Our bus to Ouarzazate left at 10 am. We headed SE passing lots of nice home & large apartment buildings for the first 15-20 min which then turned to orchards as we entered the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. Goats & sheep as well as tiny stucco houses started to show up. We followed the almost dry river bed. We drove through many fairly good size villages with small paddies of bright green grasses for goat feed, wheat & vegetable growing. Obviously they were watered as there were many more totally dead paddies. It only rains about 1/2 inch a month for 7 months of the year! As the snow caps of the mountains got closer, our bus took more & tighter S curves. Sheer cliffs and rock-covered slopes surrounded us. And in this barren area—occasionally we'd see a make-shift roadside stand with tables pilled high with geodes! We reached the pass at about 8000 ft, we slowly started back to the dry river bed. Palm trees & patches of bright yellow flowers gradually appeared & then became more frequent. It was a 6 hour trip which included one lunch break. All on excellent roads that they were still improving by adding drain pipes & better shoulders. We were ready to quit riding when we got to Ouarzazate so we scraped our plans to go to a smaller town a bit farther by cab. We checked into a rather old hotel close to the bus station. We quickly found the Medina where kids were riding battery operated toys & the souqs were open. We decided to get a SIM card & scarves for our desert stay. It was so much calmer than the sougs at Marrikesh! Next morning we checked out the city which we learned had about died out until Hollywood discover it in about 2006. Several sets were built—some included original kashbahs. So Hollywood $$ flowed into town. We checked out the sets & a museum filled with props & watched a film that showed clips from movies filmed here: Gladiator, Babel, Prince of Egypt, Joseph, Aladdin, Jewel of the Nile & many bible stories. Who knew we'd see so much of Egypt & Israel in Morocco! It was quite a modern city!
We climbed back on the bus at 4:30 pm for our 6 hour drive to M'Hammid. Shortly outside of Ouarzazate, we saw the world's largest solar array which supplies electricity to about 2 million people. We again followed an almost dry river bank passing through occasional villages with walled kashbahs. We wondered how there can be any way people here can earn a living. We saw several football (soccer) games, men gathered for tea & chatting and the only painted buildings were what appeared to be for kids. As we grew bolder to the snow covered mountains, the river bed had a bit more water & lots of trees were in bloom. Once again we had lots of S curves both up & down the mountains. Around 10 pm, we got to M'Hammid & walked the 300 m to our hotel at the Sahara Services. Our host welcomed.us & soon we were down for the night in a really nice room.
Sunday, April 30, 2023
Update # 21
Morocco here we come! We flew a red eye leaving around 10:20 pm and after a layover in Dakar, we landed in Casablanca at around 7:30 am. We found the hotel that Mariame suggested and she was there to meet us around noon. How exciting to see her again! We'd worked together with All Hands & Hearts in the Philippines in 2015- eight years ago! When she talked about her home country, Morocco and how wonderful it was, she put Morocco on my bucket list. Mariame took us to many of her favorite places including the Hassan II mosque, the walkway by the ocean & the area her grandparents use to live in, now called old town. It was really special to see her face light up when she took us to see the coffee shops she use to go to with her Gpa. We went to a nice restaurant where Mariame ordered the traditional 7 vegetable couscous dish & lemon chicken for us to share. I actually really like it! Before she left, she pointed out the best place to get beignets and then we hugged hoping to meet again someday! We slept well that night after we took a hot shower & got the first layer of dirt off us. Next morning, we followed our Lonely Planet's suggested walk around the city and stopped at the first McD we'd seen since we left home. Unfortunately, they didn't have Diet Coke and the burger didn't taste like the ones at home. After we tired of walking, we hopped on the tram and rode it to the end & then back to the train station where we got our tickets for tomorrow. Finally we went to the beignet shop Mariame showed us & devoured that delicious treat. Back to our hotel, we took hot showers again…another layer of dirt gone. We called Ben & Bek's and talked to them and most of their kids. Nice ending for a great day.
Next morning, we ate our hotel breakfast & headed to the train station to catch our ride to Marrakesh. The first half hour we went through Casablanca's suburb, then about a half hour of flat, spring green crop fields. Slowly the land became more barren & shepherd with their flocks dotted the rolling scrub lands. Small villages were scattered throughout but always in clusters. We saw lots of solar panels. As we got closer to Marrakesh, there were more fields & then more housing. When we arrived, we only had to wait an hour before we meet with our Airbnb host. It was an easy walk from the train station. We were settled in shortly and headed to Djemaa El Fna and the Medina maze. It was a humongous market surrounding a huge square. In the center of the square, crowds gathered around snake charmers, musicians, tarot card readers & sadly monkeys on leashes. The markets were a never ending maze with an overwhelming amount of things for sale. It was a bit too much for us! We stopped to share a sharks sandwich & Rog also got another unknown sandwich which he of course, loved. When we could walk no longer, we spent quite a bit of time trying to find our way out of the maze. We made it back to our airbnb in time to do a bit of wash, call Jake and then finally get to bed.
We got up early the next morning so we could get into Jardin Majorelle. When we got there, we found out you could only purchase tickets online & had to have the phone number associated with your credit card to pay…which we didn't. Luckily, some kind UK girls took my phone, punched in the info and included their credit card number & phone number, then air dropped our tickets to my Books app. We handed them cash to pay for the tickets & a bit more. They saved the day! Since our tickets were for 4:30, we found a place to eat breakfast and then we headed for the Bahia Palace. It was spectacular with intricate hand laid tiles & wood carvings. Next we wandered through more souqs (markets) until at last we found a Saadian Sultan's tomb. Impressive. It was time to head back to Jardin Majorelle and get in line to get in. It was a lush garden filled with plants from all over the world. So many were blooming...even cactus. Roger had an idea which he passed on to Lucas:
#1 Tourist draw in Marrakech is
Jardin Majorelle…
Reminds us of My Farm…
Beautiful, shady, well maintained trails winding through the garden. Benches, cafe, pools with koi, gazebos, fountains, bridges, etc. We each paid equivalent of 900 dalasi to visit and we stayed for just over 1 hour. Limited admission allowed maybe 100 to enter each hour and it was totally sold out all day. Will My Farm someday be the #1 tourist draw in The Gambia? Why not?
What an opportunity that would be to showcase the best environmental practices!
We left there and stopped at the bus station to get our tickets for tomorrow. Another full day of soaking up Marrakesh!
Next morning, we ate our hotel breakfast & headed to the train station to catch our ride to Marrakesh. The first half hour we went through Casablanca's suburb, then about a half hour of flat, spring green crop fields. Slowly the land became more barren & shepherd with their flocks dotted the rolling scrub lands. Small villages were scattered throughout but always in clusters. We saw lots of solar panels. As we got closer to Marrakesh, there were more fields & then more housing. When we arrived, we only had to wait an hour before we meet with our Airbnb host. It was an easy walk from the train station. We were settled in shortly and headed to Djemaa El Fna and the Medina maze. It was a humongous market surrounding a huge square. In the center of the square, crowds gathered around snake charmers, musicians, tarot card readers & sadly monkeys on leashes. The markets were a never ending maze with an overwhelming amount of things for sale. It was a bit too much for us! We stopped to share a sharks sandwich & Rog also got another unknown sandwich which he of course, loved. When we could walk no longer, we spent quite a bit of time trying to find our way out of the maze. We made it back to our airbnb in time to do a bit of wash, call Jake and then finally get to bed.
We got up early the next morning so we could get into Jardin Majorelle. When we got there, we found out you could only purchase tickets online & had to have the phone number associated with your credit card to pay…which we didn't. Luckily, some kind UK girls took my phone, punched in the info and included their credit card number & phone number, then air dropped our tickets to my Books app. We handed them cash to pay for the tickets & a bit more. They saved the day! Since our tickets were for 4:30, we found a place to eat breakfast and then we headed for the Bahia Palace. It was spectacular with intricate hand laid tiles & wood carvings. Next we wandered through more souqs (markets) until at last we found a Saadian Sultan's tomb. Impressive. It was time to head back to Jardin Majorelle and get in line to get in. It was a lush garden filled with plants from all over the world. So many were blooming...even cactus. Roger had an idea which he passed on to Lucas:
#1 Tourist draw in Marrakech is
Jardin Majorelle…
Reminds us of My Farm…
Beautiful, shady, well maintained trails winding through the garden. Benches, cafe, pools with koi, gazebos, fountains, bridges, etc. We each paid equivalent of 900 dalasi to visit and we stayed for just over 1 hour. Limited admission allowed maybe 100 to enter each hour and it was totally sold out all day. Will My Farm someday be the #1 tourist draw in The Gambia? Why not?
What an opportunity that would be to showcase the best environmental practices!
We left there and stopped at the bus station to get our tickets for tomorrow. Another full day of soaking up Marrakesh!
Update # 20
The last few days at MyFarm included lots of paying with some games we made for them, more read aloud, trips to town to get things needed to finish fixing the solar oven and helping in the learning labs. We went through our suitcases & took out stuff we won't need anymore like mosquito nets, towels, fans & grubby work clothes. We took them to Lucas & settled our bill with him adding in the donations that the Franks & Allens had asked us to give to MyFarm. We were able to use Pay Pal so we didn't need to get another wad of money.
Rog had bought hair clippers because he thought it would be good for the boys to learn how to cut hair and he volunteered to let them learn on him! Here's his version:
Since MyFarm is planning a vocational center, it seemed like a good idea to purchase clippers that might be used to cut my hair before leaving them to be used in their vocational center. I thought that it would be a good learning experience for a young person to cut my hair. He might possibly gain the confidence necessary to develop his skill and make some money. Finding a willing student turned out to be easy.
Dembo, about 16, immediately nodded his head in agreement when I asked if he would like to cut my hair. Just a minute later we had found a chair in the shade and were into the process. It had not occurred to me that I should tell him how much hair to remove.
I could tell that he was concentrating on doing a great job and soon the clipper was trimming my neck, cheeks, chin, and upper lip. He continued to work on my head, and I could tell he had taken off quite a lot. Six or eight boys came by to view the progress and appeared to be impressed.
I was encouraged when they said, "Very nice!"
Then I noticed that every one of them had extreme buzz cuts.
About then, Jane and a few of the adults stopped by and their reactions were telling.
Oh, well…hair will grow back eventually.😳
More on Dembo…while visiting with him he asked if I liked football (which meant soccer) so I showed him a few clips of NFL running and passing plays. He also likes soccer and tennis. When I told him that my grand-daughter plays tennis, he said, "Give her to me and I will marry her." Maybe that is how it works in The Gambia….? Don't worry, Cameron. You are safe as we are no longer in The Gambia. Arrived in Morocco early this morning.
in Casablanca, Morocco this morning.
Our last night, we had another fun dinner party. Lucas cooked a huge Gambian meal & brought it over to the volunteer house. A man from Holland who has moved to Gambia & is the main architect for many of the MyFarm projects joined us. Again the discussion was fascinating. We talked about solar energy, corruption in gov't & China's expansion of coal factories and involvement in African countries. Helena made a vegan lemon cake & mixed up mojitos. Who could imagine we'd have such treats in Gambia! Becky & Lucas expressed such great appreciation for all we've done. When I said, really they are the ones who do it day in and day out & should be congratulated, Becky said…but when volunteers come, the whole atmosphere is uplifted…like a spark that ignites the staff and students. It's a win-win situation for sure.
The MyFarm truck rolled out on our last day and we were on it. The school we went to was poorly funded and the kid's uniforms had seen their better days. Tables were set up under the one mango tree and mats in the shade of a wall. About 125 eager & excited kids were squished in that small area. Two other groups of about 25 were in a sunny area getting lessons on micro farming and learning to bake a cake in a solar oven. Kids were a bit on the wild side & not too patient or careful with the activities. Just too excited. The breeze was nice except it kept blowing away the paper pieces to our games so I was always chasing after them. Roger choice to stay helping at the puzzle table. As the kids left, most got a small piece of the cake. Then some ladies brought out 3 huge bowls of domada & a large spoon for each of us. Rog dug in but I just couldn't imagine getting on an airplane with that as my last meal. Luckily I had packed some cheese & crackers. On our ride home, the 5 other teachers with us started drumming & singing loudly & with vigor: We're going miss Gma & Gpa! We took cold showers & finished packing our bags quickly cause we were told to be ready at 4 for our farewell party. When the four talented staff started drumming, the kids & staff came running! The drumming got louder & faster and the dancing started. The kids took turns dancing with so much rhythm & fancy footwork and moving body parts I don't think I have! Dust was flying in the area they were dancing so someone sprinkled water over the area with a watering can. At one point, Carmo, the gardener danced in carrying a beautiful boutique to he'd made and handed it to me. Then they convinced me to dance so I did the best I could. Such a fun time which lasted over an hour. As the staff left for the day, we gave each one a chocolate candy bar. Sam, the technology teacher said he'd never had a chocolate bar before and it was like heaven in his mouth. Lucan & Becky again told us how much they appreciated us. At 7, Karl and Helena took us to the airport. It was a better sweet goodbye…until we meet again.
Our final Gambian experience was yet to come. Again Rog will tell about it:
Since arriving in Gambia we have seen the people here sharing their meals by all gathering around a large plate or bowl filled with rice and stew and eating together. At the school where we volunteered today, the school cook brought out several large bowls for all staff and volunteers who ate from the bowls along with eight or ten children. Some of us had spoons but most did not. Our bowl was on a table in the school yard, but we have seen many groups in The Gambia squatting around a bowl placed on the ground.
At the airport a man passing out a form was happy to get a bit of money for his "dinner" when he completed the form for another traveler. After going through security we found that there was no restaurant open in the secure area. We asked to return to the non secure area so we could use the restaurant there. The men in charge agreed to let us go back to the restaurant but told us to bring them something from the restaurant. OK.
After eating we saw the passport control person who said, "what about our dinner?"
There were two of them so they got one of the bills in my pocket. Next we had to put our bags through the X-ray scanner. Again, "What about something for our dinner?"
Our last Gambian bill now gone, we are ready to board the plane. There is no place left where we could use that money and are glad to be leaving with no $.
It feels like we have been sharing some of what we have with the Gambians just as they commonly do at each meal without even being asked for it. I remember Jane saying that if anyone here is hungry and there is no food they can just go to a neighbor and eat with them.
A simple solution to end hunger.
Today we were just some neighbors who provided dinner to several Gambians!
It was a fitting way to end our time in Gambia.
Rog had bought hair clippers because he thought it would be good for the boys to learn how to cut hair and he volunteered to let them learn on him! Here's his version:
Since MyFarm is planning a vocational center, it seemed like a good idea to purchase clippers that might be used to cut my hair before leaving them to be used in their vocational center. I thought that it would be a good learning experience for a young person to cut my hair. He might possibly gain the confidence necessary to develop his skill and make some money. Finding a willing student turned out to be easy.
Dembo, about 16, immediately nodded his head in agreement when I asked if he would like to cut my hair. Just a minute later we had found a chair in the shade and were into the process. It had not occurred to me that I should tell him how much hair to remove.
I could tell that he was concentrating on doing a great job and soon the clipper was trimming my neck, cheeks, chin, and upper lip. He continued to work on my head, and I could tell he had taken off quite a lot. Six or eight boys came by to view the progress and appeared to be impressed.
I was encouraged when they said, "Very nice!"
Then I noticed that every one of them had extreme buzz cuts.
About then, Jane and a few of the adults stopped by and their reactions were telling.
Oh, well…hair will grow back eventually.😳
More on Dembo…while visiting with him he asked if I liked football (which meant soccer) so I showed him a few clips of NFL running and passing plays. He also likes soccer and tennis. When I told him that my grand-daughter plays tennis, he said, "Give her to me and I will marry her." Maybe that is how it works in The Gambia….? Don't worry, Cameron. You are safe as we are no longer in The Gambia. Arrived in Morocco early this morning.
in Casablanca, Morocco this morning.
Our last night, we had another fun dinner party. Lucas cooked a huge Gambian meal & brought it over to the volunteer house. A man from Holland who has moved to Gambia & is the main architect for many of the MyFarm projects joined us. Again the discussion was fascinating. We talked about solar energy, corruption in gov't & China's expansion of coal factories and involvement in African countries. Helena made a vegan lemon cake & mixed up mojitos. Who could imagine we'd have such treats in Gambia! Becky & Lucas expressed such great appreciation for all we've done. When I said, really they are the ones who do it day in and day out & should be congratulated, Becky said…but when volunteers come, the whole atmosphere is uplifted…like a spark that ignites the staff and students. It's a win-win situation for sure.
The MyFarm truck rolled out on our last day and we were on it. The school we went to was poorly funded and the kid's uniforms had seen their better days. Tables were set up under the one mango tree and mats in the shade of a wall. About 125 eager & excited kids were squished in that small area. Two other groups of about 25 were in a sunny area getting lessons on micro farming and learning to bake a cake in a solar oven. Kids were a bit on the wild side & not too patient or careful with the activities. Just too excited. The breeze was nice except it kept blowing away the paper pieces to our games so I was always chasing after them. Roger choice to stay helping at the puzzle table. As the kids left, most got a small piece of the cake. Then some ladies brought out 3 huge bowls of domada & a large spoon for each of us. Rog dug in but I just couldn't imagine getting on an airplane with that as my last meal. Luckily I had packed some cheese & crackers. On our ride home, the 5 other teachers with us started drumming & singing loudly & with vigor: We're going miss Gma & Gpa! We took cold showers & finished packing our bags quickly cause we were told to be ready at 4 for our farewell party. When the four talented staff started drumming, the kids & staff came running! The drumming got louder & faster and the dancing started. The kids took turns dancing with so much rhythm & fancy footwork and moving body parts I don't think I have! Dust was flying in the area they were dancing so someone sprinkled water over the area with a watering can. At one point, Carmo, the gardener danced in carrying a beautiful boutique to he'd made and handed it to me. Then they convinced me to dance so I did the best I could. Such a fun time which lasted over an hour. As the staff left for the day, we gave each one a chocolate candy bar. Sam, the technology teacher said he'd never had a chocolate bar before and it was like heaven in his mouth. Lucan & Becky again told us how much they appreciated us. At 7, Karl and Helena took us to the airport. It was a better sweet goodbye…until we meet again.
Our final Gambian experience was yet to come. Again Rog will tell about it:
Since arriving in Gambia we have seen the people here sharing their meals by all gathering around a large plate or bowl filled with rice and stew and eating together. At the school where we volunteered today, the school cook brought out several large bowls for all staff and volunteers who ate from the bowls along with eight or ten children. Some of us had spoons but most did not. Our bowl was on a table in the school yard, but we have seen many groups in The Gambia squatting around a bowl placed on the ground.
At the airport a man passing out a form was happy to get a bit of money for his "dinner" when he completed the form for another traveler. After going through security we found that there was no restaurant open in the secure area. We asked to return to the non secure area so we could use the restaurant there. The men in charge agreed to let us go back to the restaurant but told us to bring them something from the restaurant. OK.
After eating we saw the passport control person who said, "what about our dinner?"
There were two of them so they got one of the bills in my pocket. Next we had to put our bags through the X-ray scanner. Again, "What about something for our dinner?"
Our last Gambian bill now gone, we are ready to board the plane. There is no place left where we could use that money and are glad to be leaving with no $.
It feels like we have been sharing some of what we have with the Gambians just as they commonly do at each meal without even being asked for it. I remember Jane saying that if anyone here is hungry and there is no food they can just go to a neighbor and eat with them.
A simple solution to end hunger.
Today we were just some neighbors who provided dinner to several Gambians!
It was a fitting way to end our time in Gambia.
Update #19
Early Fri morning, Rog went with Lucas. Here's his account:
"I went to the bike shop with Lucas today. He bought four bikes and a unicycle for a bit over $100 US. He was very impressed with the order and supplies at the shop and said that he thought that it was probably the best bike shop in Gambia. The bikes will be ready to pick up next Wednesday. It was nice to see my bike mechanic buddies again!"
Lucas hopes to connect with them when he gets the MyFarm bike shop ready to go.
I was back in the labs helping out and reading aloud to the kids. Both spent part of the afternoon creating games. Rog worked on a 5 Peg game and I finished up a checkers game then started playing with some older girls. At one point, another girl came in and I asked if she wanted to play. She said in Gambia, many believe if you play checkers your family compound will break up and you will not have any children. I asked if maybe we shouldn't be playing…she said, no it's a superstition only. One of the local teachers came by so I checked with him. He said yes many believe that but it's not a problem to play. The younger kids wanted to play Doggie, Doggie and I also showed them London Bridges & Duck, Duck, Goose. Wore me out! In the evening, we actually lucked into figuring out the PlayStation so we watched one of Karl's movies. Saturday morning we were off to the beach…to do a beach clean. Becky drove 8 kids & us in their up jeep-truck which you started with a large screw driver. Rog wrote this:
"We went with Becky to do a beach clean up. Took many children with the hope to teach them the value of keeping the environment clean for the health of the animals and for people. A man who lives in a shack on the the beach cooked breakfast for at least 50 volunteers. He encourage us to eat the chicken wings, onion stew , and bread that he had prepared.
I hesitated but he said, "Don't discriminate just enjoy our breakfast!"
It was very tasty. When I thanked him for cooking he said, "Your words water my heart." He was very grateful for our efforts in cleaning the beach. Our group picked up about 10 big garbage bags of trash (mostly plastic) in about two hours. Much of it had come in from the fishing boats that are constantly offshore."
Later in the day, I read aloud to a group of teenage girls who were enthralled with the story, Thank You Brother Bear and laughed out loud hearing There was an Old Lady. Since no one had done any cleaning in the volunteer house, I swept & mopped up the layer of red dirt. I'd hate dealing with this dust all the time!
Next morning was Sunday and only the tech students were here. Carmen, the gardener & I transplanted a plant after I mentioned I noticed an empty planter by the entrance. He thanked me profusely for pointing it out and had someone take a picture of us planting it. Rog & I worked on making a Tower of Hanoi & a triangle per game. We're hoping the kids will now be able to make more for themselves or to sell. Around 3, we called a cab & went to a nice beach restaurant that Lucas recommended for a delicious shrimp dinner & cake too! Three waiters took our order over a course of about an hour before we finally got our food. So Gambian! But it was just realizing & nice to be at this popular beach on a Sunday evening. It was crowded with white tourist, Gambians, football players, horses back riders, bikers, ladies selling fruit, drummers and many swimmers. The cab ride there & back was like the craziest carnival ride ever. We bottomed out and avoided other cars & pedestrians by inches as we took the back roads avoiding traffic. Actually it made me a bit seasick!
On Monday, we climbed back into the firetruck & headed to the largest prison in Gambia. MyFarm has started a program to teach skills that the prisoners can use when released. Last year, they introduced micro gardening & soap making. Our team was so excited when they opened the gate & immediately saw a huge, bountiful garden and looking down the driveway was more! A big bag of soap bars was evidence of another success. The prison warden was very welcoming & before long we were building more table to plant, working up new ground & adding compost and making mango jam. Rog helped disassemble pallets teaching them to use a crowbar—right up his alley. The boards were used to build more tables. I was the assistant making jam. Mangos will be plentiful soon so making jam will be a great way to store or sell them. We put some jars in the solar oven to sterilize them & cooked the mangos & sugar over a small charcoal burner right in the classroom. We filled 8 jars then poured some in each of the 20+ prisoners & guards' hands. They licked it up grinning & smacking their lips! We didn't get back until 4:30. Since we'd not had any lunch…we were starved but full of satisfaction!
"I went to the bike shop with Lucas today. He bought four bikes and a unicycle for a bit over $100 US. He was very impressed with the order and supplies at the shop and said that he thought that it was probably the best bike shop in Gambia. The bikes will be ready to pick up next Wednesday. It was nice to see my bike mechanic buddies again!"
Lucas hopes to connect with them when he gets the MyFarm bike shop ready to go.
I was back in the labs helping out and reading aloud to the kids. Both spent part of the afternoon creating games. Rog worked on a 5 Peg game and I finished up a checkers game then started playing with some older girls. At one point, another girl came in and I asked if she wanted to play. She said in Gambia, many believe if you play checkers your family compound will break up and you will not have any children. I asked if maybe we shouldn't be playing…she said, no it's a superstition only. One of the local teachers came by so I checked with him. He said yes many believe that but it's not a problem to play. The younger kids wanted to play Doggie, Doggie and I also showed them London Bridges & Duck, Duck, Goose. Wore me out! In the evening, we actually lucked into figuring out the PlayStation so we watched one of Karl's movies. Saturday morning we were off to the beach…to do a beach clean. Becky drove 8 kids & us in their up jeep-truck which you started with a large screw driver. Rog wrote this:
"We went with Becky to do a beach clean up. Took many children with the hope to teach them the value of keeping the environment clean for the health of the animals and for people. A man who lives in a shack on the the beach cooked breakfast for at least 50 volunteers. He encourage us to eat the chicken wings, onion stew , and bread that he had prepared.
I hesitated but he said, "Don't discriminate just enjoy our breakfast!"
It was very tasty. When I thanked him for cooking he said, "Your words water my heart." He was very grateful for our efforts in cleaning the beach. Our group picked up about 10 big garbage bags of trash (mostly plastic) in about two hours. Much of it had come in from the fishing boats that are constantly offshore."
Later in the day, I read aloud to a group of teenage girls who were enthralled with the story, Thank You Brother Bear and laughed out loud hearing There was an Old Lady. Since no one had done any cleaning in the volunteer house, I swept & mopped up the layer of red dirt. I'd hate dealing with this dust all the time!
Next morning was Sunday and only the tech students were here. Carmen, the gardener & I transplanted a plant after I mentioned I noticed an empty planter by the entrance. He thanked me profusely for pointing it out and had someone take a picture of us planting it. Rog & I worked on making a Tower of Hanoi & a triangle per game. We're hoping the kids will now be able to make more for themselves or to sell. Around 3, we called a cab & went to a nice beach restaurant that Lucas recommended for a delicious shrimp dinner & cake too! Three waiters took our order over a course of about an hour before we finally got our food. So Gambian! But it was just realizing & nice to be at this popular beach on a Sunday evening. It was crowded with white tourist, Gambians, football players, horses back riders, bikers, ladies selling fruit, drummers and many swimmers. The cab ride there & back was like the craziest carnival ride ever. We bottomed out and avoided other cars & pedestrians by inches as we took the back roads avoiding traffic. Actually it made me a bit seasick!
On Monday, we climbed back into the firetruck & headed to the largest prison in Gambia. MyFarm has started a program to teach skills that the prisoners can use when released. Last year, they introduced micro gardening & soap making. Our team was so excited when they opened the gate & immediately saw a huge, bountiful garden and looking down the driveway was more! A big bag of soap bars was evidence of another success. The prison warden was very welcoming & before long we were building more table to plant, working up new ground & adding compost and making mango jam. Rog helped disassemble pallets teaching them to use a crowbar—right up his alley. The boards were used to build more tables. I was the assistant making jam. Mangos will be plentiful soon so making jam will be a great way to store or sell them. We put some jars in the solar oven to sterilize them & cooked the mangos & sugar over a small charcoal burner right in the classroom. We filled 8 jars then poured some in each of the 20+ prisoners & guards' hands. They licked it up grinning & smacking their lips! We didn't get back until 4:30. Since we'd not had any lunch…we were starved but full of satisfaction!
Update #18
We climbed into the refurnished bus again to head for another school about an hour away. Two Gambian teachers were with us and I mentioned something about how hard Africa was hit by Ebola & AIDS and boy did that set off an interesting discussion!
Rog wrote about it:
"One of the local employees of MyFarm was pretty irritated by the fact that the western media portrays Africa in such a negative light. He says that the media makes it sound like the entire continent has Ebola, war, corruption, etc. In reality those problems exist in a few countries here, but not all. By comparison, when Russia attacked Ukraine it was not seen as war all over Europe. Corrupt leaders here encourage the media to portray Africa this way to bolster assistance from wealthy countries. And then they pocket the money!
The media lumps all of Africa into one bunch which is so very unfair. ". He vehement about how wrong that was. Both teachers felt Gambians are very caring people who take care of their own. Ebola, AIDS and malaria effect only a small percentage of Africans and tiny number in Gambia. Both teachers are involved in groups to help with enviromental issues as well.
Rog noted that it did seem that:
"Only in a place with a failing economy would you find people using things that most of us would not consider keeping. We are told that the only people here that have any extra money are those who earned it in Europe. It feels like hand to mouth survival for most…and they do get the food they need from their gardens and the sea."
Gambians we've talked to would agree with this.
After crawling out of the firetruck, we saw hundreds of kids who were being herded back to their classrooms by a man with a long stick. We quickly set up our activities (similar to last week) and soon every spot available spot had a kid there. Three of the teachers joined us at the activity table. All three had babies either on their laps, on their backs and/or nursing them. They said their babies come to school with them everyday! A groups of kids were selected to stir up a cake which they put in the solar oven. Later they ate it and we got some too. It tasted like a warm, soft sugar cookie. Mmmmm! About 2:30, we met with the principal who asked us about our experience. He was very happy we provided this opportunity as they get so little in their classrooms with few text books & 45 kids (and teachers who have their babies with them).
We were exhausted when we got back about 4pm. Sally, our cook had saved us lunch (dried fish & rice) which Rog ate and I stirred up some egg salad.
We rested, showered & tada…Rog found some corn to pop in a cupboard & since Karl's folks had sent home 3 extra Diet Cokes for me…I was in heaven!
Final interesting tidbit from Rog:
The shape of Gambia is very unique. We were told that the British wanted to control the river because of the valuable slave trade that was happening here. They set the boundary of the country by sailing up the Gambia River and fired a cannon away from the river. Wherever the cannon ball landed determined the boundary line. It is easy to see that this must be true when you look at the shape and compare it to the river.
Rog wrote about it:
"One of the local employees of MyFarm was pretty irritated by the fact that the western media portrays Africa in such a negative light. He says that the media makes it sound like the entire continent has Ebola, war, corruption, etc. In reality those problems exist in a few countries here, but not all. By comparison, when Russia attacked Ukraine it was not seen as war all over Europe. Corrupt leaders here encourage the media to portray Africa this way to bolster assistance from wealthy countries. And then they pocket the money!
The media lumps all of Africa into one bunch which is so very unfair. ". He vehement about how wrong that was. Both teachers felt Gambians are very caring people who take care of their own. Ebola, AIDS and malaria effect only a small percentage of Africans and tiny number in Gambia. Both teachers are involved in groups to help with enviromental issues as well.
Rog noted that it did seem that:
"Only in a place with a failing economy would you find people using things that most of us would not consider keeping. We are told that the only people here that have any extra money are those who earned it in Europe. It feels like hand to mouth survival for most…and they do get the food they need from their gardens and the sea."
Gambians we've talked to would agree with this.
After crawling out of the firetruck, we saw hundreds of kids who were being herded back to their classrooms by a man with a long stick. We quickly set up our activities (similar to last week) and soon every spot available spot had a kid there. Three of the teachers joined us at the activity table. All three had babies either on their laps, on their backs and/or nursing them. They said their babies come to school with them everyday! A groups of kids were selected to stir up a cake which they put in the solar oven. Later they ate it and we got some too. It tasted like a warm, soft sugar cookie. Mmmmm! About 2:30, we met with the principal who asked us about our experience. He was very happy we provided this opportunity as they get so little in their classrooms with few text books & 45 kids (and teachers who have their babies with them).
We were exhausted when we got back about 4pm. Sally, our cook had saved us lunch (dried fish & rice) which Rog ate and I stirred up some egg salad.
We rested, showered & tada…Rog found some corn to pop in a cupboard & since Karl's folks had sent home 3 extra Diet Cokes for me…I was in heaven!
Final interesting tidbit from Rog:
The shape of Gambia is very unique. We were told that the British wanted to control the river because of the valuable slave trade that was happening here. They set the boundary of the country by sailing up the Gambia River and fired a cannon away from the river. Wherever the cannon ball landed determined the boundary line. It is easy to see that this must be true when you look at the shape and compare it to the river.
Update #17
Kids were back today! Lots of them! Since it's a drop in program, the number changes daily. I helped sort some donated text books. Since MyFarm has its own program, the books were split into 3 boxes & will be donated to 3 schools. After about 2 hours of sorting in the hot, dusty upstairs, I was relieved & excited to read aloud to some younger kids. Always a joy to me! By then the older kids group was in need of help as they were sandpainting, carving, making doll houses & making soap. I floated between the groups. When things seemed to be going smooth, I joined Rog in the number lab. He had spent most his day repairing a solar drying oven, fixing signs around the grounds & writing lesson plans for a garden lesson. Next day I was back in the learning lab & reading aloud to several groups. In the afternoon, an American author came to do talk to us about her book, One Plastic Bag. The Gambian hero of her book, Isatou joined her. Isatou has been gathering plastic trash bags and weaving them into purses and other items for many years now. She has recruited many of others and helped them start their own successful businesses teaching them to funnel some of their income into building their business. Now many of them have come up with products using other waste products. She eventually formed a Women Empowering group, then a Person with Disabilities group and an Enviromental group. Isatou gave a pep talk to the many youth that were there. Afternoon was more story reading and playing Doggie, Doggie where's your bone. A cold shower was needed. Rog spent most his day working with Karl's dad on various projects. In the evening, we were invited to where Karl's parent have been staying…which happens to be Lucas' parent's home. It was a beautiful large well decorated home with two pools! Lucas & Becky came as well. We were treated to a most delicious Mexican meal and they'd even bought me Diet Coke! After we ate every drop of food & the wine glasses, beers & my Diet Coke glass was filled again, we had a fascinating discussion. Here's Rog's take on it:
"We had an interesting evening…dinner and conversation with our Norwegian friends along with the managers of the farm, Lucas and Becky. Mostly centered around conservation, pollution and concern for the future of the earth. Hope for future solutions to the big problems along with current "band-aid" efforts predominated. Capturing carbon and storing it under the North Sea is a new procedure that Ovind has been working on n Norway. Lucas sees the next generation as the one that must solve the problem as there is little time left. It will happen!"
What a fulfilling evenings in more ways than one! It reminded me of something I read that MLK said:
The conversation around the table was as nourishing as the food that was served.
"We had an interesting evening…dinner and conversation with our Norwegian friends along with the managers of the farm, Lucas and Becky. Mostly centered around conservation, pollution and concern for the future of the earth. Hope for future solutions to the big problems along with current "band-aid" efforts predominated. Capturing carbon and storing it under the North Sea is a new procedure that Ovind has been working on n Norway. Lucas sees the next generation as the one that must solve the problem as there is little time left. It will happen!"
What a fulfilling evenings in more ways than one! It reminded me of something I read that MLK said:
The conversation around the table was as nourishing as the food that was served.
Update #16
Sunday and Monday were National Holidays so I had two days to finish cleaning & organizing the books in the library What a dirty job but so rewarding when it was done…which took most of three days. I made labels too and was able to laminate them. My years of laminating came in handy! The director's wife, Becky asked me to make a list of signs around the farm that needed to be made or replaced. Ask me for a list and you'll get one…probably a lot longer list than you wanted! Rog repurposed an old bunny pen into a trash bin and did lots of watering as the help had the days off. He also helped work with Karl and a group of students on a picnic table…until the saw got over headed. I snapped a picture of a girl with head covering & long dress learning to use the electric saw. Cool. We also spent time talking with Jenny who just got hired as HR. She's Jamaican but lived in UK. Rog challenged her to learn Grab It and I showed her how to play Bananagram. I also had an interesting conversation with a visitor. He was wearing his Muslim hat and carrying his prayer beads. I asked if he'd mind telling me what he says for each bead. He told me there''a 135 beads & he chooses a chapter from the Koran and repeats it 135 times. I asked if that was to memorize it. He said not really. It was more a way to make the chapter a part of him. To really think about all the parts of the chapter and what they mean. He then thanked me profusely for asking and said he thought it was so important for people to try to understand other people the their customs. I agree. Karl and his his Dad came by and we got talking about politics. Karl's Dad probably knows more about American politics than I do. He is very worried about our democracy and felt Trump divided our country. He is also worried about Putin. Norway borders on a small section of Russia and in the past, there has been no issue but now there is friction. Norway is part of NATO. Actually many Gambians have asked us about Trump and felt he was a bad dictator. The world is watching.
Update #15
On to MyFarm—what a fascinating place! Lucas, the director & the guy I'd communicated with, met us and gave us a grand tour. We could scarcely keep up with all the projects/activities currently active here: micro gardening; hydroponics; raising chickens, ducks, rabbits & pigs; fish ponds; mulch bins; solar oven; solar drying oven; soap, lotions, tea, jam & honey processing; bee hives; AND computer lab; literacy, numeric, science & creativity labs! And they are still building a complex to house occupational labs which probably will be for construction & mechanic plus a couple more. Everywhere are small plots of growing trees & plants with signs explaining possible use. So much happening in this compound! School groups come for tours and it is open for drop in students all day. Since many students only go to school half time, many come here the other half.
The volunteer housing was much nicer than we expected! It's only 7 months old. We have a large room & our own bathroom. No hot water but hey, at least running water. There's a big kitchen with a frig, gas stove & water filter and a dining/living room area. Helena, Karl & his sister, Ingrid are our housemates. They are all from the town in Norway which is the home of the founder of AfricaStart Up (MyFarm is one of their programs). Karl has been here since September & is the handy man here around here. Helena has been here about a week and worked for the foundation in Norway so she knows a lot the workings. Ingrid arrived shortly after us. Karl suggested we order pizza. He has discovered a place that delivers delicious pizzas. Jackpot! We chatted & feasted on delicious Hawaiian pizza till almost 11.
Next morning we climbed into a refurbished fire truck around 9:30 and drove about an hour to a school. Heavy tables, benches and mats were unloaded and set up. Lots of different activities were set out: A table for: puzzles, & logic games; robo blocks; paper & colored pencils; and paints for face painting. A mat was used for large legos and another for iPads that were already programmed & firmly built into a small table. Rog & I worked at the puzzle & logic games table. After about 2 hours, kids got an orange drink, we put away the activities & a MyFarm teacher did a whole group lesson about micro farming & hydroponics. He showed them a table filled with only peanut shucks where lots of healthy lettuce was growing. He then showed them a bucket sawed in half, filled with water with a styrofoam blocks where small holes contained mint plants were growing well. He explained these both could be grow lots of food without much land. All using recycled materials! The kids were very attentive. Finally, a circle was formed & 6 chairs put in the center. 7 kids were chosen and DJ Karl started the music for musical chairs. After someone won, the game was played 2 more times. A bit after 2, we got in Karl's car so we could stop to get veges & fruit land also go to a grocery store. We got eggs, tuna, cheese, crackers, cereal & Diet Coke!!! Lunch is provided so now we have breakfast & dinner for quite a while. Quiet evening for us & a night out for our young Norwegian mates.
Next day I spent the morning helping organize the activities we used yesterday. In the afternoon, I joined the creative arts class or younger kids. Not much was happening & since I'd found lots of stickers in the morning, I told the kids to draw a palace to put the stickers in. They were on it! Rog spent the day helping Karl built a holder for trash bins. Good day. Saturday we went for a walk in a nearby park with Lucas. He has been so welcoming & asking us for ideas as he's always wanting to improve. Such an upbeat guy! He's been coming to Gambia most of his life because his Gambian mom has family here. When we got back, Rog spent hours watering while I worked on cleaning & organizing book shelves. Dust here is horrid & obviously kids had rummaged through the books. I got 4 done & 3 to go. Karl & Ingrid's parent arrived around 7. His dad was bursting with pride that both his kids are here volunteering!! Rightly so!
The volunteer housing was much nicer than we expected! It's only 7 months old. We have a large room & our own bathroom. No hot water but hey, at least running water. There's a big kitchen with a frig, gas stove & water filter and a dining/living room area. Helena, Karl & his sister, Ingrid are our housemates. They are all from the town in Norway which is the home of the founder of AfricaStart Up (MyFarm is one of their programs). Karl has been here since September & is the handy man here around here. Helena has been here about a week and worked for the foundation in Norway so she knows a lot the workings. Ingrid arrived shortly after us. Karl suggested we order pizza. He has discovered a place that delivers delicious pizzas. Jackpot! We chatted & feasted on delicious Hawaiian pizza till almost 11.
Next morning we climbed into a refurbished fire truck around 9:30 and drove about an hour to a school. Heavy tables, benches and mats were unloaded and set up. Lots of different activities were set out: A table for: puzzles, & logic games; robo blocks; paper & colored pencils; and paints for face painting. A mat was used for large legos and another for iPads that were already programmed & firmly built into a small table. Rog & I worked at the puzzle & logic games table. After about 2 hours, kids got an orange drink, we put away the activities & a MyFarm teacher did a whole group lesson about micro farming & hydroponics. He showed them a table filled with only peanut shucks where lots of healthy lettuce was growing. He then showed them a bucket sawed in half, filled with water with a styrofoam blocks where small holes contained mint plants were growing well. He explained these both could be grow lots of food without much land. All using recycled materials! The kids were very attentive. Finally, a circle was formed & 6 chairs put in the center. 7 kids were chosen and DJ Karl started the music for musical chairs. After someone won, the game was played 2 more times. A bit after 2, we got in Karl's car so we could stop to get veges & fruit land also go to a grocery store. We got eggs, tuna, cheese, crackers, cereal & Diet Coke!!! Lunch is provided so now we have breakfast & dinner for quite a while. Quiet evening for us & a night out for our young Norwegian mates.
Next day I spent the morning helping organize the activities we used yesterday. In the afternoon, I joined the creative arts class or younger kids. Not much was happening & since I'd found lots of stickers in the morning, I told the kids to draw a palace to put the stickers in. They were on it! Rog spent the day helping Karl built a holder for trash bins. Good day. Saturday we went for a walk in a nearby park with Lucas. He has been so welcoming & asking us for ideas as he's always wanting to improve. Such an upbeat guy! He's been coming to Gambia most of his life because his Gambian mom has family here. When we got back, Rog spent hours watering while I worked on cleaning & organizing book shelves. Dust here is horrid & obviously kids had rummaged through the books. I got 4 done & 3 to go. Karl & Ingrid's parent arrived around 7. His dad was bursting with pride that both his kids are here volunteering!! Rightly so!
Update #14
Since it was Valentine's Day, I bought a new dress and Rog got pick out where we ate which was in a 5* hotel close by. It was a good peak into the reason why we've met so many Europeans here. It's quite close for them (4-6 hr flight), warm & sunny and much less expensive even at the nicer hotels & restaurants. It's like Americans going to resorts in Mexico. They aren't coming to the real Gambia—they are able to stay in a nice place & avoid their cold months. Our hotel would probably be a 3* and it's the nicest we've stayed in so far…for $50. Overall we've paid about $30. Meals range from $7-15. Considering the largest Dalasi bill is a 200…worth $3.25….we have to carry a hefty wad with us! We continue to hear the call to prayer and have seen many men stop to remove their sandals, wash their feet, put on a long tunics and then roll out a mat to knell and pray. As we pass by the many mosque, we see lots of shoes outside. Women also come to pray knelling behind the men.
Banjul, the capital, deserved a day so off we went. We arrived at the ferry terminal that crosses The Gambia River. As we sat & waited, we visited with a Canadian couple who have visited 135 countries…usually on tours or cruise ships. They had a driver & a nice car and offered to let us join them in the car which would be loaded onto the ferry. The weather was getting increasingly windier & a filled with dust. We decided we'd skip the ferry ride all together as the visibility was so poor. So we headed to the Gambian National Museum. Displays were old, dusty but interesting. I especially got a chuckle out of the voting barrel with 2 colors of marbles which is still used today. Supposedly they'll use paper ballots in 2026. Maybe. We walked to get a close up look of Arch 22 erected in honor of their Independence from England on March 22, 1965. That was all we could find to see in Banjul. Sad. We hailed a taxi for a ride back to our hotel and that's when the best part of our day began.
Here's Roger's description:
-A Resourceful cab driver
Returning from Banjul, we hailed a taxi for the twenty minute ride. Our uneventful journey was interrupted when the cab slowed and he pointed to the battery light with concern. "It won't charge", was all he said.
Pulling over he opened the hood and started pulling at the belt. It soon came out…frayed but not yet broken.
From a box under the hood he pulled out another belt (used but serviceable) and soon had it installed for a temporary fix!
Getting back inside he attempted to start the car, but now too little battery power is the problem.
Never fear, he says he has another.
Opening the trunk he banged around for a bit, and again tried to start the car. Maybe there was another battery in the trunk that can be used to assist the one under the hood? He turned the key again. Success!
He then pulled a plastic jug out of his trunk and filled the radiator…then thoroughly washed his hands with soap…picking up a bit of sand to help scrub them clean. Rinsing well he was again ready to complete our ride!
Watching him problem solve was worth more than the cost of the taxi ride ( $5 ). And while all this was going on, a group of about 8-10 teenage boys came walking along the roadside (on their way home from school?) They stopped to forage tiny fruits that had fallen from a tree beside the road. Several minutes were spent searching for the tiny fruits that were hidden under leaves or in the grass. They soon walked away with a handful for a snack. They said they were very nice and offered some to us but we did not try them.
You never know what the days will bring!
Banjul, the capital, deserved a day so off we went. We arrived at the ferry terminal that crosses The Gambia River. As we sat & waited, we visited with a Canadian couple who have visited 135 countries…usually on tours or cruise ships. They had a driver & a nice car and offered to let us join them in the car which would be loaded onto the ferry. The weather was getting increasingly windier & a filled with dust. We decided we'd skip the ferry ride all together as the visibility was so poor. So we headed to the Gambian National Museum. Displays were old, dusty but interesting. I especially got a chuckle out of the voting barrel with 2 colors of marbles which is still used today. Supposedly they'll use paper ballots in 2026. Maybe. We walked to get a close up look of Arch 22 erected in honor of their Independence from England on March 22, 1965. That was all we could find to see in Banjul. Sad. We hailed a taxi for a ride back to our hotel and that's when the best part of our day began.
Here's Roger's description:
-A Resourceful cab driver
Returning from Banjul, we hailed a taxi for the twenty minute ride. Our uneventful journey was interrupted when the cab slowed and he pointed to the battery light with concern. "It won't charge", was all he said.
Pulling over he opened the hood and started pulling at the belt. It soon came out…frayed but not yet broken.
From a box under the hood he pulled out another belt (used but serviceable) and soon had it installed for a temporary fix!
Getting back inside he attempted to start the car, but now too little battery power is the problem.
Never fear, he says he has another.
Opening the trunk he banged around for a bit, and again tried to start the car. Maybe there was another battery in the trunk that can be used to assist the one under the hood? He turned the key again. Success!
He then pulled a plastic jug out of his trunk and filled the radiator…then thoroughly washed his hands with soap…picking up a bit of sand to help scrub them clean. Rinsing well he was again ready to complete our ride!
Watching him problem solve was worth more than the cost of the taxi ride ( $5 ). And while all this was going on, a group of about 8-10 teenage boys came walking along the roadside (on their way home from school?) They stopped to forage tiny fruits that had fallen from a tree beside the road. Several minutes were spent searching for the tiny fruits that were hidden under leaves or in the grass. They soon walked away with a handful for a snack. They said they were very nice and offered some to us but we did not try them.
You never know what the days will bring!
Update #13
It was time to move closer to Banjul, capital of Gambia. Our driver was full of interesting information. As we got closer to Banjul, we started passing by much nicer homes. He called this area Fake Gambia. He told us the money to build these homes was made in Europe or USA. Many whites come here and marry Gambians and age was not a factor. That was apparent when we saw usually much older whites holding hands with young Gambians. Our driver felt mixed marriages were good. He said we may think different, move different but we are one people. Our friendship will go deeper when whites marry blacks. Probably right. We passed by a huge stadium which he told us was built as a gift from the Chinese. They are also building a road from the airport to a conference center that is under construction. Many countries will be coming to this conference.
When we got to our airbnb, we soon discovered it was not as advertised. No water in the sink, toilet didn't flush and the cleanliness standard was very low. It did have good internet, hot shower and a nice pool with shaded lounge chairs…too bad the big dogs took turns using the chairs too! The Kachikally Crocodile pond was close so Rog mapped out a walk we could take. We soon noticed that his route followed an open sewer. It was very disgusting & smelly. I heard a baby crying and I thought…that baby doesn't even know how much it has to cry about. There was quite a nice museum at the entrance which included traditional ceremonial masks, clothing & instruments. A display showing the Gambian soldiers who fought in WWI and WWII. A picture of Queen Elizabeth's visit in 1965 along with some chiefs & other political leaders. A short walk led us to the small pond where the crocodiles were—over 100 of them! As we approached, we saw a large albino one which we both thought was stuffed. Wrong. With a bit of encouragement & after checking the guides hands for 10 fingers, I bent over and pet it…as Rog took a picture. It was amazingly hard! This pond is considered sacred & if you pour the pond water over you…you will be cured. I drew the line and declined.
We managed to find another way back to our hotel and spent time reading & swimming. Around 4, we walked to the Botanical Garden. There the caretaker said it's heyday has long gone. There was a few flowers & some trees but nothing to write about. The caretaker had been there about 20 years and it made him sad to see the decline. That night I spent quite a bit of time on Instagram with Cameron, Claire, Colby, Reagan & Addie. Fun to be connected with them!
Next day was Saturday so @2 we called Ben and then Jake…talking to each of them about 45 minutes. WhatsAp is such a gift to us! We went to find dinner & ate at the same place as last night because it was so good: shrimp & Schwarma first night and fish cakes & shrimp spring rolls the next. Back to our room, we called Bekah and spent almost an hour catching up with her. Later I noticed Sarah was active on Instagram so ended up talking to her and their whole family and even got to listen to Jake play the guitar. We felt like we'd spent the day with our kids & gkids! Between mosquitoes & a noisy fan, it was a long night. We ate granola bar for breakfast, read abit & I talked to an older lady from UK. She's been coming here for years helping a friend who runs a NGO to help young men learn to be very successful gardeners. It's honest work and takes some of the load off the women who do most the garden work. She said Gambia had improved some over the years but the work ethics remains extremely low. This airbnb is a good example. If something needs work…it probably won't get it because the owners live in Holland and the caretaker is lazy. We were eager to get out of here so by 11 we hailed a taxi to a hotel about 10 minutes away. SOOOO much better! Clean, air conditioning, flush toilet, a tub with hot shower, a huge pool and just a short walk to a beach. Oh nice it felt! After we settled in, we walked the beach but I had to return quickly cause I had a case of diarrhea. Ugh. Some meds, a hot shower & rest on a comfy bed was all I needed. Rog went off in search of some lunch. We have a TV so we watched that a little while & then worked on our Morocco trip. We shared a delicious shrimp/noodle dinner & had big dish of ice cream with chocolate sauce. Nice!
When we got to our airbnb, we soon discovered it was not as advertised. No water in the sink, toilet didn't flush and the cleanliness standard was very low. It did have good internet, hot shower and a nice pool with shaded lounge chairs…too bad the big dogs took turns using the chairs too! The Kachikally Crocodile pond was close so Rog mapped out a walk we could take. We soon noticed that his route followed an open sewer. It was very disgusting & smelly. I heard a baby crying and I thought…that baby doesn't even know how much it has to cry about. There was quite a nice museum at the entrance which included traditional ceremonial masks, clothing & instruments. A display showing the Gambian soldiers who fought in WWI and WWII. A picture of Queen Elizabeth's visit in 1965 along with some chiefs & other political leaders. A short walk led us to the small pond where the crocodiles were—over 100 of them! As we approached, we saw a large albino one which we both thought was stuffed. Wrong. With a bit of encouragement & after checking the guides hands for 10 fingers, I bent over and pet it…as Rog took a picture. It was amazingly hard! This pond is considered sacred & if you pour the pond water over you…you will be cured. I drew the line and declined.
We managed to find another way back to our hotel and spent time reading & swimming. Around 4, we walked to the Botanical Garden. There the caretaker said it's heyday has long gone. There was a few flowers & some trees but nothing to write about. The caretaker had been there about 20 years and it made him sad to see the decline. That night I spent quite a bit of time on Instagram with Cameron, Claire, Colby, Reagan & Addie. Fun to be connected with them!
Next day was Saturday so @2 we called Ben and then Jake…talking to each of them about 45 minutes. WhatsAp is such a gift to us! We went to find dinner & ate at the same place as last night because it was so good: shrimp & Schwarma first night and fish cakes & shrimp spring rolls the next. Back to our room, we called Bekah and spent almost an hour catching up with her. Later I noticed Sarah was active on Instagram so ended up talking to her and their whole family and even got to listen to Jake play the guitar. We felt like we'd spent the day with our kids & gkids! Between mosquitoes & a noisy fan, it was a long night. We ate granola bar for breakfast, read abit & I talked to an older lady from UK. She's been coming here for years helping a friend who runs a NGO to help young men learn to be very successful gardeners. It's honest work and takes some of the load off the women who do most the garden work. She said Gambia had improved some over the years but the work ethics remains extremely low. This airbnb is a good example. If something needs work…it probably won't get it because the owners live in Holland and the caretaker is lazy. We were eager to get out of here so by 11 we hailed a taxi to a hotel about 10 minutes away. SOOOO much better! Clean, air conditioning, flush toilet, a tub with hot shower, a huge pool and just a short walk to a beach. Oh nice it felt! After we settled in, we walked the beach but I had to return quickly cause I had a case of diarrhea. Ugh. Some meds, a hot shower & rest on a comfy bed was all I needed. Rog went off in search of some lunch. We have a TV so we watched that a little while & then worked on our Morocco trip. We shared a delicious shrimp/noodle dinner & had big dish of ice cream with chocolate sauce. Nice!
Friday, February 10, 2023
Gambia #12
Today we visited the Tanji Village museum. It included some examples of local plants, trees, crafts and a replica of an early center village…actually not much different than some that we've seen here now. There were several hides, mounted butterflies & insects and snake skins—all with a thick layer of dust. Most telling was an older poster with silhouettes of mammals in Gambia showing the past (many), present (15 or so) and future (5). Looking at it & thinking about what we've seen, I said to our guide…looks like you're already in the future. He sadly agreed. He said the gov't says they can't cut trees & brush on lots of the land but made a contract with the Chinese to buy lumber. Habitat is disappearing quickly. As in other places in Gambia, everything at this museum was in poor condition or non-existence. Our guide told us what use to be there. His 3 year old son was following us around to we gave him a balloon. He happily played with it as we sat down to listen to two drummers play for us with gusto. Eventually, the little boy sat between the drummers and with our encouragement, he too beat on the drum. He'll be playing soon! It was a good way to end our visit there. Considering what we've seen & heard, we decided to not go to Abuko Nat'l Park.
We came back to our Airbnb, hung our clothesline and soon had our wash drying. We read & played cards and then Rog went out front to get a beer and soon was off looking for a pig…
Here's his story:
I went with Lamin to look for a pig to be prepared in the kitchen here. After asking around a nearby community, he found some locals who led us through their garden to a shed that housed about 15 pigs. Lamin is a Muslim and does not eat pork, but he is fine with buying pigs from the Christians who raise them. He bought one for 6000 dalasi (about $100 US). They feed the pigs leftover food from restaurants. The garden was full of wonja and it was harvest time. The whole family was involved with picking, trimming, or carrying the crop to their house. It will take days to complete the job.
German food in The Gambia for dinner!
We are encouraged to ask for any dish we like so Why not kniffles?
Mirama told us that the area of Germany where she came from calls them spaetzle and she cuts the dough into boiling water. Along with goulash (beef in a spicy sauce) and cooked red cabbage it felt like we might be in Germany, or home.😀
We have had delicious food here! Yesterday we had hamburgers & French fries and I drank a Coke. Felt a bit like I was back home! We spent much of the day planning our trip to Morocco—just a couple weeks away. I wrote to Mariame from Morocco who we met in the Philippines and ask if we could meet up & if she had any advice. She wrote back and for the next hour bombarded us with advice and excitement about meeting up! How fun. We got lucky and were able to contact: Shan, Claire, Reagan, Bekah, Addie, David and Noah! What a treat! Later today we're headed closer to Banjul.
I did want to record a conversation we had with our German host which was similar to what our local driver told us. Gambia is seeing an increase in kids attending Muslim's schools where basically only the Koran is taught. More girls are covering their heads. These schools are being built & kids sponsored by people in Saudi Arabia. Students are being denied a full education and being held captive by their religion—the outcome Saudi Arabia is seeking. If true, it's another sad scenario.
We came back to our Airbnb, hung our clothesline and soon had our wash drying. We read & played cards and then Rog went out front to get a beer and soon was off looking for a pig…
Here's his story:
I went with Lamin to look for a pig to be prepared in the kitchen here. After asking around a nearby community, he found some locals who led us through their garden to a shed that housed about 15 pigs. Lamin is a Muslim and does not eat pork, but he is fine with buying pigs from the Christians who raise them. He bought one for 6000 dalasi (about $100 US). They feed the pigs leftover food from restaurants. The garden was full of wonja and it was harvest time. The whole family was involved with picking, trimming, or carrying the crop to their house. It will take days to complete the job.
German food in The Gambia for dinner!
We are encouraged to ask for any dish we like so Why not kniffles?
Mirama told us that the area of Germany where she came from calls them spaetzle and she cuts the dough into boiling water. Along with goulash (beef in a spicy sauce) and cooked red cabbage it felt like we might be in Germany, or home.😀
We have had delicious food here! Yesterday we had hamburgers & French fries and I drank a Coke. Felt a bit like I was back home! We spent much of the day planning our trip to Morocco—just a couple weeks away. I wrote to Mariame from Morocco who we met in the Philippines and ask if we could meet up & if she had any advice. She wrote back and for the next hour bombarded us with advice and excitement about meeting up! How fun. We got lucky and were able to contact: Shan, Claire, Reagan, Bekah, Addie, David and Noah! What a treat! Later today we're headed closer to Banjul.
I did want to record a conversation we had with our German host which was similar to what our local driver told us. Gambia is seeing an increase in kids attending Muslim's schools where basically only the Koran is taught. More girls are covering their heads. These schools are being built & kids sponsored by people in Saudi Arabia. Students are being denied a full education and being held captive by their religion—the outcome Saudi Arabia is seeking. If true, it's another sad scenario.
Wednesday, February 8, 2023
Gambia #11
We moved on toward Banjul so we could check out a few other suggested sites. We're in an Airbnb near Tujereng. It's run by a German lady who's a great cook. She seemed delighted to serve us potato salad and ham on a huge plate soon after we arrived. The many monkeys around are kept away by her dogs. It's quiet and peaceful.
Here's Roger's thoughts:
"Kachadulaa Garden 2/7/22
The German lady who owns this place used to be a cook on a ship for East Germans. She learned to cook very well because they told her they would throw her over the side if the food was bad. A joke, I hope!
She (Mariama) came here after living for some time in Sweden, but now considers Gambia her home. Her friend, Carrie, lives a short distance away and comes to help with the kitchen work and waits tables. There are often many Europeans here for evening meals as Mariama is a great cook and offers dishes that are not commonly available here. Chicken Schnitzel, Ribeye steak, potato salad, etc.
Visiting with them we found that Carrie is in Gambia because she was being pressed to be vaccinated in Sweden and chose to leave rather than comply. She seems very content with her life here.
Mariama walks with a limp and says that she came here because the weather here allows her to move without pain. She has a Gambian husband and has no plan to return to Europe.
Her Gambian husband, Lamin, once took the back way to Europe and nearly died. They told us of their concerns for the future of Gambia….
"The children just want to use the phones and take pictures and see how people elsewhere are living. That encourages them to leave Gambia by taking the back way to Europe. They have no respect for their parents and don't listen to them because their parents cannot even read or write or even use a phone. The kids think they can find all answers using their phones. No need for education. So many young people have left Gambia that there are not enough to grow food…much land is idle."
It was a depressing view that we can only hope is not accurate."
Our second day here, a driver picked us up and first we ask to stop at an ATM. First two didn't work. While pulling up to another nearby one, a police office same over & started demanding something from our driver. A heated five minute argument followed. Our driver told us to get out and try the ATM while he sorted out the problem at the nearby police station. With a bit of help from the ATM attendant, we successes in getting money. Not long after, we spotted our driver who said all was well—the police captain knew him so no problem. As he said, Gambia is a small country and it doesn't take long to find someone you know. Evidently the fact that he and Rog did not have their seatbelt on between our ATM stops, was the problem. Cracks me up as you can see people hanging out the back of vans, riding on top of truck loads, piled on donkey carts…and they stop you for no seatbelt!
So we headed to Makasutu—which the guide book called a Cultural Forest. It too—like so much of what we've seen is past it's prime—even though it only opened 30 years ago. Most of what we were suppose to see wasn't there anymore. Two steps forward. One & a half back. That seems to be the reality here. They blame it on Covid but by the looks of things…Covid only added a bit to the backward direction. We took a boat ride through the mangroves & saw a few birds. Watched a man climb to the top of a palm tree to tap it for juice. A buffet lunch of African food was served…mostly cold but Rog liked it. While we ate, musicians played & one danced. Always tips are expected: boat paddles, climber, musicians, guide & driver. Adds up but it's the way workers here get their pay. We're told only gov't jobs have wages. Only the baboons who surrounded us while we ate didn't ask for tips!
Here's Roger's thoughts:
"Kachadulaa Garden 2/7/22
The German lady who owns this place used to be a cook on a ship for East Germans. She learned to cook very well because they told her they would throw her over the side if the food was bad. A joke, I hope!
She (Mariama) came here after living for some time in Sweden, but now considers Gambia her home. Her friend, Carrie, lives a short distance away and comes to help with the kitchen work and waits tables. There are often many Europeans here for evening meals as Mariama is a great cook and offers dishes that are not commonly available here. Chicken Schnitzel, Ribeye steak, potato salad, etc.
Visiting with them we found that Carrie is in Gambia because she was being pressed to be vaccinated in Sweden and chose to leave rather than comply. She seems very content with her life here.
Mariama walks with a limp and says that she came here because the weather here allows her to move without pain. She has a Gambian husband and has no plan to return to Europe.
Her Gambian husband, Lamin, once took the back way to Europe and nearly died. They told us of their concerns for the future of Gambia….
"The children just want to use the phones and take pictures and see how people elsewhere are living. That encourages them to leave Gambia by taking the back way to Europe. They have no respect for their parents and don't listen to them because their parents cannot even read or write or even use a phone. The kids think they can find all answers using their phones. No need for education. So many young people have left Gambia that there are not enough to grow food…much land is idle."
It was a depressing view that we can only hope is not accurate."
Our second day here, a driver picked us up and first we ask to stop at an ATM. First two didn't work. While pulling up to another nearby one, a police office same over & started demanding something from our driver. A heated five minute argument followed. Our driver told us to get out and try the ATM while he sorted out the problem at the nearby police station. With a bit of help from the ATM attendant, we successes in getting money. Not long after, we spotted our driver who said all was well—the police captain knew him so no problem. As he said, Gambia is a small country and it doesn't take long to find someone you know. Evidently the fact that he and Rog did not have their seatbelt on between our ATM stops, was the problem. Cracks me up as you can see people hanging out the back of vans, riding on top of truck loads, piled on donkey carts…and they stop you for no seatbelt!
So we headed to Makasutu—which the guide book called a Cultural Forest. It too—like so much of what we've seen is past it's prime—even though it only opened 30 years ago. Most of what we were suppose to see wasn't there anymore. Two steps forward. One & a half back. That seems to be the reality here. They blame it on Covid but by the looks of things…Covid only added a bit to the backward direction. We took a boat ride through the mangroves & saw a few birds. Watched a man climb to the top of a palm tree to tap it for juice. A buffet lunch of African food was served…mostly cold but Rog liked it. While we ate, musicians played & one danced. Always tips are expected: boat paddles, climber, musicians, guide & driver. Adds up but it's the way workers here get their pay. We're told only gov't jobs have wages. Only the baboons who surrounded us while we ate didn't ask for tips!
Gambia #10
Paradise Beach…very appropriately named. Next to turquoise waves and a flat solid beach surface easy to walk on. Sand is fine, barely tan & mixed with tiny diamonds that sparkle. In the distance you have a view of Sanyang fishing village. Only a few other have found this gorgeous place. Breakfast is anytime; coffee, eggs & bread. We order a meal around 2 which is delicious fresh fish. We read and listen to pod cast while lying on the beach under palm trees. Occasionally, local girls will come to sell fruit which we enjoy later with our pb sandwiches. The girls often plop down besides us and chat…giving them a rest & shade and us a chance to hear about their lives and dreams. They play with my hair…so opposite of theirs. Young men on the beach play soccer, exercise and run. When I asked why they exercise, they tell me they want to build strong bodies which will helps their brains, give them longer lives and maybe a chance to win $$ at soccer. I listen to their many hopes and dreams…and worry for them. On the weekend, several large groups lugged grills, food, drinks, radios, speakers, drums and babies to the beach ready to party! No one swims but many play in the waves and take selfies. Their drumming and music sills the air until late. Surprisingly there seems to be no ocean spray & few mosquitoes. Five days here was a bit of Paradise!
Gambia #9
From Roger's pen:
We have been thinking about the economy here. Many people survive by selling vegetables or small items to their neighbors. They would love having the opportunity to get a good job. Improving the Gambian economy might be disastrous for the people and their culture.
If the country were to be modernized, it would mean better transportation, health care, education, more employment, industry, infrastructure, etc.
It would also bring addtional pollution and other problems that come with modernization. Likely their culture would suffer, tribal values may lose importance, and languages would change or disappear.
As the question of modernization looms, many Gambians have seen the possibility of a better life. They have decided to take "the back way to Europe" in search of opportunity, because they don't find it here.
They sail North along the coast in a desperate attempt for a better life, but often the boat does not reach its destination and is lost.
If they miraculously do reach Europe, the problems of proper identification, visa, etc. may still derail their plans.
Nearly everyone here knows several who have taken "the back way"…never to be heard from again.
We have been thinking about the economy here. Many people survive by selling vegetables or small items to their neighbors. They would love having the opportunity to get a good job. Improving the Gambian economy might be disastrous for the people and their culture.
If the country were to be modernized, it would mean better transportation, health care, education, more employment, industry, infrastructure, etc.
It would also bring addtional pollution and other problems that come with modernization. Likely their culture would suffer, tribal values may lose importance, and languages would change or disappear.
As the question of modernization looms, many Gambians have seen the possibility of a better life. They have decided to take "the back way to Europe" in search of opportunity, because they don't find it here.
They sail North along the coast in a desperate attempt for a better life, but often the boat does not reach its destination and is lost.
If they miraculously do reach Europe, the problems of proper identification, visa, etc. may still derail their plans.
Nearly everyone here knows several who have taken "the back way"…never to be heard from again.
Saturday, February 4, 2023
Gambia #8
Up early and headed toward Georgetown. Buba and Miriana are quite a pair teasing each other and laughing all the time. Buba said, "If you're looking for trouble, you will have it with a Gambian woman." Miriana says Buba is a naughty boy…but a good dancer. They told us some of their tribe traditions. Buba is Fula. His 5 yr old son recently got circumcised and there was a huge celebration.. He then took him to a month-long school with 10 other newly circumcised boys. They will lay quietly with loose clothing for days listening to rules about proper behavior…especially respecting others. They won't bath while there. He says his son cries a lot but he calls him every day and looks forward to him coming home with good manners. Miriana tells us how important family is to her Mandinka tribe (& other tribes). They live together in compounds with wives joining their husband's. It's illegal to marry before 18. A man can marry up to 4 wives & he is careful not to favor one. He stays with a different one each week and that week she cooks lunch for the entire compound. Works for them!
About 11, we pulled off the main road & into a Fula family compound with. Mud houses/thatched roof, well, outdoor fire cooking area and no electricity. A pile of kids rushed out to meet us and soon surrounded us. We were escorted into a home which was filled with beds made of ceiba seed fiber. There was a woman pounding couscous to loosen the husk and be made into porridge for breakfast, a man who'd purchased a large bag of sugar & was making small bags for resale. Buying one day supply of most everything is all most can afford. Another made with a baby on her lap was shelling peanuts. She gave us a big bag & we slipped her some $$. Being Fula, she had decorative marks burned on her face & lots of earrings. Miriana brought out a bag of suckers & cookies and was mobbed as she passed them out. When that excitement died down, I blew up a ballon and tossed it up. The wind carried it & the kids chased it hitting it back up when it came down. Hearing that they would get no education made me a bit sad but how would it change their culture if they did? Is it right to think that would be best for them? Miriana says education is better than gold or silver.
Our next stop was Wassu round stone circles. Basically a grave for past chiefs. We drove on passing many broken down vehicles on the side of the road, meeting big trucks from Senegal and over loaded taxi vans. Amazing how high they stacked the loads on top. One even had two goats on it! When we arrived at River Gambia Nat'l Park, we braved the rickety dock to climb into a boat and head to Bamboo Island where chimpanzees are being relocated. We saw a few of those big boys up in the trees. We made a quick turn-around when we spotted 6 hippos. Bigger boys! We gave them plenty of space to put on a show for us. Buba teased Miriana saying we say 7. She got him back later saying he had chicken muscles. We continued east turning off just before Georgetown. The road was barely a driveway with massive holes & overgrown brush. Where were we going?? Monkeys greeted us as mud huts came into view. Our hotel. Even more scarce. No electricity. No water. We watched the monkey's antics for a bit and visited with a couple from Holland. They had spent the day visiting the family the man had lived with 30 years ago through Peace Corp. He was a U of M grad! They started cooking supper but since I'd been fighting a cold, I just ate a piece of bread with my peanut butter & crashed. For breakfast, they had fresh donut holes which were delicious & omelets. We fed the monkeys some peanuts & slowly made our way back to the main road. The ferry to Georgetown was close by so that's where we went. Georgetown is an island city. So many others with bags of stuff bought or ready to sell at the market. Horses, donkeys, goats & sheep mingled with women dressed so colorfully & elegantly many with babies tied around their waist. When the ferry arrived, Buba drove on & then all the passengers loaded. A short ride & we were there…right next to the building where slaves were held & sold. A guide led us down into a dungeon & told the story. Here they were for 14 days, chained if aggressive, a hole dug to low tide sea level used as water source. During high tide the water & all their waste was up to their chest. Food was shoveled down holes at the top. More than half died & were fed to the crocodiles. Those who survived were weighed & that determined price. Women's tits were squeezed for firmness. Teeth were examined. The purchased slaves were loaded on boats where another half would die. Slaves from Africa were more valuable because of their strength. Slaves from India were much weaker. Of course we knew this story….but sitting in the dungeon with the great grandson of someone who'd probably been there was a chilling experience. Letter we would talk to Buba & Miriana about it. They said what is past is past. Africans were to blame as well. They captured people from other tribes to sell for tea, metal, jewelry and mirrors. Mirrors to admire themselves in. How sad. They said in a way, there are still slaves today as nephews are often made to work for uncles without pay.
A little ways down the road, we came to the first Methodist church in sub- Sahara Africa planted in 1824. Nothing impressive. Actually the sign was rusty, bent over and barely readable. But it gave me a warm feeling the Methodist love reached this island where such deployable acts took place. It also made me sad the my own Methodist church has chosen to split from that founding church. A school was built in 1927 for the sons of chiefs and later others. The boss of our tour is currently building a huge hotel/conference center here in Georgetown so we stopped to see it. Such a huge dream1. Big restaurants on the roof top, elegant stairway & a pool. He plans to encourage boat trips from Banjul to here on mini cruise ships. You look around at all the crumbling, undeveloped surroundings and wonder, how is this dream going to be a reality???
We had a long ways to go so we made few stops but talked lots…about even politics and religion as freely as anything else. Gambia just ousted a president who'd ruled for over so yrs who was actually doing lots of good things like paved road, bridges, more women rights, better litter control (which they desperately need)—but at the expense of freedom. Many people just disappeared. No one felt they could disagree with anything. Senegal armed forces were invited to protect the president's home region where green flags flew everywhere in his support. He made it known he wanted to be named king & have his family continue reigning. He didn't accept the election results & was forced to flee the country. The new president is not getting as much done but the people are much happier. Gambia is mostly a Muslim country & every town has a mosque & you can her them calling people to pray 5 times a day. Many kids go to Muslim schools where they mostly just learn the Koran. Muslims don't drink alcohol so that eliminates lots of problems. Miriana's take on Christians vs Muslims: One God. Same. Same.
The country that surrounds them, Senegal is called a sister country and they have the same 7 or so tribes. Borders between them is open as most have family on both sides. Senegal is more developed.
We were getting close to where we'd booked an Airbnb so Miriana tried the contact number we were given. After several calls & a bit of arguing, she finally got it the right person with the right directions. Again we took what was barely a driveway quite a distance in search of our Airbnb. Actually found it…on a gorgeous beach. The caretaker hadn't got the message we were coming until a bit before we arrived and had no room vacant. He quickly re-did their store room that was almost finished.A bed, couch, table & chairs soon appeared and walla—a room for us for the next 5 days. toilet, Wi-Fi, water are usually working so we're happy. We were served almost cold cokes & since we had some left over bread, we ate pb sandwich & welcomed a most softer bed!!
About 11, we pulled off the main road & into a Fula family compound with. Mud houses/thatched roof, well, outdoor fire cooking area and no electricity. A pile of kids rushed out to meet us and soon surrounded us. We were escorted into a home which was filled with beds made of ceiba seed fiber. There was a woman pounding couscous to loosen the husk and be made into porridge for breakfast, a man who'd purchased a large bag of sugar & was making small bags for resale. Buying one day supply of most everything is all most can afford. Another made with a baby on her lap was shelling peanuts. She gave us a big bag & we slipped her some $$. Being Fula, she had decorative marks burned on her face & lots of earrings. Miriana brought out a bag of suckers & cookies and was mobbed as she passed them out. When that excitement died down, I blew up a ballon and tossed it up. The wind carried it & the kids chased it hitting it back up when it came down. Hearing that they would get no education made me a bit sad but how would it change their culture if they did? Is it right to think that would be best for them? Miriana says education is better than gold or silver.
Our next stop was Wassu round stone circles. Basically a grave for past chiefs. We drove on passing many broken down vehicles on the side of the road, meeting big trucks from Senegal and over loaded taxi vans. Amazing how high they stacked the loads on top. One even had two goats on it! When we arrived at River Gambia Nat'l Park, we braved the rickety dock to climb into a boat and head to Bamboo Island where chimpanzees are being relocated. We saw a few of those big boys up in the trees. We made a quick turn-around when we spotted 6 hippos. Bigger boys! We gave them plenty of space to put on a show for us. Buba teased Miriana saying we say 7. She got him back later saying he had chicken muscles. We continued east turning off just before Georgetown. The road was barely a driveway with massive holes & overgrown brush. Where were we going?? Monkeys greeted us as mud huts came into view. Our hotel. Even more scarce. No electricity. No water. We watched the monkey's antics for a bit and visited with a couple from Holland. They had spent the day visiting the family the man had lived with 30 years ago through Peace Corp. He was a U of M grad! They started cooking supper but since I'd been fighting a cold, I just ate a piece of bread with my peanut butter & crashed. For breakfast, they had fresh donut holes which were delicious & omelets. We fed the monkeys some peanuts & slowly made our way back to the main road. The ferry to Georgetown was close by so that's where we went. Georgetown is an island city. So many others with bags of stuff bought or ready to sell at the market. Horses, donkeys, goats & sheep mingled with women dressed so colorfully & elegantly many with babies tied around their waist. When the ferry arrived, Buba drove on & then all the passengers loaded. A short ride & we were there…right next to the building where slaves were held & sold. A guide led us down into a dungeon & told the story. Here they were for 14 days, chained if aggressive, a hole dug to low tide sea level used as water source. During high tide the water & all their waste was up to their chest. Food was shoveled down holes at the top. More than half died & were fed to the crocodiles. Those who survived were weighed & that determined price. Women's tits were squeezed for firmness. Teeth were examined. The purchased slaves were loaded on boats where another half would die. Slaves from Africa were more valuable because of their strength. Slaves from India were much weaker. Of course we knew this story….but sitting in the dungeon with the great grandson of someone who'd probably been there was a chilling experience. Letter we would talk to Buba & Miriana about it. They said what is past is past. Africans were to blame as well. They captured people from other tribes to sell for tea, metal, jewelry and mirrors. Mirrors to admire themselves in. How sad. They said in a way, there are still slaves today as nephews are often made to work for uncles without pay.
A little ways down the road, we came to the first Methodist church in sub- Sahara Africa planted in 1824. Nothing impressive. Actually the sign was rusty, bent over and barely readable. But it gave me a warm feeling the Methodist love reached this island where such deployable acts took place. It also made me sad the my own Methodist church has chosen to split from that founding church. A school was built in 1927 for the sons of chiefs and later others. The boss of our tour is currently building a huge hotel/conference center here in Georgetown so we stopped to see it. Such a huge dream1. Big restaurants on the roof top, elegant stairway & a pool. He plans to encourage boat trips from Banjul to here on mini cruise ships. You look around at all the crumbling, undeveloped surroundings and wonder, how is this dream going to be a reality???
We had a long ways to go so we made few stops but talked lots…about even politics and religion as freely as anything else. Gambia just ousted a president who'd ruled for over so yrs who was actually doing lots of good things like paved road, bridges, more women rights, better litter control (which they desperately need)—but at the expense of freedom. Many people just disappeared. No one felt they could disagree with anything. Senegal armed forces were invited to protect the president's home region where green flags flew everywhere in his support. He made it known he wanted to be named king & have his family continue reigning. He didn't accept the election results & was forced to flee the country. The new president is not getting as much done but the people are much happier. Gambia is mostly a Muslim country & every town has a mosque & you can her them calling people to pray 5 times a day. Many kids go to Muslim schools where they mostly just learn the Koran. Muslims don't drink alcohol so that eliminates lots of problems. Miriana's take on Christians vs Muslims: One God. Same. Same.
The country that surrounds them, Senegal is called a sister country and they have the same 7 or so tribes. Borders between them is open as most have family on both sides. Senegal is more developed.
We were getting close to where we'd booked an Airbnb so Miriana tried the contact number we were given. After several calls & a bit of arguing, she finally got it the right person with the right directions. Again we took what was barely a driveway quite a distance in search of our Airbnb. Actually found it…on a gorgeous beach. The caretaker hadn't got the message we were coming until a bit before we arrived and had no room vacant. He quickly re-did their store room that was almost finished.A bed, couch, table & chairs soon appeared and walla—a room for us for the next 5 days. toilet, Wi-Fi, water are usually working so we're happy. We were served almost cold cokes & since we had some left over bread, we ate pb sandwich & welcomed a most softer bed!!
Thursday, February 2, 2023
Gambia #7
Our truly cultural adventure began on Monday at 7 am. Buba, our driver picked us up and soon we picked up Miriana who was our guide. She was chocked full of information which she freely & rapidly shared with us as we drove along the main E-W road which was only paved 8 yrs ago. It was very smooth sailing except for slowing down for speed bumps, Irish crossings (valley built in road), town barricades (tires & anything resembling a gate), police stops, military stops with weapons showing, donkey carts and cattle, goats & people crossing the road. We drove through many congested market areas later stopping at Farafenni Market just to immerse ourselves into that experience. We passed lots of mango, orange & baobab trees and though they had huge bundles of sticks and piles of bags stuffed with charcoal made from wood, Mariana was quick to note that Gambia know the value of trees and there were many rules about cutting them. Most irons have an opening to put hot charcoal in. The rice and peanut fields are dormant now and used for grazing cattle and goats. In the rainy season they will flourish. Peanuts & fish are the main export crops. We arrived at Tendaba camp around 11, settled into our pretty sparse rooms & ate some breakfast left in the buffet. Then we climbed into the back of a 3 wheeler with a box behind for seats. A guide from Tendaba joined us and we got jostled about for almost an hour before arriving to a water hole in Kiang West Nat'l Park. We soon heard bamboos parking & then saw a large family in the distance. We headed to another water hole where we saw a herd of bush hogs. As we walked around, we scared up an antelope. Another bumpy ride back and I could hardly walk to my bed. Not sure I'd recommend that safari to anyone. Lunch was fried chicken/ff for me & yassa for Rog. Around 5, the Tendaba tide met us and we climbed way down a precariously old ladder into a boat & crossed the wide Gambia River. When we came to an opening in the mangroves, we turned into what was bird paradise! Thousands of them! Kingfishers, cormorants, spoonbill, storks, purple & great white heron, egrets, ibis, terns and so many I can't name but admired their brilliant colors. The funniest was the snake fish that dis look just like snake when it was swimming! On the shoreline, we saw crabs, a crocodile & a mongoose! I didn't want it to end but we headed back just as the sun set. Perfect. A dinner buffet was set up as there's a health conference being held here at the lodge with about 50 people. We slept on a hard bed under a mosquito net. The real Gambia experience.
Sunday, January 29, 2023
Gambia #6
On Friday, Rog biked to the bike shop to pay for the parts he'd put on the Gunjur Project bikes and then headed out to explore. Here's his writing:
" As I was a riding through the local neighborhood, I came across several boys walking toward me. The boys are sent out to the bush to cut firewood so they carry sharp machetes. I stopped and one of the boys (in the red gillie suit) came right up to me slapping the blades together many times making very sharp and threatening sounds. 🙈I laughed and asked him if it would be OK if I snapped his photo. I was a bit relieved when he agreed. 😀 I have now learned that when a Mandinka child is circumcised they send out someone to chase away evil spirits. He is called a kankaran.
As I continued through the neighborhood, I came upon a lush garden filled with onions, tomatoes, peppers, and more. The kids were very happy to pose for a photo."
I went off to school. The head master ask me to write in the visitor's book which asked for name, country, comments and suggestions. At the end of morning assembly, he awarded me with certificate and read aloud what I had written. I got what they always do-"a big clap, and another and then a bigger one." I spent time in each classroom soaking up their smiles and watching them excitingly explore books! As the kids left, I gave them each a candy & said goodbye. I then talked individually to each teacher leaving them with a suggestions and asked them to share with the others and then gave them a handful of candy. It would be wonderful to see if they use the suggestions but I suspect, rote learning will remain the main teaching method. Several kids joined me on my walk back to Gunjur Project. One 10-12 year old asked me to teach him. So we sat down on a shaded ridge & I typed words on my phone for him to read and then put them into a sentence. We also did a few math problems. He was a smart boy eager to learn! By then, several kids had gathered so I played "Doggie, Doggie where's your shoe?" (Using his shoe—why not?). They loved it. I also showed them how to play thumb war. Both of these games I had taught kids/teachers at school. I love teaching these simple games in hopes it'll bring them some fun. Back at GP, the pool was calling. Then I finished up organizing & straightening the GP library. We said goodbye to Mark & Carol and now it's just us. The staff is working hard preparing for a big group coming in a few days. Sat & Sun were down days. We researched plans for the next two weeks and met with Jenny who set up a 3 day trip to the interior of Gambia with a driver she approved of. We did a bunch of calculating to figure out how many dalasi we needed to pay our bill here plus $50 tip, the next 3 day trip, set up a bike fund of $75 for Mary Jo gave me $$ before we left and then have some dalasi to buy food/taxi rides etc when we get to our airbnb after our trip. Total was 77,000 dalasi ! We paid Jenny via PayPal and she then handed us 4 huge wads of dalasi. Felt like we'd robbed a bank!! Rog replaced a tube on a GP bike giving the old tube to Brendan saying he knew he'd find a use for it!
We then did some repacking so we could be down to just 2 suitcases having given away books, teacher supplies, bike pump & patches. Both days were hot so we took several dips in the pool. Rog went out for more bike rides while I caught up on my writing. Which I now am! Tonight we will order sweet & sour chicken again because it's the best we've ever tasted and of course, they'll serve us some delicious cake with ice cream! We have loved this place and all it does for this community and to the volunteers they encourage to come. We found a gem in Gambia!
" As I was a riding through the local neighborhood, I came across several boys walking toward me. The boys are sent out to the bush to cut firewood so they carry sharp machetes. I stopped and one of the boys (in the red gillie suit) came right up to me slapping the blades together many times making very sharp and threatening sounds. 🙈I laughed and asked him if it would be OK if I snapped his photo. I was a bit relieved when he agreed. 😀 I have now learned that when a Mandinka child is circumcised they send out someone to chase away evil spirits. He is called a kankaran.
As I continued through the neighborhood, I came upon a lush garden filled with onions, tomatoes, peppers, and more. The kids were very happy to pose for a photo."
I went off to school. The head master ask me to write in the visitor's book which asked for name, country, comments and suggestions. At the end of morning assembly, he awarded me with certificate and read aloud what I had written. I got what they always do-"a big clap, and another and then a bigger one." I spent time in each classroom soaking up their smiles and watching them excitingly explore books! As the kids left, I gave them each a candy & said goodbye. I then talked individually to each teacher leaving them with a suggestions and asked them to share with the others and then gave them a handful of candy. It would be wonderful to see if they use the suggestions but I suspect, rote learning will remain the main teaching method. Several kids joined me on my walk back to Gunjur Project. One 10-12 year old asked me to teach him. So we sat down on a shaded ridge & I typed words on my phone for him to read and then put them into a sentence. We also did a few math problems. He was a smart boy eager to learn! By then, several kids had gathered so I played "Doggie, Doggie where's your shoe?" (Using his shoe—why not?). They loved it. I also showed them how to play thumb war. Both of these games I had taught kids/teachers at school. I love teaching these simple games in hopes it'll bring them some fun. Back at GP, the pool was calling. Then I finished up organizing & straightening the GP library. We said goodbye to Mark & Carol and now it's just us. The staff is working hard preparing for a big group coming in a few days. Sat & Sun were down days. We researched plans for the next two weeks and met with Jenny who set up a 3 day trip to the interior of Gambia with a driver she approved of. We did a bunch of calculating to figure out how many dalasi we needed to pay our bill here plus $50 tip, the next 3 day trip, set up a bike fund of $75 for Mary Jo gave me $$ before we left and then have some dalasi to buy food/taxi rides etc when we get to our airbnb after our trip. Total was 77,000 dalasi ! We paid Jenny via PayPal and she then handed us 4 huge wads of dalasi. Felt like we'd robbed a bank!! Rog replaced a tube on a GP bike giving the old tube to Brendan saying he knew he'd find a use for it!
We then did some repacking so we could be down to just 2 suitcases having given away books, teacher supplies, bike pump & patches. Both days were hot so we took several dips in the pool. Rog went out for more bike rides while I caught up on my writing. Which I now am! Tonight we will order sweet & sour chicken again because it's the best we've ever tasted and of course, they'll serve us some delicious cake with ice cream! We have loved this place and all it does for this community and to the volunteers they encourage to come. We found a gem in Gambia!
Thursday, January 26, 2023
Re: Gambia #5
Love it! What a gift you have given them. The gift to read. Glad you had such a great day
On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 1:41 PM Jane Boyce <janeboyce@live.com> wrote:
My birthday! Rog headed to the bike shop & I went to school where I spent the day in Level 1. At break, the head master asked if I had any suggestions. After praising him for much of what they are doing, I noted there was a lot of down time especially while the teacher is taking attendance & collecting lunch money. I also had noticed that the kids did not ever have the opportunity to look at books so why not then! I told him he'd have to firmly set ground rules & tell the kids books were a gift that should get the utmost care. I suggested the books to be sitting on their desk when they came in. He said he thought that was brilliant and he loved having visitors improve his school. I left hoping for the best. At dinner, the staff presented me with a birthday cake with two speakers. Delicious chocolate cake & ice cream was served to us and all the staff! Then a band came & played for us. It was only Carol & Mark and us but they put on a great show playing the kora, two sets of drums and had a singer. Two locals came over and started dancing & encouraged us to join them. We tried to mimic their moves. Rog said he felt like Steve Martin in the Jerk! The last song was a happy birthday to me. I spent the next hour responding to birthday messages and went to bed feeling very blessed.
Up and out the next morning Rog took another Gunjur Project bike to work on. He was walking it cause the gears were messed up. A young man stopped & helped him and then ask for payment. Fortunately he had his left over breakfast of French toast & a pb&j sandwich which the young man gladly took. As it turned out, the wife of one of the mechanics brought everyone lunch so Rog joined them happily. His words: They gave me part of a baguette and we all gathered around the dish which was put on the cement floor of the bike shop porch( our work area). Using just the bread everyone soaked up the spicy liquid and pulled out parts of the fish for their lunch. I shared a small amount. Pretty 🌶!
And me…I got the best ever belated birthday gift!! When I got to school, there were books on each kids desk! At the end of the morning assembly, the head master asked me to talk to the kids about the books. I told the kids that there was a gift on their desk & then explained the rules which the head master translated with much enthusiasm & emphasized the care needed. Then every kids went to their desk and quietly enjoyed books!! I went from room to room showing proper orientation, pointing out things in pictures and smiling from ear to ear. I later talked to the teacher who liked it also. One asked me to read to a small group and another to the class. I cleaned up each classroom library taking the books in poor shape to the office. Who knows how long these books had just sat there. So finally, books were a part of their days!!
Wednesday we were suppose to go on an outing but the Land Rover wouldn't start so Rog went off to the bike shop. I offered to help sort & straighten the Gunjur Project library. They have lots of books and it needed some TLC. We ate dinner with Carol & Mark again…which we have the last several nights as we are the only guest right now. They are travelers too so we have a lot to talk about. All of us are especially enjoying the sweet & sour chicken meal so it seems we order that most often. We all have devoured their desserts. Tonight it was coconut cake & ice cream. Sweet way to end the day!
Gambia #5
My birthday! Rog headed to the bike shop & I went to school where I spent the day in Level 1. At break, the head master asked if I had any suggestions. After praising him for much of what they are doing, I noted there was a lot of down time especially while the teacher is taking attendance & collecting lunch money. I also had noticed that the kids did not ever have the opportunity to look at books so why not then! I told him he'd have to firmly set ground rules & tell the kids books were a gift that should get the utmost care. I suggested the books to be sitting on their desk when they came in. He said he thought that was brilliant and he loved having visitors improve his school. I left hoping for the best. At dinner, the staff presented me with a birthday cake with two speakers. Delicious chocolate cake & ice cream was served to us and all the staff! Then a band came & played for us. It was only Carol & Mark and us but they put on a great show playing the kora, two sets of drums and had a singer. Two locals came over and started dancing & encouraged us to join them. We tried to mimic their moves. Rog said he felt like Steve Martin in the Jerk! The last song was a happy birthday to me. I spent the next hour responding to birthday messages and went to bed feeling very blessed.
Up and out the next morning Rog took another Gunjur Project bike to work on. He was walking it cause the gears were messed up. A young man stopped & helped him and then ask for payment. Fortunately he had his left over breakfast of French toast & a pb&j sandwich which the young man gladly took. As it turned out, the wife of one of the mechanics brought everyone lunch so Rog joined them happily. His words: They gave me part of a baguette and we all gathered around the dish which was put on the cement floor of the bike shop porch( our work area). Using just the bread everyone soaked up the spicy liquid and pulled out parts of the fish for their lunch. I shared a small amount. Pretty 🌶!
And me…I got the best ever belated birthday gift!! When I got to school, there were books on each kids desk! At the end of the morning assembly, the head master asked me to talk to the kids about the books. I told the kids that there was a gift on their desk & then explained the rules which the head master translated with much enthusiasm & emphasized the care needed. Then every kids went to their desk and quietly enjoyed books!! I went from room to room showing proper orientation, pointing out things in pictures and smiling from ear to ear. I later talked to the teacher who liked it also. One asked me to read to a small group and another to the class. I cleaned up each classroom library taking the books in poor shape to the office. Who knows how long these books had just sat there. So finally, books were a part of their days!!
Wednesday we were suppose to go on an outing but the Land Rover wouldn't start so Rog went off to the bike shop. I offered to help sort & straighten the Gunjur Project library. They have lots of books and it needed some TLC. We ate dinner with Carol & Mark again…which we have the last several nights as we are the only guest right now. They are travelers too so we have a lot to talk about. All of us are especially enjoying the sweet & sour chicken meal so it seems we order that most often. We all have devoured their desserts. Tonight it was coconut cake & ice cream. Sweet way to end the day!
My birthday! Rog headed to the bike shop & I went to school where I spent the day in Level 1. At break, the head master asked if I had any suggestions. After praising him for much of what they are doing, I noted there was a lot of down time especially while the teacher is taking attendance & collecting lunch money. I also had noticed that the kids did not ever have the opportunity to look at books so why not then! I told him he'd have to firmly set ground rules & tell the kids books were a gift that should get the utmost care. I suggested the books to be sitting on their desk when they came in. He said he thought that was brilliant and he loved having visitors improve his school. I left hoping for the best. At dinner, the staff presented me with a birthday cake with two speakers. Delicious chocolate cake & ice cream was served to us and all the staff! Then a band came & played for us. It was only Carol & Mark and us but they put on a great show playing the kora, two sets of drums and had a singer. Two locals came over and started dancing & encouraged us to join them. We tried to mimic their moves. Rog said he felt like Steve Martin in the Jerk! The last song was a happy birthday to me. I spent the next hour responding to birthday messages and went to bed feeling very blessed.
Up and out the next morning Rog took another Gunjur Project bike to work on. He was walking it cause the gears were messed up. A young man stopped & helped him and then ask for payment. Fortunately he had his left over breakfast of French toast & a pb&j sandwich which the young man gladly took. As it turned out, the wife of one of the mechanics brought everyone lunch so Rog joined them happily. His words: They gave me part of a baguette and we all gathered around the dish which was put on the cement floor of the bike shop porch( our work area). Using just the bread everyone soaked up the spicy liquid and pulled out parts of the fish for their lunch. I shared a small amount. Pretty 🌶!
And me…I got the best ever belated birthday gift!! When I got to school, there were books on each kids desk! At the end of the morning assembly, the head master asked me to talk to the kids about the books. I told the kids that there was a gift on their desk & then explained the rules which the head master translated with much enthusiasm & emphasized the care needed. Then every kids went to their desk and quietly enjoyed books!! I went from room to room showing proper orientation, pointing out things in pictures and smiling from ear to ear. I later talked to the teacher who liked it also. One asked me to read to a small group and another to the class. I cleaned up each classroom library taking the books in poor shape to the office. Who knows how long these books had just sat there. So finally, books were a part of their days!!
Wednesday we were suppose to go on an outing but the Land Rover wouldn't start so Rog went off to the bike shop. I offered to help sort & straighten the Gunjur Project library. They have lots of books and it needed some TLC. We ate dinner with Carol & Mark again…which we have the last several nights as we are the only guest right now. They are travelers too so we have a lot to talk about. All of us are especially enjoying the sweet & sour chicken meal so it seems we order that most often. We all have devoured their desserts. Tonight it was coconut cake & ice cream. Sweet way to end the day!
Tuesday, January 24, 2023
Gambia #4
It's the weekend! We climbed into the back of the Land Rover and headed out to visit Ibrahim at his home. He was happy to introduce us to his family, take a family photo, give us some fresh oranges and show us his bike shop he has at his home. Mostly a tool box & a pile of old bikes. Then we went to Kartong—a small busy village on the banks of a tributary to The Gambia River. It was nice to see where most people live, work & shop around here. We took a short boat ride passing Pelican Island (only 5 there) and checked out the oysters growing on the mangrove roots. We watched women digging for cackles which reminded Rog of a song he sang in grade school: "Singing Cackles & mussels, Alive, Alive Oh". He'd always wondered what cackles were. Roads here are mostly sand with major pot holes so when you reach a paved one…it's wonderful. We traveled in the back of the Land Rover with Omar telling us about what we're passing & shouting to most people we pass with both laughing every time. He says he doesn't need to know them to joke with them. We know two words in Mandinka: twobob (means white person derived from two bits-UK $) and minty (candy). We hear both often! Spent the rest of the relaxing and getting acquainted with Mark & Carol from Scotland. They'd spend they day doing workshops for local groups: Mark does photography & Carol taught how to make a hand bag with a pattern on a sewing machine to a group of young girls. Also Gunjur Project hired a soccer team to make cement blocks. They mixed up the cement by hand, poured it into a mold, then quickly pulled the mold off. All amazingly fast! They made 994 blocks in a few hours earning about $85 dollars which they'll use for soccer equipment. It seems Gunjur Project is helping out everywhere in this community!
Sunday we met up with Brandon (one of the owners) and a group of local kids he's gotten interested in birding. We walked with them to a local forest. We spotted lots of birds, plants with medicinal use, and a crocodile. We had a quick lunch then headed to Lamin Lodge….slowly. After jostling about for about an hour, we arrived. It is considered as one of the top sites to see. We were a bit unimpressed is an understatement. The boat ride was way more than we imagined…about $35 each. We got into a small boat along with Carol & Mark & Adama. We paddled about 20 minuted and then stepped out into the mucky ground. It was low tie. We slowly made our way until we came to a steam through the mangrove. We walked slowly, slipping often spotting mud skippers (frog head, fish body), oysters and crabs. We finally arrived at the main attraction: a huge Baobab tree which we crawled inside of. Of course we had to tip them too. Monday morning, Jenny (owner) had heard how much we paid and had Omar call them and renegotiate the price. It was the first time Adama had been there and they had way over charged us. Jenny gave us back half the money we'd spent saying she'd make sure that didn't happen again! We learned an important lesson that may help us when we're out and about on our own.
It's the weekend! We climbed into the back of the Land Rover and headed out to visit Ibrahim at his home. He was happy to introduce us to his family, take a family photo, give us some fresh oranges and show us his bike shop he has at his home. Mostly a tool box & a pile of old bikes. Then we went to Kartong—a small busy village on the banks of a tributary to The Gambia River. It was nice to see where most people live, work & shop around here. We took a short boat ride passing Pelican Island (only 5 there) and checked out the oysters growing on the mangrove roots. We watched women digging for cackles which reminded Rog of a song he sang in grade school: "Singing Cackles & mussels, Alive, Alive Oh". He'd always wondered what cackles were. Roads here are mostly sand with major pot holes so when you reach a paved one…it's wonderful. We traveled in the back of the Land Rover with Omar telling us about what we're passing & shouting to most people we pass with both laughing every time. He says he doesn't need to know them to joke with them. We know two words in Mandinka: twobob (means white person derived from two bits-UK $) and minty (candy). We hear both often! Spent the rest of the relaxing and getting acquainted with Mark & Carol from Scotland. They'd spend they day doing workshops for local groups: Mark does photography & Carol taught how to make a hand bag with a pattern on a sewing machine to a group of young girls. Also Gunjur Project hired a soccer team to make cement blocks. They mixed up the cement by hand, poured it into a mold, then quickly pulled the mold off. All amazingly fast! They made 994 blocks in a few hours earning about $85 dollars which they'll use for soccer equipment. It seems Gunjur Project is helping out everywhere in this community!
Sunday we met up with Brandon (one of the owners) and a group of local kids he's gotten interested in birding. We walked with them to a local forest. We spotted lots of birds, plants with medicinal use, and a crocodile. We had a quick lunch then headed to Lamin Lodge….slowly. After jostling about for about an hour, we arrived. It is considered as one of the top sites to see. We were a bit unimpressed is an understatement. The boat ride was way more than we imagined…about $35 each. We got into a small boat along with Carol & Mark & Adama. We paddled about 20 minuted and then stepped out into the mucky ground. It was low tie. We slowly made our way until we came to a steam through the mangrove. We walked slowly, slipping often spotting mud skippers (frog head, fish body), oysters and crabs. We finally arrived at the main attraction: a huge Baobab tree which we crawled inside of. Of course we had to tip them too. Monday morning, Jenny (owner) had heard how much we paid and had Omar call them and renegotiate the price. It was the first time Adama had been there and they had way over charged us. Jenny gave us back half the money we'd spent saying she'd make sure that didn't happen again! We learned an important lesson that may help us when we're out and about on our own.
Gambia #3
The next two days were very much like the day before with Rog at the bike shop and me at the school. Rog is impressed with Ibrahim who he says performs magic on bikes. He is learning lots from him and has been invited to his home. It's a busy place with people stopping by constantly and negotiating for bikes & parts. Teacher's are asking for suggestions but I hesitate to say too much…not that I don't have some! There's too much dead time and shouting lessons. Not enough books and no reading aloud. Only half the teachers are qualified but others are still going to school. Teacher's training here consist of going to classes during their breaks—about 3 months a year—for 2 years. Gunjur project sponsors some of their education. When I arrive in the morning, fun music is blaring as the kids play. At 8:30 the bell rings & kids line up for morning assembly…which last about 30-45 minutes. They sing lots of songs like If you're happy & you know it, Days of the Week & Months, and even You are my Sunshine! They also recite the date, review a color/shape/body part etc lesson, tell name of their town, country & president and finally sing the national anthem:
"For The Gambia, our homeland,
We strive and work and pray,
That all may live in unity,
Freedom and peace each day.
Let justice guide our actions
Towards the common good,
And join our diverse peoples
To prove man's brotherhood.
We pledge our firm allegiance,
Our promise we renew;
Keep us, great God of nations,
To The Gambia ever true."
We strive and work and pray,
That all may live in unity,
Freedom and peace each day.
Let justice guide our actions
Towards the common good,
And join our diverse peoples
To prove man's brotherhood.
We pledge our firm allegiance,
Our promise we renew;
Keep us, great God of nations,
To The Gambia ever true."
Wish those words become reality here…and everywhere.
They have a lesson plan prepared for the teachers from area complete with objectives and lots of interactive activities. Students & teachers shout and repeat most everything they say. Overall they seem very happy.
I've been walking the 1 km back each day which has allowed me to get a better feel for the area and a chance to get some nice pictures. A good lunch, cold Coke and cool pool awaits me when I get back around 2 …Rog about 3. We order dinner around 6…play cards while we wait and then feast on the delicious meal. Email, facebook, news and reading finishes up the day. Pretty perfect.
Friday, January 20, 2023
Gambia #2
Rested and ready to go, we took off for the local bike shop about a 20 minute walk. The shop is run by a man who has connection with a NGO that sends crates of old bikes & bike parts from UK. He and 2 other mechanics fix them and sell them for a very reasonable price. He also will house volunteers who come to work. Omar took us along with his own bike that needed repair. It didn't take Rog long to find his groove and soon was working right along with the others. He had Omar's bike fixed so he and I headed back as Rog now has a bike to ride to and from the shop! Happy boy! Omar filled me in on more Gambian culture info: men can have more than one wife, extended families live together in a compound—many owned by a family member who works in UK/US, very little alcohol as over 90% Muslim, only one university in Gambia, virtually no industry, farming is just to feed family with a bit left to sell to buy fish. Gunjur Project sponsors a women's garden which we walked through. Several wells had been hand dug complete with pulley & bucket to lower and then water rows & rows & rows of crops. Last rain was October & drought will last until July-Aug.
I took a dip in the cool pool, ate a chicken fajita sandwich, French fries & a cold Coke while I waited for Rog to get back. My plan to be at a school today was cancelled as school was closed for teacher training. Tomorrow…as they say in so many hot countries!
Next mornin Adana walked with me the km to the Kulukochi Community Pre-School. The headmaster gave me some background information about the school which opened in 2015 thanks mostly to the help they got from the Gunjur Project. Kids 4 - 8 who live in this area get a rich foundation in well-equipped classrooms. Curriculum is theme based with all four classrooms focusing on the same. Headmaster had a chart listing # of b/g and their tribes. Mandinka is the majority, Fula next with 5 others. He was enthusiastic and obviously loved his job. He had me join a Lever 1 class where a young girl, Laura from Germany was there fulfilling her volunteer obligation for 10 months. She was easy to talk to. I slipped in where I could and time flew. Adana & I headed back after the kids left around 12:50. We got picked up by is buddy driving a cab. A quick dip in the pool and another good lunch then some catching up in my blog filled the afternoon. Rog had a good time at the bike shop. He's enjoying working with the local guys and riding Omar's bike back & forth though it's a trick to ride on the sandy, rough roads & alleys but he's up to the challenge! He comes back tired but satisfied. The kitchen has been sending him a sandwich to take with him but he doesn't eat it til he gets back & then he jumps in the pool.
We've been eating dinner around 7 pm. Food is delicious & plentiful. We've had dessert every night—no weight loss for sure! Last night a kora player entertained us. It's an instrument with 11 strings. We go to bed tired and happy.
I took a dip in the cool pool, ate a chicken fajita sandwich, French fries & a cold Coke while I waited for Rog to get back. My plan to be at a school today was cancelled as school was closed for teacher training. Tomorrow…as they say in so many hot countries!
Next mornin Adana walked with me the km to the Kulukochi Community Pre-School. The headmaster gave me some background information about the school which opened in 2015 thanks mostly to the help they got from the Gunjur Project. Kids 4 - 8 who live in this area get a rich foundation in well-equipped classrooms. Curriculum is theme based with all four classrooms focusing on the same. Headmaster had a chart listing # of b/g and their tribes. Mandinka is the majority, Fula next with 5 others. He was enthusiastic and obviously loved his job. He had me join a Lever 1 class where a young girl, Laura from Germany was there fulfilling her volunteer obligation for 10 months. She was easy to talk to. I slipped in where I could and time flew. Adana & I headed back after the kids left around 12:50. We got picked up by is buddy driving a cab. A quick dip in the pool and another good lunch then some catching up in my blog filled the afternoon. Rog had a good time at the bike shop. He's enjoying working with the local guys and riding Omar's bike back & forth though it's a trick to ride on the sandy, rough roads & alleys but he's up to the challenge! He comes back tired but satisfied. The kitchen has been sending him a sandwich to take with him but he doesn't eat it til he gets back & then he jumps in the pool.
We've been eating dinner around 7 pm. Food is delicious & plentiful. We've had dessert every night—no weight loss for sure! Last night a kora player entertained us. It's an instrument with 11 strings. We go to bed tired and happy.
Gambia #1
We made it…48 hours after leaving home! Let me say from the get go…this blog will NOT be polished or spell checked or anything checked as I have spotty internet if any and therefore, I just want get 'er dun.
We left home on Fri the 13th…always a lucky day for us. We'd wondered since it'd had been such a worrisome fiasco getting our visas which ended with our passports in the lake…but that's another long story. We left our house at 10 am and Ben took us to the airport. Our first flight was canceled. Warning 3. We choice to take another flight to Montreal know our 2nd flight wouldn't be until tomorrow. Montreal had a snow & ice everywhere. We took an Uber to a hotel & slept well. Woke late & read until noon. Our next flight was to Paris which took off at 6 pm, 6 hours flight, 6 hour layover and then 6 hours to Banjur arriving at 9:30 PM, Sun 1/15…very tired. Lemin was there to take us to Gunjur Project. This is run by a family from UK who worked with at risk kids and thought they'd truly benefit from seeing how many other live and let them have the experience of helping those less fortunate. Since they couldn't find a secure and adequate place in Gambia…they decided to build one and then host groups & others who want to volunteer while they travel. Perfect fit for us.
Our room is quite nice with flush toilet, warm shower & fan. We slept well and ate a bountiful breakfast of omelets, potato sauce & orange juice. We met the owners; Jo, Butch, Brandon & Jenny who have been here 16 years and improving the community in so many ways! Omar took us for a walk around the neighborhood. We walked by hoes & stores where poverty was loud and clear. Trash was abundant. So sad plastic, cans & pampers replaced baskets, clay pots & cloth. Our walk took us to a gorgeous mosque which looked over the ocean. Most Gambians are Muslims. The ocean breeze was welcomed! A few kids frolicked naked in the waves Then we meandered through the fishing center. So many fish in humungous plastic bowls being cleaned by mostly women many with babies strapped to the backs or running about. Somehow many were carrying those bowls on their heads without holding on. How did they get them up there??? Hundred of colorful boats painted with unique designed were in the water and on the shore. Some being pushed onto the shore by men using chants to move in sync. Fish was being fried over coal fires & sold as we watched. In another cement building, thousands of fish were being smoked…can't imagine a hotter job. I felt like I was walking through a National Geographic documentary. Omar told us most were Mandinka and they didn't want us to take pictures so I tried to let the scene sink deep in my memory.
We got back to our room, laid on our solar beds with the fan blowing on us and it seemed even nicer than when we got here! Last week we were at the height of luxury in an all-inclusive resort in Cancun. Such a vast difference! Pizza & Yassa for lunch and Sweet & Sour chicken (fresh pineapple was divine) and benachin for dinner…you can guess who ate what. No Diet Coke so I drank Coke…poor me. We have weak or no internet but did get a few pictures sent to our kids. All is well in Gambia!
Monday, March 16, 2020
Wrap up & our flight home to find Jake in ICU
Eleven down...how many more trips to go?? I sure don't know.
Again we experienced a unique, enriching & wonderful trip. Having Ben & Jen with us for the first 2 weeks in itself made this trip extraordinary. To work beside them, see their excitement of being with the locals & the thrill of spotting animals in the wild! All priceless.
Mozambique poverty makes my heart hurt. Yet as in other poor countries, we find much joy. Joy in their everyday lives. We, of course, found joy in helping build new schools along side AHAH volunteers, playing with orphans & disabled kids, spending time with the Larsons & Iris missionaries.
South Africa has spectacular landscapes: felt covered mountains, roaring waterfalls, gorgeous flowers, rich crops & endless fabulous beaches. But we fear for it's future. Many of our Airbnb host shared much about the real South Africa...a 3rd world county with a 1st world veneer...that's cracking. The rich white own everything and the struggling blacks do the work. A black leader governs. The tension was always in the air.
Lesotho is a proud tiny country that is barely surviving & still living in the last century. Herding animals still common. They are tightly holding on to their traditions.
And Botswanan emerging as an African success story. Never had the white/black issue. Their middle class is increasing & mostly black shop in their brand new malls...or in the small vendors right in front of the malls. Several good roads with animals grazing on the side and mediums. Time spent with Em added the sprinkle on top.
The Coronavirus cut our trip 2 weeks short as news of travel bans & flight cancellation escalated. In spite of all the hype, we did not experience any precautions..no temps taken, no gloves/mask offered & no hand sanitizer available before or after flights. Not in any of the 4 airports we were in. Not even Detroit.
When we got to Canada, I put my US sim card in. A recent message from Sarah hit us like an asteroid. Jake had fallen and was in ICU. Ben (with Lysol spray bottle) picked us up, stopped & got us groceries, dropped us off at home and then he & Bekah left for Allegheny Hospital. We made the heart wrenching decision to stay home & self isolate. Did not want to take the chance of exposing Jake or his family to the virus.
Now three days later, Jake is still in ICU but improving and we're on the phone lots but still isolated.
What a strange blessing that we were on our way home when Jake fell...but can't be with him.
Life is so full of twist & turns. Our trips increase them making our lives richer, more fulfilling & exciting and open our eyes & hearts to many places & people in this increasingly shrinking world!
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Again we experienced a unique, enriching & wonderful trip. Having Ben & Jen with us for the first 2 weeks in itself made this trip extraordinary. To work beside them, see their excitement of being with the locals & the thrill of spotting animals in the wild! All priceless.
Mozambique poverty makes my heart hurt. Yet as in other poor countries, we find much joy. Joy in their everyday lives. We, of course, found joy in helping build new schools along side AHAH volunteers, playing with orphans & disabled kids, spending time with the Larsons & Iris missionaries.
South Africa has spectacular landscapes: felt covered mountains, roaring waterfalls, gorgeous flowers, rich crops & endless fabulous beaches. But we fear for it's future. Many of our Airbnb host shared much about the real South Africa...a 3rd world county with a 1st world veneer...that's cracking. The rich white own everything and the struggling blacks do the work. A black leader governs. The tension was always in the air.
Lesotho is a proud tiny country that is barely surviving & still living in the last century. Herding animals still common. They are tightly holding on to their traditions.
And Botswanan emerging as an African success story. Never had the white/black issue. Their middle class is increasing & mostly black shop in their brand new malls...or in the small vendors right in front of the malls. Several good roads with animals grazing on the side and mediums. Time spent with Em added the sprinkle on top.
The Coronavirus cut our trip 2 weeks short as news of travel bans & flight cancellation escalated. In spite of all the hype, we did not experience any precautions..no temps taken, no gloves/mask offered & no hand sanitizer available before or after flights. Not in any of the 4 airports we were in. Not even Detroit.
When we got to Canada, I put my US sim card in. A recent message from Sarah hit us like an asteroid. Jake had fallen and was in ICU. Ben (with Lysol spray bottle) picked us up, stopped & got us groceries, dropped us off at home and then he & Bekah left for Allegheny Hospital. We made the heart wrenching decision to stay home & self isolate. Did not want to take the chance of exposing Jake or his family to the virus.
Now three days later, Jake is still in ICU but improving and we're on the phone lots but still isolated.
What a strange blessing that we were on our way home when Jake fell...but can't be with him.
Life is so full of twist & turns. Our trips increase them making our lives richer, more fulfilling & exciting and open our eyes & hearts to many places & people in this increasingly shrinking world!
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, March 13, 2020
Just landed in Detroit
Made it to Detroit! We're planning to self quarantine. You can call us😊
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Wednesday, March 11, 2020
Update 40
Not much news here in Botswana...cows, goats & sheep are grazing on the side & medium of the A-1 highway, kids are hauling overstuffed backpacks to & from school, barbers & small time vendors are trying to keep cool in their make-shift shops, gas attendants carefully are cleaning windshields & pumping gas, people (almost all black) are shopping in the new malls, chicken & corn is grilling over the 1/2 barrel fire pits, mamas with babies strapped on their backs walk under umbrellas, dogs are outside barking, cells phones are everywhere, pot holes & speed bumps are slowing down traffic, nice houses are peeking over cement & electric fences, kids are rolling tires, termite mounds are growing, workers are hoeing in the corn fields, clothes are drying on the line, outhouse stand ready for use, cars are being washed under shade screens...all under a blazing sun.
It seems in stark contrast to what we see when we check the news in USA....election frenzy, stock market plummeting & Coronavirus exploding. Though we've tried to distance ourselves...how much farther away can we be??...we can no longer deny the chance of not being able to return and/or be quarantine in who knows where...if increasing each day. With just two weeks left...our plans to see Victoria Falls & visit Chobe Game Park...we're calling it quits and making a dash for home. We're leaving 3/12 & will hopefully be home 3/13...yup that's Friday the 13th. It's always been a lucky day for us...the day our 3rd was born.
We spend our last couple days with Em, at the day care center & then took a long drive. Really not much else to do around here. (No where else we've been has so little to do in it's capital city...even the locals don't have recommendations.)
It's been an amazing two months. Who could ask for more?!?!
Sent from my iPhone
It seems in stark contrast to what we see when we check the news in USA....election frenzy, stock market plummeting & Coronavirus exploding. Though we've tried to distance ourselves...how much farther away can we be??...we can no longer deny the chance of not being able to return and/or be quarantine in who knows where...if increasing each day. With just two weeks left...our plans to see Victoria Falls & visit Chobe Game Park...we're calling it quits and making a dash for home. We're leaving 3/12 & will hopefully be home 3/13...yup that's Friday the 13th. It's always been a lucky day for us...the day our 3rd was born.
We spend our last couple days with Em, at the day care center & then took a long drive. Really not much else to do around here. (No where else we've been has so little to do in it's capital city...even the locals don't have recommendations.)
It's been an amazing two months. Who could ask for more?!?!
Sent from my iPhone
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