us to a braid tonight...how can we say no?? They are the South African version of Brian & Peggy Boyce!! He keeps everyone's glass full & she prepares scrumptious food & laughs at his jokes! We spent the a.m. on the beach & the p.m. by the pool that has umbrellas built right in on both ends. Life is good!!
Sent from my iPhone
Monday, February 17, 2020
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