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Sister Liz booked our hotel room in Guatemala City…the nicest…and safest which is probably why she booked it here. It is gorgeous…first hair dryer, robes, safe etc….  The gated hotel had many stores, food choices and movie theaters.  We ate some lunch & wandered about waiting for Sisters Liz & Annie.  I am sure my heart missed a beat when I spotted them.  Eight months of emails back & forth and finally together.  They were excited as we were. They were also tired (after all, one is 84 & the other 69) so they went to rest and Rog & I went to the pool.  Three wine glasses & one Diet Coke toasted our rendezvous!  7 AM we were in their jeep with Annie at the wheel headed toward their mission.  We made several stops along the way to break up the trip…breakfast, groceries, hardware, pick up a hearing aide & dinner.  We were awed by the mountain panoramic views & by all the stories the sisters shared with us.  We learned about the background of the indigenous people they work with…how they have been persecuted, how the mining companies are destroying their land, how the drug lords take over their land, earthquakes & flooding devastations and the government crackdown on the religious missionaries that left many dead.  Sister Liz told me more about the Presentation Sisters, her earlier missions and we both laughed about family stories.  At 5 pm, we arrived at San Jose Clinic in Conception Talapa.

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7:30 AM we climbed into a nice van and headed to Guatemala City.  We were stopped by several people who told us there was an accident ahead so we turned around…only to be stopped a few more times…and finally we turned around and headed out the way we originally planned. There had been an accident earlier but now it was cleared up.  There were only 9 in the van…such luxury!  Two from Maine had been on a chicken bus when a guy on top had fallen off…he jumped off & checked the man’s pulse and wanted to keep him immobilized…but the driver & another guy, picked him up & held on to him until they got to a medical center where they dropped him off with a bag of money that the people on the bus had donated to help cover the cost.  Good people.  Another couple in our van was from Belgium and I learned a lot about their schools…4 ½ days a week with lots of homework, everyone learning at least 3 languages, tracked in HS and many trained for jobs…the less motivated go just 2 days a week meeting mostly with a social worker (which he was) who tries to encourage them toward a more positive life.  The girl worked for Red Cross in the refugee program.  Belgium accepts many refugees who can have unlimited stay with bed, food, medical & a small amount of money.  Most who get to Belgium were at least middle class in their war torn homeland and most were there because of some religious conflict.  That led us to a discussion about religion.  They said most Belgium churches and others in most northern European countries were mostly empty.  Belgians feel religion is a private matter and they do not need to go to a public church.  Most do not like the Catholic church as an institution…too rich & showy…which led to a discussion of money.  50+% of their income goes to taxes, 30+% goes to mortgage is they buy a house…which many young people cannot afford today.  Most like the Euro but realize that Germany & France control their economy.  The final rider was an older American man who has come to San Pedro for 7 years…plays his harp for dinner & has a local carpenter cut wood, an artist paint it and he brings them back to the USA so he can build harps.  As always, a huge part of what we love about traveling is the people we meet.

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Images not to be forgotten: 

-Old Barbie doll redressed in traditional clothing with accessories of flat pan & several tortillas

-As we sit at an internet café, an older man with a load of split wood on his back drops it in front of the restaurant across from us

-Terrace gardens which started at the lake and went up many yards up to a nice home

-one speed boat & two seadoos is all that we saw on the huge Lake Atitlan

-man peddling bike with cooler filled with ice cream treats attached on rear and playing a catchy tune while riding down the road

 

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Antigua...the old capital...the old, old city filled with monsterous ruins from it's glory years...and tourist from many countries.  Here the streets are all cobblestones...the size of baseballs...the stores & restaurants are ancient buildings & homes re-purposed without losing the character of the original building.  Two city blocks are crammed with handicraft items:  bags, purses, wood carvings, belts, ceramic figures, cultural clothing & trinkets so numerous it just overwhelms you as you walk by shop after shop as the merchants hound you..."Lady like a pretty scarf?  I have beautiful blouse.  Many color.  You want to buy bag?  I give you good price today.  Only for you. etc. etc."  If you dare let your eyes fall on an item, the sales pitch gets louder & faster...and if you pick up an item to examine it...good luck trying to get away!  Honestly, I would have like to buy more than I did but the suitcase space & weight is a good deterrent.  We followed a walking tour and located all the sites and learned much about the history of this city.  I especially enjoyed visiting an ancient convent that took up a whole city block.  It had a circular room where about 30 small cells had served a bedrooms.  I was surprised to see how many of the other rooms were now used as offices with hardly any change to the original decaying walls.  Of course, churches outnumbered the gov't buildings and one of each had been restored.  Another convent has also been restored including the archway above the street that provided a path for the nuns so they couldn't be seen crossing the street.  That convent is now a hotel.  Domes sit majestically on top of most every building and the wall that surrounds Antigua is covered with flowering vines.  And the backdrop to this beauty are three towering volcanoes...one that almost destroyed the city and one still quite active which Rog saw proof of.  Another active one, Pacaya is about an hour away.  We arranged a tour and around 4 pm we began the ascent...it was hot, steep & unstable.  After about 2 km, I gave into the guy who was walking behind me & leading a horse who every time I sat down to rest, would ask "Taxi?".  It was a blow to my pride...but I did enjoy the views much more...and the views were magnificent.  The winds picked up as we reached the bottom of the clouds...which luckily cleared for us so we could see the mountain top spouting steam!!  We also found a hot spot and roasted marshmallows in a crack in the lava that we were standing on.  Another lady had strawberries which she shared with us so we feasted & enjoyed the sights around us until almost sunset.  Then we hiked down...no horse ride...stopping only to take in the ever changing hues of the sunset over the mountains & valleys that surrounded us.  Covered with lava dust, we arrived back to our hotel ready for a shower and bed.

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We left our hotel a bit after 9 and were on a bus to Antigua by 9:30.  It was the usual "old school bus" and the road was really curvy and we got slammed around on every curve like on a tilt a whirl...but we felt very safe as the front of the bus displayed a prayer, a Blessed Mother with a bouquet of fake flowers & a Tweety Bird!  A family of 7 sat in one seat right behid us part of the way, two of the kids jostling between the seat & the aisle and the baby cried a lot even though they gave her an ice cream cone that dripped all over the very calm mom.  There was also a lady holding a live chicken tenderly wrapped in her sweater...truly this was a chicken bus (which is actually what these buses are called here.)  Many trees and bushes were in bloom with flowers of vibrant to pastel shades of red, pink, fucia, purple, yellow & white.  As we got closer to "Whata" (Guate...short for Guatemala City), we came by mountain sides covered with cement homes with only a couple painted.  Then we saw some gated communities much richer.  Our favorite scene for the ride was a big stake truck with a load of calves that had 7 hammocks strung above the calves, with 7 guys swinging back & forth, and a couple more cowboys with their saddles sat on top just behind the cab. Since the bus stopped often but could go faster than the truck, we passed them several times...each time we'd get another laugh!  We got to the bus station around noon...it was very modern, gorgeous & huge...and we found our first McDonald's, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Subway & Little Caesars that we'd seen since leaving home.  I noticed that most of the people...who were all locals...were eating at Pollo Campero...the Guate fast food chain & very much like our KFC.  I enjoyed my "regular McD meal" which cost $5 here but only $3 at home while Rog found a doblado (deep fried meatpie).  We shared some Little Caesar cinnamon sticks with a carmel dip and both left with full tummies.  We taxied through town to the next bus terminal...buses are not allowed in Guate so 3 bus stations are all on the edge of town.  In 5 minutes we were off again and arrived in Antigua by 3:30... it amazes me how well Rog gets us from point A to point B!

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As we headed out for the bus to Antigua, we met a great Guatemalian family that had been in the States for 6 years.  The father was getting his masters degree in Agriculture.  The 10 -12 year old and I had a nice chat comparing her USA school, her Guatemalian private school & the Guatemalian public schools.  She said USA schools had more freedom & nicer facilities.  Her G private schools was tougher with about 20 in each class and teachers from around the world.  The G public schools had classes of 50 or so, no books and only taught reading, writing & math.  Kids paid about $50 to attend.  I would have enjoyed talking to her longer, but it was time to move on.

43

Our last day with the girls was delightful and emotional.  We did a review and hung two poster on which I had printed all the English we had taught.  We had prepared some relay games, but the girls put on a program for us instead.  It included singing, cultural dancing and speeches of gratitude and love.  We had shared much joy with these girls and Sister Ada and I had a huge lump in my throat and fought my tears as we said good bye and closed the door on yet another rewarding experience.  Thanks be to God.

42

Things we have seen and noticed here in Jalapa:

Qtips are about 1/3 the size & strength as ours

Colored pencils sold here are the ones impossible to sharpen

man carrying ladder...another a bicycle... while riding motorcycle

horse being shoed on the street

the sound of horses clip clopping down the street as we sat typing at an internet cafe

woman selling homemade food items in front of a nice restaurant

watch dogs behind barb wire fences on top of businesses

the sound of slapping as we pass so many woman making tortillas...about every ten feet

most children snacking while walking down the street

snack bags are tiny with usually only about 8 or 9 chips in them

security guards holding shotguns at every bank, gov´t building and other important buildings

no news on TV...lots of soccer!

children & woman riding on the handle bars of bicycles

women sorting dirty potatoes & other veges wearing fancy, clean aprons

students going home from school for lunch by tuktuk or being picked up by mom only to return 1 1/2 hour later

young girls in skin tight skirts or pants wearing 3 -4" heels buzzing about on motor scooters

though we see many wearing traditional clothing, they are not for sale anywhere...only the material

most kid´s toys..like so many other countries...are cheap plastic & dolls are all white with blonde hair

the rear end of buses cemented into the sidewalk are used for street corner barriers

daily they assemble & disassemble city blocks of small shops that are just angle iron & tarps  packing up the huge pile of                  merchandise in grain bags or crates....but we have no idea where the stuff goes at night...only to appear again the next day

and so much more that reminds us that we are not in the USA!

41

Our English lesson with the girls was a Valentine treat for all of us   The girls were thrilled to count to 100 and actually enjoyed taking a quiz with the new red pencils we gave them.  Then we played a review game and everyone ´won´ twice ...receiving a pencil sharpener & a chocolate heart.  The two nuns enjoyed it as much as the girls did and they sent us off with a frozen, chocolate covered banana.    Our 5 p.m. ride to Casa Hogar arrived on time and by 5:15 we had four groups of about 10 kids busy coloring, painting, working on a puzzles and making a Valentine hearts project.  The next hour and a half, we moved kids to each project and incorporated more kids adding projects as the numbers increased...and constantly we were returning the hugs & smiles we were receiving.  Conditions were rough...only a coarse cement floor & dim lighting...but that did not diminish the fun we were all having. 

When we got back to our hotel, we treated each other to a piece of cheese cake.  What a special Valentine Day! 

40

More about the man we met this morning as we waited for our ride:  he left Guatemala when he was about 27 to find a job in L.A., became a US citizen about 5 years later and has gone back & forth for the last 20 years...since a major operation last year he is no longer working.  He gladly shared his take on man´s life:  first 20 years is DOG'S LIFE...on the prowl looking for girls and staying out all hours of the night...followed by DONKEY LIFE...work hard to carry burden of family life....last part of life was MONKEY LIFE....play with grandchildren and  freedom from work...like a monkey swinging free & enjoying life.  

39

Yesterday, we scoured the streets most the day looking for things we might use to enrich the Valentine´s Day  for the children at Casa Hogar (the home for the abused &/or raped girls and their children).  We found crayons, colored pencils, coloring books, paints, red & pink construction paper, clay, puzzles & a frisbee.  We made samples of several projects and looked forward to having a chance to have fun with these kids who have so little.  We were told we would be picked up at 10 am....it is now 11 a.m. and we are sitting on a bench in front of our hotel with all our supplies....waiting.....it is now 11:45 and we just got a message,  translated by the man we met while waiting...and our new pick up time is now 5 p.m.  We have learned to become very flexible and patient....and also reminded that this is Guatemala time...not a bad thing.

38

Just when we begin to forget just how low the girls we are working with live, we get a `slap of reality.`  The girls had asked us to label the various things in their home so I spent an evening writing labels of the things in their home.  The next day the excited girls followed us around as we taped words all over their home:  wall, floor, classroom, chair, bedroom, bathroom, but when I looked for a place to hang `toilet paper`, they all laughed and said, ¨No toilet paper!¨ 

37

Our days are almost routine now...breakfast of pancakes with honey, fruit, coffee & rich delicious hot chocolate at the hotel...computer cafe...teaching nuns...lunch...lesson plans....teaching girls.... a little shopping on our way back to the hotel...dinner (often peanut butter & fresh bread from one of the many bakeries on the hotel terrace)...writing, reading, cards, TV (which since only one channel is in English, whatever is on is what we watch).  We have spent time at the humungous market in the center of town where tables overflow with mounds of clothing, shoes, kitchen supplies, and grain bags are filled with corn, broccoli, cauliflower, onions, carrots, oranges, pineapples and lots of unknown others and crates of bananas, eggs, chickens etc, etc, etc.  How in the world do they sell all this before it rots???   One morning the nuns were busy, so we jumped on a mini bus & headed to the Cascadas de Tatasirire...a nature park with swings that hung about 30' from a branch & swung out over a valley.  Wheeeee!  We walked the flower lined trail passing hundreds of giant lovely calilillies, pastel pink impatients plants taller than me and blooming phlox as big as a mixing bowl.  Butterflies fluttered by to add to the beauty.  The trail led us beside a 5 tiered waterfall and then into a pine forest...we saw nobody else the whole time.   What a nice change from being in Jalapa, a town of about 60,000.  

37

Our days are almost routine now...breakfast of pancakes with honey, fruit, coffee & rich delicious hot chocolate at the hotel...computer cafe...teaching nuns...lunch...lesson plans....teaching girls.... a little shopping on our way back to the hotel...dinner (often peanut butter & fresh bread from one of the many bakeries on the hotel terrace)...writing, reading, cards, TV (which since only one channel is in English, whatever is on is what we watch).  We have spent time at the humungous market in the center of town where tables overflow with mounds of clothing, shoes, kitchen supplies, and grain bags are filled with corn, broccoli, cauliflower, onions, carrots, oranges, pineapples and lots of unknown others and crates of bananas, eggs, chickens etc, etc, etc.  How in the world do they sell all this before it rots???   One morning the nuns were busy, so we jumped on a mini bus & headed to the Cascadas de Tatasirire...a nature park with swings that hung about 30' from a branch & swung out over a valley.  Wheeeee!  We walked the flower lined trail passing hundreds of giant lovely calilillies, pastel pink impatients plants taller than me and blooming phlox as big as a mixing bowl.  Butterflies fluttered by to add to the beauty.  The trail led us beside a 5 tiered waterfall and then into a pine forest...we saw nobody else the whole time.   What a nice change from being in Jalapa, a town of about 60,000.  

35

Sister Ada meet us at 9 and told us what Mother thought we should do.  We will be teaching English to the 25 girls and nuns & novices...starting today at 3.  We worked on lesson plans, walked around looking for picture books, checked out websites for learning English, wandered through a huge market and spotted a Dominoes Pizzaria...guess where we ate lunch!!  When we arrived at the girl's home....they were all sitting in their chairs with notebooks & pencils in hand wearing their school uniforms.  We spent the next hour teaching...with lots of giggles & effort and hopefully lots of learning.  Next the girls eagerly led us to their surprise...they had made us a cake...it was a real treat especially since their smiles surrounded us.  Then we all walked to a fenced in playground while the whole time the girls were asking ¨¨¿Como se dice?¨and pointing at all the objects they wanted us to name.  They asked us to play with them in a vigorous game of soccer which totally wore us out.   After many good byes and see you tomorrow...we walked back to our hotel.  

34

After our warm welcome, Mother Rutilia met with us and after explaining how and why we had come, she made a call to Rita (our nephew´´s inlaw's housekeeper) thanking her for sending us.  Then Sister Ada (who speaks excellent English), Mother & us walked a short distance to where about 25 girls from difficult backgrounds, were being cared for by the Sisters.   Again, we were greeted with songs, clapping, and jubilant chants.  Then the girls proudly showed us their home.  Simple but very neat and organized.  All of us got us a great laugh when they showed us where they would put their extra clothes...and it was empty.  Each of them hugged us as we left, chanting Thank you and Will you be our Godparents?  An old pick up truck was waiting for us and we went about 4km to another site where the Sisters were caring for many girls who had been sent to them by the police as many had been raped and had no home.  Several had babies.  Once more, we were welcomed with songs, chants, clapping and hugs.  We toured their facilities which included a dorm with 20 beds...triple bunks...classrooms where academics were taught as well as skills:  jewelry making, baking, hair dressing, sewing, and computers...all set up and supplied by USA donors.  Finally, we were taken to a hotel where Mother had arranged for us to stay.  It was the nicest place in town...for about $35 per night.  Sister Ada and two other young Sisters followed us to our room...wide eyed as they had never been inside the hotel before and after agreeing to meet ustomorrow at 9, they gave us hugs & left.  We fell on our bed, totally overwhelmed by the outpouring of love & care and were soon asleep...with prayers of thanksgiving.  We eagerly await tomorrow!

33

We set out for Jalapa which took us out into the mountains passing cactus, poor homes, seeing more litter & bars on windows and large industries...lots of truck traffic.  Jalalpa is a large city and the first tuk tuk we saw was parked in a gas station...where luckily the gas attendant spoke some English so he happily told the tuk tuk driver where we wanted to go.  He dropped us at the door of the Marta y Maria convent.  Let me explain....last summer, Aaron's (our nephew) in-laws visited us in Michigan and told us their housekeeper, Rita was from Jalapa. I phoned her and asked if she knew of a place where we might do some volunteer work and she gave me the address of Marta y Maria.  So with that little bit of information and our prayers asking God for guidance, we stood at the convent gate trusting we were in the right place.  After several confusing minutes trying to use the little Spanish we know, another Sister was called who spoke some English.  She led us into a room and said to please wait.  Shortly she returned and led us into a courtroom filled with about 100 nuns and novices who broke into jubilant welcoming songs accompanied by guitars, three marimbas, a bass violin and drums!!!  Finally they chanted with great vigor, "Bienvenidos y gracias!!"  (Welcome and thank you for coming).  My eyes filled with tears and my heart with gratitude.  We were asked if we would honor them by joining them at their simple meal...rice, beans, boiled eggs, tomato sauce & watermellon..as honored guest they set before us toast and jam for dessert and coffee.  Sister Monica from Kenya spoke English and sat with us a gave us some background infomation about the convent and their two missions in Jalapa.  After we finished, the nuns again loudly chanted how pleased they were that we had come and eaten with them.  

32

Our stop in Rio Hondo gave us the chance to visit a museum filed with fossils of giant sloths, giant armadillos, mastedons & saber tooth tigers. ...all were found near here.  We also found where some of the clothes we donate to Goodwill end up...here.  I actually bought a shirt with a USA Goodwill tag...for 60 cents.  Just a little ways away, there is a fancy and expensive mall.  Our hotel is also very nice with topiary bushes in the shape of animals, with hundreds of monstrous hanging ferns which surround several pools that had cleverly designed slides in the shape of butterflies, snails, castles, spirals, etc.  Seating in the restruant for 100's with place settings elegantly set...and we are the only ones eating except for the many workers and only saw one other couple in the pool.  It felt like a ghost hotel...or a hollywood movie set.

31

The further we get from the tourist area, the harder it is to find something I want to eat.  I was glad to see corn flakes and milk on the menu...but it didn't say the milk would be hot!  Rog of course, loves the opportunity to try the new and unusual local cuisine with a satisfying smile on his face.  Lucky for me, I have been able to locate, with just a little detective work, a Coke Light or Coke Zero and I can always nibble on my peanuts or spead my peanut butter on something.  

30

After having a plush seat on a big bus for several hours, we got into a mini van for the next part of our trip and since we were the last in, Rog had to crouch standing on one leg while his butt was held into the van by the guy standing in the doorway (most of his body was outside the van & he held on to the roof)...I sat side saddle with my legs hanging out the open door.  Beats being squished in the back with no air & 3 or 4 others!