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Sunday, March 25, 2018

Sunday

Blanding
Edge of cedars
Pioneer museum
Dinosaur museum
Hovenweep? Extra miles!
Four corners
Bluff motel
Bluff fort

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Saturday, March 17, 2018

Update 35 & Final Thoughts

Last Stop—Florida to play with Matthew and Chan for a couple of days.  What a treat to see how well they have bonded and are blossoming!!  We went with them to school where Matthew shines as well.  Mostly we just went for walks, built train tracks, tossed balls & watched Matthew consume lots of food...he eats anything:  seaweed crackers, pumpernickel croutons, & spicy soups.      It's amazing to think just a bit over a year ago he was in an orphanage!!   The weather was actually a bit cool (60-70) which helped climatize us to what we're headed for!

Final Thoughts—
Another winter trip over...our 10th.  I never would have imagined when we took our 1st trip to Kenya that it was just the beginning of many awesome adventures.  And I thank God for each & every one of them.  Many people ask me which was my favorite trip.  I can't pick as it is the mix and uniqueness of each that can't be separated from the whole.  Like a smoothie...each added fruit makes it better.
Puerto Rico...a diamond in the rough...cracked & chipped by the powerful Hurricane Maria.  The Puerto Rican's are struggling to rebuild.  Many patiently waiting 6 months for electricity & some water still.  We hit the jack pot connecting with Johanna & Mariely.  Strong woman who lined up jobs then joined us helping their community in Maunabo.    Each night for a month, I went to bed feeling a huge sense of satisfaction knowing we'd made a few lives better.  Hope seem to bloom around us.  It was a privilege to spend the money that our church, friends & family entrusted us with on needed items:  bedding, solar lights, cement and cleaning supplies.  It was exciting  to have the Slys, Sarah, Juli, Ben & Jen join us making it possible for more to get done & a chance to share a special bond with them as we cleaned yards, homes, repaired, rebuilt, roofed and mostly showed we cared.  Getting to spend time with our All Hands gang was an added bonus.  Sincere appreciation humbled as as we were smothered with hugs, notes, meals & gifts.  Often strangers stopped to tell us thank you just for coming to PR.   And those beaches...what a priceless reward for helping them!!    God certainly led us to the right spot and I feel incredibly blessed.
  But my heart aches for PR.  The needs seem overwhelming & the help dwindling.  Lack of tourist is adding to their dilemma. Though a US territory, they seem to be almost ignored...not important enough.  US makes the rules...like no import/export unless on US ships but they have no political voice.  And yet...we saw smiles, determination, pride & appreciation for each tiny bit of improvement. We saw neighbors helping neighbors.  It was an honor to work with them.
  As I watch the sunset out my plane window, I wonder where I'll see the sunrise next winter!

Monday, March 12, 2018

Update 34 pictures



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Update 34

Had an overnight in the quaint town of Ceiba on our way to catch the ferry to Culebra—another PR island paradise...except for the USNavy bombs again.   Smaller than Vieques and more arid...even some cactus.  Here golf carts are the favored mode of transportation for tourist...so we have spent hours jostled about touring the many beaches...each with their own unique flavor.  Zoni Beach is definitely our personal favorite:  50 yards deep & about a half mile long.  White sand, turquoise water, spattering of palm trees & even less beach bums.  Such a jewel & yet so NOT developed.  No hotels, no food stands.  Nothing.  The dirt road here is precarious even on a golf cart.  How does this  place not get noticed by developers?  When will it change?  The only town here is small & nothing to write home about (well, guess I am).  There's a small airport, ferry dock, a few shops & restaurants and a handful of food trucks.  The sign on one kinda tells the story:  Sometimes we're open.  Sometime we're not.  There's so few tourist here.  Locals say they hear that the tourist say maybe next year they'll come back after storm repairs are made...but locals say...they won't survive till next year without the tourist.  We did treat ourselves by dining at the nicest place in town:  Susie's.  It was fine dining which seemed so out of place here!  We are staying in an Airbnb that is built right on the bay.  Rustic but very comfortable & love hearing the waves lap the porch.  We wake to the roosters...they seem to have followed us everywhere in PR.  
We intended to snorkel but ran into too many saying it's not that good thanks to Maria & the northerly winds now.  So we just sit on the beach.  Soak up the sun & beauty & read.   Then move to another beach and repeat.  What a great way to spend our last days in Puerto Rico!

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Wednesday, March 7, 2018

Pictures


Update 33

We headed to El Morro & Fort San Cristobal in old San Juan.  Jen loved the rich history of this 500 year old massive forts.  Jen wanted at least a little bit of beach time so we headed for the same beach Ben had enjoyed while here only to find the road was closed as 30' waves on Sunday had covered the road with sand.  So we just stood on a cliff overlooking this wild Atlantic coast.  Kinda hurt to drop Jen off at the airport...we'd sure enjoyed having her here.
As we drove off, I booked an Airb&b downtown San Juan for tonight and then we called Reagan to wish her a Happy Birthday.  One of the hardest days not to be home...
It was time for Rog & I to come up with a plan for the rest of our time in PR & for me to get caught up on my writing !

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Update 32

After dinner on Saturday night, Dottie asked us if we'd be working on Monday...Rog & I told her it was completely up to Jen.  Jen mulled it over for a few minutes & then told Dottie...Yup, sign us up to work on Monday.  Dottie grinned, shook her head and said, "Soooo....you drank the Kook-Aid."  
So Monday a.m. we each got into different work vans but all ended up on a roof!  Ironically tomorrow Ben starts his new job as a salesman for Neighborhood Roofing!  But will he ever have the chance to overlook a deep gorgeous valley while working on a roof with many thousand feet drop off??  Harnessed up it felt...exhilarating!! Nice breeze too!
I think we'd all have been glad to have had one more or maybe two or more days to work.  At the evening meeting, I got to "Change the Board" to read not 32 but 33 completed roofs.    And as sit was our last night...we each were asked to say our good bye speech to the group.  Rog said lots of folks talk about ow they wish they could help but AHV were doing it.  I admired their vast backgrounds, ages & cultures that came together all with a caring heart & worked hard to accomplish much for those in most need.  Jen thanked them for a great first time experience & welcoming her into the AHV family.  She said she hoped she back with them somewhere, someday.  I had to pop up & point out that was my daughter-in-law!  After dinner, Jordon taught us how to play Grab It...an intense word game that soon had about a dozen spectators who couldn't help but join in.  Later, I had a fascinating conversation with Jared, a Huff Post journalist.  He strongly felt that since the USA had such a firm grip on the world's economy, we needed to take that responsibility seriously & do what's best for all the world...not just us.  Thinking about that, I climbed up the hill to our dorm & met a few new bunk mates...the constant ebb & flow of volunteers.  Two were PRicans.  
Tues morning...more goodbyes, exchanging email addresses & lots of hugs & even a few tears.  I'll really enjoyed Barb & Morgan.  Then we were off.
  Jen said she thought the AHV community was filled with the nicest people...but of course...they would be the ones who'd come to help others.  She was amazed how quickly she felt like they were good friends.  Jen felt they were so great with the locals & that the locals were so very appreciative.  And finally she said, "I'm glad I drank the Kool-Aid!"  

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Update 31

Sunday...free day.  We gobbled down Dutch pancakes prepared by the guy from...yup, Denmark.  Then we headed for Ponce & the ferry that'd take us to an island...if it had been running.  No go.   So on we drove, all the way to Cabo Rojo (SW corner).  We'd been told by Emily (whose grandparents live there) it had the most beautiful braces.  We'll Hurricane Maria changed that & no sun didn't help.  We drove right by San German where we'd thought we'd be taking Elin & Noah this year...instead we had Noah's mom.  Strange how things work out.  On the drive we stopped at a food truck for local cuisine.  We were so proud of Jen for tying almojabana, tostones, passidillas, ponchos, alcopurrias and of course, rice & beans...which is what she like best.  We meandered our way back to base which gave Jen a chance to see lots more of PR.  Just as we drove up to our base, we hit a broken curb and whishshshsh....flat tire.  Jen quickly took over (Woman Power) & with the help of Rog, Dan & Ken the tire was changed in no time.  Could not have been a better place to get a flat!  

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Update 30

Arrived at the airport in time to pick up Jen...and two All Hand tag-a-longs...one from Belgium (Emma) and other from Russia (Sveta).  We crammed in all the luggage plus pillows & sheet sets we'd picked up to use at base & off we went to Barranquitas.  Up, up, up, using switchbacks after switchbacks for about an hour & a half.  Pulled into the AHV base about 6 pm .  Dottie, (base director who we'd met in Denham Springs AHV base last year) was there to greet us & assign us to a bunk...Rog & I top bunk & Jen a lower one.  Two males & 4 females are our bunk mates...and new friends.  We settled in for a snore fest!
  Up at 6:30 & after a quick orientation, we fixed our breakfast, packed our lunch & were headed to a work site by 8.  Rog & Jen's crew cleaned out a house with a leaky roof.  Jen said it broke her heart to see the kid's toys & clothes having to be trashed.  Jane got garnished up & climbed up on an old leaking roof to remove the CGI (correlated galvanized iron).  Our homeowner sent over a huge lunch of rice/beans/chicken...most I saved for Rog's lunch tomorrow...and ate my peanut butter.  We all got back to base in time for a quick cold shower (only way to do it) and the 5:30 group meeting where each crew summed up their day's work.  I love the sense of pride & accomplishment that permeates throughout the room of about 60 volunteers.  After dinner that was prepared by local cooks (yup included rice & beans), we lingered & visited with other volunteers.  Such a diverse group with fascinating stories!  Amazing how quickly you feel like you've been friends for a long time.
  We had entertainment during night 2...Conor was laughing, yelling, whispering in English, Spanish & using Irish slang too.  All in his sleep.  We actually thought he had someone in bed with him!  When we teased him in the a.m....he was so very apologetic.  It sure got lots of laughs.  Rog was sent off to finish cleaning out the house he'd worked on yesterday.  Jen & I joined "Jesse's Crushing Crew" putting up rafters & purlins.  (Aren't you impressed with my new vocab :). The homeowner was there living in what was left of her home.  She was so very appreciative & spoiled us by making us delicious breakfast sandwiches & later bringing us Pringles & Coke (not Diet).  We'd been told that she had cancer & getting a roof was so her young son could live there was her dying wish.  Talk about pulling on our heart strings!  Jesse's  "Would You Rather x or y" questions & a kid racing his horse past us over and over  & the awesome view of the largest valley in PR were all bonuses to the satisfying work.  
  Saturday night's meeting & dinner was at Nado's...the local bar.  We stood in line waiting for hamburgers that were being grilled by a young man as he grooved & danced to music & slurped  down Medalla beers.  Jen even bought him a Medalla maybe to show how much she appreciated the hamburger or his dance move! Back at base, Rog & Jen played Scrabble with 2 mates...23 yr old Jordon cleaned their clocks!  So great to be back with All Hands people.

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Tuesday, March 6, 2018

Pictures








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Fwd: Update 29



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: February 28, 2018 at 10:21:29 PM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: Update 29

Sitting here in my beach chair, I get an overwhelming surreal feeling that I was plopped into one of those too perfect to be real beach paradise paintings.  The crystal clear, aqua-green  water lapping the powdery white sand all encircled by majestic palm trees...and not another soul (except Rog) in sight.  This is our 5th and last day on Vieques.  After an hour & half ferry ride, I'll be back to Puerto Rico mainland and their real world.  
Doubt I'll ever see another beach this perfect...but sure glad I had days to love it!

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Fwd: Update 28



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: February 28, 2018 at 10:14:48 PM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: Update 28

Now I've done the BIG 3:  rode an elephant in a  jungle, a camel in a desert and a horse on a Caribbean beach!  I'm one lucky gal!!  Rog didn't want to go so it was just my guide and me...sad for her because this is peak season & she usually is booked with 10 riders 2X a day...great for me to have my own private ride!  We'll be leaving Vieques tomorrow so I need to wrap up my Vieques notes:
-As we were about to drive off in our sporty red Jeep, the rental clerk said, "Don't lock the doors ever.  If it's locked, someone will think you have valuables in it & break a window.  They never steal vehicles cause...well this is a small island so there's no where they can go."
-Drove passed the bunkers—the Navy's left overs.  Also drove by the crumbling remains of a sugar beet factory & overgrown cotton plants...pre Navy remains.  Sobering.
-We chuckle over seeing over and over projects started but left in limbo like:  a bike path about 200 feet long in the middle of no where; huge concrete lifeguard stations only half built;  giant parking lots with handicap spots that locals say no one uses cause you can just drive right up to the beach, like we did.
-DTE is here!  Yup, Detroit Edition has lots of trucks & men here on Vieques!!  
-Hurricane damage here is obvious with poles down & anything not concrete damaged.  One girl said she describes it saying it was like a huge brush hog took off all the vegetation over 5' tall.
-After crossing multiple speed bumps (called death bumps by locals), the pavement ended & gravel road started.  About 1/2 mile later, we see one of those "Your Speed is xx" signs that's working!  Really??  Who would notice??
I love traveling the "path less traveled."

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Fwd: #41. On to Limon. #42. Wildlife in Tortuguera



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: March 13, 2017 at 6:27:25 PM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: #41. On to Limon. #42. Wildlife in Tortuguera

#41 On to Limon
Another bus ride gave me more time to take in the view.  Costa Rica is covered in shades of lush greens...from the mountains to the valleys.  We drove through miles & miles of banana trees with their blue bags bulging with ripening fruit.  Hundreds of Dole and Chiquita shipping boxes were stacked high as we got closer to the port of Limon.  We counted 11 cargo ships and a cruise ship in the harbor.  The majority of homes we see are cement with correlated roofs each with a dish on top and large covered front porches where comfy chairs wait for the owners.  One thing that interrupts this pleasant picture is the large number of homes & businesses with walls or fences topped with circular barbed wire...like a stretched out slinky with barbs.  Hope those can disappear soon.  Fried chicken &  seafood both served with rice and French fries are the staples here.  Yup both rice & FF!  As soon as we arrived at our hotel, we jumped in the pool & that's where we spent the next 6 - 7 hours taking a short break to walk the black, sparkling beach.   Glories way to spend a couple days!

#42. Wildlife in Tortuguero
On the east shore, there's a river/canal that runs from Moin to Tortuguero with just a narrow strip of land separating it from the Caribbean Ocean.  It took us over 3 hours by boat giving us a great chance to spot sloths, monkeys & many birds as well as much flora.  I do love boat rides!  Tortuguero is a Nat'l Park & can only be reached by boat.  It's claim to fame is 3 species of turtles lay their eggs here so birth to millions of turtles.  Though we missed the season, we soaked in the jungle taking a canoe ride that squeezed into small tributaries.  Besides more sloth, monkeys & birds, we also saw caiman staring back at us.  Gliding quietly, we listened to the howler monkey & many bird calls.  
The town of Tortuguero is small with just one main walkway.  Small homes are stuck between the town & beach.  It's a place where dogs, cats, chickens & kids freely roam.  It feels far from anywhere...especially far from our kids & kids who were together this weekend.  Wish we were with them...but here too!
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Fwd: #41. On to Limon. #42. Wildlife in Tortuguera



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: March 13, 2017 at 6:27:25 PM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: #41. On to Limon. #42. Wildlife in Tortuguera

#41 On to Limon
Another bus ride gave me more time to take in the view.  Costa Rica is covered in shades of lush greens...from the mountains to the valleys.  We drove through miles & miles of banana trees with their blue bags bulging with ripening fruit.  Hundreds of Dole and Chiquita shipping boxes were stacked high as we got closer to the port of Limon.  We counted 11 cargo ships and a cruise ship in the harbor.  The majority of homes we see are cement with correlated roofs each with a dish on top and large covered front porches where comfy chairs wait for the owners.  One thing that interrupts this pleasant picture is the large number of homes & businesses with walls or fences topped with circular barbed wire...like a stretched out slinky with barbs.  Hope those can disappear soon.  Fried chicken &  seafood both served with rice and French fries are the staples here.  Yup both rice & FF!  As soon as we arrived at our hotel, we jumped in the pool & that's where we spent the next 6 - 7 hours taking a short break to walk the black, sparkling beach.   Glories way to spend a couple days!

#42. Wildlife in Tortuguero
On the east shore, there's a river/canal that runs from Moin to Tortuguero with just a narrow strip of land separating it from the Caribbean Ocean.  It took us over 3 hours by boat giving us a great chance to spot sloths, monkeys & many birds as well as much flora.  I do love boat rides!  Tortuguero is a Nat'l Park & can only be reached by boat.  It's claim to fame is 3 species of turtles lay their eggs here so birth to millions of turtles.  Though we missed the season, we soaked in the jungle taking a canoe ride that squeezed into small tributaries.  Besides more sloth, monkeys & birds, we also saw caiman staring back at us.  Gliding quietly, we listened to the howler monkey & many bird calls.  
The town of Tortuguero is small with just one main walkway.  Small homes are stuck between the town & beach.  It's a place where dogs, cats, chickens & kids freely roam.  It feels far from anywhere...especially far from our kids & kids who were together this weekend.  Wish we were with them...but here too!
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Fwd: Update 27



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: February 28, 2018 at 10:10:23 PM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: Update  27

We'd heard a few "maybes" but we got the email proof now—Jen (Ben's wife) is coming!!  March 1!!  She wants to volunteer also so we sent a quick email to All Hands & it's looking like we can join their volunteers at the Barranquitas base.  We're thrilled!!

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Fwd: Update 21 pictures



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: February 19, 2018 at 12:54:42 PM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: Update 21 pictures


Mariely and Professor Rog

Fwd: Update 25



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: February 26, 2018 at 9:42:10 AM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: Update 25

Vieques!  Here is where the gorgeous beaches are!  We arrived in Isabella & after getting a few groceries, we sat waiting for a taxi.  Waiting...Rog asked a guy wearing a bright orange safety vest if knew when a taxi or public bus might arrive.  He said, "Just hop in my Jeep. I've got time right now to take you as I'm waiting for the rest of my buddies to finish working." (He was from the states working for an electric co.). He delivered to the door of our Airb&b.  Knew the place cause he'd just helped get it hooked up to electricity last week.  After Angie, our host, showed us around a bit, we settled in.  Black Sand Beach, one of the ones highlighted in tourist brochures, was close by & could only be reached by foot so off we went to find it.  We walked the road till we came to a large, impressive sign and about 8 cement steps down to creek bed.  At first you could walk beside the creek bed but before long we were walking in the creek and since I'd worn my flip flop, I slipping & sliding and getting agitated.  The brush was getting thicker.  You had to avoid horse manure.  The creek bed was turning to sticky clay.  I finally called it quits.  I couldn't believe this was the only way to one of the most well known beaches on the island!  Really???  We went back to our room & ate P & J sandwiches.  
Next morning, Angie took us to a car rental & we climbed in a red Jeep and took off looking for a beach.  We asked about getting to the Black Sand Beach and for real, that creek bed was the only way to reach it.  I've seen a black sand beach so forget that one.  We found Sun Beach...gorgeous!!!  And only 4 other people on a beach that was miles long. After setting up our beach chairs (provided by Angie), & opening our books, we were planted for the next many hours.  Only our hunger forced us to leave.  Found a busy spot overlooking the ocean and had a great seafood dinner.  Nice...
Next day...drove around the island finding another gorgeous beach...Prieta Beach (Secret Beach).  Again mostly deserted & picture perfect.  Spent hours there & when we got hot, the cool water was so refreshing.  Met a couple from NY there. They'd been coming to this island for years & were spending time each day cleaning the beach.  By the looks of the beach & huge pile of brush by the road, I'd say they'd done a fabulous job.  We talked about the fact that a beach like this would have huge high rises & restaurants galore on it if it were many place.  The NYers answer was so fitting:  "That's what we hate & love about PR.  Nothing gets done & that nothing gets done."  


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Fwd: Update 24



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: February 22, 2018 at 8:14:40 PM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: Update 24

We moved down the coast a bit and ended up in Loquillo.  It's right on the ocean and where lots of surfers come...but not now as it's their winter and the ocean is a bit wild & there's lots of riptides.  It is fascinating to watch the waves crash so close to shore that they seem do dance across beach.  After spending several days going from PJ's to bathing suit to PJ's, I feel refreshed.  We've been to El Yunque National Park to see the only two things open...a drive to the waterfall & a hike down to the river.  El Yunque is a rainforest region...it was nice to see so much new growth since the hurricane.  The visitor center was pretty much destroyed.  
Our Airb&b is decorated with loud paintings & bright colors.  It feels very PRican.  
As we walk/drive around this area, we are struck by the incongruous mixture of modern high rise condos, dilapidated structures, cleverly painted homes, deserted buildings, mural paintings on walls, piles of trash, wide beautiful beach, junked cars, new tricked out cars, upscale architecturally designed businesses beside ramshackle food carts.  Some damage due to the hurricane but a lot is due to what appears to be neglect.  It is depressing to see.  Hard to wrap your head around.  A place that should be such a paradise is not...at least certainly not in most areas we've seen.  Tomorrow we leave for the island of Vieques...about an hour ferry ride from Fajardo.  Maybe there we'll see "paradise."

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Fwd: Update 23



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: February 19, 2018 at 6:23:11 PM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: Update 23

Let the vacation begin!!  We've decided to spend our vacation money here in PR.  We found where the wealthier PRicans vacation!  We're in Loiza in an Airb&b at a multi-condo development:  2 pools, playground, meticulously clean grounds and a Pre Maria nice beach area.  Many PRicans are enjoying the good life here:  music blaring, kids dancing shaking every part of their bodies, grills smoking, birthday party with balloon & games and several tables with adults playing Dominoes.  It's a side of PR we hadn't seen yet and it is makes me smile. 
PRicans are such a mix of skin tones.  Original Taino tribe mixed with Spanish, then slaves & finally English.  We're told there's little discrimination between the skin tones.  We sure haven't seen any & here it's a true mix...except no English speaking Caucasians.  Perhaps someday that'll be way discrimination issue will disappear.  I can hope anyway!!

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Fwd: Update 22



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: February 19, 2018 at 6:02:58 PM AST
To: Jane boyce <janeboyce@live.com>
Subject: Update 22

We were headed to Old San Juan by 7:30 a.m and arrived just as the door to El Morro opened .  We walked the worn fort that has seen 3 major wars as I wondered why man always seems to be fighting each other.  Rog drove us to the perfect spot near the airport for lunch...ocean view with local cuisine.  Here the sand was like sawdust & a lagoon beckoned us in.  Juli reflected on her experience saying she found people kind, grateful and loving.  She was touched by the church service especially when they prayed over us.  She loved the almost daily rainbows...sometimes doubles...and especially the extremely vivid one we saw on our last day on our way to Old San Juan.  A nice thank you from above?!
After we dropped Juli off at the airport, we headed back for a long leisurely beach walk before Sarah needed to leave.  Then it was just the two of us...it'd been almost a month!
  we had to stop to renew our car rental & then stopped at a Wendy's to use their WiFi...and get a DCoke.  We'd try to set up a place for tonight yesterday but with spotty internet...nothing was confirmed yet.  Just as we sat down, I noticed a man with an All Hands shirt on sitting by the bus stop.  We went over to say hi.  Turns out he'd been waiting for 2 hours to catch a bus to the airport. His flight home to Tennessee was in less 1 1/2 hrs.  We grabbed our stuff, he jumped in the back seat and off to the airport we went again.  As he waved goodbye, my phone bonged indicating a new message...our reservations for tonight were confirmed.  A God wink as my sister, Beth would say!  
After Google map sent us on a goose chase, a local set us straight.  So I'm sitting here by a pool listening to the ocean waves and finally getting caught up on my writing.
  So much has happened this last month that it overwhelms me with gratitude and fills my soul.  Amen.  


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