Bible lesson with Ninos
After double checking our supplies, we jumped in a taxi for a short trip to the Plenitud De Dios school. Ten little ninos were sent to the hall where we had set up our lessson. We did the same Good Shepherd lesson we'd done last Saturday so we had it down pat. It took some coaxing to get them to play Follow the Leader but once they caught on, smiles lit up. Two more groups of ten arrived and we enjoyed each and every one. Too quickly it was over and we packed up and walked home satisfied...knowing that each child had heard the message that the Good Shepherd, Jesus would find them if they felt lost. After a short rest, we were back at the cutting table...
Behind the Walls
As we always hope, we have managed to get behind the walls, gates, electric wires, locked doors, barred windows, dogs and security guards... into a home...and live as the locals live. Total immersion. An open window to understand a bit...appreciate more...and build a stronger and more authentic relationship. We are blessed. And though the distance to the school is short, each block we get away from the main street and each turn down a side street takes us deeper into the reality of how most live here. The road quickly changes from smooth paved to deteriorating, pot holed muddy dirt alleys. And even the clothing seems to fade and age before your eyes. But the sincerity of their smiles and greetings remains the same. We are blessed.
Wednesday, January 16, 2013
Tuesday, January 15, 2013
Starting to teach!
We're off the the races!
As life often goes, just when you wonder what you are gong to do next...the bomb hits. We went to a near by Christian school where the pastor-principal is a friend of Sonnia's. He asked us many questions...about our church, our mission vision, Obama, school shootings, our educational backgrd & experience, religion in our home town, etc....and then took us on a tour of the school. Sparse but 106 happy kids some thrilled to greet us in English. We met the pastor's daughter who is the English teacher and his wife who made the arrangements for our visits in classrooms and with two groups that come sponsored by Compassionate Int'l. Also, she scheduled visits at their sister church which is on the other side of town. So basically, she scheduled us to teach classes most every day for the next two & a half weeks!! And with Sonnia & Tatiana's help, we will prepare the lessons and all the materials we will need to teach them....and we thought cutting out 40 sheep was time consuming! We need to cut out 195 more, plus more boats, more arks, more animals...more everything! I did convince Sonnnia to use construction paper instead of the foam board so at least we can cut out more than one at a time!!! So you know what we'll be doing. We start tomorrow...and I can't wait...
As life often goes, just when you wonder what you are gong to do next...the bomb hits. We went to a near by Christian school where the pastor-principal is a friend of Sonnia's. He asked us many questions...about our church, our mission vision, Obama, school shootings, our educational backgrd & experience, religion in our home town, etc....and then took us on a tour of the school. Sparse but 106 happy kids some thrilled to greet us in English. We met the pastor's daughter who is the English teacher and his wife who made the arrangements for our visits in classrooms and with two groups that come sponsored by Compassionate Int'l. Also, she scheduled visits at their sister church which is on the other side of town. So basically, she scheduled us to teach classes most every day for the next two & a half weeks!! And with Sonnia & Tatiana's help, we will prepare the lessons and all the materials we will need to teach them....and we thought cutting out 40 sheep was time consuming! We need to cut out 195 more, plus more boats, more arks, more animals...more everything! I did convince Sonnnia to use construction paper instead of the foam board so at least we can cut out more than one at a time!!! So you know what we'll be doing. We start tomorrow...and I can't wait...
Monday, January 14, 2013
Cuenca
Last Night with Bob & Elsi
After returning from the church activities, Elsi jumped in the pool and did 10 laps while the rest of us sat soaking our feet and counted them. Then we played a bit more bridge and made our last trip to the food court...eating one more delicious cheesecake at LATTE served by our new best friend, Jimme. We exchanged emails and Elsi suggested he have a flag made so his customers could travel with it. We loved his genuine smile...watching him work...and mostly his cheesecakes!!
Off to Cuenca
Tatiana & her parents arrived at 5:15, threw our bags in their truck and we piled into a taxi and all headed to a bus station. For two hours and a half hours, we rode through another side of Ecuador: poor small villages much like we've seen in other countries, passing many on horseback, avoiding cows and rocks in the road, seeing healthy crops of rice, bananas, cacao (cocoa) trees, mais (corn) and sugar cane. We climbed many switchbacks to reach a Nat'l Park that was dotted with lots of lakes and waterfalls. Then sped downhill to Cuenca--a quaint traditional town full of churches and ice cream! We ate a huge breakfast which included a most popular dish called montipillo--maiz (pronounced like mice) cooked with rice...sorry Joyce Boyce if that made you lose your appetitie! We took a city tour on a two decker bus & when we came to some of the electric wires, a man with a towel lifted the wires so we could get under them. We are far from USA standards. We also got a treat as they were celebrating the Divino Nino (Divine Child)...so we got to watch a procession of small kids dressed as kings on decorated horses with a pig head on a platter behind them , angels on floats, and what looked like Cleopatra eating grapes. Our ride back was literally, in a cloud...raining...and as soon as we got out of the cloud, sunny again.
Good bye Bob & Elsi
As soon as we got back to Sonnia's, Bob & Elsi took a quick shower and after much hugging...Tatiana took them to the airport. We're sure going to miss them...
Dinner with Sonnia's Family
While we waited for Tatiana to returned (therefore no translator), we looked at pictures. Sonnia & her husband, Rodriga showed us their pictures from their trip to Dallas for a Gideon convention. It was fun hearing the excitement in their voices even though we only understood a little of what they were telling us. After Tatian returned & we'd settled our things in Tatiana's bedroom (which she has given up while we are here), we were called to dinner. Fine china and a tablecloth, fish, rice & a salad of tomatoes & radishes & onions greeted us. We ate and visited for almost two hours. We shared stories about our famlies, learned more about a young crippled girl, Alexandra whom they adopted when she turned 13 because she could no longer stay at the Prince of Peace Foundation that Sonnia is the president of, (adoption here is rare) and shared our hopes of helping bring God's love. In the end, Sonnia told us she had been praying constantly that we would be friendly people...and her prayers were answered. We were touched.
Cutting Projects
Since the pastor doesn't work on Monday, we could not visit the private school we hope to help at...so we worked on preparing a Bible lesson for next Saturday when we'll be at the church we were at last Saturday. Our lesson will be on the storm that Jesus calmed so we cut boats out of water bottles, made mast and drew a pictures of the disciplines & Jesus that we'll photo copy. We got all that done by lunch...so after aspargas soup & ceviche (raw fish dish...we took a walk checking out what's close. When we got back, Sonnia had another project ready for us to prepare...Noah's ark. We cut out 50 of many pieces and almost finished before dinner. Again, we ate and visited over an hour learning much more about the Prince of Peace foundation and Garret, a volunteer who has comes twice a year for 17 years, stays for a month and is a work-a-holic. It was a good days work...but I'm anxious to spend time with some kids!
After returning from the church activities, Elsi jumped in the pool and did 10 laps while the rest of us sat soaking our feet and counted them. Then we played a bit more bridge and made our last trip to the food court...eating one more delicious cheesecake at LATTE served by our new best friend, Jimme. We exchanged emails and Elsi suggested he have a flag made so his customers could travel with it. We loved his genuine smile...watching him work...and mostly his cheesecakes!!
Off to Cuenca
Tatiana & her parents arrived at 5:15, threw our bags in their truck and we piled into a taxi and all headed to a bus station. For two hours and a half hours, we rode through another side of Ecuador: poor small villages much like we've seen in other countries, passing many on horseback, avoiding cows and rocks in the road, seeing healthy crops of rice, bananas, cacao (cocoa) trees, mais (corn) and sugar cane. We climbed many switchbacks to reach a Nat'l Park that was dotted with lots of lakes and waterfalls. Then sped downhill to Cuenca--a quaint traditional town full of churches and ice cream! We ate a huge breakfast which included a most popular dish called montipillo--maiz (pronounced like mice) cooked with rice...sorry Joyce Boyce if that made you lose your appetitie! We took a city tour on a two decker bus & when we came to some of the electric wires, a man with a towel lifted the wires so we could get under them. We are far from USA standards. We also got a treat as they were celebrating the Divino Nino (Divine Child)...so we got to watch a procession of small kids dressed as kings on decorated horses with a pig head on a platter behind them , angels on floats, and what looked like Cleopatra eating grapes. Our ride back was literally, in a cloud...raining...and as soon as we got out of the cloud, sunny again.
Good bye Bob & Elsi
As soon as we got back to Sonnia's, Bob & Elsi took a quick shower and after much hugging...Tatiana took them to the airport. We're sure going to miss them...
Dinner with Sonnia's Family
While we waited for Tatiana to returned (therefore no translator), we looked at pictures. Sonnia & her husband, Rodriga showed us their pictures from their trip to Dallas for a Gideon convention. It was fun hearing the excitement in their voices even though we only understood a little of what they were telling us. After Tatian returned & we'd settled our things in Tatiana's bedroom (which she has given up while we are here), we were called to dinner. Fine china and a tablecloth, fish, rice & a salad of tomatoes & radishes & onions greeted us. We ate and visited for almost two hours. We shared stories about our famlies, learned more about a young crippled girl, Alexandra whom they adopted when she turned 13 because she could no longer stay at the Prince of Peace Foundation that Sonnia is the president of, (adoption here is rare) and shared our hopes of helping bring God's love. In the end, Sonnia told us she had been praying constantly that we would be friendly people...and her prayers were answered. We were touched.
Cutting Projects
Since the pastor doesn't work on Monday, we could not visit the private school we hope to help at...so we worked on preparing a Bible lesson for next Saturday when we'll be at the church we were at last Saturday. Our lesson will be on the storm that Jesus calmed so we cut boats out of water bottles, made mast and drew a pictures of the disciplines & Jesus that we'll photo copy. We got all that done by lunch...so after aspargas soup & ceviche (raw fish dish...we took a walk checking out what's close. When we got back, Sonnia had another project ready for us to prepare...Noah's ark. We cut out 50 of many pieces and almost finished before dinner. Again, we ate and visited over an hour learning much more about the Prince of Peace foundation and Garret, a volunteer who has comes twice a year for 17 years, stays for a month and is a work-a-holic. It was a good days work...but I'm anxious to spend time with some kids!
Friday, January 11, 2013
Cusco
Churches in Cusco
Massive. Elaborate. Ancient. Gorgeous. Sacred. Laden with gold, silver & flowers...and Everywhere...barely steps away from each other. The churches in Cusco dominated the squares and seemed to demand my attention. So I stepped in and felt myself shrinking as I look around at the grandeur that surrounded me. Hardly an inch all the way to the domed ceilings, was without intricate paintings, wood carvings, statues with princely clothing, mirrors meant to reflect your soul, stain glass windows, altars lining both sides with a central altar that overpowered it all. The most important was the Cathedral built on the Inca palace foundation which took over 134 years to build starting in 1534 and was flanked by two more huge churches. It has survived the 1650, 1950 & 1986 earthquakes. It houses the first cross brought to S. America and many original artworks including the last supper where guinea pig & papaya are shown on a platter. Judas' face has the coloring & features of a Moor. Mary is adored and often the central figure symbolizing her many roles and involvement in the lives of the Spanish. The most idolized crass has a blackened (by smoke) Jesus and legend is this cross stopped the tremors in the 1650 earthquake. Every year, it leads the Corpus Christi procession followed by many other saints (taking the place of the Inca mummies) . Another impressive sculpture was a silver plated pelican whose breast was bloody...gauged by the pelican herself in order to feed her young...symbolizing God's devotion to us. The audio tape I listened to emphasized the fact that the Inca & Spanish art and traditions were merged in the churches to help united the people...though the Spanish & European influence was by far greatest. In spite of that, the most attended mass is the 5 a.m. Easter service entirely in Quechua. The words I hope to bury in my heart were about the massive organs...the sound of their music is the cathedral breathing. It was most certainly breathtaking!
Last day In Cusco
While I visited the churches, Bob & Elsi finished up their shopping & then Elsi laid down as she must have eaten something that didn't agree with her. Rog checked out a couple more museums and right after lunch at McDonalds, we went off to the airport. Since we were heading to warmer weather, Roger donated his fluffy, bright yellow vest to our taxi driver. He was almost as happy to get it as I was to have Rog get rid of it. While we sat waiting, we got in a little more bridge.
Lima
We had to make the most of our one night in Lima, so after checking into our hotel, we took off toward the Miraflores...nice section. The taxi ride took us between the ocean and the 100-150 ft. sandy bluff. We checked out a restaurant recommended in Lonely Planet...thought we could do better so kept walking. It was a pleasant night. After a bit, we asked a man for directions and he went out of his way to direct us to a shopping center that was built on the bluff going down toward the ocean...under a park. We lucked out again! We enjoyed delicious seafood overlooking the ocean!
Guayaquil
Sonnia and her daughter, Tatiana were smiling, waving and holding a sign when we came out of the airport! We'd made another connection!! After we got to our hotel, we visited a bit and then discussed plans for the next several days. I had been a bit nervous about this whole part of our trip as so many things were not clear...but God directed us to the right place and had a plan. Next we went out for dinner & Sonnia & Tatiana went home & we all hopped in the hotel pool!!! First pool we'd seen. AAAhhhh! It's much hotter here so it felt wonderful. Sonnia had given material to cut out 40 sheep mask to use in telling the story of the last lamb on Saturday at a local church...so we got started tracing & cutting. Felt like old times to me. Around 9, we quit and walked down to a food court. All is well.
Tour of Guayaquil
Tatiana (who speaks great English) took us on a tour of the city. First to the market...much like the ones in Peru...and then up 444 steps along side newly restored houses which led to a chapel & great view of the city. We all were so hot...on the way Jane, Elsi & Rog asked a man who was watering his plants to run water over our heads. Gotta love my short hairdo! When we got down, we recovered in an air conditioned restaurant --diet coke & fries never tasted better. Then we walked the Malecon--wide sidewalk along the ocean that was had parks & gardens meticulously manicured. It only seemed right to be licking an ice cream cone.
Dinner at Sonnia's
The table was set in fine china and dinner ready when we arrived at Sonnia's home. We had a delicious meal of rice, beef like swiss steak, a cold pea, potatoes & carrot salad...and juice they called tomatoes but was thick & sweet. Next we worked out plans for tomorrow's lesson...practicing the song...learning the Spanish words we'd need. Sonnia showed us the felt board story she'll be doing. With plans all set, we went back to the hotel...Rog, Jane & Bob jumped in the pool and Elsi fell into bed. Yesterday, we'd told Sonnia we'd paint at the church after our tour but this a.m. she said we couldn't since something was going on there. Can't say any us were disappointed. We did come to work--but we are already at S. American pace. The heat & humidity here demand it.
Massive. Elaborate. Ancient. Gorgeous. Sacred. Laden with gold, silver & flowers...and Everywhere...barely steps away from each other. The churches in Cusco dominated the squares and seemed to demand my attention. So I stepped in and felt myself shrinking as I look around at the grandeur that surrounded me. Hardly an inch all the way to the domed ceilings, was without intricate paintings, wood carvings, statues with princely clothing, mirrors meant to reflect your soul, stain glass windows, altars lining both sides with a central altar that overpowered it all. The most important was the Cathedral built on the Inca palace foundation which took over 134 years to build starting in 1534 and was flanked by two more huge churches. It has survived the 1650, 1950 & 1986 earthquakes. It houses the first cross brought to S. America and many original artworks including the last supper where guinea pig & papaya are shown on a platter. Judas' face has the coloring & features of a Moor. Mary is adored and often the central figure symbolizing her many roles and involvement in the lives of the Spanish. The most idolized crass has a blackened (by smoke) Jesus and legend is this cross stopped the tremors in the 1650 earthquake. Every year, it leads the Corpus Christi procession followed by many other saints (taking the place of the Inca mummies) . Another impressive sculpture was a silver plated pelican whose breast was bloody...gauged by the pelican herself in order to feed her young...symbolizing God's devotion to us. The audio tape I listened to emphasized the fact that the Inca & Spanish art and traditions were merged in the churches to help united the people...though the Spanish & European influence was by far greatest. In spite of that, the most attended mass is the 5 a.m. Easter service entirely in Quechua. The words I hope to bury in my heart were about the massive organs...the sound of their music is the cathedral breathing. It was most certainly breathtaking!
Last day In Cusco
While I visited the churches, Bob & Elsi finished up their shopping & then Elsi laid down as she must have eaten something that didn't agree with her. Rog checked out a couple more museums and right after lunch at McDonalds, we went off to the airport. Since we were heading to warmer weather, Roger donated his fluffy, bright yellow vest to our taxi driver. He was almost as happy to get it as I was to have Rog get rid of it. While we sat waiting, we got in a little more bridge.
Lima
We had to make the most of our one night in Lima, so after checking into our hotel, we took off toward the Miraflores...nice section. The taxi ride took us between the ocean and the 100-150 ft. sandy bluff. We checked out a restaurant recommended in Lonely Planet...thought we could do better so kept walking. It was a pleasant night. After a bit, we asked a man for directions and he went out of his way to direct us to a shopping center that was built on the bluff going down toward the ocean...under a park. We lucked out again! We enjoyed delicious seafood overlooking the ocean!
Guayaquil
Sonnia and her daughter, Tatiana were smiling, waving and holding a sign when we came out of the airport! We'd made another connection!! After we got to our hotel, we visited a bit and then discussed plans for the next several days. I had been a bit nervous about this whole part of our trip as so many things were not clear...but God directed us to the right place and had a plan. Next we went out for dinner & Sonnia & Tatiana went home & we all hopped in the hotel pool!!! First pool we'd seen. AAAhhhh! It's much hotter here so it felt wonderful. Sonnia had given material to cut out 40 sheep mask to use in telling the story of the last lamb on Saturday at a local church...so we got started tracing & cutting. Felt like old times to me. Around 9, we quit and walked down to a food court. All is well.
Tour of Guayaquil
Tatiana (who speaks great English) took us on a tour of the city. First to the market...much like the ones in Peru...and then up 444 steps along side newly restored houses which led to a chapel & great view of the city. We all were so hot...on the way Jane, Elsi & Rog asked a man who was watering his plants to run water over our heads. Gotta love my short hairdo! When we got down, we recovered in an air conditioned restaurant --diet coke & fries never tasted better. Then we walked the Malecon--wide sidewalk along the ocean that was had parks & gardens meticulously manicured. It only seemed right to be licking an ice cream cone.
Dinner at Sonnia's
The table was set in fine china and dinner ready when we arrived at Sonnia's home. We had a delicious meal of rice, beef like swiss steak, a cold pea, potatoes & carrot salad...and juice they called tomatoes but was thick & sweet. Next we worked out plans for tomorrow's lesson...practicing the song...learning the Spanish words we'd need. Sonnia showed us the felt board story she'll be doing. With plans all set, we went back to the hotel...Rog, Jane & Bob jumped in the pool and Elsi fell into bed. Yesterday, we'd told Sonnia we'd paint at the church after our tour but this a.m. she said we couldn't since something was going on there. Can't say any us were disappointed. We did come to work--but we are already at S. American pace. The heat & humidity here demand it.
Wednesday, January 9, 2013
Quechua
Quechua
Today's descendants of the Inca (which once numbered about 12 million) are called Quechua. Their presence is very strong here. As we travel about, many are in traditional clothing and speaking their own language. Domingo (taxi driver) told us his grandparents live a 10 hrs walk up the mountains...after the road stops. They only speak Quechua (he speaks 3). And to think I feel bad about some of my grandkids being a 5 hr car trip away! We were able to enjoy soak up lots of the cultural music & dancing at the Cultural Center. Each day we dig a bit deeper and gain more appreciation for Peru!
Weather
We are just south of the equator but since we're high in elevation, it's a bit chilly in the am & pm and about 70 in the afternoon. This is actually considered their summer but weather is about the same all year. It's also rainy season so we've had several heavy rain storms...even one with hail--luckily we took cover in a nice restaurant where they gave us complimentary Pisco Sour (traditional drink) and we only got a little wet, Seems most roofs leak!
Pisac Ruins
We had one more ruin to check out--Pisac. We lucked out again with a great guide who proudly told us that Pisac ruins are older and higher in elevation than Machu Picchu. This Inca settlement was mostly for farmers so was surrounded by many terraces where root crops were grown. Our guide played a flute with a llama mouthpiece and picked several plants as we walked to the site...one was for dying clothes, another that helped with stomach problems, altitude sickness & prostrate (which he happened to sell) and another that when you rubbed it under water...it turned to soap. Really! Those Incas had lots figured out. Since they had such a healthy diet (quinoa, maiz, black potato and lean meats) most lived to be 100. The guinea pig which is very high in protein & low in fat, was raised right under the floor of the homes. When they wanted one, they'd just put some greens in front of the hole...out would come supper!! When they did die, they were mummified and put in a hole in the side of the mountain facing their settlement. They did not mourn the loss as they felt that their family was always near. The terraces facing the graves were filled with flowers. Our guide pointed out the many holes in the side of mountain (that had been ramsacked by the Spanish), he faced the burial and reverently played a song that filled me with such peace as it traveled over the valley between us and the burial site. It was raining & the wind was blowing...but nothing could diminish the beauty of that song. (Elsi bought the flute...how could she resist??)
Pisac Market
Perhaps the real reason we made the 45 min trip to Pisac was their famed market. Our taxi driver was friendly and we all learned a bit more...he, English and us, Spanish. He dropped us at the entance of the market and told us he'd meet us in about one hour at the end. So off we went...down what seemed like miles of tables laden with temptation. Though most were a repeat of the ones before...several had a few new items. The Boyce's found a few great finds but since it was one of the Sly's last opportunity to get gifts, they were wheeling and dealing and carrying lots of bags when our driver came looking for us almost two hours later. Not sure how long we'd stayed if he hadn't herded us out. We all rode back to Cusco with smiles.
Correction
Need to clarify my comment about the coca tea--it is made of the same leaf cocaine is made from but many steps & ingredients need to be added before it is actually cocaine...
Monday, January 7, 2013
Aguas Caliente and Headed to Peru
Thoughts..
It seems I can barely keep up with my writing...and miss writing about so many things...we are bombarded by sights & experiences constantly and feel like we're in fast forward...and loving it!!! We do miss our family & friends lots and love hearing from them via email.
Morning Walk in Aguas Caliente
With no real plans until our 2:30 train trip, we decided to meander toward a botanical garden our hotel clerk told us about. We discovered an array of interesting things on the way...light poles made out of railroad rails stamped 1926...a bird on a nest just inches above the roaring river...huge marble slabs fallen from the mtn above...gravel quarry...an old lady sitting on the tracks in what seemed like the middle of no where selling snacks so we bought candy bars. When we finally found the botanical garden at the end of an unworn path, the mossy steps, rickety handrail & mosquitoes made us question going in. As we tried to decide, a guy showed up asking for $4 each--we said no & he then asked for $2 which made us wonder if he was even official. So in the end, we turned back. On the way back we made a point of noticing the huge variety of flowers & flora we passed. Guess we did see a "botanical garden" after all!
Run to the Train Station
We dawdled around our hotel playing on computers & watching TV while we waited for the rain to stop. It lightened up but we thought it would quit so we waited. Someone noticed the time--2:00 so we had to take off quickly to make the train. Just as we stepped out the door, it started to pour llamas & alpacas!!! We put on our ponchos & covered up our suitcases and took off down the hill arriving just in time to board our train. Ironically, it was the same scenario as when we arrived.
Peru
On our train ride, we had a nice visit (between being awed by the passing views) with a gal from Peru who has lived in US for the last 7 yrs. She said things have really improved in Peru though there are still many poor. The economy is stable and there is less unemployment. So far, we have seen old & poorly construction...obviously no building codes...but not trash. Our taxi driver, Domingo was 21 and studying to be a tour guide. Though his spoke some English, trying to carry on a conversation was, as Elsi said, like playing charade. None the less, we did learn lots from him & we taught him some too! He said all kids K-12 are taught English every year. He will need 3 yrs University to be a guide, teachers & nurses need 5 and doctors & engineers need 6. He explained that the many unfinished houses were because they might want to build on later. We asked about the tall bamboo sticks with red plastic bags tied on the top in front of some houses. We learned that's where chichi (corn liquor) was ready to sell. As always, Roger asked about # of tractors. Domingo said there's 1 tractor for about 10 - 12 farmers. It was a sunny Sunday and we enjoyed seeing central parks full of people and lots of soccer games being played in the shade of the mountains.
Cusco Epiphany & Museums
We're back in the Royal Inca hotel. Everyone here was celebrating the Epiphany carrying around baskets with dolls depicting Jesus in them. The dolls were dressed in various ornate & detailed outfits which were being sold on the street. After a good night's sleep, we took off to hit the museums. After having been to Machu Picchu & Ollantaytambo, all the ruins & information we read was so fascinating. One museum was the original site of the Inca Sun Temple that was mostly destroyed by the Spanish who built a church there using some of the Inca structure. Another showed the chronilogical events from 15000 BC to 1600AD comparing different parts of the world. We learned about Tupac Amaru who 250 yrs after the Spanish took control, tried to re-instate the Inca rule. A clergy sat next to a cross as he was quartered in Cusco. When the clergy tried to return the cross, the nuns refused to accept it. We also read about deVega who wrote a detailed book about the history of the Inca. Most disgusting were some skulls showing how some royal babies' heads were bound so they were disfigured & could wear special head dresses. My favorite was about Pachacutec's (Inca leader) life. These words written on one display seemed to sum up so many of the feelings we'd been having about this great leader & the Inca people: Early in the 15th century, Pachacutec stamped his mark of genius on Machu Picchu...the Inca's heart beats in each rock of the sacred city and in the hearts of people all over the world. It now beats in ours.
It seems I can barely keep up with my writing...and miss writing about so many things...we are bombarded by sights & experiences constantly and feel like we're in fast forward...and loving it!!! We do miss our family & friends lots and love hearing from them via email.
Morning Walk in Aguas Caliente
With no real plans until our 2:30 train trip, we decided to meander toward a botanical garden our hotel clerk told us about. We discovered an array of interesting things on the way...light poles made out of railroad rails stamped 1926...a bird on a nest just inches above the roaring river...huge marble slabs fallen from the mtn above...gravel quarry...an old lady sitting on the tracks in what seemed like the middle of no where selling snacks so we bought candy bars. When we finally found the botanical garden at the end of an unworn path, the mossy steps, rickety handrail & mosquitoes made us question going in. As we tried to decide, a guy showed up asking for $4 each--we said no & he then asked for $2 which made us wonder if he was even official. So in the end, we turned back. On the way back we made a point of noticing the huge variety of flowers & flora we passed. Guess we did see a "botanical garden" after all!
Run to the Train Station
We dawdled around our hotel playing on computers & watching TV while we waited for the rain to stop. It lightened up but we thought it would quit so we waited. Someone noticed the time--2:00 so we had to take off quickly to make the train. Just as we stepped out the door, it started to pour llamas & alpacas!!! We put on our ponchos & covered up our suitcases and took off down the hill arriving just in time to board our train. Ironically, it was the same scenario as when we arrived.
Peru
On our train ride, we had a nice visit (between being awed by the passing views) with a gal from Peru who has lived in US for the last 7 yrs. She said things have really improved in Peru though there are still many poor. The economy is stable and there is less unemployment. So far, we have seen old & poorly construction...obviously no building codes...but not trash. Our taxi driver, Domingo was 21 and studying to be a tour guide. Though his spoke some English, trying to carry on a conversation was, as Elsi said, like playing charade. None the less, we did learn lots from him & we taught him some too! He said all kids K-12 are taught English every year. He will need 3 yrs University to be a guide, teachers & nurses need 5 and doctors & engineers need 6. He explained that the many unfinished houses were because they might want to build on later. We asked about the tall bamboo sticks with red plastic bags tied on the top in front of some houses. We learned that's where chichi (corn liquor) was ready to sell. As always, Roger asked about # of tractors. Domingo said there's 1 tractor for about 10 - 12 farmers. It was a sunny Sunday and we enjoyed seeing central parks full of people and lots of soccer games being played in the shade of the mountains.
Cusco Epiphany & Museums
We're back in the Royal Inca hotel. Everyone here was celebrating the Epiphany carrying around baskets with dolls depicting Jesus in them. The dolls were dressed in various ornate & detailed outfits which were being sold on the street. After a good night's sleep, we took off to hit the museums. After having been to Machu Picchu & Ollantaytambo, all the ruins & information we read was so fascinating. One museum was the original site of the Inca Sun Temple that was mostly destroyed by the Spanish who built a church there using some of the Inca structure. Another showed the chronilogical events from 15000 BC to 1600AD comparing different parts of the world. We learned about Tupac Amaru who 250 yrs after the Spanish took control, tried to re-instate the Inca rule. A clergy sat next to a cross as he was quartered in Cusco. When the clergy tried to return the cross, the nuns refused to accept it. We also read about deVega who wrote a detailed book about the history of the Inca. Most disgusting were some skulls showing how some royal babies' heads were bound so they were disfigured & could wear special head dresses. My favorite was about Pachacutec's (Inca leader) life. These words written on one display seemed to sum up so many of the feelings we'd been having about this great leader & the Inca people: Early in the 15th century, Pachacutec stamped his mark of genius on Machu Picchu...the Inca's heart beats in each rock of the sacred city and in the hearts of people all over the world. It now beats in ours.
Sunday, January 6, 2013
From dad
We had a great day hiking Machu Picchu. We liked our guide and found the inca ways fascinating. The buildings and terraces were so beautiful and well planned that it is hard to believe that it is just the ruins of their homes and fields from more than 500 years ago. Bob celebrated his 75 birthday hiking to the top twice and then to the Inca Bridge with me. We couldn't cross but the hike was exhilirating. Today we head back to Cusco and will be there for several days before heading back to Ecuador. Love, Rog/Dad
Bobs birthday
Birthday Dinner & Ice Cream
I just had to write a bit more((which I could about most everything!) about Bob's birthday dinner & ice cream. While we were eating at a street side table, a local band set up on the street right in front of us. I told Bob that I had hired them for him. He said he'd believe me when they started playing Happy Birthday. After quite a loud & long performance, they went from table to table collecting money & moved on down the street...where we enjoyed the backgrd music and could visit recalling past birthdays & all the cakes that Roger liked (hint: couldn't name one he didn't). Just before we left, the band played up "Feliz Cumpleanos a tu!" Bob had noticed a rare ice cream store on an earlier stroll so we headed to it. The refrigerated cart was so close to the steps leading in that we had to take turns teetering on them and avoiding the large hole in them to order what was really tasty ice cream. After the server finished dishing our order, he started cementing the hole in the steps only to be interrupted by another customer. Somehow that didn't diminish the taste of our ice cream!
Guinea Pigs
Another story...earlier when we were at our hotel in Ollantaytambo, we thought the "little casa" in the court yard was sooo cute. Later, we saw the cook carrying a large knife run out, pull a live guinea pig out from one of the "cute little rooms" and go back into the kitchen. We checked out the menu and sure enough, guinea pig was on it.
I just had to write a bit more((which I could about most everything!) about Bob's birthday dinner & ice cream. While we were eating at a street side table, a local band set up on the street right in front of us. I told Bob that I had hired them for him. He said he'd believe me when they started playing Happy Birthday. After quite a loud & long performance, they went from table to table collecting money & moved on down the street...where we enjoyed the backgrd music and could visit recalling past birthdays & all the cakes that Roger liked (hint: couldn't name one he didn't). Just before we left, the band played up "Feliz Cumpleanos a tu!" Bob had noticed a rare ice cream store on an earlier stroll so we headed to it. The refrigerated cart was so close to the steps leading in that we had to take turns teetering on them and avoiding the large hole in them to order what was really tasty ice cream. After the server finished dishing our order, he started cementing the hole in the steps only to be interrupted by another customer. Somehow that didn't diminish the taste of our ice cream!
Guinea Pigs
Another story...earlier when we were at our hotel in Ollantaytambo, we thought the "little casa" in the court yard was sooo cute. Later, we saw the cook carrying a large knife run out, pull a live guinea pig out from one of the "cute little rooms" and go back into the kitchen. We checked out the menu and sure enough, guinea pig was on it.
Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu
We've seen a million pictures, read the story and seen ruins in many places--but nothing prepared us for the site of Machu Picchu. Many artist have created great works of art carving wood, ice and stone...but the Inca carved a massive, granite mountain to create an entire city...all in about 100 years. We spent almost nine hours in awe and took hundreds of pictures and yet as we left, I couldn't help take yet one more look. In hundreds of years, Machu Picchu will probably still be a wonder...what have we created in the last 100 years that will awe generations to come? What an amazing amount of work the Inca had accomplished. Seeing Machu Picchu made us admire the Inca...and be dismayed that the Spanish conquistadors destroyed their cities...melted their magnificent golden statues &jewelry...and crushed a glorious civilization.
I could write mountains about today...but I'll try to hit the highlights & record a brief history. We were up at the crack of dawn peering out the bus ride that climbed about 900 ft turning sharp hairpin curves several times. Our guide, Peter gave us a brief history lesson as we passed by the plaque commemorating Hiram Bingham, the American who discovered Machu Picchu 100 years ago. He spent years leading work teams who cut through the vines, photographed the find and collected over 46,000 artifacts which were shipped to Yale Univ (which was to be given back to Peru but is still at Yale though Peru is hoping to get them back soon--shame on Yale!) Because of Bingham's meticulous work, 97% is original. A section has been left totally unescavated for the future perhaps with better methods. For the next two hours,Peter led us through many of the structures pointing out details, explaining reasons why & how things were built and creating a vivid picture of what Machu Picchu (translates old mtn) was like the early 1500's. He was very knowledgeable. I wondered if he had Inca ancestry It was the great Inca Pachacutec who greatly expanded the Inca empire with Cuzco as it's capital. Though no one is certain, he had Machu Picchu built as a summer palace and trade & education center and sacred ceremonial site. It's location is on the mountain exactly in the center of 4 other, one each facing NSEW. Built high so as to be closer to the sun god and included several temples honoring the condor (outer), puma (physical) and snake (undergrd). Pachacutec combined all these nature gods and worship the creator of all: apu kontiti pacha yachachi tecse illa wiracocha pumchao (try to say that--it translate to mtn, elements &knowledge power, mother of water, duality god) Inca rulers were mummified and carried to ceremonies & important meetings so as to help with decisions. A seasonal dial was carved out of the pinacle of the mountain which told them when to plant & harvest. Many of the building incorporated the mountain itself and all the other rock was quarried right from the mountain. (First green build) The work was done by the Inca people who were require to work for 3 months each year (their form of taxes). The soil that filled the terraces was carried up from other places on the back of the llama & these honored animals were also often used as sacrifices. (today they just have to keep the terraces mowed). About 1000 people lived there for about 100 years and then fled in fear of the Spanish though the Spanish never discovered it which is why it was not destroyed.
After Peter left us, we wondered about freely. The clouds that had engulfed us were beginning to melt away giving us grand views...and then erasing it all like an etch-a-scetch. About noon, we went to the picnic area to eat the peanut butter/jelly sandwiches we'd packed & Rog bought Bob a beer. When we opened our m & m bag--we sang Happy Birthday to Bob--75 yrs young--and the crowd joined in. After a nice visit with two Navy girls, Helen & Jennifer, we headed back into the park and were treated to a clear view of Machu Picchu and the mountains that surround it! It was like seeing it all again!! More climbing up to the top to see panoramic views, more pictures and more climbing down. The guys took off down a trail on the side of the mountain to find the Inca bridge..cliffs & sheer mts sides. They met up with Helen & Jennifer so they took turn taking pictures of each other. Finally, after almost nine hours, we were exhausted so we headed out. Rog spotted some leaf cutter ants on the hill beside us and we admired how hard they worked with such strength & determination--much like the Inca!!
We all took a nap when we got back to our hotel but by 6 we were ready to go out to have a birthday dinner & ice cream. Could a day get any better!!!
We've seen a million pictures, read the story and seen ruins in many places--but nothing prepared us for the site of Machu Picchu. Many artist have created great works of art carving wood, ice and stone...but the Inca carved a massive, granite mountain to create an entire city...all in about 100 years. We spent almost nine hours in awe and took hundreds of pictures and yet as we left, I couldn't help take yet one more look. In hundreds of years, Machu Picchu will probably still be a wonder...what have we created in the last 100 years that will awe generations to come? What an amazing amount of work the Inca had accomplished. Seeing Machu Picchu made us admire the Inca...and be dismayed that the Spanish conquistadors destroyed their cities...melted their magnificent golden statues &jewelry...and crushed a glorious civilization.
I could write mountains about today...but I'll try to hit the highlights & record a brief history. We were up at the crack of dawn peering out the bus ride that climbed about 900 ft turning sharp hairpin curves several times. Our guide, Peter gave us a brief history lesson as we passed by the plaque commemorating Hiram Bingham, the American who discovered Machu Picchu 100 years ago. He spent years leading work teams who cut through the vines, photographed the find and collected over 46,000 artifacts which were shipped to Yale Univ (which was to be given back to Peru but is still at Yale though Peru is hoping to get them back soon--shame on Yale!) Because of Bingham's meticulous work, 97% is original. A section has been left totally unescavated for the future perhaps with better methods. For the next two hours,Peter led us through many of the structures pointing out details, explaining reasons why & how things were built and creating a vivid picture of what Machu Picchu (translates old mtn) was like the early 1500's. He was very knowledgeable. I wondered if he had Inca ancestry It was the great Inca Pachacutec who greatly expanded the Inca empire with Cuzco as it's capital. Though no one is certain, he had Machu Picchu built as a summer palace and trade & education center and sacred ceremonial site. It's location is on the mountain exactly in the center of 4 other, one each facing NSEW. Built high so as to be closer to the sun god and included several temples honoring the condor (outer), puma (physical) and snake (undergrd). Pachacutec combined all these nature gods and worship the creator of all: apu kontiti pacha yachachi tecse illa wiracocha pumchao (try to say that--it translate to mtn, elements &knowledge power, mother of water, duality god) Inca rulers were mummified and carried to ceremonies & important meetings so as to help with decisions. A seasonal dial was carved out of the pinacle of the mountain which told them when to plant & harvest. Many of the building incorporated the mountain itself and all the other rock was quarried right from the mountain. (First green build) The work was done by the Inca people who were require to work for 3 months each year (their form of taxes). The soil that filled the terraces was carried up from other places on the back of the llama & these honored animals were also often used as sacrifices. (today they just have to keep the terraces mowed). About 1000 people lived there for about 100 years and then fled in fear of the Spanish though the Spanish never discovered it which is why it was not destroyed.
After Peter left us, we wondered about freely. The clouds that had engulfed us were beginning to melt away giving us grand views...and then erasing it all like an etch-a-scetch. About noon, we went to the picnic area to eat the peanut butter/jelly sandwiches we'd packed & Rog bought Bob a beer. When we opened our m & m bag--we sang Happy Birthday to Bob--75 yrs young--and the crowd joined in. After a nice visit with two Navy girls, Helen & Jennifer, we headed back into the park and were treated to a clear view of Machu Picchu and the mountains that surround it! It was like seeing it all again!! More climbing up to the top to see panoramic views, more pictures and more climbing down. The guys took off down a trail on the side of the mountain to find the Inca bridge..cliffs & sheer mts sides. They met up with Helen & Jennifer so they took turn taking pictures of each other. Finally, after almost nine hours, we were exhausted so we headed out. Rog spotted some leaf cutter ants on the hill beside us and we admired how hard they worked with such strength & determination--much like the Inca!!
We all took a nap when we got back to our hotel but by 6 we were ready to go out to have a birthday dinner & ice cream. Could a day get any better!!!
Saturday, January 5, 2013
More in Ollantaytambo
Our last day in Ollantaytambo was slow--giving us time to take in this unique village that has many parts much like it was when the Inca's designed it. We spent time in the local markets filled with everything from alpaca sweaters to skinned bull heads complete with eyeballs. Jane played Ring around the Rosie with three little ones, counted jumps to 53 to a young girl jump roping and of course, handed out more balloons. We followed a path the locals take along the river as Bob & Rog examined their fields. It started to rain in the afternoon which gave us an excuse to play some bridge...Bob & Elsi have been teaching us...usually we only play a few hands but the rain encouraged us to play several hands. We made a meal of various things we'd packed and hit the sack early.
Train to Aguas Caliente
Two moto taxis (motorcycle with a buggy attached) picked us up & off we went to the train station. While waiting in line to get on, Bob noticed a man with a Michigan sweatshirt on so he let out a "GO BLUE!" The man turned around only to tell us he was from Australia...meantime a woman asked us if we were from Ann Arbor. Replying that we were from Dexter, she said, "No way--my brother lives in Dexter!--David Laird." Of course, we all knew David and now we know his sister, Susan. Soon we were chugging along as the train followed the muddy, tumultuous Rio Urabamba between the massive peaks that poked through the clouds. Two hours of spectacular views around every bend.
Aguas Caliente
Plenty of aqua but just a little caliente (cold). It was pouring when we arrived and dragged our luggage up the hill to our hotel--no motor vehicles in town. In a short time, we dried out & the rain stopped so we ventured out to check out this very touristy village filled with people speaking so many languages & wearing a wide variety of outfits. We lucked out on selecting a great restaurant for dinner. Jane had stuffed potatoes (safe bet), Bob-garlic trout, Elsi-garlic chicken and Rog-always the adventures one--a Peruvian dish called ceviche (cold raw trout with onions, sweet potatoes & very hot peppers.) Our guide for tomorrow's BIG day met us at our hotel to pin down plans...things were not as we'd thought we had set us with the travel agent in Cusco so there was a rather long and unpleasant phone call but in the end, we got what we had been told we would--a private, two hour guide. It's only 9 p.m. but we're all in bed (me with Bob's laptop)...excited to rise at 4 a.m. to board the bus to Machu Picchu!
Our last day in Ollantaytambo was slow--giving us time to take in this unique village that has many parts much like it was when the Inca's designed it. We spent time in the local markets filled with everything from alpaca sweaters to skinned bull heads complete with eyeballs. Jane played Ring around the Rosie with three little ones, counted jumps to 53 to a young girl jump roping and of course, handed out more balloons. We followed a path the locals take along the river as Bob & Rog examined their fields. It started to rain in the afternoon which gave us an excuse to play some bridge...Bob & Elsi have been teaching us...usually we only play a few hands but the rain encouraged us to play several hands. We made a meal of various things we'd packed and hit the sack early.
Train to Aguas Caliente
Two moto taxis (motorcycle with a buggy attached) picked us up & off we went to the train station. While waiting in line to get on, Bob noticed a man with a Michigan sweatshirt on so he let out a "GO BLUE!" The man turned around only to tell us he was from Australia...meantime a woman asked us if we were from Ann Arbor. Replying that we were from Dexter, she said, "No way--my brother lives in Dexter!--David Laird." Of course, we all knew David and now we know his sister, Susan. Soon we were chugging along as the train followed the muddy, tumultuous Rio Urabamba between the massive peaks that poked through the clouds. Two hours of spectacular views around every bend.
Aguas Caliente
Plenty of aqua but just a little caliente (cold). It was pouring when we arrived and dragged our luggage up the hill to our hotel--no motor vehicles in town. In a short time, we dried out & the rain stopped so we ventured out to check out this very touristy village filled with people speaking so many languages & wearing a wide variety of outfits. We lucked out on selecting a great restaurant for dinner. Jane had stuffed potatoes (safe bet), Bob-garlic trout, Elsi-garlic chicken and Rog-always the adventures one--a Peruvian dish called ceviche (cold raw trout with onions, sweet potatoes & very hot peppers.) Our guide for tomorrow's BIG day met us at our hotel to pin down plans...things were not as we'd thought we had set us with the travel agent in Cusco so there was a rather long and unpleasant phone call but in the end, we got what we had been told we would--a private, two hour guide. It's only 9 p.m. but we're all in bed (me with Bob's laptop)...excited to rise at 4 a.m. to board the bus to Machu Picchu!
Thursday, January 3, 2013
3
Update #3
Mate de Coca Tea
While we waited for our taxi, Jane went in search of a Diet Coke while the rest drank yet another cup of Mate de Coca--an ammenity our hotel provides. It is suppose to help us deal with the 11,000 ft altitude of Cusco. Since it’s made from cocaine leaves, it may also be why we’ve been so happy here in Cusco! Jane did find her d. coke but the lady in the store insisted she also take a bag filled with --yup--Mate de Coca!
On the way to Ollantaytambo
We crammed into a taxi--think of sardines-and headed to our next destination--Ollantaytambo. It was two hours of white knuckles and speed bumps. At least at the speed bumps we could take pictures. We raced through several small villages where the house were made of adobe and by corn fields. Somehow the cows on the side of the road knew not to move even an inch closer. The mountain sides were crisscrossed with sheep and goat trails. Since it’s rainy season, everything is a shade of green. Gorgeous!
In Search of Our Hotel
Though our driver had the address of our hotel in Ollantaytambo, when we arrived, he asked for directions. He got lots of blank looks, several head shakes and a few who pointed up the hill. So up we went...the cobblestone road getting narrower and the walls of the houses on either side getting closer. We came to a rock in the middle of the road so Rog got out and directed the driver. He had about 6” of clearance. About then several dogs began to snarl at us. A broken down 3 wheeled tuk tuk stopped us. We started backing down the hill. Finally, we saw a flag at the bottom of a long stairway. We stopped and sure enough, we'd found it. I don't know who was happier, us or our
driver! It was more than worth the effort to find it. It was a gem! Tucked in the side of the bank of a stream with a panoramic view of the Inca fortress ruins high on the mountains across from us! We wondered if we’d gone over one of the cliffs on the road--and were now in heaven. Our room was built around rocks & even had a tree truck which had new shoots coming out of it. We sat on the lawn chairs in front in awe.
Checking out the Ruins
Just a few block from our hotel was the path that led to some ruins. The path was crude with loose rocks with barely room for two feet...but that didn’t stop us. We explored and admired the ruins and wondered how & why the Inc built so far up the mountain. Elsi did find a great spot part way up to sit and soak it all in.
Dining with a View
We happened upon a spot to eat that had a balcony overlooking the village square. We watched all the local happenings as we ate. Bob & Rog had “poor man’s” steak--big, paper thin and tough as cardboard. When the waiter brought the corn soup, he called it “mice supa”--it was lots better than it’s name implied!
A group from Chile sat next to us and we chatted. They told us that many S. American countries strongly held on to their ancient tradition but also added new ones brought to them by the Spanish and now immigrants. Example: on top of most homes you see the Spanish cross with sacred bulls on each side.
At one point we discovered that they were all musicians. That made Elsli excited! One was the conductor for the National Symphonic Orchestra of Chile, another the concert master on violin. Two were partially deaf. Another great find!
Correction: Mindo chocolate factory I wrote about earlier is in Dexter (not AnnArbor).
Up to the Ollantaytambo Ruins
The next day, Rog & Elsi bought walking sticks and then we were ready to tackle the higher ruins we’d been just looking at from our window! Up, up, up we went marveling at the precise placement of huge rocks fitting together like a jigsaw puzzle. There were dozens of terraces with water channels used for farming and rooms & paths with alcoves probably for torches to light the way. Around every bend, a view that hypnotized you! We spent about two hours just gawking. We didn’t really want to come down, but it was almost lunch time...
Multi-tasking
While we were coming down, Elsi was telling us how to say "right" in Spanish, when she stumbled and let out a scream--which caused Jane to scream. After we'd calmed down, a couple walking by told Elsi she should try to practice her Spanish while she was walking! That made us all chuckle.
Mate de Coca Tea
While we waited for our taxi, Jane went in search of a Diet Coke while the rest drank yet another cup of Mate de Coca--an ammenity our hotel provides. It is suppose to help us deal with the 11,000 ft altitude of Cusco. Since it’s made from cocaine leaves, it may also be why we’ve been so happy here in Cusco! Jane did find her d. coke but the lady in the store insisted she also take a bag filled with --yup--Mate de Coca!
On the way to Ollantaytambo
We crammed into a taxi--think of sardines-and headed to our next destination--Ollantaytambo. It was two hours of white knuckles and speed bumps. At least at the speed bumps we could take pictures. We raced through several small villages where the house were made of adobe and by corn fields. Somehow the cows on the side of the road knew not to move even an inch closer. The mountain sides were crisscrossed with sheep and goat trails. Since it’s rainy season, everything is a shade of green. Gorgeous!
In Search of Our Hotel
Though our driver had the address of our hotel in Ollantaytambo, when we arrived, he asked for directions. He got lots of blank looks, several head shakes and a few who pointed up the hill. So up we went...the cobblestone road getting narrower and the walls of the houses on either side getting closer. We came to a rock in the middle of the road so Rog got out and directed the driver. He had about 6” of clearance. About then several dogs began to snarl at us. A broken down 3 wheeled tuk tuk stopped us. We started backing down the hill. Finally, we saw a flag at the bottom of a long stairway. We stopped and sure enough, we'd found it. I don't know who was happier, us or our
driver! It was more than worth the effort to find it. It was a gem! Tucked in the side of the bank of a stream with a panoramic view of the Inca fortress ruins high on the mountains across from us! We wondered if we’d gone over one of the cliffs on the road--and were now in heaven. Our room was built around rocks & even had a tree truck which had new shoots coming out of it. We sat on the lawn chairs in front in awe.
Checking out the Ruins
Just a few block from our hotel was the path that led to some ruins. The path was crude with loose rocks with barely room for two feet...but that didn’t stop us. We explored and admired the ruins and wondered how & why the Inc built so far up the mountain. Elsi did find a great spot part way up to sit and soak it all in.
Dining with a View
We happened upon a spot to eat that had a balcony overlooking the village square. We watched all the local happenings as we ate. Bob & Rog had “poor man’s” steak--big, paper thin and tough as cardboard. When the waiter brought the corn soup, he called it “mice supa”--it was lots better than it’s name implied!
A group from Chile sat next to us and we chatted. They told us that many S. American countries strongly held on to their ancient tradition but also added new ones brought to them by the Spanish and now immigrants. Example: on top of most homes you see the Spanish cross with sacred bulls on each side.
At one point we discovered that they were all musicians. That made Elsli excited! One was the conductor for the National Symphonic Orchestra of Chile, another the concert master on violin. Two were partially deaf. Another great find!
Correction: Mindo chocolate factory I wrote about earlier is in Dexter (not AnnArbor).
Up to the Ollantaytambo Ruins
The next day, Rog & Elsi bought walking sticks and then we were ready to tackle the higher ruins we’d been just looking at from our window! Up, up, up we went marveling at the precise placement of huge rocks fitting together like a jigsaw puzzle. There were dozens of terraces with water channels used for farming and rooms & paths with alcoves probably for torches to light the way. Around every bend, a view that hypnotized you! We spent about two hours just gawking. We didn’t really want to come down, but it was almost lunch time...
Multi-tasking
While we were coming down, Elsi was telling us how to say "right" in Spanish, when she stumbled and let out a scream--which caused Jane to scream. After we'd calmed down, a couple walking by told Elsi she should try to practice her Spanish while she was walking! That made us all chuckle.
Wednesday, January 2, 2013
Update 2
Hi all and hope you had a great New Year's Eve & Day!
Can't believe all we've managed to squeeze in already! Realize some of you may not know that we are traveling with our Bob and Elsi Sly for the first couple weeks. They traveled with us to Thailand...and guess we all loved our time together so we're doing it again. And upfront you need to know that the keyboards here are different, there's no spell check & I'm not going to take the time to make corrections myself--sorry. So here's what we have been up to-
Quito-Ecuador Info
At 8 a.m. sharp our driver, Silvanna who was recommended by one of Rog's co workers Buzz Hastings, opened the door to her van and we climbed in and headed to Mindo. On our two hour ride, Silvanna filled us in on a wealth of Ecuadorian information: religion (85% Catholic), politics, health care, salaries (average $300 mo w/ health ins), housing cost, and holiday traditions. Overall, she thought Ecuador was improving in the last 30 years. There are fewer poor and they are receiving quite abit of government assistance. There is strong support for their current president. Their economy has really stableized since they started using US dollars for currency. Ecuador has it's own oil, plenty of clean water & farm land. Family size is 4 to 5. Crime, Columbian immigants & low salaries are the main problems. There...all you ever wanted to know about Ecuador!
Mindo: Orchids, Butterflies & Hummingbirds
Our route to Mindo had us climbing, descending & meandering through the volcanic mountains that surround Quito like a gigantic field of upside down ice cream cones! The valleys were often so deep we couldn't see the bottome. Trees clung to the sides...with occasional homes balancing over the edges. We stopped at an orchid farm to admire the many varieties of orchids that grow in the wild here. Some so tiny we had to use magnifying glasses and others as big as our hand. (Paige, you would have been in heaven.) But my favorite was watching and listening to to the many hummingbirds whose colors seem to glow. Next we went to a butterfly farm where our heads, arms and even noses were resting places for the multitude of butterflies. Hundreds of crysalis were carefully hung on a board and we witnessed several miracle births. I don't think I've had lunch in a more gorgeous spot. We ate on a platform over a fast flowing stream in the middle of gigantic flowering jungle plants. Trout from the stream were stuffed with veges, wrapped in a banana peal and baked to perfection. Mmmmm. No peanut butter today!
Mindo Chocolate Factory
Our last stop of the day was the REAL treat: the El Quetzel Caoca operation owned and operated by my neice, Annie's aunt and uncles. Her uncle, Francisco Mesa had been working elsewhere but came back to give us a personal tour. I will appreciate chocolate even more from now on. He began with the history: over 2000 BC the Olmecs used the beans in a drink known as the drink of the Gods. It wasn't until 1830 that Van Houten of Holland discovered the process that led to today's chocolate. About 50-60 beans grow in a pod on a tree that takes 7 yrs to mature...though scientist have developed a vairety recently that matures quicker but the chocolate is not as good. After the pod ripens, beans are fermented and then dried and finally crushed into nibs. That{s what they export mostly to Switzerland and Holland...and their own Ann Arbor factory. Next it will be ground, mixed with sugar, & boiled. All of this information was given as we walked among the cacao trees, holding the pods, crunching the beans between our teeth, munching on the nibs, tasting the powder and finally feasting on the 100% chocolate! (Hershey is 30%) We also mixed the chocolate with ginger & hot peppers. We tasted two of the latest by products they have developed: BBQ sauce and a sweet vinegar. And finally, we sunk our teeth into the best brownie ever! Francisco also took us through his garden of lava beds where we tasted lemon grass (choc flavoring), stabia (fake sugar) and with much excitment, he showed us his crop of dulcamara (a plant that slows cancer cells). We invited Francisco to Michigan to see Bob's maple syrup & Rog's pumpkin operations. After hugs and pictures, it was Adios!
New Year's in Cusco
Our ride home from Mindo was often interrupted as we came through small villages where young men dressed as sexy women held a rope across the road forcing us to stop so they could collect coins. Tonight, many large puppets sybolizing the old year, will be burned in the streets and these sexy women are pretending to be their widows and thus deserving support. The many laughs we got were sure worth the coins we gave out. After we got back to our hotel, we rested a bit then took off to the center of town to check out the puppets and more sexy women. It seemed pretty quiet & we were too tired to wait up till midnight so we went back to our hotel...and enjoyed the huge, dazzling fireworks & watched some puppets turn to ashes from our hotel window. Feliz Ano Nuevo!
On to Peru
We were on an early flight to Lima and then on to Cusco, a quaint village loaded with churches and museums. The cobblestone streets and narrow sideroads made pleasant walking before dining on pizza. This next morning, we spent time organizing our trip to Machu Picchu and so we'll be off soon!
Can't believe all we've managed to squeeze in already! Realize some of you may not know that we are traveling with our Bob and Elsi Sly for the first couple weeks. They traveled with us to Thailand...and guess we all loved our time together so we're doing it again. And upfront you need to know that the keyboards here are different, there's no spell check & I'm not going to take the time to make corrections myself--sorry. So here's what we have been up to-
Quito-Ecuador Info
At 8 a.m. sharp our driver, Silvanna who was recommended by one of Rog's co workers Buzz Hastings, opened the door to her van and we climbed in and headed to Mindo. On our two hour ride, Silvanna filled us in on a wealth of Ecuadorian information: religion (85% Catholic), politics, health care, salaries (average $300 mo w/ health ins), housing cost, and holiday traditions. Overall, she thought Ecuador was improving in the last 30 years. There are fewer poor and they are receiving quite abit of government assistance. There is strong support for their current president. Their economy has really stableized since they started using US dollars for currency. Ecuador has it's own oil, plenty of clean water & farm land. Family size is 4 to 5. Crime, Columbian immigants & low salaries are the main problems. There...all you ever wanted to know about Ecuador!
Mindo: Orchids, Butterflies & Hummingbirds
Our route to Mindo had us climbing, descending & meandering through the volcanic mountains that surround Quito like a gigantic field of upside down ice cream cones! The valleys were often so deep we couldn't see the bottome. Trees clung to the sides...with occasional homes balancing over the edges. We stopped at an orchid farm to admire the many varieties of orchids that grow in the wild here. Some so tiny we had to use magnifying glasses and others as big as our hand. (Paige, you would have been in heaven.) But my favorite was watching and listening to to the many hummingbirds whose colors seem to glow. Next we went to a butterfly farm where our heads, arms and even noses were resting places for the multitude of butterflies. Hundreds of crysalis were carefully hung on a board and we witnessed several miracle births. I don't think I've had lunch in a more gorgeous spot. We ate on a platform over a fast flowing stream in the middle of gigantic flowering jungle plants. Trout from the stream were stuffed with veges, wrapped in a banana peal and baked to perfection. Mmmmm. No peanut butter today!
Mindo Chocolate Factory
Our last stop of the day was the REAL treat: the El Quetzel Caoca operation owned and operated by my neice, Annie's aunt and uncles. Her uncle, Francisco Mesa had been working elsewhere but came back to give us a personal tour. I will appreciate chocolate even more from now on. He began with the history: over 2000 BC the Olmecs used the beans in a drink known as the drink of the Gods. It wasn't until 1830 that Van Houten of Holland discovered the process that led to today's chocolate. About 50-60 beans grow in a pod on a tree that takes 7 yrs to mature...though scientist have developed a vairety recently that matures quicker but the chocolate is not as good. After the pod ripens, beans are fermented and then dried and finally crushed into nibs. That{s what they export mostly to Switzerland and Holland...and their own Ann Arbor factory. Next it will be ground, mixed with sugar, & boiled. All of this information was given as we walked among the cacao trees, holding the pods, crunching the beans between our teeth, munching on the nibs, tasting the powder and finally feasting on the 100% chocolate! (Hershey is 30%) We also mixed the chocolate with ginger & hot peppers. We tasted two of the latest by products they have developed: BBQ sauce and a sweet vinegar. And finally, we sunk our teeth into the best brownie ever! Francisco also took us through his garden of lava beds where we tasted lemon grass (choc flavoring), stabia (fake sugar) and with much excitment, he showed us his crop of dulcamara (a plant that slows cancer cells). We invited Francisco to Michigan to see Bob's maple syrup & Rog's pumpkin operations. After hugs and pictures, it was Adios!
New Year's in Cusco
Our ride home from Mindo was often interrupted as we came through small villages where young men dressed as sexy women held a rope across the road forcing us to stop so they could collect coins. Tonight, many large puppets sybolizing the old year, will be burned in the streets and these sexy women are pretending to be their widows and thus deserving support. The many laughs we got were sure worth the coins we gave out. After we got back to our hotel, we rested a bit then took off to the center of town to check out the puppets and more sexy women. It seemed pretty quiet & we were too tired to wait up till midnight so we went back to our hotel...and enjoyed the huge, dazzling fireworks & watched some puppets turn to ashes from our hotel window. Feliz Ano Nuevo!
On to Peru
We were on an early flight to Lima and then on to Cusco, a quaint village loaded with churches and museums. The cobblestone streets and narrow sideroads made pleasant walking before dining on pizza. This next morning, we spent time organizing our trip to Machu Picchu and so we'll be off soon!
Monday, December 31, 2012
Arrived in Quito!
Hard to believe just 48 hours ago, we were putting Christmas decorations away and shoveling snow. Since then we had an easy flight to Miami and then just 4 hour flight to Quito...then stepped into a totally different world. We quickly found our hotel...a gem in it´s hay day with lots of decorative wood and gilded ceilings. Our window opened to a small courtyard and perfect view of volcanic mountains that surround this city of about 3 1\2 million people. Quito is the highest in elevation of all capital cities. We all crashed and woke up ready to explore Old Town. The city square soon filled with musicians, dancers, vendors, shoe shiners and the locals. Seeing a crowd gather, we joined in and were treated to a End of the Year parade of costumed characters...lots of them devils...frolicking down the street. How lucky! Then we were awed by the 4 tons of gold decorating the Cathedral Campania de Jesus. Ornate beyond compare. Interesting fact was since the Incas built it, it also encompassed lots of Inca symbols. We also went into a couple other Catholic churches all filled with gorgeous stain glass and unique Nativity scenes. Finally, we decided to get an overview of the whole city by taking a cable car ride up to 13, 287 ft. Now that was an amazing view! Talk about ending the day on a high!!!
Friday, December 28, 2012
Headed South
Mom and Dad are leaving tonight at 3am. I'll be updating this blog again as I receive their update email. -Bekah
Monday, March 26, 2012
Final Thoughts on China
Final Thoughts on China
This had been our hardest trip...language barrier, cold...our quick exit...but mostly seeing people in such desperate need of water, heat, education & mostly acceptance. I felt I had so little to offer and what I did was but a drop in a bucket that seemed to have holes in it. Their own determination to improve was the brightest beam of hope and witnessing that was what inspired me to do whatever I could. I won't forget the joy on the faces of the old & the love the children showered on me. I loved our team and felt each gave their all so we had accomplished the most we could.
China itself was a wonder...acient like I'd never seen or felt...the Great Wall, the Terra Cotta Warriors, the tombs, the Stone Forest. When we speak of old we say hundreds, they say thousands. And yet amidst that old are islands of very new...solar heat...bullet train... amazing roads...buildings with unique architecture. And the forest of highrise buildings going up...up...up. In China the crane (bird) stands for longevity but today it seems to mean future as they are thousands cranes (the structure) creating the new China. So many we met are hoping and looking forward to that better future. And as in all the countries we've traveled to...their crown of jewels are the people: helpful, happy, hopeful, curious, caring and so friendly to us...and the shear number of people there is hard to grasp. China may be full of walls around cities & homes, but they sure opened a warm & welcoming door for us and I'm so glad we entered!!!
This had been our hardest trip...language barrier, cold...our quick exit...but mostly seeing people in such desperate need of water, heat, education & mostly acceptance. I felt I had so little to offer and what I did was but a drop in a bucket that seemed to have holes in it. Their own determination to improve was the brightest beam of hope and witnessing that was what inspired me to do whatever I could. I won't forget the joy on the faces of the old & the love the children showered on me. I loved our team and felt each gave their all so we had accomplished the most we could.
China itself was a wonder...acient like I'd never seen or felt...the Great Wall, the Terra Cotta Warriors, the tombs, the Stone Forest. When we speak of old we say hundreds, they say thousands. And yet amidst that old are islands of very new...solar heat...bullet train... amazing roads...buildings with unique architecture. And the forest of highrise buildings going up...up...up. In China the crane (bird) stands for longevity but today it seems to mean future as they are thousands cranes (the structure) creating the new China. So many we met are hoping and looking forward to that better future. And as in all the countries we've traveled to...their crown of jewels are the people: helpful, happy, hopeful, curious, caring and so friendly to us...and the shear number of people there is hard to grasp. China may be full of walls around cities & homes, but they sure opened a warm & welcoming door for us and I'm so glad we entered!!!
21 and a quick return
Replanting Chinese Style
Chinese seem to do everything in huge numbers...it's amazing how many trees have been planted...in every nook & cranny...on the roadsides, in the medians, all around the factories, up & down the mountains. Why don't we do that in USA??
Forbidden City
26 emperors enjoyed a huge chuck of land in the middle of Beijing filled with ornate pagodas & massive halls and a beautiful garden. My favorite was the marble boat! Those emperors sure knew how to pamper themselves! It was by far the most populated tourist site we've been to with about 90% Chinese...but also we saw more Caucasians than we've seen anywhere else!
Lama Temple
The smell of insense was everywhere as many worshipers were waving handfulls of burning sticks turning to face each of the directions & then knelling in front of the Buddha. There were many side halls with graphic statues of hell, ancestors & more Buddhas. One Buddha was built in 1748 from one single trunk of white sandal wood and stood 26 meters tall!
Fresh Fish
So they we were, eating at a fairly nice Beijing restaurant...Rog spotted a fish net leaning on a tree right in front of the window & wondered why it would be there. Several nice cars were driving by...and then a bike with a tank stopped in front of the window. A man in a suit who appeared to be the restaurant owner, went outside and soon a basket of fish had been pulled from the tank, weighed & then seemed to disappear. After we finished eating, we went outside & looked around. Mystery solved. The fish had been dumped into a fish tank that was right under the restaurant... now we knew what the net was for and how they kept fish fresh! So here in the most modern of Chinese cities...we saw what we saw in the most ancient of Chinese cities!!
Mom
A surreal feeling surrounded me as I read the email in the lobby of a Beijing hotel about my Mom dying. I knew I had to go home. I said a quick prayer that I could get home quickly and withing 20 minutes we were getting into a cab that was litterally on the sidewalk in front of our hotel. Somehow the cab driver must have known we were in a hurry--though we had no way of telling him...he drove like a maniac passing everything on the right, left & even on the margin. Rog asked me to quit praying so hard. Two hours later, we were on a plane...thanks to the counter clerk & strangers that let us use their phones & computers. After we settled in...I started to chuckle as I realized that Mom had always been one to just hang up on you when she was done with a phone conversation...never wasting time to say good bye...and once again...she didn't say goodbye. Before I left for China I had teased her saying "Don't you die while I'm in China." She had answered, "Don't you make me promise you that!" And I knew, she was eager to get to Heaven and I would not have wanted her to wait any longer than she had already waited. Just 30 hours after I read the email...we were home.
Chinese seem to do everything in huge numbers...it's amazing how many trees have been planted...in every nook & cranny...on the roadsides, in the medians, all around the factories, up & down the mountains. Why don't we do that in USA??
Forbidden City
26 emperors enjoyed a huge chuck of land in the middle of Beijing filled with ornate pagodas & massive halls and a beautiful garden. My favorite was the marble boat! Those emperors sure knew how to pamper themselves! It was by far the most populated tourist site we've been to with about 90% Chinese...but also we saw more Caucasians than we've seen anywhere else!
Lama Temple
The smell of insense was everywhere as many worshipers were waving handfulls of burning sticks turning to face each of the directions & then knelling in front of the Buddha. There were many side halls with graphic statues of hell, ancestors & more Buddhas. One Buddha was built in 1748 from one single trunk of white sandal wood and stood 26 meters tall!
Fresh Fish
So they we were, eating at a fairly nice Beijing restaurant...Rog spotted a fish net leaning on a tree right in front of the window & wondered why it would be there. Several nice cars were driving by...and then a bike with a tank stopped in front of the window. A man in a suit who appeared to be the restaurant owner, went outside and soon a basket of fish had been pulled from the tank, weighed & then seemed to disappear. After we finished eating, we went outside & looked around. Mystery solved. The fish had been dumped into a fish tank that was right under the restaurant... now we knew what the net was for and how they kept fish fresh! So here in the most modern of Chinese cities...we saw what we saw in the most ancient of Chinese cities!!
Mom
A surreal feeling surrounded me as I read the email in the lobby of a Beijing hotel about my Mom dying. I knew I had to go home. I said a quick prayer that I could get home quickly and withing 20 minutes we were getting into a cab that was litterally on the sidewalk in front of our hotel. Somehow the cab driver must have known we were in a hurry--though we had no way of telling him...he drove like a maniac passing everything on the right, left & even on the margin. Rog asked me to quit praying so hard. Two hours later, we were on a plane...thanks to the counter clerk & strangers that let us use their phones & computers. After we settled in...I started to chuckle as I realized that Mom had always been one to just hang up on you when she was done with a phone conversation...never wasting time to say good bye...and once again...she didn't say goodbye. Before I left for China I had teased her saying "Don't you die while I'm in China." She had answered, "Don't you make me promise you that!" And I knew, she was eager to get to Heaven and I would not have wanted her to wait any longer than she had already waited. Just 30 hours after I read the email...we were home.
Friday, March 16, 2012
20
Hi from Beijing,
Just heard my mom fell and broke her hip...came out of surgery ok...but sure is hard not to be with her. Thank goodness my family is tight and have kept me informed and are surrounding her with their love & support...and giving her mine! Also just heard a tornado hit Dexter so anxious to find out more... Here in Beijing, the weather is cool, dry with smog in the city but once we left the city...beautiful blue skies...and the spectacular Great Wall!
Great Wall
Until you have seen the depth of Grand Canyon...you don't know deep and until you have seen the Great Wall...you don't know long. After climbing up to get on the wall, you look out and as far as you can see in both directions...there is more wall. And all around the wall, vast mountains fill the view...we were so fortunate to walk the wall on a day that the sun shone in a sparkling, clear sky...and in a place where we only saw about 30 other tourist!! We passed up the usual tourist site, went the extra 1 1/2 hour drive to reach Jingshanling. There many sections of the wall were the original bricks...difficult to walk but wondrous. We couldn't help but stop often just to soak up the view and take yet another picture...and rest as we had to climb up & down countless steps...some of which were crumbling...some gigantic. The guard towers crowned the crest of the mountains and some were two stories high giving you an awesome view...and another picture. A bit of history: the first section of the wall was built in 221 BC and the last section about 2000 years later. Small sections were built at various times and finally all connected making it 5000km long. Rebuilding actually started around 1600 AD. In spite of all the effort, expense & time...it failed to keep out the Mongols under Genghis Khan.
Attacking Mongols
We too, were attacked by the mongols! As we made our way up to the wall, two older ladies joined us, telling us they were local mongolians farmers and started asking us questions like: where are you from? (America is wonderful) how many children? (You are so fortunate and rich) how many grandchildren (You like us...we grandmas too) how old are you? (you look only 40...later others would say we looked only 30)...etc. Finally, we told them we didn't want a guide...No No they said, we are not guides...but kept pointing out this & that. When we got firm...then they tried selling us souvenirs from their backpacks...then drinks. After we said firming (but with a smile) MaoMao (No No)...they finally left. But others--all saying they were local mongolian farmers & asking the same questions & selling the same ware-- were waiting at several of the guard towers. We did feel bad that they had climbed so far...and there were so few to buy from them but...
Climbing Down
As is so often the case in China, the way up was very showy...but the way down was a dirt trail that was hardly marked & littered.
Tunnels
Almost as incredible as building the Great Wall, was building the tunnel right under the same mountains. By car, it took us about 5 minutes to go through.
Man on Train to Beijing (by Roger)
We were delivered to the railway station by the owner of our hotel to catch the 9:48 train that would pass through Ping Yao on its way to Beijing. As we were searching for our spot on the sleeper to Beijing, a man asked if we needed some help. He spoke English very well and seemed truly interested in speaking with us. We found out that he was retired from working in public health and was traveling with some of his family to Beijing. His berth was near to ours so when we woke up the next morning he sat near us and asked many questions. He was especially interested in Native Americans and what their lives were like now in America. In China their are many ethnic groups and the country seems to celebrate the differences in culture that together make up the country. He also was interested in the leprosy villages that we visited. He had taught himself to speak Esperanto (an international language that was intended to be used the way that English is now used as an international business language). He asked about the prices of many things in the U.S.-Cars, houses, food, etc. He thought that housing was too expensive in China and Mcdonald's food is not healthy and also too expensive. He was very grateful to Americans who had helped him when he got lost while in Atlanta, Ga. while attending Emery University. The people made sure he found his way back even though they had to go far out of their way to help him. When he returned to China he wrote an article about his experience and sent it to the radio station. To his surprise, they broadcast it. He was sincerely grateful and was anxious to help us in return for the help that he had received.
He also spoke about the drought in China and how the north of China is also too dry (almost no snow this year). He told us about Buddhist monks that are recruited to "work" as monks but only play the role for 8 hours a day, then spend the rest of their time in secular life (while visiting the Lama Temple in Beijing we saw monks slipping cell phones from under their robes-maybe a little distraction from their prayers?)
Christian on train to Beijing (by Roger)
A young Chinese girl in the berth below Jane told us that she is a Christian and then she started explaining Christian beliefs to our new friend. Her bag was printed in Chinese with the name of her business, Gospel Photography. She told us that it is now possible to buy a Bible in China. Apparently it is becoming more acceptable to express individual beliefs but not always advisable!
Just heard my mom fell and broke her hip...came out of surgery ok...but sure is hard not to be with her. Thank goodness my family is tight and have kept me informed and are surrounding her with their love & support...and giving her mine! Also just heard a tornado hit Dexter so anxious to find out more... Here in Beijing, the weather is cool, dry with smog in the city but once we left the city...beautiful blue skies...and the spectacular Great Wall!
Great Wall
Until you have seen the depth of Grand Canyon...you don't know deep and until you have seen the Great Wall...you don't know long. After climbing up to get on the wall, you look out and as far as you can see in both directions...there is more wall. And all around the wall, vast mountains fill the view...we were so fortunate to walk the wall on a day that the sun shone in a sparkling, clear sky...and in a place where we only saw about 30 other tourist!! We passed up the usual tourist site, went the extra 1 1/2 hour drive to reach Jingshanling. There many sections of the wall were the original bricks...difficult to walk but wondrous. We couldn't help but stop often just to soak up the view and take yet another picture...and rest as we had to climb up & down countless steps...some of which were crumbling...some gigantic. The guard towers crowned the crest of the mountains and some were two stories high giving you an awesome view...and another picture. A bit of history: the first section of the wall was built in 221 BC and the last section about 2000 years later. Small sections were built at various times and finally all connected making it 5000km long. Rebuilding actually started around 1600 AD. In spite of all the effort, expense & time...it failed to keep out the Mongols under Genghis Khan.
Attacking Mongols
We too, were attacked by the mongols! As we made our way up to the wall, two older ladies joined us, telling us they were local mongolians farmers and started asking us questions like: where are you from? (America is wonderful) how many children? (You are so fortunate and rich) how many grandchildren (You like us...we grandmas too) how old are you? (you look only 40...later others would say we looked only 30)...etc. Finally, we told them we didn't want a guide...No No they said, we are not guides...but kept pointing out this & that. When we got firm...then they tried selling us souvenirs from their backpacks...then drinks. After we said firming (but with a smile) MaoMao (No No)...they finally left. But others--all saying they were local mongolian farmers & asking the same questions & selling the same ware-- were waiting at several of the guard towers. We did feel bad that they had climbed so far...and there were so few to buy from them but...
Climbing Down
As is so often the case in China, the way up was very showy...but the way down was a dirt trail that was hardly marked & littered.
Tunnels
Almost as incredible as building the Great Wall, was building the tunnel right under the same mountains. By car, it took us about 5 minutes to go through.
Man on Train to Beijing (by Roger)
We were delivered to the railway station by the owner of our hotel to catch the 9:48 train that would pass through Ping Yao on its way to Beijing. As we were searching for our spot on the sleeper to Beijing, a man asked if we needed some help. He spoke English very well and seemed truly interested in speaking with us. We found out that he was retired from working in public health and was traveling with some of his family to Beijing. His berth was near to ours so when we woke up the next morning he sat near us and asked many questions. He was especially interested in Native Americans and what their lives were like now in America. In China their are many ethnic groups and the country seems to celebrate the differences in culture that together make up the country. He also was interested in the leprosy villages that we visited. He had taught himself to speak Esperanto (an international language that was intended to be used the way that English is now used as an international business language). He asked about the prices of many things in the U.S.-Cars, houses, food, etc. He thought that housing was too expensive in China and Mcdonald's food is not healthy and also too expensive. He was very grateful to Americans who had helped him when he got lost while in Atlanta, Ga. while attending Emery University. The people made sure he found his way back even though they had to go far out of their way to help him. When he returned to China he wrote an article about his experience and sent it to the radio station. To his surprise, they broadcast it. He was sincerely grateful and was anxious to help us in return for the help that he had received.
He also spoke about the drought in China and how the north of China is also too dry (almost no snow this year). He told us about Buddhist monks that are recruited to "work" as monks but only play the role for 8 hours a day, then spend the rest of their time in secular life (while visiting the Lama Temple in Beijing we saw monks slipping cell phones from under their robes-maybe a little distraction from their prayers?)
Christian on train to Beijing (by Roger)
A young Chinese girl in the berth below Jane told us that she is a Christian and then she started explaining Christian beliefs to our new friend. Her bag was printed in Chinese with the name of her business, Gospel Photography. She told us that it is now possible to buy a Bible in China. Apparently it is becoming more acceptable to express individual beliefs but not always advisable!
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
19
Hi from Pingyao
Last day here so we're making plans for next stops. We'll be heading out on the night train to Beijing later today, stay there 4 days, then to Sanya, Hainan for 5 days and finally to HongKong to visit my college roomie before heading home March 29. Anyways, that's the plan. Hope your plans are going well & all is good. Here's the latest with us:
Wang Family Castle
Huge, sprawling castle that housed the Wang family & servants for generations...endless archways led to unique courtyards with bedrooms all around...each area a bit higher on the mountains... with a long bridge spanning a valley...finally reaching the top where a lovely pagoda overlooked the whole castle setting. Several years ago, many of the family members who had moved away, came back for a reunion...during which as a family they decided to turn their castle into a museum to retain the virtue of their family. Most of the original furniture remains as well as numerous family photos. Two rooms were filled with family trees...one of which showed 21 generations! It also houses several art collections. Couldn't count how many rooms...and almost couldn't find our way out!
Underground Weapon Storage
After entering what appeared to be a farmer's home that was built into the mountain (just like many others in the area)...we were led into a secret, dark tunnel with only clay walls that went down about 9 meters in a maze about 250 meter long that included several traps, ambush dug outs, bamboo communication sites...all built to hid weapons. A guide was required--how else could we find our way out?? It was built over 1000 yrs ago...and since no enemy army ever came near...it was never needed but makes an interesting tourist site today!
Shuanglin Temple
Another temple filled with images of Buddha, gods and also ancestors. Can you imagine that in 1000 yrs, people would pray & light incense in front of a statue of you?? Most of these types of temples were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution so one so well preserved is rare. This one also had vivid paintings as well as the 50 armed goddess. We'd biked the 6 km to get there...so we walked through it at a slow pace amazed at how old, dusty (it's forbidden to dust) and detailed each statue was...one room alone had over 100 statues!
Chinese Helper (by Roger)
We rented bicycles and rode around Ping Yao for the day. We left the walled city for awhile to visit an ATM then returned to the old city and followed a celebrating marriage procession through part of the city (a brass band in the back of a truck blaring away while firecrackers were prepared then set off. Close behind the truck was the veiled bride and the groom (chauffeured in a fancy car and smooching in the back seat). Then we had a flat tire on the far side of town. We could walk it back but thought that maybe we might find someone with a tire pump...soon a woman with a friendly smile directed us to a courtyard where we found no one but found out later that it was the home of the tire repairman. As we were leaving the courtyard another man just outside the gate indicated that we should wait as he also needed tire repair on his motorbike taxi. He made several calls from his cell phone while we waited for about half an hour, then a man rode up on an old bicycle with a couple of bicycle tires hanging over his shoulder. The man who had called him pointed to our bicycle and he immediately started to make repairs on it, soon he had the tube patched and refilled with air. He said we owed 5 yuan (less than a dollar). We were glad to pay him double as a tip and off we went. Once again we we felt grateful for the kindness and consideration given us by the local people as we negotiate China without the benefit of knowing their language.
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire (by Roger)
A favorite snack here is roasted nuts. Walnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, etc. are just better when roasted! Many ingenious devices are used to keep the nuts moving as they are slowly roasted over charcoal. Most look like something I might put together using materials out of a scrap heap using little more than a welder. It made me think about the song that we sing at Christmas time. Chestnuts roasting on an open fire. Jack Frost nipping at your nose. Yuletide carols being sung by a choir, and tots dressed up like eskimos. Everybody knows- some turkey and some mistletoe helps to make the season bright. Tiny tots with their eyes all aglow will find it hard to sleep tonight. You probably know the rest better that I...but now we have seen tiny tots dressed up like eskimos (in the mountains) and also tasted roasted chestnuts. It seems strange that they have these elements of Christmas but most have no knowledge of Christian beliefs.
View from our Breakfast Table
While eating our boiled eggs & white bread (not toasted)...what is called a Western Breakfast...a vendor on a bicycle with a tank & wagon behind pulled up right next to the window beside us. Our hotel lady ran out and soon the vendor pulled out a live fish from his tank, our hotel lady nodded...and before our eyes, that fish was gutted & scaled in a matter of minutes. Somebody--not us--was going to have a fresh fish meal...& the local dog licked up what was left on the pavement. The next morning as we ate breakfast, a mountain of huge coal chucks was dumped right in the same spot. Not exactly Breakfast at Tiffany's...but breakfast in China.
Lost in the City
We rode with a young Chinese girl in a taxi so of course, learned a bit more about China. She had graduated from a University & said she could not find a good job in China...which is a common problem. She said maybe if you go to a big city you can get a job...and many do leave home promising to send money home...but soon find themselves buying fashionable clothes and other things exciting they could not find in their rural villages...and soon have no money to send home. She said, "They get lost in the big cities."
Plenty of Help
Walking by a Pingyao store front, we heard much laughter & chatter coming from within. In checking it out, we discovered the small store...about the size of a one car garage...had 30 clerks ready to serve...even though they had only two customers & from the looks of the almost empty streets, they weren't getting many more. Bad for business...but great for the clerks who were having so much fun together!!
Balloon Lady
One of the things I love most is spending a bit of time with little ones...so I always have a pocket full of balloons & whenever I see a little one...I stop & give him/her a balloon. Their smiles, puzzled looks or shy "xiexie" (thank you) always tickles me.
Last day here so we're making plans for next stops. We'll be heading out on the night train to Beijing later today, stay there 4 days, then to Sanya, Hainan for 5 days and finally to HongKong to visit my college roomie before heading home March 29. Anyways, that's the plan. Hope your plans are going well & all is good. Here's the latest with us:
Wang Family Castle
Huge, sprawling castle that housed the Wang family & servants for generations...endless archways led to unique courtyards with bedrooms all around...each area a bit higher on the mountains... with a long bridge spanning a valley...finally reaching the top where a lovely pagoda overlooked the whole castle setting. Several years ago, many of the family members who had moved away, came back for a reunion...during which as a family they decided to turn their castle into a museum to retain the virtue of their family. Most of the original furniture remains as well as numerous family photos. Two rooms were filled with family trees...one of which showed 21 generations! It also houses several art collections. Couldn't count how many rooms...and almost couldn't find our way out!
Underground Weapon Storage
After entering what appeared to be a farmer's home that was built into the mountain (just like many others in the area)...we were led into a secret, dark tunnel with only clay walls that went down about 9 meters in a maze about 250 meter long that included several traps, ambush dug outs, bamboo communication sites...all built to hid weapons. A guide was required--how else could we find our way out?? It was built over 1000 yrs ago...and since no enemy army ever came near...it was never needed but makes an interesting tourist site today!
Shuanglin Temple
Another temple filled with images of Buddha, gods and also ancestors. Can you imagine that in 1000 yrs, people would pray & light incense in front of a statue of you?? Most of these types of temples were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution so one so well preserved is rare. This one also had vivid paintings as well as the 50 armed goddess. We'd biked the 6 km to get there...so we walked through it at a slow pace amazed at how old, dusty (it's forbidden to dust) and detailed each statue was...one room alone had over 100 statues!
Chinese Helper (by Roger)
We rented bicycles and rode around Ping Yao for the day. We left the walled city for awhile to visit an ATM then returned to the old city and followed a celebrating marriage procession through part of the city (a brass band in the back of a truck blaring away while firecrackers were prepared then set off. Close behind the truck was the veiled bride and the groom (chauffeured in a fancy car and smooching in the back seat). Then we had a flat tire on the far side of town. We could walk it back but thought that maybe we might find someone with a tire pump...soon a woman with a friendly smile directed us to a courtyard where we found no one but found out later that it was the home of the tire repairman. As we were leaving the courtyard another man just outside the gate indicated that we should wait as he also needed tire repair on his motorbike taxi. He made several calls from his cell phone while we waited for about half an hour, then a man rode up on an old bicycle with a couple of bicycle tires hanging over his shoulder. The man who had called him pointed to our bicycle and he immediately started to make repairs on it, soon he had the tube patched and refilled with air. He said we owed 5 yuan (less than a dollar). We were glad to pay him double as a tip and off we went. Once again we we felt grateful for the kindness and consideration given us by the local people as we negotiate China without the benefit of knowing their language.
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire (by Roger)
A favorite snack here is roasted nuts. Walnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, etc. are just better when roasted! Many ingenious devices are used to keep the nuts moving as they are slowly roasted over charcoal. Most look like something I might put together using materials out of a scrap heap using little more than a welder. It made me think about the song that we sing at Christmas time. Chestnuts roasting on an open fire. Jack Frost nipping at your nose. Yuletide carols being sung by a choir, and tots dressed up like eskimos. Everybody knows- some turkey and some mistletoe helps to make the season bright. Tiny tots with their eyes all aglow will find it hard to sleep tonight. You probably know the rest better that I...but now we have seen tiny tots dressed up like eskimos (in the mountains) and also tasted roasted chestnuts. It seems strange that they have these elements of Christmas but most have no knowledge of Christian beliefs.
View from our Breakfast Table
While eating our boiled eggs & white bread (not toasted)...what is called a Western Breakfast...a vendor on a bicycle with a tank & wagon behind pulled up right next to the window beside us. Our hotel lady ran out and soon the vendor pulled out a live fish from his tank, our hotel lady nodded...and before our eyes, that fish was gutted & scaled in a matter of minutes. Somebody--not us--was going to have a fresh fish meal...& the local dog licked up what was left on the pavement. The next morning as we ate breakfast, a mountain of huge coal chucks was dumped right in the same spot. Not exactly Breakfast at Tiffany's...but breakfast in China.
Lost in the City
We rode with a young Chinese girl in a taxi so of course, learned a bit more about China. She had graduated from a University & said she could not find a good job in China...which is a common problem. She said maybe if you go to a big city you can get a job...and many do leave home promising to send money home...but soon find themselves buying fashionable clothes and other things exciting they could not find in their rural villages...and soon have no money to send home. She said, "They get lost in the big cities."
Plenty of Help
Walking by a Pingyao store front, we heard much laughter & chatter coming from within. In checking it out, we discovered the small store...about the size of a one car garage...had 30 clerks ready to serve...even though they had only two customers & from the looks of the almost empty streets, they weren't getting many more. Bad for business...but great for the clerks who were having so much fun together!!
Balloon Lady
One of the things I love most is spending a bit of time with little ones...so I always have a pocket full of balloons & whenever I see a little one...I stop & give him/her a balloon. Their smiles, puzzled looks or shy "xiexie" (thank you) always tickles me.
Sunday, March 11, 2012
18
Coolest Museum
We tried again to get to Emperor Jing Di burial site and succeeded this time. We had spent a whole day trying to get there so we were very happy to finally make it. Very few visitors had found their way so no crowds at all. Also the neatest thing about it was how they excavated the burial pits and built a museum over the top. Clear plastic flooring allows you to look down into the pit as you walk above. There were hundreds and hundreds of miniature soldiers, pigs, chickens, horses, cows, chariots, and more. The detail is amazing...even tiny quivers full of tiny arrows of the soldiers backs. Even more amazing is the fact that each of these little soldiers was dressed in beautiful silk clothing and held all the necessary equipment of the day.
Jing Di became emperor in 157 B.C. and ruled for 17 years. He ruled using the Wu Wei philosophy: Do nothing & nothing will not be done. He must of done something cause during that time he unified much of China and his rule is considered to be the pinnacle of Han Dynasty. Today over 90% of Chinese are descended from the Han people. Only a small part of the burial site is excavated...apparently an entire miniature city is buried here to serve the emperor in his next life! A special presentation at the museum included a high quality hologram that made all of the characters come alive for us as miniature chickens pecked at the ground, miniature women danced in fancy costumes and flames soared from tiny fires.
Historical Museum
We wandered among 5000+ year old artifacts and examined the 200,000 yr old skull in the Xi'an Historical Museum. Since it was the custom to bury most everything you owned to use in your next life, there is an amazing amount of items that have been excavated in Xi'an as the city dates back about 6000 years. Piles of gold coins, elaborate hair pins & buttons, decorative pots & dishes...even a cooking grill that looked just like our old hibachi!! I sincerely doubt anyone will ever look at anything we have in 5000+ years???
Train to PingYao
Moving on...we hopped a sleeper train headed for PingYao. Actually hopped is not the right word as we were herded through several gates and waiting room so it was more like pushed onto a sleeper train among thousands of others...all Chinese one of which grabbed my suitcase & carried it down two flights of steps right to the car we got on. After several people led us to our bunks...we discovered three of our bunk mates spoke English! They sat on the edge of their beds eagerly asking and answering questions. The first question was "Do you know Michaels?"--she was thrilled we had as she sold her glass candle holders to them. She asked if it was like Walmart? They told us they were proud of China's progress but felt the 60% of the population that lived in the rural area were still really poor and without much medical care. (Premier Wen Jiabao recently report wages were up 22%, Health coverage was 95% & 60 million less are paying income taxes--though he did note that was mainly in the urban area.) They also felt that there were still many challenges facing China due to the large & growing population. They said housing was very expensive & that most of the tall condo buildings going up were by private investors & empty--confirming what we heard from others. Because of housing expense, a man needed to have a house before anyone would marry him so usually, his parents bought him a house...after paying for his university...and then the parents took almost total care of the grandchildren. (No wonder most support the one child policy!) They were very interested in how children were cared for in USA. After they asked how long we'd been married, they asked a strange question..do you go for years without talking. When we said no...they looked very surprised & said, "Never???" That led to a discussion about divorce. They heard that in USA people get divorce quickly over small fights. They informed us that now 30% of Chinese marriages end in divorce mostly due to quarrel over who will do the house work...& had risen that high since the 1980's when the one child policy kids started marrying. About then, someone looked at their watch...it was 9:55 & lights were out at 10 so we all quickly jumped in our bunks--Rog & I both had middle bunk with one above & one below...and soon were rocked asleep...until 6 a.m. when got off the train and we stepped back in time in the ancient 2700 year old city of PingYao.
PingYao
This city is like a relic--almost fossilized. It seems these people changed nothing--barely maintaining most everything--and now are famous for that! The wall that surrounds it was originally built in 700 BC. & the catapult & many canons were still there. The whole city is like walking through a museum...and within the museum are a multitude of smaller museum: first armed escort service site (pre-police) & jail that had displayed torture items complete with vivid drawings of use, first draft bank (ancestor to all modern Chinese banks), most preserved City God Temple, only Taoist Temple open to public (with detailed & grotesque torture scenes depicting hell & filled with demons--no loving god there!!), Confucius temple where he taught & his students took exams & largest collection of his writings as most were destroyed by some Emperor's orders....while there one of his disciples came up to me & asked where I was from in very broken English & when I told him, he gestured an up thumb & said Obama & a down thumb saying Bush...guess that was another Confucius saying!
The View from Above
We walked much of the wall which gave us a bird's eye view of the city...we peered down on the many courtyards filled with laundry, dogs, children, drying corn, piles of bricks rescued from falling buildings, wood, etc. We read that the same families have lived in the same years for generations enjoying the same courtyard neighbors for generations. It was so interesting to see what was behind those many old wooden doors we'd seen as we walked the streets and get a small peek at their lives.
Biking
We rented bikes & went outside the walls...and I know by the looks on their faces, that many of the people who saw us were thinking...yikes, some tourist escaped the wall!
Wedding Parade
As we biked along, we heard loud music & firecrackers so we followed it to the source which took us under bright red blow up arches...to a band playing in the back of a truck with a flower decorated car behind it...the bride & groom! The truck led the newly weds up & down the streets playing jolly music & lighting firecrackers! Maybe it'll catch on in USA!!
We tried again to get to Emperor Jing Di burial site and succeeded this time. We had spent a whole day trying to get there so we were very happy to finally make it. Very few visitors had found their way so no crowds at all. Also the neatest thing about it was how they excavated the burial pits and built a museum over the top. Clear plastic flooring allows you to look down into the pit as you walk above. There were hundreds and hundreds of miniature soldiers, pigs, chickens, horses, cows, chariots, and more. The detail is amazing...even tiny quivers full of tiny arrows of the soldiers backs. Even more amazing is the fact that each of these little soldiers was dressed in beautiful silk clothing and held all the necessary equipment of the day.
Jing Di became emperor in 157 B.C. and ruled for 17 years. He ruled using the Wu Wei philosophy: Do nothing & nothing will not be done. He must of done something cause during that time he unified much of China and his rule is considered to be the pinnacle of Han Dynasty. Today over 90% of Chinese are descended from the Han people. Only a small part of the burial site is excavated...apparently an entire miniature city is buried here to serve the emperor in his next life! A special presentation at the museum included a high quality hologram that made all of the characters come alive for us as miniature chickens pecked at the ground, miniature women danced in fancy costumes and flames soared from tiny fires.
Historical Museum
We wandered among 5000+ year old artifacts and examined the 200,000 yr old skull in the Xi'an Historical Museum. Since it was the custom to bury most everything you owned to use in your next life, there is an amazing amount of items that have been excavated in Xi'an as the city dates back about 6000 years. Piles of gold coins, elaborate hair pins & buttons, decorative pots & dishes...even a cooking grill that looked just like our old hibachi!! I sincerely doubt anyone will ever look at anything we have in 5000+ years???
Train to PingYao
Moving on...we hopped a sleeper train headed for PingYao. Actually hopped is not the right word as we were herded through several gates and waiting room so it was more like pushed onto a sleeper train among thousands of others...all Chinese one of which grabbed my suitcase & carried it down two flights of steps right to the car we got on. After several people led us to our bunks...we discovered three of our bunk mates spoke English! They sat on the edge of their beds eagerly asking and answering questions. The first question was "Do you know Michaels?"--she was thrilled we had as she sold her glass candle holders to them. She asked if it was like Walmart? They told us they were proud of China's progress but felt the 60% of the population that lived in the rural area were still really poor and without much medical care. (Premier Wen Jiabao recently report wages were up 22%, Health coverage was 95% & 60 million less are paying income taxes--though he did note that was mainly in the urban area.) They also felt that there were still many challenges facing China due to the large & growing population. They said housing was very expensive & that most of the tall condo buildings going up were by private investors & empty--confirming what we heard from others. Because of housing expense, a man needed to have a house before anyone would marry him so usually, his parents bought him a house...after paying for his university...and then the parents took almost total care of the grandchildren. (No wonder most support the one child policy!) They were very interested in how children were cared for in USA. After they asked how long we'd been married, they asked a strange question..do you go for years without talking. When we said no...they looked very surprised & said, "Never???" That led to a discussion about divorce. They heard that in USA people get divorce quickly over small fights. They informed us that now 30% of Chinese marriages end in divorce mostly due to quarrel over who will do the house work...& had risen that high since the 1980's when the one child policy kids started marrying. About then, someone looked at their watch...it was 9:55 & lights were out at 10 so we all quickly jumped in our bunks--Rog & I both had middle bunk with one above & one below...and soon were rocked asleep...until 6 a.m. when got off the train and we stepped back in time in the ancient 2700 year old city of PingYao.
PingYao
This city is like a relic--almost fossilized. It seems these people changed nothing--barely maintaining most everything--and now are famous for that! The wall that surrounds it was originally built in 700 BC. & the catapult & many canons were still there. The whole city is like walking through a museum...and within the museum are a multitude of smaller museum: first armed escort service site (pre-police) & jail that had displayed torture items complete with vivid drawings of use, first draft bank (ancestor to all modern Chinese banks), most preserved City God Temple, only Taoist Temple open to public (with detailed & grotesque torture scenes depicting hell & filled with demons--no loving god there!!), Confucius temple where he taught & his students took exams & largest collection of his writings as most were destroyed by some Emperor's orders....while there one of his disciples came up to me & asked where I was from in very broken English & when I told him, he gestured an up thumb & said Obama & a down thumb saying Bush...guess that was another Confucius saying!
The View from Above
We walked much of the wall which gave us a bird's eye view of the city...we peered down on the many courtyards filled with laundry, dogs, children, drying corn, piles of bricks rescued from falling buildings, wood, etc. We read that the same families have lived in the same years for generations enjoying the same courtyard neighbors for generations. It was so interesting to see what was behind those many old wooden doors we'd seen as we walked the streets and get a small peek at their lives.
Biking
We rented bikes & went outside the walls...and I know by the looks on their faces, that many of the people who saw us were thinking...yikes, some tourist escaped the wall!
Wedding Parade
As we biked along, we heard loud music & firecrackers so we followed it to the source which took us under bright red blow up arches...to a band playing in the back of a truck with a flower decorated car behind it...the bride & groom! The truck led the newly weds up & down the streets playing jolly music & lighting firecrackers! Maybe it'll catch on in USA!!
Thursday, March 8, 2012
17
Hi from Xi'an,
It's been a few days since we were able to find a computer we could use...actually to find anything we were looking for!! Without anyone showing us around, we find ourselves walking in circles lots & laughing at where we end up sometimes...but we keep reminding each other to Enjoy The Journey... & we have been helped by so many kind young Chinese who tell us it's their privilege to help us! Here's a bit about that...
Saying goodbye to The Three Amigos
Last night in Kunming, Li & Yuan took us to dinner where we could eat pizza. It was fun to see them eat with a fork! They both again said they hope to come to America and work our farm for free. Probably could make lots of $$ selling all the vege's they could grow on our farm!! Then the next morning, Meizi with her arms linked around us, walked as far as she could in the airport & then threw kisses as we went through security. We felt so coddled by them all & so lucky to have spent time with them.
Finding Help
Since hardly anything is in English, we often find ourselves totally without a clue where to go but seems like that has been a benefit as we have been helped by so many young Chinese. Like Jenny, who happened to sit next to us on the plane to Xi'an who was headed to the same area our hotel was at & rode with us on the bus from the airport to town & then insisted on walking us right to our hotel door. She said that she had texted her boyfriend that she envied our relationship & hoped she would have the same with him. Then she called him & had both of us talk to him. And then the subway attendant who helped us get the right ticket, took both us of by the arm & waited with us until we got on the subway...and another subway attendant that helped us on the right subway & called ahead to the one we got off so there was another attendant waiting to direct us to the bus station we were looking for. He ended up waiting with us for an hour...then said probably the bus wasn't running due to the cold weather so he walked us back to the subway. And another....heard us asking someone else about finding an internet cafe and told us he'd take us to one....he had gone to school in Boston so we chatted as we walked about 4 blocks (out of his way) & then he led us into one we could never have found, talked to the clerk & even started up the computers for us. Now that's what you call "Going out of your way to help someone!!"
Xi'an
Huge walled ancient city where the Silk Road began. We visited the Bell & Drum towers & watched them demonstrate how the towers were used to let people know time of day. Spent a bit of time walking the wall around the city & wandered through the Great Mosque....and riding in one of their little taxi cabs which are motorcycles with a cart behind. But the most fascinating....
Terra Cotta
Fascinating...awesome....amazing...can't really describe seeing the Terra Cotta warriors. I actually got goosebumps as I stood in awe of the numbers, the size, the detail, the wonder of how something so astounding could have been built so very long ago...about 2200 yrs ago...buried and then not discovered until a farmer (whom we met) was digging in 1979.
It's been a few days since we were able to find a computer we could use...actually to find anything we were looking for!! Without anyone showing us around, we find ourselves walking in circles lots & laughing at where we end up sometimes...but we keep reminding each other to Enjoy The Journey... & we have been helped by so many kind young Chinese who tell us it's their privilege to help us! Here's a bit about that...
Saying goodbye to The Three Amigos
Last night in Kunming, Li & Yuan took us to dinner where we could eat pizza. It was fun to see them eat with a fork! They both again said they hope to come to America and work our farm for free. Probably could make lots of $$ selling all the vege's they could grow on our farm!! Then the next morning, Meizi with her arms linked around us, walked as far as she could in the airport & then threw kisses as we went through security. We felt so coddled by them all & so lucky to have spent time with them.
Finding Help
Since hardly anything is in English, we often find ourselves totally without a clue where to go but seems like that has been a benefit as we have been helped by so many young Chinese. Like Jenny, who happened to sit next to us on the plane to Xi'an who was headed to the same area our hotel was at & rode with us on the bus from the airport to town & then insisted on walking us right to our hotel door. She said that she had texted her boyfriend that she envied our relationship & hoped she would have the same with him. Then she called him & had both of us talk to him. And then the subway attendant who helped us get the right ticket, took both us of by the arm & waited with us until we got on the subway...and another subway attendant that helped us on the right subway & called ahead to the one we got off so there was another attendant waiting to direct us to the bus station we were looking for. He ended up waiting with us for an hour...then said probably the bus wasn't running due to the cold weather so he walked us back to the subway. And another....heard us asking someone else about finding an internet cafe and told us he'd take us to one....he had gone to school in Boston so we chatted as we walked about 4 blocks (out of his way) & then he led us into one we could never have found, talked to the clerk & even started up the computers for us. Now that's what you call "Going out of your way to help someone!!"
Xi'an
Huge walled ancient city where the Silk Road began. We visited the Bell & Drum towers & watched them demonstrate how the towers were used to let people know time of day. Spent a bit of time walking the wall around the city & wandered through the Great Mosque....and riding in one of their little taxi cabs which are motorcycles with a cart behind. But the most fascinating....
Terra Cotta
Fascinating...awesome....amazing...can't really describe seeing the Terra Cotta warriors. I actually got goosebumps as I stood in awe of the numbers, the size, the detail, the wonder of how something so astounding could have been built so very long ago...about 2200 yrs ago...buried and then not discovered until a farmer (whom we met) was digging in 1979.
So much is yet to be discovered as they have discovered 50 sites to excavate in a 500 sq kilometer area. Over 700,000 slaves labored for 36 years...and all the artisans who designed it were buried alive so no secrets could be told...all because Emperor Qin Shi Huang could take everything he had in life to his next life. He spent his entire life planning his tomb. Just to give you a bit of what I mean by detail...each warrior is uniquely made to accurately represent each solider in the army...you could see braids in their hair, bumps in soles of shoes, belts, chains, mustache, even eyelashes. When first discovered, they were colored but as soon as oxygen hit them, they color faded. So maybe Emperor Quin Shi Huang started the Qin dynasty, united China, developed their written language, had roads & aqueducts built and a few more things....did he really need such an elaborate tomb????????
Locust Story
Met Maynessa from Australia & she traveled with us to the Terra Cotta's. She confirmed a story with our guide that she'd heard--gives you an idea of how many people in China there are and how well they do as told--it seems the locust were eating up the crops so each Chinese was told they must kill 10 a day...in no time...no locust!
Favorite Treat
By far, the luscious coconut & pineapple rolls that melt in your mouth! Regular bread has been very hard to find...but I have been pretty lucky to find Coke Zero for about 50 cents... though a cold one is near impossible to find! It's also been a treat to eat at McDonald's a few times...prices similar to USA--which considering their wages...pretty expensive for them!
No Central Heat or Soft Beds
Found out why there was no central heat in Yunnan province: Chrm Mao said there could be none south of the Yangzi River. Did he also say no soft beds???? and by each bed there should be a variety of condoms???
Price of Gas
Near as we can figure, it's about $6 a gallon--no wonder taxi's & bus tickets are high!
Solar
So many rooftops we see have solar panels and solar water tanks on top. Go Green China!
Traveling North toward Xi'an
Small towns seem to be better off though still built in a compact area & sometimes walled, less terrace farming more big fields (even saw one tractor), but there are signs of building even in the small towns.
Cranes
Everywhere still. Can't believe how many huge condo like buildings going up. We were told some were by the gov't for low income housing but most are by private investors. Also told no one is living in them cause they are too expensive...and indeed we don't see signs of people in them. But that doesn't seem to stop the building...
Rarity / Grandparents
We are still a rarity & get stared at often. Not only are we caucasians...we have gray hair which we rarely see here. We were told most people with gray hair don't travel & are home babysitting their grandchildren. 90% of grandkids are cared for by their grandparents...who usually only have one grandchild....so Ben, Bek & Jake--sorry we can't keep up with the Chinese!
Mistakes by Children
Heard a interesting remark from a young Chinese: American children seem to make mistakes which are forgiven by their parents. Not so in China. Chinese parents don't forgive their mistakes so easy.
China Newspaper
Last couple days, we have been able to read China News in English!! So interesting to get USA news from a Chinese perspective. It points out that USA must realize the world is now flat & trade is therefore able to go both ways. Also an article about how prejudice many Americans are toward the Chinese...how we often blame them for taking jobs....make jokes about their sing-song language...etc. Seem to support Obama. And loud & clear is their desire for a peaceful world.
Modern vs Old
Seems to be nothing in between. The modern clean cities with so many new uniquely designed buildings & well built roads vs the old villages. The old & very young working in the villages & the middle generation working in the big cities...over 240 million migrant mostly male workers from the villages trying to make money there while their families stay home in the village.
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