Update 36
It was packing time this morning, we are leaving our suitcases at CG & just traveling with our backpacks for the coming week. Cleaning up our condo was quick as it was basically bare. We climbed into the back of the CG van & by 9:30 was singing Onward Christian Solders ( in Tagalog--how do their words fit the melody so well?? Though I couldn't understand the sermon--the tone was accusatory--seems that's the norm in many places we've been to. Jaybee was translating for Rog--main message was be a vibrant & active Christian. After church, there was Sun School for the boys & we chatted with the minister. Then the boys piled inthe van & began chanting "Mang Inasal" & rocking the van...we'd told El we'd like to take the kids & staff to Man Inasal...where you get a 1/4 chicken, soup, drink & alllll you can eat rice! Word was out & the kids were revved up. What a blast to watch them mow down! It's a wonder there's any more rice left in Antipolo. 29 meals for less than $75. Sun p.m. was game time till about 4 when all the kids disappeared & soon we were called to the basement. A farewell son erupted...& so did my tears. Kids then individually told us what they wanted to thank us for...usually referring to us as Papa Bear & Mama Bear...though one of the girls choked up saying she felt like she had a Mommy & Daddy during our stay. They thanked us for teaching English, reading, computer learning games, fixing, painting, buying fruit,playing cards, basketball net & dinner out. But mostly they thanked us for being there each day & showing them we cared. They recognized we could have been off playing but choose to be with them. Small things in small ways...a Mother Teresa saying. Both of us tried to tell them what was in our hearts...we hope our words somehow help them heal a bit & build a stronger foundation to build their Christian life on. Then everyone circled us laying their hands on us & prayed. And once more we had to say good bye to people we'd come to love. Giving up hot showers, sleeping on 3" foam beds, washing our clothes out in a bucket, barking dogs & noisy motorcycles, sucing in exhaust & burning rubbish...actually seems like a very small price to pay for the richness of our time at CG.
El took us to catch a Manila bound taxi which took us to a bus station. And as if we weren't already feeling torn--Lydia, the cook & her son showed up...more thank you's, hugs & prayers...and a pillow with Psalms 40:1-2 ...God is our Refuge & Strength an ever present help in trouble. Therefore, we will not fear. We boarded the 10 pm bus headed for Banaue...and after reading the notes the kids had written us, we closed our eyes a bit overwhelmed by the day...hours later, we still had our eyes closed but it was nearly impossible to sleep as the plastic covered bus seats meant we kept slipping nearly off the seat. 9 hours & several cat naps later, we arrived at Banaue.
Update 37
As soon as we got to Banaue we saw them: the ancient (2000 yr old) & spectacular rice terraces that creeped up the mountains like a giant stairway...proving the most basic need for the Ifugao people. All built by hand without the aid of animals--unlike Machu Pichu where llama were used. Though it was named a World Heritage site in 1995, little has been done to assure their future & with more & more youth choosing to leave the labor intensive & subsistence life...like in China...their future is uncertain. Banaue is a busy town with many trekkers filling the hotels and keeping the local guides busy as they are necessary to traverse the vast mountain area. We wanted to learn more about the local Ifugao tribe so we went to the Banaue museum. Luckily, we were the only ones there & the 23 yr old who worked there willingly spent an hour or so answering our questions & explaining much about the culture. He himself had grown up in a traditional Ifugao hut...until his Dad deserted his family...then he had to find a job to help support his family. Soon he will be working in a local coal mine...crossing himself for safety each time he goes down. Here are a few things he shared:
-Ifugao men were heavily tattooed since the they were once head hunters & the tattoo could ID them if they lost their head. This practice in the 60's.
-Ifugao honor (not worship) their ancestors by putting their deceased body in a chair high above the hearth, picking off the dried body until only bones remained. Then the skull was mounted on the house & bones placed in nearby box. An animal is sacrificed (richer = bigger animal) as an offering & the meat is eaten by the villagers.
-Beetle nuts are chewed to give them energy & also it increases their body temperature needed in this colder area that sometimes dips to 10C. Still common as we see red teeth smiling at us often & NO SPITTING (the juice which leaves a permanent red stain) signs everywhere.
-Terraces are family owned & passed down to oldest son...sometimes 2 oldest depending size. No new ones are being built as all permanent water sources are being used. A rice farmer pays 50P ($1.25) a year income taxes. Also prop taxes but not sure $$.
-Rice here can only be planted once a year (vs. 2 or 3 times where fertilizer is used in the low lands). Rice is not exported as they can't grow enough here for their needs.
-Goats, pigs, ckns & dogs are raised for meat.
-Hoes are built on stilts with hearth on ground level, sleeping area on main floor with rice stored above that. Roofs are a dried grass...until recently when steel replaced most.
-Clothes use to be made from bark fibers & weaved...woman in striped skirts & men only wearing a long loin cloth (they call their lower ties..vs our neck tie)...and both carried better nut bag with long strings used to record days by tying one knot a day.
He told us much more ...but my favorite was his big grin when he said he loves going to visit his Grandpa who still lives in a traditional home... and being able to wear only his loin cloth again. We finished up the day watching a traditional dancing performance. Had to notice how little movement it contained--but after spending their days climbing the terraces & working in the paddies all day...they probably didn't have much energy to waste on dancing!
