We were surprised when Chris said he wanted to take a day off and take us around Okinawa. We told hime he really didn't need to do that but he insisted saying he was a workaholic & we were a good excuse to enjoy a day off. So he picked us up and off we went. First to the Naminoue Shrine, a most sacred Shinto site. Chris carefully instructed us on what we needed to do to enter. At a water stand, we washed our hands, first the left,then right and then took a drink from our cupped hands & spit it out…to rinse our mouth of any thing bad. Next at a sort of altar, we tossed a coin with a hole in it into a bin, bowed twice, then clapped twice, then bowed twice again finally with praying hands, stand silently for a short time. Then we entered the main room where the altar was loaded with golden statues & decorative items. Chris's filled us with many details about the history of the Shinto religion. Next he took us to meet the local Monk, who was his friend. The shrine is being renovated and plagues were going to be displayed with donated names on it. Chris made a donation on our behalf and we were asked to write down our names. Chris told us now a piece of us would always remain in Okinawa. That pulled my heartstrings! Next we bought a taiyaki-a fish shape waffle filled with a sweet bean filling. Actually pretty good! Next we went to the former WWII Japanese Navy Underground headquarters—a massive underground tunnel system. It was eerie walking through the dirt tunnel where thousands of of boulders had been & so many had died. One room was where after realizing they were defeated, many had committed suicide by smashing loaded grenade to their heads. The walls were all pitted leaving the evidence. Losing the battle was a disgrace to their Emperor. Better to die. Our next stop was the Okinawa Peace Memorial & Museum. A massive greens lined with stones where the names of those who died in the Battle of Okinawa were etched. Japanese, American, UK & Irish. Total 200,000+ —15,500 of them American. Okinawa was the only Japanese island to experience a land battle. It was the largest Pacific battle of WW!!. The Japanese had staged the war there to delay the Americans from attacking the mainland. The island was sacrificed for this stall plan. It was left totally burned & destroyed. US fired almost 3 million shells…almost 5 per Okinawa. It was called the Typhoon of Steel. Starvation & malaria took another heavy toll. Looking out the window, you could see the cliffs where many women threw their babies & then jumped themselves. They had been told if they became prisoners, Americans would rape them and eat their babies. This unfortunate island was caught in the middle. And it was here my dad was also caught in the middle. As we walked through the museum & looked at the many pictures and watched the films, I felt the need to see if my dad was in them. What an internal wound this must of left in him. He never ever wanted to tell us anything. I can now see why. The last display was a poem:
Whenever we look at the truth of the Battle of Okinawa, we think there is nothing as brutal, nothing as dishonorable as war. In the face of this traumatic experience, no one will be able to speak out for or idealize war. To be sure it is human beings who start wars. But more than that, isn't it we human beings who must also prevent wars? Since the end of the war, we have anchored all wars, long yearning to create a peaceful island. In our unwavering devotion to this principle, we have paid a heavy price.
There was one more museums Chris wanted us to see…too often overlooked he said. Himeyuri Peace Museum…also called the Nurse Museum. It told the story of the school girls (ages 13-18) who were given a short course in nursing and then sent into the caves to serve the soilders. Many pictures of the girls dressed in nice uniforms in classrooms or playing on campus were in the first sections…then the same girls covered with blood, filthy and stressed inside the caves. The survivors testimony videos told stories of how difficult it was to dig maggots out ears, how heavy the amputated legs were and how hard to watch hysterical wounded men get eliminated. From just this one school, 240 girls went in but only 136 survived. Most were killed when they were forced to leave after defeat was imminent. In the 1980's the survivors of this one school gathered and decided to tell their stories. Gruesome as they were but important for the world to know the horrors of war. They were but one of the many island schools forced to send their students to war.
Japan's constitution now states: "Japan forever renounces war…and the threat of use of force as a means of settling international disputes." Why doesn't every nation renounce war?? Why??
