Monday, December 31, 2012
Arrived in Quito!
Hard to believe just 48 hours ago, we were putting Christmas decorations away and shoveling snow. Since then we had an easy flight to Miami and then just 4 hour flight to Quito...then stepped into a totally different world. We quickly found our hotel...a gem in it´s hay day with lots of decorative wood and gilded ceilings. Our window opened to a small courtyard and perfect view of volcanic mountains that surround this city of about 3 1\2 million people. Quito is the highest in elevation of all capital cities. We all crashed and woke up ready to explore Old Town. The city square soon filled with musicians, dancers, vendors, shoe shiners and the locals. Seeing a crowd gather, we joined in and were treated to a End of the Year parade of costumed characters...lots of them devils...frolicking down the street. How lucky! Then we were awed by the 4 tons of gold decorating the Cathedral Campania de Jesus. Ornate beyond compare. Interesting fact was since the Incas built it, it also encompassed lots of Inca symbols. We also went into a couple other Catholic churches all filled with gorgeous stain glass and unique Nativity scenes. Finally, we decided to get an overview of the whole city by taking a cable car ride up to 13, 287 ft. Now that was an amazing view! Talk about ending the day on a high!!!
Friday, December 28, 2012
Headed South
Mom and Dad are leaving tonight at 3am. I'll be updating this blog again as I receive their update email. -Bekah
Monday, March 26, 2012
Final Thoughts on China
Final Thoughts on China
This had been our hardest trip...language barrier, cold...our quick exit...but mostly seeing people in such desperate need of water, heat, education & mostly acceptance. I felt I had so little to offer and what I did was but a drop in a bucket that seemed to have holes in it. Their own determination to improve was the brightest beam of hope and witnessing that was what inspired me to do whatever I could. I won't forget the joy on the faces of the old & the love the children showered on me. I loved our team and felt each gave their all so we had accomplished the most we could.
China itself was a wonder...acient like I'd never seen or felt...the Great Wall, the Terra Cotta Warriors, the tombs, the Stone Forest. When we speak of old we say hundreds, they say thousands. And yet amidst that old are islands of very new...solar heat...bullet train... amazing roads...buildings with unique architecture. And the forest of highrise buildings going up...up...up. In China the crane (bird) stands for longevity but today it seems to mean future as they are thousands cranes (the structure) creating the new China. So many we met are hoping and looking forward to that better future. And as in all the countries we've traveled to...their crown of jewels are the people: helpful, happy, hopeful, curious, caring and so friendly to us...and the shear number of people there is hard to grasp. China may be full of walls around cities & homes, but they sure opened a warm & welcoming door for us and I'm so glad we entered!!!
This had been our hardest trip...language barrier, cold...our quick exit...but mostly seeing people in such desperate need of water, heat, education & mostly acceptance. I felt I had so little to offer and what I did was but a drop in a bucket that seemed to have holes in it. Their own determination to improve was the brightest beam of hope and witnessing that was what inspired me to do whatever I could. I won't forget the joy on the faces of the old & the love the children showered on me. I loved our team and felt each gave their all so we had accomplished the most we could.
China itself was a wonder...acient like I'd never seen or felt...the Great Wall, the Terra Cotta Warriors, the tombs, the Stone Forest. When we speak of old we say hundreds, they say thousands. And yet amidst that old are islands of very new...solar heat...bullet train... amazing roads...buildings with unique architecture. And the forest of highrise buildings going up...up...up. In China the crane (bird) stands for longevity but today it seems to mean future as they are thousands cranes (the structure) creating the new China. So many we met are hoping and looking forward to that better future. And as in all the countries we've traveled to...their crown of jewels are the people: helpful, happy, hopeful, curious, caring and so friendly to us...and the shear number of people there is hard to grasp. China may be full of walls around cities & homes, but they sure opened a warm & welcoming door for us and I'm so glad we entered!!!
21 and a quick return
Replanting Chinese Style
Chinese seem to do everything in huge numbers...it's amazing how many trees have been planted...in every nook & cranny...on the roadsides, in the medians, all around the factories, up & down the mountains. Why don't we do that in USA??
Forbidden City
26 emperors enjoyed a huge chuck of land in the middle of Beijing filled with ornate pagodas & massive halls and a beautiful garden. My favorite was the marble boat! Those emperors sure knew how to pamper themselves! It was by far the most populated tourist site we've been to with about 90% Chinese...but also we saw more Caucasians than we've seen anywhere else!
Lama Temple
The smell of insense was everywhere as many worshipers were waving handfulls of burning sticks turning to face each of the directions & then knelling in front of the Buddha. There were many side halls with graphic statues of hell, ancestors & more Buddhas. One Buddha was built in 1748 from one single trunk of white sandal wood and stood 26 meters tall!
Fresh Fish
So they we were, eating at a fairly nice Beijing restaurant...Rog spotted a fish net leaning on a tree right in front of the window & wondered why it would be there. Several nice cars were driving by...and then a bike with a tank stopped in front of the window. A man in a suit who appeared to be the restaurant owner, went outside and soon a basket of fish had been pulled from the tank, weighed & then seemed to disappear. After we finished eating, we went outside & looked around. Mystery solved. The fish had been dumped into a fish tank that was right under the restaurant... now we knew what the net was for and how they kept fish fresh! So here in the most modern of Chinese cities...we saw what we saw in the most ancient of Chinese cities!!
Mom
A surreal feeling surrounded me as I read the email in the lobby of a Beijing hotel about my Mom dying. I knew I had to go home. I said a quick prayer that I could get home quickly and withing 20 minutes we were getting into a cab that was litterally on the sidewalk in front of our hotel. Somehow the cab driver must have known we were in a hurry--though we had no way of telling him...he drove like a maniac passing everything on the right, left & even on the margin. Rog asked me to quit praying so hard. Two hours later, we were on a plane...thanks to the counter clerk & strangers that let us use their phones & computers. After we settled in...I started to chuckle as I realized that Mom had always been one to just hang up on you when she was done with a phone conversation...never wasting time to say good bye...and once again...she didn't say goodbye. Before I left for China I had teased her saying "Don't you die while I'm in China." She had answered, "Don't you make me promise you that!" And I knew, she was eager to get to Heaven and I would not have wanted her to wait any longer than she had already waited. Just 30 hours after I read the email...we were home.
Chinese seem to do everything in huge numbers...it's amazing how many trees have been planted...in every nook & cranny...on the roadsides, in the medians, all around the factories, up & down the mountains. Why don't we do that in USA??
Forbidden City
26 emperors enjoyed a huge chuck of land in the middle of Beijing filled with ornate pagodas & massive halls and a beautiful garden. My favorite was the marble boat! Those emperors sure knew how to pamper themselves! It was by far the most populated tourist site we've been to with about 90% Chinese...but also we saw more Caucasians than we've seen anywhere else!
Lama Temple
The smell of insense was everywhere as many worshipers were waving handfulls of burning sticks turning to face each of the directions & then knelling in front of the Buddha. There were many side halls with graphic statues of hell, ancestors & more Buddhas. One Buddha was built in 1748 from one single trunk of white sandal wood and stood 26 meters tall!
Fresh Fish
So they we were, eating at a fairly nice Beijing restaurant...Rog spotted a fish net leaning on a tree right in front of the window & wondered why it would be there. Several nice cars were driving by...and then a bike with a tank stopped in front of the window. A man in a suit who appeared to be the restaurant owner, went outside and soon a basket of fish had been pulled from the tank, weighed & then seemed to disappear. After we finished eating, we went outside & looked around. Mystery solved. The fish had been dumped into a fish tank that was right under the restaurant... now we knew what the net was for and how they kept fish fresh! So here in the most modern of Chinese cities...we saw what we saw in the most ancient of Chinese cities!!
Mom
A surreal feeling surrounded me as I read the email in the lobby of a Beijing hotel about my Mom dying. I knew I had to go home. I said a quick prayer that I could get home quickly and withing 20 minutes we were getting into a cab that was litterally on the sidewalk in front of our hotel. Somehow the cab driver must have known we were in a hurry--though we had no way of telling him...he drove like a maniac passing everything on the right, left & even on the margin. Rog asked me to quit praying so hard. Two hours later, we were on a plane...thanks to the counter clerk & strangers that let us use their phones & computers. After we settled in...I started to chuckle as I realized that Mom had always been one to just hang up on you when she was done with a phone conversation...never wasting time to say good bye...and once again...she didn't say goodbye. Before I left for China I had teased her saying "Don't you die while I'm in China." She had answered, "Don't you make me promise you that!" And I knew, she was eager to get to Heaven and I would not have wanted her to wait any longer than she had already waited. Just 30 hours after I read the email...we were home.
Friday, March 16, 2012
20
Hi from Beijing,
Just heard my mom fell and broke her hip...came out of surgery ok...but sure is hard not to be with her. Thank goodness my family is tight and have kept me informed and are surrounding her with their love & support...and giving her mine! Also just heard a tornado hit Dexter so anxious to find out more... Here in Beijing, the weather is cool, dry with smog in the city but once we left the city...beautiful blue skies...and the spectacular Great Wall!
Great Wall
Until you have seen the depth of Grand Canyon...you don't know deep and until you have seen the Great Wall...you don't know long. After climbing up to get on the wall, you look out and as far as you can see in both directions...there is more wall. And all around the wall, vast mountains fill the view...we were so fortunate to walk the wall on a day that the sun shone in a sparkling, clear sky...and in a place where we only saw about 30 other tourist!! We passed up the usual tourist site, went the extra 1 1/2 hour drive to reach Jingshanling. There many sections of the wall were the original bricks...difficult to walk but wondrous. We couldn't help but stop often just to soak up the view and take yet another picture...and rest as we had to climb up & down countless steps...some of which were crumbling...some gigantic. The guard towers crowned the crest of the mountains and some were two stories high giving you an awesome view...and another picture. A bit of history: the first section of the wall was built in 221 BC and the last section about 2000 years later. Small sections were built at various times and finally all connected making it 5000km long. Rebuilding actually started around 1600 AD. In spite of all the effort, expense & time...it failed to keep out the Mongols under Genghis Khan.
Attacking Mongols
We too, were attacked by the mongols! As we made our way up to the wall, two older ladies joined us, telling us they were local mongolians farmers and started asking us questions like: where are you from? (America is wonderful) how many children? (You are so fortunate and rich) how many grandchildren (You like us...we grandmas too) how old are you? (you look only 40...later others would say we looked only 30)...etc. Finally, we told them we didn't want a guide...No No they said, we are not guides...but kept pointing out this & that. When we got firm...then they tried selling us souvenirs from their backpacks...then drinks. After we said firming (but with a smile) MaoMao (No No)...they finally left. But others--all saying they were local mongolian farmers & asking the same questions & selling the same ware-- were waiting at several of the guard towers. We did feel bad that they had climbed so far...and there were so few to buy from them but...
Climbing Down
As is so often the case in China, the way up was very showy...but the way down was a dirt trail that was hardly marked & littered.
Tunnels
Almost as incredible as building the Great Wall, was building the tunnel right under the same mountains. By car, it took us about 5 minutes to go through.
Man on Train to Beijing (by Roger)
We were delivered to the railway station by the owner of our hotel to catch the 9:48 train that would pass through Ping Yao on its way to Beijing. As we were searching for our spot on the sleeper to Beijing, a man asked if we needed some help. He spoke English very well and seemed truly interested in speaking with us. We found out that he was retired from working in public health and was traveling with some of his family to Beijing. His berth was near to ours so when we woke up the next morning he sat near us and asked many questions. He was especially interested in Native Americans and what their lives were like now in America. In China their are many ethnic groups and the country seems to celebrate the differences in culture that together make up the country. He also was interested in the leprosy villages that we visited. He had taught himself to speak Esperanto (an international language that was intended to be used the way that English is now used as an international business language). He asked about the prices of many things in the U.S.-Cars, houses, food, etc. He thought that housing was too expensive in China and Mcdonald's food is not healthy and also too expensive. He was very grateful to Americans who had helped him when he got lost while in Atlanta, Ga. while attending Emery University. The people made sure he found his way back even though they had to go far out of their way to help him. When he returned to China he wrote an article about his experience and sent it to the radio station. To his surprise, they broadcast it. He was sincerely grateful and was anxious to help us in return for the help that he had received.
He also spoke about the drought in China and how the north of China is also too dry (almost no snow this year). He told us about Buddhist monks that are recruited to "work" as monks but only play the role for 8 hours a day, then spend the rest of their time in secular life (while visiting the Lama Temple in Beijing we saw monks slipping cell phones from under their robes-maybe a little distraction from their prayers?)
Christian on train to Beijing (by Roger)
A young Chinese girl in the berth below Jane told us that she is a Christian and then she started explaining Christian beliefs to our new friend. Her bag was printed in Chinese with the name of her business, Gospel Photography. She told us that it is now possible to buy a Bible in China. Apparently it is becoming more acceptable to express individual beliefs but not always advisable!
Just heard my mom fell and broke her hip...came out of surgery ok...but sure is hard not to be with her. Thank goodness my family is tight and have kept me informed and are surrounding her with their love & support...and giving her mine! Also just heard a tornado hit Dexter so anxious to find out more... Here in Beijing, the weather is cool, dry with smog in the city but once we left the city...beautiful blue skies...and the spectacular Great Wall!
Great Wall
Until you have seen the depth of Grand Canyon...you don't know deep and until you have seen the Great Wall...you don't know long. After climbing up to get on the wall, you look out and as far as you can see in both directions...there is more wall. And all around the wall, vast mountains fill the view...we were so fortunate to walk the wall on a day that the sun shone in a sparkling, clear sky...and in a place where we only saw about 30 other tourist!! We passed up the usual tourist site, went the extra 1 1/2 hour drive to reach Jingshanling. There many sections of the wall were the original bricks...difficult to walk but wondrous. We couldn't help but stop often just to soak up the view and take yet another picture...and rest as we had to climb up & down countless steps...some of which were crumbling...some gigantic. The guard towers crowned the crest of the mountains and some were two stories high giving you an awesome view...and another picture. A bit of history: the first section of the wall was built in 221 BC and the last section about 2000 years later. Small sections were built at various times and finally all connected making it 5000km long. Rebuilding actually started around 1600 AD. In spite of all the effort, expense & time...it failed to keep out the Mongols under Genghis Khan.
Attacking Mongols
We too, were attacked by the mongols! As we made our way up to the wall, two older ladies joined us, telling us they were local mongolians farmers and started asking us questions like: where are you from? (America is wonderful) how many children? (You are so fortunate and rich) how many grandchildren (You like us...we grandmas too) how old are you? (you look only 40...later others would say we looked only 30)...etc. Finally, we told them we didn't want a guide...No No they said, we are not guides...but kept pointing out this & that. When we got firm...then they tried selling us souvenirs from their backpacks...then drinks. After we said firming (but with a smile) MaoMao (No No)...they finally left. But others--all saying they were local mongolian farmers & asking the same questions & selling the same ware-- were waiting at several of the guard towers. We did feel bad that they had climbed so far...and there were so few to buy from them but...
Climbing Down
As is so often the case in China, the way up was very showy...but the way down was a dirt trail that was hardly marked & littered.
Tunnels
Almost as incredible as building the Great Wall, was building the tunnel right under the same mountains. By car, it took us about 5 minutes to go through.
Man on Train to Beijing (by Roger)
We were delivered to the railway station by the owner of our hotel to catch the 9:48 train that would pass through Ping Yao on its way to Beijing. As we were searching for our spot on the sleeper to Beijing, a man asked if we needed some help. He spoke English very well and seemed truly interested in speaking with us. We found out that he was retired from working in public health and was traveling with some of his family to Beijing. His berth was near to ours so when we woke up the next morning he sat near us and asked many questions. He was especially interested in Native Americans and what their lives were like now in America. In China their are many ethnic groups and the country seems to celebrate the differences in culture that together make up the country. He also was interested in the leprosy villages that we visited. He had taught himself to speak Esperanto (an international language that was intended to be used the way that English is now used as an international business language). He asked about the prices of many things in the U.S.-Cars, houses, food, etc. He thought that housing was too expensive in China and Mcdonald's food is not healthy and also too expensive. He was very grateful to Americans who had helped him when he got lost while in Atlanta, Ga. while attending Emery University. The people made sure he found his way back even though they had to go far out of their way to help him. When he returned to China he wrote an article about his experience and sent it to the radio station. To his surprise, they broadcast it. He was sincerely grateful and was anxious to help us in return for the help that he had received.
He also spoke about the drought in China and how the north of China is also too dry (almost no snow this year). He told us about Buddhist monks that are recruited to "work" as monks but only play the role for 8 hours a day, then spend the rest of their time in secular life (while visiting the Lama Temple in Beijing we saw monks slipping cell phones from under their robes-maybe a little distraction from their prayers?)
Christian on train to Beijing (by Roger)
A young Chinese girl in the berth below Jane told us that she is a Christian and then she started explaining Christian beliefs to our new friend. Her bag was printed in Chinese with the name of her business, Gospel Photography. She told us that it is now possible to buy a Bible in China. Apparently it is becoming more acceptable to express individual beliefs but not always advisable!
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
19
Hi from Pingyao
Last day here so we're making plans for next stops. We'll be heading out on the night train to Beijing later today, stay there 4 days, then to Sanya, Hainan for 5 days and finally to HongKong to visit my college roomie before heading home March 29. Anyways, that's the plan. Hope your plans are going well & all is good. Here's the latest with us:
Wang Family Castle
Huge, sprawling castle that housed the Wang family & servants for generations...endless archways led to unique courtyards with bedrooms all around...each area a bit higher on the mountains... with a long bridge spanning a valley...finally reaching the top where a lovely pagoda overlooked the whole castle setting. Several years ago, many of the family members who had moved away, came back for a reunion...during which as a family they decided to turn their castle into a museum to retain the virtue of their family. Most of the original furniture remains as well as numerous family photos. Two rooms were filled with family trees...one of which showed 21 generations! It also houses several art collections. Couldn't count how many rooms...and almost couldn't find our way out!
Underground Weapon Storage
After entering what appeared to be a farmer's home that was built into the mountain (just like many others in the area)...we were led into a secret, dark tunnel with only clay walls that went down about 9 meters in a maze about 250 meter long that included several traps, ambush dug outs, bamboo communication sites...all built to hid weapons. A guide was required--how else could we find our way out?? It was built over 1000 yrs ago...and since no enemy army ever came near...it was never needed but makes an interesting tourist site today!
Shuanglin Temple
Another temple filled with images of Buddha, gods and also ancestors. Can you imagine that in 1000 yrs, people would pray & light incense in front of a statue of you?? Most of these types of temples were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution so one so well preserved is rare. This one also had vivid paintings as well as the 50 armed goddess. We'd biked the 6 km to get there...so we walked through it at a slow pace amazed at how old, dusty (it's forbidden to dust) and detailed each statue was...one room alone had over 100 statues!
Chinese Helper (by Roger)
We rented bicycles and rode around Ping Yao for the day. We left the walled city for awhile to visit an ATM then returned to the old city and followed a celebrating marriage procession through part of the city (a brass band in the back of a truck blaring away while firecrackers were prepared then set off. Close behind the truck was the veiled bride and the groom (chauffeured in a fancy car and smooching in the back seat). Then we had a flat tire on the far side of town. We could walk it back but thought that maybe we might find someone with a tire pump...soon a woman with a friendly smile directed us to a courtyard where we found no one but found out later that it was the home of the tire repairman. As we were leaving the courtyard another man just outside the gate indicated that we should wait as he also needed tire repair on his motorbike taxi. He made several calls from his cell phone while we waited for about half an hour, then a man rode up on an old bicycle with a couple of bicycle tires hanging over his shoulder. The man who had called him pointed to our bicycle and he immediately started to make repairs on it, soon he had the tube patched and refilled with air. He said we owed 5 yuan (less than a dollar). We were glad to pay him double as a tip and off we went. Once again we we felt grateful for the kindness and consideration given us by the local people as we negotiate China without the benefit of knowing their language.
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire (by Roger)
A favorite snack here is roasted nuts. Walnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, etc. are just better when roasted! Many ingenious devices are used to keep the nuts moving as they are slowly roasted over charcoal. Most look like something I might put together using materials out of a scrap heap using little more than a welder. It made me think about the song that we sing at Christmas time. Chestnuts roasting on an open fire. Jack Frost nipping at your nose. Yuletide carols being sung by a choir, and tots dressed up like eskimos. Everybody knows- some turkey and some mistletoe helps to make the season bright. Tiny tots with their eyes all aglow will find it hard to sleep tonight. You probably know the rest better that I...but now we have seen tiny tots dressed up like eskimos (in the mountains) and also tasted roasted chestnuts. It seems strange that they have these elements of Christmas but most have no knowledge of Christian beliefs.
View from our Breakfast Table
While eating our boiled eggs & white bread (not toasted)...what is called a Western Breakfast...a vendor on a bicycle with a tank & wagon behind pulled up right next to the window beside us. Our hotel lady ran out and soon the vendor pulled out a live fish from his tank, our hotel lady nodded...and before our eyes, that fish was gutted & scaled in a matter of minutes. Somebody--not us--was going to have a fresh fish meal...& the local dog licked up what was left on the pavement. The next morning as we ate breakfast, a mountain of huge coal chucks was dumped right in the same spot. Not exactly Breakfast at Tiffany's...but breakfast in China.
Lost in the City
We rode with a young Chinese girl in a taxi so of course, learned a bit more about China. She had graduated from a University & said she could not find a good job in China...which is a common problem. She said maybe if you go to a big city you can get a job...and many do leave home promising to send money home...but soon find themselves buying fashionable clothes and other things exciting they could not find in their rural villages...and soon have no money to send home. She said, "They get lost in the big cities."
Plenty of Help
Walking by a Pingyao store front, we heard much laughter & chatter coming from within. In checking it out, we discovered the small store...about the size of a one car garage...had 30 clerks ready to serve...even though they had only two customers & from the looks of the almost empty streets, they weren't getting many more. Bad for business...but great for the clerks who were having so much fun together!!
Balloon Lady
One of the things I love most is spending a bit of time with little ones...so I always have a pocket full of balloons & whenever I see a little one...I stop & give him/her a balloon. Their smiles, puzzled looks or shy "xiexie" (thank you) always tickles me.
Last day here so we're making plans for next stops. We'll be heading out on the night train to Beijing later today, stay there 4 days, then to Sanya, Hainan for 5 days and finally to HongKong to visit my college roomie before heading home March 29. Anyways, that's the plan. Hope your plans are going well & all is good. Here's the latest with us:
Wang Family Castle
Huge, sprawling castle that housed the Wang family & servants for generations...endless archways led to unique courtyards with bedrooms all around...each area a bit higher on the mountains... with a long bridge spanning a valley...finally reaching the top where a lovely pagoda overlooked the whole castle setting. Several years ago, many of the family members who had moved away, came back for a reunion...during which as a family they decided to turn their castle into a museum to retain the virtue of their family. Most of the original furniture remains as well as numerous family photos. Two rooms were filled with family trees...one of which showed 21 generations! It also houses several art collections. Couldn't count how many rooms...and almost couldn't find our way out!
Underground Weapon Storage
After entering what appeared to be a farmer's home that was built into the mountain (just like many others in the area)...we were led into a secret, dark tunnel with only clay walls that went down about 9 meters in a maze about 250 meter long that included several traps, ambush dug outs, bamboo communication sites...all built to hid weapons. A guide was required--how else could we find our way out?? It was built over 1000 yrs ago...and since no enemy army ever came near...it was never needed but makes an interesting tourist site today!
Shuanglin Temple
Another temple filled with images of Buddha, gods and also ancestors. Can you imagine that in 1000 yrs, people would pray & light incense in front of a statue of you?? Most of these types of temples were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution so one so well preserved is rare. This one also had vivid paintings as well as the 50 armed goddess. We'd biked the 6 km to get there...so we walked through it at a slow pace amazed at how old, dusty (it's forbidden to dust) and detailed each statue was...one room alone had over 100 statues!
Chinese Helper (by Roger)
We rented bicycles and rode around Ping Yao for the day. We left the walled city for awhile to visit an ATM then returned to the old city and followed a celebrating marriage procession through part of the city (a brass band in the back of a truck blaring away while firecrackers were prepared then set off. Close behind the truck was the veiled bride and the groom (chauffeured in a fancy car and smooching in the back seat). Then we had a flat tire on the far side of town. We could walk it back but thought that maybe we might find someone with a tire pump...soon a woman with a friendly smile directed us to a courtyard where we found no one but found out later that it was the home of the tire repairman. As we were leaving the courtyard another man just outside the gate indicated that we should wait as he also needed tire repair on his motorbike taxi. He made several calls from his cell phone while we waited for about half an hour, then a man rode up on an old bicycle with a couple of bicycle tires hanging over his shoulder. The man who had called him pointed to our bicycle and he immediately started to make repairs on it, soon he had the tube patched and refilled with air. He said we owed 5 yuan (less than a dollar). We were glad to pay him double as a tip and off we went. Once again we we felt grateful for the kindness and consideration given us by the local people as we negotiate China without the benefit of knowing their language.
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire (by Roger)
A favorite snack here is roasted nuts. Walnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, etc. are just better when roasted! Many ingenious devices are used to keep the nuts moving as they are slowly roasted over charcoal. Most look like something I might put together using materials out of a scrap heap using little more than a welder. It made me think about the song that we sing at Christmas time. Chestnuts roasting on an open fire. Jack Frost nipping at your nose. Yuletide carols being sung by a choir, and tots dressed up like eskimos. Everybody knows- some turkey and some mistletoe helps to make the season bright. Tiny tots with their eyes all aglow will find it hard to sleep tonight. You probably know the rest better that I...but now we have seen tiny tots dressed up like eskimos (in the mountains) and also tasted roasted chestnuts. It seems strange that they have these elements of Christmas but most have no knowledge of Christian beliefs.
View from our Breakfast Table
While eating our boiled eggs & white bread (not toasted)...what is called a Western Breakfast...a vendor on a bicycle with a tank & wagon behind pulled up right next to the window beside us. Our hotel lady ran out and soon the vendor pulled out a live fish from his tank, our hotel lady nodded...and before our eyes, that fish was gutted & scaled in a matter of minutes. Somebody--not us--was going to have a fresh fish meal...& the local dog licked up what was left on the pavement. The next morning as we ate breakfast, a mountain of huge coal chucks was dumped right in the same spot. Not exactly Breakfast at Tiffany's...but breakfast in China.
Lost in the City
We rode with a young Chinese girl in a taxi so of course, learned a bit more about China. She had graduated from a University & said she could not find a good job in China...which is a common problem. She said maybe if you go to a big city you can get a job...and many do leave home promising to send money home...but soon find themselves buying fashionable clothes and other things exciting they could not find in their rural villages...and soon have no money to send home. She said, "They get lost in the big cities."
Plenty of Help
Walking by a Pingyao store front, we heard much laughter & chatter coming from within. In checking it out, we discovered the small store...about the size of a one car garage...had 30 clerks ready to serve...even though they had only two customers & from the looks of the almost empty streets, they weren't getting many more. Bad for business...but great for the clerks who were having so much fun together!!
Balloon Lady
One of the things I love most is spending a bit of time with little ones...so I always have a pocket full of balloons & whenever I see a little one...I stop & give him/her a balloon. Their smiles, puzzled looks or shy "xiexie" (thank you) always tickles me.
Sunday, March 11, 2012
18
Coolest Museum
We tried again to get to Emperor Jing Di burial site and succeeded this time. We had spent a whole day trying to get there so we were very happy to finally make it. Very few visitors had found their way so no crowds at all. Also the neatest thing about it was how they excavated the burial pits and built a museum over the top. Clear plastic flooring allows you to look down into the pit as you walk above. There were hundreds and hundreds of miniature soldiers, pigs, chickens, horses, cows, chariots, and more. The detail is amazing...even tiny quivers full of tiny arrows of the soldiers backs. Even more amazing is the fact that each of these little soldiers was dressed in beautiful silk clothing and held all the necessary equipment of the day.
Jing Di became emperor in 157 B.C. and ruled for 17 years. He ruled using the Wu Wei philosophy: Do nothing & nothing will not be done. He must of done something cause during that time he unified much of China and his rule is considered to be the pinnacle of Han Dynasty. Today over 90% of Chinese are descended from the Han people. Only a small part of the burial site is excavated...apparently an entire miniature city is buried here to serve the emperor in his next life! A special presentation at the museum included a high quality hologram that made all of the characters come alive for us as miniature chickens pecked at the ground, miniature women danced in fancy costumes and flames soared from tiny fires.
Historical Museum
We wandered among 5000+ year old artifacts and examined the 200,000 yr old skull in the Xi'an Historical Museum. Since it was the custom to bury most everything you owned to use in your next life, there is an amazing amount of items that have been excavated in Xi'an as the city dates back about 6000 years. Piles of gold coins, elaborate hair pins & buttons, decorative pots & dishes...even a cooking grill that looked just like our old hibachi!! I sincerely doubt anyone will ever look at anything we have in 5000+ years???
Train to PingYao
Moving on...we hopped a sleeper train headed for PingYao. Actually hopped is not the right word as we were herded through several gates and waiting room so it was more like pushed onto a sleeper train among thousands of others...all Chinese one of which grabbed my suitcase & carried it down two flights of steps right to the car we got on. After several people led us to our bunks...we discovered three of our bunk mates spoke English! They sat on the edge of their beds eagerly asking and answering questions. The first question was "Do you know Michaels?"--she was thrilled we had as she sold her glass candle holders to them. She asked if it was like Walmart? They told us they were proud of China's progress but felt the 60% of the population that lived in the rural area were still really poor and without much medical care. (Premier Wen Jiabao recently report wages were up 22%, Health coverage was 95% & 60 million less are paying income taxes--though he did note that was mainly in the urban area.) They also felt that there were still many challenges facing China due to the large & growing population. They said housing was very expensive & that most of the tall condo buildings going up were by private investors & empty--confirming what we heard from others. Because of housing expense, a man needed to have a house before anyone would marry him so usually, his parents bought him a house...after paying for his university...and then the parents took almost total care of the grandchildren. (No wonder most support the one child policy!) They were very interested in how children were cared for in USA. After they asked how long we'd been married, they asked a strange question..do you go for years without talking. When we said no...they looked very surprised & said, "Never???" That led to a discussion about divorce. They heard that in USA people get divorce quickly over small fights. They informed us that now 30% of Chinese marriages end in divorce mostly due to quarrel over who will do the house work...& had risen that high since the 1980's when the one child policy kids started marrying. About then, someone looked at their watch...it was 9:55 & lights were out at 10 so we all quickly jumped in our bunks--Rog & I both had middle bunk with one above & one below...and soon were rocked asleep...until 6 a.m. when got off the train and we stepped back in time in the ancient 2700 year old city of PingYao.
PingYao
This city is like a relic--almost fossilized. It seems these people changed nothing--barely maintaining most everything--and now are famous for that! The wall that surrounds it was originally built in 700 BC. & the catapult & many canons were still there. The whole city is like walking through a museum...and within the museum are a multitude of smaller museum: first armed escort service site (pre-police) & jail that had displayed torture items complete with vivid drawings of use, first draft bank (ancestor to all modern Chinese banks), most preserved City God Temple, only Taoist Temple open to public (with detailed & grotesque torture scenes depicting hell & filled with demons--no loving god there!!), Confucius temple where he taught & his students took exams & largest collection of his writings as most were destroyed by some Emperor's orders....while there one of his disciples came up to me & asked where I was from in very broken English & when I told him, he gestured an up thumb & said Obama & a down thumb saying Bush...guess that was another Confucius saying!
The View from Above
We walked much of the wall which gave us a bird's eye view of the city...we peered down on the many courtyards filled with laundry, dogs, children, drying corn, piles of bricks rescued from falling buildings, wood, etc. We read that the same families have lived in the same years for generations enjoying the same courtyard neighbors for generations. It was so interesting to see what was behind those many old wooden doors we'd seen as we walked the streets and get a small peek at their lives.
Biking
We rented bikes & went outside the walls...and I know by the looks on their faces, that many of the people who saw us were thinking...yikes, some tourist escaped the wall!
Wedding Parade
As we biked along, we heard loud music & firecrackers so we followed it to the source which took us under bright red blow up arches...to a band playing in the back of a truck with a flower decorated car behind it...the bride & groom! The truck led the newly weds up & down the streets playing jolly music & lighting firecrackers! Maybe it'll catch on in USA!!
We tried again to get to Emperor Jing Di burial site and succeeded this time. We had spent a whole day trying to get there so we were very happy to finally make it. Very few visitors had found their way so no crowds at all. Also the neatest thing about it was how they excavated the burial pits and built a museum over the top. Clear plastic flooring allows you to look down into the pit as you walk above. There were hundreds and hundreds of miniature soldiers, pigs, chickens, horses, cows, chariots, and more. The detail is amazing...even tiny quivers full of tiny arrows of the soldiers backs. Even more amazing is the fact that each of these little soldiers was dressed in beautiful silk clothing and held all the necessary equipment of the day.
Jing Di became emperor in 157 B.C. and ruled for 17 years. He ruled using the Wu Wei philosophy: Do nothing & nothing will not be done. He must of done something cause during that time he unified much of China and his rule is considered to be the pinnacle of Han Dynasty. Today over 90% of Chinese are descended from the Han people. Only a small part of the burial site is excavated...apparently an entire miniature city is buried here to serve the emperor in his next life! A special presentation at the museum included a high quality hologram that made all of the characters come alive for us as miniature chickens pecked at the ground, miniature women danced in fancy costumes and flames soared from tiny fires.
Historical Museum
We wandered among 5000+ year old artifacts and examined the 200,000 yr old skull in the Xi'an Historical Museum. Since it was the custom to bury most everything you owned to use in your next life, there is an amazing amount of items that have been excavated in Xi'an as the city dates back about 6000 years. Piles of gold coins, elaborate hair pins & buttons, decorative pots & dishes...even a cooking grill that looked just like our old hibachi!! I sincerely doubt anyone will ever look at anything we have in 5000+ years???
Train to PingYao
Moving on...we hopped a sleeper train headed for PingYao. Actually hopped is not the right word as we were herded through several gates and waiting room so it was more like pushed onto a sleeper train among thousands of others...all Chinese one of which grabbed my suitcase & carried it down two flights of steps right to the car we got on. After several people led us to our bunks...we discovered three of our bunk mates spoke English! They sat on the edge of their beds eagerly asking and answering questions. The first question was "Do you know Michaels?"--she was thrilled we had as she sold her glass candle holders to them. She asked if it was like Walmart? They told us they were proud of China's progress but felt the 60% of the population that lived in the rural area were still really poor and without much medical care. (Premier Wen Jiabao recently report wages were up 22%, Health coverage was 95% & 60 million less are paying income taxes--though he did note that was mainly in the urban area.) They also felt that there were still many challenges facing China due to the large & growing population. They said housing was very expensive & that most of the tall condo buildings going up were by private investors & empty--confirming what we heard from others. Because of housing expense, a man needed to have a house before anyone would marry him so usually, his parents bought him a house...after paying for his university...and then the parents took almost total care of the grandchildren. (No wonder most support the one child policy!) They were very interested in how children were cared for in USA. After they asked how long we'd been married, they asked a strange question..do you go for years without talking. When we said no...they looked very surprised & said, "Never???" That led to a discussion about divorce. They heard that in USA people get divorce quickly over small fights. They informed us that now 30% of Chinese marriages end in divorce mostly due to quarrel over who will do the house work...& had risen that high since the 1980's when the one child policy kids started marrying. About then, someone looked at their watch...it was 9:55 & lights were out at 10 so we all quickly jumped in our bunks--Rog & I both had middle bunk with one above & one below...and soon were rocked asleep...until 6 a.m. when got off the train and we stepped back in time in the ancient 2700 year old city of PingYao.
PingYao
This city is like a relic--almost fossilized. It seems these people changed nothing--barely maintaining most everything--and now are famous for that! The wall that surrounds it was originally built in 700 BC. & the catapult & many canons were still there. The whole city is like walking through a museum...and within the museum are a multitude of smaller museum: first armed escort service site (pre-police) & jail that had displayed torture items complete with vivid drawings of use, first draft bank (ancestor to all modern Chinese banks), most preserved City God Temple, only Taoist Temple open to public (with detailed & grotesque torture scenes depicting hell & filled with demons--no loving god there!!), Confucius temple where he taught & his students took exams & largest collection of his writings as most were destroyed by some Emperor's orders....while there one of his disciples came up to me & asked where I was from in very broken English & when I told him, he gestured an up thumb & said Obama & a down thumb saying Bush...guess that was another Confucius saying!
The View from Above
We walked much of the wall which gave us a bird's eye view of the city...we peered down on the many courtyards filled with laundry, dogs, children, drying corn, piles of bricks rescued from falling buildings, wood, etc. We read that the same families have lived in the same years for generations enjoying the same courtyard neighbors for generations. It was so interesting to see what was behind those many old wooden doors we'd seen as we walked the streets and get a small peek at their lives.
Biking
We rented bikes & went outside the walls...and I know by the looks on their faces, that many of the people who saw us were thinking...yikes, some tourist escaped the wall!
Wedding Parade
As we biked along, we heard loud music & firecrackers so we followed it to the source which took us under bright red blow up arches...to a band playing in the back of a truck with a flower decorated car behind it...the bride & groom! The truck led the newly weds up & down the streets playing jolly music & lighting firecrackers! Maybe it'll catch on in USA!!
Thursday, March 8, 2012
17
Hi from Xi'an,
It's been a few days since we were able to find a computer we could use...actually to find anything we were looking for!! Without anyone showing us around, we find ourselves walking in circles lots & laughing at where we end up sometimes...but we keep reminding each other to Enjoy The Journey... & we have been helped by so many kind young Chinese who tell us it's their privilege to help us! Here's a bit about that...
Saying goodbye to The Three Amigos
Last night in Kunming, Li & Yuan took us to dinner where we could eat pizza. It was fun to see them eat with a fork! They both again said they hope to come to America and work our farm for free. Probably could make lots of $$ selling all the vege's they could grow on our farm!! Then the next morning, Meizi with her arms linked around us, walked as far as she could in the airport & then threw kisses as we went through security. We felt so coddled by them all & so lucky to have spent time with them.
Finding Help
Since hardly anything is in English, we often find ourselves totally without a clue where to go but seems like that has been a benefit as we have been helped by so many young Chinese. Like Jenny, who happened to sit next to us on the plane to Xi'an who was headed to the same area our hotel was at & rode with us on the bus from the airport to town & then insisted on walking us right to our hotel door. She said that she had texted her boyfriend that she envied our relationship & hoped she would have the same with him. Then she called him & had both of us talk to him. And then the subway attendant who helped us get the right ticket, took both us of by the arm & waited with us until we got on the subway...and another subway attendant that helped us on the right subway & called ahead to the one we got off so there was another attendant waiting to direct us to the bus station we were looking for. He ended up waiting with us for an hour...then said probably the bus wasn't running due to the cold weather so he walked us back to the subway. And another....heard us asking someone else about finding an internet cafe and told us he'd take us to one....he had gone to school in Boston so we chatted as we walked about 4 blocks (out of his way) & then he led us into one we could never have found, talked to the clerk & even started up the computers for us. Now that's what you call "Going out of your way to help someone!!"
Xi'an
Huge walled ancient city where the Silk Road began. We visited the Bell & Drum towers & watched them demonstrate how the towers were used to let people know time of day. Spent a bit of time walking the wall around the city & wandered through the Great Mosque....and riding in one of their little taxi cabs which are motorcycles with a cart behind. But the most fascinating....
Terra Cotta
Fascinating...awesome....amazing...can't really describe seeing the Terra Cotta warriors. I actually got goosebumps as I stood in awe of the numbers, the size, the detail, the wonder of how something so astounding could have been built so very long ago...about 2200 yrs ago...buried and then not discovered until a farmer (whom we met) was digging in 1979.
It's been a few days since we were able to find a computer we could use...actually to find anything we were looking for!! Without anyone showing us around, we find ourselves walking in circles lots & laughing at where we end up sometimes...but we keep reminding each other to Enjoy The Journey... & we have been helped by so many kind young Chinese who tell us it's their privilege to help us! Here's a bit about that...
Saying goodbye to The Three Amigos
Last night in Kunming, Li & Yuan took us to dinner where we could eat pizza. It was fun to see them eat with a fork! They both again said they hope to come to America and work our farm for free. Probably could make lots of $$ selling all the vege's they could grow on our farm!! Then the next morning, Meizi with her arms linked around us, walked as far as she could in the airport & then threw kisses as we went through security. We felt so coddled by them all & so lucky to have spent time with them.
Finding Help
Since hardly anything is in English, we often find ourselves totally without a clue where to go but seems like that has been a benefit as we have been helped by so many young Chinese. Like Jenny, who happened to sit next to us on the plane to Xi'an who was headed to the same area our hotel was at & rode with us on the bus from the airport to town & then insisted on walking us right to our hotel door. She said that she had texted her boyfriend that she envied our relationship & hoped she would have the same with him. Then she called him & had both of us talk to him. And then the subway attendant who helped us get the right ticket, took both us of by the arm & waited with us until we got on the subway...and another subway attendant that helped us on the right subway & called ahead to the one we got off so there was another attendant waiting to direct us to the bus station we were looking for. He ended up waiting with us for an hour...then said probably the bus wasn't running due to the cold weather so he walked us back to the subway. And another....heard us asking someone else about finding an internet cafe and told us he'd take us to one....he had gone to school in Boston so we chatted as we walked about 4 blocks (out of his way) & then he led us into one we could never have found, talked to the clerk & even started up the computers for us. Now that's what you call "Going out of your way to help someone!!"
Xi'an
Huge walled ancient city where the Silk Road began. We visited the Bell & Drum towers & watched them demonstrate how the towers were used to let people know time of day. Spent a bit of time walking the wall around the city & wandered through the Great Mosque....and riding in one of their little taxi cabs which are motorcycles with a cart behind. But the most fascinating....
Terra Cotta
Fascinating...awesome....amazing...can't really describe seeing the Terra Cotta warriors. I actually got goosebumps as I stood in awe of the numbers, the size, the detail, the wonder of how something so astounding could have been built so very long ago...about 2200 yrs ago...buried and then not discovered until a farmer (whom we met) was digging in 1979.
So much is yet to be discovered as they have discovered 50 sites to excavate in a 500 sq kilometer area. Over 700,000 slaves labored for 36 years...and all the artisans who designed it were buried alive so no secrets could be told...all because Emperor Qin Shi Huang could take everything he had in life to his next life. He spent his entire life planning his tomb. Just to give you a bit of what I mean by detail...each warrior is uniquely made to accurately represent each solider in the army...you could see braids in their hair, bumps in soles of shoes, belts, chains, mustache, even eyelashes. When first discovered, they were colored but as soon as oxygen hit them, they color faded. So maybe Emperor Quin Shi Huang started the Qin dynasty, united China, developed their written language, had roads & aqueducts built and a few more things....did he really need such an elaborate tomb????????
Locust Story
Met Maynessa from Australia & she traveled with us to the Terra Cotta's. She confirmed a story with our guide that she'd heard--gives you an idea of how many people in China there are and how well they do as told--it seems the locust were eating up the crops so each Chinese was told they must kill 10 a day...in no time...no locust!
Favorite Treat
By far, the luscious coconut & pineapple rolls that melt in your mouth! Regular bread has been very hard to find...but I have been pretty lucky to find Coke Zero for about 50 cents... though a cold one is near impossible to find! It's also been a treat to eat at McDonald's a few times...prices similar to USA--which considering their wages...pretty expensive for them!
No Central Heat or Soft Beds
Found out why there was no central heat in Yunnan province: Chrm Mao said there could be none south of the Yangzi River. Did he also say no soft beds???? and by each bed there should be a variety of condoms???
Price of Gas
Near as we can figure, it's about $6 a gallon--no wonder taxi's & bus tickets are high!
Solar
So many rooftops we see have solar panels and solar water tanks on top. Go Green China!
Traveling North toward Xi'an
Small towns seem to be better off though still built in a compact area & sometimes walled, less terrace farming more big fields (even saw one tractor), but there are signs of building even in the small towns.
Cranes
Everywhere still. Can't believe how many huge condo like buildings going up. We were told some were by the gov't for low income housing but most are by private investors. Also told no one is living in them cause they are too expensive...and indeed we don't see signs of people in them. But that doesn't seem to stop the building...
Rarity / Grandparents
We are still a rarity & get stared at often. Not only are we caucasians...we have gray hair which we rarely see here. We were told most people with gray hair don't travel & are home babysitting their grandchildren. 90% of grandkids are cared for by their grandparents...who usually only have one grandchild....so Ben, Bek & Jake--sorry we can't keep up with the Chinese!
Mistakes by Children
Heard a interesting remark from a young Chinese: American children seem to make mistakes which are forgiven by their parents. Not so in China. Chinese parents don't forgive their mistakes so easy.
China Newspaper
Last couple days, we have been able to read China News in English!! So interesting to get USA news from a Chinese perspective. It points out that USA must realize the world is now flat & trade is therefore able to go both ways. Also an article about how prejudice many Americans are toward the Chinese...how we often blame them for taking jobs....make jokes about their sing-song language...etc. Seem to support Obama. And loud & clear is their desire for a peaceful world.
Modern vs Old
Seems to be nothing in between. The modern clean cities with so many new uniquely designed buildings & well built roads vs the old villages. The old & very young working in the villages & the middle generation working in the big cities...over 240 million migrant mostly male workers from the villages trying to make money there while their families stay home in the village.
Sunday, March 4, 2012
#16
Hi from Dali,
We have been having a nice & restful time in Dali. If you want to read more about Dali, here it is:
Dali
This is an ancient city that in 1000AD was one of the 14th biggest cities in the world because it was on the Silk Route. Dali was a kingdom in itself and home to the Bai tribe. There are 3 large pagodas that are 1,100 yrs old & have stood through over 30 earthquakes. The Bai still live here in large numbers and we biked through the residential part of town to see their homes which blocks plastered over & painted white. Often great artwork is painted on the outside walls & the doorways are very decorative. Usually their was a courtyard is full of flowing plants. And wherever there is soil, there is a ridged garden meticulously kept. The whole city is surrounded by majestic mountains frosted with snow and they cradle a large lake. Inside the walls of Old Dali, the mountain streams have been made into creative courses filled with rocks, waterfalls and curved bridges. The pink cherry blossoms are in full bloom & some type of a weeping tree is spring green now. In other words, it's gorgeous. Old Dali use to be a hang out for backpackers & mountain climbers but unfortunately, it's become quite touristy with lots of souvenir shops & food vendors. But I am loving the fact that it has lots of western type food here as well as Bai & Chinese choices. After a month of eating Chinese, it's a welcome change! Speaking of food...here's Roger's take on it:
Food
I (Roger) am eating almost everything that they bring and just one day of a queasy stomach so far. I have trouble with the chopsticks and often someone at the table tries to show me how to hold them....I am not a very quick learner but I get enough to eat so that could be why I'm not very motivated to change my ways. Meat is chopped with the bone and all joint material still attached then stir-fried or boiled, then often served in a sauce or with many sauces available to dip the meat in. We had some very good pork ribs Yesterday that were well done and were in a barbecue sauce..Yum!
Always white rice is available with the meal but sometimes not at the beginning. Soup (usually a clear broth with spinach) is served near the end of the meal. Its surprising how good it is when other options are not so inviting. When eating at the village one of the men offered me the chicken head right out of the pot but he seemed happy to eat it himself when I declined his offer. We sometimes start with a salad (some kind of root cut up in small pieces and soaked in vinegar)...then dishes of stir fried chicken with vegetables (broccoli or other chinese vegetables), pork with all the fat possible included, beef, Chinese cabbage, lotus roots, peas, beans many served up with hot peppers and slippery green onions, tofu (sometimes stuffed with ?) coagulated pig blood (cut up in squares and cooked in the soup). Savory mushrooms, sprouts, rice noodles and dessert of Lion ? (rice cake covered with brown sugar and baked).
Breakfast is usually a large bowl of hot steaming rice noodles served in a tasty clear broth with pieces of meat and sausage also thrown in and bits of dried pig fat floating on top. Then you are able to add chopped green onion, chives, powdered hot pepper and other spices to your own taste.
When we go into the restaurant there is always a cooler with fresh meat (sometimes with heads attached) and vegetables inside that you can inspect and select for the meal. Sometimes the vegetables & live fish/snail/frogs/squid/shrimp/and unknown items are all displayed in bins on the steps in front of the restaurant. No frozen prepared meals here. Also no menu. Very different from Michigan!
Dali University
We had the privilege to spend a Sunday afternoon with four of Dali University students. The three girls who met us at the bus station plus a friend, Chung who is an English major. First we took them to lunch at their favorite restaurant, Superman Vegetarian. They ordered lots and ate it all up telling us that the dorm food was horrid. (For six of us, it cost about $20 plus $1 more for ice cream cones later.) Then we took a bus to theri University and they gave us a grand tour. As we strolled, we had an enlightening time discussing both USA & China politics, economy, culture, families, wars gays & homeless. We both soaked up info from each other. They asked us many questions about USA: Does everyone carry a gun & are they scared like they saw on TV? Do we eat alone always? How does USA feel about gays? about China? about VietNam war? Do we really have freedom and what are we free to do? Do we like Obama? We too asked questions being careful not to be too invasive. They all felt China was improving and getting stronger and were proud of that. However, they didn't feel the economic growth was helping the poor. Li's waitress job paid her about $7 for 8 hours--and no one tips here. They did feel like even though college cost was about $700 per year for tuition & dorm, most all Chinese could go if they wanted to as there were many scholarships available. Unfortunately, most (we read almost 90%) will not get good jobs even with degree. All dreamed of traveling--just to other provinces seemed out of reach to them. They thought we were brave, energetic and very lucky. We agreed. As we parted, they thanked us for our honesty and wrote down our email address. If we stay in touch, it will be so fascinating to follow their lives.
Coming to America
One of the guys, (LaddyLi) at HANDA has been telling us often that he hopes to come to American & will stay with us & work our farm. He says we won't need to pay him...just feed him. I wonder if he is kidding or for real???
Signing off for now....
We have been having a nice & restful time in Dali. If you want to read more about Dali, here it is:
Dali
This is an ancient city that in 1000AD was one of the 14th biggest cities in the world because it was on the Silk Route. Dali was a kingdom in itself and home to the Bai tribe. There are 3 large pagodas that are 1,100 yrs old & have stood through over 30 earthquakes. The Bai still live here in large numbers and we biked through the residential part of town to see their homes which blocks plastered over & painted white. Often great artwork is painted on the outside walls & the doorways are very decorative. Usually their was a courtyard is full of flowing plants. And wherever there is soil, there is a ridged garden meticulously kept. The whole city is surrounded by majestic mountains frosted with snow and they cradle a large lake. Inside the walls of Old Dali, the mountain streams have been made into creative courses filled with rocks, waterfalls and curved bridges. The pink cherry blossoms are in full bloom & some type of a weeping tree is spring green now. In other words, it's gorgeous. Old Dali use to be a hang out for backpackers & mountain climbers but unfortunately, it's become quite touristy with lots of souvenir shops & food vendors. But I am loving the fact that it has lots of western type food here as well as Bai & Chinese choices. After a month of eating Chinese, it's a welcome change! Speaking of food...here's Roger's take on it:
Food
I (Roger) am eating almost everything that they bring and just one day of a queasy stomach so far. I have trouble with the chopsticks and often someone at the table tries to show me how to hold them....I am not a very quick learner but I get enough to eat so that could be why I'm not very motivated to change my ways. Meat is chopped with the bone and all joint material still attached then stir-fried or boiled, then often served in a sauce or with many sauces available to dip the meat in. We had some very good pork ribs Yesterday that were well done and were in a barbecue sauce..Yum!
Always white rice is available with the meal but sometimes not at the beginning. Soup (usually a clear broth with spinach) is served near the end of the meal. Its surprising how good it is when other options are not so inviting. When eating at the village one of the men offered me the chicken head right out of the pot but he seemed happy to eat it himself when I declined his offer. We sometimes start with a salad (some kind of root cut up in small pieces and soaked in vinegar)...then dishes of stir fried chicken with vegetables (broccoli or other chinese vegetables), pork with all the fat possible included, beef, Chinese cabbage, lotus roots, peas, beans many served up with hot peppers and slippery green onions, tofu (sometimes stuffed with ?) coagulated pig blood (cut up in squares and cooked in the soup). Savory mushrooms, sprouts, rice noodles and dessert of Lion ? (rice cake covered with brown sugar and baked).
Breakfast is usually a large bowl of hot steaming rice noodles served in a tasty clear broth with pieces of meat and sausage also thrown in and bits of dried pig fat floating on top. Then you are able to add chopped green onion, chives, powdered hot pepper and other spices to your own taste.
When we go into the restaurant there is always a cooler with fresh meat (sometimes with heads attached) and vegetables inside that you can inspect and select for the meal. Sometimes the vegetables & live fish/snail/frogs/squid/shrimp/and unknown items are all displayed in bins on the steps in front of the restaurant. No frozen prepared meals here. Also no menu. Very different from Michigan!
Dali University
We had the privilege to spend a Sunday afternoon with four of Dali University students. The three girls who met us at the bus station plus a friend, Chung who is an English major. First we took them to lunch at their favorite restaurant, Superman Vegetarian. They ordered lots and ate it all up telling us that the dorm food was horrid. (For six of us, it cost about $20 plus $1 more for ice cream cones later.) Then we took a bus to theri University and they gave us a grand tour. As we strolled, we had an enlightening time discussing both USA & China politics, economy, culture, families, wars gays & homeless. We both soaked up info from each other. They asked us many questions about USA: Does everyone carry a gun & are they scared like they saw on TV? Do we eat alone always? How does USA feel about gays? about China? about VietNam war? Do we really have freedom and what are we free to do? Do we like Obama? We too asked questions being careful not to be too invasive. They all felt China was improving and getting stronger and were proud of that. However, they didn't feel the economic growth was helping the poor. Li's waitress job paid her about $7 for 8 hours--and no one tips here. They did feel like even though college cost was about $700 per year for tuition & dorm, most all Chinese could go if they wanted to as there were many scholarships available. Unfortunately, most (we read almost 90%) will not get good jobs even with degree. All dreamed of traveling--just to other provinces seemed out of reach to them. They thought we were brave, energetic and very lucky. We agreed. As we parted, they thanked us for our honesty and wrote down our email address. If we stay in touch, it will be so fascinating to follow their lives.
Coming to America
One of the guys, (LaddyLi) at HANDA has been telling us often that he hopes to come to American & will stay with us & work our farm. He says we won't need to pay him...just feed him. I wonder if he is kidding or for real???
Signing off for now....
Saturday, March 3, 2012
#15
Wei (Hi),
Well we are out on our own and doing just fine! Left Kunming a couple days ago and here's what's up:
Eating Western Style
We had an American eating day: McDonald's for lunch (cost about the same as the states) & pizza for dinner. Mmmmmmm.
New Zealand Girl
While we were doing our wash at the HANDA building, a young girl from NZ came to interview Li about HANDA. It was great to talk to her. She had attended an international high school set up by Mandela full of kids from all over the world. Now she was studying Chinese in Kunming and also doing a study of AIDS in Yunnan province--which she said was a huge problem. Ironically, she had been to the very same area in Thailand we were in & also been to India. We had lots to talk about.
Toilet Trained
Watch a little girl (maybe a little younger than 2) today who proved she was toilet trained. Her mom was carrying her on her back (very common here) but let her down on the street corner where she squatted & since the kids where pants that have a long slit in the bottom, she could pee without pulling down her pants. She then just ran around...even though her mom didn't watch her...as cars whizzed by. How did she know to stay out of the street when a car was coming is beyond me.
Road Signs
Our bus ride to Dali brought us the laughs reading the following road signs:
No Nruken Driving
Don't Drive Tiredly
Hotel Signs
While I'm on the subject, here's some hotel signs that brought us smiles:
Above the bathtub: Be Careful of Landslide
On desk: Keep Cash & Valuables in Head Stage
Oxymoran
Here'e an oxymoran: seeing a man leading his ox & cart while talking on his cell phone.
Correction
Renay was not born in China...her father was.
Dali Connection
We had a comfortable bus ride to Dali & Li had lined up a friend to meet us...and she & two others ran to shake our hands withing ten minutes after we arrived. They ( Ping, Li & Esther) were delightful & enjoyed practicing their English on us. They walked us right to our hotel laughing and talking the whole way. They told us they'd call us so we could meet them later. We gave each of them one of the Chinese New Year stamps we'd brought from USA & they loved them. We just keep getting lots of TLC!
Rog is waiting in our room for me soo better get back before he starts to worry....keep in touch!!
Well we are out on our own and doing just fine! Left Kunming a couple days ago and here's what's up:
Eating Western Style
We had an American eating day: McDonald's for lunch (cost about the same as the states) & pizza for dinner. Mmmmmmm.
New Zealand Girl
While we were doing our wash at the HANDA building, a young girl from NZ came to interview Li about HANDA. It was great to talk to her. She had attended an international high school set up by Mandela full of kids from all over the world. Now she was studying Chinese in Kunming and also doing a study of AIDS in Yunnan province--which she said was a huge problem. Ironically, she had been to the very same area in Thailand we were in & also been to India. We had lots to talk about.
Toilet Trained
Watch a little girl (maybe a little younger than 2) today who proved she was toilet trained. Her mom was carrying her on her back (very common here) but let her down on the street corner where she squatted & since the kids where pants that have a long slit in the bottom, she could pee without pulling down her pants. She then just ran around...even though her mom didn't watch her...as cars whizzed by. How did she know to stay out of the street when a car was coming is beyond me.
Road Signs
Our bus ride to Dali brought us the laughs reading the following road signs:
No Nruken Driving
Don't Drive Tiredly
Hotel Signs
While I'm on the subject, here's some hotel signs that brought us smiles:
Above the bathtub: Be Careful of Landslide
On desk: Keep Cash & Valuables in Head Stage
Oxymoran
Here'e an oxymoran: seeing a man leading his ox & cart while talking on his cell phone.
Correction
Renay was not born in China...her father was.
Dali Connection
We had a comfortable bus ride to Dali & Li had lined up a friend to meet us...and she & two others ran to shake our hands withing ten minutes after we arrived. They ( Ping, Li & Esther) were delightful & enjoyed practicing their English on us. They walked us right to our hotel laughing and talking the whole way. They told us they'd call us so we could meet them later. We gave each of them one of the Chinese New Year stamps we'd brought from USA & they loved them. We just keep getting lots of TLC!
Rog is waiting in our room for me soo better get back before he starts to worry....keep in touch!!
Thursday, March 1, 2012
#14
Rog's comments:
Bamei Village of Guangnan County has become a must go scenic spots while traveling Wenshan. Before entering the village, villagers should first pass through the watercourse in a karst cave. For most of Chinese people, this is exactly the Xanadu, a bucolic land outside the world.
We visited this village with Renay and Jenny while Yuan spent he day visiting ancestral graves with his family in his home village. A pony cart ride on cobblestone trails led us to a beautiful park beside a village. Many green flatbottom boats lined the shore of a small pond near the village. As we carefully crawled into the boat we could feel chily air coming from a huge opening in the mountain. Our boatman used a long pole to push us toward that dark hole as we realized that we didn't have a flashlight! Fortunately he had a headlamp, which he used sparingly, so the journey through the cave was not totally black the entire way. Huge formations and stalactities hung from above as we quietly floated along. It was very relaxing and expecially beautiful when light from outside found its way in through openings above to light parts of our journey. We exited and found ourselves in a quaint village surrounded by huge mountains and the guide told us that the only other way in was a trail and it would take at least an hour to climb over the mountain which we had just passed through. He took us to his home where we were led to a balcony eating area where we could enjoy the local sights while we waited for food to be prepared. Change seemed to be the theme in this village as old buildings were being replaced by new structures as tourism is driving this beautiful place to be a "destination". We enjoyed our lunch and commented on the luxury of eating M and M's , peanuts, and choclate in such a remote spot. Then we noticed huge piles of sand and stone that appeared to have been dumped by a truck. We laughed about how our guide had given us a line about how we were in a remote place and we had so willingly accepted his word! We continued along the trail until we reached an area where we were again loaded onto a pony cart. This time Renay and Jenny rode in the back seat which was just behind the wheels of the two wheeled cart and as the pony took off the back the the cart bounced which made them a bit uneasy as it seemed that the cart might tip over backward. But it was securely fastened to the pony and soon we were trotting and then galloping down the hill with Jenny and Renay laughing harder and harder each time the cart lurched and they were thrown up and down. The ride ended too soon and the girls caught their breath as we again approached more flat bottom boats for a journey through another cave. It was a slow day for the boatmen so most of them were playing cards around a small table beside the river and we stopped to watch them forcefully throw down their cards as they played. Then on to another cave, this time the boatman had no light and he told us he didn't know anything about the cave either. Again blackness, then some light filtering from above and the cool rush of wind passing through the cave. Ahead there was a greenish glow, then some purple. The cave was lighted with many different colored lights to show off the interesting and ancient formations. What a relief to be able to see again and how beautiful! Monstrous stalactites again hung down from above and seemed to point directly down on us as we passed beneath. It was awesome. Natural light ahead meant our journey was coming to an end but it was a welcome sight too as the cave seemed so removed from the lush and living world outside. After carefully crawling out of the tippy boat we commented on how that ride would not be advisable for anyone traveling with children. Then we noticed a sign in chinese that looked like a warning sign. Jenny told us that it said to be sure to wear your life jacket at all times while in the boat. But there were no life jackets! She said that she had asked the boatman about life jackets at the start of the trip and he said, "The water is not deep." Then after we were in the boat she asked how deep is the water and he said, "Six meters." !!! Definitely not Disneyland.
How to Change the Way People Think
I am learning that it is not possible to come into a place and make a change that is lasting unless the people really want that change to happen. Larry (in Texas) first told me that getting the agreement of the villagers was of utmost importance.
Our efforts and the efforts of many before us are all well intentioned but will fail over time unless the villagers take ownership of the plan and actually make changes themselves with guidance and encouragement (money and/or materials). This is hard to do because giving them stuff and doing "for" them is not good for them because it encourages dependence and takes away their will to provide a better life for themselves. But guiding them to change takes so long that it feels like everything is in slow motion.
Previously someone tried to help the villagers by providing them with pampers. Their latrine was plugged with pampers and a new problem had to be solved. What appears to be a simple fix can really be complex. The stinky pampers floating in putrid water in the latrine were carefully removed to a nearby pit by the diligent villagers who were intent on cleaning up the stinky and dangerous mess. Unfortunately the pit was not large enough to hold all of the contents of the latrine and it overflowed causing a mess which attracted the chickens. They ran through the mess carrying contamination on their feet throughout the village. After the mess we all wondered if someone in the village might get sick or die.
After this we talked with the villagers about maintaining the latrine so that they would never again have to deal with such a stinky and dangerous mess. At first it seemed that they agreed to compost the solids and mix them with animal waste to be used as fertilizer on their fields. But old superstitions about handling/contacting human waste resurfaced and they said that they would not put the waste on thier fields. They agreed to bury the waste at the bottom of the hill in a nearby field that one of the villagers offered for that purpose. The actual burying may not happen for some time as the pit is now empty. So who knows if that actually will happen? Did we really accomplish a lasting change?
Another part of maintaining the latrine is regular cleaning and washing the floor. Most of the village wanted to provide money to pay one of their own to do the work but two households refused to support the plan. I see that our main accomplishment may be the introduction of these ideas but the acceptance of them may be far in the future.
The easy thing to do is to throw money at a problem because it makes us feel good to share some of what we have with those that have so little. We can quickly go away feeling good about what we have done about making the world a better place. But as is so often the case the easy thing is also the wrong thing-pampers didn't fix anything in the village they made it worse. What the people need is hope for future which can be achieved only through their own efforts. Assisting them to find markets for their products and helping them to develop marketable skills might encourage their climb from poverty.
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
#13
Hi to all,
Well, we've finished up the volunteer part of our trip & we're in Guang Nan staying in a nice hotel with hot water, clean beds, internet & best of all, heat!!!! First night our internet didn't work & we had to go down to the desk in the a.m. and used the handy dandy talking machine Bekah gave us to tell we didn't have hot water so they turned it on for us by turning a switch located right under their desk & it worked!!! But we switched rooms so night #2 we had it all!! First time since we left home and boy are we loving it....
Guang Nan
This city is a new, neat & large town with a large sports arena in the center as well as a big gov't building...which may explain why it is so nice. The streets are wide lined with fancy tiled sidewalks and there must be t 10 -12 new buildings going up.
Mandarins
Now we've eaten mandarins in the country that speaks Mandarin.
Xanadu
Every heard of Xanadu--the most beautiful city that you can only reach by boat on a river that runs through a looong cave in a huge mountain??? Well, we went there. We went through three caves each was about the size of Mammoth Cave. Gorgeous. Many sections were lit up with colored lights. The boat was long and powered by a man standing on the end using a bamboo pole. No lifejackets --of course. In between the mountains, was the city--let's just say it was hardly the most beautiful and we saw trucks dumping load of gravel to use in the many building projects going on--well at least the boat ride was
most beautiful.
Food
Rice. Noodles--usually made of rice flour. Vegetables & roots--often ones we'd never seen or heard of--in various sauces (usually hot) & combinations. Small bits of meat usually mostly fat & egg omelets with greens. Sometimes all boiled together in a central hot pot full of soup. That's what we eat every day, every meal. Healthy--yes. Roger eagerly tries everything and enjoys most of it. Jane tries a little bit and enjoys less...but usually has been able to find Coke Zero and along with her nuts, peanut butter & m&m's is doing fine..... While in Guang Nan we tried to find a "western" meal. The clerk at the hotel desk just laughed. So why do we have so many Chinese restaurants in USA but they don't have any American here????
Well, we've finished up the volunteer part of our trip & we're in Guang Nan staying in a nice hotel with hot water, clean beds, internet & best of all, heat!!!! First night our internet didn't work & we had to go down to the desk in the a.m. and used the handy dandy talking machine Bekah gave us to tell we didn't have hot water so they turned it on for us by turning a switch located right under their desk & it worked!!! But we switched rooms so night #2 we had it all!! First time since we left home and boy are we loving it....
Guang Nan
This city is a new, neat & large town with a large sports arena in the center as well as a big gov't building...which may explain why it is so nice. The streets are wide lined with fancy tiled sidewalks and there must be t 10 -12 new buildings going up.
Mandarins
Now we've eaten mandarins in the country that speaks Mandarin.
Xanadu
Every heard of Xanadu--the most beautiful city that you can only reach by boat on a river that runs through a looong cave in a huge mountain??? Well, we went there. We went through three caves each was about the size of Mammoth Cave. Gorgeous. Many sections were lit up with colored lights. The boat was long and powered by a man standing on the end using a bamboo pole. No lifejackets --of course. In between the mountains, was the city--let's just say it was hardly the most beautiful and we saw trucks dumping load of gravel to use in the many building projects going on--well at least the boat ride was
most beautiful.
Food
Rice. Noodles--usually made of rice flour. Vegetables & roots--often ones we'd never seen or heard of--in various sauces (usually hot) & combinations. Small bits of meat usually mostly fat & egg omelets with greens. Sometimes all boiled together in a central hot pot full of soup. That's what we eat every day, every meal. Healthy--yes. Roger eagerly tries everything and enjoys most of it. Jane tries a little bit and enjoys less...but usually has been able to find Coke Zero and along with her nuts, peanut butter & m&m's is doing fine..... While in Guang Nan we tried to find a "western" meal. The clerk at the hotel desk just laughed. So why do we have so many Chinese restaurants in USA but they don't have any American here????
Hi-
Have enjoyed all the emails we've been getting from home. We really do feel like we are on the other side of the world--and after tomorrow--we'll be without Jenny, the Chinese-Canadian who has been interpreting for us and helping us make sense of lots of what we see around here. Better get starting doing some writing as I've gotten so far behind....
Leprosy
Fantastic gains in China! In 1980, the China gov't started giving lepers free medicine--partially thanks to the great work of a Chinese doctor who devoted his life to them and was the founder of HANDA which is the NGO that we have been traveling & working with here. They provide many services for the 157 eprosy colonies. So most of the colonies are now filled with only a few older people who have been grossly affected by the disease and will probably be the last generation to suffer greatly!!! It will take many years for their families to outlive the stigma attached & be allowed to work better ground or move to more prosperous areas but the future is bright!!!
Signs of Leprosy
Yup it is contagious but difficult to catch if your immune system is strong and you have proper hygiene...but if you see our eyebrows falling out & red blotches on our shoulders or back...let us know so we can get the proper meds that will immediately stop it!
Miao Tribe
One of the leprosy villages, Rao Ma Lu we visited had people from the Miao tribe. Their facial features were different as well as their language. It was a very small village with just 5 kids for me to assess. While Sophie and I ran them through the assessments, all the villagers except the men who had gone with Rog to check out latrine & their water supply, stood around us with large grins shouting at and nudging the child that was answering. Most of them knew so very little and were not going to any school. We identified the "most knowledgeable" and gave her the one book she could read as well as many word cards as she knew & put her in charge of teaching the others. After we left the village, I asked Sophie what the people were shouting at the children. She said, "Stupid." I wanted to go back and hug each of those kids and tell them they were not stupid--just unlucky to not have the privilege of an education!
The Weaver
Also in Rao Ma Lu, there was an old man who was so carefully & skillfully weaving a bird cage out of bamboo. He was missing several fingers and probably much of his feet by the looks of how his shoes fit. A bird cage. It struck me so odd that in this desperately poor village, someone with such handicaps would be weaving something of such beauty...so he could listen to the song of a bird. How many songs have I missed??
Face Washing
Living without running water is such a burden here. A clean face is a luxury. At Rao Ma Lu, we gave each woman a bag with soap & towel in it. Ask for a small bowl of water and I demonstrated both face and hand washing. After they got done laughing at me, they all got to work on their own faces. Suds & laughter overflowed! Such simple joys! We also gave them the washable menstrual pads --which embarrassed them--especially because Yuan (male) had to explain it to them because he was the only one who spoke Miao.
Advice from Sophie's Mom
When we were on top of one of the mountains, we got a phone signal so Sophie (22 Univ student who is volunteering) called her Mom. When I asked her what her Mom told her, she said, "Be independent and be brave." Sound advice.
Sign Painted on Wall
Large words are painted red on many of the walls in towns so I asked what they said: Less Children. Less Burden. Nothing like getting right to the point.
Equality between Men & Women
It's refreshing to see that there seems to be lots of equality between men & women. You see both caring for children, cooking, working in fields, building, etc...
No Market
It dawned on me as I was using yet another squat toilet...there is no market in China for Uncle John's Bathroom Readers!!!
Canola Fields
As we drove to a new village, we went by miles of the brightest yellow fields you can imagine: canola. I swear they glowed!
Graves
As you drive along the highway, often you go by grave sites. They are mounds of dirt usually with rock wall around & often with a large grave stone. In some areas, they dot the hillside. We're told choosing a grave site is very important. It usually faces SW and must be Feng Shui.
Still Building..
Even out here in the middle of no where, building is going on everywhere. We saw where they are blasting out a mountain to build a new railroad. Guess the building is in prep for that.
Facebook
Did you know there is no facebook in China...
Our Team
Here's the people we've been spending lots of time with:
Renay--born in China--now living in Canada--founder of Eco Village of Hope. Heart as big as the mountains around her which is supported by a clever mind that thinks anything can be done & she'll find the $$$$
Steve--from Oklahoma--has done humanitarian work for 25 years including spending the last 6 months in Zambia--has an incredible memory of multiple things he has studied--lots of common sense & stories
Jenny --born in China--now living in Canada--talented seamstress & pattern designer--thrilled to have raised lots of $$$ to help in her home land--creative & hardworking--totally enjoying the journey here
Sophie--Chinese 22 yr old Univ student hoping to be an elem teacher--first volunteer outing--immediate reppore with kids & me
Ong & OuYang- Chinese couple married one year--our translators. Both understand Chinese culture. OuYang is also seamstress so works with Jenny lots. Ong helps the guys. Both quiet & pleasant.
Yuan - Chinese HANDA worker who knows & loves the people in all the leprosy villages. Great at navigating through discussions & driving on these terrible mountainous & back roads. Love him.
Little Mothers/Daddies
All the little kids around the age of 8 - 10, walk around with babies on their back much of the time. But every so often, one of those little mommies or daddies crawl on my lap & let me rock them...allowing them to be the little kid they really are. A boy who is about 8, crawled on my lap at the village feast and though other kids laughed at him, he let me rock him for about ten minutes.
Created a Monster
Sophie & I have created a monster. The kids are now begging for us to do word flashcards for them. Sophie has been busy making up gobs of them & we've been handing them out to kids who can read them and telling them they know must teach others. The kids are also asking us to read to them and let them look at my Zoobooks. We a grand problem to have!
Flea Bites
Several of our team spent a night in the attic of one of the buildings as they wanted to get out of the cold--they ended up with lots of flea bites! Lucky for us, Rog & I stayed outside.
Scooter Lady
If you remember from an earlier writing, one of the older ladies has to move around on a scooter by using her hands and the ramp to her home was uphill, rocky & often muddy. I mentioned it to Renay and cementing her hill was put on the work list....and it got done!! Everyday I have visited her and her smile grows. Of course the cookies I take her has lots to do with it. Her village job is to hoe a large manure pile turning it so that it dries out. Several times that's where I find her...and feed her the cookie as her stubs which is all that is left of her hands, are so filthy...but seeing that grin just makes me forget that I'm in the middle of that manure pile too. One day as I was wondering why Anyone above would allow such things...two white butterflies circled her. Perhaps I need to remember, it's not where you are or what defects you must deal with...it's how happy you are that really counts...and her smile tells me she is a happy soul.
Blind Lady
After I was in the village for several days, I saw a very old, blind lady being escorted to an old, adobe broken down building. I followed. Shockingly horrid conditions. Bed looked like it had not been washed in years. Small area where a fire could be built. The rest filled with junk. How anyone could live in there is beyond me. When I checked with others, her story was: her son had died, his wife had remarried & her husband had kicked her out. They take only food to her.
No Water
No water is the biggest problem for Jui Dao Ma Lu. Currently they rely on rain collection but since this province has had a drought for three years, they now have to truck in water which cost lots of $$$$$...so wasting water on washing your body or clothes just isn't happening.
Village Meeting
The morning before we left Jui Dao Ma Lu, most of the men & women & our team had a meeting. Latrine cleaning, possible gov't well drilling program, sewing project expectations and my assessment results were some of the topics. With all the yaking, translating & grunting going on, it reminded me of what I always thought a POW WOW must of been like!
Saying Good Bye
It's never easy to say good bye & turn and walk away...especially when you know so much more needs to be done to make life better...but the time came. LaBoa, the old man who had let us use his house, sat on his door step and cried. We were all pretty quiet on the way to QuiBei--tired & dirty from all the packing & last minute jobs--and wishing we could have done more...
Ma Lu Tang
After a good night sleep in a hotel with running hot water, we jumped back in the truck & headed for Ma Lu Tang which is made up of about 135 people of the Yao tribe. It was the biggest & wealthiest of all the colonies we would visit but without water. They make their money by selling tobacco to the gov't. Several families were planting the seeds when we arrived. The adults filled trays, the kids put one seed in each small section & an adult then carefully placed them in a raised bed filled with water & later covered by a green house. After they sprout, they'll be hand planted in fields. Rog checked out latrines & cisterns making recommendations for future projects. I finally got to go into a school, meet the teacher & give her all the supplies I'd bought in Kunming. Since her classroom was nearly void of any teaching materials--except for the board she had painted black & some small bits of chalk--you can imagine the grin on her face! The kids were not back in school from break yet so missed out there but the teacher said that she had Gr 2 & 5 this year as they only begin a new class every three years. Next year she'll have Gr 3 & 6 and the following 1 & 4. This is the village the ECVS is planning to build them a new school next year and possible with Smart Boards. They also hope to hire teachers so kids can go up to 9th grade and then I guess the trick will be to get the school Gov't approved so the kids can go on to HS. But knowing how head strong Renay can be when she sets her mind to something...I think she'll do it!!!! Finally, we helped Jenny pass out the hygiene bags & reusuable menstrual pads to all the women...and granola bars to the kids.
Chinese Education
Here's what I learned from Sophie about Chinese education: Through Gr 6 is free for all, Gr 7- 9 families must pay for books, uniforms & if from villages, room & board. HS is up to families to pay for. Most villagers don't value education & need the help at home besides they can't afford the expense so Gr 6 is usually the end for them...and often their attendance is poor due to working in fields.
Discipline in the Classroom
Here's what Sophie said about discipline: Most children behave but if they don't--the first time the teacher will hit them on the hands--next time stand them by a wall or outside the door--next time call the parentand the 4th time, they are expelled from the school and most likely that is the end of their education. Most teachers are very strict. Class size is usually about 30 though Sophie remember 60 in her 1st grade.
Receipts
Yuan dilengetly gets receipts for everything he buys. Many times they have to be hand written and we sit and wait & wait...Yuan who usually has so much patience got a bit ansy while waiting for a young girl to write the receipt and mumbled, "Her mother said she should go to school but she said she'd rather herd the pigs but now she can't even count to 10!"
Luo Song Di
Our final village to visit was Yuan home village. It too is in the middle of no where but has wonderful river flowing through it...probably the Gov't didn't check it out before moving the lepers to that area!! Yuan's family welcomed all of us with open arms and prepared a feast of many of the foods they grew. Yuan's old uncle?? delighted us with his humourous & touching remarks. He handed a manderine to Rog & I and told us it was his way of thanking USA for helping them in WWII. He gave another to Jenny & Renay in thanks for Dr. Bethune, a Canadian doctor who aided many of Chinese injured in WWII. He offered Rog some home brew which Rog bravely slugged down as they studied his reaction--a large grin & claimed it went down smoothly. We also visited the school which had just been built last year & the kids were there!!!--Gr 1 & 4 (they also started a new class every 3 yrs). We again showered them with teaching supplies as the kids curiously looked on. The teacher (who himself only had a Gr 2 educ) took us down to his house & we sat around a fire as we asked him questions--the whole time his classes just sat in their rooms & read--which I heard happened often as the teacher also had a small restrurant business so if anyone stopped by to eat--he left the classroom to cook for them. He said it was very difficult for him to teach two grades so he only taught the very basics. He also said many kids who could come choose to go to another school a bit farther away...wonder why??? He proudly showed us his home which was very neat & clean and his swimming pool--diverted river water!! How cool is that!!! When then went to the town meeting place where Yuan had gathered most of the women so we could hand out the hygiene stuff. Then we headed to the upper part of the village to hand out more. In all we've handed out 126 bags of the 130 we packed!! Each filled with toothbrush, paste, towels, soap, nail clippers, Qtips, lotion, 6 underwear & washable pads for those who need them. We made one more stop to say good bye to Yuan's mom...when I hugged her she grabbed me &gave me a huge smack on both my cheeks making her hat fall off which made everyone laugh. Then it seemed the older women--especially those most deformed--lined up for their hug which I gladly gave--knocking a few more hats off. As we drove off, I could almost feel the pride the whole village had knowing the Yuan was one of theirs!!!
And as I sat around the fire with Yuan's family, another with the teacher, and so many times with many villagers...I knew that we had really experienced things in the bowel of China that no "normal tourist" could ...so I am so glad we are not the "normal tourist"......maybe a bit crazy & uncomfortable & unsure of what's going to happen next....but truly blessed.
Have enjoyed all the emails we've been getting from home. We really do feel like we are on the other side of the world--and after tomorrow--we'll be without Jenny, the Chinese-Canadian who has been interpreting for us and helping us make sense of lots of what we see around here. Better get starting doing some writing as I've gotten so far behind....
Leprosy
Fantastic gains in China! In 1980, the China gov't started giving lepers free medicine--partially thanks to the great work of a Chinese doctor who devoted his life to them and was the founder of HANDA which is the NGO that we have been traveling & working with here. They provide many services for the 157 eprosy colonies. So most of the colonies are now filled with only a few older people who have been grossly affected by the disease and will probably be the last generation to suffer greatly!!! It will take many years for their families to outlive the stigma attached & be allowed to work better ground or move to more prosperous areas but the future is bright!!!
Signs of Leprosy
Yup it is contagious but difficult to catch if your immune system is strong and you have proper hygiene...but if you see our eyebrows falling out & red blotches on our shoulders or back...let us know so we can get the proper meds that will immediately stop it!
Miao Tribe
One of the leprosy villages, Rao Ma Lu we visited had people from the Miao tribe. Their facial features were different as well as their language. It was a very small village with just 5 kids for me to assess. While Sophie and I ran them through the assessments, all the villagers except the men who had gone with Rog to check out latrine & their water supply, stood around us with large grins shouting at and nudging the child that was answering. Most of them knew so very little and were not going to any school. We identified the "most knowledgeable" and gave her the one book she could read as well as many word cards as she knew & put her in charge of teaching the others. After we left the village, I asked Sophie what the people were shouting at the children. She said, "Stupid." I wanted to go back and hug each of those kids and tell them they were not stupid--just unlucky to not have the privilege of an education!
The Weaver
Also in Rao Ma Lu, there was an old man who was so carefully & skillfully weaving a bird cage out of bamboo. He was missing several fingers and probably much of his feet by the looks of how his shoes fit. A bird cage. It struck me so odd that in this desperately poor village, someone with such handicaps would be weaving something of such beauty...so he could listen to the song of a bird. How many songs have I missed??
Face Washing
Living without running water is such a burden here. A clean face is a luxury. At Rao Ma Lu, we gave each woman a bag with soap & towel in it. Ask for a small bowl of water and I demonstrated both face and hand washing. After they got done laughing at me, they all got to work on their own faces. Suds & laughter overflowed! Such simple joys! We also gave them the washable menstrual pads --which embarrassed them--especially because Yuan (male) had to explain it to them because he was the only one who spoke Miao.
Advice from Sophie's Mom
When we were on top of one of the mountains, we got a phone signal so Sophie (22 Univ student who is volunteering) called her Mom. When I asked her what her Mom told her, she said, "Be independent and be brave." Sound advice.
Sign Painted on Wall
Large words are painted red on many of the walls in towns so I asked what they said: Less Children. Less Burden. Nothing like getting right to the point.
Equality between Men & Women
It's refreshing to see that there seems to be lots of equality between men & women. You see both caring for children, cooking, working in fields, building, etc...
No Market
It dawned on me as I was using yet another squat toilet...there is no market in China for Uncle John's Bathroom Readers!!!
Canola Fields
As we drove to a new village, we went by miles of the brightest yellow fields you can imagine: canola. I swear they glowed!
Graves
As you drive along the highway, often you go by grave sites. They are mounds of dirt usually with rock wall around & often with a large grave stone. In some areas, they dot the hillside. We're told choosing a grave site is very important. It usually faces SW and must be Feng Shui.
Still Building..
Even out here in the middle of no where, building is going on everywhere. We saw where they are blasting out a mountain to build a new railroad. Guess the building is in prep for that.
Did you know there is no facebook in China...
Our Team
Here's the people we've been spending lots of time with:
Renay--born in China--now living in Canada--founder of Eco Village of Hope. Heart as big as the mountains around her which is supported by a clever mind that thinks anything can be done & she'll find the $$$$
Steve--from Oklahoma--has done humanitarian work for 25 years including spending the last 6 months in Zambia--has an incredible memory of multiple things he has studied--lots of common sense & stories
Jenny --born in China--now living in Canada--talented seamstress & pattern designer--thrilled to have raised lots of $$$ to help in her home land--creative & hardworking--totally enjoying the journey here
Sophie--Chinese 22 yr old Univ student hoping to be an elem teacher--first volunteer outing--immediate reppore with kids & me
Ong & OuYang- Chinese couple married one year--our translators. Both understand Chinese culture. OuYang is also seamstress so works with Jenny lots. Ong helps the guys. Both quiet & pleasant.
Yuan - Chinese HANDA worker who knows & loves the people in all the leprosy villages. Great at navigating through discussions & driving on these terrible mountainous & back roads. Love him.
Little Mothers/Daddies
All the little kids around the age of 8 - 10, walk around with babies on their back much of the time. But every so often, one of those little mommies or daddies crawl on my lap & let me rock them...allowing them to be the little kid they really are. A boy who is about 8, crawled on my lap at the village feast and though other kids laughed at him, he let me rock him for about ten minutes.
Created a Monster
Sophie & I have created a monster. The kids are now begging for us to do word flashcards for them. Sophie has been busy making up gobs of them & we've been handing them out to kids who can read them and telling them they know must teach others. The kids are also asking us to read to them and let them look at my Zoobooks. We a grand problem to have!
Flea Bites
Several of our team spent a night in the attic of one of the buildings as they wanted to get out of the cold--they ended up with lots of flea bites! Lucky for us, Rog & I stayed outside.
Scooter Lady
If you remember from an earlier writing, one of the older ladies has to move around on a scooter by using her hands and the ramp to her home was uphill, rocky & often muddy. I mentioned it to Renay and cementing her hill was put on the work list....and it got done!! Everyday I have visited her and her smile grows. Of course the cookies I take her has lots to do with it. Her village job is to hoe a large manure pile turning it so that it dries out. Several times that's where I find her...and feed her the cookie as her stubs which is all that is left of her hands, are so filthy...but seeing that grin just makes me forget that I'm in the middle of that manure pile too. One day as I was wondering why Anyone above would allow such things...two white butterflies circled her. Perhaps I need to remember, it's not where you are or what defects you must deal with...it's how happy you are that really counts...and her smile tells me she is a happy soul.
Blind Lady
After I was in the village for several days, I saw a very old, blind lady being escorted to an old, adobe broken down building. I followed. Shockingly horrid conditions. Bed looked like it had not been washed in years. Small area where a fire could be built. The rest filled with junk. How anyone could live in there is beyond me. When I checked with others, her story was: her son had died, his wife had remarried & her husband had kicked her out. They take only food to her.
No Water
No water is the biggest problem for Jui Dao Ma Lu. Currently they rely on rain collection but since this province has had a drought for three years, they now have to truck in water which cost lots of $$$$$...so wasting water on washing your body or clothes just isn't happening.
Village Meeting
The morning before we left Jui Dao Ma Lu, most of the men & women & our team had a meeting. Latrine cleaning, possible gov't well drilling program, sewing project expectations and my assessment results were some of the topics. With all the yaking, translating & grunting going on, it reminded me of what I always thought a POW WOW must of been like!
Saying Good Bye
It's never easy to say good bye & turn and walk away...especially when you know so much more needs to be done to make life better...but the time came. LaBoa, the old man who had let us use his house, sat on his door step and cried. We were all pretty quiet on the way to QuiBei--tired & dirty from all the packing & last minute jobs--and wishing we could have done more...
Ma Lu Tang
After a good night sleep in a hotel with running hot water, we jumped back in the truck & headed for Ma Lu Tang which is made up of about 135 people of the Yao tribe. It was the biggest & wealthiest of all the colonies we would visit but without water. They make their money by selling tobacco to the gov't. Several families were planting the seeds when we arrived. The adults filled trays, the kids put one seed in each small section & an adult then carefully placed them in a raised bed filled with water & later covered by a green house. After they sprout, they'll be hand planted in fields. Rog checked out latrines & cisterns making recommendations for future projects. I finally got to go into a school, meet the teacher & give her all the supplies I'd bought in Kunming. Since her classroom was nearly void of any teaching materials--except for the board she had painted black & some small bits of chalk--you can imagine the grin on her face! The kids were not back in school from break yet so missed out there but the teacher said that she had Gr 2 & 5 this year as they only begin a new class every three years. Next year she'll have Gr 3 & 6 and the following 1 & 4. This is the village the ECVS is planning to build them a new school next year and possible with Smart Boards. They also hope to hire teachers so kids can go up to 9th grade and then I guess the trick will be to get the school Gov't approved so the kids can go on to HS. But knowing how head strong Renay can be when she sets her mind to something...I think she'll do it!!!! Finally, we helped Jenny pass out the hygiene bags & reusuable menstrual pads to all the women...and granola bars to the kids.
Chinese Education
Here's what I learned from Sophie about Chinese education: Through Gr 6 is free for all, Gr 7- 9 families must pay for books, uniforms & if from villages, room & board. HS is up to families to pay for. Most villagers don't value education & need the help at home besides they can't afford the expense so Gr 6 is usually the end for them...and often their attendance is poor due to working in fields.
Discipline in the Classroom
Here's what Sophie said about discipline: Most children behave but if they don't--the first time the teacher will hit them on the hands--next time stand them by a wall or outside the door--next time call the parentand the 4th time, they are expelled from the school and most likely that is the end of their education. Most teachers are very strict. Class size is usually about 30 though Sophie remember 60 in her 1st grade.
Receipts
Yuan dilengetly gets receipts for everything he buys. Many times they have to be hand written and we sit and wait & wait...Yuan who usually has so much patience got a bit ansy while waiting for a young girl to write the receipt and mumbled, "Her mother said she should go to school but she said she'd rather herd the pigs but now she can't even count to 10!"
Luo Song Di
Our final village to visit was Yuan home village. It too is in the middle of no where but has wonderful river flowing through it...probably the Gov't didn't check it out before moving the lepers to that area!! Yuan's family welcomed all of us with open arms and prepared a feast of many of the foods they grew. Yuan's old uncle?? delighted us with his humourous & touching remarks. He handed a manderine to Rog & I and told us it was his way of thanking USA for helping them in WWII. He gave another to Jenny & Renay in thanks for Dr. Bethune, a Canadian doctor who aided many of Chinese injured in WWII. He offered Rog some home brew which Rog bravely slugged down as they studied his reaction--a large grin & claimed it went down smoothly. We also visited the school which had just been built last year & the kids were there!!!--Gr 1 & 4 (they also started a new class every 3 yrs). We again showered them with teaching supplies as the kids curiously looked on. The teacher (who himself only had a Gr 2 educ) took us down to his house & we sat around a fire as we asked him questions--the whole time his classes just sat in their rooms & read--which I heard happened often as the teacher also had a small restrurant business so if anyone stopped by to eat--he left the classroom to cook for them. He said it was very difficult for him to teach two grades so he only taught the very basics. He also said many kids who could come choose to go to another school a bit farther away...wonder why??? He proudly showed us his home which was very neat & clean and his swimming pool--diverted river water!! How cool is that!!! When then went to the town meeting place where Yuan had gathered most of the women so we could hand out the hygiene stuff. Then we headed to the upper part of the village to hand out more. In all we've handed out 126 bags of the 130 we packed!! Each filled with toothbrush, paste, towels, soap, nail clippers, Qtips, lotion, 6 underwear & washable pads for those who need them. We made one more stop to say good bye to Yuan's mom...when I hugged her she grabbed me &gave me a huge smack on both my cheeks making her hat fall off which made everyone laugh. Then it seemed the older women--especially those most deformed--lined up for their hug which I gladly gave--knocking a few more hats off. As we drove off, I could almost feel the pride the whole village had knowing the Yuan was one of theirs!!!
And as I sat around the fire with Yuan's family, another with the teacher, and so many times with many villagers...I knew that we had really experienced things in the bowel of China that no "normal tourist" could ...so I am so glad we are not the "normal tourist"......maybe a bit crazy & uncomfortable & unsure of what's going to happen next....but truly blessed.
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Hi from Rog again--
New Moon Festival
We woke to loud music about 4 am on the second day of the second month ( chinese calendar). The villagers had been up late and dogs had been barking much of the night along with roosters crowing so it felt like a long night with many interruptions. After breakfast of tea and oatmeal Steve and Rog worked on screening the end of the latrine pit. Before we got much done we were invited to come and eat with the men at Xiang's house. We were offered some of the choice parts of the meal( chicken head, chicken foot) but they were not offended when we passed on those. Another dish had chicken intestines mixed with blood which was not my favorite. The deep fried bread and pumpkin were good and easy to grab with my chopsticks. Before eating the old man ( La Boa) took several bowls of food and placed them on the mantle as an offering to the ancestors then squatted and sang as he slowly spooned rice from another bowl onto a very short stool. I think he was asking the ancestors to help bring rain for the crop they hope to plant soon. After much feasting and toasting with rice wine (tasted a lot like firewater to me), Steve and Roger went back to our job but only to be pulled away to another house and another meal with almost all the same village men. Again much toasting and some cigarettes (its ok to just light it and let it burn) and we went back to finish our job.
Bull Fight
Good thing it was a small job because we were next invited to go to the bullfight which was in the next village. We walked part way then a motorcycle from the village picked me up and I rode the rest of the way sandwiched between two of the village men. There was a country fair atmosphere with food booths and large crowds of people gathered about the fenced in area. Many bulls were tied about the grounds and a couple were led into the ring where groups of men talked and probably decided which one would win the fight. Then the bulls were led close to each other and their lead ropes were removed. After a brief hesitation they lowered their heads and locked horns close to the ground. Pushing and straining with all they had they tried to force the other one back until one gave up and turning away quickly made an escape. No damage...just a fun way to spend the day for people who usually spend day after day tending their mountain terraces. After Rog left Jane stayed for a while. Being the only white person around, she got lots of stares. One lady came up to her and jabbered away as though they were best friends. After quite a long wait to see another bull fight, Jane got up close to the fence to get pictures. She got one taken when suddenly she was hanked back and pulled away--it was her friend "saving her"--so much for getting pictures!! Sure made her friend feel proud.
Motorcycle Accident
Leaving the bullfight we once again headed to Rao Ma Lu. On the way we came upon a motorcycle lying on its side and in the middle of the road was an unconscious man lying face down. We stayed with him until he came around and helped him off the road. When an ambulance was on its way we left him to the local population. The man had a large gash above on his forehead which looked very bad but he probably will be fine after some stitches. We were annoyed that a man and his wife were close by the scene of the accident but had been afraid to get involved so stayed away until we arrived. When asked for water and a blanket they refused to help. Our interpreter said that they were very selfish people. They had let him lay in the middle of the road for about three minutes before we got there. Later I found out once the man was conscious they realized that they actually knew the man.
Stereotype
The people we have met and seen do not fit the stereotype that I somehow have visualized of the chinese people. Why would that surprise me? I probably got it from watching cartoons and comic strips and an occasional picture in the paper or TV. Instead we see chinese of many shapes and shades with features that are as varied as the people we see in America. Part of the joy of traveling is finding out not how we are different but how much we are alike. The people do not seem to be under scrutiny and seem also to be able to conduct business as they choose. That is another surprise as I expected much more control over their every lives.
New Moon Festival
We woke to loud music about 4 am on the second day of the second month ( chinese calendar). The villagers had been up late and dogs had been barking much of the night along with roosters crowing so it felt like a long night with many interruptions. After breakfast of tea and oatmeal Steve and Rog worked on screening the end of the latrine pit. Before we got much done we were invited to come and eat with the men at Xiang's house. We were offered some of the choice parts of the meal( chicken head, chicken foot) but they were not offended when we passed on those. Another dish had chicken intestines mixed with blood which was not my favorite. The deep fried bread and pumpkin were good and easy to grab with my chopsticks. Before eating the old man ( La Boa) took several bowls of food and placed them on the mantle as an offering to the ancestors then squatted and sang as he slowly spooned rice from another bowl onto a very short stool. I think he was asking the ancestors to help bring rain for the crop they hope to plant soon. After much feasting and toasting with rice wine (tasted a lot like firewater to me), Steve and Roger went back to our job but only to be pulled away to another house and another meal with almost all the same village men. Again much toasting and some cigarettes (its ok to just light it and let it burn) and we went back to finish our job.
Bull Fight
Good thing it was a small job because we were next invited to go to the bullfight which was in the next village. We walked part way then a motorcycle from the village picked me up and I rode the rest of the way sandwiched between two of the village men. There was a country fair atmosphere with food booths and large crowds of people gathered about the fenced in area. Many bulls were tied about the grounds and a couple were led into the ring where groups of men talked and probably decided which one would win the fight. Then the bulls were led close to each other and their lead ropes were removed. After a brief hesitation they lowered their heads and locked horns close to the ground. Pushing and straining with all they had they tried to force the other one back until one gave up and turning away quickly made an escape. No damage...just a fun way to spend the day for people who usually spend day after day tending their mountain terraces. After Rog left Jane stayed for a while. Being the only white person around, she got lots of stares. One lady came up to her and jabbered away as though they were best friends. After quite a long wait to see another bull fight, Jane got up close to the fence to get pictures. She got one taken when suddenly she was hanked back and pulled away--it was her friend "saving her"--so much for getting pictures!! Sure made her friend feel proud.
Motorcycle Accident
Leaving the bullfight we once again headed to Rao Ma Lu. On the way we came upon a motorcycle lying on its side and in the middle of the road was an unconscious man lying face down. We stayed with him until he came around and helped him off the road. When an ambulance was on its way we left him to the local population. The man had a large gash above on his forehead which looked very bad but he probably will be fine after some stitches. We were annoyed that a man and his wife were close by the scene of the accident but had been afraid to get involved so stayed away until we arrived. When asked for water and a blanket they refused to help. Our interpreter said that they were very selfish people. They had let him lay in the middle of the road for about three minutes before we got there. Later I found out once the man was conscious they realized that they actually knew the man.
Stereotype
The people we have met and seen do not fit the stereotype that I somehow have visualized of the chinese people. Why would that surprise me? I probably got it from watching cartoons and comic strips and an occasional picture in the paper or TV. Instead we see chinese of many shapes and shades with features that are as varied as the people we see in America. Part of the joy of traveling is finding out not how we are different but how much we are alike. The people do not seem to be under scrutiny and seem also to be able to conduct business as they choose. That is another surprise as I expected much more control over their every lives.
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Hi all (from Rog),
I am back in Qiu Bei at the hotel. All is well here & hope there too.
Leaving Jui Dao Ma Lu
We had too many people to make it to town with just one trip so Yuan brought Steve, Ong, Sophie, and me then went back to get the rest of our crew. Our 1 !/2 hour trip to town was slowed by many animals in the road and a market in a town that we came through. The people we slowly drove past in the market town just stared at me like I was an alien (well, I guess that is what I am here!)
Village Farewell Festival
Last night we ate dinner in the village where we have been tenting. The men sat around one small table on short stools and we were served with bowl after bowl of food that everyone just helped themselves to using their chopsticks. There were plain dishes (potatoes, yams, tofu, and fried bread) that were intended for dipping in a special hot sauce. Also spicy fish (carp?) complete with heads, greens, pork, chicken feet (& we know what they'd been walking through), roots, and rice. There was also a dish of chicken livers mixed with chicken blood (not my favorite). Jenny brought smoked salmon & we'd bought fresh tangerines at the market to pass out. Bet you know what Jane ate. This was all preceded with cigarettes being passed all around (to help chase away the flies?) and more bowls filled with beer for each person. After many toasts we were told that the next one was "bottoms up" and the bowls were refilled. Some of the men played a drinking game a bit like rock, paper scissors where the loser had to take a drink. They wanted us to play, too, but after one short round we were ready to call it quits for the night even though it wasn't late.
Final Village Meeting
We met with the villagers again this morning and they seemed to be very happy with the help we have given them. We built solar lights, built a cover over the latrine, drilled for water, played with and read to the kids, and Jenny taught the women to sew and some of them got sewing machines. Xiang, the young man that I trained to put solar lights together, was very appreciative. He shook my hand and even hugged me as we said goodbye. He put five solar lights together while we were there and yesterday we took three of the lights to a village where there is no electricity.
Le Hong Ka
That village (with no electricity) was in a beautiful valley with a good supply of water (coming from a seep in the side of the mountain). The people and children were very clean and their crops looked good even though they have had three years of drought. The leader of the village started raising goats four years ago. They now have about 100 goats that look very healthy. The men took us to visit a cave near their village. We were interested to see what possibilities there might be for water inside the mountain. It was steep and dark with stalactites and stagmites, curtains, and combs formed by the action of water in the limestone cave. I didn't see any life in the cave, but Steve saw a couple of wood rats about a foot long! Jane assessed the children's education level (which was higher than any other children she'd assessed) and left word cards & books so the oldest girl can teach the younger ones. Jan also talked to the ladies about hygiene and such...and they were very responsive to wearing the washable menstral pads. Though this has been the nicest village we'd visited, they had lost 7 of their youth recently to city life. As we left, many of the people followed us up a steep trail to the the road where we had parked the SUV and we passed out a few treats as we said good bye. Someone from the village had put a large bag of hard boiled eggs (still warm!) in the car for us to enjoy on our trip back. It was very thoughtful and we enjoyed them as we bounced along the rough mountain road overlooking beautiful valleys and terraces. If our driver, Yuan hadn't proven himself to be very careful we might have been scared as the road (if you can call it that) was narrow with no guard rails and the drop was often 50- 100 ft. -- sometimes several hundred feet.
I am back in Qiu Bei at the hotel. All is well here & hope there too.
Leaving Jui Dao Ma Lu
We had too many people to make it to town with just one trip so Yuan brought Steve, Ong, Sophie, and me then went back to get the rest of our crew. Our 1 !/2 hour trip to town was slowed by many animals in the road and a market in a town that we came through. The people we slowly drove past in the market town just stared at me like I was an alien (well, I guess that is what I am here!)
Village Farewell Festival
Last night we ate dinner in the village where we have been tenting. The men sat around one small table on short stools and we were served with bowl after bowl of food that everyone just helped themselves to using their chopsticks. There were plain dishes (potatoes, yams, tofu, and fried bread) that were intended for dipping in a special hot sauce. Also spicy fish (carp?) complete with heads, greens, pork, chicken feet (& we know what they'd been walking through), roots, and rice. There was also a dish of chicken livers mixed with chicken blood (not my favorite). Jenny brought smoked salmon & we'd bought fresh tangerines at the market to pass out. Bet you know what Jane ate. This was all preceded with cigarettes being passed all around (to help chase away the flies?) and more bowls filled with beer for each person. After many toasts we were told that the next one was "bottoms up" and the bowls were refilled. Some of the men played a drinking game a bit like rock, paper scissors where the loser had to take a drink. They wanted us to play, too, but after one short round we were ready to call it quits for the night even though it wasn't late.
Final Village Meeting
We met with the villagers again this morning and they seemed to be very happy with the help we have given them. We built solar lights, built a cover over the latrine, drilled for water, played with and read to the kids, and Jenny taught the women to sew and some of them got sewing machines. Xiang, the young man that I trained to put solar lights together, was very appreciative. He shook my hand and even hugged me as we said goodbye. He put five solar lights together while we were there and yesterday we took three of the lights to a village where there is no electricity.
Le Hong Ka
That village (with no electricity) was in a beautiful valley with a good supply of water (coming from a seep in the side of the mountain). The people and children were very clean and their crops looked good even though they have had three years of drought. The leader of the village started raising goats four years ago. They now have about 100 goats that look very healthy. The men took us to visit a cave near their village. We were interested to see what possibilities there might be for water inside the mountain. It was steep and dark with stalactites and stagmites, curtains, and combs formed by the action of water in the limestone cave. I didn't see any life in the cave, but Steve saw a couple of wood rats about a foot long! Jane assessed the children's education level (which was higher than any other children she'd assessed) and left word cards & books so the oldest girl can teach the younger ones. Jan also talked to the ladies about hygiene and such...and they were very responsive to wearing the washable menstral pads. Though this has been the nicest village we'd visited, they had lost 7 of their youth recently to city life. As we left, many of the people followed us up a steep trail to the the road where we had parked the SUV and we passed out a few treats as we said good bye. Someone from the village had put a large bag of hard boiled eggs (still warm!) in the car for us to enjoy on our trip back. It was very thoughtful and we enjoyed them as we bounced along the rough mountain road overlooking beautiful valleys and terraces. If our driver, Yuan hadn't proven himself to be very careful we might have been scared as the road (if you can call it that) was narrow with no guard rails and the drop was often 50- 100 ft. -- sometimes several hundred feet.
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Hello from the other side of the world!
Well--as things so often happen--we had to make another run to town as Jenny (from Canada) got bit by one of the villagers dogs. Luckily she had on two pairs of pants but it still broke her skin so we thought it best to come to the nearest hospital. So the women jumped in the jeep with Yuan & off we went. By the time we got to Qiu Bei, everything was closed so we'll go ASAP in a.m.. She is feeling fine & has a call into her own doctor so we aren't too worried. But while we're here...
The Wash
We quickly gathered up the filthiest clothes to wash in Qiu Bei--and filthiest is being a bit under descriptive. The lady at our hotel took us up to the roof where they had what you might call "half wash machines" as first you put clothes in to wash, then take them out and put in the spinner, next take them out and put in tub of rinse water, whosh them around and finally put them back into spinner. We hung them out on the lines and cross our fingers that they won't blow away and are mostly dry by a.m.... We also each took a hot shower marveling about how wonderful it felt.
Well--as things so often happen--we had to make another run to town as Jenny (from Canada) got bit by one of the villagers dogs. Luckily she had on two pairs of pants but it still broke her skin so we thought it best to come to the nearest hospital. So the women jumped in the jeep with Yuan & off we went. By the time we got to Qiu Bei, everything was closed so we'll go ASAP in a.m.. She is feeling fine & has a call into her own doctor so we aren't too worried. But while we're here...
The Wash
We quickly gathered up the filthiest clothes to wash in Qiu Bei--and filthiest is being a bit under descriptive. The lady at our hotel took us up to the roof where they had what you might call "half wash machines" as first you put clothes in to wash, then take them out and put in the spinner, next take them out and put in tub of rinse water, whosh them around and finally put them back into spinner. We hung them out on the lines and cross our fingers that they won't blow away and are mostly dry by a.m.... We also each took a hot shower marveling about how wonderful it felt.
Lesson Learned
I am learning that it is not possible to come into a place and make a change that is lasting unless the people really want that change to happen. Our efforts are all well intentioned but will fail over time unless the villagers take ownership of the plan and actually do it themselves with guidance and encouragement (money and /or materials). Its hard to do because doing "for" them is not good and guiding them to change takes so long that it feels like everything is in slow motion. Previous "help" was the introduction of pampers to the village. Now their latrine is plugged with pampers and a new problem has to be solved.
The Latrine
When we first arrived in Jui Duo Ma La, I (& all the other girls) could not force ourselves to go into the latrine. I have seen some pretty gross sites but this topped my list. The shovel was a much better option. At the village meeting, when asked what we could do to help--the latrine ranked right after the well. So once the well project came to a halt due to hitting rock, the latrine was next. So....our men joined the village men and dug in....literally. Can't imagine a shittier job! A hole was dug to put the pampers & liquids in. An overflow caused quite a raucous as the chickens where running through it--but was resolved by quickly covering it with dirt. Then the solids were put into another hole. If they'd leave the solids covered for about a year, they could then use it as fertilizer...but in their culture, one never uses human waste for anything...so more holes will be dug later. Next the guys covered the shit pit with corrugated mat'l so rain wouldn't get in & a pipe was put in so the liquids would drain out into a hole. Finally, using cement, they built a spot to use if you were only going #1. With pride, the villagers cleaned the latrine with bleach water and re-painted the signs on the outside indicating Male & Female--in both Chinese & English.
Outdoor latrine at school in southwest Yunnan Provincechinaschoolsfoundation.org:
Dinner & Lucky
(Warning: Karen & Terri should not read this!!)
It's true. They eat dog. I happened to look around just as a man was skinning one while a live dog circled him. Then he took it over & holding its tail, put it down in a hole where a fire had been built. Many kids gathered round the hole to watch. Several hours later, Yuan & Steve went to a villagers home to indulge. Roger declined. Steve later told us that the men were celebrating the completion of the latrine improvements. So we named that dog, Dinner & all the rest (around 15) Lucky...though we figured one should be called Next.
TP
Without a doubt, I have used much more TP on runny noses than in the on my behind!!! I actually carry a bag on my arm with a roll of TP so while I'm working or playing with kids, I can pass out TP & they can throw the used wad in the bag....I need a third hand just to deal with their runny noses!!!
Communication
No wonder the UN finds it so difficult to get anything done!! In this one little village, it's been a struggle to communicate. It goes like this: villager speaks in their dialect, Yuan tells our translator who then tell us. Then the reverse, English to translator, to Yuan to villagers--whose way of thinking and customs often twist or change what they hear. Several time there have been misunderstandings...and I can certainly understand why!!!
Superstitions
We've learned about so many superstitions held by some Chinese. Examples: Leaving your chopsticks in your dish means the food was not good enough for even the dead. After childbirth, a woman cannot enter another person's house until the baby is a month old.
The Girl with Sore Eyes
One of the little village girls has swollen & infected eyes. I asked her if they hurt & for how long. She said they have been hurting her for more than a year. I took her to Yuan to see what he could find out. He said her father tells everyone her eyes are like that because she cried so much as a baby. That made me want to cry!! Yuan took pictures & will try to get some meds to her.
Sewing Progress
Jenny now has 4 women excited about sewing! She has offered each a sewing machine in exchange for making 40 pants or 20 coats (or any combination) for other villagers. And they are now diligently working...some with babies strapped to their back...while their encouraging husbands do the cooking so they can sew longer!!! Success!!!
Student Teacher
Sophie (Chinese name: Li Yoo Xiang) is a great student teacher! She is in her second year at Yunnan Univ and hopes to be an elementary teacher. She's a natural. She gets rights down to the kids level, smiles & encourages them. Takes my direction and runs with it. Her enthusiasm overflows!
Learning Progress
With joy & pride in their faces, two little boys who learned to write the first characters of their names, went racing to show Yuan. They had practiced & practiced while several of the villagers looked over their shoulders and encouraged them. There was lots of joy & pride on Sophie & my face too! Another major thrill was when two older boys (who hadn't wanted to be part of our "class") moseyed over to check out what we were doing and ending up reading to some of the younger children. And the younger kids actually asked Yong to read aloud to them today!!!!
Peanuts for Counting
This is actually winter break for the kids...so I feel a bit quilty asking them to do school work...besides working in the fields...so I usually give them a treat...like peanuts for counting. I say a number...they say the next three numbers & get a peanut. We both get smiles.
Bio Sand Filter
A bio sand filter is up & running thanks to Steve. After carefully explaining how contaminated water that has run through the layers of rocks, gravel & sand can actually come out ready to drink, the villagers gladly helped him put on together. Hopefully they'll build more themselves!
Solar Light Kits
Rog has successfully taught Seurg to put the solar light kits together. He as completed 5 now & EVHS will pay him & take them to the village without electricity. Next time HANDA comes to his village, they'll bring more so he can continue to earn $$. Seurg will try to find other markets as well.
Debriefing Meeting
After the failed well drilling & latrine overflow, the debriefing meeting that we have each night was kind of a downer. But Renay was firm in saying that our team was working hard & success would follow. I smiled when she said Roger was like the salt of the earth. She is so right. The very next debriefing meeting, the latrine & bio sand filter were finished, the sewing was taking off, the kids were excited about learning and the villagers were thrilled about all of it. What a high!
Warmer Weather
Ahhh! The sun!! The last several days have been gorgeous! We are all stripping down to one layer again. Even the nights are warmer and the stars are so clear in the cloudless skies. Loving it!
Chinese Fire Drill
When we took off today for Ra Ma Lu, Rog needed to switch with Renay so he could talk to Steve...so Yuan stopped the truck. Renay & Rog jumped out, ran around the truck and hopped back in on the opposite sides. That's what we use to do when we were teenagers for fun & we called it a Chinese Fire Drill!!!
Better get to bed...who knows what tomorrow will bring. Know we love hearing from you and miss you!!!!
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Boomerang
After the guys finally got back from shopping, we took off after eating lunch. (Renay, Jenny & OuYang left with Meizi & her husband who met us here in QiuBei.) After about an hour's drive, we came to a small stream where Steve asked Yuan to stop. Since they had not been able to find clean sand for the bio sand filter, he thought he could find some there. About 2 1/2 hours of carefully digging & cleaning the sand using a bucket and a grain bag that I found in a nearby ditch, the guys had about 4 gallons of cleaner sand. But while leaning on the truck, Yuan noticed a nail in the front tire. He decided that he needed to get it fixed before heading deeper into the mountains--so back we went stopping at two repair shops but not finding anyone who could fix it. Finally, we ended up about a mile from where we started out this a.m.--got the tire fixed and then checked into the same hotel we were at last night. Enjoy the journey!
Terrace Farming
While waiting for the guys, I took a walk and got a close look at terrace farming on the nearby mountain. It's simply amazing to see how they have used so much of the mountain for farming. Plots about the size of a large garden have been leveled & a rock wall built to form terraces. One after another after another after another. Most the way up the mountain--some all the way up. The contrast between the bright green ones where something is growing is shoking next to the bleak stone & dryness of areas that are not cultivated. Can you imagine climbing up to work in the top terraces?? As Steve said, how would you have any energy left to work???
After the guys finally got back from shopping, we took off after eating lunch. (Renay, Jenny & OuYang left with Meizi & her husband who met us here in QiuBei.) After about an hour's drive, we came to a small stream where Steve asked Yuan to stop. Since they had not been able to find clean sand for the bio sand filter, he thought he could find some there. About 2 1/2 hours of carefully digging & cleaning the sand using a bucket and a grain bag that I found in a nearby ditch, the guys had about 4 gallons of cleaner sand. But while leaning on the truck, Yuan noticed a nail in the front tire. He decided that he needed to get it fixed before heading deeper into the mountains--so back we went stopping at two repair shops but not finding anyone who could fix it. Finally, we ended up about a mile from where we started out this a.m.--got the tire fixed and then checked into the same hotel we were at last night. Enjoy the journey!
Terrace Farming
While waiting for the guys, I took a walk and got a close look at terrace farming on the nearby mountain. It's simply amazing to see how they have used so much of the mountain for farming. Plots about the size of a large garden have been leveled & a rock wall built to form terraces. One after another after another after another. Most the way up the mountain--some all the way up. The contrast between the bright green ones where something is growing is shoking next to the bleak stone & dryness of areas that are not cultivated. Can you imagine climbing up to work in the top terraces?? As Steve said, how would you have any energy left to work???
Back at the hotel in Qiu Bei (sounds like chew bye) tonight. Try to find it! We were on our way back to the village when a nail in our tire sent us back here for repair and now will leave early in the morning for the village.
Our driver is very careful and we feel comfortable riding with him. We saw some beautiful views of the mountains and terraces again today and it warmed up some with several hours of sun. Spent a few hours washing sand in a stream for use in a water filter for the village. We plan to work in the village for another day or two then move to another village. Love to all! Dad
Our driver is very careful and we feel comfortable riding with him. We saw some beautiful views of the mountains and terraces again today and it warmed up some with several hours of sun. Spent a few hours washing sand in a stream for use in a water filter for the village. We plan to work in the village for another day or two then move to another village. Love to all! Dad
I'm back...looks like the guys will take a bit longer to finish their shopping so I'll keep in typing...
Yong--
Needed to add one more thing about Yong. She only completed 5th grade in Guang Dong but now must go to the smaller local school--probably because she could not pass the examination to get into 6th grade. So much potential but so little opportunity.
Flowers
You know you are appreciated when you find fresh picked flowers outside your tent!!
Cook & Bottle Washer
Renay is a fabulous cook! How lucky can we get--she has taught Chinese cooking classes & written a cook book. We've been gobbling down delicious meals--how will I lose that 10 lbs???? She bought lots of fresh vege's & brought a suitcase full of other stuff to add to them. We brought a rice cooker & put all that together and you've got a great meal. All eight of us huddle around a table the size of a card table, sitting on stools and using our chopsticks manage to eat lots. Renay all insist on doing most of the dishes as well...and always with a smile!
Jenny: The Seamstress
Jenny seamstress skills are amazing! She brought with her a suitcase full of needles, thread, zippers, elastic, etc.....and the company she works for sent rolls of fabric. With the sewing machines she bought in Kunming, she has already taught several ladies how to make pants & shirts. She shows them how to make patterns too. It's so neat to watch them start with a piece of paper, draw a pattern, cut it out & presto, sew it up!!!
Scarves for all
We woke up to a drizzle so Jenny pulled out some cloth & starting cutting. In no time, she was wrapping pink scarves around the heads & necks of all the little girls who were poking their heads in our door. Soon all the women were coming, so more scarves were made. Then Jenny pulled out a roll of blue cloth & soon the boys were sporting them. It made a great picture!
Scooter Lady
As I was walking to my tent, I saw an older woman sitting on a low scooter working her way up a muddy, manure covered hill toward her home. I bent down & started pushing her as she squealed with laughter. It was all I could do to get her up that hill the whole time wondering how in the world she does it herself!!! She beckoned me to come in to her home...actually I think she was insisting...so she, I and her husband sat around a small fire that was in the middle of the room--grinning at each other. After a bit, she offered me food & he offered me his bong pipe (yes, I refused both). With the stubs she had for hands, she kept pushing the hot coals into the center of the fire. She was missing part of her leg also--but she sure wasn't missing a smile!! When I motioned that I needed to leave, she frowned. I did go back the next day & we watched a bit of traditional dancing & singing on her TV--the only thing besides a rice cooker of the western world I saw in her house. I hope to do that several times. It seemed to bring her such joy--and me too!
Always Teaching
Once a teacher, always a teacher. Every minute I can, I spend with the children. We have done lots of pattern games, follow the leader, Doggie Doggie Where's Your Bone, Counting while playing London Bridges, drawing self portraits, tic-tac-toe but their favorite is Blue Bird In & Out My Window--which they try to sing all the time even though I can not get them to say "bird"--they say "burr"--which since it's so cold, maybe makes more sense!! They also have devoured the Zoo magazines I brought. They have spents hours scouring them. Yesterday, I thought the kids were home eating supper, so I was walking toward our tents when I heard them shouting. They came bounding over a heaping manure pile and grabbed me. I surely didn't want to take all those manure filled shoes into our tenting area, so we headed up the mountain instead--singing Do, a deer, a female deer.... Just like Sound of Music...well close anyways. Later that night, I was drying dishes when a bunch showed up & asked if I could come out and play--what could I say???????
Little Mothers
The 8-10 year old girls seem to be in charge of the babies. Several of them have one strapped on their backs & they carry them most the day. That doesn't stop them from doing whatever is going on. After I gave them balloons to swat around--they joined right in. Jumping, hopping & swatting the balloon--all right next the the 4 ft ditch right next to us. No safety nets here! I've seen the same little one twice carrying a 12 in curved knife around and those stumbling toddlers also walk right next to that ditch--with no one even semi-close. Makes my heart stop beating...and I think of my little grandbabies that have safety everything everywhere.
Yong--
Needed to add one more thing about Yong. She only completed 5th grade in Guang Dong but now must go to the smaller local school--probably because she could not pass the examination to get into 6th grade. So much potential but so little opportunity.
Flowers
You know you are appreciated when you find fresh picked flowers outside your tent!!
Cook & Bottle Washer
Renay is a fabulous cook! How lucky can we get--she has taught Chinese cooking classes & written a cook book. We've been gobbling down delicious meals--how will I lose that 10 lbs???? She bought lots of fresh vege's & brought a suitcase full of other stuff to add to them. We brought a rice cooker & put all that together and you've got a great meal. All eight of us huddle around a table the size of a card table, sitting on stools and using our chopsticks manage to eat lots. Renay all insist on doing most of the dishes as well...and always with a smile!
Jenny: The Seamstress
Jenny seamstress skills are amazing! She brought with her a suitcase full of needles, thread, zippers, elastic, etc.....and the company she works for sent rolls of fabric. With the sewing machines she bought in Kunming, she has already taught several ladies how to make pants & shirts. She shows them how to make patterns too. It's so neat to watch them start with a piece of paper, draw a pattern, cut it out & presto, sew it up!!!
Scarves for all
We woke up to a drizzle so Jenny pulled out some cloth & starting cutting. In no time, she was wrapping pink scarves around the heads & necks of all the little girls who were poking their heads in our door. Soon all the women were coming, so more scarves were made. Then Jenny pulled out a roll of blue cloth & soon the boys were sporting them. It made a great picture!
Scooter Lady
As I was walking to my tent, I saw an older woman sitting on a low scooter working her way up a muddy, manure covered hill toward her home. I bent down & started pushing her as she squealed with laughter. It was all I could do to get her up that hill the whole time wondering how in the world she does it herself!!! She beckoned me to come in to her home...actually I think she was insisting...so she, I and her husband sat around a small fire that was in the middle of the room--grinning at each other. After a bit, she offered me food & he offered me his bong pipe (yes, I refused both). With the stubs she had for hands, she kept pushing the hot coals into the center of the fire. She was missing part of her leg also--but she sure wasn't missing a smile!! When I motioned that I needed to leave, she frowned. I did go back the next day & we watched a bit of traditional dancing & singing on her TV--the only thing besides a rice cooker of the western world I saw in her house. I hope to do that several times. It seemed to bring her such joy--and me too!
Always Teaching
Once a teacher, always a teacher. Every minute I can, I spend with the children. We have done lots of pattern games, follow the leader, Doggie Doggie Where's Your Bone, Counting while playing London Bridges, drawing self portraits, tic-tac-toe but their favorite is Blue Bird In & Out My Window--which they try to sing all the time even though I can not get them to say "bird"--they say "burr"--which since it's so cold, maybe makes more sense!! They also have devoured the Zoo magazines I brought. They have spents hours scouring them. Yesterday, I thought the kids were home eating supper, so I was walking toward our tents when I heard them shouting. They came bounding over a heaping manure pile and grabbed me. I surely didn't want to take all those manure filled shoes into our tenting area, so we headed up the mountain instead--singing Do, a deer, a female deer.... Just like Sound of Music...well close anyways. Later that night, I was drying dishes when a bunch showed up & asked if I could come out and play--what could I say???????
Little Mothers
The 8-10 year old girls seem to be in charge of the babies. Several of them have one strapped on their backs & they carry them most the day. That doesn't stop them from doing whatever is going on. After I gave them balloons to swat around--they joined right in. Jumping, hopping & swatting the balloon--all right next the the 4 ft ditch right next to us. No safety nets here! I've seen the same little one twice carrying a 12 in curved knife around and those stumbling toddlers also walk right next to that ditch--with no one even semi-close. Makes my heart stop beating...and I think of my little grandbabies that have safety everything everywhere.
Village Meeting
After our first whole day in the village, Yuan asked one person from each home to come to a meeting. They were excited as that day the clay coming out of the drilling was wet so there was much hope in the air. They profusely thanked us for all that we were doing. I was told I could continue working with the children. Jenny explained that the sewing could bring them in some money & hoped they would encourage the woman to continue learning. Steve was not feeling well so not there...but Rog explained about how they could build a bio sand filter so the water they got from their cisterns could be safe. He also asked permission to cement the hill going up to the scooter lady's home. They were pleased with both ideas. Much discussion followed about the latrine--the only one in the village so used by all. (How can I explain them--let's just say you don't want to know or smell it.) It's totally backed up as pampers & pads are thrown there & the pit is not covered so it's very soupy--maybe that's not the best word. The final decision was to drain the liquid, dig a hole for pampers & pads and another hole for the solids. After a year, the solids can be dug up & used as fertilizers. Yuan made them all laugh when he told them human feces make sweeter vegetables! Yuan is an talented & trusted negotiator always asking the villagers to express their opinions.
Hitting Rock
Why do these people have such a tough life?? First having someone in their family contract leprosy...then being banned to the poorest land where it's cold...and with no water. All yesterday's excited quickly came to a crash when the drillers again hit rock. They'd drilled down almost 9 feet when they hit the rock...and after spending most of another day trying to break it--they gave up. It had been so much fun for Rog & Steve to see them take charge of the drilling--having one of them hop on top to add weight--grinning as they went round & round drilling deeper & deeper and watching the children make pots & other art projects from the wet clay. Everyone had been so hopeful... I can only ask WHY????
Shopping For Supplies
While we're in town, the guys are out shopping for stuff to clean up the latrine, build a bio sand filter water system & cement the scooter lady's ramp. We certainly don't want to leave their village without some very visible success. The sewing is wonderful...but only affects a few. We want to help all of them ...with sustainable projects...that will improve their living conditions.
Wagon Train
Our tents are set up in a circle which reminds me of how wagon trains circled up at night. Rog & I must sleep pretty good as Jenny told us each morning that we added to the "snoring symphony"--along with Renay,Yuan, Steve & Ong. Renay informed Jenny that she too snored--only more quietly and almost creating a song.
Rocking
One of the little rascals climbed on my lap. I began to rock him singing "Rock A Bye Baby." He quickly put his head on my shoulder & nuzzled down...letting me rock & rock & rock him. When he finally got up...another about 8 yr old girl came. Again I rocked & she nuzzled down as I sang. I knew that this little girl's mother had left her 4 children & the village after her two husbands had died--she had probably been ostersized as others thought she brought bad luck. As I rocked her, I had to wonder if she was thinking about her mother. Painful.
Animals
Everywhere. Dogs barking, pigs snorting, roosters crowing, chicks peeping, goats bleating, ox mooing...begins just before dawn & last until...when not sure when it ends!!! All these animals produce lots of manure...so there's piles everywhere also!
Nicer Home
Rog & I & others were invited into the home of the nephew of the village leader. THough it was built exactly like every other home, it was much cleaner & neater. They had a nice pink couch & love seat. A Tv, dvd & shelf unit. The kitchen had a large cement stove with huge opening for the wok to sit. Lots of dried vege's hanging. The pork was drying upstairs. Obviously, lots of pride in that home. The nephew is the same guy who learned to put the solar light kits together quickly & seems to be the key pin in the welling project. We were told he has worked outside of the village so he had more money to spend. The village leader & his wife are working outside now.
Leaving the Village
It would seem everyone would just leave this village...but we were told that one must apply to leave their village & are often denied. They can go work other places but cannot get any benefits outside their village. Benefits like medical & schooling. As explained, if people were allowed to leave, large cities would become way overcrowded with poor people and there would be many fewer farmers--whom they depend on. So even with a good education...if that's even possible...very few villagers will have an opportunity to leave permently But a few do. The meaning of freedom has become much more precious to me.
Yuan's Story
After spending over a week with Yuan, we learned his story. He was born in one of the leprosy colonies & was plucked out by a HANDA worker who recognized how clever he was. He was taught how to make prosetics (SP???) and has become an expert at that. (Though HANDA is always scrounging for $$$ so he can make more.) He returns to the leprosy villages often serving the most needy. He found a wife in one of them & they now have a beautiful son & live in Kunming--thanks to HANDA. No wonder you see such love & tenderness in him when he is with the villagers.
Tantrums
Yup--here too. Witnessed a full blown tantrum that lasted almost an hour today. One little guy wanted his mother to quit sewing & get him some water. When she refused, he threw himself on the cement & began kicking & screaming. An older lady with one foot twisted in & who had a child already strapped on her back...picked him up & carried him a ways, then set him on the ground. There he continued his tantrum as she sat quietly ignoring him. Kids are the same everywhere.
Shredder
As Rog wa visiting the home of another villager, he saw him throw lots of greens into a shreder then take it all out to the pigs. Made the pigs happy!
Runny Noses
Can't begin to tell you how many runny noses we've wiped!! The adults use the spray method so you have to move quickly when you hear them start to blow....
Gotta go...my ride is here!
After our first whole day in the village, Yuan asked one person from each home to come to a meeting. They were excited as that day the clay coming out of the drilling was wet so there was much hope in the air. They profusely thanked us for all that we were doing. I was told I could continue working with the children. Jenny explained that the sewing could bring them in some money & hoped they would encourage the woman to continue learning. Steve was not feeling well so not there...but Rog explained about how they could build a bio sand filter so the water they got from their cisterns could be safe. He also asked permission to cement the hill going up to the scooter lady's home. They were pleased with both ideas. Much discussion followed about the latrine--the only one in the village so used by all. (How can I explain them--let's just say you don't want to know or smell it.) It's totally backed up as pampers & pads are thrown there & the pit is not covered so it's very soupy--maybe that's not the best word. The final decision was to drain the liquid, dig a hole for pampers & pads and another hole for the solids. After a year, the solids can be dug up & used as fertilizers. Yuan made them all laugh when he told them human feces make sweeter vegetables! Yuan is an talented & trusted negotiator always asking the villagers to express their opinions.
Hitting Rock
Why do these people have such a tough life?? First having someone in their family contract leprosy...then being banned to the poorest land where it's cold...and with no water. All yesterday's excited quickly came to a crash when the drillers again hit rock. They'd drilled down almost 9 feet when they hit the rock...and after spending most of another day trying to break it--they gave up. It had been so much fun for Rog & Steve to see them take charge of the drilling--having one of them hop on top to add weight--grinning as they went round & round drilling deeper & deeper and watching the children make pots & other art projects from the wet clay. Everyone had been so hopeful... I can only ask WHY????
Shopping For Supplies
While we're in town, the guys are out shopping for stuff to clean up the latrine, build a bio sand filter water system & cement the scooter lady's ramp. We certainly don't want to leave their village without some very visible success. The sewing is wonderful...but only affects a few. We want to help all of them ...with sustainable projects...that will improve their living conditions.
Wagon Train
Our tents are set up in a circle which reminds me of how wagon trains circled up at night. Rog & I must sleep pretty good as Jenny told us each morning that we added to the "snoring symphony"--along with Renay,Yuan, Steve & Ong. Renay informed Jenny that she too snored--only more quietly and almost creating a song.
Rocking
One of the little rascals climbed on my lap. I began to rock him singing "Rock A Bye Baby." He quickly put his head on my shoulder & nuzzled down...letting me rock & rock & rock him. When he finally got up...another about 8 yr old girl came. Again I rocked & she nuzzled down as I sang. I knew that this little girl's mother had left her 4 children & the village after her two husbands had died--she had probably been ostersized as others thought she brought bad luck. As I rocked her, I had to wonder if she was thinking about her mother. Painful.
Animals
Everywhere. Dogs barking, pigs snorting, roosters crowing, chicks peeping, goats bleating, ox mooing...begins just before dawn & last until...when not sure when it ends!!! All these animals produce lots of manure...so there's piles everywhere also!
Nicer Home
Rog & I & others were invited into the home of the nephew of the village leader. THough it was built exactly like every other home, it was much cleaner & neater. They had a nice pink couch & love seat. A Tv, dvd & shelf unit. The kitchen had a large cement stove with huge opening for the wok to sit. Lots of dried vege's hanging. The pork was drying upstairs. Obviously, lots of pride in that home. The nephew is the same guy who learned to put the solar light kits together quickly & seems to be the key pin in the welling project. We were told he has worked outside of the village so he had more money to spend. The village leader & his wife are working outside now.
Leaving the Village
It would seem everyone would just leave this village...but we were told that one must apply to leave their village & are often denied. They can go work other places but cannot get any benefits outside their village. Benefits like medical & schooling. As explained, if people were allowed to leave, large cities would become way overcrowded with poor people and there would be many fewer farmers--whom they depend on. So even with a good education...if that's even possible...very few villagers will have an opportunity to leave permently But a few do. The meaning of freedom has become much more precious to me.
Yuan's Story
After spending over a week with Yuan, we learned his story. He was born in one of the leprosy colonies & was plucked out by a HANDA worker who recognized how clever he was. He was taught how to make prosetics (SP???) and has become an expert at that. (Though HANDA is always scrounging for $$$ so he can make more.) He returns to the leprosy villages often serving the most needy. He found a wife in one of them & they now have a beautiful son & live in Kunming--thanks to HANDA. No wonder you see such love & tenderness in him when he is with the villagers.
Tantrums
Yup--here too. Witnessed a full blown tantrum that lasted almost an hour today. One little guy wanted his mother to quit sewing & get him some water. When she refused, he threw himself on the cement & began kicking & screaming. An older lady with one foot twisted in & who had a child already strapped on her back...picked him up & carried him a ways, then set him on the ground. There he continued his tantrum as she sat quietly ignoring him. Kids are the same everywhere.
Shredder
As Rog wa visiting the home of another villager, he saw him throw lots of greens into a shreder then take it all out to the pigs. Made the pigs happy!
Runny Noses
Can't begin to tell you how many runny noses we've wiped!! The adults use the spray method so you have to move quickly when you hear them start to blow....
Gotta go...my ride is here!
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