We moved on toward Banjul so we could check out a few other suggested sites. We're in an Airbnb near Tujereng. It's run by a German lady who's a great cook. She seemed delighted to serve us potato salad and ham on a huge plate soon after we arrived. The many monkeys around are kept away by her dogs. It's quiet and peaceful.
Here's Roger's thoughts:
"Kachadulaa Garden 2/7/22
The German lady who owns this place used to be a cook on a ship for East Germans. She learned to cook very well because they told her they would throw her over the side if the food was bad. A joke, I hope!
She (Mariama) came here after living for some time in Sweden, but now considers Gambia her home. Her friend, Carrie, lives a short distance away and comes to help with the kitchen work and waits tables. There are often many Europeans here for evening meals as Mariama is a great cook and offers dishes that are not commonly available here. Chicken Schnitzel, Ribeye steak, potato salad, etc.
Visiting with them we found that Carrie is in Gambia because she was being pressed to be vaccinated in Sweden and chose to leave rather than comply. She seems very content with her life here.
Mariama walks with a limp and says that she came here because the weather here allows her to move without pain. She has a Gambian husband and has no plan to return to Europe.
Her Gambian husband, Lamin, once took the back way to Europe and nearly died. They told us of their concerns for the future of Gambia….
"The children just want to use the phones and take pictures and see how people elsewhere are living. That encourages them to leave Gambia by taking the back way to Europe. They have no respect for their parents and don't listen to them because their parents cannot even read or write or even use a phone. The kids think they can find all answers using their phones. No need for education. So many young people have left Gambia that there are not enough to grow food…much land is idle."
It was a depressing view that we can only hope is not accurate."
Our second day here, a driver picked us up and first we ask to stop at an ATM. First two didn't work. While pulling up to another nearby one, a police office same over & started demanding something from our driver. A heated five minute argument followed. Our driver told us to get out and try the ATM while he sorted out the problem at the nearby police station. With a bit of help from the ATM attendant, we successes in getting money. Not long after, we spotted our driver who said all was well—the police captain knew him so no problem. As he said, Gambia is a small country and it doesn't take long to find someone you know. Evidently the fact that he and Rog did not have their seatbelt on between our ATM stops, was the problem. Cracks me up as you can see people hanging out the back of vans, riding on top of truck loads, piled on donkey carts…and they stop you for no seatbelt!
So we headed to Makasutu—which the guide book called a Cultural Forest. It too—like so much of what we've seen is past it's prime—even though it only opened 30 years ago. Most of what we were suppose to see wasn't there anymore. Two steps forward. One & a half back. That seems to be the reality here. They blame it on Covid but by the looks of things…Covid only added a bit to the backward direction. We took a boat ride through the mangroves & saw a few birds. Watched a man climb to the top of a palm tree to tap it for juice. A buffet lunch of African food was served…mostly cold but Rog liked it. While we ate, musicians played & one danced. Always tips are expected: boat paddles, climber, musicians, guide & driver. Adds up but it's the way workers here get their pay. We're told only gov't jobs have wages. Only the baboons who surrounded us while we ate didn't ask for tips!
Wednesday, February 8, 2023
Gambia #10
Paradise Beach…very appropriately named. Next to turquoise waves and a flat solid beach surface easy to walk on. Sand is fine, barely tan & mixed with tiny diamonds that sparkle. In the distance you have a view of Sanyang fishing village. Only a few other have found this gorgeous place. Breakfast is anytime; coffee, eggs & bread. We order a meal around 2 which is delicious fresh fish. We read and listen to pod cast while lying on the beach under palm trees. Occasionally, local girls will come to sell fruit which we enjoy later with our pb sandwiches. The girls often plop down besides us and chat…giving them a rest & shade and us a chance to hear about their lives and dreams. They play with my hair…so opposite of theirs. Young men on the beach play soccer, exercise and run. When I asked why they exercise, they tell me they want to build strong bodies which will helps their brains, give them longer lives and maybe a chance to win $$ at soccer. I listen to their many hopes and dreams…and worry for them. On the weekend, several large groups lugged grills, food, drinks, radios, speakers, drums and babies to the beach ready to party! No one swims but many play in the waves and take selfies. Their drumming and music sills the air until late. Surprisingly there seems to be no ocean spray & few mosquitoes. Five days here was a bit of Paradise!
Gambia #9
From Roger's pen:
We have been thinking about the economy here. Many people survive by selling vegetables or small items to their neighbors. They would love having the opportunity to get a good job. Improving the Gambian economy might be disastrous for the people and their culture.
If the country were to be modernized, it would mean better transportation, health care, education, more employment, industry, infrastructure, etc.
It would also bring addtional pollution and other problems that come with modernization. Likely their culture would suffer, tribal values may lose importance, and languages would change or disappear.
As the question of modernization looms, many Gambians have seen the possibility of a better life. They have decided to take "the back way to Europe" in search of opportunity, because they don't find it here.
They sail North along the coast in a desperate attempt for a better life, but often the boat does not reach its destination and is lost.
If they miraculously do reach Europe, the problems of proper identification, visa, etc. may still derail their plans.
Nearly everyone here knows several who have taken "the back way"…never to be heard from again.
We have been thinking about the economy here. Many people survive by selling vegetables or small items to their neighbors. They would love having the opportunity to get a good job. Improving the Gambian economy might be disastrous for the people and their culture.
If the country were to be modernized, it would mean better transportation, health care, education, more employment, industry, infrastructure, etc.
It would also bring addtional pollution and other problems that come with modernization. Likely their culture would suffer, tribal values may lose importance, and languages would change or disappear.
As the question of modernization looms, many Gambians have seen the possibility of a better life. They have decided to take "the back way to Europe" in search of opportunity, because they don't find it here.
They sail North along the coast in a desperate attempt for a better life, but often the boat does not reach its destination and is lost.
If they miraculously do reach Europe, the problems of proper identification, visa, etc. may still derail their plans.
Nearly everyone here knows several who have taken "the back way"…never to be heard from again.
Saturday, February 4, 2023
Gambia #8
Up early and headed toward Georgetown. Buba and Miriana are quite a pair teasing each other and laughing all the time. Buba said, "If you're looking for trouble, you will have it with a Gambian woman." Miriana says Buba is a naughty boy…but a good dancer. They told us some of their tribe traditions. Buba is Fula. His 5 yr old son recently got circumcised and there was a huge celebration.. He then took him to a month-long school with 10 other newly circumcised boys. They will lay quietly with loose clothing for days listening to rules about proper behavior…especially respecting others. They won't bath while there. He says his son cries a lot but he calls him every day and looks forward to him coming home with good manners. Miriana tells us how important family is to her Mandinka tribe (& other tribes). They live together in compounds with wives joining their husband's. It's illegal to marry before 18. A man can marry up to 4 wives & he is careful not to favor one. He stays with a different one each week and that week she cooks lunch for the entire compound. Works for them!
About 11, we pulled off the main road & into a Fula family compound with. Mud houses/thatched roof, well, outdoor fire cooking area and no electricity. A pile of kids rushed out to meet us and soon surrounded us. We were escorted into a home which was filled with beds made of ceiba seed fiber. There was a woman pounding couscous to loosen the husk and be made into porridge for breakfast, a man who'd purchased a large bag of sugar & was making small bags for resale. Buying one day supply of most everything is all most can afford. Another made with a baby on her lap was shelling peanuts. She gave us a big bag & we slipped her some $$. Being Fula, she had decorative marks burned on her face & lots of earrings. Miriana brought out a bag of suckers & cookies and was mobbed as she passed them out. When that excitement died down, I blew up a ballon and tossed it up. The wind carried it & the kids chased it hitting it back up when it came down. Hearing that they would get no education made me a bit sad but how would it change their culture if they did? Is it right to think that would be best for them? Miriana says education is better than gold or silver.
Our next stop was Wassu round stone circles. Basically a grave for past chiefs. We drove on passing many broken down vehicles on the side of the road, meeting big trucks from Senegal and over loaded taxi vans. Amazing how high they stacked the loads on top. One even had two goats on it! When we arrived at River Gambia Nat'l Park, we braved the rickety dock to climb into a boat and head to Bamboo Island where chimpanzees are being relocated. We saw a few of those big boys up in the trees. We made a quick turn-around when we spotted 6 hippos. Bigger boys! We gave them plenty of space to put on a show for us. Buba teased Miriana saying we say 7. She got him back later saying he had chicken muscles. We continued east turning off just before Georgetown. The road was barely a driveway with massive holes & overgrown brush. Where were we going?? Monkeys greeted us as mud huts came into view. Our hotel. Even more scarce. No electricity. No water. We watched the monkey's antics for a bit and visited with a couple from Holland. They had spent the day visiting the family the man had lived with 30 years ago through Peace Corp. He was a U of M grad! They started cooking supper but since I'd been fighting a cold, I just ate a piece of bread with my peanut butter & crashed. For breakfast, they had fresh donut holes which were delicious & omelets. We fed the monkeys some peanuts & slowly made our way back to the main road. The ferry to Georgetown was close by so that's where we went. Georgetown is an island city. So many others with bags of stuff bought or ready to sell at the market. Horses, donkeys, goats & sheep mingled with women dressed so colorfully & elegantly many with babies tied around their waist. When the ferry arrived, Buba drove on & then all the passengers loaded. A short ride & we were there…right next to the building where slaves were held & sold. A guide led us down into a dungeon & told the story. Here they were for 14 days, chained if aggressive, a hole dug to low tide sea level used as water source. During high tide the water & all their waste was up to their chest. Food was shoveled down holes at the top. More than half died & were fed to the crocodiles. Those who survived were weighed & that determined price. Women's tits were squeezed for firmness. Teeth were examined. The purchased slaves were loaded on boats where another half would die. Slaves from Africa were more valuable because of their strength. Slaves from India were much weaker. Of course we knew this story….but sitting in the dungeon with the great grandson of someone who'd probably been there was a chilling experience. Letter we would talk to Buba & Miriana about it. They said what is past is past. Africans were to blame as well. They captured people from other tribes to sell for tea, metal, jewelry and mirrors. Mirrors to admire themselves in. How sad. They said in a way, there are still slaves today as nephews are often made to work for uncles without pay.
A little ways down the road, we came to the first Methodist church in sub- Sahara Africa planted in 1824. Nothing impressive. Actually the sign was rusty, bent over and barely readable. But it gave me a warm feeling the Methodist love reached this island where such deployable acts took place. It also made me sad the my own Methodist church has chosen to split from that founding church. A school was built in 1927 for the sons of chiefs and later others. The boss of our tour is currently building a huge hotel/conference center here in Georgetown so we stopped to see it. Such a huge dream1. Big restaurants on the roof top, elegant stairway & a pool. He plans to encourage boat trips from Banjul to here on mini cruise ships. You look around at all the crumbling, undeveloped surroundings and wonder, how is this dream going to be a reality???
We had a long ways to go so we made few stops but talked lots…about even politics and religion as freely as anything else. Gambia just ousted a president who'd ruled for over so yrs who was actually doing lots of good things like paved road, bridges, more women rights, better litter control (which they desperately need)—but at the expense of freedom. Many people just disappeared. No one felt they could disagree with anything. Senegal armed forces were invited to protect the president's home region where green flags flew everywhere in his support. He made it known he wanted to be named king & have his family continue reigning. He didn't accept the election results & was forced to flee the country. The new president is not getting as much done but the people are much happier. Gambia is mostly a Muslim country & every town has a mosque & you can her them calling people to pray 5 times a day. Many kids go to Muslim schools where they mostly just learn the Koran. Muslims don't drink alcohol so that eliminates lots of problems. Miriana's take on Christians vs Muslims: One God. Same. Same.
The country that surrounds them, Senegal is called a sister country and they have the same 7 or so tribes. Borders between them is open as most have family on both sides. Senegal is more developed.
We were getting close to where we'd booked an Airbnb so Miriana tried the contact number we were given. After several calls & a bit of arguing, she finally got it the right person with the right directions. Again we took what was barely a driveway quite a distance in search of our Airbnb. Actually found it…on a gorgeous beach. The caretaker hadn't got the message we were coming until a bit before we arrived and had no room vacant. He quickly re-did their store room that was almost finished.A bed, couch, table & chairs soon appeared and walla—a room for us for the next 5 days. toilet, Wi-Fi, water are usually working so we're happy. We were served almost cold cokes & since we had some left over bread, we ate pb sandwich & welcomed a most softer bed!!
About 11, we pulled off the main road & into a Fula family compound with. Mud houses/thatched roof, well, outdoor fire cooking area and no electricity. A pile of kids rushed out to meet us and soon surrounded us. We were escorted into a home which was filled with beds made of ceiba seed fiber. There was a woman pounding couscous to loosen the husk and be made into porridge for breakfast, a man who'd purchased a large bag of sugar & was making small bags for resale. Buying one day supply of most everything is all most can afford. Another made with a baby on her lap was shelling peanuts. She gave us a big bag & we slipped her some $$. Being Fula, she had decorative marks burned on her face & lots of earrings. Miriana brought out a bag of suckers & cookies and was mobbed as she passed them out. When that excitement died down, I blew up a ballon and tossed it up. The wind carried it & the kids chased it hitting it back up when it came down. Hearing that they would get no education made me a bit sad but how would it change their culture if they did? Is it right to think that would be best for them? Miriana says education is better than gold or silver.
Our next stop was Wassu round stone circles. Basically a grave for past chiefs. We drove on passing many broken down vehicles on the side of the road, meeting big trucks from Senegal and over loaded taxi vans. Amazing how high they stacked the loads on top. One even had two goats on it! When we arrived at River Gambia Nat'l Park, we braved the rickety dock to climb into a boat and head to Bamboo Island where chimpanzees are being relocated. We saw a few of those big boys up in the trees. We made a quick turn-around when we spotted 6 hippos. Bigger boys! We gave them plenty of space to put on a show for us. Buba teased Miriana saying we say 7. She got him back later saying he had chicken muscles. We continued east turning off just before Georgetown. The road was barely a driveway with massive holes & overgrown brush. Where were we going?? Monkeys greeted us as mud huts came into view. Our hotel. Even more scarce. No electricity. No water. We watched the monkey's antics for a bit and visited with a couple from Holland. They had spent the day visiting the family the man had lived with 30 years ago through Peace Corp. He was a U of M grad! They started cooking supper but since I'd been fighting a cold, I just ate a piece of bread with my peanut butter & crashed. For breakfast, they had fresh donut holes which were delicious & omelets. We fed the monkeys some peanuts & slowly made our way back to the main road. The ferry to Georgetown was close by so that's where we went. Georgetown is an island city. So many others with bags of stuff bought or ready to sell at the market. Horses, donkeys, goats & sheep mingled with women dressed so colorfully & elegantly many with babies tied around their waist. When the ferry arrived, Buba drove on & then all the passengers loaded. A short ride & we were there…right next to the building where slaves were held & sold. A guide led us down into a dungeon & told the story. Here they were for 14 days, chained if aggressive, a hole dug to low tide sea level used as water source. During high tide the water & all their waste was up to their chest. Food was shoveled down holes at the top. More than half died & were fed to the crocodiles. Those who survived were weighed & that determined price. Women's tits were squeezed for firmness. Teeth were examined. The purchased slaves were loaded on boats where another half would die. Slaves from Africa were more valuable because of their strength. Slaves from India were much weaker. Of course we knew this story….but sitting in the dungeon with the great grandson of someone who'd probably been there was a chilling experience. Letter we would talk to Buba & Miriana about it. They said what is past is past. Africans were to blame as well. They captured people from other tribes to sell for tea, metal, jewelry and mirrors. Mirrors to admire themselves in. How sad. They said in a way, there are still slaves today as nephews are often made to work for uncles without pay.
A little ways down the road, we came to the first Methodist church in sub- Sahara Africa planted in 1824. Nothing impressive. Actually the sign was rusty, bent over and barely readable. But it gave me a warm feeling the Methodist love reached this island where such deployable acts took place. It also made me sad the my own Methodist church has chosen to split from that founding church. A school was built in 1927 for the sons of chiefs and later others. The boss of our tour is currently building a huge hotel/conference center here in Georgetown so we stopped to see it. Such a huge dream1. Big restaurants on the roof top, elegant stairway & a pool. He plans to encourage boat trips from Banjul to here on mini cruise ships. You look around at all the crumbling, undeveloped surroundings and wonder, how is this dream going to be a reality???
We had a long ways to go so we made few stops but talked lots…about even politics and religion as freely as anything else. Gambia just ousted a president who'd ruled for over so yrs who was actually doing lots of good things like paved road, bridges, more women rights, better litter control (which they desperately need)—but at the expense of freedom. Many people just disappeared. No one felt they could disagree with anything. Senegal armed forces were invited to protect the president's home region where green flags flew everywhere in his support. He made it known he wanted to be named king & have his family continue reigning. He didn't accept the election results & was forced to flee the country. The new president is not getting as much done but the people are much happier. Gambia is mostly a Muslim country & every town has a mosque & you can her them calling people to pray 5 times a day. Many kids go to Muslim schools where they mostly just learn the Koran. Muslims don't drink alcohol so that eliminates lots of problems. Miriana's take on Christians vs Muslims: One God. Same. Same.
The country that surrounds them, Senegal is called a sister country and they have the same 7 or so tribes. Borders between them is open as most have family on both sides. Senegal is more developed.
We were getting close to where we'd booked an Airbnb so Miriana tried the contact number we were given. After several calls & a bit of arguing, she finally got it the right person with the right directions. Again we took what was barely a driveway quite a distance in search of our Airbnb. Actually found it…on a gorgeous beach. The caretaker hadn't got the message we were coming until a bit before we arrived and had no room vacant. He quickly re-did their store room that was almost finished.A bed, couch, table & chairs soon appeared and walla—a room for us for the next 5 days. toilet, Wi-Fi, water are usually working so we're happy. We were served almost cold cokes & since we had some left over bread, we ate pb sandwich & welcomed a most softer bed!!
Thursday, February 2, 2023
Gambia #7
Our truly cultural adventure began on Monday at 7 am. Buba, our driver picked us up and soon we picked up Miriana who was our guide. She was chocked full of information which she freely & rapidly shared with us as we drove along the main E-W road which was only paved 8 yrs ago. It was very smooth sailing except for slowing down for speed bumps, Irish crossings (valley built in road), town barricades (tires & anything resembling a gate), police stops, military stops with weapons showing, donkey carts and cattle, goats & people crossing the road. We drove through many congested market areas later stopping at Farafenni Market just to immerse ourselves into that experience. We passed lots of mango, orange & baobab trees and though they had huge bundles of sticks and piles of bags stuffed with charcoal made from wood, Mariana was quick to note that Gambia know the value of trees and there were many rules about cutting them. Most irons have an opening to put hot charcoal in. The rice and peanut fields are dormant now and used for grazing cattle and goats. In the rainy season they will flourish. Peanuts & fish are the main export crops. We arrived at Tendaba camp around 11, settled into our pretty sparse rooms & ate some breakfast left in the buffet. Then we climbed into the back of a 3 wheeler with a box behind for seats. A guide from Tendaba joined us and we got jostled about for almost an hour before arriving to a water hole in Kiang West Nat'l Park. We soon heard bamboos parking & then saw a large family in the distance. We headed to another water hole where we saw a herd of bush hogs. As we walked around, we scared up an antelope. Another bumpy ride back and I could hardly walk to my bed. Not sure I'd recommend that safari to anyone. Lunch was fried chicken/ff for me & yassa for Rog. Around 5, the Tendaba tide met us and we climbed way down a precariously old ladder into a boat & crossed the wide Gambia River. When we came to an opening in the mangroves, we turned into what was bird paradise! Thousands of them! Kingfishers, cormorants, spoonbill, storks, purple & great white heron, egrets, ibis, terns and so many I can't name but admired their brilliant colors. The funniest was the snake fish that dis look just like snake when it was swimming! On the shoreline, we saw crabs, a crocodile & a mongoose! I didn't want it to end but we headed back just as the sun set. Perfect. A dinner buffet was set up as there's a health conference being held here at the lodge with about 50 people. We slept on a hard bed under a mosquito net. The real Gambia experience.
Sunday, January 29, 2023
Gambia #6
On Friday, Rog biked to the bike shop to pay for the parts he'd put on the Gunjur Project bikes and then headed out to explore. Here's his writing:
" As I was a riding through the local neighborhood, I came across several boys walking toward me. The boys are sent out to the bush to cut firewood so they carry sharp machetes. I stopped and one of the boys (in the red gillie suit) came right up to me slapping the blades together many times making very sharp and threatening sounds. 🙈I laughed and asked him if it would be OK if I snapped his photo. I was a bit relieved when he agreed. 😀 I have now learned that when a Mandinka child is circumcised they send out someone to chase away evil spirits. He is called a kankaran.
As I continued through the neighborhood, I came upon a lush garden filled with onions, tomatoes, peppers, and more. The kids were very happy to pose for a photo."
I went off to school. The head master ask me to write in the visitor's book which asked for name, country, comments and suggestions. At the end of morning assembly, he awarded me with certificate and read aloud what I had written. I got what they always do-"a big clap, and another and then a bigger one." I spent time in each classroom soaking up their smiles and watching them excitingly explore books! As the kids left, I gave them each a candy & said goodbye. I then talked individually to each teacher leaving them with a suggestions and asked them to share with the others and then gave them a handful of candy. It would be wonderful to see if they use the suggestions but I suspect, rote learning will remain the main teaching method. Several kids joined me on my walk back to Gunjur Project. One 10-12 year old asked me to teach him. So we sat down on a shaded ridge & I typed words on my phone for him to read and then put them into a sentence. We also did a few math problems. He was a smart boy eager to learn! By then, several kids had gathered so I played "Doggie, Doggie where's your shoe?" (Using his shoe—why not?). They loved it. I also showed them how to play thumb war. Both of these games I had taught kids/teachers at school. I love teaching these simple games in hopes it'll bring them some fun. Back at GP, the pool was calling. Then I finished up organizing & straightening the GP library. We said goodbye to Mark & Carol and now it's just us. The staff is working hard preparing for a big group coming in a few days. Sat & Sun were down days. We researched plans for the next two weeks and met with Jenny who set up a 3 day trip to the interior of Gambia with a driver she approved of. We did a bunch of calculating to figure out how many dalasi we needed to pay our bill here plus $50 tip, the next 3 day trip, set up a bike fund of $75 for Mary Jo gave me $$ before we left and then have some dalasi to buy food/taxi rides etc when we get to our airbnb after our trip. Total was 77,000 dalasi ! We paid Jenny via PayPal and she then handed us 4 huge wads of dalasi. Felt like we'd robbed a bank!! Rog replaced a tube on a GP bike giving the old tube to Brendan saying he knew he'd find a use for it!
We then did some repacking so we could be down to just 2 suitcases having given away books, teacher supplies, bike pump & patches. Both days were hot so we took several dips in the pool. Rog went out for more bike rides while I caught up on my writing. Which I now am! Tonight we will order sweet & sour chicken again because it's the best we've ever tasted and of course, they'll serve us some delicious cake with ice cream! We have loved this place and all it does for this community and to the volunteers they encourage to come. We found a gem in Gambia!
" As I was a riding through the local neighborhood, I came across several boys walking toward me. The boys are sent out to the bush to cut firewood so they carry sharp machetes. I stopped and one of the boys (in the red gillie suit) came right up to me slapping the blades together many times making very sharp and threatening sounds. 🙈I laughed and asked him if it would be OK if I snapped his photo. I was a bit relieved when he agreed. 😀 I have now learned that when a Mandinka child is circumcised they send out someone to chase away evil spirits. He is called a kankaran.
As I continued through the neighborhood, I came upon a lush garden filled with onions, tomatoes, peppers, and more. The kids were very happy to pose for a photo."
I went off to school. The head master ask me to write in the visitor's book which asked for name, country, comments and suggestions. At the end of morning assembly, he awarded me with certificate and read aloud what I had written. I got what they always do-"a big clap, and another and then a bigger one." I spent time in each classroom soaking up their smiles and watching them excitingly explore books! As the kids left, I gave them each a candy & said goodbye. I then talked individually to each teacher leaving them with a suggestions and asked them to share with the others and then gave them a handful of candy. It would be wonderful to see if they use the suggestions but I suspect, rote learning will remain the main teaching method. Several kids joined me on my walk back to Gunjur Project. One 10-12 year old asked me to teach him. So we sat down on a shaded ridge & I typed words on my phone for him to read and then put them into a sentence. We also did a few math problems. He was a smart boy eager to learn! By then, several kids had gathered so I played "Doggie, Doggie where's your shoe?" (Using his shoe—why not?). They loved it. I also showed them how to play thumb war. Both of these games I had taught kids/teachers at school. I love teaching these simple games in hopes it'll bring them some fun. Back at GP, the pool was calling. Then I finished up organizing & straightening the GP library. We said goodbye to Mark & Carol and now it's just us. The staff is working hard preparing for a big group coming in a few days. Sat & Sun were down days. We researched plans for the next two weeks and met with Jenny who set up a 3 day trip to the interior of Gambia with a driver she approved of. We did a bunch of calculating to figure out how many dalasi we needed to pay our bill here plus $50 tip, the next 3 day trip, set up a bike fund of $75 for Mary Jo gave me $$ before we left and then have some dalasi to buy food/taxi rides etc when we get to our airbnb after our trip. Total was 77,000 dalasi ! We paid Jenny via PayPal and she then handed us 4 huge wads of dalasi. Felt like we'd robbed a bank!! Rog replaced a tube on a GP bike giving the old tube to Brendan saying he knew he'd find a use for it!
We then did some repacking so we could be down to just 2 suitcases having given away books, teacher supplies, bike pump & patches. Both days were hot so we took several dips in the pool. Rog went out for more bike rides while I caught up on my writing. Which I now am! Tonight we will order sweet & sour chicken again because it's the best we've ever tasted and of course, they'll serve us some delicious cake with ice cream! We have loved this place and all it does for this community and to the volunteers they encourage to come. We found a gem in Gambia!
Thursday, January 26, 2023
Re: Gambia #5
Love it! What a gift you have given them. The gift to read. Glad you had such a great day
On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 1:41 PM Jane Boyce <janeboyce@live.com> wrote:
My birthday! Rog headed to the bike shop & I went to school where I spent the day in Level 1. At break, the head master asked if I had any suggestions. After praising him for much of what they are doing, I noted there was a lot of down time especially while the teacher is taking attendance & collecting lunch money. I also had noticed that the kids did not ever have the opportunity to look at books so why not then! I told him he'd have to firmly set ground rules & tell the kids books were a gift that should get the utmost care. I suggested the books to be sitting on their desk when they came in. He said he thought that was brilliant and he loved having visitors improve his school. I left hoping for the best. At dinner, the staff presented me with a birthday cake with two speakers. Delicious chocolate cake & ice cream was served to us and all the staff! Then a band came & played for us. It was only Carol & Mark and us but they put on a great show playing the kora, two sets of drums and had a singer. Two locals came over and started dancing & encouraged us to join them. We tried to mimic their moves. Rog said he felt like Steve Martin in the Jerk! The last song was a happy birthday to me. I spent the next hour responding to birthday messages and went to bed feeling very blessed.
Up and out the next morning Rog took another Gunjur Project bike to work on. He was walking it cause the gears were messed up. A young man stopped & helped him and then ask for payment. Fortunately he had his left over breakfast of French toast & a pb&j sandwich which the young man gladly took. As it turned out, the wife of one of the mechanics brought everyone lunch so Rog joined them happily. His words: They gave me part of a baguette and we all gathered around the dish which was put on the cement floor of the bike shop porch( our work area). Using just the bread everyone soaked up the spicy liquid and pulled out parts of the fish for their lunch. I shared a small amount. Pretty 🌶!
And me…I got the best ever belated birthday gift!! When I got to school, there were books on each kids desk! At the end of the morning assembly, the head master asked me to talk to the kids about the books. I told the kids that there was a gift on their desk & then explained the rules which the head master translated with much enthusiasm & emphasized the care needed. Then every kids went to their desk and quietly enjoyed books!! I went from room to room showing proper orientation, pointing out things in pictures and smiling from ear to ear. I later talked to the teacher who liked it also. One asked me to read to a small group and another to the class. I cleaned up each classroom library taking the books in poor shape to the office. Who knows how long these books had just sat there. So finally, books were a part of their days!!
Wednesday we were suppose to go on an outing but the Land Rover wouldn't start so Rog went off to the bike shop. I offered to help sort & straighten the Gunjur Project library. They have lots of books and it needed some TLC. We ate dinner with Carol & Mark again…which we have the last several nights as we are the only guest right now. They are travelers too so we have a lot to talk about. All of us are especially enjoying the sweet & sour chicken meal so it seems we order that most often. We all have devoured their desserts. Tonight it was coconut cake & ice cream. Sweet way to end the day!
Gambia #5
My birthday! Rog headed to the bike shop & I went to school where I spent the day in Level 1. At break, the head master asked if I had any suggestions. After praising him for much of what they are doing, I noted there was a lot of down time especially while the teacher is taking attendance & collecting lunch money. I also had noticed that the kids did not ever have the opportunity to look at books so why not then! I told him he'd have to firmly set ground rules & tell the kids books were a gift that should get the utmost care. I suggested the books to be sitting on their desk when they came in. He said he thought that was brilliant and he loved having visitors improve his school. I left hoping for the best. At dinner, the staff presented me with a birthday cake with two speakers. Delicious chocolate cake & ice cream was served to us and all the staff! Then a band came & played for us. It was only Carol & Mark and us but they put on a great show playing the kora, two sets of drums and had a singer. Two locals came over and started dancing & encouraged us to join them. We tried to mimic their moves. Rog said he felt like Steve Martin in the Jerk! The last song was a happy birthday to me. I spent the next hour responding to birthday messages and went to bed feeling very blessed.
Up and out the next morning Rog took another Gunjur Project bike to work on. He was walking it cause the gears were messed up. A young man stopped & helped him and then ask for payment. Fortunately he had his left over breakfast of French toast & a pb&j sandwich which the young man gladly took. As it turned out, the wife of one of the mechanics brought everyone lunch so Rog joined them happily. His words: They gave me part of a baguette and we all gathered around the dish which was put on the cement floor of the bike shop porch( our work area). Using just the bread everyone soaked up the spicy liquid and pulled out parts of the fish for their lunch. I shared a small amount. Pretty 🌶!
And me…I got the best ever belated birthday gift!! When I got to school, there were books on each kids desk! At the end of the morning assembly, the head master asked me to talk to the kids about the books. I told the kids that there was a gift on their desk & then explained the rules which the head master translated with much enthusiasm & emphasized the care needed. Then every kids went to their desk and quietly enjoyed books!! I went from room to room showing proper orientation, pointing out things in pictures and smiling from ear to ear. I later talked to the teacher who liked it also. One asked me to read to a small group and another to the class. I cleaned up each classroom library taking the books in poor shape to the office. Who knows how long these books had just sat there. So finally, books were a part of their days!!
Wednesday we were suppose to go on an outing but the Land Rover wouldn't start so Rog went off to the bike shop. I offered to help sort & straighten the Gunjur Project library. They have lots of books and it needed some TLC. We ate dinner with Carol & Mark again…which we have the last several nights as we are the only guest right now. They are travelers too so we have a lot to talk about. All of us are especially enjoying the sweet & sour chicken meal so it seems we order that most often. We all have devoured their desserts. Tonight it was coconut cake & ice cream. Sweet way to end the day!
My birthday! Rog headed to the bike shop & I went to school where I spent the day in Level 1. At break, the head master asked if I had any suggestions. After praising him for much of what they are doing, I noted there was a lot of down time especially while the teacher is taking attendance & collecting lunch money. I also had noticed that the kids did not ever have the opportunity to look at books so why not then! I told him he'd have to firmly set ground rules & tell the kids books were a gift that should get the utmost care. I suggested the books to be sitting on their desk when they came in. He said he thought that was brilliant and he loved having visitors improve his school. I left hoping for the best. At dinner, the staff presented me with a birthday cake with two speakers. Delicious chocolate cake & ice cream was served to us and all the staff! Then a band came & played for us. It was only Carol & Mark and us but they put on a great show playing the kora, two sets of drums and had a singer. Two locals came over and started dancing & encouraged us to join them. We tried to mimic their moves. Rog said he felt like Steve Martin in the Jerk! The last song was a happy birthday to me. I spent the next hour responding to birthday messages and went to bed feeling very blessed.
Up and out the next morning Rog took another Gunjur Project bike to work on. He was walking it cause the gears were messed up. A young man stopped & helped him and then ask for payment. Fortunately he had his left over breakfast of French toast & a pb&j sandwich which the young man gladly took. As it turned out, the wife of one of the mechanics brought everyone lunch so Rog joined them happily. His words: They gave me part of a baguette and we all gathered around the dish which was put on the cement floor of the bike shop porch( our work area). Using just the bread everyone soaked up the spicy liquid and pulled out parts of the fish for their lunch. I shared a small amount. Pretty 🌶!
And me…I got the best ever belated birthday gift!! When I got to school, there were books on each kids desk! At the end of the morning assembly, the head master asked me to talk to the kids about the books. I told the kids that there was a gift on their desk & then explained the rules which the head master translated with much enthusiasm & emphasized the care needed. Then every kids went to their desk and quietly enjoyed books!! I went from room to room showing proper orientation, pointing out things in pictures and smiling from ear to ear. I later talked to the teacher who liked it also. One asked me to read to a small group and another to the class. I cleaned up each classroom library taking the books in poor shape to the office. Who knows how long these books had just sat there. So finally, books were a part of their days!!
Wednesday we were suppose to go on an outing but the Land Rover wouldn't start so Rog went off to the bike shop. I offered to help sort & straighten the Gunjur Project library. They have lots of books and it needed some TLC. We ate dinner with Carol & Mark again…which we have the last several nights as we are the only guest right now. They are travelers too so we have a lot to talk about. All of us are especially enjoying the sweet & sour chicken meal so it seems we order that most often. We all have devoured their desserts. Tonight it was coconut cake & ice cream. Sweet way to end the day!
Tuesday, January 24, 2023
Gambia #4
It's the weekend! We climbed into the back of the Land Rover and headed out to visit Ibrahim at his home. He was happy to introduce us to his family, take a family photo, give us some fresh oranges and show us his bike shop he has at his home. Mostly a tool box & a pile of old bikes. Then we went to Kartong—a small busy village on the banks of a tributary to The Gambia River. It was nice to see where most people live, work & shop around here. We took a short boat ride passing Pelican Island (only 5 there) and checked out the oysters growing on the mangrove roots. We watched women digging for cackles which reminded Rog of a song he sang in grade school: "Singing Cackles & mussels, Alive, Alive Oh". He'd always wondered what cackles were. Roads here are mostly sand with major pot holes so when you reach a paved one…it's wonderful. We traveled in the back of the Land Rover with Omar telling us about what we're passing & shouting to most people we pass with both laughing every time. He says he doesn't need to know them to joke with them. We know two words in Mandinka: twobob (means white person derived from two bits-UK $) and minty (candy). We hear both often! Spent the rest of the relaxing and getting acquainted with Mark & Carol from Scotland. They'd spend they day doing workshops for local groups: Mark does photography & Carol taught how to make a hand bag with a pattern on a sewing machine to a group of young girls. Also Gunjur Project hired a soccer team to make cement blocks. They mixed up the cement by hand, poured it into a mold, then quickly pulled the mold off. All amazingly fast! They made 994 blocks in a few hours earning about $85 dollars which they'll use for soccer equipment. It seems Gunjur Project is helping out everywhere in this community!
Sunday we met up with Brandon (one of the owners) and a group of local kids he's gotten interested in birding. We walked with them to a local forest. We spotted lots of birds, plants with medicinal use, and a crocodile. We had a quick lunch then headed to Lamin Lodge….slowly. After jostling about for about an hour, we arrived. It is considered as one of the top sites to see. We were a bit unimpressed is an understatement. The boat ride was way more than we imagined…about $35 each. We got into a small boat along with Carol & Mark & Adama. We paddled about 20 minuted and then stepped out into the mucky ground. It was low tie. We slowly made our way until we came to a steam through the mangrove. We walked slowly, slipping often spotting mud skippers (frog head, fish body), oysters and crabs. We finally arrived at the main attraction: a huge Baobab tree which we crawled inside of. Of course we had to tip them too. Monday morning, Jenny (owner) had heard how much we paid and had Omar call them and renegotiate the price. It was the first time Adama had been there and they had way over charged us. Jenny gave us back half the money we'd spent saying she'd make sure that didn't happen again! We learned an important lesson that may help us when we're out and about on our own.
It's the weekend! We climbed into the back of the Land Rover and headed out to visit Ibrahim at his home. He was happy to introduce us to his family, take a family photo, give us some fresh oranges and show us his bike shop he has at his home. Mostly a tool box & a pile of old bikes. Then we went to Kartong—a small busy village on the banks of a tributary to The Gambia River. It was nice to see where most people live, work & shop around here. We took a short boat ride passing Pelican Island (only 5 there) and checked out the oysters growing on the mangrove roots. We watched women digging for cackles which reminded Rog of a song he sang in grade school: "Singing Cackles & mussels, Alive, Alive Oh". He'd always wondered what cackles were. Roads here are mostly sand with major pot holes so when you reach a paved one…it's wonderful. We traveled in the back of the Land Rover with Omar telling us about what we're passing & shouting to most people we pass with both laughing every time. He says he doesn't need to know them to joke with them. We know two words in Mandinka: twobob (means white person derived from two bits-UK $) and minty (candy). We hear both often! Spent the rest of the relaxing and getting acquainted with Mark & Carol from Scotland. They'd spend they day doing workshops for local groups: Mark does photography & Carol taught how to make a hand bag with a pattern on a sewing machine to a group of young girls. Also Gunjur Project hired a soccer team to make cement blocks. They mixed up the cement by hand, poured it into a mold, then quickly pulled the mold off. All amazingly fast! They made 994 blocks in a few hours earning about $85 dollars which they'll use for soccer equipment. It seems Gunjur Project is helping out everywhere in this community!
Sunday we met up with Brandon (one of the owners) and a group of local kids he's gotten interested in birding. We walked with them to a local forest. We spotted lots of birds, plants with medicinal use, and a crocodile. We had a quick lunch then headed to Lamin Lodge….slowly. After jostling about for about an hour, we arrived. It is considered as one of the top sites to see. We were a bit unimpressed is an understatement. The boat ride was way more than we imagined…about $35 each. We got into a small boat along with Carol & Mark & Adama. We paddled about 20 minuted and then stepped out into the mucky ground. It was low tie. We slowly made our way until we came to a steam through the mangrove. We walked slowly, slipping often spotting mud skippers (frog head, fish body), oysters and crabs. We finally arrived at the main attraction: a huge Baobab tree which we crawled inside of. Of course we had to tip them too. Monday morning, Jenny (owner) had heard how much we paid and had Omar call them and renegotiate the price. It was the first time Adama had been there and they had way over charged us. Jenny gave us back half the money we'd spent saying she'd make sure that didn't happen again! We learned an important lesson that may help us when we're out and about on our own.
Gambia #3
The next two days were very much like the day before with Rog at the bike shop and me at the school. Rog is impressed with Ibrahim who he says performs magic on bikes. He is learning lots from him and has been invited to his home. It's a busy place with people stopping by constantly and negotiating for bikes & parts. Teacher's are asking for suggestions but I hesitate to say too much…not that I don't have some! There's too much dead time and shouting lessons. Not enough books and no reading aloud. Only half the teachers are qualified but others are still going to school. Teacher's training here consist of going to classes during their breaks—about 3 months a year—for 2 years. Gunjur project sponsors some of their education. When I arrive in the morning, fun music is blaring as the kids play. At 8:30 the bell rings & kids line up for morning assembly…which last about 30-45 minutes. They sing lots of songs like If you're happy & you know it, Days of the Week & Months, and even You are my Sunshine! They also recite the date, review a color/shape/body part etc lesson, tell name of their town, country & president and finally sing the national anthem:
"For The Gambia, our homeland,
We strive and work and pray,
That all may live in unity,
Freedom and peace each day.
Let justice guide our actions
Towards the common good,
And join our diverse peoples
To prove man's brotherhood.
We pledge our firm allegiance,
Our promise we renew;
Keep us, great God of nations,
To The Gambia ever true."
We strive and work and pray,
That all may live in unity,
Freedom and peace each day.
Let justice guide our actions
Towards the common good,
And join our diverse peoples
To prove man's brotherhood.
We pledge our firm allegiance,
Our promise we renew;
Keep us, great God of nations,
To The Gambia ever true."
Wish those words become reality here…and everywhere.
They have a lesson plan prepared for the teachers from area complete with objectives and lots of interactive activities. Students & teachers shout and repeat most everything they say. Overall they seem very happy.
I've been walking the 1 km back each day which has allowed me to get a better feel for the area and a chance to get some nice pictures. A good lunch, cold Coke and cool pool awaits me when I get back around 2 …Rog about 3. We order dinner around 6…play cards while we wait and then feast on the delicious meal. Email, facebook, news and reading finishes up the day. Pretty perfect.
Friday, January 20, 2023
Gambia #2
Rested and ready to go, we took off for the local bike shop about a 20 minute walk. The shop is run by a man who has connection with a NGO that sends crates of old bikes & bike parts from UK. He and 2 other mechanics fix them and sell them for a very reasonable price. He also will house volunteers who come to work. Omar took us along with his own bike that needed repair. It didn't take Rog long to find his groove and soon was working right along with the others. He had Omar's bike fixed so he and I headed back as Rog now has a bike to ride to and from the shop! Happy boy! Omar filled me in on more Gambian culture info: men can have more than one wife, extended families live together in a compound—many owned by a family member who works in UK/US, very little alcohol as over 90% Muslim, only one university in Gambia, virtually no industry, farming is just to feed family with a bit left to sell to buy fish. Gunjur Project sponsors a women's garden which we walked through. Several wells had been hand dug complete with pulley & bucket to lower and then water rows & rows & rows of crops. Last rain was October & drought will last until July-Aug.
I took a dip in the cool pool, ate a chicken fajita sandwich, French fries & a cold Coke while I waited for Rog to get back. My plan to be at a school today was cancelled as school was closed for teacher training. Tomorrow…as they say in so many hot countries!
Next mornin Adana walked with me the km to the Kulukochi Community Pre-School. The headmaster gave me some background information about the school which opened in 2015 thanks mostly to the help they got from the Gunjur Project. Kids 4 - 8 who live in this area get a rich foundation in well-equipped classrooms. Curriculum is theme based with all four classrooms focusing on the same. Headmaster had a chart listing # of b/g and their tribes. Mandinka is the majority, Fula next with 5 others. He was enthusiastic and obviously loved his job. He had me join a Lever 1 class where a young girl, Laura from Germany was there fulfilling her volunteer obligation for 10 months. She was easy to talk to. I slipped in where I could and time flew. Adana & I headed back after the kids left around 12:50. We got picked up by is buddy driving a cab. A quick dip in the pool and another good lunch then some catching up in my blog filled the afternoon. Rog had a good time at the bike shop. He's enjoying working with the local guys and riding Omar's bike back & forth though it's a trick to ride on the sandy, rough roads & alleys but he's up to the challenge! He comes back tired but satisfied. The kitchen has been sending him a sandwich to take with him but he doesn't eat it til he gets back & then he jumps in the pool.
We've been eating dinner around 7 pm. Food is delicious & plentiful. We've had dessert every night—no weight loss for sure! Last night a kora player entertained us. It's an instrument with 11 strings. We go to bed tired and happy.
I took a dip in the cool pool, ate a chicken fajita sandwich, French fries & a cold Coke while I waited for Rog to get back. My plan to be at a school today was cancelled as school was closed for teacher training. Tomorrow…as they say in so many hot countries!
Next mornin Adana walked with me the km to the Kulukochi Community Pre-School. The headmaster gave me some background information about the school which opened in 2015 thanks mostly to the help they got from the Gunjur Project. Kids 4 - 8 who live in this area get a rich foundation in well-equipped classrooms. Curriculum is theme based with all four classrooms focusing on the same. Headmaster had a chart listing # of b/g and their tribes. Mandinka is the majority, Fula next with 5 others. He was enthusiastic and obviously loved his job. He had me join a Lever 1 class where a young girl, Laura from Germany was there fulfilling her volunteer obligation for 10 months. She was easy to talk to. I slipped in where I could and time flew. Adana & I headed back after the kids left around 12:50. We got picked up by is buddy driving a cab. A quick dip in the pool and another good lunch then some catching up in my blog filled the afternoon. Rog had a good time at the bike shop. He's enjoying working with the local guys and riding Omar's bike back & forth though it's a trick to ride on the sandy, rough roads & alleys but he's up to the challenge! He comes back tired but satisfied. The kitchen has been sending him a sandwich to take with him but he doesn't eat it til he gets back & then he jumps in the pool.
We've been eating dinner around 7 pm. Food is delicious & plentiful. We've had dessert every night—no weight loss for sure! Last night a kora player entertained us. It's an instrument with 11 strings. We go to bed tired and happy.
Gambia #1
We made it…48 hours after leaving home! Let me say from the get go…this blog will NOT be polished or spell checked or anything checked as I have spotty internet if any and therefore, I just want get 'er dun.
We left home on Fri the 13th…always a lucky day for us. We'd wondered since it'd had been such a worrisome fiasco getting our visas which ended with our passports in the lake…but that's another long story. We left our house at 10 am and Ben took us to the airport. Our first flight was canceled. Warning 3. We choice to take another flight to Montreal know our 2nd flight wouldn't be until tomorrow. Montreal had a snow & ice everywhere. We took an Uber to a hotel & slept well. Woke late & read until noon. Our next flight was to Paris which took off at 6 pm, 6 hours flight, 6 hour layover and then 6 hours to Banjur arriving at 9:30 PM, Sun 1/15…very tired. Lemin was there to take us to Gunjur Project. This is run by a family from UK who worked with at risk kids and thought they'd truly benefit from seeing how many other live and let them have the experience of helping those less fortunate. Since they couldn't find a secure and adequate place in Gambia…they decided to build one and then host groups & others who want to volunteer while they travel. Perfect fit for us.
Our room is quite nice with flush toilet, warm shower & fan. We slept well and ate a bountiful breakfast of omelets, potato sauce & orange juice. We met the owners; Jo, Butch, Brandon & Jenny who have been here 16 years and improving the community in so many ways! Omar took us for a walk around the neighborhood. We walked by hoes & stores where poverty was loud and clear. Trash was abundant. So sad plastic, cans & pampers replaced baskets, clay pots & cloth. Our walk took us to a gorgeous mosque which looked over the ocean. Most Gambians are Muslims. The ocean breeze was welcomed! A few kids frolicked naked in the waves Then we meandered through the fishing center. So many fish in humungous plastic bowls being cleaned by mostly women many with babies strapped to the backs or running about. Somehow many were carrying those bowls on their heads without holding on. How did they get them up there??? Hundred of colorful boats painted with unique designed were in the water and on the shore. Some being pushed onto the shore by men using chants to move in sync. Fish was being fried over coal fires & sold as we watched. In another cement building, thousands of fish were being smoked…can't imagine a hotter job. I felt like I was walking through a National Geographic documentary. Omar told us most were Mandinka and they didn't want us to take pictures so I tried to let the scene sink deep in my memory.
We got back to our room, laid on our solar beds with the fan blowing on us and it seemed even nicer than when we got here! Last week we were at the height of luxury in an all-inclusive resort in Cancun. Such a vast difference! Pizza & Yassa for lunch and Sweet & Sour chicken (fresh pineapple was divine) and benachin for dinner…you can guess who ate what. No Diet Coke so I drank Coke…poor me. We have weak or no internet but did get a few pictures sent to our kids. All is well in Gambia!
Monday, March 16, 2020
Wrap up & our flight home to find Jake in ICU
Eleven down...how many more trips to go?? I sure don't know.
Again we experienced a unique, enriching & wonderful trip. Having Ben & Jen with us for the first 2 weeks in itself made this trip extraordinary. To work beside them, see their excitement of being with the locals & the thrill of spotting animals in the wild! All priceless.
Mozambique poverty makes my heart hurt. Yet as in other poor countries, we find much joy. Joy in their everyday lives. We, of course, found joy in helping build new schools along side AHAH volunteers, playing with orphans & disabled kids, spending time with the Larsons & Iris missionaries.
South Africa has spectacular landscapes: felt covered mountains, roaring waterfalls, gorgeous flowers, rich crops & endless fabulous beaches. But we fear for it's future. Many of our Airbnb host shared much about the real South Africa...a 3rd world county with a 1st world veneer...that's cracking. The rich white own everything and the struggling blacks do the work. A black leader governs. The tension was always in the air.
Lesotho is a proud tiny country that is barely surviving & still living in the last century. Herding animals still common. They are tightly holding on to their traditions.
And Botswanan emerging as an African success story. Never had the white/black issue. Their middle class is increasing & mostly black shop in their brand new malls...or in the small vendors right in front of the malls. Several good roads with animals grazing on the side and mediums. Time spent with Em added the sprinkle on top.
The Coronavirus cut our trip 2 weeks short as news of travel bans & flight cancellation escalated. In spite of all the hype, we did not experience any precautions..no temps taken, no gloves/mask offered & no hand sanitizer available before or after flights. Not in any of the 4 airports we were in. Not even Detroit.
When we got to Canada, I put my US sim card in. A recent message from Sarah hit us like an asteroid. Jake had fallen and was in ICU. Ben (with Lysol spray bottle) picked us up, stopped & got us groceries, dropped us off at home and then he & Bekah left for Allegheny Hospital. We made the heart wrenching decision to stay home & self isolate. Did not want to take the chance of exposing Jake or his family to the virus.
Now three days later, Jake is still in ICU but improving and we're on the phone lots but still isolated.
What a strange blessing that we were on our way home when Jake fell...but can't be with him.
Life is so full of twist & turns. Our trips increase them making our lives richer, more fulfilling & exciting and open our eyes & hearts to many places & people in this increasingly shrinking world!
Sent from my iPhone
Again we experienced a unique, enriching & wonderful trip. Having Ben & Jen with us for the first 2 weeks in itself made this trip extraordinary. To work beside them, see their excitement of being with the locals & the thrill of spotting animals in the wild! All priceless.
Mozambique poverty makes my heart hurt. Yet as in other poor countries, we find much joy. Joy in their everyday lives. We, of course, found joy in helping build new schools along side AHAH volunteers, playing with orphans & disabled kids, spending time with the Larsons & Iris missionaries.
South Africa has spectacular landscapes: felt covered mountains, roaring waterfalls, gorgeous flowers, rich crops & endless fabulous beaches. But we fear for it's future. Many of our Airbnb host shared much about the real South Africa...a 3rd world county with a 1st world veneer...that's cracking. The rich white own everything and the struggling blacks do the work. A black leader governs. The tension was always in the air.
Lesotho is a proud tiny country that is barely surviving & still living in the last century. Herding animals still common. They are tightly holding on to their traditions.
And Botswanan emerging as an African success story. Never had the white/black issue. Their middle class is increasing & mostly black shop in their brand new malls...or in the small vendors right in front of the malls. Several good roads with animals grazing on the side and mediums. Time spent with Em added the sprinkle on top.
The Coronavirus cut our trip 2 weeks short as news of travel bans & flight cancellation escalated. In spite of all the hype, we did not experience any precautions..no temps taken, no gloves/mask offered & no hand sanitizer available before or after flights. Not in any of the 4 airports we were in. Not even Detroit.
When we got to Canada, I put my US sim card in. A recent message from Sarah hit us like an asteroid. Jake had fallen and was in ICU. Ben (with Lysol spray bottle) picked us up, stopped & got us groceries, dropped us off at home and then he & Bekah left for Allegheny Hospital. We made the heart wrenching decision to stay home & self isolate. Did not want to take the chance of exposing Jake or his family to the virus.
Now three days later, Jake is still in ICU but improving and we're on the phone lots but still isolated.
What a strange blessing that we were on our way home when Jake fell...but can't be with him.
Life is so full of twist & turns. Our trips increase them making our lives richer, more fulfilling & exciting and open our eyes & hearts to many places & people in this increasingly shrinking world!
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, March 13, 2020
Just landed in Detroit
Made it to Detroit! We're planning to self quarantine. You can call us😊
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Wednesday, March 11, 2020
Update 40
Not much news here in Botswana...cows, goats & sheep are grazing on the side & medium of the A-1 highway, kids are hauling overstuffed backpacks to & from school, barbers & small time vendors are trying to keep cool in their make-shift shops, gas attendants carefully are cleaning windshields & pumping gas, people (almost all black) are shopping in the new malls, chicken & corn is grilling over the 1/2 barrel fire pits, mamas with babies strapped on their backs walk under umbrellas, dogs are outside barking, cells phones are everywhere, pot holes & speed bumps are slowing down traffic, nice houses are peeking over cement & electric fences, kids are rolling tires, termite mounds are growing, workers are hoeing in the corn fields, clothes are drying on the line, outhouse stand ready for use, cars are being washed under shade screens...all under a blazing sun.
It seems in stark contrast to what we see when we check the news in USA....election frenzy, stock market plummeting & Coronavirus exploding. Though we've tried to distance ourselves...how much farther away can we be??...we can no longer deny the chance of not being able to return and/or be quarantine in who knows where...if increasing each day. With just two weeks left...our plans to see Victoria Falls & visit Chobe Game Park...we're calling it quits and making a dash for home. We're leaving 3/12 & will hopefully be home 3/13...yup that's Friday the 13th. It's always been a lucky day for us...the day our 3rd was born.
We spend our last couple days with Em, at the day care center & then took a long drive. Really not much else to do around here. (No where else we've been has so little to do in it's capital city...even the locals don't have recommendations.)
It's been an amazing two months. Who could ask for more?!?!
Sent from my iPhone
It seems in stark contrast to what we see when we check the news in USA....election frenzy, stock market plummeting & Coronavirus exploding. Though we've tried to distance ourselves...how much farther away can we be??...we can no longer deny the chance of not being able to return and/or be quarantine in who knows where...if increasing each day. With just two weeks left...our plans to see Victoria Falls & visit Chobe Game Park...we're calling it quits and making a dash for home. We're leaving 3/12 & will hopefully be home 3/13...yup that's Friday the 13th. It's always been a lucky day for us...the day our 3rd was born.
We spend our last couple days with Em, at the day care center & then took a long drive. Really not much else to do around here. (No where else we've been has so little to do in it's capital city...even the locals don't have recommendations.)
It's been an amazing two months. Who could ask for more?!?!
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Update 39
It's been a true gift to spend time with Em. Last Friday night we again went out to eat together. Em shared much of her story and ways God has spoken to her. It is quite moving. Sat night we went to her apartment, ate pizza & heard more of her story. Sun a.m. we listed to Em play keyboard for the praise team in her church. After church, the congregation played field day games & gobbled down lots of pizza while visiting.
Mon a.m. we were surrounded by HS students who'd failed their exit test as Em inspired them with her words, rapping & singing. And Mon pm we relaxed together in her pool under the stars. Tuesday another dinner & rich conversation. Em's friends & co-workers often joined us giving us the opportunity to hear about their lives.
Em is vibrant, focused, talented, an enthusiastic lover of God on a mission to soften the hearts of the youth here...so they too will love God & be the force that makes Botswana a better country. Em & her friends' truly solid & deep faith is admirable. God is not abstract or distant but personal & internal to them. The love of God glows & pours out of them.
It has been an immense blessing to have had this first hand opportunity to have an inside peek at Em's passionate ministry!
Sent from my iPhone
Mon a.m. we were surrounded by HS students who'd failed their exit test as Em inspired them with her words, rapping & singing. And Mon pm we relaxed together in her pool under the stars. Tuesday another dinner & rich conversation. Em's friends & co-workers often joined us giving us the opportunity to hear about their lives.
Em is vibrant, focused, talented, an enthusiastic lover of God on a mission to soften the hearts of the youth here...so they too will love God & be the force that makes Botswana a better country. Em & her friends' truly solid & deep faith is admirable. God is not abstract or distant but personal & internal to them. The love of God glows & pours out of them.
It has been an immense blessing to have had this first hand opportunity to have an inside peek at Em's passionate ministry!
Sent from my iPhone
Monday, March 9, 2020
Imagine-Roger
To understand how the blacks in South Africa must feel, I decided to try to think of how I would feel if the situation were reversed.
Just try to imagine
...healthy black women and men, dressed properly for their workout, jogging or biking along the roads to keep themselves in good physical condition.
...hundreds of white people walking along the roadside going to work service jobs ( primarily serving black people) that pay too little for them to afford a car or bike to get to work.
..the blacks driving expensive BMWs and Range Rovers as they pass the hundreds of whites who cannot afford a car.
... those same expensive cars pulling into service stations where numerous whites, with smiles on their faces, jump to fill the tank, check the tires and wash all of the windows.
...white people politely serving and hostessing at nice restaurants that are filled with only black people, then walking home to fix a simple meal for their own family.
...numerous whites using grub hoes and weed whips to "mow" the unending roadsides.
...groups of white manual laborers taking orders from just one black man, their boss, who graciously lets them ride in the back of his pickup when he picks them up for work.
...white women walking along the road to get to work where they will clean, cook, launder, etc. at BnBs and hotels, so their black owners can make a profit....white people politely serving and hostessing at nice restaurants that are filled with only black people, then walking home to fix a simple meal for their own family.
...numerous whites using grub hoes and weed whips to "mow" the unending roadsides.
...groups of white manual laborers taking orders from just one black man, their boss, who graciously lets them ride in the back of his pickup when he picks them up for work.
...the privileged, wealthy blacks surrounding their homes with electric fences, walls, bars, gates, etc. to protect themselves and their property from poor whites.
...those same blacks complaining that their country is worse every day and they don't see any possible positive outcome for their country.
Roger
—Fortunately, we have found Botswana to be very different from S.A...
Wealth from diamond mines boosts the economy, and decades of relatively corrupt-free government results in a wealthy country. Nice stores, restaurants, and many more businesses are common here in Gaborone. All busy with well dressed and polite black shoppers. One of the safest countries in Africa.
Franshoek-Roger
We stayed with a young couple at their farm in Franschhoek, S.A.—
wine country. They have three small children and live in a rural area. The farm has been in her family since the 1600's. For the first time in South Africa there were no security fences around the house, no bars on windows, and no alarm system. We made sure to lock the door and also close the blinds! We are not sure if they are being careless, or maybe they feel that they are in a more secure area.
The harvest of apples was the job of the day with about twenty black men and women workers climbing ladders, crawling under trees, filling bags, and generally laboring to fill crates on a trailer.
They appeared to be enjoying the camaraderie of working together.
Christeli told us about one of their workers who recently came to her very upset and crying. There was not enough money
(about $50 U.S.) to pay the school fees so her child could not go. Christeli assured us that she and her husband had "sorted it out" so the crisis was averted. She went on to say that "they" just don't have the ability to plan for future expenses. She told us that South Africa has two distinct socio-economic groups (seems black and white to me!).
It is clear that those two groups have far different expectations for the way they will live and the work they will do.
wine country. They have three small children and live in a rural area. The farm has been in her family since the 1600's. For the first time in South Africa there were no security fences around the house, no bars on windows, and no alarm system. We made sure to lock the door and also close the blinds! We are not sure if they are being careless, or maybe they feel that they are in a more secure area.
The harvest of apples was the job of the day with about twenty black men and women workers climbing ladders, crawling under trees, filling bags, and generally laboring to fill crates on a trailer.
They appeared to be enjoying the camaraderie of working together.
Christeli told us about one of their workers who recently came to her very upset and crying. There was not enough money
(about $50 U.S.) to pay the school fees so her child could not go. Christeli assured us that she and her husband had "sorted it out" so the crisis was averted. She went on to say that "they" just don't have the ability to plan for future expenses. She told us that South Africa has two distinct socio-economic groups (seems black and white to me!).
It is clear that those two groups have far different expectations for the way they will live and the work they will do.
Sunday, March 8, 2020
Update 38
First thing this a.m., we joined Em for a prayer meeting & went on a tour of the Youth For Christ center. It's a big hall with pool table, table tennis, foosball, darts, etc that opens for the local youth. Em's office door needed a bit of adjusting so guess who did it?? Then Em led us to the Tapologo Day Care Center we'd visited before & she took off to visit a friend with cancer. The kids were all in a big circle with bowls of porridge on their laps. After an enthusiastic prayer, they gobbled down their food literally scraping their bowls clean. If another kid detected even a morsel left, he handed the bowl back. When all finished, I went out to play with them. Rog has brought Em's tools as he knew some door handles needed fixing. He soon discovered he needed to go buy new ones. We talked to Potlako, head teacher, asking if there was nothing else they needed. She hesitantly pointed to a small fan taped together. We started a list. Could we maybe buy a heater for each class too as winter mornings are very cold? The cook needs a place to store her "clean clothes" she keeps here. And the only adapter they have is her own. We said we'd see what we could find & started for our car. Potlaka caught up with us and in a timid voice asked if maybe she could go too. Grinning from ear to ear, she hopped in the front seat, put down her window & giggled when the wind blew in her face. When Rog accidentally turned the wipers on instead of the blinkers (imagine he's on the wrong side, shifting with his left hand & in a rented car), she busted out belly laughing! Potlako walks 1 hour & 45 minutes to & from school every day so I can only imagine how fun it was to ride in a car.
We stopped at the hardware & blding stores in the close village but found little. As we were walking back to our car, a man shouted at Potlako & she laughed. I asked her what he said...you too good to say hi to me when you're walking with a white lady??
Em had told us about a mall ten miles away. There we found everything! Potlako went into every store assessing the fans & heaters. I actually think she just wanted to be in each store...she'd never been to this mall. We purchased 2 large fans, 2 heaters, large bin, adapters, door knob & a bag of bubblegum suckers. Then we crammed it into our tiny car. Since it was after noon, we bought some meat pies & cold drinks. Potlako said she felt like she was shopping with her Mom & Dad. She was in heaven all the way back . Rog fixed the door handles & I set up the fans. When I turned one on, the kids started dancing & singing!
After Rog finished, he suggested driving the cook home, then came back for Potlako, her asst & me. It was a lucky day for the day care, those 3 ladies...and us too!!
Giving is exhilarating!!!
Sent from my iPhone
We stopped at the hardware & blding stores in the close village but found little. As we were walking back to our car, a man shouted at Potlako & she laughed. I asked her what he said...you too good to say hi to me when you're walking with a white lady??
Em had told us about a mall ten miles away. There we found everything! Potlako went into every store assessing the fans & heaters. I actually think she just wanted to be in each store...she'd never been to this mall. We purchased 2 large fans, 2 heaters, large bin, adapters, door knob & a bag of bubblegum suckers. Then we crammed it into our tiny car. Since it was after noon, we bought some meat pies & cold drinks. Potlako said she felt like she was shopping with her Mom & Dad. She was in heaven all the way back . Rog fixed the door handles & I set up the fans. When I turned one on, the kids started dancing & singing!
After Rog finished, he suggested driving the cook home, then came back for Potlako, her asst & me. It was a lucky day for the day care, those 3 ladies...and us too!!
Giving is exhilarating!!!
Sent from my iPhone
Saturday, March 7, 2020
Why the high unemployment rate? -Roger
Why the high unemployment rate? Searching for an answer, I found buried near the bottom of a list of possible reasons... "Cultural Differences".
Maybe it should be closer to the top of the list!
If one tribe was stronger, the men would take women and girls from neighboring tribes. In Lesotho they told us that the girls' hut was placed close to the entry of their village. This would enable enemies to take the girls immediately upon invading the village. That might buy them some time, allowing them to defend themselves. It was not seen as a bad thing if the girls were taken by another group because the girls would then be married.
Living in a tribe probably did not prepare the men to become role model fathers for modern families. The chief of the tribe that formed Lesotho had 140 wives. Male visitors to his compound were allowed to visit his wives but were required to leave their walking stick by the front entrance of the hut while inside. Their expectations were far different from expectations today.
Today, husbands are expected to be faithful and work to provide for their wife and children. The men have not had role models that showed, through their example, the way to be faithful providers.
Women in Botswana told us that it is common for a husband to have four girlfriends.
In Mozambique we were told that blacks think they are not stealing if they take something that is not needed or anything that is not being used. Also the mindset that one person shouldn't have more wealth than the others in the tribe leads to the idea that you should share what you have if you have more than others in your tribe. So...if you are not sharing what you have then others may take some of what you have.
Years ago while in Kenya, we were told that to be greedy is considered to be the worst possible trait. In that culture you must give what you have if someone comes to you in need. This is how they care for all in their tribe. It also prevents one individual from becoming rich and being "above", or better than the rest. Troubles are shared by all and no one gets a free pass. So why should they work and make a lot of money? They will just feel obligated to turn it over to others who need it more than they do. Why take responsibility for a wife and children? The community of women have always managed together to do what needs to be done.
Sent from my iPhone
Maybe it should be closer to the top of the list!
If one tribe was stronger, the men would take women and girls from neighboring tribes. In Lesotho they told us that the girls' hut was placed close to the entry of their village. This would enable enemies to take the girls immediately upon invading the village. That might buy them some time, allowing them to defend themselves. It was not seen as a bad thing if the girls were taken by another group because the girls would then be married.
Living in a tribe probably did not prepare the men to become role model fathers for modern families. The chief of the tribe that formed Lesotho had 140 wives. Male visitors to his compound were allowed to visit his wives but were required to leave their walking stick by the front entrance of the hut while inside. Their expectations were far different from expectations today.
Today, husbands are expected to be faithful and work to provide for their wife and children. The men have not had role models that showed, through their example, the way to be faithful providers.
Women in Botswana told us that it is common for a husband to have four girlfriends.
In Mozambique we were told that blacks think they are not stealing if they take something that is not needed or anything that is not being used. Also the mindset that one person shouldn't have more wealth than the others in the tribe leads to the idea that you should share what you have if you have more than others in your tribe. So...if you are not sharing what you have then others may take some of what you have.
Years ago while in Kenya, we were told that to be greedy is considered to be the worst possible trait. In that culture you must give what you have if someone comes to you in need. This is how they care for all in their tribe. It also prevents one individual from becoming rich and being "above", or better than the rest. Troubles are shared by all and no one gets a free pass. So why should they work and make a lot of money? They will just feel obligated to turn it over to others who need it more than they do. Why take responsibility for a wife and children? The community of women have always managed together to do what needs to be done.
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, March 6, 2020
Rich whites, poor blacks-Roger
Whites in South Africa now make up only 9% of the population, but own about 70% of the land and nearly all of the businesses and large modern homes.
About 46% of blacks are unemployed.
Those that are employed can be replaced quickly if they express dissatisfaction with the wage they are offered. Wage slavery keeps the black population under the control of whites. When a person's livelihood depends on wages, and their dependence is total and immediate, they have few options.
It is not unusual to see a black person defer to whites in small but significant ways. Looking toward the ground when meeting on the sidewalk... waiting to let us pass first...bowing their heads to show "respect". It feels like their role is similar to that of blacks in America before the Civil Rights Act was passed.
Also, we have noticed that the blacks who work as maids or gardeners often are treated as second class citizens. We are told their names when they first appear for work, but we are not introduced to them. It seems that we are not expected to speak with them. Certainly we do not feel encouraged to ask them about their family or any issues that concern them.
Is this a carryover from apartheid (separation of the races)?
One white South African told me that he expects much of world will look like South Africa within 30 years...with the wealthy living in gated, guarded communities surrounded by poor communities which will provide services to the rich.
It does not seem right that the blacks here are caught in a system where they have so little opportunity to have a better life.
It isn't right that they earn so little that they have to walk while expensive cars pass by them.
It isn't right that they constantly struggle to pay school fees, doctor bills, and grocery bills.
It is just wrong that their government is corrupt and fails to provide necessary services while the leaders pocket huge sums of money.
Thursday, March 5, 2020
Update 37
Hello Gaborone, Botswana! Why here?? Rog went to the same school with Hannah Hardy from K to EMU Masters Degree...and her daughter Em is here. We couldn't be this close & not stop in to spend a bit of time with her. She is part of Youth for Christ and does a variety of ministries. Em lined us up with an Airbnb near her & we quickly settled in, picked up a few groceries & made plans to help at a day care. The day care/preschool is for orphans in foster settings & disadvantaged kids. When we arrived, the 40+ kids swarmed us and after a quick tour, we were the newest attraction on the playground. When recess was over, we each joined one of their classes. I got the opportunity to read aloud...twisted my arm...so I read Hands, Hands, Fingers, Thumbs which was on their library shelf. Kids & I loved drum, ditty, drumming!!
On the way back to our Airbnb, we made plans to meet up with Em to go to the movie theater we noticed nearby. After getting (rather bland) popcorn, we sat down in a modern theater empty except for us and thoroughly enjoyed Little Women.
Day 2 we hopped in the car with Em and another Youth for Christ gal fro US, Kelsey. We visited a couple patients who'd suffer spinal injuries, then co-led an Alpha discussion group and finally helped at a tutoring session. All great opportunities to spend time with the locals.
We treated the girls to dinner at the restaurant of their choice, Simply Asian.
Throughout the day, we did lots of reminiscing about experiences we had with Em's parents and her life in Dexter.
Pretty cool day!
Sent from my iPhone
On the way back to our Airbnb, we made plans to meet up with Em to go to the movie theater we noticed nearby. After getting (rather bland) popcorn, we sat down in a modern theater empty except for us and thoroughly enjoyed Little Women.
Day 2 we hopped in the car with Em and another Youth for Christ gal fro US, Kelsey. We visited a couple patients who'd suffer spinal injuries, then co-led an Alpha discussion group and finally helped at a tutoring session. All great opportunities to spend time with the locals.
We treated the girls to dinner at the restaurant of their choice, Simply Asian.
Throughout the day, we did lots of reminiscing about experiences we had with Em's parents and her life in Dexter.
Pretty cool day!
Sent from my iPhone
Viewpoints of two white South Africans-Roger
(1) Every white South African that we have met so far likes President Trump. One even said that he would welcome Trump to lead their country if we don't want him.
He also said that their current all black government is led by incapable leaders who cannot be educated. He said that the blacks are not intelligent and cannot learn because they are descended from monkeys/apes. Whites are not like them because we are descended from Adam and Eve.
He continued...
The government ignores maintenance of infrastructure leading to load shedding and poor roads. Load shedding is the scheduled shut off of electric power to entire sections of the country for hours at a time (a major inconvenience as well potential cover for criminals).
Good jobs are scarce and available positions go to unqualified blacks while young whites remain unemployed. Older whites have almost no chance of finding jobs.
At school, black students pass with 30% correct.
Reverse discrimination on many fronts.
The blacks only want to do what they have to do for today.
There is no effort to make something for the future.
If given some land they will only work a small area close to their home and leave the rest or rent it to a white farmer.
Trash is becoming a problem because "they" are not taught to pick up after themselves. So they leave bottles, cans, papers, etc. wherever.
This is not the way South Africa used to be.
Blacks would tell you that they were better off under Apartheid.
Most young whites plan to leave the country. There is no future here for them.
The country is getting worse every day. Many thousands of South Africans have moved to Australia or America to escape the downward spiral of their country.
He went on to say that if his home is given to blacks , he will meet them at the door with a gun and take out as many of them as possible before he dies.
I asked if there is any way he could foresee a solution to the problems here.
He then said that he does not expect any improvement in the situation.
(2) Our hostess in Bethlehem (of all places!) expressed her anger over the current situation in S.A. At one point she caught herself and said, " It is horrible to talk this way but they just breed and breed...it's the one pleasure they have."
As guests in her home, it would have been rude for us to express our feelings as that would have, without a doubt, led to a political discussion leaving all involved feeling at odds.
We had been wondering how the white South Africans were feeling about the changes in their country since the end of Apartheid and had planned to bring up the topic at an opportune time. We welcomed her feelings as a learning opportunity, but do not agree with her.
He also said that their current all black government is led by incapable leaders who cannot be educated. He said that the blacks are not intelligent and cannot learn because they are descended from monkeys/apes. Whites are not like them because we are descended from Adam and Eve.
He continued...
The government ignores maintenance of infrastructure leading to load shedding and poor roads. Load shedding is the scheduled shut off of electric power to entire sections of the country for hours at a time (a major inconvenience as well potential cover for criminals).
Good jobs are scarce and available positions go to unqualified blacks while young whites remain unemployed. Older whites have almost no chance of finding jobs.
At school, black students pass with 30% correct.
Reverse discrimination on many fronts.
The blacks only want to do what they have to do for today.
There is no effort to make something for the future.
If given some land they will only work a small area close to their home and leave the rest or rent it to a white farmer.
Trash is becoming a problem because "they" are not taught to pick up after themselves. So they leave bottles, cans, papers, etc. wherever.
This is not the way South Africa used to be.
Blacks would tell you that they were better off under Apartheid.
Most young whites plan to leave the country. There is no future here for them.
The country is getting worse every day. Many thousands of South Africans have moved to Australia or America to escape the downward spiral of their country.
He went on to say that if his home is given to blacks , he will meet them at the door with a gun and take out as many of them as possible before he dies.
I asked if there is any way he could foresee a solution to the problems here.
He then said that he does not expect any improvement in the situation.
(2) Our hostess in Bethlehem (of all places!) expressed her anger over the current situation in S.A. At one point she caught herself and said, " It is horrible to talk this way but they just breed and breed...it's the one pleasure they have."
As guests in her home, it would have been rude for us to express our feelings as that would have, without a doubt, led to a political discussion leaving all involved feeling at odds.
We had been wondering how the white South Africans were feeling about the changes in their country since the end of Apartheid and had planned to bring up the topic at an opportune time. We welcomed her feelings as a learning opportunity, but do not agree with her.
Cape Town pics
Sent from my iPhoneCape Town & tray mat at McD...note the picture of field workers gathering potatoes.
Update 36
After spending one more day at a "proper beach" (as the locals call a gorgeous beach), we spent our very last day in South Africa in Cape Town visiting the Mandela Museum, Cape Town fort found while digging a foundation & soaking up the energetic feel of Cape Town.
Rog & I leave SA having marveled at the beauty & loved the people but also turned with feelings about the poverty & obvious difference between the blacks & whites...and SA's future. We feel guilty knowing we were only part of the white's world as all our Airbnbs have been owned by the whites & cleaned by the blacks. As hard as we tried, we didn't find a way to be part of the blacks ' world.
Ironically, when I needed to swap out the book I'd finished reading at one of our Airbnbs, The Help by Stockett was staring me in the face. It's about the black/white situation in Mississippi in the early 60's...or it could of been in SA in 2020. It is written from the blacks' point of view. Reading The Help opens a window to how the blacks might be feeling here.
Rog has been writing lots about this subject so I'll let him go in depth and try to capture our experiences and struggles to be a tourist here.
Sent from my iPhone
Rog & I leave SA having marveled at the beauty & loved the people but also turned with feelings about the poverty & obvious difference between the blacks & whites...and SA's future. We feel guilty knowing we were only part of the white's world as all our Airbnbs have been owned by the whites & cleaned by the blacks. As hard as we tried, we didn't find a way to be part of the blacks ' world.
Ironically, when I needed to swap out the book I'd finished reading at one of our Airbnbs, The Help by Stockett was staring me in the face. It's about the black/white situation in Mississippi in the early 60's...or it could of been in SA in 2020. It is written from the blacks' point of view. Reading The Help opens a window to how the blacks might be feeling here.
Rog has been writing lots about this subject so I'll let him go in depth and try to capture our experiences and struggles to be a tourist here.
Sent from my iPhone
Wednesday, March 4, 2020
Viewpoints of two black South Africans-Roger
(1) We stopped to talk with a young black man who watched our car while we were on the beach. He has been working with another man for four years watching cars in a small lot. About 10 cars might park here when the weather is nice. From the lot, people can walk down a few steps to a beautiful beach on the Indian Ocean.
When we asked about his day he said that it was a good day because the weather improved and people came to park in the lot, so he would be able to eat! There is no set charge, or even any requirement to pay him. He watches the cars and some give him a few Rand. 14 Rand= $1
He told us that he was very young when Apartheid ended but he has heard stories about what life was like before it ended. He thinks life here is better now, but everything is very expensive. When Jane asked if he was happy living in South Africa, he said that he had never been anywhere else so he doesn't know if he would be happier in another place.
He asked, "How do you define the word, "success"?
Then he told us he is Christian and he reads his Bible every day and prays, but seldom goes to church. He thinks success is doing some good for others each day and feeling at peace with your life when you go to bed each night.
He also asked, "Which man will enter the Kingdom of God?"
... A man who earns a million dollars a month and gives half of it to the needy, or a man who prays and reads his Bible and goes to church often.
How would you have responded?
——
(2) Walking back from viewing the African Penguins, we stopped to get a coke. The owner of a very nice seaside house had transformed the lower level patio into a shady spot where tourists could get an ice cream or a drink. Jane asked the black clerk if the house was his house. Just the thought that he might be the owner made him laugh. Then he told us that someday his dream is to have such a fine house as this.
How far away is his dream?
It seems that his dream cannot be realized without a revolution in expectations. How could a black parent tell a child that he/she can be whatever they want to be when the everyday reality of black service and labor provides such a powerful message to their children for what they should expect in life. This division has been entrenched in their society so long that it is simply accepted.
When we asked about his day he said that it was a good day because the weather improved and people came to park in the lot, so he would be able to eat! There is no set charge, or even any requirement to pay him. He watches the cars and some give him a few Rand. 14 Rand= $1
He told us that he was very young when Apartheid ended but he has heard stories about what life was like before it ended. He thinks life here is better now, but everything is very expensive. When Jane asked if he was happy living in South Africa, he said that he had never been anywhere else so he doesn't know if he would be happier in another place.
He asked, "How do you define the word, "success"?
Then he told us he is Christian and he reads his Bible every day and prays, but seldom goes to church. He thinks success is doing some good for others each day and feeling at peace with your life when you go to bed each night.
He also asked, "Which man will enter the Kingdom of God?"
... A man who earns a million dollars a month and gives half of it to the needy, or a man who prays and reads his Bible and goes to church often.
How would you have responded?
——
(2) Walking back from viewing the African Penguins, we stopped to get a coke. The owner of a very nice seaside house had transformed the lower level patio into a shady spot where tourists could get an ice cream or a drink. Jane asked the black clerk if the house was his house. Just the thought that he might be the owner made him laugh. Then he told us that someday his dream is to have such a fine house as this.
How far away is his dream?
It seems that his dream cannot be realized without a revolution in expectations. How could a black parent tell a child that he/she can be whatever they want to be when the everyday reality of black service and labor provides such a powerful message to their children for what they should expect in life. This division has been entrenched in their society so long that it is simply accepted.
Tuesday, March 3, 2020
A Swiss South African and his maid-Roger
The previous message was also By Roger.
Our Swiss host retired and built his beautiful house in Kleinmond. He invited us to visit with him for awhile after we got settled into our room. To our surprise he included his black maid, who was a woman from Zimbabwe. She shared some snacks and wine at the table with us and joined the conversation (first time this has happened!).
She expressed her opinions about the black South Africans (lazy, destroying all that is given to them, etc.) and also told us that the government of South Africa actually gives their poor blacks a house, but they often rent the home to blacks who come to S.A. from other countries. Having rented out their house, they then move to one of the "townships" where they construct a hut using corrugated metal and plywood. We have seen many of these townships...densely packed, no facilities except for a few port a potties, no shade. They appear to be a miserable place to live.
Our host then told us why he had a "for sale" sign in front of his house. He is concerned that the government might expropriate his house. If that should happen he will get nothing and will have to leave. Someone else will get his house. He hopes to sell his house to an investor, then rent it back and continue to live there. He thinks the government is terrible(corruption, bribery, cronyism, etc.). They are mismanaging everything very badly causing deterioration of infrastructure and more. The country is getting worse every day.
The government also allows farmers to be tortured and even killed with no consequence for the killers. The land is then taken by the government and given to black South Africans, but no legal title to land is transferred. Withe no collateral thee is no way to get $ to operate the farm so most of it sits idle and no crop is produced. The farm fails. He thinks the goal is for the government to gain control of the land and nice homes that are now mostly owned by whites. Then they will realize their real objective... a Communist country.
He also told us that the Chinese have been offering to help many countries in Africa in order to gain financial benefits. They offer to build roads, airports, hotels, and ports; and they bring their own workers to do the construction. When it is time to pay for the work, there is no money to pay them so they take payment in the form of trade deals and agreements that guarantee access to valuable minerals rights. The U.S. is missing the boat in Africa as China gets access to minerals and resources that will be needed for the future.
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Our Swiss host retired and built his beautiful house in Kleinmond. He invited us to visit with him for awhile after we got settled into our room. To our surprise he included his black maid, who was a woman from Zimbabwe. She shared some snacks and wine at the table with us and joined the conversation (first time this has happened!).
She expressed her opinions about the black South Africans (lazy, destroying all that is given to them, etc.) and also told us that the government of South Africa actually gives their poor blacks a house, but they often rent the home to blacks who come to S.A. from other countries. Having rented out their house, they then move to one of the "townships" where they construct a hut using corrugated metal and plywood. We have seen many of these townships...densely packed, no facilities except for a few port a potties, no shade. They appear to be a miserable place to live.
Our host then told us why he had a "for sale" sign in front of his house. He is concerned that the government might expropriate his house. If that should happen he will get nothing and will have to leave. Someone else will get his house. He hopes to sell his house to an investor, then rent it back and continue to live there. He thinks the government is terrible(corruption, bribery, cronyism, etc.). They are mismanaging everything very badly causing deterioration of infrastructure and more. The country is getting worse every day.
The government also allows farmers to be tortured and even killed with no consequence for the killers. The land is then taken by the government and given to black South Africans, but no legal title to land is transferred. Withe no collateral thee is no way to get $ to operate the farm so most of it sits idle and no crop is produced. The farm fails. He thinks the goal is for the government to gain control of the land and nice homes that are now mostly owned by whites. Then they will realize their real objective... a Communist country.
He also told us that the Chinese have been offering to help many countries in Africa in order to gain financial benefits. They offer to build roads, airports, hotels, and ports; and they bring their own workers to do the construction. When it is time to pay for the work, there is no money to pay them so they take payment in the form of trade deals and agreements that guarantee access to valuable minerals rights. The U.S. is missing the boat in Africa as China gets access to minerals and resources that will be needed for the future.
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Visitors to South africa
We came to see this country . We have enjoyed the scenery, the oceans, the mountains, the farms, and more. The friendliness of the people has been a real treat. Service station attendants, waitresses, and clerks have been pleasant and helpful.
Often our hosts at BnB's have invited us to share a drink, a snack, or a braii (cookout). They have happily shown around their yards, gardens, and farms. Many have given us helpful suggestions for places to visit or favorite spots to eat. All have been welcoming and generous, often asking if there is anything at all they might do for us. Several have asked us to tell our American friends to visit and enjoy all South Africa has to offer. Like most people we meet, they are just trying to do their best.
Nearly all of them are greatly troubled by the changes in South African government. Many have shared their concerns for the future... some have told us horrendous stories of torture and murder. The current situation is the result of decisions made long ago (mainly apartheid) and the carryover of attitudes and behaviors related to those decisions.
The whites here appear to be "protected" from robbery or worse by numerous strands of electric fence surrounding their property, barbed wire fence, automatic gates for vehicle entry, bars protecting every window and door, security lights, and alarm systems. These measures are required for wealthy white people to have a "normal" life here. Stories of attacks and murders prove that the safety net doesn't always work.
The black people here do much of the manual work...
field labor, clerks, waitresses, gas station attendants, etc.
With too little income to purchase a car, we see many of them walking along the roads or hitching a ride (we have been warned not to pick up anyone or even stop if a car has been in an accident as it could be a set up to attack us).
Restaurants and nice shopping malls as well as very clean and well stocked grocery stores are frequented almost exclusively by whites, while blacks sweep the floor, clerk, weigh fruit, and watch the parking lot.
Often our hosts at BnB's have invited us to share a drink, a snack, or a braii (cookout). They have happily shown around their yards, gardens, and farms. Many have given us helpful suggestions for places to visit or favorite spots to eat. All have been welcoming and generous, often asking if there is anything at all they might do for us. Several have asked us to tell our American friends to visit and enjoy all South Africa has to offer. Like most people we meet, they are just trying to do their best.
Nearly all of them are greatly troubled by the changes in South African government. Many have shared their concerns for the future... some have told us horrendous stories of torture and murder. The current situation is the result of decisions made long ago (mainly apartheid) and the carryover of attitudes and behaviors related to those decisions.
The whites here appear to be "protected" from robbery or worse by numerous strands of electric fence surrounding their property, barbed wire fence, automatic gates for vehicle entry, bars protecting every window and door, security lights, and alarm systems. These measures are required for wealthy white people to have a "normal" life here. Stories of attacks and murders prove that the safety net doesn't always work.
The black people here do much of the manual work...
field labor, clerks, waitresses, gas station attendants, etc.
With too little income to purchase a car, we see many of them walking along the roads or hitching a ride (we have been warned not to pick up anyone or even stop if a car has been in an accident as it could be a set up to attack us).
Restaurants and nice shopping malls as well as very clean and well stocked grocery stores are frequented almost exclusively by whites, while blacks sweep the floor, clerk, weigh fruit, and watch the parking lot.
Saturday, February 29, 2020
Update 35
Headed east out of Cape Town passing nice home for several miles and then BANG...shanties as far as we could see! Correlated metal shacks with satellite dishes, ports potties, elec lines, clothes handing on lines & fences and an assortment of vehicle parts. Just as fast as it came into view...it went out and back to nice homes. Like a line was drawn.
We were headed to Hermanus because several people recommended it. They didn't warn us about the mountain passes with cliffs so close to the edge of the road, Mr. Careful (Rog's nickname) was clenching the steering wheel & his teeth.
Hermanus could be nicknamed The Freshly Painted White Town...it was quite lovely. We ate overlooking the ocean, walked the beach & then sauntered through the local market. Our Airbnb was close by in Kleinmond with Ernest as our host. He was originally from Switzerland & loved talking & showing off his fabulous garden & home he built 7 years ago.
Then Ernest invited to join him & his maid, Irene served us sliced wraps, chips & wine...then she joined us. She obviously is always included as she freely added to our conversation. She's from Zimbabwe and told us how it had once been a rich & wonderful place to live until the government became corrupt. They expropriated the farm land and there was no law & order...only bribes. Irene sees SA headed in that direction & Ernest agreed which is why he has a For Sale sign in front of his house. He thinks SA gov't might expropriate his house.
Irene & Ernest spent almost 2 hours detailing what they saw happening in SA & other African countries. And we again heard how China is cleverly getting ownership of mineral & fishing rights. Ernest said USA blew the opportunity to invest in Africa where so many resources exist. What an earful we got!
Next day we headed to Franschhoek...heart of wine country. We hopped an on/off wine trolley & visited 3 farms sampling as we went. Well, Rog sampled & I sipped & made faces! I though...Monica, Lisa, Ann & my other wine loving friends should be here...not me! But I did love seeing the manicured & gorgeously landscaped farms. Our Airbnb was in a cottage on a working farm...though not as grand as the wine farms we'd visited...it was very homey & on the edge of an apple orchard. The orchard had already been harvested, the host invited us to pick as many apples as we could find. That was a challenge for Rog & an offer he couldn't refuse. He found lots! He baked up several that night & we'll be eating apples for a while!
It was time to get back to the beach, so we headed toward the west coast & landed in Yzerfontein where walked the 16 Mile Beach (not all of it). and we watched an endless sunset. Funny Fact: our host has 2 small ordinary looking wild birds trained to come when she calls. They hopped in & out of our suite...and then flew off over the ocean & coming back to eat on our host's kitchen counter.
We're in Langebaan today...not such a nice beach but that crystal aqua water is beautiful sight. Saw over 50 para-surfboarders taking advantage of the winds. We're be going to Patarnoster tomorrow. It suppose to be a quaint little fishing village...though we heard the fishing is not good there anymore...and told not to carry anything valuable.
Tonight we're checking out possible flights to Botswana...thinking we want to meet up with Em Liddiard (our classmate Hannah's daughter) ASAP just in case we think it wise to come home early due to the Coronavirus.
Hoping that's not the case, but better safe than sorry.
Sent from my iPhone
We were headed to Hermanus because several people recommended it. They didn't warn us about the mountain passes with cliffs so close to the edge of the road, Mr. Careful (Rog's nickname) was clenching the steering wheel & his teeth.
Hermanus could be nicknamed The Freshly Painted White Town...it was quite lovely. We ate overlooking the ocean, walked the beach & then sauntered through the local market. Our Airbnb was close by in Kleinmond with Ernest as our host. He was originally from Switzerland & loved talking & showing off his fabulous garden & home he built 7 years ago.
Then Ernest invited to join him & his maid, Irene served us sliced wraps, chips & wine...then she joined us. She obviously is always included as she freely added to our conversation. She's from Zimbabwe and told us how it had once been a rich & wonderful place to live until the government became corrupt. They expropriated the farm land and there was no law & order...only bribes. Irene sees SA headed in that direction & Ernest agreed which is why he has a For Sale sign in front of his house. He thinks SA gov't might expropriate his house.
Irene & Ernest spent almost 2 hours detailing what they saw happening in SA & other African countries. And we again heard how China is cleverly getting ownership of mineral & fishing rights. Ernest said USA blew the opportunity to invest in Africa where so many resources exist. What an earful we got!
Next day we headed to Franschhoek...heart of wine country. We hopped an on/off wine trolley & visited 3 farms sampling as we went. Well, Rog sampled & I sipped & made faces! I though...Monica, Lisa, Ann & my other wine loving friends should be here...not me! But I did love seeing the manicured & gorgeously landscaped farms. Our Airbnb was in a cottage on a working farm...though not as grand as the wine farms we'd visited...it was very homey & on the edge of an apple orchard. The orchard had already been harvested, the host invited us to pick as many apples as we could find. That was a challenge for Rog & an offer he couldn't refuse. He found lots! He baked up several that night & we'll be eating apples for a while!
It was time to get back to the beach, so we headed toward the west coast & landed in Yzerfontein where walked the 16 Mile Beach (not all of it). and we watched an endless sunset. Funny Fact: our host has 2 small ordinary looking wild birds trained to come when she calls. They hopped in & out of our suite...and then flew off over the ocean & coming back to eat on our host's kitchen counter.
We're in Langebaan today...not such a nice beach but that crystal aqua water is beautiful sight. Saw over 50 para-surfboarders taking advantage of the winds. We're be going to Patarnoster tomorrow. It suppose to be a quaint little fishing village...though we heard the fishing is not good there anymore...and told not to carry anything valuable.
Tonight we're checking out possible flights to Botswana...thinking we want to meet up with Em Liddiard (our classmate Hannah's daughter) ASAP just in case we think it wise to come home early due to the Coronavirus.
Hoping that's not the case, but better safe than sorry.
Sent from my iPhone
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