Thailand 29

Stay in Udon Thani:
We had to spend a day in Udon Thani waiting to catch a train back to Bangkok so we did our usual stroll around looking for whatever. What we found was lots of bars and even more western men with young Thai girls. It made me angry. So many of the men were old or fat or just ugly or a combination. Udon was a US military base in the 60's and our guide book said that's when Udon became much more westernized. Another casualty of war. On the lighter side, we did have the opportunity to buy some fried crispy & crunchy variety of bugs including caterpillars, locust & grasshoppers...right outside a most plush five story mall. And right around the corner was a McDonald's--can you guess what I choose to eat???? Speaking of eating, since it was very difficult finding food we could eat in Nong Ban Lampu, we had eaten up most of the supply of food we'd brought from USA. Luckily, we found a large grocery store (very rare) and found Jiffy peanut butter & granola bars--first time we'd seen either of these in Thai. They also had cheese--but at about $10 for a 1/2 lb I figured I could wait until I got home to indulge.


Train ride from Udon to Bangkok:
We were sure ready to leave Udon...and anxious to see the country side. We'd purchased a 2nd class ticket (air cond) but after discovering the windows were dirty...we headed back to the 3rd class seats where the open windows kept you cool & we could clearly see the rice paddies, water buffalos, farmers, groves of banana, coconut, pineapple and rubber trees, small towns, mountains and rivers. Soon we saw a pattern...open farm fields, shacky houses, less shacky houses, a few nice homes, village, a few nice homes, shacky houses, more shacky house, open farm fields...etc. Though we had thought we'd see more during the 12 hour train ride...we sure felt like we'd seen lots of Thailand and after about 7 hours as 3rd class got crowded & hot...we gladly went back to our 2nd class air cond seats to eat our PB sandwiches.


Back in Bangkok...only to catch ride to Ko Sumet:
Somewhere along the line, someone recommended a hotel in Bangkok so when we arrived late & tired, we just showed the name to a taxi driver and soon found ourselves in gorgeous hotel. At $85, it was the most we'd paid since Pucket but...it was nice to be in a luxury with a great view of the city lights! After asking for info about getting to Ko Sumet, they quickly lined us up with a mini bus ride the next morning complete with ferry ride to the island--and they'd handle the luggage (which we were tired of hauling around & which we have promised ourselves never travel with so much luggage again!!!) On the ferry ride there, we heard there were no rooms available on the island as it was Music Festival weekend (Thais have many festivals) but we'd already adopted the India & Thai motto: No problem...and there wasn't as the ferry dropped us at a hotel with available bungalows...and handled our luggage so by noon...we were sitting a tropical island beach.

Ko Sumet:
Now I won't go into much detail as I certainly don't want to make anyone too jealous...let's just say it was everything you dream of...emerald green warm water, white powdery sand, lush shade trees, 80 degree sunny weather, fresh fruits, cold diet coke, bungalow with air, western bathroom & frig...in other words, paradise...for $50 a night...though we could have just rented a tent & slept on the beach for much cheaper. We hunkered down from 3 days on a pineapple diet. Pineapple pancakes, smoothies, in fresh salads with pineapple dressing and grilled on kabobs with meats/onion/tomatoes/potatoes/corn. MMMMM. I'm addicted. Though I must admit, fresh coconut smoothies come in a close second!!! Lots of Thai families were there also. It was a joy watching them frolic in the water...usually with their clothes on... and enjoying all the food cooked & sold on the beach. We also saw lots of western men with young Thai girls. Grrrr. We took a cruise of the smaller islands around, snorkeling a bit. Though we saw lots of fish & coral, we only caught glimpses of the radiant color that reminded us of our best snorkeling at St. John's. We also visited a fish & turtle farm where we were a bit nervous walking the ancient planks with no guard rails next to pools of huge sharks, groupers & giant turtles. We discovered a trail that led to a cliff where we could watch the sunset...and reflect on just how fortunate we are.




Shame on me...
I have to admit, I was feeling a bit bummed about not having a beach front bungalow... but God has a way of opening my eyes. We took a walk on the dirt road that ran through the center of the island and there we saw where the smiling & eager to please waiters & vendors live. Back in the mosquito invested jungle without the cool ocean breeze or view and far, far from the beach...and without the time to lounge there anyways. Shame on me.

Update #28

Another Bulletin Board:
So what happens when someone is impressed with the job you did??? They ask you to do it! There was another large bulletin board that was looking shabby so we weren't too surprised when sister asked us to redo it. It was a Kid of the Month board so we brainstormed some ideas & let sister pick the one she wanted. Next we were off to the office supply store again for supplies for an underwater scene with a fish for each kid. Again, we got rave reviews ...and though we sure didn't expect to dig up that part of our teaching experience...we were glad to please & fill the need.

Broken and Angry Children:
Sister Marie Paul spent much time with us today talking about her children...broken and angry. First they were rejected by parents & then the orphanage they were first in rejected them due to their AIDS and on top of it all, they are so confused & angry about having AIDS through no fault of their own. They have been loved by no one. They trust no one. Sisters' love is the first and it has taken them years to quell some of that anger and soothe their broken hearts just a bit. I must admit spending time with them was tough as they were quite wild and it was only with a bit of humor that I could get them to stop painting the table, or taking from my supply bag whatever they wanted, or cutting up good paper, or etc.... Sister has been to some training but is often at a loss as to how to handle situations. I think she felt like she could confide in us and use us as a sounding board...listening ears. I hope so.

Painting/Cutting/Glitter Marathon:
When the kids came home on Valentines Day, we were ready...and it's a good thing. The first ones came about 4:30 and the last ones left around 8:30!! They painted, cut &/or glittered nearly every piece of paper we had. We showed them how to make hearts...and soon there were hearts everywhere. Glitter was the highlight. Some painted slowly and with much skill...others loved being able to paint the entire sheet with multiple colors. By 8, the room was lined with drying art work and the kids, sisters, a teacher & some Vietnam visiting priest were walking around admiring the work. When I realized that the crowd, paint, glitter & scissors was getting a bit too much in one room, the teacher in me came out. I motioned for them to follow & Rog and I each grabbed a taller kid to form a London Bridge--and a better place for all their energy. When we tired of that, we had them sit in a large circle and showed them how to play Duck, Duck, Goose. Though I am sure they had no idea what a duck or goose was--they caught on quickly. They loved picking Rog as he tried to corner them and out smart them by reversing the direction he ran. So who cares it broke the rules--it sure made them laugh!! Finally--it was time for the kids to go to bed (and us too!). The sisters led the kids in singing the same Thank you song that the kids in Kolkata sang to us--only in Thai first and then English. We gave each a chocolate gold coin & a huge hug. Several ran out and picked blossoms off the tree to give us. The sisters thanked us profusely and we in turn thanked them for opening their home & hearts to us. What a full and loving Valentines Day! p.s. And to add even more delight to the day, I savored two diet cokes & a Dove chocolate bar...Rog ate a Black Chocolate bar (Thai product).

Kindness everywhere in Thailand:
Here's just a few of the kind acts that the Thai do for us all the time--
-While unsuccessfully trying to tag down a taxi, a young girl asked us where we were headed & then literally jumped in front of the next taxi that went by, told the driver where we were headed & negotiated the price, smiled & waved good bye as we drove off.
-One evening, rather late, we were trying to find a art supply store. As we walked by a grocery store, the keeper came out & asked us if he could help. After telling us the art store was not near, he handed us four oranges and bowed.
-As I was sitting in a bus stop, I was curiously looking at something a young man was drinking. He spoke up and told me what it was--in Thai--and seemed to indicate where I could buy some. I just smiled & shook my head no. Then just as we went to get on the bus, he brought me over two cold water bottles. He had the biggest grin on his face & refused money.
-Though Rog often has to lug around his suitcases, I seldom do as Thai gentlemen quickly take mine.

Service everywhere in Thailand:
Remember gas attendants? Door attendants? etc...they are still here.

Education:
We can't believe how many schools/colleges we see as we travel about. Thais put a high emphasis on education. Many appear to be boarding schools & all require uniforms. Even the colleges. They are well maintained & quite nice with ornate gates surrounding them. I did chuckle as we passed one ornate gilded entrance gate...with a water buffalo lounging right in front of it.

Happy Valentine Day to all of you! Sure hope you have many & much to love!! We see lots of red hearts and flowers around here also as the Thai celebrate this holiday also.

Motorcycle:
After church, we stood talking to the few English speaking people. One man was from Italy and was with a Thai woman (wife??) who told us all about many plants & herbs that she uses --some rubbed on during massages & other brewed to drink. She said they have been used for thousands of years & many westerners come to Thailand to be healed by them. She said she could make me look 20 years younger...it was tempting to just leave with her and forget about working with the kids!! The Italian then offered to take us with them as they went out for a drive to a beautiful, peaceful place nearby...again tempting but we'd already told the sisters we'd work with the kids. So the Italian offered his girlfriend/wife's bike...free! He practically insisted so within the next ten minutes, we had keys to a Scoopy0 (Honda)!! So later in the day (while the kids napped), we took off for some back country going through several small villages & past many fields. Imagine giving your motorcycle keys to someone you just met--who didn't even have a Thai driver's license. But as they say here all the time with a smile...No Problem.

Sunday PM:
Seems like we just never know what's going on next. After church, we were ready to get the kids painting...and found out they were going to a class on HIV/AIDS. Not sure why or who was presenting as two sisters told me they didn't think it was wise to give the kids so much information about their disease. It only upset them & most could not understand the information. So we thought we'd paint around noon. Wrong again. Some local high school students came around noon & set up to serve lunch and a live band performed...loudly. Many high school girls encouraged the kids to dance but they were being shy so one of the sisters took several kids' hands and started dancing with them...so of course, Rog & I joined in. I know what you are thinking...we certainly aren't the best ones to show anyone how to dance... Sister was having a ball & I joined her in a line dance she'd gotten started with a couple girls. Can you picture that! I was grinning from the inside out and wishing I had it on video!! I later told sister that she reminded me of Whoopi Goldberg in the movie, Sister Act!! She belly laughed!

Auytthaya:
What wat?? That's the question we had to ask each other after seeing so many new & ancient wats (temples). The ruins here cover a much larger area than Suhkathai or Lop Buri--as it was the major city of the Siam empire for over 400 years. Today's city is built all around the ruins so you can walk from a 7/ll across the street from a 700 year old wat. So strange. As we walked around, often a vehicle with a loud speaker shouting something passed by or the speakers mounted on poles would start blaring what sounded like a talk show ...no idea what they were saying but cracked us up. Just before sunset--we hopped in long boat that took us around the moat/river that surrounded the city. Seeing the ruins with the crimson sunset light as a backlight was gorgeous. We also got to see the many houses that line the moat/river--all on stilts--some very modern & fancy, some almost falling into the river & several dilapidated houseboats where friendly locals waved & smiled as we passed. We shared the river with party boats built like arks & several barges pulled by tugboats. Having seen enough wats, we took a tuk tuk 25 miles to Ban Sai's arts/craft center where the queen set up a site where handicapped & small villagers can get training in over 30 crafts so they can improve their income. The queen's retreat home is there as well as a bird park. We saw the most amazing totally white peacock and several huge hornbills. When we went back at our arranged time to hop in our tuk tuk, we found our driver hooking up a rope to replace his broken fan belt. We agreed to stick around as he drove to a local shop to get a new fan belt...which gave us time to check out the training shops where we could watch them as they worked. Fortunately, the ride back to Auytthaya was uneventful!


Overnight train ride to Udon Thani:
At 9:20 p.m. we climbed aboard the train--Rog in car 9 & me in 10--and crawled into our top berths. Though small, they were quite comfortable...until the train started to move & then I found out that Rog had the better berth. Mine was right over the wheels & next to the open door between cars. That made for a rocky, noisy night!! It took a bit to fall asleep, but lucky for me, I sleep pretty sound. Rog's berth was in the center of his car & so less noise & motion. At 7:15 a.m., we were there! We soon found a driver to take us the hour & a half drive to Nang Bua Lamphu...in search of Mother Teresa's mission there.



Mother Teresa's Home for AIDS Children:
It was a welcoming site when we saw the Missionary of Charity sisters who warmly greeted us and were eager to hear about our experience in Kolkata. Such fond memories were easy to speak about. They said their 18 children would be thrilled to have visitors and would love doing art projects with us. They had a driver take us to a nearby hotel--just $10 per night with air & western bathroom--and an internet cafe next door & a 7/11 just down the street :). Since the children were in school until 4, we checked out the town & took a quick nap. At 4, we had playdough, coloring sheets & drawing paper ready to go. Kids quickly joined us & in no time, all were busy. Looking around I couldn't help but think that we were so lucky to be able to spend some fun time with these orphan AIDS children who's parent probably already died of AIDS & who's life will probably be way too short.

Their Website

Honda Day At MT's:
After spending the morning creating flowers, the kids were treated to a fun couple hours provided by the local Honda dealer. They set up a relay where the kids & many of their employees had to 1-blow flour off a coin & pick it up with their teeth 2-drop the coin into a cup 3-eat a banana and 4-drink a glass of punch. Then they played musical chairs followed by a bowl of soup & ice cream...us too. Then it was nap time so off we went to shop for bulletin board supplies.

Bulletin Board:
As soon as Sister Marie Paul MC found out we were retired teachers, she asked if we'd redo a bulletin board that had pictures of the kids--about 3-4 years ago. Truly we had experience doing that. We'd seen a store filled with paper & cut outs so we filled up a cart, had the kids create some flowers & leaves, added new pictures of the kids the nuns provided in the center of the flowers and presto...a colorful new bulletin board. The four nuns were so impressed. One said God must of sent us to them as the apples on the old bulletin board were certainly rotten! As the kids came back after their naps, they were so excited!! You'd think it was a Christmas tree!

Game Afternoon:
We found chess & checker boards while in town, so we set that up as well as some games of five square & dots and gave each kid 4 pipe cleaners. So in no time, all were engaged in some game, creating things with pipe clearners or enjoying a bowling with the play dough. The sisters said usually the kids are so antsy and were so glad to see them all so engaged. As we walked to the evening church service, the sisters said many of the kids were asking how long we were going to stay...

Dinner:
We found a restaurant called The Best so in we went...to find out those were the only two words in English on the menu & no one there spoke English. I decided I'd stop at 7/ll later. After pointing to someone's rice & a picture of chicken, Rog thought all was good. Hot rice came & so he ate it thinking they must not have figured out he wanted chicken also. He then asked for the bill & our waitress cracked up laughing & pointed to the kitchen. Quite a bit later, chicken came & more rice (probably cause he'd eaten the first). A few bites convinced him that the chicken was the fat/joint pieces we toss...fried really crispy. That didn't convince him to stop eating...just added more hot sauce. Warm water (didn't trust ice) washed it all down. I did stop at 7/ll, got a Coke Lite, Lays chips & a ham & cheese sandwich--one half had ham on it & the other half had the cheese. Close enough!

Just a quick note to let you know we arrived in Udon Thani & are headed for Mother Teresa's mission about 50 K from here...try to write more later??

Thailand #25

Safe Haven Learning Center background:
As we rode to Mae Sot with Simon (the Australian who has been helping Tasanee for years, he explained how he would like to build some additional structures at Safe Haven so he can bring the children from Safe Haven Learning Center to live with those at the orphanage. He told us that a fundamentalist religious group from the USA had originally taken charge of the kids & moved them to the Learning Center site but had pulled out and they actually took materials (wiring, plumbing, etc.) when they left and stopped providing support. Recently that group returned and wanted to take ( or kidnap) the children-and that is why the children were brought to Safe Haven and "hid out" all day with us. That was the day they came to "visit" and stayed all day... Sometimes it is better not to know the entire story!

Traveling notes:
I need to mention that when we were trying to get to Mae Sot's bus station, we started walking down a road pulling our luggage. As we went by a barber shop, the barber came out & asked where we were headed. When he found out, he said I will take you. He then ran across the road, got his truck & off we went--leaving the barber shop door open. When we offered to pay, he totally refused. Thai service!

Driving:
The road we took to Sukhothai in the back of a truck was so curvy that it felt like we were on a go cart track & that yellow line must have just been a suggestion.

Luxury:
Imagine how great it felt to take a hot shower, swim in a cool pool, swing in a bamboo hammock, drink cold Diet Coke & relax in an air conditioned room! A month without those luxuries made it all feel so wonderful!! First night in Sukhothia, Jane feasted on a ham & cheese sandwich, chips & cold diet coke--all purchased at a 7/11!! Rog totally loves the Thai food and so he feasted at a local Thai restraurant.

Sukhothia After Thoughts:
After spending a couple days admiring the majestic remains of a kingdom over 700 years ago, reading about the King (whose name already I can't remember) who rode his treasured white elephant to the temple at the top of a hill overlooking his city and remembering The King & I--it again made us realize that even the most grandeur buildings & society doesn't guarantee fame or lasting value.

Train ride to LopBuri/Ayutthaya:
Third class is cheap & not that bad! Rog, of course, knew which side to sit on so we didn't have the sun on us & the open window kept us cool. Vendors walked the aisle selling all sorts of food--most we could not recognize-made us glad we had packed bread, peanut butter & chips so all we needed to purchase was cold water. We traveled for miles seeing the lush spring green rice fields dotted with farmers. Probably 200 miles or more. That's a lot of rice!! About every 20 miles, we came through small towns. The houses on the outskirts were made of bamboo or sawed wood with corrugated metal roofs--pretty rough looking--but as you got closer to the center, the houses were made of cement & tiled roofs & much nicer. Though beautiful bushes bloomed everywhere--there seemed to be no landscaping plan. At one stop, we were joined by a man who was very loud and friendly but we soon realized also very drunk. He spoke to us in Thai and seemed to encourage us to take pictures of rice fields, birds, ponds, etc. He smiled and bounced around as the train rocked its way along. Soon the rocking motion put him to sleep and after a short nap, the conductor stopped by to check his ticket. He quickly got off the train (he was on the wrong one). After he got off a young woman who was sitting nearby came up to us and asked if we were OK. She had been concerned because the man was so loud and she was afraid he was bothering us. How thoughtful of her! It is nice to know that there are good people around us. Though it was a long six hour trip, we were glad we'd seen some country side & meet a few more Thai.

LopBuri:
We got off the train in Lop Buri--mostly to see the monkeys. They were everywhere: hopping from moving car to car, tightrope walking the electric lines, using umbrellas as trampolines & happily climbing over the ruins. Lop Buri is is site of many ruins some of which date to the Khmers who built an empire centered around Angkar Wat in Cambodia. We went to see the "Monkey Feast" at the ruins of the Monkey Palace. Locals feed the monkeys a lot of fruit in one area and we think it encourages the monkeys to stay in just that area rather than spreading throughout the city. There we saw newly born monkeys clutching & nursing.
Jane has sometimes complained of having a monkey on her back...but in Lop Buri she really did have one and then another and another. Real ones first on her leg then on her back. Finally, as we were walking out of town toward the train station one last brave monkey snatched a plastic bag she was carrying and tore it open, spilling out a loaf a bread meant for peanut butter sandwiches. She just laughed as he made off with her lunch.



How do you know when you have been in a third world country a loooong time??
When you first start looking for the water source used to fill a container so you can "flush"...only to discover, there is handle for flushing!!!

Ayutthaya:
Who'd have guessed that we'd arrive on the Chinese New Year's!! And boy do they celebrate that! One long street was filled with set tables covered with pink tablecloths where hunreds of Chinese wearing red shirts ate numerous courses and watched several performances on a ornate stage complete with two large screens for better viewing. Often the entertainers were mimicing western performers. Vendors lined the side of the street cooking up huge amounts of who knows what and others selling an array of items. Some food items we did recognize: duck, octopus tentacles, squid, shrimp (live tank next to it), pig ears, pig jowls, rice dishes galore, egg omelets, etc. Most smelled good but we opted for pizza & ice cream. As we laid down to go to sleep, we could still hear fireworks, gongs & merriment.

Thailand #24

Quick thoughts:
-Been thinking about the song "Jesus Love the Little Children..red & yellow, black & white..." What about brown??? There's sure lots of them around here!!
-And how about the Our Father...Give us this day our daily bread...around here it's daily rice...shouldn't that be revised for here??

Tires:
-No orange cones around here!! They cut tire in half & paint it red/white. Works.
-As a matter of fact, used tires are reincarnated in lots of ways: flower pots, garbage containers, toys, road side sighs, homemade carts etc


Bamboo:
-Bamboo has to be the most versatile building material. We've seen it used in: houses, scaffolding, furniture, hammocks, playpens, boats, clotheslines, shade coverings, fences, poles for beans, drain pipes, lamps etc. More valuable than gold!! And it grows wild everywhere!!!

Motorcycles:

So while I'm on this roll. You can't imagine the ways they use motorcycles--besides loading them with as many as 5 people!! The build carts they can pull behind, carts that fasten to the front, carts that fasten to the side & even added shade covers. Some are used to carry more than 5 people, huge loads of food/bamboo/animals/straw/etc and some have built in ice boxes to sell cold goods while others have hooked up propane tanks & fry foods to sell. If you need to move anything...a motorcycle is the answer!!

Wife and Groceries

Bamboo Chairs

Eggs

Food Stand

Thai Alphabet
-Thai alphabet--HUGE! 42 consonant sounds, 30+ vowel sounds & 6 tones. In other words--I won't be learning to speak much Thai!! And I thought it was a trick to teach reading in USA!!!



Sukhothai:
From Moe Sot, we hopped a bus and headed toward the city of Sukhothai where the ruins of the Siam empire that was mostly destroyed by the Burmese about the 15th century. We rented bikes & toured the ruins of the many (and I might say way too many) Buddist temples which are enourmous and very impressive. We just happen to get there just before sunset so watched the orange glow light up the huge Buddah. Once a month, there is a traditional show depicting the history of the area--and we lucked out!! We watched the show which included the lighting of about 30 paper latterns that then lifted ... floating slowly upward until they looked like stars in the dark sky. What a glorious sight!

Thailand #23

Saying Goodbye:
After a month, it was time to say good bye and move on...so at the evening service, we thanked everyone for warmly including us in their family and that we hoped they felt our love and God's love through us. We told them we admired their self-sufficiency & the smiles that seem to come from their hearts. We encouraged them to continue working hard at school and making good decisions. Then we sang Amazing Grace. When we finished, they all stood and sang in English..."May God Bless You" and then we were bombarded with hugs, kisses, jewelry & so many gorgeous cards & a few brand new Christmas cards which widen my smile even more. Tears filled my eyes as my arms were wrapped around several at a time. Then we went back to our room to finish packing. Soon there was a knock on our door...another card & hug...then another knock, card & hug...this went on until about 11 p.m... The last young man--about 14-- knelt down in front us with his head on the floor saying Dablue Pada. Thank you. Never have we felt more honored!!! The next morning, we again generously gave and received hugs & kisses as the kids jumped in the truck & headed to school. We stood there waving (and crying) until they disappeared down the road...but never from our hearts.

The Kids Off to School

Leaving Safe Haven:
As luck would have it, Simon was headed for Mae Sot so we hitched a ride. First we had more hugs from the adults who each gave us a card also. Paw So put a beautiful necklace on me and her card included several photos of herself...she who had so little and had lost so much. How can they be so loving and generous???? Tasanee's final words were--we will see you again. So with that, we were off. Simon shared a wealth of information on our drive to Mae Sot & Tasanee had arranged for us to stay in her town apartment so we got to see Johnny & Ruby. But the next morning.... we cut the cord and took off on our own.

Tasanee

Update:
We just left the Safe Haven Orphanage today and so we are in Mae Sot--large city about two hours drive away. From here we are going to do some touring around and head toward a Mother Teresa orphanage in the north east. We have learned not to make any definite plan as things just happen when they happen and usually, it's a pleasant surprise. Bekah has been doing a great job keeping up our blog if you want to read more about what we've been doing: rogerandjane@blogspot.com We have been thinking lots about you guys and wondering what is going on with you. We miss hearing the daily happenings and keeping up on how you are doing...so when you get a minute...drop us a line. We should be near internet cafes for the next week or so. Roger & Jane

Thailand #23

Lunch crowd:
It's funny how opportunities just seem to fall at our feet. As I was just finishing up some packing, Tasanee came back & said she was heading to the site where her friend Lina & the Noregian group (all of which we'd met three times already) where building a school & asked if we wanted to go. Why not? We jumped in and 45 minutes later were watching the crew constructing a wall made out of bricks that they had previously made & an adobe they were currently mixing up. Both were made up of soil, sand, rice husk & water. All natural products they could find locally for virtually free...and since it's against the law for them to cut down any of the local trees...this is a great alternative. When we arrived, a man was down in a 4 ft hole with a pick loosening up the soil. The sand, rice husk & water was thrown into the hole & the man used the pick to mix it all up. Then buckets were lowered & filled and used as a cement between the bricks & also to coat the wall as they finished. At noon, we went to Lina's for a feast. Around the table sat several architects (from Norway, Spain & German), a photojournalist who worked as an activist for the Karen tribe, a General in the Karen National Liberation Army and a man who does documentaries for Norway public TV as well as several locals. All sat around the table--on mats--having lively discussions. We ended up invited to the KNL army camp in Burma and found out the next documentary the man was producing was on the Sioux tribe in South Dakota! Crazy how in the back country of Thailand, we found ourselves in the middle of such a gathering!


Answered Prayer:
As I packed to leave, my prayer was that somehow these kids who already had lost so much, would not feel deserted by us. And the answered soon arrived: a young gal from England who will soon be joined by a young Canadian!! Leah, an elementary teacher, was bubbling with excitement & eager to take over the English & piano lessons & art activities...as well as our bedroom complete with art supplies, lesson books & the hammock. What a relief!!!

Simon:
When I first wrote to Safe Haven, it was Simon who replied so it was a treat to meet him when he came with bags of rice. He's an Australian, about 30+, who came for holiday about 7 years ago and stayed after meeting Tasanee & others. He earns his money creating websites and spends it helping two (or more??) orphanages. He also answers volunteer/donor emails and screens them before passing the valid ones on to Tasanee. If Tasanee has money needs, he searches for funding for her. He is very knowledgeable about the Thai/Burma conflict and feels like Mae Sot is a unique place as foreigners are safe here (the corrupt police don't want to call any foreign attention) yet just across the river, there is fighting. Here you can help those devastated by war--without being in the middle of the battle. And then there's Lina...

Lina:
A young gal from Norway who also came & stayed. She is using her architect skills and understanding of the Thai law and ways, to help several orphanages build cheap yet sound buildings. She recruits volunteers who she can brainstorm with and employs the locals. She also helps locate Norwegian markets for the scarves, skirts & shirts woven by widows as an income for them & the orphanage they work at. Meeting people like Lina & Simon is an honor.

Thailand #21

Evenings:
No more quiet evenings for us (we have a monster on our porch)! One night last week, we turned our porch light on as we were preparing an art project for the next day. Before we knew it, we were surrounded by kids asking for paper. That’s how the monster was created. Now every night, we have between 10 to 20 kids crowded on our porch coloring, drawing and cutting. Rog also made up several games that some of the kids are eager to play. One kid has beat him several times playing DOTS. At nine, we let them know it’s time to leave. They clean up, give us hugs & go off with big smiles.




Scorpion:
Tonight as the evening gang was here coloring & playing games, suddenly they all picked up their feet. I was no dummy, I picked up mine, too, even though I didn’t know why. Quickly the eldest girl took her pencil and carefully started jabbing at the fast moving insect that was running across the porch. After several attempts, it was dead and she used a shoe to push it over the side. Then she said, “No Mae Sot.” Guess that meant that had she been bitten by that scorpion--she’d be going to the hospital in Mae Sot. I had to think how lucky I was a couple weeks ago, when I had managed to kill a much larger scorpion in our bedroom!

Safe Haven Learning Center
When the kids from Safe Haven Learning Center were here, we asked if they wanted us to come there and do some art projects. With a big grin, they said “Yes, tomorrow.” So off we went with a back pack filled with paper, paint, scissors, crayons, colored pencils, glue, paste, glitter & play dough. As we descended the steep hill, kids met us to take the backpack & guide our steps. We needed both. We quickly set up 5 activities as the kids gathered. Within minutes about 50 kids & 3 adults were actively engaged. What a joy it was to watch! Big & small seemed to love every activity. Even Tasanee’s mother (76) was sitting there coloring. About 2 ½ hours later as it neared dinner time, we started cleaning up with lots of help. Then we passed out balloons & feathers and what a hullabaloo that created! We gave Gloria (the wife) a soccer ball and pump and you could see the gratitude in her sparkling eyes. Finally, Gloria’s daughter (17) took us on a tour. All the buildings were of bamboo and teak leaf roofs with no furnishings except one stand with one small TV, two chairs & a table in the church & two blackboards. No beds. No desks. And worst of all, no teacher. Walking between buildings was very difficult (though Tasanee’s mom made it look easy) as the hillside was so steep. I can’t imagine how they do it in the rainy season. The creek was dry so they had pipes that brought water from a higher mountain stream. And this is where over 50+ kids lived. 50+ kids who had no parents around--except Tasanee’s brother & his wife. 50+ kids who were not allowed to go to the public school--we can only guess why. 50+ kids that drew & painted gorgeous pictures of all the landscape that surrounds them & who filled the valley with their smiles & laughter. As we drove home, I was overwhelmed with the needs yet full of admiration for Tasanee (who provides them with as much food, clothing & blankets as she can) and her brother & his wife who lovingly care for them…hidden away deep in their valley.

Hot Water:
So after over two weeks, we’ve discovered hot water!! At breakfast, we get a pot of hot water for our coffee & hot chocolate. Duh! We now carry a small bowl & washcloth to breakfast & walk away having washed our faces with hot water!! Also, I found a large empty black container, rinsed it out, filled it with water & set it in the sun. Around 3 p.m., I can bathe with warm water!!

Hugs:
When we first arrived, the children bowed respectfully when they passed us. Slowly but surely the bow was followed by hugs. Each morning, several kids want a hug before jumping into the truck and heading for school. Each time I think, do they think about their mother when they are hugging me?? One little guy--about 5--often wants to sit closely to me and as I put my arm around him, he cradles himself next to my side with his eyes closed. My heart cries for him. How long ago was it his mother next to him?? On one particular day after an extra long hug, he jumped up, picked a nearby flower and gave it to me. Then both my heart and eyes cried for him.

Thailand #22

Washing

Doing the wash is no easy task here even with an automatic washing machine. First check to see that the valve is open that allows water to flow to the bathing/ bathroom/shower/ washing machine area. Note flow is a bit less than on previous days…Check the valve leading to the garden. It is partially open-some water is moving here. Close the garden valve to force all available water to the washing machine. Load washer only to find that there still is not enough water flowing to fill the machine. Use small plastic bowls to transfer water from bathing area storage tanks to the washing machine. Still no luck as the machine is trying to fill and apparently cannot sense that there is now sufficient water inside. With Tasanee and Chom gone to Mae Sot, concern about water for bathing, cooking, etc. sends us up the road to see if there is a problem with pipe. Finding no leaks along the road we (Jane and I) follow the pipe along a narrow trail leading through jungle until we reach the end of the pipe. The screen is partially blocked with debris and the water level is too low to keep the end of the pipe covered. Cleaning away the debris is simple but will only increase flow slightly. Return to find that power is temporarily out and we will have to wait to try the washing machine. I wonder what the coming months will be like at Safe Haven as the stream may dry up entirely before rains come again.

Thailand #20

Pecan Roll:
One of my favorite treats as a kid was a pecan roll. I’d always start by eating the outside of the spiral…it was so good because it was the first bites…but the more I nibbled my way to the center spiral…the better it tasted. I remember savoring that final center bite. Being here is like eating a pecan roll. The first few days were a treat being new and exciting but as the days go by…and I learn more…the richer & better it gets.


School Visit:
We always love visiting schools & so we hopped on the bike and rode to the school that our kids attend. Just inside the gate was a small building--I figured guard--wrong. It was a barber shop. Not sure if that meant they had a short hair policy or if it was just handy to be there. We managed to find someone who spoke enough English to give us permission to visit the classrooms. Neat bulletin boards, wooden desks, blackboards & about 40 kids in each class greeted us with giggles & snickers. The teachers were enthusiastic & let us participate. In some classrooms, we sang Itsy, Bitsy Spider…others we read aloud in their textbook & the higher English class was doing a dance--Right, Left, Forward, Backward, and Spin & Jump--so we did. The teacher was projecting a program that illustrated the movements & each kid wore a headphone which I assume was saying the words in English. Anyways, it was fun. Each time we found one of our students, we could sense their happiness at seeing us.


Big PJ Party:
Many nights I visit the girls’ dorm and it takes me back (way back) to my middle/high school PJ party days. The girls are doing each other’s hair, putting on make up, laughing at pictures in a book & generally having a good time. Last night, they were “doing up MooMooPu”. Bright red lipstick & rouge, black eyelids, Cleopatra eyes, & backcombed hair with fresh flowers. I have been the center of several of these make up sessions. Imagine, spending every night with your friends. So often I see them walking arm & arm, sharing laughs. Though it pains me to think they don’t have their parents…at least they have each other & of course, Big Mama (Tasanee).


Saturday Company:
Tasanee invited her brother’s family to church today…His family included his wife, 9 daughters, mother, aunt, and about 40 kids he cares for (at the Safe Haven Learning Center which is where we dropped food & blankets that first week). Church started up shortly after they arrived…but didn’t end shortly after. Singing, preaching, singing, bible reading, singing and more singing filled up over two hours. Lunch was then served to all--guest first. As usual, Rog & I didn’t know what the game plan was for the day, so about 1 we set out some art supplies. Ever seen flies on honey??? Two hours later, people started gathering at the church again, so we did a quick clean up & back to church. More singing…one time with Tasanee’s brother playing chords on the piano, preaching, singing, etc…just under two hours. Then back to the art projects until dinner…again for all…and with cookies too. Soccer was next with the big guys playing on one end & the younger boys on the other. Didn’t seem to matter that they often mingled & most were playing on the cement surface barefooted. Around 7, about half jumped in the back of the truck & Chom drove them home & then came back for the rest. Now that’s what you call “Having company for the day.”

Catholic Church:
We finally got around to stopping by the Catholic Church. We met a young girl & older couple all from France. The young girl was working for an NGO evidently checking up on their donated funds & teaching English. The older couple was making furniture for the church & for small villages the priest visits. The grounds housed kids from the small villages too far for the kids to walk to daily. The whole place was quite upscale--compared to Safe Haven. Church had woven roof with carved trim, teak flooring, colored windows & several nice statues. We were surprised that no one there even knew about Safe Haven. We found out what time church was (not that going to church everyday at Safe Haven wasn’t enough) & on Sunday arrived to see all the girls dressed in gorgeous white Karen gowns worn by those not yet married. Their mother’s had woven them. It made me sad to think of all the girls at Safe Haven that did not have a mother to sew them a gown.

Thailand #19

Sabbath
Teacher welcomes everyone to Sabbath at 7 PM on Friday night. After many hymns and some preaching / bible stories, each person is expected to perform individually or as part of a group.
Most chose to perform with a group and were accompanied by the guitarist. Tonight brought a new twist- Pa So (who has a beautiful voice and cooks, cleans and cares for the infants day and night) , Mo Mo Say and Mu Mu Po sang and were accompanied by Chom on the piano keyboard. Jane and I sang “Amazing Grace” accompanied by a recorded piano version on the keyboard. Chom also sang a song in English , “He will show me the way when it seems there is no way…”(the only thing in the entire service that we understood aside from “Amazing Grace”).
Several groups of boys sang a song that seemed to have profound meaning for them. It is about asking God to provide guidance for us so we can lead a good life and be a good example for others. They sang with reverence and feeling that told me they really felt the words they were singing. They seem to feel honored and privileged to share this song with their brothers and sisters. They have all lost their previous life and now have found a new life here at Safe Haven. Amazingly, no one acts like they got a raw deal. This new life fills them with joy.

Balloon Project
When the kids get home from school about 4:30, Jane works with Ganika on English and I sometimes supervise an art project for the younger kids. We had planned to decorate balloons and all of the kids were excited to get a balloon to blow up. It quickly turned in to a big game of “Punch the balloon to keep it in the air” -15 kids with balloons laughing and jumping around in the sand in front of the church. Several of the big boys (who usually don’t get to participate because they work in the garden after school) saw all the fun and stopped to get their balloons. They quickly decorated with simple art and one drew on his balloon a broken heart with an arrow going through it. Inside the heart he wrote “I love Big Mum (Tasanee)”.
Another boy also drew a heart and wrote “ I miss you”. When I asked who it was he missed,
he said, “You.” It might have been his way of saying “Thank You“--Valentine heart style.

Visitors
Visitors from Canada stopped by the orphanage and brought a couple of tins of huge cookies for the kids. As the children arrived home from school each one stopped , placed palms together, feet together, and briefly bowed their head before greeting each visitor with“Sawadee Crop” (boys) or “Sawadee Kaa” (girls). A line quickly formed and each child was allowed to take as many cookies as they wanted. Some walked off with their shirts acting as a basket to cradle as many as eight or ten. A bit later Jane and I were both offered cookies by kids that wanted to share their treasure (or were they just learning that their eyes were bigger than their stomachs?).

Songs
We are recognizing a few songs. They use very few of the songs we are familiar with. Today we recognized the music (but none of the words) to “The Old Rugged Cross”, “Tell Me The Story Of Jesus”, “How Great Thou Art”, and “Praise God From Whom All Blessings Flow…” I think we failed at teaching “ Because He Lives I Can Face Tomorrow”. No one has mentioned it for several days. Jane also asked about the Lord’s Prayer where we ask God for our daily bread…they get daily rice around here! Also true for most of the rest of the world.

Thailand #18

Refugee Camp-
Found out why the Safe Haven website called this a refugee camp: several times in the past when large numbers of refugee were crossing the Moie River, many ended up here until they could get into the UN camp or return to Burma. Sometimes as many as 100 would be camped somewhere on this site. Tasanne wisely does not share info on the children but likely many of them are also refugees.

The Moie River

Noah’s Ark:
I am convinced that if any of these children had been aboard Noah’s Ark--we would not have any animals on this earth. As I was reading the story to several of the small ones, they constantly pointed to the animals and then pretended to be eating saying MMMMMmmmm!

Self-Sufficient
Last night a truck pulled in and unloaded bamboo that will be used to build a chicken farm. Tasanne plans to make this place more self-sufficient. That made us think about the fact that in a way, we are becoming less self-sufficient. A hundred years ago in USA, most people lived like they do here. Building their own homes, growing their own food, making clothing , candles & furniture, no machines and little contact with others. No doubt most kids here could do that right now. We in America on the other hand, have grown to rely on machines & others for most everything. Is that progress?? It sure is more comfortable …but does often mean double incomes & more stress.

Teacher’s Warning:
A local teacher stopped by today to let Tasanne know that some older children in the school had made a “big mistake” and had been kicked out and now will probably never be able to finish. None of our children were involved but he wanted her to know so she could warn the children.

Bathroom Classroom:
As I was scrubbing my feet tonight (and believe me they needed it), several boys came in dressed in their undies & started to bath--which here means throw cold water on yourself, suds up & then pour more cold water over you. I told them I was washing my feet--which they, as usual, repeated as a way to practice their English --so I continued to talk about how I washed my feet--they repeated and asked me to spell--so I encouraged them to give me letters as I sounded out FEET, SOAP, BRUSH, WATER, PAIL--all the while they bathed. Once a teacher--always a teacher--where ever you are!!!

A Few Things We’ve Been Up To:
-Recent art projects: spiral snakes, painting with cotton balls, feathered birds, drawings complete with sprinkles (lots), clocks with moveable hands, puppets….

-Made Let A Poe wash his shirts as he doesn’t need another reason for others to tease him. He seemed pleased to get the soap I gave him & the supervision while scrubbing his shirts.
-Rog purchased the DVD of Cats & Dogs for the kids…fun night!
-Rog also purchased a hammock that he hung in our room…closest thing to a lazy boy chair around here!
-Chom made us some delicious spaghetti. The sweet sauce had tomatoes, carrots, onions, garlic & chicken.
-Had to clean a head wound as his brother knocked him down & he hit a rock. Bloody proof these kids aren’t perfect.
-Elsi will be pleased to know that Chom played the piano keyboard at church tonight!!!



Big Boss
Christmas (short little 3 yrs old) saw another much older kid take a toy away from his 1 yr old buddy Cerio. He shook his little fist & shouted “You give it back NOW or I will beat you up!!”(In Karen language but translated by Chom) Cerio got his toy back.


DHS Motto
Many of my HS classmates sent me birthday emails most pointing out that 60 is not really that old--as they too would soon be 60 & felt much younger. That made me think of our class motto: If tomorrow be sad or not come at all, at least we’ve had today. DHS Class of ‘69 was wise beyond their years.

Thailand #17

Mae Sot Observations:
Most stores were also homes so many young children were running around. No child care cost here. Cooking & eating on the job is common & when I asked about a bathroom, I was proudly escorted into the bathroom in their home. There were many repair shops working on old TV sets, washing machines, refrigerators, computers, motorbikes, etc….and I stress, OLD. And without a doubt, the strangest sight was a shiny, new government building decorated with Chinese lanterns & Easter bunnies wearing skull caps in the front windows and a golden Buddha shrine just inside the gate. Go figure. It reminded me of a saying I recently read: Don’t miss the ordinary while looking for the extraordinary.


Leaving Mae Sot

After almost two days of city life, we actually were ready to get back to our “home,” Strange how quickly this place that looked so uninhabitable when we first arrived (which ironically happened to be on the day Thai celebrates the Festival of the Children) has become so comfortable. Where else could I get escorts to & from the bathroom? Just before we left Mae Sot, we got to meet the youngest orphan--4 months old--Joseph. He stays in Mae Sot cared for by a jolly, chubby woman who reminded me of Aunt Jemima--only she chewed tobacco. Johnny is staying there too. He had a very long face as we were leaving and Tasanne gave him a long, loving hug & handed him 50 bahts ($1.75)…that cheered him up. We made several stops at the open market which overflowed the back of the truck: huge bags of cauliflower, cabbage, carrots, green beans, squash, onions, whole fish & dozens of eggs. I came home with my own little stash of diet Coke & chocolate. J

A Week's Worth of Groceries

Thai-Burma Border
I found some info on the Thai-Burma border that was especially interesting--due to the fact that we are living on that border! The following was written by a group of Australian students training to be community workers: Until 1962, when the military staged a coup in Burma, life along the borders had been smooth and secure. People could move freely around their communities. They could earn their living in many different ways, gathering wild fruits & veggies in the forest, fish the river and hunt in the jungle. There is a Karen poem that has existed by oral tradition for many hundreds of years: At the border we grow a mango; we share our land, our home is one. Since 1962, Burma, previously one of the richest countries in SE Asia, has become one of the poorest. The military-controlled Burmese gov’t commits gross systematic human rights abuses daily, particularly against the many ethnic groups. They flee by crossing into Thailand to find safety but merely find themselves in another difficult situation. Illegal and with limited rights. Thailand has had to host millions of refugees from Burma, Laos & Cambodia over the years.”

And indeed, the refugees face a difficult and strange life. Visions of the refugee camp we saw bombarded me as I read through the Thai-Burma border report. Tasanne tells us about many of the children’s parents killed running away or captured & forced to walk in front of the army so they step on the mines first. Right now she is trying to find a way to help about 20 children still in Burma whose parents have been captured & they have been left to fend for themselves. I am confident that she will find a way as she is made of steal will & common sense and has a heart bigger than the mountains that divide Thai & Burma.

Another Compliment:
Feel proud that you are an American. Again I was told by a Thai that Americans have kind hearts and are generous. She thought that’s why we look so young. Good to hear…especially right before my 60th birthday.

Another View of Americans:
(Not sure if I shared this previously but wanted to make sure I got it in my writing.)
While helping a child with her homework, I was going though her English book and came across a page that made me bust out laughing. It showed children from many countries in their native clothing and with brief info under each. Example: Japanese girl: neat, study lots, enjoys drawing / Indian girl: long braided hair, plays board games / American boy (wearing his shirt unbuttoned & his cap on sideways & pants hanging low) chubby, likes video games. No joke--it was in their English text book!!

Bob and Elsi's Photos: (336 photos)

Thank you Sly's for sharing your wonderful photos with us!
Seeing pictures of our parents in their 'home away from home in Thailand'
warms our hearts and calms our nerves!!
~Bekah, Ben & Jake~



Click here to view photos