Update 30

Left Hanoi by a limo is headed to Halong Bay. En route we saw homes huddled together with rich green rice fields surrounding them. The rivers had lots of bamboo fishing traps in them. The part of Halong Bay we stayed in was filling up with brand new, identical buildings…some still being built…and all 90% empty! We heard some are 5 years old & have never been occupied. Also told it was Chinese $$. The town has a theme park with a gigantic roller coaster…which we didn't ride. For my Christmas & birthday present, Rog gave me a cruise so that's what we're doing now! A small boat picked us up & took us to our gorgeous cruise ship. Waiting for us was a bountiful lunch and a smiling courteous crew ready to wait on us…which would be the case for the next 3 days. With just 19 passengers on board, we got lots of attention! The weather had been foggy & chilly the last couple days but miraculously the sun showed up & cleared the skies so the water turned a brilliant turquoise and the multitude of majestic karst partially dressed in bright green foliage boldly appeared! This scene continued for all three days we cruised. Each karst with it's own unique formation, coloring & vegetation. 1,969 of them! They were formed of limestone over millions of years all the while rain & roots seeped in between the sedimentary layers causing chunks to cascade into the sea…like rock glaciers…only to dissolve so the waterways are navigable. (Which is good cause about 450 boats are doing that today and it's low season.). Legend has it that when the natives were being attacked by enemy ships, magical dragons appeared blocking the way. The dragons loved being there so much, they decided to stay. HaLong means "descending dragons." I think how much the world has change & will change …but here the stunning karst will stand victorious surrounded by the sparkling aqua sea. On Day 1 we cruised Lan Ha Bay which was much less crowded than HaLong Bay. A small boat took us to Cat Ba Nat'l Park so we could explore the Trung Trang cave. Back on our ship, we learned to make fresh spring rolls from Chef Jimmy (also our guide). Next we sat down to a humongous 5 course dinner that was way more than even Rog could eat! The presentation was clever & elaborate. After dinner, we attempted to fish for squid. One person caught one so we did see the black ink defense. We went to sleep smiling! Up early the next morning, we sat on our balcony & watched as the mist slowly lifted and the bright red sun rose. Another huge spread awaited us & soon we were off on a tiny boat that took us to the mini me of our large ship. On that we slowly cruised for 2 hours. I took way too many pictures but there were so many awesome views! Next we got dropped off at the fishing village on Cat Ba island—which is now really a tourist village. Jimmy was a forest ranger here 25 years ago on this island which was during the years they were trying to stop people from hunting the golden headed langur which is only found on this island and is on the critically endangered list. Less than 70 left. Jimmy said it was a dangerous job as the hunters didn't like being told to stop. We were served lunch (can you call 3 courses lunch??) on our mini me ship & then went kayaking in a quiet inlet to a small beach. Back on the mini me to cruise for 2 hours again. We got back in time for another 5 course dinner which included a flaming shrimp appetizer. We shared a table with a young couple from Germany. It was interesting to hear about their lives. They say Germans are not risk takers & so their economy is quite stable but not robust. We also visited with a couple (Jane & Chris Jones from Perth). We love the opportunity to meet others! Next morning, again we enjoyed our balcony time & over ate at breakfast before packing up to leave…but not before one more scrumptious 5 course brunch! We waddled off the ship at 11:30 feeling like we'd just been in a different world—one we're not normally in—not our usual traveling style…but had to admit, it was thrilling to be so pampered, surrounded by luxury & breathtaking views!