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Sunday, January 6, 2013

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu
We've seen a million pictures, read the story and seen ruins in many places--but nothing prepared us for the site of Machu Picchu. Many artist have created great works of art carving wood, ice and stone...but the Inca carved a massive, granite mountain to create an entire city...all in about 100 years. We spent almost nine hours in awe and took hundreds of pictures and yet as we left, I couldn't help take yet one more look. In hundreds of years, Machu Picchu will probably still be a wonder...what have we created in the last 100 years that will awe generations to come? What an amazing amount of work the Inca had accomplished. Seeing Machu Picchu made us admire the Inca...and be dismayed that the Spanish conquistadors destroyed their cities...melted their magnificent golden statues &jewelry...and crushed a glorious civilization.
I could write mountains about today...but I'll try to hit the highlights & record a brief history. We were up at the crack of dawn peering out the bus ride that climbed about 900 ft turning sharp hairpin curves several times. Our guide, Peter gave us a brief history lesson as we passed by the plaque commemorating Hiram Bingham, the American who discovered Machu Picchu 100 years ago. He spent years leading work teams who cut through the vines, photographed the find and collected over 46,000 artifacts which were shipped to Yale Univ (which was to be given back to Peru but is still at Yale though Peru is hoping to get them back soon--shame on Yale!) Because of Bingham's meticulous work, 97% is original. A section has been left totally unescavated for the future perhaps with better methods. For the next two hours,Peter led us through many of the structures pointing out details, explaining reasons why & how things were built and creating a vivid picture of what Machu Picchu (translates old mtn) was like the early 1500's. He was very knowledgeable. I wondered if he had Inca ancestry It was the great Inca Pachacutec who greatly expanded the Inca empire with Cuzco as it's capital. Though no one is certain, he had Machu Picchu built as a summer palace and trade & education center and sacred ceremonial site. It's location is on the mountain exactly in the center of 4 other, one each facing NSEW. Built high so as to be closer to the sun god and included several temples honoring the condor (outer), puma (physical) and snake (undergrd). Pachacutec combined all these nature gods and worship the creator of all: apu kontiti pacha yachachi tecse illa wiracocha pumchao (try to say that--it translate to mtn, elements &knowledge power, mother of water, duality god) Inca rulers were mummified and carried to ceremonies & important meetings so as to help with decisions. A seasonal dial was carved out of the pinacle of the mountain which told them when to plant & harvest. Many of the building incorporated the mountain itself and all the other rock was quarried right from the mountain. (First green build) The work was done by the Inca people who were require to work for 3 months each year (their form of taxes). The soil that filled the terraces was carried up from other places on the back of the llama & these honored animals were also often used as sacrifices. (today they just have to keep the terraces mowed). About 1000 people lived there for about 100 years and then fled in fear of the Spanish though the Spanish never discovered it which is why it was not destroyed.
After Peter left us, we wondered about freely. The clouds that had engulfed us were beginning to melt away giving us grand views...and then erasing it all like an etch-a-scetch. About noon, we went to the picnic area to eat the peanut butter/jelly sandwiches we'd packed & Rog bought Bob a beer. When we opened our m & m bag--we sang Happy Birthday to Bob--75 yrs young--and the crowd joined in. After a nice visit with two Navy girls, Helen & Jennifer, we headed back into the park and were treated to a clear view of Machu Picchu and the mountains that surround it! It was like seeing it all again!! More climbing up to the top to see panoramic views, more pictures and more climbing down. The guys took off down a trail on the side of the mountain to find the Inca bridge..cliffs & sheer mts sides. They met up with Helen & Jennifer so they took turn taking pictures of each other. Finally, after almost nine hours, we were exhausted so we headed out. Rog spotted some leaf cutter ants on the hill beside us and we admired how hard they worked with such strength & determination--much like the Inca!!
We all took a nap when we got back to our hotel but by 6 we were ready to go out to have a birthday dinner & ice cream. Could a day get any better!!!