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Sunday, March 10, 2019

Duck, Duck, Goose






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Update 65

Mr. Lee invited us to visit him where he teaches refugee children at the St. Andrews Church. The school is run by a Scandinavian and employs mostly teachers who themselves are or were refugees. Mr. Lee is from S. Sudan.
As we enjoyed watching the kids play a game similar to Duck, Duck, Goose, he told us that the kids were from many African countries. Countries where they'd be fighting rather than playing. Here they were all friends, colorblind & accepting. There they'd grow up to be bitter enemies for no other reason than the tribe they were born into.
Then he spoke of his own country. He told us it was so very beautiful...yet so dangerous for his tribe. Though all in S.Sudan look very much like the Dinka, the ruling tribe. The only thing that identifies you is your accent.
He tried to return to his home once a long time ago. He'd heard gun shots in the night. When he opened his door in the morning...there were 7 bodies. His sister told him it was a light day...usually many more. No one dared come and claim the bodies. They'd be dragged away and never seen again.
On this same campus, many UNHCR lawyers help asylum seekers to get their papers. Most had come by camel or on the Nile illegally because their home countries wouldn't give them papers to leave. They fear arrest daily. Sometimes police wait outside the gate of St. Andrews ready to arrest.
Seeing the joy on the children's faces as they chanted and chased each other, I had to think of their future...would they be passed over (like the Duck), chased (like the Goose) and get caught or make it back to their safe spot.

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Foods here!!






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Update 64

Old Mother Hubbard went to her cupboard...and it was bare!! That's what happened last week at Refuge Egypt. No food to bag. No food to pass out. We'd made a plea to our home church and in God's good timing...generous donations have filled the cupboard again!! Enough for 2 months...and now we can add powdered milk too. Amazing how joyful that makes me feel!
So with happy & humble hearts, we am filling food bags again!! We've become quite efficient at it! We filled @200 rice/lentil bags in just an hour and a half!!
We asked what will happen when this food runs out and the answer we got: "God will provide. He always does."


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Thursday, March 7, 2019

Update 63

Egypt Tidbits:
-if the vendor doesn't have the right change...no problem...they just hand you a cookie or piece of gum
-commonly see a makeshift table set up under a bridge and brewing tea over a fire
-men sitting on chairs with barely a breath of life left...often right on the street
-cars parked with their bumpers touching
-car with flat tires & 2" of dust parked in valuable parking spot
-the most common greeting we hear: Welcome to Egypt
-the most common response we hear after hearing that we're Americans: America is #1
-funniest response to how current situation in Egypt: We Egyptians are exhausted...taking a break...we've been the center of civilization for such a long time...someone else's turn!
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Update 62

We've been so lucky to be close to a cinema that shows Hollywood movies in English ...for $4 and popcorn is less that $2...and you can Corey in your 30 cents can of Coke Lite!!  
In this state of the art on a big screen, we saw Upside and The Green Book.  we loved both and ironically, the theme of both was similar...only in reverse.  Both about prejudice between white/black but reversing the role of which is wealthy/which is the comedian.  We weren't surprised that The Green Book won so many Oscars!
Since Bohemian Rhapsody also won an Oscar, we went to that too.  And glad we did!  A main theme in it was homosexuality...the same theme as the United Methodist General Conference which just concluded in St. Louis.  
Here we hear from refugees about how Egyptians consider themselves better and don't want to hire them.  Even in their home countries, people fight just based on their tribe.
Man's prejudices have and continue to cause such pain.  Mark Twain has a been quoted saying...
"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime."
As a traveler...I sure hope that's true.

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Monday, March 4, 2019

Zamalek Marriott



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Islamic Cairo & Turkish bath






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Manual Palace






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Update 61

Cairo is so jammed packed with remarkable relics of the past that after 6 weeks, we still haven't seen them all!
Here's a few we've visited on our free days:

Manual Palace Museum
Home of the Crown Prince Mohamed Ali Tewfik, dazzling, exquisite, lavish are a few words that come to mind. He designed it himself & spared no expense. He filled it with inherited splendid furniture, family portraits & Turkish tapestry. The complex included a throne room, a clock tower, a mosque, a golden hall and a residence hall.
Islamic Cairo

One of the oldest areas in Cairo and has over 20 buildings built between 1200-1400 AD. Mansions, mosques, palace, churches & a Turkish bath. It boast the most outstanding example of Medieval architecture. The tile work is intricate and gorgeous. The elaborately decorated ceilings are 30-40' high with stunning chandeliers hanging from them. The detail! The workmanship! Phenomenal!

Khan Al Khalili
Massive market selling most everything from junk made in China to unique antiques. Though neither of us are shoppers—understatement-we did stroll through the streets & alleys.

Zamalek Marriott
The once magnificent palace of Empress Eugenie...built to celebrate the opening of the Suez Canal...was in near ruins when the Marriott purchased it. The have brought it back to it's earlier splendor and built the hotel around the central wing of the palace. We were united to eat lunch there by 3 couples we'd met at church. We were definitely hop-bobbing with the privileged that day!

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Update 60

Since Egypt is 90% Muslim, we've spent much time in their midst and I must say, I admire their commitment to their religion. Their clothing alone is an obviously outward sign that identifies them. In taxis almost every time of day, their speakers blare out the Koran in a methodical sing-song...especially loud in the back seat where I sit. On their dash boards, well worn Korans sit.
Five times a day, you hear the call to prayer blasting from the top of the nearest minaret...sometimes an echo from one a bit farther.
So many men have a brown spot ..some even a bump...in the center of their foreheads. Called a zebibah. They are caused by the friction between their forehead & their prayer mats. The prayer mats are everywhere...in stores, by snack shops, in subway halls...ready for the call to prayer to their one God, Allah.
I've seen many men walking along on the street, riding the subway, sitting on benches...with their prayer beads slowly passing through their fingers.
I see the Muslims being kind and generous to others...especially the street people. I too try to be kind and generous.
I haven't met one that I wouldn't want to spend more time with. As a Christian, I wear a necklace with a fish on it. That's it for an outward sign. I pray...but can't say "religiously" five times a day.
Perhaps I should. Pray for more acceptance of others worldwide.
.

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Saturday, March 2, 2019

Pompey pillar &Roman amphitheater








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Update 59

Day 2 in Alexandria, we headed out in search of the Catacombs...the largest burial site in Egypt. A 35m long shaft in the center was used as a dumb waiter to lower corpse. The most stunning burial area complete with pillars, statues & art work was for Romine Emperor Caracalla...hated by the locals as he'd killed over 20,000 that opposed him...many burned there in the catacombs with him. The seemingly endless dark tunnels had cavities in all the walls. Creepy!!
Next to Pompey's Pillar-25m-guarded by two sphinx and built on the ridge. It's surrounded by partially excavated the ancient acropolis & Serapeum. It's really got nothing to do with Pompey...misnamed by Crusaders who thought Pompey's ashes were encased on the top.
We were glad to get out of the cold wind and marvel at the Bibliotheca Alexandria (new library opened in 2002). A throughly modern building with seating for over 2000. Skylights with some blue & green stain glass made for a enchanting place to learn. So fitting for this city.
In the basement, the Antiquity Museum was filled with more treasures including the mosaic floor of the ancient library.
The Sadat Museum was in another wing and was a tribute to all he did in his life. The uniform he was wearing when he was assassinated in 1981 made me think of JFK. He'd been asked after his peace treaty with Israel's president & Carter what he'd like on his tombstone: That I lived for peace and died for my principles.
Another wing was a tutorial about how & what you could access...a massive amount of information on their website: www.bibalex.org
We spent over 5 hours absorbing just a fraction of what Bibliotheca has to offer!!!
I'd hoped for a nice seafood dinner but getting anyone to understand English here is near impossible & it was too cold to walk far...so we popped into the first warm restaurant ...KFC. Got back to our room, Rog hit the sack while I visited with a girl from England & then caught up on writing.
Next morning, we were able to get to the National Museum to see the items revived from under the sea thought to be from Cleopatra 's palace. And our final stop was at the Roman amphitheater discovered only recently when a donkey disappeared into a pit. Makes you wonder what else is where we were walking.
We caught the 2 pm train back enjoying once again the view from the train window.



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St Mark








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Qaitbay Fort








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Update 58

Alexandria, of course, was built by Alexander the Great in about 350 BC and was the home to the first major library. Alexander was tutored by Aristotle who encouraged the love of reading. Cleopatra had a summer palace here...which unforgettable was built on land now under the sea.
After we'd dropped our backpacks at our room, we headed to the Qaitbay Fort built in 1480's on top of the site where Pharos (light house) stood...one of the 7 wonders of the Ancient world. It only lasted 17 centuries !
Next we headed to the Coptic Cathedral of St. Mark. It's named after the apostle Mark who spent much time in Alexandria and it was here he was martyred...dragged through the streets behind 3 wild stallions. Kinda felt guilty taking a horse & buggy ride back to our hotel. We enjoyed our Mediterranean view until dark and then had to cover up & try to stay warm. It's cold here!!! Well, cold for Egypt.


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Update 57 by Roger

Hyena
I talked with  a young man from Sudan after class.  He told me that he wanted to improve his English speaking ability so I suggested that he tell me about his life.  If he made errors in speaking, I planned to point them out to him.
He told me that he was from a family of five sisters and two brothers and his father worked at a stockyard.  
After further description I found out that his father actually works with several brothers raising cattle in Sudan.  When the cattle are fully grown they sell some of them (about 10 per cent) at the market in Khartoum. They don't sell more because they like to  keep increasing the size of the herd.
He told me that they allow the cattle to graze where they can find water and grass. There is plenty of land and they apparently are not limited by land ownership or fences. The herders ride horses or camels and they also have a pickup truck. 
He said they have to protect the cattle from an animal that is a serious threat. He described the animal as having tall front shoulders so I asked if it was a hyena.  He had never heard that word before so we quickly googled Hyena and he agreed that was it.
As we talked he was very interested in the names that I used and I he carefully wrote them down in his notebook. Cow=mother
Bull=father
Calf=baby
I tried hard to imagine watching the cattle all night while anticipating an attack by a hungry hyena. His father must be a very brave man!
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Nile Delta farming








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Update 56

We were on the train to Alexandria for $5 each by 9am. Looking out a train window is one of my favorite things to do! I love getting a quick peek of the everyday life of people. We skirted the Nile as we sped by the consistently rich fields of wheat, rice, grasses, fruit trees & vegetables. Even the 10' between the tracks & road was cultivated. Rog read somewhere that some crops grow 27 times faster here. Sure saw lots of butts of the field workers...male and female. Some just sit right on the ground. Tallied 5 tractors but donkeys far out numbered them! Did see one new tractor dealer. Wonder how it will stay in business.
About halfway, we started to see groups of 3 or 4 cows tied sporadically in lanes usually under a lone tree. The manure behind them was proof they'd been there quite some time. We'd see maybe 4 or 5 groups of cows down a lane. Saw a few flocks of sheep penned up.
Pigeon houses...large cone shaped with large holes...are common. Easy quick meals!
Small villages seemed to have turned into large cities with those same tall mundane brick apartment buildings topped with re-rods sticking out the top. The fewer the buildings, the more color we saw. . But still hardly any one family homes. Egypt has a population of almost 100 million so I guess they gotta live somewhere!
Everywhere mosque which were the most beautiful building around by far. Sometimes you could see 3 or 4 unique minarets at a time.
But also we saw where the trash goes...on the side of the tracks. We'd read and heard that Egyptians haven't figured out how to deal with their trash...we saw lots of evidence of that!!
We often rode along side wide ditches/tributaries. Some even had small ferries so they could be crossed. We could see they were being used for drainage and irrigation...saw two ladies washing clothes...and unfortunately trash bins. Many of them have been dredge but the ugly mess of trash & muck was left on the banks.
I especially relish seeing sights like kids playing with sticks & stones, soccer games, carts loaded with veges, old men sitting on benches, carpenters building furniture, crowded markets, school kids with their arms around each other, women hanging their laundry on their balconies...just a peek into the ordinary life of the Egyptians!

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Tuesday, February 26, 2019

Update 55

Each morning we take the elevator down from our nice hotel room on the 4th floor of this All Saints Conference Center and walk out onto the courtyard. And each morning I'm humbled at the sight before me. So many refugees. Dressed in bright colorful wraps & head dressings or long black tunics, some with niqab (face veil) or western clothes with dropping scarves or men in pants & jackets. Most are holding or watching little ones. Across the courtyard is the church and more refugees sit on its steps. I think to myself, "Now there's a church that hears & lives Jesus' message."
As I walk between them, I see their faces clearly. Their color tone varies between pitch black to a light toast color. Eyes also vary from sparkling to dull. Most smile at me...and again the color varies between bright white...to brownish...to gapping holes.
The smaller children are chasing each other, playing with stones or in a small pile of sand left-over from a construction project. Rog & I gravitate to them and offer balloons. Some hesitate but a mom/dad quickly comes over and tells them it's ok (I think anyways). Then they reach out & a smile escapes. Each smile enriches my life more. If we happened to miss seeing a child, s/he may wander over ...but never begs. His bravery is rewarded with a balloon.
I often stop and admire a small baby cradled in his mother's arms. Many times they offer me to hold the baby. I admire the wonderful beauty of each and every one. As they pull on my fingers & I smile at them, their little faces flash a smile back at me. I think how much better our world would be if faces of all shades just smiled at each other. As I hold the baby close, I pray that somehow this baby will find a way out of poverty and to a good future.
It's an incredible way to start the day. Hours later when I cross the courtyard again, I am pleased to see several balloons still being played with. I'm so thankful for the opportunity to share God's love here among the refugees.
I'm attaching a prayer my wise friend Sue Ivey sent me. It captures my thoughts & prayers.

For those who see home and all it means disappear behind them;
For those who cannot see a home in the days ahead of them.

For all those who dwell in daily insecurity,
For all those who are weary and without a safe place to rest their heads.
For all families in migration, we pray.

May the image of the Holy Family who also had the experience of fleeing oppression
Stay with us at this time
And stay with us each night
As we are blessed with returning to a home.

May we also be blessed
With compassion for those
Still weary, still seeking,
Still with so far to go.

Refugee pictures






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Refugee pictures









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Update 54

We've been to the zoo where the thing that you do is....watch a multitude of domestic cats crawl in and out of the cages that held flamingoes, ducks, ostriches, etc.
Really...one made a duck his lunch! Unlike the aquarium, no animals were stuffed or pickled!
The Cairo Zoo reminded us of the US zoos about 50 years ago. Animals in small concrete floored cages. Also reminded us of why we quit going to zoos for a while. Though there was a decent number of species, usually only a few of each. We did see some hippos out of the water for the first time!!
We especially enjoyed watching many young Egyptian families having a splendid day. We didn't see any other foreigners there and since we were asked several times to be included in their photos...even had one couple sit their child between us & then take a photo...we got the idea that we were a rare breed on exhibit too!!

Sunday, February 24, 2019

Sudanese wedding






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Update 53

I just love how often we just happen to be in the right place at the right time!
Take Thursday night....we were headed out for dinner around 7...a bit later than usual. As we approached the exit gate, one of the RE staff, Mr. Boka stopped us & said, "You gotta stay! There's going to be a Sudanese wedding here anytime!" Looking around we saw a decorated canopy in front of the church and a few dressed up people lingering around. Mr. Boka went on to tell us that the wedding was suppose to start at 5...yup 5...but the bride was coming in a limo and it was stuck in traffic. So, of course, we lingered too. About 7:10, we spotted the limo trying to turn down the narrow street leading to the church. It had to go back & forth until it was lined up straight on. Slowly it crawled toward the church barely missing the parked cars. The church opened the gate...but then 4 cars needed to be moved to make room for the limo. Finally around 7:30, the limo door open and 3 bridesmaids in deep red dresses stepped out...and then the bride lavishly dressed in a sparkling, laced, enormously full skirted white wedding dress with a long train!
I was trying to be discreet & get a few pictures. Several of the local maids that we'd gotten to know had gathered and kept urging me to get closer. By now, the groom & groomsmen had entered the elegantly decorated church. The musician was singing beautifully (later learned the real singer had not shown up so the staff tech person was filling in). The maids almost pushed me into the church & Rog followed begrudgingly saying, "We shouldn't!" But I said, "Why not?? When else are we going to get a chance to see a Sudanese wedding?"
So there we sat in our sweatshirts in the back row with 3 maids in their pinstriped uniforms. One of them got the giggles & another kept slugging her & frowning...which made me laugh...which made her giggle more...pretty soon all 4 of us were trying hard to control ourselves. Rog trying to ignore us.
Though I couldn't understand the words...it appeared to be similar to our weddings with vows & rings exchanged and then hands joined ...all the while the camera man's bright light in their faces. Similar except for as each part of the ceremony ended, the guest let out a loud, high pitched shrill call...maybe a tribal call??? It was a sound that pieced the air & one that sent shivers up my spine.
We snuck out before the end but got caught by a guest who'd also snuck out...he told us we must stay for the party. We told him we'd come by after we ate dinner.
So we came back maybe an hour later... and it was over...almost cleaned up. The whole wedding reception had disappeared...kinda like a Cinderella story!
Really...this happened...you just can't make up stories like this!!

Saturday, February 23, 2019

Update 52 by Roger


Sometimes  Egyptian kids follow us saying "Money, money, money".  Even beggars have done nothing more than hold out their hand or put it to their mouth indicating hunger. Some adults have approached us saying, "Money".  Many nights we walk by an older lady sitting on a chair in the same spot holding out a small package of Kleenex.  She simply smiles and never says anything.  We have about 15 packages in our drawer.  Another man lies on a blanket propped up by a wooden crate surrounded by vases of flowers...often reading a newspaper.  He always smiles at us too.  No one has threatened us even when we don't choose to give to them. They simply leave us alone thinking about our choice. 
I have seen many Egyptians reach into their pocket & slip an Egyptian pound or two into the hands of these marginalized people.  Several times our taxi driver pulls over and rolls down his window to give money to a person sitting beside the road with hand outstretched. He has a bit more than they do and it is his choice to share what he has. I admire his quiet acknowledgment of their plight.
I am also proud of our country because I know many  Americans give from their abundance to help others in all parts of the world.  



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School for Deaf pics






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Schools for Deaf pics






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Update 51

Another day...another school!!! We'd never even visited a school for the deaf, yet today we were asked to observe and make recommendations. We questioned Francine's idea of sending us there but she was sure we'd be helpful...so off we went.
The school is one of only ten for deaf children in Egypt & houses 60 students—mostly from poor families. They have a K-10 program with class sizes between 5 and 10. Several teachers and staff were former students...two couples met there and now all 4 work there & their deaf children attend. The sense of caring and love permeated the whole campus!!
Besides teaching Arabic sign language and American Sign Language, they also teach math, carpentry, sewing, & crafts. The students were delightful and very excited to demonstrate what they could do and projects they had made. Especially enjoyed watching the maintenance many teaching two young men how to replace a door jam.
We spent over an hour with the director who is new and very determined to improve all aspects of the school but especially teaching reading. I never thought about how difficult that would be—how do you explain: the, but, what etc...when you've never heard a conversation???
Funding is a huge problem as well. There get no government money & very little money from the families. So they need to search for ways to cover the $20 per week it cost to teach and board these students. The Anglican & Coptic Church and Embrace Africa (UK NGO) are their main sources of funding right now.
The director picked our brains for suggestions: presentations to churches, organizations & NGO; Go Fund Me; Airbnb spare room; more selling venues for projects made by students; more sellable projects made by students; reach out to world wide deaf community.
We will have a follow up visit with the young lady, Youstina who is going to be responsible to raise funds. Her enthusiasm, love of the kids and youthful ambition will certainly be the key factors in raising funds!
After each of our school visits, we were asked to write a report so that has consumed much of my time lately. Kinda felt like the good ol' days writing reports!
A most interesting story we heard today was about a the deaf priest here who is translating the gospel of St Mark into sign language! He is also making a video with deaf kids acting the parts. He has just finished after working on it for ten years!! He's awaiting final editing and then it'll be available! Would love to see it!

Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Update 50

Made another visit to St. Raphael school today...the one for Sudanese refugee children we talked about in Update 35. We'd found a place in Cairo to purchase a few classroom supplies...including laser flashlights, posters, mounting tape, etc..so we came bearing gifts. The English teacher took us to observe in several math classes taught in Arabic. In a religion class, the students had some pretty deep questions for us...How do you know there really is a God??? How do you know what God wants you to do??? We could only give our personal thoughts...and made sure they knew "it wasn't the right answer" necessarily for them. The teacher encouraged the students to think deep.
Back in the principal's office, we spent time with the English speaking teacher showing him several simple teaching activities that he can pass on to all the other teachers. (Headbands, Hangman, Line Game, self correcting flashcards).
The principal had a TV set up in the hall showing a documentary about the UN refugee camp in Sudan that showed them performing their ceremonial dances and traditions. Several parents & older students had gathered there to watch. You could see the longing in their eyes. You could almost feel the homesickness in the air.
The English teacher rode back to RE with us just to make sure we got back safely. He said he hoped to make it to USA but it is extremely hard to get a Visa...might take him 10 years. We wished him luck and gave him our email address....hoping for him for a miracle!!

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Update 48

About Face! Yesterday we were in a home in Mokattam/Garbage City...today we were invited to the one of a clerk for the Canadian ambassador & her husband who is a professor at Cairo Univ (raised in Mexico City). Shocking the contrast!!
One about 10' x 10' with closet size kitchen & bath??off to the side...the other 150' x 50' with well stocked kitchen & a bathroom almost as big as the other. The contrast was startling...the only similarity was both host were warm and pleased to have us visit. We'd met Stella & Steve at church. They'd prepared a delicious, homemade meal of scrumptious chili, warm corn bread with honey butter, a salad & moist yummy carrot cake. John (Scot engineer consultant) & Margaret (English) that we'd also met at church were also there. I do love the British humor & accent. (Hello Mrs. Doubtfire!).
After dinner, we played a card game. Not trying to brag but I did win all 3 hands.
It's funny how 3 couples from all over the world get together in a country so different than all of theirs...can enjoy a fun evening & feel at home...though WE did feel a bit like we were the country bumpkins!

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Update 49

Gotta write about the roads here in Cairo. Roger thinks anyone who is ticketed for road rage ought to be sentenced to "driving in Cairo for a week." First imagine multiple dented cars in no particular lane, buses & taxis pulling over whenever someone waves (no bus stops), motorcycles with several passengers often sitting side saddle with a baby in arms or with huge warming food boxes or loaded with a variety of cargo (ladders, bread racks, chairs and my favorite, broken glass), bicycles also with passengers & cargo, constant pedestrians crossing (no crosswalks), peddlers hawking their wares weaving between moving cars, occasionally horse & buggies and cars parked most anywhere including sidewalks. Add to that scene horns blasting continuously ...especially taxis when they see us because they think we might want them to pick us up. Only one or two traffic lights.
Though the vehicles come with in inches of each other...we have not witnessed an accident...but we hardly ever see a vehicle without a scratch, missing mirror, broken taillight or dent so the evidence of accidents is prevalent!
This scene takes us back to our days in Calcutta. There and here each time you cross the road, you're playing the game of Frogger! It's best to cross with the locals.
Once you get out of Cairo & you go onto an entrance ramp (where a herd of goats are munching garbage), there's a newly constructed toll road!! It's got signs, dotted lines, guard rails and a shoulder. It has it all!! We heard they plan to extend it to Alexander in the north and Luxor in the south.
Just gotta find a better place to feed the goats!!


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Cave Church








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Garbage City








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Home in Garbage City








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Update 47

Francine (RE fundraiser) asked us to speak at church for the prison ministry so we found ourselves up front again. We both told the stories about the individuals we'd met in prison & then asked the church members to personally support with their time and/or money.
Right after church, we went to a Thai restaurant with Monica (RE education director) & Steve, her husband and their two little ones. They've been in Egypt for 6 years and as I wrote in an earlier update, they run a Sudanese community center & live in their settlement. It was nice to be "out with friends."
Then we took an Uber till we got to the Main Street in front of Mokattam....better known as Garbage City.. From there we had to take a Tuk Tuk into the bosom of the area. As you can guess, this is where the garbage collectors live & recycle the garbage of Cairo. There actually was a documentary recently made about them that claimed they recycle close to 90% of what they collect.
How do you describe the scenes?? Small rooms with piles of sorted trash being stuffed in grain bags or metal being pounded flat or welded together or cardboard bundled...kids of all ages, dogs, cats, chickens all dodging between Tuk Tuks, trucks with a mile high loads of trash & carts bringing in more loot.
When we got to the top of the rather steep hill, we were in front of the Coptic Cave Church...a local priest's mission to provide a church & also a hospital for the people who live in this "city." In an actual cave, the church seats up to 10,000 & the walls have impressive carvings of bible scenes.
On our walk down, we turned into an alley way, walked behind a trash pile & knocked on the door of Monica's friend. Inside was a small room with a bench coved with a slightly worn blanket, a bed, an old frig covered with stickers, rusty wash machine, table covered with a sheet & a pile of who knows what...and a woman delighted to visit with us & offering us sodas & treats. Her daughter & small grandson joined us. With Monica to translate, she shared pictures of her birthday party and her daughter's wedding (really how'd they pull that off???). She was as proud as any Mother of the Bride.
When it was time to leave, she invited to dinner anytime. I knew we wouldn't chance eating there which made me feel snobby.
Being able to get into the guts of places we visit happens because we get to know and be trusted by locals. It's what makes our trips deep & real.
Cherif (our Dexter friend, Jo's family) had asked us to stop in so we swung by his house on our way home. We showed him some pictures ...he looked at them and said, "He is my patient, Steve Mehaffey!" He even had his number so immediately called Steve to tell him that we were at his home.
In this city of 20 million+ where Monica and Steve live far from Cherif who's related to our Dexter friend..What are the chances???

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Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Menouf school









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Update 46

We are again asking ourselves, WHY US?? Today we were driven to Menouf about two hours north...into the Nile delta where lush green rich fields were growing a mass of food using manpower & donkeys. The only single family homes we saw between Cairo & Menouf were a few old adobe homes .Next to them were fairly newer tall buildings of reinforced pillars & framework with bricks filling in the open spaces. Most had reinforcement rods still sticking out on top...ready to add more stories. No money wasted on exterior paint. We didn't see any "live" construction but we imagine that not long ago...the old adobe homes were demolished to make room for the new tall buildings.
It was market day in Menouf and the road was nearly impossible to get down...overloaded tables, trucks, cloths spread on the ground all covered with food, clothing, household items, etc...and people!! People cleaning chickens, washing eggs, picnicking, etc...and shopping!
We were taken to a school...the only Anglican school around, 1000 students, 25 P-10th classrooms. We were asked to observe & make recommendations. Who told anyone we were qualified to do that?? Two old retired teachers??
Soon after we arrived, we were eating tameya (bean pita sandwich)& visiting with the principal, Mr. George. He explained his school was all inclusive...anyone could come...and he wanted to offer the very best education so that the school would continue to thrive & grow. They had plans to add on. Under Nasser, it was closed for many years & was reopened in 1984. Today the school still has many government controls forced to charge a set amount & take a certain number of students. More students than they have room for...
The school was neat & clean(especially compared to the rest of Menouf) and the halls & classrooms were filled with attractive & educational displays.
We visited 6 English classrooms for about 30 minutes each...enjoying the lessons, taking notes & feeling like who am I to suggest anything?? All of the teachers were good...two exceptional! Lessons were well presented & students engaged.
We were in Mr. George's office when the dismissal bell rang & many kids walked in to shake his hand & say good bye. He obviously enjoyed his students! After serving us a feast prepared by school staff, then went for a quick tour of the church & met the Indian pastors before being to taken to the room they'd arranged for us. Not the Ritz!! Mr. George said, "Doable for 1 night." Cold...and no hot water...and no towels...made us appreciate our nice room in Cairo!!
He left & we crashed. He was back 2 hours later & we walked our streets...literally because there were no sidewalks. It's a busy city with lots of new businesses & 6 million people. We stopped for dessert & then a friend of his picked us up in his horse & buggy & delivered us back to our room. You'd think we were celebrities...well except for our room that night. We brainstormed for tomorrow before wrapping up in the wool blankets and went to sleep wondering WHY US??
Day 2 in Menouf—
7:30 am Mr. George picked us up & at 8 all the students gathered in the sports field & we were introduced. Then we were asked to speak. Yikes no time to prep! Roger talked about their deep history & that the future of Egypt was on the shoulders of these young students. I followed talking about goals, importance for a good education & the necessity of being kind to all.
We observed the rest of the English classes till about 12:30. Then we sat around a table with all the English teachers...dedicated, hardworking & eager to learn teachers. I admired them! What they (and most) teachers needed was a pat on the back which we gave them ...pointing out many best practices we'd seen. We suggested that they teach each other their most successful strategies. We did have a few new ideas for them prefacing them with the fact that they know best...and they need smaller class size (average 45) and some type of projector so they didn't have to write everything on a whiteboard with their backs to the class. They readily agreed and asked that we make sure we told Mr. George (which we did).
I felt so comfortable sitting there with them...such comradely. Teachers are my kindred spirits! They were so appreciative with all our suggestions & so pleased to have us there!
As we enjoyed a huge bowl of koshari (national dish of noodles, rice, lentils w/ a tomato sauce), we summarized for Mr. George our observations...especially the teachers request. He talked about his deep desire to give these kids a great education and to have God's love shine through him...not by words but by his actions.
Our driver picked us up at 2:30 & by 4 we were "home"...exhausted & still wondering WHY US???

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Monday, February 18, 2019

Our English Class



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Update 45 by Roger

Our class continues to go well and as we get to know our students better, their personalities are being revealed bit by bit. Many are quick to smile and those who come to class regularly show us that they have courage to try to do something that is very difficult. Alfadel is tall and is often smiling or laughing. Dalya is quiet and polite but also confident of her ability to speak English and would respond to every question if given the opportunity. Zebeb seemed a bit distant at first, but now appears to be comfortable and trusts us to help her learn. She is probably close to 40 and we noticed this week that she couldn't see the board very well even when she moved to the front row. Jane spoke to the director of Refuge Egypt and they plan to get her eyes checked and get her some glasses. When Jane told her she was so excited I thought she would cry. Rose has several children, Tayeba struggles to learn and is visibly shaken when her answer is wrong.
We recently gave them a quiz and have to admit we thought they'd do better. Many did not follow directions or understand what to do. So Jane & I gave them a big pep talk telling them if they are thinking this is too hard, it is. If they are telling themselves they can do it, they will. We passed out erasers and told them to fix their mistakes because the best way to learn is by studying their mistakes. We also gave them a copy of the test & the answers so they could keep practicing.
At the end of the class and actually each class most say, "Thank you, Teacher." and shake our hands as they leave.
We want them all to succeed and hope it will get them a better job...a better life!!

Suni Cultural Show








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Update 44

Rog has been scouring the travel books & found a cultural show close by so off we went. It was in an old palace in the open air courtyard. It was packed so we were lucky to find a seat. The show started with a live band of flutes, drums, a type of violin & finger cymbals which made lively Egyptian music. Then the Suni dancers came on stage spinning wildly which made their heavy colorful skirts flare out. This went on for over 30 minutes!! Another set of spinners came out tossing their skirts in the air while still spinning...again for 30 minutes! We were dizzy watching! How those guys stopped on a dime, took a bow & walked off stage without staggering was beyond us!!

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Sunday, February 17, 2019

Serapeum






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Saqqarah






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Update 43

Made a trip to Saqqarah. 4700 years!! That's how old the pyramids there are! Yup, you read that right. These pyramids, known as the Step Pyramids are a generation older than the famous Giza Pyramids. Prior to the Step pyramids, pharaohs just had a huge slab places over their graves...than someone suggested putting another one a bit smaller on top of that one...than 3...till it created steps to the top. Blows our minds how old these are..and we could walk right up & touch them. We could also walk down into their tomb chambers & see more incredible drawings.
Also nearby was the Serapeum...an underground tunnel where about 20 "sacred" bulls were mummified & buried in polished marble 80 ton caskets. Can't imagine how or why they did that! But it was fascinating.
The museum there housed the oldest known arch, pillar & door...also hands-on displays.
My appreciation for history has certainly deepened & heightened on this trip!

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Update 42 by Roger


I joined about eight women and two men today for another visit to the prison for foreigners here in Cairo. Men's prison this time.
I first met John, a man who came from the Seychelles Islands by boat. He came to Egypt for a better life. Someone had told him to carry something for them and then threatened to kill him. He seemed confused about reasons why, but the final outcome was his imprisonment.  He has a life sentence and has been here for 16 years.  He was calm and our conversation was easy. His belief in God gives him peace.

Hisham also has a life sentence. He told me about loving to be out in the wilderness off-roading....always far from other people. He described himself as having been a young man who would often get into fights and had been in a gang. After his sentence he found himself in solitary confinement (for fighting).
A woman visited him and left a Bible for him. He had never before taken any interest in religion but remembered his mother reading some verses from Psalms. His tiny cell had no light but for a faint glow entering under the door. It was just enough so that by putting the Bible on the floor he could read some verses from Psalms. It gave him hope.  The light of the world opened up to him and changed him. He thanked me for visiting and listening to his story.
Metardo has been in the prison for 30 years.  He has studied and now is a priest/minister.  At the end of our visit he had all visitors and prisoners join hands and sing-giving thanks to God. He then thanked all of the visitors who "humbled" themselves by giving up their comforts and time with their families to visit the prisoners.

In two weeks the men will again have the chance for a visit and I expect that the same group of dedicated visitors will be there for them. 

Jane adds:  I also made another visit...kind of scary this time as the warden is such a tough cookie.  While waiting I talked with a regular visitor from the church and asked him if he thought arresting drug carriers was helping Egypt clean up the drug scene.  Nope, he said.  They don't catch the drug lords...just the peons that are easily and quickly replaced.
These prisoners made a bad decision...they are not bad people.


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Friday, February 15, 2019

Update 41

Our buddy at the gas station downloaded A Private War for us. It was the story of Marie Colton, a war zone reporter. Her story touched a chord in me. When someone asked her why she goes into such terrible places, she answered, "I come to see for myself. And so that people know." The movie vividly showed why these refugees fled from their homes in the middle of war zones. Horrid & unsafe conditions. No food. They flee for their lives & the lives of their children.
Here I see for myself these refugees. Their pain & their frustration as they wait in endless lines to get a small handout or to get an interview for a cleaning job. They search through their purses for legal papers. They sit or stand for hours holding babies who are uncommonly quiet.
Yet they smile at me and are kind to each other. I see them pick up fallen items for others and offer their chair to an older or crippled person. There's no pushing. I wonder how they manage to get up each morning, find & cook food, wash clothings & get to this center on time for an appointment??
The enormity of the situation...5 million...baffles my mind and I have to force myself to concentrate on what I can do for the moment to make things a tiny bit better for them.

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Cairo balconies






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Update 40

Cairo has what seems like an endless number of blah brown brick 5 to 20+ story buildings where the 20 million live. On the outside of these giants are so many balconies and at first I thought, how nice to have someplace to get fresh air, see the sky & feel the sun. But after being here over a month, I 've only seen people on their balconies 3 times...my favorites was a young man tenderly holding a small baby. It's funny how moments like that can glow in your memory.
Another warm time was while we were in a taxi...traffic was heavy, as usual & the driver spoke more English than most (usually less than 10 words). While we waited in a traffic jam, we asked our driver about his family. His face lit up instantly as he said several times, "I love my children!" He pulled out his phone and showed us pictures of his six kids...until he had to drive on...but at the next traffic jam...he repeated "I love my children..and I will have one more soon" and showed us more pictures.
We asked him about how much of the day he had to drive—7 am to 9 or 10 pm. And how many days—-oh, everyday...everyday.
We'd arrived at our destination, tipped him heavily & handed him balloons for his children as he drove off.
A loving dad...who worked 14+ hours every day. We wondered when he had time to give his kids all the love he had for them?!?

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Wednesday, February 13, 2019

Felucca & Sunset








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Update 39

Since we were planning to be at a school in Menof on Valentine's Day, we decided to take a day off & celebrate it early. Unfortunately, the night before, Microsoft decided to shut down our email...really, hadn't they figured out we were in Egypt??? So instead of heading out for an adventure, we headed to an Apple Store that luckily we'd spotted earlier. It wasn't an easy fix so we were told to come back later...when the tech was in. So we stopped in to visit with Jo's relatives which delighted them...especially Granny.
Back at the Apple store, more bad news. The tech had to delete my account & wait for 24 hours. (Meanwhile back home, Bekah logged into our account & reported that all the activities were ours. Fast forward: it worked!!)
Finally, about 3 pm, we climbed aboard a felucca...just the two of us & the captain. As a gentle breeze caught the sail, we glided away from the chaos & noice of Cairo. So peaceful and relaxing!
The sun slowly slipped toward the horizon and a glorious sunset painted the sky and the Nile River. How's that for a romantic scene??
Back on land, we went to a lovely Lebanese restaurant and each ordered a meal (we usually share) and then to top off the evening, we stopped for dessert in the oldest bakery in town. My pie was like eating pure fudge & Roger's like caramel walnuts.
I hadn't eaten that much in a long time...and my stomach was overwhelmed! Thank good this glutton had some Pepto Bismol!
Rog, of course, had no problem & slept like a well fed baby!

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Tuesday, February 12, 2019

Update 37

Mainer Anis is the Bishop of the Diocese of Egypt with North Africa & the Horn of Africa. Bishop Mainer honored us with a private visit. He spoke to us about his hope that all denominations of Christians (10%) & Muslim (90%) would work together to improve Egypt. Perhaps someday all religions, atheist, races & tribes in this world would accept each other and see that we are all the same. Couldn't agree more.
When he heard that we were Methodist, he told us that John Wesley was part of the Anglican Church. (Same as his.). He was proud of that.
The Bishop gave us a brief history of the Coptic Christian church (called Coptic Orthodox) in Egypt. It was founded by St. Mark, the writer of one of the books of the Bible who had come to Egypt as a refugee from Libya by walking along the Mediterranean Sea. He started the church in Alexandria in about 60 AD.
Maybe that's why this church, All Saints Church embraces the refugees today!!

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Update 36

Probably the spark that lit our fire to come to Egypt was a chance conversation with a most caring lady, Jo Penzien McDonald who attends our church. I think of these random coincidences as nudges from God.
Jo had had a terrible fall & we were there to take her a meal when in spite of her pain, she asked us about our winter plans. Having not really made any, we rattled of several possibilities. When we said Egypt, she excitedly told us that her late husband's cousin & family lived in Cairo. Jo looked up his contact info for us right then and there. So I did contact him. He replied, "Come...there's lots of volunteer work here!" So after quite a bit more internet search & prayers, I hit the jackpot...Refuge Egypt. Working with refugees just seemed to be the right thing to do this year.
So tonight we got to meet Jo's Egyptian family...who turned out to live just 2 minutes from where we are. Jo's cousin in law-they called Granny, her son Cherif & wife, Sharine and their two darling daughters who put on their fancy red dresses just for us.
We sat in their lovely living room nibbling on decadent desserts and had a lively conversation ranging from the old family homestead in Michigan to the current political scene in Egypt & USA.
Though I'm sure we could have talked for hours, we knew Cherif had to be at the hospital early (he's a pediatrician) so we said our good byes. Cherif insisted on walking us home & genuinely invited us to come back again soon!

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