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Wednesday, February 13, 2019

Felucca & Sunset








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Update 39

Since we were planning to be at a school in Menof on Valentine's Day, we decided to take a day off & celebrate it early. Unfortunately, the night before, Microsoft decided to shut down our email...really, hadn't they figured out we were in Egypt??? So instead of heading out for an adventure, we headed to an Apple Store that luckily we'd spotted earlier. It wasn't an easy fix so we were told to come back later...when the tech was in. So we stopped in to visit with Jo's relatives which delighted them...especially Granny.
Back at the Apple store, more bad news. The tech had to delete my account & wait for 24 hours. (Meanwhile back home, Bekah logged into our account & reported that all the activities were ours. Fast forward: it worked!!)
Finally, about 3 pm, we climbed aboard a felucca...just the two of us & the captain. As a gentle breeze caught the sail, we glided away from the chaos & noice of Cairo. So peaceful and relaxing!
The sun slowly slipped toward the horizon and a glorious sunset painted the sky and the Nile River. How's that for a romantic scene??
Back on land, we went to a lovely Lebanese restaurant and each ordered a meal (we usually share) and then to top off the evening, we stopped for dessert in the oldest bakery in town. My pie was like eating pure fudge & Roger's like caramel walnuts.
I hadn't eaten that much in a long time...and my stomach was overwhelmed! Thank good this glutton had some Pepto Bismol!
Rog, of course, had no problem & slept like a well fed baby!

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Tuesday, February 12, 2019

Update 37

Mainer Anis is the Bishop of the Diocese of Egypt with North Africa & the Horn of Africa. Bishop Mainer honored us with a private visit. He spoke to us about his hope that all denominations of Christians (10%) & Muslim (90%) would work together to improve Egypt. Perhaps someday all religions, atheist, races & tribes in this world would accept each other and see that we are all the same. Couldn't agree more.
When he heard that we were Methodist, he told us that John Wesley was part of the Anglican Church. (Same as his.). He was proud of that.
The Bishop gave us a brief history of the Coptic Christian church (called Coptic Orthodox) in Egypt. It was founded by St. Mark, the writer of one of the books of the Bible who had come to Egypt as a refugee from Libya by walking along the Mediterranean Sea. He started the church in Alexandria in about 60 AD.
Maybe that's why this church, All Saints Church embraces the refugees today!!

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Update 36

Probably the spark that lit our fire to come to Egypt was a chance conversation with a most caring lady, Jo Penzien McDonald who attends our church. I think of these random coincidences as nudges from God.
Jo had had a terrible fall & we were there to take her a meal when in spite of her pain, she asked us about our winter plans. Having not really made any, we rattled of several possibilities. When we said Egypt, she excitedly told us that her late husband's cousin & family lived in Cairo. Jo looked up his contact info for us right then and there. So I did contact him. He replied, "Come...there's lots of volunteer work here!" So after quite a bit more internet search & prayers, I hit the jackpot...Refuge Egypt. Working with refugees just seemed to be the right thing to do this year.
So tonight we got to meet Jo's Egyptian family...who turned out to live just 2 minutes from where we are. Jo's cousin in law-they called Granny, her son Cherif & wife, Sharine and their two darling daughters who put on their fancy red dresses just for us.
We sat in their lovely living room nibbling on decadent desserts and had a lively conversation ranging from the old family homestead in Michigan to the current political scene in Egypt & USA.
Though I'm sure we could have talked for hours, we knew Cherif had to be at the hospital early (he's a pediatrician) so we said our good byes. Cherif insisted on walking us home & genuinely invited us to come back again soon!

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Sunday, February 10, 2019

Food distribution day









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Cairo and King Farouk home






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Aquarium






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St Raphael school






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Coptic Museum






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Our class






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Update 34

Another food distribution day...
Sometimes someone speaks broken English to us, telling us a little bit about them.  
Jakob is from Ethiopia.  He says he is not safe at home because there is so much violence.  He says he is also not safe in Egypt because Egyptians hate Ethiopians because of Ethiopia is building a dam on the Nile.  He is proud to wear a cross and prayer before each meal even though he's been told not to.  He recited Matthew 10:39 to me: 
 He who finds his life will lose it, and he who loses his life for My sake will find it.  
A young Mom holding a child about 18 months old told me so is struggling .  Her husband was killed in Sudan.  
A lady with tears running down her cheeks looked so tired.  She let me hug her for a long time but said nothing.
I did some research on their home countries and the current political state:
Eritrea: dictator/no media allowed/all must join & remain in the army...forced labor/imprisonments for any whim of disagreement/no religious freedom.
Sudan & Syria:  still war zone with many random killings
Ethiopia:  violence especially against certain ethnic groups
These are the refugees we meet.
That is what they are running from.  Who leaves their home & all they've known?  People who are desperate to find safety...a better life.  Wouldn't you??

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Update 35

We visited a school, St. Raphael
Center about an hour drive from here that is for Sudan refugee students. We drove through the recently developed and rather nice area called New Cairo....wider roads, cleaner but still tall & close together housing & many nice shops...it's where the government buildings have relocated...therefore no need to fix up the old Cairo. And then we turned off that new road and onto a muddy alley crowded with people, small stands, and a variety of trash. Two 6-8 story buildings with laundry hanging out every window meant we had dot squeeze through. I felt sorrow for our driver...he drives the bishop around & has a nice car...one of the very few without scrapes, dings & smashed corners. It was hard to locate & our driver had to ask many times to find it.
Finally, found the principal waiting for us at the bottom of a stairway only partially broken. We climbed up a few flights to his neat office. He was so delighted to have us there & explained that all 210 students (1st-8th) were from Sudan and had very little education due to the war. They could not attend Egyptian schools. UN and some donors were funding the school. He asked us to please observe and make suggestions.
How do you make suggestions to a teacher whose classroom is crammed with rowdy displaced kids & only a white board? We observed two English classes—2nd & 6th grade. You could immediately tell both teachers loved their students & were passionate about teaching. They used the repeat method where teacher says it, kids repeat it. Over & over. The 6th graders were learning about treasures...seemed appropriate here in Egypt. He had examples of aluminum & steel. He was trying to explain gold & diamonds so I handed him my wedding ring. His eyes popped out & he held it up like it was the Hope Diamond. He asked if the students could hold it as they'd never seen real gold or a diamond. It was a dazzling time! In the 2nd grade, I read aloud, Leo, the Late Bloomer to attentive, wide-eyed students. We played Doggie Doggie Where's your Bone & 7 Up.
After class we met with the teachers and made a few suggestions which they were excited to get. It felt wrong but we did try to suggest only things we thought feasible in their situation. Example: pointer, don't talk until students quiet, have students come up to whiteboard & point out words/answers to comprehensive questions, reward good behavior by leaving a few minutes to play one of the game we taught at the end of the day. The teachers were overwhelmingly thankful and excited to use our suggestions.
We will go back to this school next week & see other classrooms. Sure wish we could take them loads of teaching materials that were so readily available to us when we were teaching!!!
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Update 33

We've been jam packing our days with so much that I've not taken time to write...so I'll try to catch up.
Our English class is going well and since we pass out candy to students that get there on time, we have been able to cover more material. Today we gave our first quiz—haven't checked it yet—but most students were working hard on it.
We bagged up almost 300 bags of rice & beans for another distribution day...and again it felt so rewarding to hand out the food bags...only wish there was more in it! A grain bag of beans & rice is about $18...it fills 25 family size bags...so they get 70 cents worth of each.
I went to the prison again this time with the agenda of writing a first person story. I accomplished that and will post it later...but it was a bit scary as there was a fracas about my coat with a zipper. The wardens there are toughened, hard women. What if I'd left a candy in my pocket?? They might think it's drugs. So I'm not going back. The thought of getting put in there is too scary...even though I've heard the US ambassador would get me right out.
Fridays (Muslim's holy day) & Sunday are our days off so off we go. We went to Aisha Fahmy Museum which was the former home of King Farouk, the last king of Egypt who went to exile on his yacht. When Nasser took over, most previous statues, bust, paintings & belongings of the previous Kings were destroyed...but a few were saved & now are prominently displayed in this lavish home.
We visited the Hanging Church...called that as it is built above the gatehouse of the Babylon fortress...3rd century. Next to it is the Coptic Museum that is filled with the remains of many of the Cairo churches & monasteries over the last 18 centuries. They actually have a Book of Psalms from the 4th century. Both were exquisite!
Not so exquisite was a puppet show we went to. Granted it was geared for children...but let's just say it was entertaining for them! Really thought the puppet making & movements was quite simple.
That same afternoon, we went to the Cairo Aquarium...and we thought the puppet show was "simple!" Inside a crudely cave formation, dirty glassed boxes displayed stuffed, dusty fish, turtles, alligators & coral...or pickled jars of them! There were a few 10 gallon tanks with small fish...goldfish being the most predominant. Really!!
Finally the local cinemas was showing a Hollywood movie, A Star is Born so of course, we went and munching popcorn & sitting in that elegant setting felt like home.
There's no place like home...or Cairo!!






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Wednesday, February 6, 2019

Update 32

Here's a story I wrote which will be used for fundraising for the prison ministry here at the church where are we are staying and that houses Refuge Egypt.  I wrote it after my visit to the prison. 

"I was in prison and you came to me."  Matthew 25:36


It was a tiny slice of the life of the woman prisoner we met…mostly because of the hours of boredom and cold as we waited to be admitted to the visitation room.  Hours but not three years waiting as she has already endured. Finally, we were led into a chaotic and noisy room filled with female prisoners dressed entirely in white and family members with bags of food, blankets and books for their loved one.  The woman I came to visit had no family in Egypt.  

My visit had been arranged by the Prison Ministry of the Episcopal/Anglican Diocese of Egypt.  This outreach program provides transportation to/from the Kanater prison as well as funds to purchase many items necessary to survive in prison to women and men from foreign countries.  Those funds come from generous donations by individuals and groups.  We are writing to invite you to be one of those generous individuals.  Perhaps hearing the rest of my story will inspire you to donate.

The woman I met with was from Italy.  She had come to Egypt on a holiday with a friend.  For some reason beyond her understanding, the police invaded her hotel room and arrested her for "thinking of buying drugs."  She was taken to prison and now for three years, she has waited for her day in court.  Her family in Italy has spent thousands of dollars on lawyers yet there has been no opportunity for her to plead her case.

Her young daughter grows up without her.  Her husband visits when he can.  In the meantime, the Prison Ministry visitors are her only outside contact.  She tells me prison has strengthened her faith as it is all she has now.  She says she will be brave and bold.  Just before I left, the other women who had been visited by Prison Ministry volunteers joined hands and as a group, they sang "You are close.  Alleluia!"  Dressed in all white tunics, (required outfit) it was like a choir of Angels singing.

Please help fulfill Jesus' words, "I was in prison and you came to me" by donating to this most worthy cause.  

 

 


Update 31 by Roger

You probably have heard...
"you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone! They paved paradise and put up a parking lot."
In Cairo, the opera house burned so they replaced it with a parking lot.

We find ourselves in a place where we are constantly reminded that what we've got is SO much more.

The refugees travel a good distance to wait in line for hours so that they can register to get some food. Then they return another day to wait again and finally get a bag that will feed them for only a few meals. They will qualify to come back in about one month for another bag. There is no way to know how they manage between visits. Few appear to have jobs.

Maybe we don't know what we've got, but we know that it feels very wrong for these friendly, grateful people to have so little. They are beautiful people with gorgeous babies and they deal with all of the issues that others face but with very few resources and almost no money.

When asked about eating, Hazma, man in our class, said that he doesn't eat breakfast...he doesn't eat lunch, either. He does not complain about it. It is just how it is.

Sunday, February 3, 2019

Update 30

It's so nice having a grocery store close & a frig so we can have lunch & snacks in our room. Most mornings Rog goes to the breakfast room for coffee, cheese sandwich & yogurt with honey and brings me back boiled eggs, cheese, bread & yogurt. I chop the eggs & add mayo and tada...we enjoy egg salad sandwiches for lunch along with Pringles, fruit & a Coke Lite. Some days we make PB sandwiches...PB is expensive at $7 a jar. Since we're working here on campus all day...it's nice to be so close to lunch. We have cheese & cracker & yogurt for snacks. My supply of M & M's I brought from home keeps my sweet tooth happy.
We almost always go out for dinner. There's a huge selection of restaurants close by...cheap Egyptian street food to some elaborate places we probably will not go to. We usually share a meal for about $6 or less and that's enough. There's Lebanese, Syrian, Sudanese, Thai, Chinese, Mexican, Pizza Hut, McD, KFC and lots of just family owned no names. There's a Syrian place right on this campus which we've been too several times...service is slow & we've never gotten what we thought we'd ordered...but the owner loves us & he and all his workers touch their hearts & say thank you and shake our hands when we leave. It's hard to sneak by there as they stand at the door and invite us in. We have to say we're just going for a walk!
Desserts are expensive and usually only in coffee shops. We've indulged a few times. There's a bakery on the corner we turn on coming & going and often it has warm goodies cooling & calling our name when we walk by. Why not???
I've must say I've enjoyed the food here more than anywhere else we've traveled to...even without real Diet Coke. Probably won't be losing my normal 5-10 lbs this winter!!


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Pyramids








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Sphinx








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Pyramids








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Update 29

We made it to the Pyramids!!! It is a sight to behold!!! They've certainly stood the test of time...4500+years and counting.
We'd met a guy at the Metro stop (our white skin says tourist loud & clear) who led us right to the carriage & horse stables where he set us up with a guide & ride (we're sure he got a cut) and in no time, our guide maneuvered us through the huge crowd of 99% Egyptians ...mostly by squeezing around the barriers & pushing and shoving, making a space for us.
The panoramic view you get as you enter is surreal. Massive. Iconic. Dusty. By carriage we passed the majority of the visitors and reached the base of the pyramid quickly. Then we climbed onto two kneeling camels who then rose up to about 7'. We rode around the base of a pyramid which once stood 146m high but has been lowered by the wind & rain by 9m and it's limestone finish all but gone. At one point, my camel refused to step over a chain, broke his lead rope & headed back to where we started. Luckily rather slowly. Many guides kept saying, "It's okay lady!" After about 200' of unleashed freedom...another guide slowly reached up & grabbed my camel's bridle. I kinda thought it was exciting!
Next we crawled down into the tunnel leading to the tomb inside the pyramid. It was totally dark so good thing our phone had a flashlight! The tunnel ended at the sarcophagus. Eerie . It was a heavy thought just thinking about the weight above you! We hiked around a bit then got back in the carriage to get to the sphinx that has stood guard in from for all these years. He still sits proudly and majestically in spite of some missing pieces.
These pyramids & the sphinx are the only one of the Seven Ancient Wonders that remains.
Sooo...you'd think after over 4000 years of being a tourist site, they'd have it set up perfectly. Far from it!!! The entrance gate was jammed & we were literally pushed through it. The area all around the pyramids was congested and chaotic. Horsing galloping, carts, camels & people going in every which direction. Poop everywhere. People climbing up on the pyramids and picnicking on fallen blocks. The tunnels into the pyramids completely dark with only a dirty fluorescent light lying on the ground by the sarcophagus.
All I can say is, it's a good thing those ancient Egyptians built mighty strong & durable pyramids cause we were thrilled to be able to see them!!
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Update 28

I was out in search of a Coke Lite...my regular vendor was not open...and I not only found a Coke Lite but also ended up with US movies!! How?? Long story...
It all started when the clerk (who turned out to be the manager) of a nearby store spoke English to me. We chit chatted for a bit and then I asked him where he learned his English. He grinned & said, "Hollywood movies! I Love Hollywood movies!" I said we had not been able to find any movies in English on our tv and asked him what channel they were on. Again the big grin when he told me, "I download them. I have so many. If you want I'll download for you!" He told me to check to see of our tv had a USB port & if so, let him know. We did, so I did. Rog joined me. We asked our newest friend where to buy a flash drive. He said to follow him. We did. He left work & walked us to a shop. We took the flash drive back to his store, he pulled out his computer, showed us many movies to pick from. We picked out a few & while he downloaded them, insisted on treating Roger to a cup of Turkish coffee. In about 10 minutes, we had 10 movies. I think he was more excited than us!
We made a stop at the grocery store where I'd previously spied microwave popcorn which I came home, popped in the breakfast nook microwave...and BabbaBingBabbaBoom...
Movie & Popcorn Night!!
(The Bird Box)

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Saturday, February 2, 2019

Update 27

The priest here had mentioned to us that there would be a special musical performance on Friday night so we planned to attend for a while just hear some of the local talent.  Why not??  
We have noticed very little music here on the streets or even in shops and restaurants, so  it was a surprise to find the church full of people excitedly awaiting the performance.  
The performance started (20min late/known here as Egyptian time) with a grand piano soon followed by a violin.  It was soon clear that they were both very talented and they played music that was not familiar to us but it was excellent. Possibly classical Egyptian if there is such a category? 
In the hands of the performer the violin seemed to come alive and  live on its own.  It was hard to believe that the man was actually using it to make the sounds that we heard. 
Again there was a plan to honor us as volunteers and have us recognized but we had slipped out early to have popcorn and a movie.  How gauche of us!  As we left the director actually followed us and asked if we liked the performance. How can you explain that it was great but you also chose to leave early?  


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Update 26 by Roger


We were invited to attend an opening of a new tech room which is in the 2nd floor of the building where we are staying.  We thought they were just being polite asking us to come.  We were told that we would meet the Bishop of the Anglican Church whose office is also in this building.  
We arrived on time but as usual waited about 1/2 hour for others to arrive.  Then we were told that the Director of the Alexandria Library was coming.  When he arrived he shook our hands along with clergy and priests who were there.  They asked us to move to the front.  We were being treated like very special visitors!      
 After consuming a plate of sweet desserts, there were some speeches which focused on the the importance of using technology to help Egypt advance.
It was also emphasized that all religions and atheists, too, should work together to make Egypt a better place for all.
Then we, along with all of the notable priests and directors, were escorted into the new tech room. It is modern and everyone admired the fine job that had been done to complete it.
We felt more than a little out of place to be included with this group, then they passed out souvenir gifts to all of the dignitaries who attended-a plain black pen in a nice box. Again, we were included.  
Never did actually get introduced to the Bishop; however, we did meet his wife. They have shown appreciation for our presence here in many ways!
We just never know what's will happen next around here!

Friday, February 1, 2019

Update 25

On Sunday, we decided to check out other areas in or near Cairo. We headed for a large park marked on our map...of course Roger got us there...but the park was totally over grown, dilapidated & full of dogs & litter. What a shame!! Where do the almost 20 million people living in Cairo go to enjoy nature & open space?
On our walk back, we went by an enormous pink complex with spacious & manicured gardens. We just got a glimpse of it when the thick medal door opened to let someone out. We asked the guard about the complex and he said, "Police Night Club. For police only." Guess it's a fringe benefit for the policemen here!
Rog had studied the metro system & since Monica (American RE staff member) had invited us to visit her at the refugee community center she & her husband run, we headed there by metro.
The metro was quick, clean & not very crowded on a Sunday afternoon. We rode for about 40 minutes & got off near her center.
Monica had arranged for us to meet her at the only US restaurant around, KFC. It was a bit of a challenge to wade through the bustling market streets of this impoverished area, over the tracks & around a block...but we found it. We enjoyed a KFC meal while we waited. Two of their staff timidly asked for a picture with them. We do stick out as foreigners ...especially in this area.
Monica found us & we all climbed into a TukTuk which took us to their center. Two mattresses & a pile of lumber blocked the door. When we started to move them, a man (probably the one who owned the stuff) came to help.
Their center's goals are to empower the refugees and encourage & build positive relationships between the refugees from all countries. They teach life skills, provide activities & teach English.
We sat in on the English class Monica was teaching. She is a natural—though was only trained as an engineer. She asked for our input so Rog pulled out a balloon & we played a review game that went well. Then she splint the class into 3 groups & each of us spent time practicing reading. I was in my happy place!
I'm amazed that not only did Monica leave the comforts of USA behind but also now lives with her husband & two small children in such a poor area and spends her free time lifting up the refugees there. In her RE office there are many bible quotes about what Jesus says about helping other and the question, "What Would Jesus Do?" She knows and does it wholeheartedly !!
An image I will carry for a long time is of a young boy in torn shorts & no shirt sitting on the tracks fanning a small fire in the cool evening.

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Update 24

We teach around 20 students...mostly 18-23 yr olds...two days a week for 1/1/2 hours each. What a joy! Rog and I bounce the main teaching back & forth and add humor & jabs. We and the students laugh often. We teach Level 3 which means they can converse some with us but between their accent and use of grammar, we strain to understand bu there's progress each time we meet...both in them and us. We've also subbed in Level 1 & Level 8 so we've seen the range. It was good to get that perspective. The course was developed by Cambridge and the teacher's manual is much like many of the ones we've used before but with the ESL (English as Second Language) component added. Rog & I study and plan out the lesson so it flows well. The hour & a half flies by. As the students leave, each stops to shake each of our hands and say thank you teacher.
Did you ever stop to think how lucky we are not only to be born in our rich & bountiful USA...but to have English...our own language...the universal language? It's the language that so many people want and need to learn to be more successful!

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Thursday, January 31, 2019

Babies









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The courtyard









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Food supplies









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Update 23

The longer we're here...the more jobs RE has for us...which gives me less time to write! We've done lots of teaching, editing for staff who need to write reports in English (which most have no training in), book binding, sorting & distributing clothing, registering new refugees and whatever else comes us. In between jobs, we've been filling rice & lentil bags. We start with a grain sack full, scoop about 5 cups of rice/beans into a bag & tie & repeat. We get about 25 bags per grain sack. There's piles of grain bags pilled up to the ceiling—job security!! After we get a huge pile of both rice & bean bags—we put one of each along with prepackaged bags of macaroni & sugar and a bottle of oil into a large bag. That's what each family will get when they are approved.
Yesterday was distribution day and we had the privilege to hand a bag to each of the 175 or so refugees families who qualified...so many appreciative smiles!! It only took 2 hours but I still feel the glow!
We'll need to start bagging more for the next round...but those smiles will make the job so satisfying!

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Update 22

We've moved onto the RE campus and are now even more accessible to the RE staff, our students and the many refugees who sit in the courtyard in front...waiting for interviews, food, clothing, classes, rides or just waiting. It's a safe spot to sit and enjoy each other's company and the sun.
When I see babies...which is almost always...I make a beeline to them. The Mom's are happy to let me hold their babies. I play patty cake, peek-a-boo, make silly faces and always manage to get toothless smiles and sweet coos. And I can understand everything they say...they speak the same language as the American babies!!
Yesterday I met a young man with a 20 day old baby. She'd only been in Egypt for 3 months...do the math...she was 7 months pregnant when she journey here from Eritrea . How desperate was she to leave home then??
Usually I hand out several balloons to the older kids which makes their faces light up...their parents also give me a huge smile. Hours later I see them still playing with their balloon ...such a satisfying feeling.
Rog is usually hanging out with the older young adults who mill around here and love practicing their English.
We've seen a few of them a number of time. A young 16 year old from South Sudan using a crutch told us his back was injured in the war...and his whole family killed. Somehow he's gotten passage to the UK where he'l get an operation & then hopefully find a job. He spoke with a lilt in his voice & his eyes shone with excitement. He asked for our email so he could write & practice his English. I so wanted to hand him lots of $$ to ease his path...but have to respect RE rules to let them make the $ decision.
Another young man eager to find work has talked to us almost daily. He was a teacher in his home village...now a war zone.
If we new Arabic...the stories would be endless.
A large stone shaped like a book sits in the middle of the courtyard. It reads " Out of Egypt Have I called My Son." Truly this church embodies Jesus' command to care for the vulnerable! Perhaps His words sunk in more here where He spent part of His life. We feel so humbled to be a small part of it.

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Saturday, January 26, 2019

Mosque pics








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Update 21 by Roger

The Iraqi
We had been wandering the Egyptian National Museum for almost three hours. Mummy after mummy, King Tut's treasures, and display cases filled with toy size replicas of people and tools which were placed in the tombs to serve the pharaoh in the afterlife.
We were in an enclosed area when he came up and asked if we were Americans. He was from Iraq and he had lost three family members during U.S. military action there.
He asked, Why does a country that has everything continue to kill millions of people all over the world? He listed country after country along with huge numbers killed in each. Korea, Vietnam, Iraq, and Afghanistan just to start.
As we listened I thought about the reasons / justifcations for each conflict and also how grateful I have been for our soldiers who put their lives on the line to serve our country.
He said that the Americans he meets are good people but our government is out of control. His opinion...but how many people around the the world also think this is true?

Friday, January 25, 2019

Ottoman museum pics






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market pictures



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Egyptian museum pics






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Egyptian museum pictures






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Update 20

Here's a few juxtapositions we've seen recently:
-A huge CAT dirt mover passed by a donkey pulled cart
-A Christian church with a Muslim security guard
-A Muslim woman wearing a hijab walking by a stall selling sexy Cleopatra outfits
-Looking out our airport window: the green rich Nile delta next to the barren desert...you could almost draw a straight line to divide the two

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Update 19

RE was closed for the next two days to celebrate Revolutionary Day (1954 independence from British). We headed to the Egyptian Museum...and we're overwhelmed! All those tombs we saw had been loaded with jewelry, furniture, miniature weapons & servants, pottery, food, clothing, sarcophagus & mummies...and all these treasures filled the museum....and we heard only 15% were on display. One area alone held about 120 sarcophaguses!! Two temperature controlled rooms were the "tomb" for about 20 mummies.
We were both feeling like it was just sooo wrong that all this was taken out of their tombs...and the mummies out of their personal caskets...just so we could gawk at them! But then we read the display describing how the tombs were being robbed*, plundered & destroyed for years before the Egyptian gov't decided to protect them by housing them in this museum built in 1858. (*Gurda was named in particular...we wondered if related to our guest house family???)
After about 3 hours, we couldn't digest any more. We grabbed a sandwich & Cheetos ...love a taste from home :). Then to market-to-market to buy...a sweater & that's it. But we did see anything & everything including butchered meats, veges, spices, raw wool, breads, bedding, clothing, kitchen stuff, water pipes & every known trinket there is!! Khan el Khalili filled narrow & winding streets crammed with stalls & customers but still motorcycles raced through the cracks of space. Totally crazy.
Our second day off, we headed to RE to the English church service & enjoyed visiting with others from many other countries. Then we crawled into a Tuk Tuk & headed for the Ottoman museum & a mosque built in 263AD and ended up at the Citadel which included the Muhammad Ali Mosque & the Police Museum. It was a delightful to see many young families enjoying the open space...and it made us grin to be asked a couple times to have us in their pictures.
It was a perfect way to spend the Egyptian Revolutionary Day...much like our 4th of July...and we even got to watch fireworks from our hotel room!

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Update 18

My birthday! Sun shone brightly into our room...a birthday treat for me! Ate breakfast at our hotel...impressive buffet..then off to RE. Rog did some one on one teaching with a priest, Joshua. For 1 1/2 hours he pronounced & explained the meaning of words Joshua didn't know from the Bible! Imagine that...Rog teaching a priest about the Bible. Cracked me up! I copied & stapled English midterm test and then both of us edited an English power point presentation the Doctor here prepared & is going to give. She needed help with the grammar & spelling.
While we were eating lunch, a young boy selling flowers kept giving me pleading eyes as he sat on the curb with cars rushing by within inches. I couldn't resist so I got flowers for my birthday. :)
We got our lesson plans for the class we're teaching later when we got back so we spent some time prepping. It's a beginners class of 20 some students. We practiced introductions, saying the letters names & the correct way to use Mr., Mrs. and Miss. The students were engaged & freely participated. It was fun & easy for us!
On our way back to our room, we stopped to buy rich desserts which we thoroughly enjoyed. The miracle of Messenger made it possible for me to get birthday wishes from most of my kids & grandkids!! I stayed up late reading the Facebook birthday wishes & felling very special.
So another birthday in another country...lucky me!!

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Update 17

Moving on up!! That's been our experience here in Cairo—from a horrid first night, to a much better room ($40) though cold & we had to swat flies on a regular basis—to a fabulous 16th floor room with a view of the Nile and a heater!! It's ironic how it all worked out. When the reservations for one ran out, we had to move and for $15 more, we got this luxurious room. If only we'd known!! In 4 days we'll be moving again to the room right on the All Saints campus—for just $20 a night...wondering if we'll be moving up or down?
Our walk to RE is about the same. It's funny how quickly it feels like home when you walk the same streets two or more times a day...see the same store keepers, shoe shiners, street sweepers, boys parking cars, etc...The man who sells Coke Lite is my buddy & waves even when I don't stop for a 30cent can.
This morning we worked on our lesson plans before heading to RE. Once there we both worked on sorting & distributing clothes. Not sure where it all comes from but comes in 100 lb grain bags which we dump on a table, let the refugees dig through as we try to sort a bit.
At 3, we went to our classrooms to make sure we could play the soundtrack that goes with our lesson & set up for class. At 3:30 class started...with 1 student on time. By 3:45 about 10 & by 4 we had 12. We spent some time learning a bit about each. Four of the boys had let their home country alone...family still there...probably avoiding being forced to join the military. Now they told us they hope be be a teach, chef, doctor & a salesman. I pray they can!!
Lesson went well as the kids were anxious to learn & felt free to ask questions. The 1 1/2 hour raced by & so many thanked us as they left. Ahh...we both love teaching. We celebrated eating at Pizza Hut!

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Thursday, January 24, 2019

Update 16 by Roger

Every time we are out on the street we see some unfortunate people who are in need.
Old men or ladies sit on a piece of cardboard waiting for a passerby to give something to them. Some have a package of tissue that they hold out to us hoping for a bit more than they paid for it. Others just hold out their hand in the the universal gesture, or if hungry they put their hand to their mouth to make it clear.
I notice a boy walking from person to person with his hand out, then a man reaches into his pocket and nonchalantly passes a small bill to the boy.
A child sits in a broken plastic chair blocking a parking space until someone needs it, then he collects some baksheesh for "saving" the spot for the driver.
I am approached by a man speaking in Arabic asking me something. I don't understand...then he says in English, "Give me dollar." I don't want to encourage him to beg so I keep walking but I think about him a lot. Soon after that another man is crawling across the road on his hands and knees. His bare legs wave uselessly behind him. He has no feet. He can survive here only through the generosity of those around him.
I am not going to change the way that people get help here by any action I take or don't take. It seems so sad to us, but this is how it works here. And it has been this way for a very long time. The attitude is "you have some and I don't so share a bit of what you have". Baksheesh.
It's not hard to understand. It is just different from what we are accustomed to. Maybe we should rethink some of our customs.
I will be changing my ways and rather than trying to discourage them by ignoring their behavior I will offer what they want which is just a small amount. I will feel better and they will feel better about us, too.
Maybe travel does change us.


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Update 15 by Roger

We stopped to visit with four women refugees from Eritrea while they were eating lunch.
Mona proudly told us that she was the elder sister and that she will soon be graduating from the cleaning class. She was excited because she will now be able to get a job and earn about 3000 Egyptian Pounds each month (about $175). Because food and other necessities are cheap here she will be OK but she will live on the edge.
When I mentioned the refugees to a local man, he said that they will basically be slaves to the rich people who hire them.
I am hopeful that the women will continue to improve their skills and move on to better paying jobs.


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Wednesday, January 23, 2019

Update 14

Mohammed took us to the airport by 8 & we felt like we were leaving a good friend. Back in Cairo, we soon headed out to Refuge Egypt & quickly got put to work. Rog registering new refugees & I passed out & sorted clothes. Next @200 students came to pay ($6) & be assigned classes based on the results of last week's testing. Kind of chaotic. It took 4 staff & 4 volunteers to get it done in 3 hours. What made it so rewarding was knowing many of these young, eager kids came from countries where there had been no education for years due to war. As one boy said, "We are so blessed to be here!" And so are we.

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Update 13

Another day...another temple! But we'd save the best for last: Karnak. More & bigger pillars, statues, gateways, carvings, sphinx...and tourist. Really the first time we waited in a line. We lost the crowd by hiking to the end...about 900 Ft and slowly making our way back gaping at the quantity, quality & size. I have no more descriptive words to use after writing about the sights we've already seen these last 3 days. You know that savoring feeling you get when you eat the last bite..the moist center of a gooey warm cinnamon bun...maybe that describes how I felt.
In the nearby Luxor Museum we saw 2 mummies—one believed to be Ramses I. It had been lying around in some Niagara Falls Oddity spot, then purchased for $2M by U of Georgia, examined & ID'd and finally put to rest in the Luxor Museum...a good will offering!:). Also in the museum was a wooden box...totally decorated...a smaller box also decorated that fit inside it...believed to be the coffin of a wealthy African woman who died almost 4000 years ago. Dang that's old! Most of the stone statues in the museum were found in 1989 right on the Karnak grounds. (See Louise it's not too late!)
Our taxi driver (same one we've been with many times), Mohammed took us to "the best Egyptian food" in Luxor. We shared the meal and as usual, it was more than enough. Of all our travels, I think I've enjoyed Egyptian food the best...except desserts aren't offered.
Then we went to the hotel that Mohammed had arranged—he probably got a cut for it & the restaurant too. It was also a relic of the past...once elegant & a gem...now fading fast. A huge empty dining room with dusty table, a pool surrounded by worn out lounge chairs, many broken mirrors, etc...but adequate for one night.
After grabbing our jackets, we headed to the Nile malecon where we'd met a boat owner earlier who'd promised us a romantic sunset ride for $20..and it was. We admired the large sail boats & fancy huge cruise ships...but as usual, we were happy to travel more simply.
It's amazing what you can see in just 3 days!
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Sunday, January 20, 2019

Update 12

From our room I heard children chanting and so off I went to find the source. Under a cane stalked roof on a dusty floor covered particulate by mats, I found an older man with a long stick point to a chipped blackboard covered with Arabic & a mass of children chanting the words. Shortly, he cam over to see me & when I asked if I could stay, he grinned & said certainly. I watched as he moved among the grouped students...about 70...getting each group to recite or read from a book they held. Often 3 groups were reciting at the same time but different lessons. Kids not under his direct supervision were doing the what you'd expect...swatting each other, pulling hair, tossing paper wads...mostly the boys...made me smile.
At one point, the teacher brought 2 very young girls over & had them recite the ABC's & spell some words for me. He tenderly put his hand on the shoulder of one of them and said she is very smart & comes to school every day. Putting his hand on the other, he said she too was very smart but did not come to school as often...then shook his head.
After about 30 minutes, the teacher dismissed one group at a time having the last group clean up. Then the teacher came over sit by me (I was on a block of cement holding up a post.). When I told him I'd been a teacher, he grinned & said "Then you understand." As I'd suspected, he'd divided the kids by levels..not age...six mats...K-5. Pretty sure he didn't do a formal testing. If I understood him correctly, many of the kids go to another school maybe in the morning as he only taught in the afternoon.
He had been teaching 30 years. He grinned when I complimented him on the kindness he showed his students, the control he had over the large group & the respect the students had for him. I love being in classrooms..anywhere & everywhere!!

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Update 11

Makmoud is the eldest male of the family who runs our guest house. He enjoys visiting with us & we encourage it. Often he and several of his family are gathered around a fire outside their home in the early morning & again late evening. They always offer us tea which even I accept. He has 7 children & says "over 40 grandkids." He proudly took us into his home to show us pictures of his grandfather, father & some of his family pictures hanging on the adobe walls. He smiled saying his grandfather went by camel to Mecca. It took him 6 months one way. His father by car & he by airplane. His daughter showed us the gigantic bowl of bread dough she was going to bake in the outside domed oven later.
Each morning Makmoud wakes at 3 am & goes to his mosque to pray until 6 am. Talk about devotion! These mornings he's wrapped in a couple long blankets like coats...but says he like it better now than when it is hot. Warm weather brings mosquitoes, scorpions & cobras. Made us appreciate being here now & will stop moaning about being chilled!!!
Makmoud has a keen sense of humor and walks & talks very slowly. A feeling of peace and contentment seems to linger in his presence.

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Update 10

The sun kissed the horizon & the prayers from the mosque filled the air as our techno colored balloon glided over the ruins of the ancient Egyptian temples & tombs, our guest house and the small village near of KomLoLa. Tiny men cutting sugar cane, women hanging clothes, cows & goats in stables, water being pumped in rice paddies, donkeys pulling cart loads of grass & veges, truckload of men on their way to work, roofs storing grains & straw...such a menagerie of scenes with only the occasional donkey bray & the whoosh of the fire lifting our balloon breaking the silence. Our first balloon ride...an excellent & uplifting experience !!
We came down from our high & took off most of our 5 layers of clothing then went off to explore the Rameseum ruins built by Ramses II who called it his Temple of a Million Years—that's a man with a vision! He'd be disappointed that only 29 of the original 130 columns still stand and the 18' statue of himself is mostly huge chunks lying at his feet...& it's only about 3000 years old.
As we finished eating lunch, we met Nubi who told us he was the grandson of the man who showed the famous archeologist Carter where to find King Tut's tome. He proudly pointed to the picture hunting in the restaurant showing his grandfather wearing the golden belt of King Tut & standing next to Carter. How can you doubt him?
Between admission fees, balloon ride, taxi rides & the every need to tip, it was time to find an ATM. When we asked about finding one, Nubi, of course, was a taxi driver too & you'd think in the Valley of the Kings that would be easy...wrong. Nubi took us to the nearest one. No go. Took us to one farther away. No go. So finally he dropped us at the ferry so we could cross the Nile to the East Bank of Luxor—much more developed part. With a sigh of relief, we found on ATM that worked.
It was close to a McD so, why not?? It was the first McD (besides India) where I couldn't just get a small burger...smallest one was the 1/4 lb.
Right across the stree was the Luxor Temple with a mosque built within the ruins. We were escorted first into the mosque where there were several open matted prayer rooms & 2 overly decorated caskets of a beloved sheikh & his son who lived 800 yrs ago. As we exited, our guide looked us in the eyes and said so sincerely, "All people, Muslims, Hindu, Christians should not look at faces but only into their hearts. All should live in peace." Shalom is a common greeting here. Wish it was everywhere!
We then checked out the rest of the Luxor Temple. This one is bigger & more preserved than ones we've already seen. I know...how can that be?? Almost 30 sphinx line both sides of the entrance...and the archeologist are still uncovering them. They believe the line of sphinx extends 3km to the entrance of the Karnak Temple! Imagine that!! Seeing all these magnificent carved stone work makes me thing of the slaves & Moses' words, "Let my people go." (Not sure if the time frame fits —will have to check that out.)
Back on the ferry (always one of my favorite rides), we went back to KimLoLa and our cozy guest house.
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Tomb pictures









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Balloon pictures









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Pictures of classroom & Luxor Temple









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Pictures on Nile & Karnak Temple










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