Update 48: Introducing books

Subject: Update #48 Teaching Again

I only opened a book and they came...over 100 big & little ones sat in the dirt mesmerized by the words and pictures.  I simply love reading aloud to kids--and reading aloud to kids who don't have books or anyone to read to them--it's an absolute thrill!!  This time alone makes it all worth it!! 

 Rog and I have been pulling small groups of kids from the lower classes.  Some are just learning to write the letter A...others trying to learn to ID letters and a few ready for letter sounds.  Today we even worked a tiny bit on blending sounds in word families.  In the afternoon, we've been working with the 4th & 5th graders.  Rog is doing math & science.  I am reading aloud a story asking comp & inference question...discussing main idea, setting, characters & trying to make personal connections...a few catch on which I know when their eyes sparkle! 

 Trying to get any kid..young or old...to answer individually is like pulling teeth...like so many other students we have worked with in our travels.  But we coax with a smile and slowly some begin to speak.  

At recess & lunch, we play games, read aloud and sing songs.  Another countries kids have learned to play Doggie, Doggie;  Blue Bird, Blue Bird, London Bridges & Follow the Leader!  The only games we have seen them play is pick up sticks with pencils, drop kicking a ball and a jumping game called Jingle Jangle.  

According to the posted schedule, the youngest kids leave at 10, next group at noonand oldest at 2...though in the week & a half we've been here...it hasn't happened yet. Kids sent home cause boss calls teacher meeting or just cancels, rain is coming so need to leave in case streams flood, no water...or it's too hot.  During times when they are in session, kids randomly get up and leave to purchase something from nearby vendor or just go for a walk.  Since there are sooooo many in a class, don't think the teachers even notice. 

 K class is about 60, Prep class( between K & 1) has 76 & 1st grade 88...all sitting in a hot, shipping container!!!  Between the inconsistent and the conditions, it's a wonder they learn anything!!

Update #43- #48

My parents sent me these updates and asked me to send them out to you all.

43:

Subject: Update #43 Tembari-Trouble

Arrived at Tembari with lesson plans and materials to start teaching small groups of 15 first graders.  Playing follow the leader, we lead our group out under the shade of a tree.  We worked on letter ID & sounds & counting with finger ID.  Kids were very hesitant about answering or doing anything individually but the many parents sitting around kept encouraging them.  We were working with the second small group when we got word--school was closing early & there would be no school tomorrow (Fri).  Big boss was here and called a meeting.  So just like that, kids left...many walking home for over an hour having only been in school an hour.  Teachers and us sat around another hour guessing what was going to happen at the meeting.  Evidently this wasn't the first time.  Penny...who stated several times she was the founder & director...addressed the staff sternly and emphatically saying she is to make all decisions.  She said this was not the first warning for several of the staff and she would be terminating three of them.  She welcomed us and apologized to us for having to hear about these issues.  Several teachers tried to explained why they had called a previous parent meeting without her knowledge and why they had spent the $ we offered already.  She kept repeating...But I am the founder & director and I alone have the vision.  Hayward...her husband...said he knew we were coming...though we had no contact or knowledge of him or Penny.  Near the end of the meeting, Roger and I both spoke up saying we'd prayed to God to make sure our church funds were spent well and we felt arriving just as the teachers were in distress about what they'd do next...seemed to us the answer to our prayers.  As teachers, we totally understood their needs and could see it in every classroom.  We were glad to see the money put to good use immediately.  We complimented the teachers for doing so well in such challenging conditions.  Penny just said thank you for your input. After the meeting--while we waited for our ride--the teachers insisted on waiting with us.  They said they would continue to explain & probably no one would be fired.   We certainly hope not!!  We expressed our concerns but they dismissed them saying "We were like a drink of cold water for them."  Humbling.  We got back to our room about 1 and sweated the afternoon away by reading while lying on the floor wherever we could feel a small breeze.  Lucky for us we had our peanut butter, bread, apples...even a few cookies & cold milk...AND I had one cold Coke Zero saved for times like this!!  It was a looooooong afternoon.  After it cooled down, we visited with our landlord's family and some of the workers who have been working on this house.  It has been in the building process since 2012 and still looks like a construction site complete with piles of broken cement blocks, various torn bags, rears in multitude of sizes & shapes, piles of bits & pieces of lumber, 2 junk cars, 3 lazy dogs scratching and several quite pretty blooming plants.  Our view.

44:

Subject: Update #44 Cemetery & Wildlife Park

Since Penny called school off today, we asked Jr & Kay to take us to the Wildlife Park we'd read about--actually the only thing we'd read about in this area that interested us.  It had closed up months ago...but they knew of another.  On the way, we stopped at a WWII Memorial Cemetery.  Immaculate!  Each of the thousands of markers had a lovely blooming plant next to it and everyone was trimmed neatly.  Amazing!  Jr said it looked this nice because many Australians were buried there and it was cared for by them.  There was a good 3 D map of the Kokodo Trail where soldiers from PNG, Aus & US fought off the Japanese.  The wildlife park was also very well groomed and they were working on building a Ferris wheel, merry-go-round & playground.  I was excited to see the bird of paradise--deepest yellow& red colors with long slender tail feathers!  And another treat--tree kangaroos!  They have a thick & fuzzy looking fur.  Some had climbed way up in a tree so we could barely see them.  Later in town, I saw a couple people trying to sell caged baby tree kangaroos--poor things!!  One of the zoo keepers...who was deaf & didn't speak... followed us bringing out food so the animals would come closer...even the crocodile!  He climbed right into the cage, splashed his hand in the water & then petted the croc when it appeared!  One of his arms was noticeable crippled.  Wonder how that happened?! Around noon it was really hot--felt like we were in a frying pan--so we went to the Nat'l Library.  It was not so cool--or nice--but it had wifi!!  Caught up on news, emails & got off an update.  Always good to hear all is well at home.  Left looking for food and had to stop at 3 restaurants before finding one that had at least 1/2 of what was on their menu--it was like a KFC.  Final stop was JMart--mostly grocery store.  Got lots more water, bread & Coke Zero.  Came home to shower & sit in front of our fan.

45: 

Subject: Update #45 Port Moresby/Ear Problem/Heat & Books Galore!!

Kay was at church this am so we spent the am reading, sweating, writing, sweating, watching the dogs' tails swat flies, sweating, noticing each passing vehicle...and sweating.  It's hot.  Though I've always been a hot weather lover...think I found my max!  There really is no place safe to walk around here, so here we stay.  Heat really does diminish appetites.  We barely eat anything...even Roger!!  We make a pbj sandwich & nibble on it, slowly munch on some granola or peanuts...but guzzle down water...which we purchase every time we go to town.  Water is being rationed in Port Moresby area...turned off from 8 - 2 ...which of course we learned when we tried to shower around 8:15.  Kay & Jr picked us up @2 and we first toured Port Moresby.  It is quite a modern city with lots of tall buildings & some construction...a long beach area that Jr said use to be quite nice...a big port area...over all it didn't take us long to see what was there.  Since my ear has been plugged since our last snorkel trip...and the prescription only med the pharmacist gave me a couple days ago hasn't helped...we headed for a clinic.  For $18 a young Filipino Doctor quickly diagnosed my problem:  wax exposed to so much water had swollen & closed up my ear (sound familiar Bob??).  He had the Rx give me some pure baby oil & said come back in a week to flush it out.  Earlier this week I was telling our neighbor, Ruby how sad I was that Tembari students didn't have any books...we'd shopped for them at the mall but they were over $10 each.  She suggested going to a 2nd hand store...so that is where we headed right from the clinic.  JACKPOT!  For $50 we got over 60 books!  I was like a kid in a candy store!  Most the books appeared to have come from Australia.  Many were familiar titles/authors.  Can't wait to use them!!

46:

Subject: Update #46 Evening Visit with Ruby-Grace-Workers

Late last night, Ruby brought us some rice, cooked cabbage & chicken.  Such a gift!  We'd already eaten so we put it in Grace's (our landlady) refrigerator.  While there we sat and visited with the workers who were awaiting the supper that Grace was fixing them.  They were excited to talk about USA.  So tonight...with the help of Grace...I heated up Ruby's gift to us...talking to Grace as it heated. She never went to school but could speak a bit of English and definitely knew how to laugh heartily.  We watch the sunset from her kitchen table.  Taking the food down to the common area at the end of our hall, we started eating.  Soon Ruby asked to join us.  We easily chatted with her for the next hour or so.  She told us about her village...seems everyone always identifies their village with pride.  She has 4 kids who live with her Mom in her village about an hour away.  Most jobs besides small stands are in PM so here she stays.  She works for Australian Aid--PNG is part of the Commonwealth & call Australia their Mother Country.  She use to work for the airlines and was sad that most foreigners had such a bad image of PNG.  Lack of jobs...2/3 are unemployed...corrupt Gov't that is selling off their land and resources to foreigners and general poverty...especially the fact that they were exporting their gas & it was refined in other countries & then sold back to them at a high $$...all upset her and rightly so.  Ruby asked us lots about USA and we tried to be honest and point out the good and bads...yet without a doubt, we do have it sooo much better.  We showed her the books we'd purchased and told her to pick one out for each of her children.  She was delighted.  Ruby said all the neighbors been asking why Americans would be staying here in this neighborhood.  We told her that we are here so we can visit with PNG people, like her & Grace & the workers.   If we stayed in a hotel,  our visits would be with expats, Asians, Europeans...not PNG people.  We might as well just be on a cruise ship floating by.  We relish the opportunities to talk to locals...so we don't have AC, bed with thick mattress, wifi, pool, share a bathroom & have to eat pb & j...at least we have a true PNG experience!!

47:

Subject: #47 Sunday AfternoonDrive in the Mtns

We'd thought about going to church today but the closest is behind a tall fence around it's community & it'd be a long walk to get to where the gate was.  So we didn't.  We were in the shower before 8 this morning, we learn quickly!  Kay had to take his wife to Drs. so it was around 11 when we heard his honk...Junior was out looking for another ride for us but we soon met up with him.  We headed to the mountains.  Such cool and refreshing winds up there with grand views!!  We made several stops--to see all the action on the river:  swimming, washing clothes & cars.  We saw a car that had missed a curve & landed in the river too.  We bought some roasted potatoes served on a leaf...Mmm.  We all put our heads under a pipe with cold water flowing out.  Ahhh.  People we passed smiled and waved.  People at places we stopped wanted pictures of us...and for us to take their pictures.  So many people just sitting under shade trees.  Our last stop was at a beautiful college campus run by 7th Day Adv. where we too sat under a shade tree to rest.  I had a good discussion with a young girl who will soon be a teacher.  We talked about rote learning vs. small group with individuals responding.  She said PNG kids are not use to telling you what they think but she was hoping to do the small groups...but with a new Gov't policy of no fee education..the pupil #s have sky rocketed...so chances were slim.   I told her whatever happens, teaching is truly a wonderful job and she smiled ear to ear agreeing.  Arrived back to our room around 5--took cool showers...not a problems that there is no hot water!!  Looking forward to being back at Tembari tomorrow ...with books!!

48:

Subject: Update #48 Teaching Again

I only opened a book and they came...over 100 big & little ones sat in the dirt mesmerized by the words and pictures.  I simply love reading aloud to kids--and reading aloud to kids who don't have books or anyone to read to them--it's an absolute thrill!!  This time alone makes it all worth it!!  Rog and I have been pulling small groups of kids from the lower classes.  Some are just learning to write the letter A...others trying to learn to ID letters and a few ready for letter sounds.  Today we even worked a tiny bit on blending sounds in word families.  In the afternoon, we've been working with the 4th & 5th graders.  Rog is doing math & science.  I am reading aloud a story asking comp & inference question...discussing main idea, setting, characters & trying to make personal connections...a few catch on which I know when their eyes sparkle!  Trying to get any kid..young or old...to answer individually is like pulling teeth...like so many other students we have worked with in our travels.  But we coax with a smile and slowly some begin to speak.  At recess & lunch, we play games, read aloud and sing songs.  Another countries kids have learned to play Doggie, Doggie;  Blue Bird, Blue Bird, London Bridges & Follow the Leader!  The only games we have seen them play is pick up sticks with pencils, drop kicking a ball and a jumping game called Jingle Jangle.  According to the posted schedule, the youngest kids leave at 10, next group at noonand oldest at 2...though in the week & a half we've been here...it hasn't happened yet. Kids sent home cause boss calls teacher meeting or just cancels, rain is coming so need to leave in case streams flood, no water...or it's too hot.  During times when they are in session, kids randomly get up and leave to purchase something from nearby vendor or just go for a walk.  Since there are sooooo many in a class, don't think the teachers even notice.  K class is about 60, Prep class( between K & 1) has 76 & 1st grade 88...all sitting in a hot, shipping container!!!  Between the inconsistent and the conditions, it's a wonder they learn anything!!

Update #42

My mom asked me to forward her next few updates:

#42

Kay and Junior picked us up at 8 amand soon we were surrounded by nearly 500 students and 9 teachers...do the math...that's over 50 students per teacher!  We presented them with the computer and printer...telling them it comes with love from our church and with the expectation that they will work hard in school.  After they were back in class, we visited each classroom.  K -3 was in a large shipping container with a fence covered by cardboard dividing the rooms.  Kids sat on the floor squished like sardines...most trying to hear the teacher who had only a Masonite board to teach from.  Kids copied lessons in notebooks...lots of repeat after me...which really means shout after me.  Chaotic!!  Many parents just hung about outside the classrooms.  A few sat close to the door or fence where their child sat so they could help them out.  At noon the kids just ran about or sat under have trees.  No one brought lunch.  A few kids bought some snack foods that vendors nearby were selling.  We nibbled on peanuts and the cook brought us two cold Pepsis....we slugged them down in spite of my Diet Coke preference.  After lunch, the younger kids just sat under a tree as their class was over but they were waiting for older siblings to finish.  The 3 -6 kids wee in a newer and nicer building.  One class had desk...3 kids in each.  Rog taught an English lesson to the 5 th and I taught the 6 th. After the kids left, we sat with the teachers talking teacher talk.  Earlier in the day, we'd met the husband of the founder of Tembari.  He did not know when we were to arrive and was surprised we'd purchased stuff already. He implied he should have been informed.  Teachers said he probably would not have let them get the needed supplies.  They were worried he'd return the computer & printer and get the money to use in the feeding program...which feeds many kids around 4 p.m.  So even here...teachers vs. administration problems. 

  Kay picked us up at 3:30 & dropped us at the mall for dinner before taking us to our room.  

  Some things we learned today:  

-Only 3 of the 45 kids I worked with today had books at home...one had one book and the other two had two books.

-Many students here are orphans that just wander about looking for places to sleep.

-The oldest teacher here is about 70, has taught 38 years and walks 3 hours one way to/from school.  

-Ants can get into ziplock bags.

Update #41 Arrived in Papua New Guinea

In less than a two hour flight, we are in a totally different world.  Step outside the new Papua New Guinea airport and you step off a cliff into poverty.  Streets lined with make shift tin shacks and people selling beetle nut, wood, peanuts, and gasoline in a variety of containers...and more people.  

A grinning Junior Petro Nelson was at the airport with Mindex Kay, our happy go lucky driver to greet us with warm hugs.  We drove to our room for the next three weeks...it is really Junior's but he is staying with a friend.  It is quite new with tile floor....five various patterns...window with screens and a 1 1/2 in foam pad covered with a sheet...our bed.  There is also a table and chairs and best of all...a small fan.  The bathroom with flush toilet and cold shower is just outside the door.  It'll work....and we are grateful to Junior!  After we dropped our bags we did a quick tour of the capital building...very modern with manicured grounds.  Then at Junior's request, we went to purchase a phone at a very fancy mall.  It always amazes me that malls and shacks can be side by side.  jUnior is very efficient and knowledgeable so we let him make the deal and set up the phone.  Then off to find Tembari Children Care center which was much harder! Somewhere in our communication between David (PNG lives in Detroit), Alfredo (our Tembari connection)and Junior (our local host), we failed to get a firm location and phone numbers proved wrong.  Junior was persistent and finally Kay, our driver figured it out as he knew the school but not its name.  So off we went until we got to a dirt road full of chuck holes and ruts that we were barely creeping along which gave me lots of time to absorb the scenes at the side of the road.  Thick dust covered everything.  People seemed to be in still motion.  Moms with babies sitting by market stalls. Kids sitting on tires.  Piles of smoldering trash. Junk skeletons of vehicles.  How do people manage to live...and smile...this way???  Kay was right.  We found Tembari.  The teachers were in a meeting when we arrived.  They greeted us warmly but no one knew we were coming.  We briefly explained who we were and that we had come to help in anyway we could.  Their response, "It is amazing you just arrived cause we had called this meeting to discuss how we were able to continue teaching without some urgently needed materials!  God is good!"  We told them our church sent money with us so in ten minutes we had a list and two teachers were going to meet us at a computer store as that was their first need...they had none.  In true fashion, Junior help select a computer and printer and negotiated a discount price.  Then we went to a school supply store and loaded up on paper, pencils, pens, glue, crayons, teacher manuals, etc...we used every last cent and some out of our pocket.  The teachers were elated.  Finally, we want to find some supper.  PNG usually eat one meal and it is in the evening...starting my mission diet!!!   By the time we laid down on our mat, we were wiped out!!!  We could have slept on anything!

Update #37 Great Barrier Reef

> Yippeeee!! Got on the Reef Experience boat...our 1st choice & also Trip Advisor's 1st choice. They served us a good breakfast & then of to the Great Barrier Reef; Hasting Reef to be exact. Took us a bit over an hour full throttle on a huge catamaran. Spectacular, gigantic, glowing, gorgeous!! Wish they made a box of crayons that could capture the vibrant & varied colors of the coral. And the variety of fish--amazing. Even the black ones looked fantastic with such a beautiful background. I loved watching the tiny fish weave in and out of the waving coral. I could almost touch the huge fish gliding by. Couldn't get enough of seeing the various shapes of coral. So thrilled to see it looking so healthy! The Australian Gov't is trying hard to protect reef by not allowing any boats in most of the GBR. The reef is as long as Calif! I had high expectations...and the GBR surpass them!!!
>
> Here's Rog's take on the GBR:
> Spent the day on the reef. The boat was a big catamaran
> that rode very nicely (no one got seasick!). We go to to go out snorkeling on the reef for as long as we could last. That was over an hour each time. We saw beautiful colors of coral in all shades of pink, violet, blue, green, gold and more. The fish were very plentiful-Jane even spotted Nemo! All kinds of clown fish, angelfish, parrotfish (yes,they have a beak mouth). Just one shark and he was not interested in us...he quickly swam away. The crew reassured us that the on the reef are not considered to be a danger to us! So, why did they all stay on the boat?
>
> Four hours of snorkeling wiped us out...we'll sleep well tonight while visions of coral & fish dance in our heads...

Update #36. Cairns: Green Island

Back on a boat...headed to Green Island which is about a 45 min ride from the mainland. It's a tiny island covered with trees...and tourist. Found a quiet beach area and but on our snorkel gear and a stinger suit to protect us from jellyfish...& sunburn. First site was choppy and we had to swim way out to see anything. Rog made it lots farther so saw some coral & fish. We moved to the other side of the island. Ahh, much better. Besides colorful coral, we spotted a large octopus moving slowly over the coral and two sea turtles as big as a wheel barrow. Took a nap on the beach between snorkel trips. Nice! Loaded up on groceries when we got back to Cairns...since we decided just to stay at Joe's till we leave for PNG. Got new roomies from Taiwan...so learned a bit about Taiwan. Weather looked good for snorkeling trip to the outer reefs tomorrow so we tried to book one...too late...all booking sites were closed for the day. I was really frustrated...we'd been waiting for the best day and maybe waited too long!! Decided we'd wake up early and try our luck in the A.M..

Update #35 Cairns: Tjapukai Center

Addition to Update #34:  According to our roomies from India:  New Delhi population is about the same as the whole of Australia and India's population is growing at a rate of adding the whole of Australia each year!!

Update 35

We're waiting out the cloudy weather...so today we bused to Tjapukai Center.  We find learning about the Aborigines fascinating! The Djabugay was the local tribe near Cairns.  Members of their tribe proudly put on several interesting demonstrations about their food, medicine, weapons, making & playing the  didgeridoo.  Also they performed several dances including the creation story...which included a man killing his brother...sound familiar?  The beat and rhythm of the music was powerful.  Since there was a small crowd, we were able to spend time talking to many of the Djabugay performers.  Some of them just seemed to accept the changes the Westerners caused.  Others were angry.  But one's words will stay with me:  "There isn't a day that goes by that I don't wish to be there...back in the bush."

Here's some of what we learned today about the Djabugay: 

-Today there life expectancy is about 20 yrs less than the rest of the Australians.  200 hundred years ago the average Djabugay lived to be about 100. 

-500 tribes lived mostly peacefully in Australia 

-2000 languages were used...only 275 left.

-There was no word for thank you as sharing was the expected behavior within family and trading happened between groups.

-A man was allowed 10 wives which kept the population up.

-Today Djabugay men prefer to marry white women so they no longer will be expected to share all they have.

Here's what I found on Wiki:

At the time of first European contact, it is estimated that between 315,000 and 750,000 people lived in Australia, with upper estimates being as high as 1.25 million.  A cumulative population of 1.6 billion people has been estimated to have lived in Australia over 70,000 years prior to British colonisation.
The combination of disease, loss of land and direct violence reduced the Aboriginal population by an estimated 90% between 1788 and 1900.

Update #34. Tidbits About Australia

Here's a few of the little things I've noted along the way and just don't want to forget!

-Cranes are everywhere!  Could see 12 outside our window in Sydney.

-Read an article in local news saying that they were passing a law requiring kids to be immunized...or lose their health benefits.

-Most school students wear uniforms that include hats with big brims

-Speed limit on most roads is about 50 mph...on major highway 60 mph and nobody was speeding

-Gas prices about $1 per liter

-Easter lilies grow wild here

-Lots of Chinese tourist who tend to travel with large groups and couldn't help but notice that most families consisted of parents with one son.  Actually did a count while we waited in line once:  14 boys to 4 girls...and all the girls had a brother.

-Stores that are Down Under & USA:

McD, 7/11, Target, KFC, Krisby Kreme, IGA, Aldi, Woolworths, Babies R Us, Toys R Us, Little Caesars, Starbucks, Ben & Jerry, KMart and Dominoes

And loving their accents & sayings like:

G'Day and How ya going?

No Worries

Carry On

Update #33 Kuranda

> Weather was iffy today so took a bus to Kuranda--the traditional home of the Djabugay for 20 or 30,0000 years. Now crowded with souvenir shops loaded with stuff from China & India...and a few items made by the local Djabugays. We'd hoped to take in a Djabugay tour...but it closed down recently. Kinda tells the story of what happens once the Europeans "discover" a country. Saw a few Djabugays hanging around the public restroom...all drinking. Sad. Took the rainforest trail to work up our appetite for lunch: kangaroo steak sandwich. Chewy beef is closest way to describe it. While Rog rested in the shade, I went into a Butterfly Sanctuary and soon was surrounded by vibrant colored butterflies & moths. I also toured the labs where hundreds of caterpillars munched on leaves, cocoons & chrysalis hung, freshly hatched babies fluttered about and plants were being farmed to feed them all. Quite a heavy rainfall started just a half hour before we boarded our bus back. We spent time catching up on emails, news, doing the wash...& writing as the rain waters all the lush vegetation around here. Later, our new neighbors showed up. They are renting the other bedroom in "our" apt. They are newlyweds from India. We had a wonderful time talking to them about their wedding & honeymoon ...2 months long. We showed them some of our favorite pictures of India & which we both enjoyed. Then we got talking about the India & the world's problems. It is always interesting to get other nationalities' take on things. Mostly he (name??) was worried about the future...ISIS & environmental issues. Finally he smiled and said, "Holiday!" In other words...no more talk about problems....We remember so well that same smile & mindset we'd seen so often in India...as their saying goes: "In India, the only problem is...there are no problems!"
>

Update #32 Cairns

>
> Feeling a bit like a kangaroo me self...hopping about Australia. Packed up our trolley at 4 a.m. And the on to a plane headed to Cairns...pronounced "Cans." We located our Airbnb...nice! Full apt with balcony overlooking a pool & full kitchen. Owner, Joe, is in Japan skiing & his mom was here cleaning up after the last visitors...something wrong with that picture. Took off to find lunch--ate at a Dominoes in support of Ben's new job!! (Hey Ben, not only did they have great pizza but also a spot on warm volcano brownie!! Hope to find those in USA!). We picked up some groceries & then into the pool to cool off...it's about 90 degrees with major humidity. Toward evening we took a stroll on the riverside boardwalk which ended at a park with a gigantic pool...never saw so many people stationary in a pool...not one person was actually swimming...all just trying to cool off. When we got back to "our" apt, we cranked up the AC and fixed chicken salad sandwiches.

Update #32 Cairns

>
> Feeling a bit like a kangaroo me self...hopping about Australia. Packed up our trolley at 4 a.m. And the on to a plane headed to Cairns...pronounced "Cans." We located our Airbnb...nice! Full apt with balcony overlooking a pool & full kitchen. Owner, Joe, is in Japan skiing & his mom was here cleaning up after the last visitors...something wrong with that picture. Took off to find lunch--ate at a Dominoes in support of Ben's new job!! (Hey Ben, not only did they have great pizza but also a spot on warm volcano brownie!! Hope to find those in USA!). We picked up some groceries & then into the pool to cool off...it's about 90 degrees with major humidity. Toward evening we took a stroll on the riverside boardwalk which ended at a park with a gigantic pool...never saw so many people stationary in a pool...not one person was actually swimming...all just trying to cool off. When we got back to "our" apt, we cranked up the AC and fixed chicken salad sandwiches.

Update #31 Heading back to Brisbane

Time to head back to Brisbane...slowly with lots of stops.  First one was a short hike to a waterfall where 3 young mates were abseiling.  The word "falls" could have been used two ways...luckily they made it safely.  Driving a bit farther, we stopped where a pile of cars were stopped...what's up?  Parasailing!  Saw at least 20 brave souls run and jump off a high ridge and sail they did.  We noticed that risky, adventurous spirit is common both here and in NZ.  We have enjoyed driving about the hinterlands.  Here's Rog's take on it:

In America we have many place that we named by or in honor of Native Americans.  A few examples are:  Pottowatmie Trail, Hiawatha Nat'l Forest, Tecumseh, Titieawasee River, Lake Huron, Mackinaw Island...and there are many, many more.  Many places in Australia were named by the Aboriginal people who were here for 30,000+ years before the Europeans came just 200 years ago.  Try to read the names of the places we drove to over the last couple days.  We went past Jimboomba on our way to Canungra by way of the Mundoolun Scenic Way.  Then we drove to Binna Berra to do some hiking.  Binna Berra means "where the Antarctic Beech tree grows".  Then on to Burringbar, Murwillumbah, Mooball and finally to Mulumbimby where we are staying tonight with Seeta.   Tomorrow we will pass through Mudgeeraba, Nerang and cross the Tallburdgera River.  If we had more time here, we should go to Baddaddaba and Benobble just because they should neat.  Could you say all those words?  We sure had trouble with many of them.

In Mulumbimby, we took a walk to where the river meets the sea.  Spotted dolphins, turtles & lots of fish and people enjoyed the crystal clear water.  Got a message that we'd left our charger at Jan & Terry's so made a plan to meet up with them on our way back to Brisbane...note to self:  got lucky, we were close by...be more careful!  Got to Brisbane in time to check out tomorrow a.m. Route to drop off our car and then to Colin & Tonya's again for a good night's rest.


Sent from my iPad

Update #30. Lamington Nat'l Park/World Heritage Site

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> We are in the most pristine rainforest in Australia....not at all the vision we had of Australia...tall trees, thick vines, moss, ferns and lots of waterfalls. We hiked about 7 miles on trails and spotted several blue tongue lizards...big, fat, black & 2-3' long...a tree frog that looked like a leaf...lots of turkey like birds that are related to dinosaurs...and a blue striped crayfish...all while being serenaded by birds. Part of the time we were engulfed in a swirling cloud. We got back to our Airbnb just before a downpour...the first real rain since we left home. We are staying on the top of a hill with a panoramic view...wallaby & hares hopping around the yard...and kookaburra laughing. Our host are Jan & Terry who also love to travel and our talkers...so now we have a few new destinations highly recommended...Bali and Istanbul.

Update #29 Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary

 

Off again!  Picked up a rental and drove around Brisbane's road maze until we found a way out and then headed to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.  It was loaded with koalas and kangaroos...just love them both!  Also got to see some platypus!!  It is such an unique mammal...it lays eggs...uses it bill to find food using lector reception...milks its young through pores...and it is cute!  We also witnessed Tasmanian Devils fighting...their ears really do turn red and two tiny horns pop up.  Their new born joeys are a size of a grain of rice.  They also had a flock of sheep and a well trained sheep dog (looked a lot like our old dog, Shep) who herded the sheep with ease.  Then we watched a sheep get sheared.  The shearer had a harness sling which made it much easier on his back.  In 1990 there were 171 million sheep in Australia...now there are only 70 million....and only 3000 shearers who get paid $2.80 per sheep.  The record is 286 sheared in 9 hrs!!  That's less than one a minute.  Though we'd seen most of the animals we saw today in Sydney ...or home...we never get tired of watching what animals do!

Update #28 Brisbane

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> Flew into Brisbane & Colin, our Airbnb host, picked us up. We visited with him & Tonya, his wife for almost an hour. They live in his family home which is an older, large historical timber & tin house built on elevated stumps for ventilation and accommodate the hilly terrain. He said he'd never could afford it himself as home prices are astronomical here. Colin advises banks on real estate decisions & says Australia is being very selective on what they will sell to Chinese. Tonya, a social worker is from Germany. They met in S. Africa while working at an orphanage. We had lots to talk about. Our room was lovely...and cheaper than last night's dive!!! Woke early--thanks to the time change--and after a nice breakfast & some hints from Tonya--got the bus to downtown Brisbane & our next spot. The housekeeper met us & gave us a key & we dropped our luggage then headed out. After several wrong turns, made it to the ferry...city hopper. Riding on the shaded top deck cooled us down and we got to see lots of Brisbane...and it was free. After lunch, we stopped in a Visitor Center. Not too helpful--no bus or train schedule & couldn't help us figure out their CityCycle program. We see the bikes everywhere but few helmets & you need a special card to unlock them...not too tourist friendly. Bummer. With no bus or train map, we pounded the hot pavement til we finally got back to our apt, threw on our suits & jumped in the gorgeous pool. Ahhhh!! This place is like a 5 star hotel...spacious rooms with full kitchen & patio. Pool with sandy beach. Hot tub. Luxury! And cheaper than that dive!!! Francesco, the owner, has sent us several emails making sure all is well. Sure is! We picked up some groceries and so we ate in & about 6, totally refreshed headed back down to the ferry getting off at the Cultural Center area. A huge pool--with a big manmade sandy beach was being enjoyed by lots....and as far as we could tell, stays open 24/7. A great water park, a huge Ferris wheel, a lovely park and a nice river walk --what a jewel in this city...which has totally revived itself in just he last 40 years according to what a guide told us. The bridges, bldgs, walkways & cliffs were all lit up on our ferry ride back. Nice!! Brisbane Day 2: we got the bus system figured out so quickly we got to the Brisbane Museum...located in the Gov't Bldg...ornate & gorgeous. Went up the 1930 elevator to the top of the clock tower, sat in the domed assembly room where the G20 convention was held, learned more about the history of Brisbane...which like several other Australian cities, was originally a penal colony. Also enjoyed an art display of camera obscura pictures & watched a film about how they are created. Very interesting. Stops on our way back home included St. John's Cathedral, Albert St. Church and the old windmill...oldest building in town. We made sandwiches when we got back, threw our sweaty clothes in the washer and then in the pool!! Heading out of town tomorrow in a rental checking out what lies west of Brisbane.

Update #27 Food

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> It's been the usual scenario when it comes to food. Rog searches the menu looking for something unusual which confidence he'll love whatever he gets. I search the menu for something familiar in the hopes I'll like it...and I often strike out...like the egg rolls & the cheese/bacon pie...no idea what was inside of either but it sure wasn't what I expected!! To make matters tricker, we often share a meal...so we just take turns ordering....works great for Rog....and I can usually pick out enough to be satisfied...and Diet Coke is everywhere so I'm happy. Food prices in both NZ & Australia is about about 50% more as USA...even in the large grocery stores which are similar to ours with lots to select from. It has been nice not to have to wonder if the food & water is safe!!!

Update #26 Last Day in Sydney: Bondi to Bronte Walk

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> We were up and out of that dive early and soon walking the Bondi to Bronte Walk...a glorious 6 km path between these two fabulous aches. Bondi beach is about 1km long & maybe 150m deep. The walk took us along the bank of carved out sandstone, sandy coves & rocky cliffs. Waves were lapping & spouting over the boulders and the water full of surfers. The cool breeze added to the pleasure. We returned the rental car...with no dents...and Rog let out a sigh of relief and decided that wherever possible...we'll use public transportation.

Update #25 Valentine's Day--the Good, the Bad & the Ugly

> Headed back to Sydney with no plan for the day. Stopped at a McD to book a room about half way back and then stopped at a visitor center near Penrith...for such a big city, they sure didn't have much that we were interested in. Since it was hot, we decided to do the river walk & we were told we might see platypus. Bad & Ugly-River was muddy & banks were littered. Met a guy fishing in the river who told us he been fishing everyday for a month...no platypus. It was hot as an oven & no breeze. We crawled back to our car & went looking for lunch...all the way to the Outback...restaurant that is. Good!! Every bite like eating at the one home. Made another stop at McD to see if there was a movie near & then off we went to search for it. Bad. Traffic was thick & we didn't have accurate directions so had to turn around lots...which is hard enough when you are driving on the "right side" but totally screwed up on the other side. Finally found the theater but the movie we wanted was sold out. Bad. But decided on The Choice...which was a Good choice. Predictable but entertaining. Popcorn was blah...no butter or salt. Bad. Finding our hotel was easier...Good...but the hotel--BAD & UGLY!!! Had it not been after 10, we'd moved on and we are not too picky so you can imagine what kind of place it was...though I shouldn't complain...we actually had our own waterfall right in our room....air conditioner had a major leak...and our bed was on great rollers so every time we touched the wall, we'd go for a ride...though not too far cause the room was tiny! And to top it off, a slight screech from the AC grew with intensity until finally around 2 am, we pulled the plug...the heat was easier to endure. Sure made us appreciate all the other great rooms we've been in!! Good! So ends my story of the Valentine's Day Good/Bad/Ugly!!

Update #24 Ukulele Festival & Everglades Estate

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> After hiking on to see just "one more waterfall"...we headed to a Ukulele Festival...and what a treat! Ukulele groups...many with other instruments as well...from all over. Each got 30 min on one of the 7 stages from 10 am to 11 pm!! There was a whole lot of lively music, toe tapping and clapping going on. All pretty awesome. The crowd loved me and they totally loved performing. Only thing better would have been if some of our music, strumming friends were with us...like Terri & Ted who probably would have been up on the stage! Around 2 pm we took a break & headed to the Everglades Estate where we meandered around their extensive gardens filled with flowering shrubs, shady trees, ponds and of course, gorgeous flowers...many we have but also many we have seen in other countries even in rainforest & tropics. There was even a man made, rock-lined, creative creek & amazing waterfall complete with a pool. Again I was jealous of not just the variety of blooms but also the length of time they bloom. Something is blooming almost all year long. I'd work harder in my garden if that were the case in Michigan. Toward evening, we headed back for another fix of music & got it. Rog's favorite group what's a 4 man group with a terrific lead singer. Mine was a huge...may 30...high energy group that was having a blast entertaining us. All in all, a great day which ended in the cabin we've been staying in. There I popped some corn and we watched Robin Hood on TV.

Update #23. Blue Mountains/Scenic World/Blackheath

We were at Scenic World when the door opened.  Scenic World features 3 different rides down & over the mountains...the quickest way to "see it all."  Our first ride was in a skyway car that glided 270m between cliff tops above the Jamison Valley.  What a view...it would have been if we weren't in a thick cloud...so glad we got there so early!  Not to be discouraged, we climbed aboard the railway which at a 52 degree incline quickly had us down to the bottom.  There we walked the boardwalks that twisted & turned through the ancient forest while signs told us what we were seeing. So many different types of trees & evidence of past natural & manmade influence on their growth.   For 15 years this area was mined for coal...which is how the whole Scenic World vision began...on the coal bin tracks.  We took a cableway up 545m back to the base for lunch.  Now with a clear sky, we got back on the skyway car and this time the valley way, way, way below was crystal clear!  Back in our car, we headed for Blackheath...still in the Blue Mountains and still loving the various hues of blue that covers this entire area.  Rog and I toured the Blue Ridge Mountains in USA on our honeymoon (spending a whole lot less) so memories are popping up.  The blue here is much more pronounced because the oil that the Eucalyptus tree gives off. We spent about 10 hours today traveling the backroads pulling off often and searching for animals & we found them:  lyre birds, 3-4' iguana like creature, cockatoo, kookaburras and lots of hopping, happy kangaroos!!  What a riot to watch them!  We drove from the top of cliffs to the valleys below where the land was pastured & only a few towns...on curvy, narrow, and steep roads...sometimes feet away from the edge of cliffs.   Rog drove slowwwwly and carefullllly....and I just got to enjoy it!!  

Update #22. Katoomba/ Blue Mountains/Aboriginal Centre

Woke up early to get take in the morning views of the vast and breathtaking Blue Mountains...the vertical sandstone cliffs reaching the sky and the endless valley crowded with vegetation, rainforest area and the largest eucalyptus tree forest in the world...so many Gum Trees (their nickname)....no wonder the koala & kookaburra...and now us...love it here!!    And truly blue!  Slowly driving the Blue Mountain Drive , we stopped at every pull over to be awed over and over.  In the heat of the day, we went to the Waradah Aboriginal Centre. Members of the Gundungarra group performed for us beginning with their smoking ceremony.  A brief history of the area, introduction of some of the many groups & their languages as well as an explanation of their body paintings gave us a good background making the skits/dances much more meaningful.  A reenactment of the story told of how the didgeridoo was found was especially interesting...the sounds he could make to imitate animals & nature were great.  History:  At one time, most of Australia was home to about 250 family clans...each with their own language & customs.  For over 20,000 years (some think 30,000) they lived peacefully together.  No you or me...only us.  No mine or yours...only ours.  And the bush was cared for and was relatively  in pristine condition.  When the Europeans arrived about 200 years ago, things changed drastically and quickly...the ways of the Aboriginals ended as their land was taken away.  Sadly the same story repeated in so much of our world.  The good news is a revival of their culture and a recognition of their rights...and the Aborigines are showcasing their culture and making $$ doing it!  We wandered around some more before ending the day watching the sun set...in the SW...over the Blue Mountains...the blues, yellows, oranges, pinks painting a masterpiece before our eyes. 

Update #21 Featherdale Wildlife Park

We left the big town of Sydney behind...and headed to the country...in a rental car...driving on the "wrong side"...and Rog with white knuckles!!  First stop was the Featherdale Wildlife Park--home to lots of Australian native animals.  The park is uniquely designed so many of the animals can roam as they please with certain areas marked Animal Refuge area.  So we got up close and personal with the koalas,  kangaroos, wallabies and lots of birds & ducks.  Other animals were caged in very natural settings:  squirrel bats, emu, echidna, blue penguins, dingo, Tasmanian Devil, wombats, lyre birds, kookaburras, many species of cockatoos & owls & parrots...and lots more.  The staff was busy feeding the animals, giving them meds, and lots of TLC.  They obviously loved their jobs!  We spent most the day being entertained by all the animals' antics.  Finally around 5, we went looking for Katoomba and our beds for the night. 

Opera House lit for Chinese NY

Koala & Jane

Kangeroo & Rog

Last AirBnB in NZ

Inside Opera House

Blue Mountains

Wish u were here!

Wish u were here!

Rog and his kangaroo buddy

Last view of NZ

Update #20 Sydney Snippets

-Woke up to the laughing sound of a kookaburra!! Gotta look for a gum tree now!!

-Spotted this poem & dedicate it to Rog's Mom:

I think that I shall never spy

A poem as lovely as a pie.

-Saw a Woolworth with a cafe so had to eat there for nostalgia sake...Rog's mom's egg run lunch stop. It was serving Chinese food and seemed to be for seniors only. We were the young ones! 

-10:30 a.m. Monday 2/8: we heard rowdy cheers & saw a huge crowd pouring out of a bar...walked in to see the Super Bowl on the big screen! A day late here but just as exciting!

Update #19 Tom & Vanessa

A traveler we met once told me never say "Goodbye" but instead "Hope to see you later!" And she was right. Here in Sydney we met up with Tom who we met in India & Vanessa in the Philippines. Tom is an Aussie & works for McD here...yup we told him we want more good stuff offered at McD in USA. Over BBQ lunch at his apt we reminisced about our time in India & caught up a bit. Later we went to the beach with him & his daughter, Charlie where they & 800 other nippers (kids) were learning to swim & be safe in the ocean. Some of Tom's friends& Charlie's mom & stepbrother joined us after class and we had a lazy couple hours relaxing & conversing about life, US & Aus politics & travels. We felt like family. Tom has a good life here. Vanessa, a Filipino, has been just 4 months and is still in culture shock. Her Aussie boyfriend encouraged her to come here to get a job. She misses home but likes her job & the $$. She was so excited to see us and filled us in on all the All Hands/Leyte news. 

> We have noticed that while traveling in NZ & Aus, we see so many tourist and you just don't make the connections like when we traveled where tourist are few and far between. And locals, though very helpful & friendly, don't end up giving us their email addresses!! Even our Airbnb hosts are great for sharing their homes & having interesting conversations...but we are one of many and we are quickly gone & replaced. On the buses, trains & planes, we often can't start up a conversation like we have done in so many of the 2nd & 3rd world countries we've traveled...because the person next to us is on his phone or has earplugs in. We miss making those connections...like Tom & Vanessa.

Update #18 Sydney Sites

So much to see and do here...and we can jump on ferries to get from site to site!! We've enjoyed Darling Wharf with its Chinese celebrations and its Month of Love events...and since both love the color red, the Opera House & the Harbor Bridge glowed red. Luna Park's carnival was a fun setting. The Botanical Gardens had thousands of flowers & trees in bloom...many of the flowers we have at home but they have many more types of trees. At Watson Bay we walked the Gap Trail which led us out to the cliffs that protect Sydney. The ferocious Tasman Sea beat against the high vertical cliffs leaving only a small gap for boats to enter the Sydney harbor. One day we hopped on the train & took it as far SW as we could. We passed miles of suburbs crowded with small homes, tall apt buildings, large factories & commercial buildings until finally, quite near the end of the line, we came to open land & a few grazing cattle. Walking the many piers was always entertaining as musicians & performers try to earn a few coins. We especially enjoyed listening to the didgeridoo, an ancient instrument. This city is alive and well

Update #17 Sydney Opera House

> I'm sitting in a small park next to the apt building where Tricia, our host (born in AnnArbor!!) and we now live. Directly in front of me is the Harbor Bridge and the iconic Opera House...sailing by is a replica of a sailboat from the past...probably similar to the sailboats that inspired Ulzon's design!! He wanted it to be one with the sea...and it is. Learned so many fascinating facts on our tour of the the Opera House: Over 200 architects submitted plans & though Ulzon's was just 38 & unknown & had not consulted an engineer, his was picked; Ulzon was asked to leave the building site (political reasons) and never saw his completed masterpiece; all the roof pieced together would form a circle; the special made tiles that cover the roof are mostly tan but turn white when kissed by the sun & the roof itself seems to be in motion as the clouds pass over it due to the angles; it is built on a raised sandstone colored foundation because Ulzon was inspired as a young child when the feeling of height he got when he climbed an ancient temple...just like the ones we climbed in Guatemala & Mexico; though it took years to build, no one was killed; the theaters are built with a medley of woods & wool to absorb all echo so true clarity is heard in every seat; no mics or amplifiers of any kind are every used; 95% of the time the venues & theaters are fully booked. I can tell you all those facts but I can't explain the miraculous sound of the music. I'm sure Annie Klark & Elsi Sly's trained ears would have been in ecstasy. Even my untrained ear smiled. My minute background in operas & foreign language did little to keep me from being totally awed. Our show featured four Australian opera singers performing Ten Great Opera Hits and accompanied by a master piano player. What a glorious way to spend a Sunday afternoon in Sydney!!!
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Update #16 Sydney Day 1 & 2

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> We made it to Sydney...a sprawling, upbeat port city filled with almost 5 million Aussies...plus what seems like thousands of Chinese tourist. Our Airbnb is near Chinatown and Sydney is gearing up to celebrate the Chinese New Year. Our flight got us in around 5:30 pm and by 7:30 we were getting acquainted with Ethan, our host. He's Taiwanese and here studying. We settled in and spent time planning our next couple days. Got an early start the next am.m and since it was misting, we headed to the Australian Museum. I loved the room filled with ornate, whimsical, colorful, unique and fascinating face mask...most from Papua New Guinea...which increased our excitement for our visit to PNG coming up! Other amazing exhibits: extinct section with the Demon Duck of Doom...the size of a camel--a 600 lb giant kangaroo--the Hobbit...nickname of short human like mammal recently found. St Mary's Cathedral was our next stop. Gigantic arched pillars showcasing glorious stain glass windows and intricately carved main altar. Massive. We walked to the Circular Quay harbor to get a good view of the Opera House...Ahhh! Then off to the Rock Museum where we learned the history of Sydney which was built on the rugged rocky coast. The. Aborigines lived here about 30,000 years before the British landed. Next boat loads of convicts were dumped here by the British. Soon Sydney became quite an important trading port. Australia has made a concerted effort to assimilate the Aborigines into the mainstream without squelching their culture. Another neat exhibit showed the rise and fall of sea levels over the last 60,000 years and its effect on this area's landscape. Many of the early stately buildings are still here so we spent the next while looking for them. Saw many after climbing to the top of the Sydney bridge. Had a fish & chip dinner overlooking the bay before heading "home." After a break & enjoying some of the stir fry Ethan fixed, we went for a walk to Darling Bay...a hot spot for food, bars and evening entertainment. Liking Sydney!!
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Update #15 Good to Know About NZ

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> Here's a few last Good to Knows About NZ
> 1. Don't compare a North NZer to a South NZer...it's like calling a New Yorker a Californian!
> 2. Avoid NZ around Chinese New Year. In that 10 day period about 60,000 Chinese descend on NZ.
> 3. Use Connectabus--great and efficient way to get around and most of the drivers are a wealth of info and love talking to you.
> 4. Big plus for NZ: no snakes!
> 5. Most electricity for NZ is generated using hydropower in SNZ.
> 6. 65% of NZers live north of Hamilton.
> 7. Lots of cheese and lamb selections on menus.
> 8. Need lots of $$$ for a trip to NZ!

Update #14 Back to Queenstown to Relax

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> After a host bike ride along the lake, we were headed back to Queenstown where we'd booked an Airbnb with Megan and Richard. Their condo overlooks Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables (name of the twin peaks). They've traveled lots using Airbnb so said--why not offer our extra bedroom?? We went to town for dinner and got some groceries for next day. We visited with Megan & Richard talking about our upcoming US elections and the Flint water mess. It always amazes me how much people halfway around the world know and care about US news! Megan set out a nice selection of breakfast food for us before she left for work which we ate leisurely enjoying the view. I put a load of wash in and did more later so we'd have clean clothes again. Then I caught up on emails & updates while Rog caught up on the world news. We'd bought salad stuff & a broasted chicken so made a big salad...ate half saving the rest for supper. Rog went to town for a bike ride while I finished up my writing sitting on the balcony. Late in the afternoon I felt caught up so I finally started reading the book I'd brought. We needed this relaxing, catch up day. Tomorrow we fly to Sydney!

Update #13 Off to Noy Zylan by Rog

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> 'Allo all U.S.ers,
> Off to Noy Zylan wi' me gal....jus' a trampin' 'roun the trees and bushes like scorched rabbits we are! Seein' some great sights! Enjoyin' how they pronounce me name-Ro' jur. Almost as good as India where they called me Rah' jah and treated me like a king!
> We have come across a few idioms that reveal a bit of the humor and joy of life that we have experienced here.
> Describing a notable rugby player..."he walks like a washing machine".
> Talking about some who had passed away..." 'e got on the big ship!"
>
> Many older people seem to be driving bus or taxi...it seems that they are finding it difficult to replace drivers with younger people because the job requires a life style that most young people do not want. Long hours, poor or unhealthy food choices,little opportunity to pursue activities like hiking, tramping, hunting, fishing,biking,etc.
> Ahh! The South Island, or Mainland as those that live here like to say, is a bit cooler and much lower in population so those that live here feel somewhat superior to their countrymen to the North (even though they are inferior on the globe). Hunting and fishing is pretty big here along with lots of extreme sports. Oh, and the speech here is easier for us to understand.
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Update #12 Locked Out

> We decided to eat in tonight so we picked up some sandwiches, chips, apples, a Diet Coke and a rather large highly rated beer. You can guess who drank what. We ate in the living room of our suite which had 3 private bedrooms surrounding it. After a bit, Rog went into our bedroom to read & I stayed in the living room to write. Two girls from Jerusalem and a boy from Chile & an Australian girl who I assume was his girlfriend, soon joined me as they were in the other 2 bedrooms. The Ausie went to bed early. The rest of us sat around swapping stories and learning a bit about each other. The girls told me how they loved Israel and felt very safe there & had a deep feeling of connection with all their countrymen. The Chile guy was studying English here. Quite a bit later, we said good night. Our bedroom door was locked so I knocked...no answer...only loud snores...I knocked harder...no answer...I called "ROGER"...no answer. The Ausie came out of her room wearing not much and saying she could hear loud snoring...I said I'd offer her earplugs but they were locked in the room. I went out on our balcony and tapped on the window...then pounded....harder. No answer. I walked to the check-in desk. Closed for the night. I came back and one of the girls beat on the door while I pounded on the window...until a guest down stairs shouted, "Hey Matey, keep the noise down!" We tried all the others' keys. No luck. It was late so the girls gave me their extra blanket and I tried to make myself comfortable on the small couch in the living room where I could hear Roger snoring through the wall between us. A few hours later, a confused Roger opened the door. He owes me.

Update #11 TeAnau Glowworm Cave

Why TeAnau...Glowworm cave. The word TeAnau in Maori means cave with rushing waters. Though kept secret for many years as it the Maori believed the cave held the eyes of their deceased, the name encouraged a British explorer to search until he found it...and of course it soon turned into a tourist attraction. We don't usually gravitate toward tourist attractions unless they involve nature. And this one was cool. A catamaran took us across the gigantic Lake TeAnau to the cave opening. Ducking low, we entered...more dark and damp with each step...and surprisingly noisier as water rushed by us. We climbed metal stairs lit up by tiny lamps passing waterfalls that were carving unique sculptured rock formations and whirlpools. On the top of one of the falls, we climbed into a small boat. No more lights. Just pitch black. We glided into a silent grotto and barely above us were the glowworms. Picture thousands of fire flies constantly lit up. Like a clear night sky with bright iridescent green stars. Extraordinary! Back at the info center, we learned what we were really seeing was glow larvae begging for food and under each were dozens of long sticky strings just waiting to catch an insect. Isn't nature amazingly cunning!!!
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Update #10. Fjord National Park/Milford Sound

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> Our guide for the day, Nijal in his BBQ bus picked us up at 7:30 a.m. Along with 7 others, we headed for Fjord Nat'l Park. It took us 7 hours since Nijal stopped often along the way so we wouldn't miss some fantastic views, waterfalls, Mirror Lake, and other short hikes where we spotted foxgloves, lupines and Mt Cook lilies--which are actually the largest buttercups in the world. While we were hiking a trail through a eire, deep & dark, moss covered woods, Nijal was cooking up a scrumptious lunch on his BBQ. We set out folding chairs next to a babbling, crystal turquoise blue stream..really never seen a stream this color...and devoured our lunch and the view. At Nijal's encouragement, we drank the icy cold water right from the stream. Back on bus, Nijal continued filling us in on info which made everything so much more interesting. Abundant rain is why the beech, lancewood & loblolly pine trees, ferns and shrubs (all native) are so thick and lush. Rog, of course, loved seeing the many geological features: sedimentary rock at 90degree, glacier till, moraines, glacial striation and massive rock slides. We were so awed by so many gorgeous views on the way...and then we loaded a boat and headed into the Milford Sound. You know the saying--you won't believe it until you see it! But it was more than seeing it. It was being in the middle. The 360 degree panoramic effect. The wind. The immenseness of the shear cliffs. The clarity of the deepest blue water. The fuzzy brown fur seals sprawled out on the boulders. The waterfalls making rainbows with their spray. When we reached the Tasmanian Sea, we turned around. The wind stopped and stillness took over. Incredible. Unforgettable.
> Back on the bus Nijal chatted on about all we asked about: Schools- 6-16 compulsory/ University costly, difficult to get into & through. Prime Minister Key-self made millionaire/donates salary to charity/NZers think he's selling off too much of NZ to foreigners. Tourism-growing leaps and bounds. Farms-mostly privately owned though many corporate owned/ dairy farmers hurting right now due to low prices/not enough sheep shearers & few young ones. Soon enough it was time to get dropped of in TeAnau right in front of The Lakeside Backpackers Hostel...home for the night.
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Milford Sound

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Fiord Nat'l Park

Begin forwarded message:

From: Jane <janeboyce@live.com>
Date: January 31, 2016 at 3:35:59 AM EST
To: Bekah Boyce <bekah_boyce@hotmail.com>
Subject: Fiord Nat'l Park

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Queenstown

Update #9. McDonalds

> I'll admit it...we've been to McD quite a few time cause NZ have the best we've ever seen! Not only are many huge & glamorous ...some with kiosks where you place your order...the menu is amazing & abundant: hamburgers with guacamole, salsa, BBQ, bacon, beans & cheese choices; fries with guacamole & salsa; Georgie pies of meats, veg and/or eggs (like pot pie), deli sandwiches, tarts, cakes, cheesecakes, huge selection of muffins; specialty coffees & teas; slushy floats and my personal favorite: chocolate waffle cone filled with hot fudge sundae!! Really--I demand equality!!!

Update #8 Queenstown SNZ

> Guess I'll carry on...left Seb's after fixing our breakfast using eggs he'd just collected from his hens. Headed back to Queenstown using a day bus pass so after dropping our bags at Southern Laughter hostel...we bussed all around the area which couldn't be more spectacular! It's like a 4D effect with the dark, ragged peaks of The Remarkables in the background, the golden rounded mounds with lush pines creeping up them all surrounding the most crystal turquoise lake! (Imagine an immense Torch Lake cradled in this setting.). Crazy that just 150 years ago only a few Maori lived here...today almost 30,000 residence host an average of 5000 visitors a day!! 60% coming from China. This place is crawling with young kids 'cause it's also know as the center for dozens of ways to scare the crap out of ya! From the top of the huge mountains you can skydive, paraglide, zip line, canyon swing, ride a luge or gondola and of course, bungy jump. Then there's the lake where you can speed through the canyons, ride in a skidoo like machine that dives under water & then flies in the air, white water raft, and parasailing. Bike trails have jumps so you can fly there too! Or our choices: a relaxing, calm boat ride and a tour of Kiwi Birdlife Park (thanks Karen for a heads up on that one). Both informative and exciting to hear about the progress NZ is making to revive their native plants and animals. 40% of their animals are on the extinction list another 40% close to it. When the Maori came only 2 types of mammals lived here...both bats and a huge number of birds. Quickly the largest bird, the Moa was hunted to extinction as it had no fear of humans. When other mammals & plants were introduced, it wrecked havoc. Today NZ is spraying pine trees with canola oil to stop the spread and replanting native fauna so many birds have returned. Deer which quickly became overpopulated are actually being plucked up by helicopters & raised. Meat is sold to Germany and the velvet horns to China & used for medicinal purposes. (USA take note--it's big $$ here). Another problem solved: the opossum's fur is being made into hats, gloves & shoe liners. Many large areas are being eradicated of non-native mammals (rats, rabbits, stoats, etc). Most programs have been very successful...especially for the kiwi! The water quality of Lake Wakatipu is 99.9% pure...better than any bottled water...and 2nd only to a lake in Antartica. (Fact checking is encouraged as most of what we hear is from the tour guides, boat captains, bus drivers or locals!)
> Last night we went for a stroll in Queenstown's botanical park which was quite lovely...and we were treated to a medley of Shakespearian plays with snippets being performed throughout the park. Us lucky blokes!! Tonight we're catching up on writing...obviously...trying to plan a bit ahead...and gazing at the views & soon the night skies at 45 degrees S latitude...half way between the equator and the S pole!
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Tuatara!

We saw some tuatara at the bird life park today.  They were living at the time of the dinosaurs...and they are still here in NZ today (well, their descendants are still here).  
Love to all,
Gpa and Gma

Can you find Milford Sound on a map?  We will be there tomorrow.

Update #7 Arrowtown, SNZ

Time to move on so said goodbye to Beryl...who told us of all her guest, only one other couple seemed so calm & relaxed & it bit her abit at ease. We headed back to Auckland for a quick night stay near the airport, jumped on an early flight to Queenstown, SNZ then bussed to Arrowtown.  We spent the afternoon exploring this old gold rush town where they'd preserved most of the original buildings and today they are filled with places to eat or fancy clothing, art & jewelry stores.  Their museum was amazingly authentic ...right down to an outhouse with a guy sitting inside and flies buzzing all around.  When you opened the door, he shouted "Hey Matey...can't ya give a guys some privacy??"  We also walked through the remains of the Chinese settlement where hundreds of these hard working Chinese came hoping to get rich.  Most died poor.  The gold rush only lasted a few years but fortunately, the town figured out how to find "gold" other ways...tourist!  Reminded me of Traverse City in the summer.  Star Wars was showing at the tiny cinema where you could bring your own wine & order a cheese platter.  Since we'd hope to see it, we went.  Movie was great...popcorn not.  Next morning, we were off biking a trail along the Arrow river.   Up, down, over long suspension bridges, past spectacular scenery, gigantic cliffs & gorges, waterfalls, deer & Swiss goat farms, grapes vineyards and the famous Kawarau Bridge where we only watched crazy people buggy jump the 120 feet bouncing just barely above the river.  We were both glad neither of us were THAT crazy!  After 12 or so km, we plopped down at a creamery and ate our fill of fresh made cheese and bread & fruit...and Diet Coke and a flat white coffee (Rog's favorite drink here).  Then we headed back...now with the sun brightly lighting up the countless hues of greens.  Tired?  Yup!  Ready to hit the sack--we're staying with Seb who after work biked 28 km with 500m grade.  Show off!!  

Update #6 History Lesson

 A short history lesson: NZ is a baby as it has only been inhabited by people for 1000 years! Maori came first...from Polynesian area & 400 years later Captain Hook & the Dutch arrived. Here North points to the equator and south winds bring cold weather. Gardens are gorgeous on the North island as it doesn't freeze...so a little effort last all year!! South Island is much colder & they get snow. Homes are very modest with huge windows and extremely expensive...$550,000 is considered "affordable" but few are available. Lots of foreigners are buying homes for investment which is driving the market up. Many homes are sold at auctions which also drives prices up. Price of dining out is at least 2x as much as USA. Luckily, Rog & I often share a meal and it's plenty and also the US dollar is strong here....$1 NZ = $1.40 US. NZ are friendly and proud of their beautiful country...and rightly so!

PS I stand to be corrected on a previous update: Jurassic Park was filmed in Hawaii.

Update #5 Farming...by Rog

This place is a beautiful spot with friendly people that all seem to enjoy telling us about their country.  

As one said, "We are a bit removed from many of the troubles of the world!" 

The grassy fields bordered by neat fences or hedgerows seem to go on and on. Cows and sheep appear to all be healthy and clean as they are rotated to fresh pastures often.  We see very little farm equipment and even the milking sheds are hard to find.  No big red barns.  Our bus driver told us average number of dairy cows per farmer is around 250 but he knew one who milked 2200!!  With all of the animals it seems that there might be many flies or other bugs, but the pests are few. 

Doors and windows are left wide open to allow the breeze through-with no worries that flies or mosquitoes might invade the house.  Even with lights on at night the screenless windows can be open...amazing.  Beryl, our Bnb hostess in Rotorua, was shocked to hear that we sometimes get many mosquito bites in a day.  She got one once and didn't like it at all. 

Penguins

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Hobbiton

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Hobbit hole

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Middle earth

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Sulphur flat and pool

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Geyser

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Geothermal area

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Maori warrior

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