Gotta write about the roads here in Cairo. Roger thinks anyone who is ticketed for road rage ought to be sentenced to "driving in Cairo for a week." First imagine multiple dented cars in no particular lane, buses & taxis pulling over whenever someone waves (no bus stops), motorcycles with several passengers often sitting side saddle with a baby in arms or with huge warming food boxes or loaded with a variety of cargo (ladders, bread racks, chairs and my favorite, broken glass), bicycles also with passengers & cargo, constant pedestrians crossing (no crosswalks), peddlers hawking their wares weaving between moving cars, occasionally horse & buggies and cars parked most anywhere including sidewalks. Add to that scene horns blasting continuously ...especially taxis when they see us because they think we might want them to pick us up. Only one or two traffic lights.
Though the vehicles come with in inches of each other...we have not witnessed an accident...but we hardly ever see a vehicle without a scratch, missing mirror, broken taillight or dent so the evidence of accidents is prevalent!
This scene takes us back to our days in Calcutta. There and here each time you cross the road, you're playing the game of Frogger! It's best to cross with the locals.
Once you get out of Cairo & you go onto an entrance ramp (where a herd of goats are munching garbage), there's a newly constructed toll road!! It's got signs, dotted lines, guard rails and a shoulder. It has it all!! We heard they plan to extend it to Alexander in the north and Luxor in the south.
Just gotta find a better place to feed the goats!!
Sent from my iPhone
Wednesday, February 20, 2019
Update 47
Francine (RE fundraiser) asked us to speak at church for the prison ministry so we found ourselves up front again. We both told the stories about the individuals we'd met in prison & then asked the church members to personally support with their time and/or money.
Right after church, we went to a Thai restaurant with Monica (RE education director) & Steve, her husband and their two little ones. They've been in Egypt for 6 years and as I wrote in an earlier update, they run a Sudanese community center & live in their settlement. It was nice to be "out with friends."
Then we took an Uber till we got to the Main Street in front of Mokattam....better known as Garbage City.. From there we had to take a Tuk Tuk into the bosom of the area. As you can guess, this is where the garbage collectors live & recycle the garbage of Cairo. There actually was a documentary recently made about them that claimed they recycle close to 90% of what they collect.
How do you describe the scenes?? Small rooms with piles of sorted trash being stuffed in grain bags or metal being pounded flat or welded together or cardboard bundled...kids of all ages, dogs, cats, chickens all dodging between Tuk Tuks, trucks with a mile high loads of trash & carts bringing in more loot.
When we got to the top of the rather steep hill, we were in front of the Coptic Cave Church...a local priest's mission to provide a church & also a hospital for the people who live in this "city." In an actual cave, the church seats up to 10,000 & the walls have impressive carvings of bible scenes.
On our walk down, we turned into an alley way, walked behind a trash pile & knocked on the door of Monica's friend. Inside was a small room with a bench coved with a slightly worn blanket, a bed, an old frig covered with stickers, rusty wash machine, table covered with a sheet & a pile of who knows what...and a woman delighted to visit with us & offering us sodas & treats. Her daughter & small grandson joined us. With Monica to translate, she shared pictures of her birthday party and her daughter's wedding (really how'd they pull that off???). She was as proud as any Mother of the Bride.
When it was time to leave, she invited to dinner anytime. I knew we wouldn't chance eating there which made me feel snobby.
Being able to get into the guts of places we visit happens because we get to know and be trusted by locals. It's what makes our trips deep & real.
Cherif (our Dexter friend, Jo's family) had asked us to stop in so we swung by his house on our way home. We showed him some pictures ...he looked at them and said, "He is my patient, Steve Mehaffey!" He even had his number so immediately called Steve to tell him that we were at his home.
In this city of 20 million+ where Monica and Steve live far from Cherif who's related to our Dexter friend..What are the chances???
Sent from my iPhone
Right after church, we went to a Thai restaurant with Monica (RE education director) & Steve, her husband and their two little ones. They've been in Egypt for 6 years and as I wrote in an earlier update, they run a Sudanese community center & live in their settlement. It was nice to be "out with friends."
Then we took an Uber till we got to the Main Street in front of Mokattam....better known as Garbage City.. From there we had to take a Tuk Tuk into the bosom of the area. As you can guess, this is where the garbage collectors live & recycle the garbage of Cairo. There actually was a documentary recently made about them that claimed they recycle close to 90% of what they collect.
How do you describe the scenes?? Small rooms with piles of sorted trash being stuffed in grain bags or metal being pounded flat or welded together or cardboard bundled...kids of all ages, dogs, cats, chickens all dodging between Tuk Tuks, trucks with a mile high loads of trash & carts bringing in more loot.
When we got to the top of the rather steep hill, we were in front of the Coptic Cave Church...a local priest's mission to provide a church & also a hospital for the people who live in this "city." In an actual cave, the church seats up to 10,000 & the walls have impressive carvings of bible scenes.
On our walk down, we turned into an alley way, walked behind a trash pile & knocked on the door of Monica's friend. Inside was a small room with a bench coved with a slightly worn blanket, a bed, an old frig covered with stickers, rusty wash machine, table covered with a sheet & a pile of who knows what...and a woman delighted to visit with us & offering us sodas & treats. Her daughter & small grandson joined us. With Monica to translate, she shared pictures of her birthday party and her daughter's wedding (really how'd they pull that off???). She was as proud as any Mother of the Bride.
When it was time to leave, she invited to dinner anytime. I knew we wouldn't chance eating there which made me feel snobby.
Being able to get into the guts of places we visit happens because we get to know and be trusted by locals. It's what makes our trips deep & real.
Cherif (our Dexter friend, Jo's family) had asked us to stop in so we swung by his house on our way home. We showed him some pictures ...he looked at them and said, "He is my patient, Steve Mehaffey!" He even had his number so immediately called Steve to tell him that we were at his home.
In this city of 20 million+ where Monica and Steve live far from Cherif who's related to our Dexter friend..What are the chances???
Sent from my iPhone
Tuesday, February 19, 2019
Update 46
We are again asking ourselves, WHY US?? Today we were driven to Menouf about two hours north...into the Nile delta where lush green rich fields were growing a mass of food using manpower & donkeys. The only single family homes we saw between Cairo & Menouf were a few old adobe homes .Next to them were fairly newer tall buildings of reinforced pillars & framework with bricks filling in the open spaces. Most had reinforcement rods still sticking out on top...ready to add more stories. No money wasted on exterior paint. We didn't see any "live" construction but we imagine that not long ago...the old adobe homes were demolished to make room for the new tall buildings.
It was market day in Menouf and the road was nearly impossible to get down...overloaded tables, trucks, cloths spread on the ground all covered with food, clothing, household items, etc...and people!! People cleaning chickens, washing eggs, picnicking, etc...and shopping!
We were taken to a school...the only Anglican school around, 1000 students, 25 P-10th classrooms. We were asked to observe & make recommendations. Who told anyone we were qualified to do that?? Two old retired teachers??
Soon after we arrived, we were eating tameya (bean pita sandwich)& visiting with the principal, Mr. George. He explained his school was all inclusive...anyone could come...and he wanted to offer the very best education so that the school would continue to thrive & grow. They had plans to add on. Under Nasser, it was closed for many years & was reopened in 1984. Today the school still has many government controls forced to charge a set amount & take a certain number of students. More students than they have room for...
The school was neat & clean(especially compared to the rest of Menouf) and the halls & classrooms were filled with attractive & educational displays.
We visited 6 English classrooms for about 30 minutes each...enjoying the lessons, taking notes & feeling like who am I to suggest anything?? All of the teachers were good...two exceptional! Lessons were well presented & students engaged.
We were in Mr. George's office when the dismissal bell rang & many kids walked in to shake his hand & say good bye. He obviously enjoyed his students! After serving us a feast prepared by school staff, then went for a quick tour of the church & met the Indian pastors before being to taken to the room they'd arranged for us. Not the Ritz!! Mr. George said, "Doable for 1 night." Cold...and no hot water...and no towels...made us appreciate our nice room in Cairo!!
He left & we crashed. He was back 2 hours later & we walked our streets...literally because there were no sidewalks. It's a busy city with lots of new businesses & 6 million people. We stopped for dessert & then a friend of his picked us up in his horse & buggy & delivered us back to our room. You'd think we were celebrities...well except for our room that night. We brainstormed for tomorrow before wrapping up in the wool blankets and went to sleep wondering WHY US??
Day 2 in Menouf—
7:30 am Mr. George picked us up & at 8 all the students gathered in the sports field & we were introduced. Then we were asked to speak. Yikes no time to prep! Roger talked about their deep history & that the future of Egypt was on the shoulders of these young students. I followed talking about goals, importance for a good education & the necessity of being kind to all.
We observed the rest of the English classes till about 12:30. Then we sat around a table with all the English teachers...dedicated, hardworking & eager to learn teachers. I admired them! What they (and most) teachers needed was a pat on the back which we gave them ...pointing out many best practices we'd seen. We suggested that they teach each other their most successful strategies. We did have a few new ideas for them prefacing them with the fact that they know best...and they need smaller class size (average 45) and some type of projector so they didn't have to write everything on a whiteboard with their backs to the class. They readily agreed and asked that we make sure we told Mr. George (which we did).
I felt so comfortable sitting there with them...such comradely. Teachers are my kindred spirits! They were so appreciative with all our suggestions & so pleased to have us there!
As we enjoyed a huge bowl of koshari (national dish of noodles, rice, lentils w/ a tomato sauce), we summarized for Mr. George our observations...especially the teachers request. He talked about his deep desire to give these kids a great education and to have God's love shine through him...not by words but by his actions.
Our driver picked us up at 2:30 & by 4 we were "home"...exhausted & still wondering WHY US???
Sent from my iPhone
It was market day in Menouf and the road was nearly impossible to get down...overloaded tables, trucks, cloths spread on the ground all covered with food, clothing, household items, etc...and people!! People cleaning chickens, washing eggs, picnicking, etc...and shopping!
We were taken to a school...the only Anglican school around, 1000 students, 25 P-10th classrooms. We were asked to observe & make recommendations. Who told anyone we were qualified to do that?? Two old retired teachers??
Soon after we arrived, we were eating tameya (bean pita sandwich)& visiting with the principal, Mr. George. He explained his school was all inclusive...anyone could come...and he wanted to offer the very best education so that the school would continue to thrive & grow. They had plans to add on. Under Nasser, it was closed for many years & was reopened in 1984. Today the school still has many government controls forced to charge a set amount & take a certain number of students. More students than they have room for...
The school was neat & clean(especially compared to the rest of Menouf) and the halls & classrooms were filled with attractive & educational displays.
We visited 6 English classrooms for about 30 minutes each...enjoying the lessons, taking notes & feeling like who am I to suggest anything?? All of the teachers were good...two exceptional! Lessons were well presented & students engaged.
We were in Mr. George's office when the dismissal bell rang & many kids walked in to shake his hand & say good bye. He obviously enjoyed his students! After serving us a feast prepared by school staff, then went for a quick tour of the church & met the Indian pastors before being to taken to the room they'd arranged for us. Not the Ritz!! Mr. George said, "Doable for 1 night." Cold...and no hot water...and no towels...made us appreciate our nice room in Cairo!!
He left & we crashed. He was back 2 hours later & we walked our streets...literally because there were no sidewalks. It's a busy city with lots of new businesses & 6 million people. We stopped for dessert & then a friend of his picked us up in his horse & buggy & delivered us back to our room. You'd think we were celebrities...well except for our room that night. We brainstormed for tomorrow before wrapping up in the wool blankets and went to sleep wondering WHY US??
Day 2 in Menouf—
7:30 am Mr. George picked us up & at 8 all the students gathered in the sports field & we were introduced. Then we were asked to speak. Yikes no time to prep! Roger talked about their deep history & that the future of Egypt was on the shoulders of these young students. I followed talking about goals, importance for a good education & the necessity of being kind to all.
We observed the rest of the English classes till about 12:30. Then we sat around a table with all the English teachers...dedicated, hardworking & eager to learn teachers. I admired them! What they (and most) teachers needed was a pat on the back which we gave them ...pointing out many best practices we'd seen. We suggested that they teach each other their most successful strategies. We did have a few new ideas for them prefacing them with the fact that they know best...and they need smaller class size (average 45) and some type of projector so they didn't have to write everything on a whiteboard with their backs to the class. They readily agreed and asked that we make sure we told Mr. George (which we did).
I felt so comfortable sitting there with them...such comradely. Teachers are my kindred spirits! They were so appreciative with all our suggestions & so pleased to have us there!
As we enjoyed a huge bowl of koshari (national dish of noodles, rice, lentils w/ a tomato sauce), we summarized for Mr. George our observations...especially the teachers request. He talked about his deep desire to give these kids a great education and to have God's love shine through him...not by words but by his actions.
Our driver picked us up at 2:30 & by 4 we were "home"...exhausted & still wondering WHY US???
Sent from my iPhone
Monday, February 18, 2019
Update 45 by Roger
Our class continues to go well and as we get to know our students better, their personalities are being revealed bit by bit. Many are quick to smile and those who come to class regularly show us that they have courage to try to do something that is very difficult. Alfadel is tall and is often smiling or laughing. Dalya is quiet and polite but also confident of her ability to speak English and would respond to every question if given the opportunity. Zebeb seemed a bit distant at first, but now appears to be comfortable and trusts us to help her learn. She is probably close to 40 and we noticed this week that she couldn't see the board very well even when she moved to the front row. Jane spoke to the director of Refuge Egypt and they plan to get her eyes checked and get her some glasses. When Jane told her she was so excited I thought she would cry. Rose has several children, Tayeba struggles to learn and is visibly shaken when her answer is wrong.
We recently gave them a quiz and have to admit we thought they'd do better. Many did not follow directions or understand what to do. So Jane & I gave them a big pep talk telling them if they are thinking this is too hard, it is. If they are telling themselves they can do it, they will. We passed out erasers and told them to fix their mistakes because the best way to learn is by studying their mistakes. We also gave them a copy of the test & the answers so they could keep practicing.
At the end of the class and actually each class most say, "Thank you, Teacher." and shake our hands as they leave.
We want them all to succeed and hope it will get them a better job...a better life!!
We recently gave them a quiz and have to admit we thought they'd do better. Many did not follow directions or understand what to do. So Jane & I gave them a big pep talk telling them if they are thinking this is too hard, it is. If they are telling themselves they can do it, they will. We passed out erasers and told them to fix their mistakes because the best way to learn is by studying their mistakes. We also gave them a copy of the test & the answers so they could keep practicing.
At the end of the class and actually each class most say, "Thank you, Teacher." and shake our hands as they leave.
We want them all to succeed and hope it will get them a better job...a better life!!
Update 44
Rog has been scouring the travel books & found a cultural show close by so off we went. It was in an old palace in the open air courtyard. It was packed so we were lucky to find a seat. The show started with a live band of flutes, drums, a type of violin & finger cymbals which made lively Egyptian music. Then the Suni dancers came on stage spinning wildly which made their heavy colorful skirts flare out. This went on for over 30 minutes!! Another set of spinners came out tossing their skirts in the air while still spinning...again for 30 minutes! We were dizzy watching! How those guys stopped on a dime, took a bow & walked off stage without staggering was beyond us!!
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Sunday, February 17, 2019
Update 43
Made a trip to Saqqarah. 4700 years!! That's how old the pyramids there are! Yup, you read that right. These pyramids, known as the Step Pyramids are a generation older than the famous Giza Pyramids. Prior to the Step pyramids, pharaohs just had a huge slab places over their graves...than someone suggested putting another one a bit smaller on top of that one...than 3...till it created steps to the top. Blows our minds how old these are..and we could walk right up & touch them. We could also walk down into their tomb chambers & see more incredible drawings.
Also nearby was the Serapeum...an underground tunnel where about 20 "sacred" bulls were mummified & buried in polished marble 80 ton caskets. Can't imagine how or why they did that! But it was fascinating.
The museum there housed the oldest known arch, pillar & door...also hands-on displays.
My appreciation for history has certainly deepened & heightened on this trip!
Sent from my iPhone
Also nearby was the Serapeum...an underground tunnel where about 20 "sacred" bulls were mummified & buried in polished marble 80 ton caskets. Can't imagine how or why they did that! But it was fascinating.
The museum there housed the oldest known arch, pillar & door...also hands-on displays.
My appreciation for history has certainly deepened & heightened on this trip!
Sent from my iPhone
Update 42 by Roger
I joined about eight women and two men today for another visit to the prison for foreigners here in Cairo. Men's prison this time.
I first met John, a man who came from the Seychelles Islands by boat. He came to Egypt for a better life. Someone had told him to carry something for them and then threatened to kill him. He seemed confused about reasons why, but the final outcome was his imprisonment. He has a life sentence and has been here for 16 years. He was calm and our conversation was easy. His belief in God gives him peace.
Hisham also has a life sentence. He told me about loving to be out in the wilderness off-roading....always far from other people. He described himself as having been a young man who would often get into fights and had been in a gang. After his sentence he found himself in solitary confinement (for fighting).
A woman visited him and left a Bible for him. He had never before taken any interest in religion but remembered his mother reading some verses from Psalms. His tiny cell had no light but for a faint glow entering under the door. It was just enough so that by putting the Bible on the floor he could read some verses from Psalms. It gave him hope. The light of the world opened up to him and changed him. He thanked me for visiting and listening to his story.
Metardo has been in the prison for 30 years. He has studied and now is a priest/minister. At the end of our visit he had all visitors and prisoners join hands and sing-giving thanks to God. He then thanked all of the visitors who "humbled" themselves by giving up their comforts and time with their families to visit the prisoners.
In two weeks the men will again have the chance for a visit and I expect that the same group of dedicated visitors will be there for them.
Jane adds: I also made another visit...kind of scary this time as the warden is such a tough cookie. While waiting I talked with a regular visitor from the church and asked him if he thought arresting drug carriers was helping Egypt clean up the drug scene. Nope, he said. They don't catch the drug lords...just the peons that are easily and quickly replaced.
These prisoners made a bad decision...they are not bad people.
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, February 15, 2019
Update 41
Our buddy at the gas station downloaded A Private War for us. It was the story of Marie Colton, a war zone reporter. Her story touched a chord in me. When someone asked her why she goes into such terrible places, she answered, "I come to see for myself. And so that people know." The movie vividly showed why these refugees fled from their homes in the middle of war zones. Horrid & unsafe conditions. No food. They flee for their lives & the lives of their children.
Here I see for myself these refugees. Their pain & their frustration as they wait in endless lines to get a small handout or to get an interview for a cleaning job. They search through their purses for legal papers. They sit or stand for hours holding babies who are uncommonly quiet.
Yet they smile at me and are kind to each other. I see them pick up fallen items for others and offer their chair to an older or crippled person. There's no pushing. I wonder how they manage to get up each morning, find & cook food, wash clothings & get to this center on time for an appointment??
The enormity of the situation...5 million...baffles my mind and I have to force myself to concentrate on what I can do for the moment to make things a tiny bit better for them.
Sent from my iPhone
Here I see for myself these refugees. Their pain & their frustration as they wait in endless lines to get a small handout or to get an interview for a cleaning job. They search through their purses for legal papers. They sit or stand for hours holding babies who are uncommonly quiet.
Yet they smile at me and are kind to each other. I see them pick up fallen items for others and offer their chair to an older or crippled person. There's no pushing. I wonder how they manage to get up each morning, find & cook food, wash clothings & get to this center on time for an appointment??
The enormity of the situation...5 million...baffles my mind and I have to force myself to concentrate on what I can do for the moment to make things a tiny bit better for them.
Sent from my iPhone
Update 40
Cairo has what seems like an endless number of blah brown brick 5 to 20+ story buildings where the 20 million live. On the outside of these giants are so many balconies and at first I thought, how nice to have someplace to get fresh air, see the sky & feel the sun. But after being here over a month, I 've only seen people on their balconies 3 times...my favorites was a young man tenderly holding a small baby. It's funny how moments like that can glow in your memory.
Another warm time was while we were in a taxi...traffic was heavy, as usual & the driver spoke more English than most (usually less than 10 words). While we waited in a traffic jam, we asked our driver about his family. His face lit up instantly as he said several times, "I love my children!" He pulled out his phone and showed us pictures of his six kids...until he had to drive on...but at the next traffic jam...he repeated "I love my children..and I will have one more soon" and showed us more pictures.
We asked him about how much of the day he had to drive—7 am to 9 or 10 pm. And how many days—-oh, everyday...everyday.
We'd arrived at our destination, tipped him heavily & handed him balloons for his children as he drove off.
A loving dad...who worked 14+ hours every day. We wondered when he had time to give his kids all the love he had for them?!?
Sent from my iPhone
Another warm time was while we were in a taxi...traffic was heavy, as usual & the driver spoke more English than most (usually less than 10 words). While we waited in a traffic jam, we asked our driver about his family. His face lit up instantly as he said several times, "I love my children!" He pulled out his phone and showed us pictures of his six kids...until he had to drive on...but at the next traffic jam...he repeated "I love my children..and I will have one more soon" and showed us more pictures.
We asked him about how much of the day he had to drive—7 am to 9 or 10 pm. And how many days—-oh, everyday...everyday.
We'd arrived at our destination, tipped him heavily & handed him balloons for his children as he drove off.
A loving dad...who worked 14+ hours every day. We wondered when he had time to give his kids all the love he had for them?!?
Sent from my iPhone
Wednesday, February 13, 2019
Update 39
Since we were planning to be at a school in Menof on Valentine's Day, we decided to take a day off & celebrate it early. Unfortunately, the night before, Microsoft decided to shut down our email...really, hadn't they figured out we were in Egypt??? So instead of heading out for an adventure, we headed to an Apple Store that luckily we'd spotted earlier. It wasn't an easy fix so we were told to come back later...when the tech was in. So we stopped in to visit with Jo's relatives which delighted them...especially Granny.
Back at the Apple store, more bad news. The tech had to delete my account & wait for 24 hours. (Meanwhile back home, Bekah logged into our account & reported that all the activities were ours. Fast forward: it worked!!)
Finally, about 3 pm, we climbed aboard a felucca...just the two of us & the captain. As a gentle breeze caught the sail, we glided away from the chaos & noice of Cairo. So peaceful and relaxing!
The sun slowly slipped toward the horizon and a glorious sunset painted the sky and the Nile River. How's that for a romantic scene??
Back on land, we went to a lovely Lebanese restaurant and each ordered a meal (we usually share) and then to top off the evening, we stopped for dessert in the oldest bakery in town. My pie was like eating pure fudge & Roger's like caramel walnuts.
I hadn't eaten that much in a long time...and my stomach was overwhelmed! Thank good this glutton had some Pepto Bismol!
Rog, of course, had no problem & slept like a well fed baby!
Sent from my iPhone
Back at the Apple store, more bad news. The tech had to delete my account & wait for 24 hours. (Meanwhile back home, Bekah logged into our account & reported that all the activities were ours. Fast forward: it worked!!)
Finally, about 3 pm, we climbed aboard a felucca...just the two of us & the captain. As a gentle breeze caught the sail, we glided away from the chaos & noice of Cairo. So peaceful and relaxing!
The sun slowly slipped toward the horizon and a glorious sunset painted the sky and the Nile River. How's that for a romantic scene??
Back on land, we went to a lovely Lebanese restaurant and each ordered a meal (we usually share) and then to top off the evening, we stopped for dessert in the oldest bakery in town. My pie was like eating pure fudge & Roger's like caramel walnuts.
I hadn't eaten that much in a long time...and my stomach was overwhelmed! Thank good this glutton had some Pepto Bismol!
Rog, of course, had no problem & slept like a well fed baby!
Sent from my iPhone
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)