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Sunday, March 10, 2019

Duck, Duck, Goose






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Update 65

Mr. Lee invited us to visit him where he teaches refugee children at the St. Andrews Church. The school is run by a Scandinavian and employs mostly teachers who themselves are or were refugees. Mr. Lee is from S. Sudan.
As we enjoyed watching the kids play a game similar to Duck, Duck, Goose, he told us that the kids were from many African countries. Countries where they'd be fighting rather than playing. Here they were all friends, colorblind & accepting. There they'd grow up to be bitter enemies for no other reason than the tribe they were born into.
Then he spoke of his own country. He told us it was so very beautiful...yet so dangerous for his tribe. Though all in S.Sudan look very much like the Dinka, the ruling tribe. The only thing that identifies you is your accent.
He tried to return to his home once a long time ago. He'd heard gun shots in the night. When he opened his door in the morning...there were 7 bodies. His sister told him it was a light day...usually many more. No one dared come and claim the bodies. They'd be dragged away and never seen again.
On this same campus, many UNHCR lawyers help asylum seekers to get their papers. Most had come by camel or on the Nile illegally because their home countries wouldn't give them papers to leave. They fear arrest daily. Sometimes police wait outside the gate of St. Andrews ready to arrest.
Seeing the joy on the children's faces as they chanted and chased each other, I had to think of their future...would they be passed over (like the Duck), chased (like the Goose) and get caught or make it back to their safe spot.

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Foods here!!






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Update 64

Old Mother Hubbard went to her cupboard...and it was bare!! That's what happened last week at Refuge Egypt. No food to bag. No food to pass out. We'd made a plea to our home church and in God's good timing...generous donations have filled the cupboard again!! Enough for 2 months...and now we can add powdered milk too. Amazing how joyful that makes me feel!
So with happy & humble hearts, we am filling food bags again!! We've become quite efficient at it! We filled @200 rice/lentil bags in just an hour and a half!!
We asked what will happen when this food runs out and the answer we got: "God will provide. He always does."


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Thursday, March 7, 2019

Update 63

Egypt Tidbits:
-if the vendor doesn't have the right change...no problem...they just hand you a cookie or piece of gum
-commonly see a makeshift table set up under a bridge and brewing tea over a fire
-men sitting on chairs with barely a breath of life left...often right on the street
-cars parked with their bumpers touching
-car with flat tires & 2" of dust parked in valuable parking spot
-the most common greeting we hear: Welcome to Egypt
-the most common response we hear after hearing that we're Americans: America is #1
-funniest response to how current situation in Egypt: We Egyptians are exhausted...taking a break...we've been the center of civilization for such a long time...someone else's turn!
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Update 62

We've been so lucky to be close to a cinema that shows Hollywood movies in English ...for $4 and popcorn is less that $2...and you can Corey in your 30 cents can of Coke Lite!!  
In this state of the art on a big screen, we saw Upside and The Green Book.  we loved both and ironically, the theme of both was similar...only in reverse.  Both about prejudice between white/black but reversing the role of which is wealthy/which is the comedian.  We weren't surprised that The Green Book won so many Oscars!
Since Bohemian Rhapsody also won an Oscar, we went to that too.  And glad we did!  A main theme in it was homosexuality...the same theme as the United Methodist General Conference which just concluded in St. Louis.  
Here we hear from refugees about how Egyptians consider themselves better and don't want to hire them.  Even in their home countries, people fight just based on their tribe.
Man's prejudices have and continue to cause such pain.  Mark Twain has a been quoted saying...
"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime."
As a traveler...I sure hope that's true.

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Monday, March 4, 2019

Zamalek Marriott



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Islamic Cairo & Turkish bath






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Manual Palace






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Update 61

Cairo is so jammed packed with remarkable relics of the past that after 6 weeks, we still haven't seen them all!
Here's a few we've visited on our free days:

Manual Palace Museum
Home of the Crown Prince Mohamed Ali Tewfik, dazzling, exquisite, lavish are a few words that come to mind. He designed it himself & spared no expense. He filled it with inherited splendid furniture, family portraits & Turkish tapestry. The complex included a throne room, a clock tower, a mosque, a golden hall and a residence hall.
Islamic Cairo

One of the oldest areas in Cairo and has over 20 buildings built between 1200-1400 AD. Mansions, mosques, palace, churches & a Turkish bath. It boast the most outstanding example of Medieval architecture. The tile work is intricate and gorgeous. The elaborately decorated ceilings are 30-40' high with stunning chandeliers hanging from them. The detail! The workmanship! Phenomenal!

Khan Al Khalili
Massive market selling most everything from junk made in China to unique antiques. Though neither of us are shoppers—understatement-we did stroll through the streets & alleys.

Zamalek Marriott
The once magnificent palace of Empress Eugenie...built to celebrate the opening of the Suez Canal...was in near ruins when the Marriott purchased it. The have brought it back to it's earlier splendor and built the hotel around the central wing of the palace. We were united to eat lunch there by 3 couples we'd met at church. We were definitely hop-bobbing with the privileged that day!

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Update 60

Since Egypt is 90% Muslim, we've spent much time in their midst and I must say, I admire their commitment to their religion. Their clothing alone is an obviously outward sign that identifies them. In taxis almost every time of day, their speakers blare out the Koran in a methodical sing-song...especially loud in the back seat where I sit. On their dash boards, well worn Korans sit.
Five times a day, you hear the call to prayer blasting from the top of the nearest minaret...sometimes an echo from one a bit farther.
So many men have a brown spot ..some even a bump...in the center of their foreheads. Called a zebibah. They are caused by the friction between their forehead & their prayer mats. The prayer mats are everywhere...in stores, by snack shops, in subway halls...ready for the call to prayer to their one God, Allah.
I've seen many men walking along on the street, riding the subway, sitting on benches...with their prayer beads slowly passing through their fingers.
I see the Muslims being kind and generous to others...especially the street people. I too try to be kind and generous.
I haven't met one that I wouldn't want to spend more time with. As a Christian, I wear a necklace with a fish on it. That's it for an outward sign. I pray...but can't say "religiously" five times a day.
Perhaps I should. Pray for more acceptance of others worldwide.
.

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Saturday, March 2, 2019

Pompey pillar &Roman amphitheater








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Update 59

Day 2 in Alexandria, we headed out in search of the Catacombs...the largest burial site in Egypt. A 35m long shaft in the center was used as a dumb waiter to lower corpse. The most stunning burial area complete with pillars, statues & art work was for Romine Emperor Caracalla...hated by the locals as he'd killed over 20,000 that opposed him...many burned there in the catacombs with him. The seemingly endless dark tunnels had cavities in all the walls. Creepy!!
Next to Pompey's Pillar-25m-guarded by two sphinx and built on the ridge. It's surrounded by partially excavated the ancient acropolis & Serapeum. It's really got nothing to do with Pompey...misnamed by Crusaders who thought Pompey's ashes were encased on the top.
We were glad to get out of the cold wind and marvel at the Bibliotheca Alexandria (new library opened in 2002). A throughly modern building with seating for over 2000. Skylights with some blue & green stain glass made for a enchanting place to learn. So fitting for this city.
In the basement, the Antiquity Museum was filled with more treasures including the mosaic floor of the ancient library.
The Sadat Museum was in another wing and was a tribute to all he did in his life. The uniform he was wearing when he was assassinated in 1981 made me think of JFK. He'd been asked after his peace treaty with Israel's president & Carter what he'd like on his tombstone: That I lived for peace and died for my principles.
Another wing was a tutorial about how & what you could access...a massive amount of information on their website: www.bibalex.org
We spent over 5 hours absorbing just a fraction of what Bibliotheca has to offer!!!
I'd hoped for a nice seafood dinner but getting anyone to understand English here is near impossible & it was too cold to walk far...so we popped into the first warm restaurant ...KFC. Got back to our room, Rog hit the sack while I visited with a girl from England & then caught up on writing.
Next morning, we were able to get to the National Museum to see the items revived from under the sea thought to be from Cleopatra 's palace. And our final stop was at the Roman amphitheater discovered only recently when a donkey disappeared into a pit. Makes you wonder what else is where we were walking.
We caught the 2 pm train back enjoying once again the view from the train window.



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St Mark








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Qaitbay Fort








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Update 58

Alexandria, of course, was built by Alexander the Great in about 350 BC and was the home to the first major library. Alexander was tutored by Aristotle who encouraged the love of reading. Cleopatra had a summer palace here...which unforgettable was built on land now under the sea.
After we'd dropped our backpacks at our room, we headed to the Qaitbay Fort built in 1480's on top of the site where Pharos (light house) stood...one of the 7 wonders of the Ancient world. It only lasted 17 centuries !
Next we headed to the Coptic Cathedral of St. Mark. It's named after the apostle Mark who spent much time in Alexandria and it was here he was martyred...dragged through the streets behind 3 wild stallions. Kinda felt guilty taking a horse & buggy ride back to our hotel. We enjoyed our Mediterranean view until dark and then had to cover up & try to stay warm. It's cold here!!! Well, cold for Egypt.


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Update 57 by Roger

Hyena
I talked with  a young man from Sudan after class.  He told me that he wanted to improve his English speaking ability so I suggested that he tell me about his life.  If he made errors in speaking, I planned to point them out to him.
He told me that he was from a family of five sisters and two brothers and his father worked at a stockyard.  
After further description I found out that his father actually works with several brothers raising cattle in Sudan.  When the cattle are fully grown they sell some of them (about 10 per cent) at the market in Khartoum. They don't sell more because they like to  keep increasing the size of the herd.
He told me that they allow the cattle to graze where they can find water and grass. There is plenty of land and they apparently are not limited by land ownership or fences. The herders ride horses or camels and they also have a pickup truck. 
He said they have to protect the cattle from an animal that is a serious threat. He described the animal as having tall front shoulders so I asked if it was a hyena.  He had never heard that word before so we quickly googled Hyena and he agreed that was it.
As we talked he was very interested in the names that I used and I he carefully wrote them down in his notebook. Cow=mother
Bull=father
Calf=baby
I tried hard to imagine watching the cattle all night while anticipating an attack by a hungry hyena. His father must be a very brave man!
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Nile Delta farming








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Update 56

We were on the train to Alexandria for $5 each by 9am. Looking out a train window is one of my favorite things to do! I love getting a quick peek of the everyday life of people. We skirted the Nile as we sped by the consistently rich fields of wheat, rice, grasses, fruit trees & vegetables. Even the 10' between the tracks & road was cultivated. Rog read somewhere that some crops grow 27 times faster here. Sure saw lots of butts of the field workers...male and female. Some just sit right on the ground. Tallied 5 tractors but donkeys far out numbered them! Did see one new tractor dealer. Wonder how it will stay in business.
About halfway, we started to see groups of 3 or 4 cows tied sporadically in lanes usually under a lone tree. The manure behind them was proof they'd been there quite some time. We'd see maybe 4 or 5 groups of cows down a lane. Saw a few flocks of sheep penned up.
Pigeon houses...large cone shaped with large holes...are common. Easy quick meals!
Small villages seemed to have turned into large cities with those same tall mundane brick apartment buildings topped with re-rods sticking out the top. The fewer the buildings, the more color we saw. . But still hardly any one family homes. Egypt has a population of almost 100 million so I guess they gotta live somewhere!
Everywhere mosque which were the most beautiful building around by far. Sometimes you could see 3 or 4 unique minarets at a time.
But also we saw where the trash goes...on the side of the tracks. We'd read and heard that Egyptians haven't figured out how to deal with their trash...we saw lots of evidence of that!!
We often rode along side wide ditches/tributaries. Some even had small ferries so they could be crossed. We could see they were being used for drainage and irrigation...saw two ladies washing clothes...and unfortunately trash bins. Many of them have been dredge but the ugly mess of trash & muck was left on the banks.
I especially relish seeing sights like kids playing with sticks & stones, soccer games, carts loaded with veges, old men sitting on benches, carpenters building furniture, crowded markets, school kids with their arms around each other, women hanging their laundry on their balconies...just a peek into the ordinary life of the Egyptians!

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