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Tuesday, February 26, 2019

Update 55

Each morning we take the elevator down from our nice hotel room on the 4th floor of this All Saints Conference Center and walk out onto the courtyard. And each morning I'm humbled at the sight before me. So many refugees. Dressed in bright colorful wraps & head dressings or long black tunics, some with niqab (face veil) or western clothes with dropping scarves or men in pants & jackets. Most are holding or watching little ones. Across the courtyard is the church and more refugees sit on its steps. I think to myself, "Now there's a church that hears & lives Jesus' message."
As I walk between them, I see their faces clearly. Their color tone varies between pitch black to a light toast color. Eyes also vary from sparkling to dull. Most smile at me...and again the color varies between bright white...to brownish...to gapping holes.
The smaller children are chasing each other, playing with stones or in a small pile of sand left-over from a construction project. Rog & I gravitate to them and offer balloons. Some hesitate but a mom/dad quickly comes over and tells them it's ok (I think anyways). Then they reach out & a smile escapes. Each smile enriches my life more. If we happened to miss seeing a child, s/he may wander over ...but never begs. His bravery is rewarded with a balloon.
I often stop and admire a small baby cradled in his mother's arms. Many times they offer me to hold the baby. I admire the wonderful beauty of each and every one. As they pull on my fingers & I smile at them, their little faces flash a smile back at me. I think how much better our world would be if faces of all shades just smiled at each other. As I hold the baby close, I pray that somehow this baby will find a way out of poverty and to a good future.
It's an incredible way to start the day. Hours later when I cross the courtyard again, I am pleased to see several balloons still being played with. I'm so thankful for the opportunity to share God's love here among the refugees.
I'm attaching a prayer my wise friend Sue Ivey sent me. It captures my thoughts & prayers.

For those who see home and all it means disappear behind them;
For those who cannot see a home in the days ahead of them.

For all those who dwell in daily insecurity,
For all those who are weary and without a safe place to rest their heads.
For all families in migration, we pray.

May the image of the Holy Family who also had the experience of fleeing oppression
Stay with us at this time
And stay with us each night
As we are blessed with returning to a home.

May we also be blessed
With compassion for those
Still weary, still seeking,
Still with so far to go.

Refugee pictures






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Refugee pictures









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Update 54

We've been to the zoo where the thing that you do is....watch a multitude of domestic cats crawl in and out of the cages that held flamingoes, ducks, ostriches, etc.
Really...one made a duck his lunch! Unlike the aquarium, no animals were stuffed or pickled!
The Cairo Zoo reminded us of the US zoos about 50 years ago. Animals in small concrete floored cages. Also reminded us of why we quit going to zoos for a while. Though there was a decent number of species, usually only a few of each. We did see some hippos out of the water for the first time!!
We especially enjoyed watching many young Egyptian families having a splendid day. We didn't see any other foreigners there and since we were asked several times to be included in their photos...even had one couple sit their child between us & then take a photo...we got the idea that we were a rare breed on exhibit too!!

Sunday, February 24, 2019

Sudanese wedding






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Update 53

I just love how often we just happen to be in the right place at the right time!
Take Thursday night....we were headed out for dinner around 7...a bit later than usual. As we approached the exit gate, one of the RE staff, Mr. Boka stopped us & said, "You gotta stay! There's going to be a Sudanese wedding here anytime!" Looking around we saw a decorated canopy in front of the church and a few dressed up people lingering around. Mr. Boka went on to tell us that the wedding was suppose to start at 5...yup 5...but the bride was coming in a limo and it was stuck in traffic. So, of course, we lingered too. About 7:10, we spotted the limo trying to turn down the narrow street leading to the church. It had to go back & forth until it was lined up straight on. Slowly it crawled toward the church barely missing the parked cars. The church opened the gate...but then 4 cars needed to be moved to make room for the limo. Finally around 7:30, the limo door open and 3 bridesmaids in deep red dresses stepped out...and then the bride lavishly dressed in a sparkling, laced, enormously full skirted white wedding dress with a long train!
I was trying to be discreet & get a few pictures. Several of the local maids that we'd gotten to know had gathered and kept urging me to get closer. By now, the groom & groomsmen had entered the elegantly decorated church. The musician was singing beautifully (later learned the real singer had not shown up so the staff tech person was filling in). The maids almost pushed me into the church & Rog followed begrudgingly saying, "We shouldn't!" But I said, "Why not?? When else are we going to get a chance to see a Sudanese wedding?"
So there we sat in our sweatshirts in the back row with 3 maids in their pinstriped uniforms. One of them got the giggles & another kept slugging her & frowning...which made me laugh...which made her giggle more...pretty soon all 4 of us were trying hard to control ourselves. Rog trying to ignore us.
Though I couldn't understand the words...it appeared to be similar to our weddings with vows & rings exchanged and then hands joined ...all the while the camera man's bright light in their faces. Similar except for as each part of the ceremony ended, the guest let out a loud, high pitched shrill call...maybe a tribal call??? It was a sound that pieced the air & one that sent shivers up my spine.
We snuck out before the end but got caught by a guest who'd also snuck out...he told us we must stay for the party. We told him we'd come by after we ate dinner.
So we came back maybe an hour later... and it was over...almost cleaned up. The whole wedding reception had disappeared...kinda like a Cinderella story!
Really...this happened...you just can't make up stories like this!!

Saturday, February 23, 2019

Update 52 by Roger


Sometimes  Egyptian kids follow us saying "Money, money, money".  Even beggars have done nothing more than hold out their hand or put it to their mouth indicating hunger. Some adults have approached us saying, "Money".  Many nights we walk by an older lady sitting on a chair in the same spot holding out a small package of Kleenex.  She simply smiles and never says anything.  We have about 15 packages in our drawer.  Another man lies on a blanket propped up by a wooden crate surrounded by vases of flowers...often reading a newspaper.  He always smiles at us too.  No one has threatened us even when we don't choose to give to them. They simply leave us alone thinking about our choice. 
I have seen many Egyptians reach into their pocket & slip an Egyptian pound or two into the hands of these marginalized people.  Several times our taxi driver pulls over and rolls down his window to give money to a person sitting beside the road with hand outstretched. He has a bit more than they do and it is his choice to share what he has. I admire his quiet acknowledgment of their plight.
I am also proud of our country because I know many  Americans give from their abundance to help others in all parts of the world.  



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School for Deaf pics






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Schools for Deaf pics






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Update 51

Another day...another school!!! We'd never even visited a school for the deaf, yet today we were asked to observe and make recommendations. We questioned Francine's idea of sending us there but she was sure we'd be helpful...so off we went.
The school is one of only ten for deaf children in Egypt & houses 60 students—mostly from poor families. They have a K-10 program with class sizes between 5 and 10. Several teachers and staff were former students...two couples met there and now all 4 work there & their deaf children attend. The sense of caring and love permeated the whole campus!!
Besides teaching Arabic sign language and American Sign Language, they also teach math, carpentry, sewing, & crafts. The students were delightful and very excited to demonstrate what they could do and projects they had made. Especially enjoyed watching the maintenance many teaching two young men how to replace a door jam.
We spent over an hour with the director who is new and very determined to improve all aspects of the school but especially teaching reading. I never thought about how difficult that would be—how do you explain: the, but, what etc...when you've never heard a conversation???
Funding is a huge problem as well. There get no government money & very little money from the families. So they need to search for ways to cover the $20 per week it cost to teach and board these students. The Anglican & Coptic Church and Embrace Africa (UK NGO) are their main sources of funding right now.
The director picked our brains for suggestions: presentations to churches, organizations & NGO; Go Fund Me; Airbnb spare room; more selling venues for projects made by students; more sellable projects made by students; reach out to world wide deaf community.
We will have a follow up visit with the young lady, Youstina who is going to be responsible to raise funds. Her enthusiasm, love of the kids and youthful ambition will certainly be the key factors in raising funds!
After each of our school visits, we were asked to write a report so that has consumed much of my time lately. Kinda felt like the good ol' days writing reports!
A most interesting story we heard today was about a the deaf priest here who is translating the gospel of St Mark into sign language! He is also making a video with deaf kids acting the parts. He has just finished after working on it for ten years!! He's awaiting final editing and then it'll be available! Would love to see it!

Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Update 50

Made another visit to St. Raphael school today...the one for Sudanese refugee children we talked about in Update 35. We'd found a place in Cairo to purchase a few classroom supplies...including laser flashlights, posters, mounting tape, etc..so we came bearing gifts. The English teacher took us to observe in several math classes taught in Arabic. In a religion class, the students had some pretty deep questions for us...How do you know there really is a God??? How do you know what God wants you to do??? We could only give our personal thoughts...and made sure they knew "it wasn't the right answer" necessarily for them. The teacher encouraged the students to think deep.
Back in the principal's office, we spent time with the English speaking teacher showing him several simple teaching activities that he can pass on to all the other teachers. (Headbands, Hangman, Line Game, self correcting flashcards).
The principal had a TV set up in the hall showing a documentary about the UN refugee camp in Sudan that showed them performing their ceremonial dances and traditions. Several parents & older students had gathered there to watch. You could see the longing in their eyes. You could almost feel the homesickness in the air.
The English teacher rode back to RE with us just to make sure we got back safely. He said he hoped to make it to USA but it is extremely hard to get a Visa...might take him 10 years. We wished him luck and gave him our email address....hoping for him for a miracle!!

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Update 48

About Face! Yesterday we were in a home in Mokattam/Garbage City...today we were invited to the one of a clerk for the Canadian ambassador & her husband who is a professor at Cairo Univ (raised in Mexico City). Shocking the contrast!!
One about 10' x 10' with closet size kitchen & bath??off to the side...the other 150' x 50' with well stocked kitchen & a bathroom almost as big as the other. The contrast was startling...the only similarity was both host were warm and pleased to have us visit. We'd met Stella & Steve at church. They'd prepared a delicious, homemade meal of scrumptious chili, warm corn bread with honey butter, a salad & moist yummy carrot cake. John (Scot engineer consultant) & Margaret (English) that we'd also met at church were also there. I do love the British humor & accent. (Hello Mrs. Doubtfire!).
After dinner, we played a card game. Not trying to brag but I did win all 3 hands.
It's funny how 3 couples from all over the world get together in a country so different than all of theirs...can enjoy a fun evening & feel at home...though WE did feel a bit like we were the country bumpkins!

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Update 49

Gotta write about the roads here in Cairo. Roger thinks anyone who is ticketed for road rage ought to be sentenced to "driving in Cairo for a week." First imagine multiple dented cars in no particular lane, buses & taxis pulling over whenever someone waves (no bus stops), motorcycles with several passengers often sitting side saddle with a baby in arms or with huge warming food boxes or loaded with a variety of cargo (ladders, bread racks, chairs and my favorite, broken glass), bicycles also with passengers & cargo, constant pedestrians crossing (no crosswalks), peddlers hawking their wares weaving between moving cars, occasionally horse & buggies and cars parked most anywhere including sidewalks. Add to that scene horns blasting continuously ...especially taxis when they see us because they think we might want them to pick us up. Only one or two traffic lights.
Though the vehicles come with in inches of each other...we have not witnessed an accident...but we hardly ever see a vehicle without a scratch, missing mirror, broken taillight or dent so the evidence of accidents is prevalent!
This scene takes us back to our days in Calcutta. There and here each time you cross the road, you're playing the game of Frogger! It's best to cross with the locals.
Once you get out of Cairo & you go onto an entrance ramp (where a herd of goats are munching garbage), there's a newly constructed toll road!! It's got signs, dotted lines, guard rails and a shoulder. It has it all!! We heard they plan to extend it to Alexander in the north and Luxor in the south.
Just gotta find a better place to feed the goats!!


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Cave Church








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Garbage City








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Home in Garbage City








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Update 47

Francine (RE fundraiser) asked us to speak at church for the prison ministry so we found ourselves up front again. We both told the stories about the individuals we'd met in prison & then asked the church members to personally support with their time and/or money.
Right after church, we went to a Thai restaurant with Monica (RE education director) & Steve, her husband and their two little ones. They've been in Egypt for 6 years and as I wrote in an earlier update, they run a Sudanese community center & live in their settlement. It was nice to be "out with friends."
Then we took an Uber till we got to the Main Street in front of Mokattam....better known as Garbage City.. From there we had to take a Tuk Tuk into the bosom of the area. As you can guess, this is where the garbage collectors live & recycle the garbage of Cairo. There actually was a documentary recently made about them that claimed they recycle close to 90% of what they collect.
How do you describe the scenes?? Small rooms with piles of sorted trash being stuffed in grain bags or metal being pounded flat or welded together or cardboard bundled...kids of all ages, dogs, cats, chickens all dodging between Tuk Tuks, trucks with a mile high loads of trash & carts bringing in more loot.
When we got to the top of the rather steep hill, we were in front of the Coptic Cave Church...a local priest's mission to provide a church & also a hospital for the people who live in this "city." In an actual cave, the church seats up to 10,000 & the walls have impressive carvings of bible scenes.
On our walk down, we turned into an alley way, walked behind a trash pile & knocked on the door of Monica's friend. Inside was a small room with a bench coved with a slightly worn blanket, a bed, an old frig covered with stickers, rusty wash machine, table covered with a sheet & a pile of who knows what...and a woman delighted to visit with us & offering us sodas & treats. Her daughter & small grandson joined us. With Monica to translate, she shared pictures of her birthday party and her daughter's wedding (really how'd they pull that off???). She was as proud as any Mother of the Bride.
When it was time to leave, she invited to dinner anytime. I knew we wouldn't chance eating there which made me feel snobby.
Being able to get into the guts of places we visit happens because we get to know and be trusted by locals. It's what makes our trips deep & real.
Cherif (our Dexter friend, Jo's family) had asked us to stop in so we swung by his house on our way home. We showed him some pictures ...he looked at them and said, "He is my patient, Steve Mehaffey!" He even had his number so immediately called Steve to tell him that we were at his home.
In this city of 20 million+ where Monica and Steve live far from Cherif who's related to our Dexter friend..What are the chances???

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Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Menouf school









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Update 46

We are again asking ourselves, WHY US?? Today we were driven to Menouf about two hours north...into the Nile delta where lush green rich fields were growing a mass of food using manpower & donkeys. The only single family homes we saw between Cairo & Menouf were a few old adobe homes .Next to them were fairly newer tall buildings of reinforced pillars & framework with bricks filling in the open spaces. Most had reinforcement rods still sticking out on top...ready to add more stories. No money wasted on exterior paint. We didn't see any "live" construction but we imagine that not long ago...the old adobe homes were demolished to make room for the new tall buildings.
It was market day in Menouf and the road was nearly impossible to get down...overloaded tables, trucks, cloths spread on the ground all covered with food, clothing, household items, etc...and people!! People cleaning chickens, washing eggs, picnicking, etc...and shopping!
We were taken to a school...the only Anglican school around, 1000 students, 25 P-10th classrooms. We were asked to observe & make recommendations. Who told anyone we were qualified to do that?? Two old retired teachers??
Soon after we arrived, we were eating tameya (bean pita sandwich)& visiting with the principal, Mr. George. He explained his school was all inclusive...anyone could come...and he wanted to offer the very best education so that the school would continue to thrive & grow. They had plans to add on. Under Nasser, it was closed for many years & was reopened in 1984. Today the school still has many government controls forced to charge a set amount & take a certain number of students. More students than they have room for...
The school was neat & clean(especially compared to the rest of Menouf) and the halls & classrooms were filled with attractive & educational displays.
We visited 6 English classrooms for about 30 minutes each...enjoying the lessons, taking notes & feeling like who am I to suggest anything?? All of the teachers were good...two exceptional! Lessons were well presented & students engaged.
We were in Mr. George's office when the dismissal bell rang & many kids walked in to shake his hand & say good bye. He obviously enjoyed his students! After serving us a feast prepared by school staff, then went for a quick tour of the church & met the Indian pastors before being to taken to the room they'd arranged for us. Not the Ritz!! Mr. George said, "Doable for 1 night." Cold...and no hot water...and no towels...made us appreciate our nice room in Cairo!!
He left & we crashed. He was back 2 hours later & we walked our streets...literally because there were no sidewalks. It's a busy city with lots of new businesses & 6 million people. We stopped for dessert & then a friend of his picked us up in his horse & buggy & delivered us back to our room. You'd think we were celebrities...well except for our room that night. We brainstormed for tomorrow before wrapping up in the wool blankets and went to sleep wondering WHY US??
Day 2 in Menouf—
7:30 am Mr. George picked us up & at 8 all the students gathered in the sports field & we were introduced. Then we were asked to speak. Yikes no time to prep! Roger talked about their deep history & that the future of Egypt was on the shoulders of these young students. I followed talking about goals, importance for a good education & the necessity of being kind to all.
We observed the rest of the English classes till about 12:30. Then we sat around a table with all the English teachers...dedicated, hardworking & eager to learn teachers. I admired them! What they (and most) teachers needed was a pat on the back which we gave them ...pointing out many best practices we'd seen. We suggested that they teach each other their most successful strategies. We did have a few new ideas for them prefacing them with the fact that they know best...and they need smaller class size (average 45) and some type of projector so they didn't have to write everything on a whiteboard with their backs to the class. They readily agreed and asked that we make sure we told Mr. George (which we did).
I felt so comfortable sitting there with them...such comradely. Teachers are my kindred spirits! They were so appreciative with all our suggestions & so pleased to have us there!
As we enjoyed a huge bowl of koshari (national dish of noodles, rice, lentils w/ a tomato sauce), we summarized for Mr. George our observations...especially the teachers request. He talked about his deep desire to give these kids a great education and to have God's love shine through him...not by words but by his actions.
Our driver picked us up at 2:30 & by 4 we were "home"...exhausted & still wondering WHY US???

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