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Our evenings at base cam are always enjoyable. 5 o'clock meetings are short, light hearted & interesting as we hear about all the groups experiences. Dinners have been fabulous...chicken curry, Chinese, red chili with Jiffy corn bread, egg plant with quinoa, BBQ chicken pizza...all created by AHV's. (I was on the chili/cornbread team). We even had apple & berry pieces with crust from scratch. We have a left-over frig that's free for the taking so that's heaven for Rog. Dinner time is also rich with conversations. We 're enthralled by the experiences we hear about. Average ages is @20. Roger and I are an abnormality due to our age & the only married couple. Staff tells us we are one of the few couples who've worked for AHV...and if they do...usually only one of them is nice :). Kids tell us they want to grow up like us. But we did hear about one couple who celebrated their 75th anniversary here at AHV in Louisiana! Inspiring for us! (See Bob & Elsi--you could join us!).
The days are flowing together now with each a bit different but each connected by the strong undertow of the need to help these people get their lives back. We've worked in 4 homes now...insulating, drywalling, muddling, tapping, painting...and heard the homeowner's flood story and how they yearn to get back into their home. Aug 13, 2016, 39" of rain fell in 19 hours. Up to 12' of water flooded 140,000 homes in 3 parishes. There were 25,000 boat rescues. It's considered the 3rd worst USA disaster of all times. Why didn't we hear more about it?? Election and Olympics news coverage took priority. FEMA did show up and we heard about the red tape, delays, rules & regulations that make FEMA so ineffective. I told some of these young whipper-snappers to get in there & fix that agency! Did you know they only help people with LESS than $15,000 worth of damage? If you apply for a FEMA trailer to live in, if you are approved, you only get it for 18 months or less. Sounds like lots of time till you try to find someone to get gut, sanitize & rebuild...say nothing about rounding up the supplies. Those someone's are working for people with lots of ready $$. So while they wait--black mold grows. Hope dwindles. When AHV shows up & stays on the job till the house if ready for an electrician & plumber--it's no wonder we see the homeowners overwhelmed with relief and joy. Today the homeowner told us her husband is dying of Alzheimer's and we were giving her back her life. I go to bed each night exhausted and deeply satisfied with my day's work.
Hard to believe first week is almost over! It was so easy to fall in sync here. Monday--my birthday--was also a AHV day off...but a crew was asked to volunteer to paint for a lady who'd been waiting over a month for help. Since AHV services does not include painting--"volunteers" from the AHV volunteers could only do it on their day off. Amazingly 9 (including us) climbed in the van & headed to Karen's where we painted the entire interior of her home--some even got second coats--scrapping the bottom of 10 gals of paint! With much enthusiasm, Karen told us about how crazy it was when she woke up to water pouring in & her daughter slapping her face & shouting, "Momma--get it together & DO something!" She grabbed a few things then waded out to her truck & headed for higher ground. There strangers started filling her truck bed with their children and ran saying they'd be back. She ended up with a truck load and a baby in her arms praying their parents would return! It took 3 days for the water to recede...& when her neighbor opened her dryer--3 snakes slithered out! John (retired air force), our crew leader treated us to shrimp Poor Boys for lunch and Janene insisted on stopping for DQ on our way back. It was Taiki's first DQ. After going out for a Mexican dinner, Rog surprised me by baking me a cake & the group gathered to sing Happy Birthday. When we played games. At one time kids from England, Kenya, Brazil, Turkey, Ethiopia, Saudi Arabia & USA sat around a table playing Cards Against Humanity--and I surprised them by winning. (Thanks to Jake & Sarah for teaching me the winning strategy.). Certainly a fulfilling birthday!
Tuesday was back to real work. We worked in a gutted trailer that barely survived the flood and an earlier fire. Really. Nothing was square. Holes everywhere. We struggled to fit drywall pieces with some precision. But with lots of measuring, cutting, shimmering and lots more humor, we made progress. After a mashed potatoes & BBQ chicken dinner, we were introduced to several new people & said good bye to Zak. Gotta love the fluctuating group of hard working, fun-loving people!
Today is actually Day 4 from my "normal" life. Jen drove us to a hotel close to the airport so we could catch a very early flight--first to Houston then on to New Orleans where we spent the night & then called for an Uber ride to Denham Springs- about 1 and 1/2 hours from NO and our home with AHV (All Hands Volunteers). It is basically a warehouse that has been turned into a church. There are about 30 kids housed here right now...up to 60 at highest #. Tarps divide the areas up a bit but it is mostly a mass of blowup beds, cots, tents and gobs of belongings surrounded each. Since we'd asked ahead, we got the "sick" room (at least until they need it again.). It is a church adult Sunday school room: no windows but carpet, lamp, outdoor furniture. Our Amazon bedding order was here and ready to put on our blow up mattresses so we are real comfy. AHV has use of a large kitchen so our first job here was making chicken-vege soup and organizing the kitchen. With only kids here...you can imagine the mess. The 5 o'clock meeting was held in the lounge area which is eight old couches facing the work board. The days accomplishments were cheered, needs we assessed and tomorrow jobs' were assigned. As in the Philippines, we are in awe with how a group of kids from all over just take the ball and run with it!
It's been 10 days of living in a 8 x 10 room with a small fan & thin mat. We store bottled water & Coke Zero under our table & on top we stack food, books, TP, used ziplock bags, 2 cut off water bottles (our cups), 2 styrofoam trays (our plates), sunscreen, bug spray & few other odds & ends. Towels & slightly dirty clothes hang from chairs & curtain rods. Suitcases lay open and over flowing in the corners of the room. The fan moves to where we sit. Showers are cold...which is actually a good thing...but like so many other things...we never know when the water will be on. Dogs fight, frogs croak, neighbors burn garbage & vehicles filled with noisy passengers outside our window. Salamanders, various insects, lines of ants are frequent roommates...cockroaches just occasionally. We live better than most PNG that we see here around PM. Many new developments are usually for the Malaysians. Yesterday we stopped at a hotel to use wifi. It was plush & filled with foreigners paying $300 a night...we're paying $30. Am I jealous...only a little. They have the amenities. We have the PNG people.
Note: We are sure the girl who took it will be dealt with by the teachers & other students...she had even taken a few pictures of her friend. Hope she learns a valuable & lasting lesson!!Another day...another peanut or pbj sandwich. But today we had added excitement. After dismissing the 5th grade class I'd been teaching, I picked up my bag which I'd left at the back of the room...it was lighter than usual. My camera was gone. I told Gordon, a teacher & he hugged me saying sorry, sorry, sorry. Within in minutes, several other teachers, the cooks & a few lingering parents & students were having a pow wow--I heard the word for police. Kids were given a couple kina ($$) and send out in several directions. It was a tense time and everyone kept apologizing and were agonizingly distressed. I felt terrible for not keeping my bag closer to me. In less than 15 minutes, the mood quickly changed to joy when the camera was returned...which I captured on my camera!
The clan & tribe culture and customs is still very much a part of PNG today. There are over 130 tribes which are broken down into clans. Clan rules are deeply rooted like who can marry who & how many wives they can have. Also sons always inherit father's land...which over the years has meant each plot inherited is getting smaller. The riches man is the clan leader. Each clan has it's own language--over 800 in PNG not counting the many dialects! Most speak several languages: local, mother's tongue, neighboring communities. Pidgin English (Tok Pisin) is the common language. English for business. Though I'd love to see their cultural outfits, dress here is very common with men in short or pants & shirts. Woman usually wear a brightly colored tunic top over a skirt. Our newest neighbor, Gibson, a young man who is a rep to the UN for PNG clans, told us elected Gov't officials are duty bound to their tribe/clan so it gets in the way of being effective. He also said many people leave their village & come to PM for the chance to make money so they can buy things like TV & cell phones. But in PM, they can't usually find jobs & life is difficult...they log for their clan & its simple life. They end up living close to their tribesmen where they find undeniable closeness.
As I mentioned before, the first thing people tell you when they meet you is what region they are from. Most of our students are from the Oro region. Most of our free time is spent with people from Mt. Hagen...and we have heard so much about what they call "Paradise"...almost wish we could go there. When they speak of Mt. Hagen they smile widely saying there people lavishly show much love to each other. There is much hand shaking and hand clapping. When they see each other on the street, they shout with vigor, "Hey Man, Where you Go?"...and then belly laugh. Jr tells about their favorite activity of storytelling where everyone laughs loudly at the same time in the same tone and then somehow stop in sync...and the story continues. They grow many types of vegetable & fruits, water is plentiful and homes are made out of local materials without cost. It is also the area where a huge festival featuring 75 tribes is held each year. Sure wish we could be there then!!! It's in the mountains, no road access but 45 min flight which cost about $125. Grace keeps saying to me, "I take you to Mt. Hagen. We go!" Tempting!!
Subject: Update #43 Tembari-Trouble
Arrived at Tembari with lesson plans and materials to start teaching small groups of 15 first graders. Playing follow the leader, we lead our group out under the shade of a tree. We worked on letter ID & sounds & counting with finger ID. Kids were very hesitant about answering or doing anything individually but the many parents sitting around kept encouraging them. We were working with the second small group when we got word--school was closing early & there would be no school tomorrow (Fri). Big boss was here and called a meeting. So just like that, kids left...many walking home for over an hour having only been in school an hour. Teachers and us sat around another hour guessing what was going to happen at the meeting. Evidently this wasn't the first time. Penny...who stated several times she was the founder & director...addressed the staff sternly and emphatically saying she is to make all decisions. She said this was not the first warning for several of the staff and she would be terminating three of them. She welcomed us and apologized to us for having to hear about these issues. Several teachers tried to explained why they had called a previous parent meeting without her knowledge and why they had spent the $ we offered already. She kept repeating...But I am the founder & director and I alone have the vision. Hayward...her husband...said he knew we were coming...though we had no contact or knowledge of him or Penny. Near the end of the meeting, Roger and I both spoke up saying we'd prayed to God to make sure our church funds were spent well and we felt arriving just as the teachers were in distress about what they'd do next...seemed to us the answer to our prayers. As teachers, we totally understood their needs and could see it in every classroom. We were glad to see the money put to good use immediately. We complimented the teachers for doing so well in such challenging conditions. Penny just said thank you for your input. After the meeting--while we waited for our ride--the teachers insisted on waiting with us. They said they would continue to explain & probably no one would be fired. We certainly hope not!! We expressed our concerns but they dismissed them saying "We were like a drink of cold water for them." Humbling. We got back to our room about 1 and sweated the afternoon away by reading while lying on the floor wherever we could feel a small breeze. Lucky for us we had our peanut butter, bread, apples...even a few cookies & cold milk...AND I had one cold Coke Zero saved for times like this!! It was a looooooong afternoon. After it cooled down, we visited with our landlord's family and some of the workers who have been working on this house. It has been in the building process since 2012 and still looks like a construction site complete with piles of broken cement blocks, various torn bags, rears in multitude of sizes & shapes, piles of bits & pieces of lumber, 2 junk cars, 3 lazy dogs scratching and several quite pretty blooming plants. Our view.
Subject: Update #44 Cemetery & Wildlife Park
Since Penny called school off today, we asked Jr & Kay to take us to the Wildlife Park we'd read about--actually the only thing we'd read about in this area that interested us. It had closed up months ago...but they knew of another. On the way, we stopped at a WWII Memorial Cemetery. Immaculate! Each of the thousands of markers had a lovely blooming plant next to it and everyone was trimmed neatly. Amazing! Jr said it looked this nice because many Australians were buried there and it was cared for by them. There was a good 3 D map of the Kokodo Trail where soldiers from PNG, Aus & US fought off the Japanese. The wildlife park was also very well groomed and they were working on building a Ferris wheel, merry-go-round & playground. I was excited to see the bird of paradise--deepest yellow& red colors with long slender tail feathers! And another treat--tree kangaroos! They have a thick & fuzzy looking fur. Some had climbed way up in a tree so we could barely see them. Later in town, I saw a couple people trying to sell caged baby tree kangaroos--poor things!! One of the zoo keepers...who was deaf & didn't speak... followed us bringing out food so the animals would come closer...even the crocodile! He climbed right into the cage, splashed his hand in the water & then petted the croc when it appeared! One of his arms was noticeable crippled. Wonder how that happened?! Around noon it was really hot--felt like we were in a frying pan--so we went to the Nat'l Library. It was not so cool--or nice--but it had wifi!! Caught up on news, emails & got off an update. Always good to hear all is well at home. Left looking for food and had to stop at 3 restaurants before finding one that had at least 1/2 of what was on their menu--it was like a KFC. Final stop was JMart--mostly grocery store. Got lots more water, bread & Coke Zero. Came home to shower & sit in front of our fan.
Subject: Update #45 Port Moresby/Ear Problem/Heat & Books Galore!!
Kay was at church this am so we spent the am reading, sweating, writing, sweating, watching the dogs' tails swat flies, sweating, noticing each passing vehicle...and sweating. It's hot. Though I've always been a hot weather lover...think I found my max! There really is no place safe to walk around here, so here we stay. Heat really does diminish appetites. We barely eat anything...even Roger!! We make a pbj sandwich & nibble on it, slowly munch on some granola or peanuts...but guzzle down water...which we purchase every time we go to town. Water is being rationed in Port Moresby area...turned off from 8 - 2 ...which of course we learned when we tried to shower around 8:15. Kay & Jr picked us up @2 and we first toured Port Moresby. It is quite a modern city with lots of tall buildings & some construction...a long beach area that Jr said use to be quite nice...a big port area...over all it didn't take us long to see what was there. Since my ear has been plugged since our last snorkel trip...and the prescription only med the pharmacist gave me a couple days ago hasn't helped...we headed for a clinic. For $18 a young Filipino Doctor quickly diagnosed my problem: wax exposed to so much water had swollen & closed up my ear (sound familiar Bob??). He had the Rx give me some pure baby oil & said come back in a week to flush it out. Earlier this week I was telling our neighbor, Ruby how sad I was that Tembari students didn't have any books...we'd shopped for them at the mall but they were over $10 each. She suggested going to a 2nd hand store...so that is where we headed right from the clinic. JACKPOT! For $50 we got over 60 books! I was like a kid in a candy store! Most the books appeared to have come from Australia. Many were familiar titles/authors. Can't wait to use them!!
Subject: Update #46 Evening Visit with Ruby-Grace-Workers
Late last night, Ruby brought us some rice, cooked cabbage & chicken. Such a gift! We'd already eaten so we put it in Grace's (our landlady) refrigerator. While there we sat and visited with the workers who were awaiting the supper that Grace was fixing them. They were excited to talk about USA. So tonight...with the help of Grace...I heated up Ruby's gift to us...talking to Grace as it heated. She never went to school but could speak a bit of English and definitely knew how to laugh heartily. We watch the sunset from her kitchen table. Taking the food down to the common area at the end of our hall, we started eating. Soon Ruby asked to join us. We easily chatted with her for the next hour or so. She told us about her village...seems everyone always identifies their village with pride. She has 4 kids who live with her Mom in her village about an hour away. Most jobs besides small stands are in PM so here she stays. She works for Australian Aid--PNG is part of the Commonwealth & call Australia their Mother Country. She use to work for the airlines and was sad that most foreigners had such a bad image of PNG. Lack of jobs...2/3 are unemployed...corrupt Gov't that is selling off their land and resources to foreigners and general poverty...especially the fact that they were exporting their gas & it was refined in other countries & then sold back to them at a high $$...all upset her and rightly so. Ruby asked us lots about USA and we tried to be honest and point out the good and bads...yet without a doubt, we do have it sooo much better. We showed her the books we'd purchased and told her to pick one out for each of her children. She was delighted. Ruby said all the neighbors been asking why Americans would be staying here in this neighborhood. We told her that we are here so we can visit with PNG people, like her & Grace & the workers. If we stayed in a hotel, our visits would be with expats, Asians, Europeans...not PNG people. We might as well just be on a cruise ship floating by. We relish the opportunities to talk to locals...so we don't have AC, bed with thick mattress, wifi, pool, share a bathroom & have to eat pb & j...at least we have a true PNG experience!!
Subject: #47 Sunday AfternoonDrive in the Mtns
We'd thought about going to church today but the closest is behind a tall fence around it's community & it'd be a long walk to get to where the gate was. So we didn't. We were in the shower before 8 this morning, we learn quickly! Kay had to take his wife to Drs. so it was around 11 when we heard his honk...Junior was out looking for another ride for us but we soon met up with him. We headed to the mountains. Such cool and refreshing winds up there with grand views!! We made several stops--to see all the action on the river: swimming, washing clothes & cars. We saw a car that had missed a curve & landed in the river too. We bought some roasted potatoes served on a leaf...Mmm. We all put our heads under a pipe with cold water flowing out. Ahhh. People we passed smiled and waved. People at places we stopped wanted pictures of us...and for us to take their pictures. So many people just sitting under shade trees. Our last stop was at a beautiful college campus run by 7th Day Adv. where we too sat under a shade tree to rest. I had a good discussion with a young girl who will soon be a teacher. We talked about rote learning vs. small group with individuals responding. She said PNG kids are not use to telling you what they think but she was hoping to do the small groups...but with a new Gov't policy of no fee education..the pupil #s have sky rocketed...so chances were slim. I told her whatever happens, teaching is truly a wonderful job and she smiled ear to ear agreeing. Arrived back to our room around 5--took cool showers...not a problems that there is no hot water!! Looking forward to being back at Tembari tomorrow ...with books!!
Subject: Update #48 Teaching Again
I only opened a book and they came...over 100 big & little ones sat in the dirt mesmerized by the words and pictures. I simply love reading aloud to kids--and reading aloud to kids who don't have books or anyone to read to them--it's an absolute thrill!! This time alone makes it all worth it!! Rog and I have been pulling small groups of kids from the lower classes. Some are just learning to write the letter A...others trying to learn to ID letters and a few ready for letter sounds. Today we even worked a tiny bit on blending sounds in word families. In the afternoon, we've been working with the 4th & 5th graders. Rog is doing math & science. I am reading aloud a story asking comp & inference question...discussing main idea, setting, characters & trying to make personal connections...a few catch on which I know when their eyes sparkle! Trying to get any kid..young or old...to answer individually is like pulling teeth...like so many other students we have worked with in our travels. But we coax with a smile and slowly some begin to speak. At recess & lunch, we play games, read aloud and sing songs. Another countries kids have learned to play Doggie, Doggie; Blue Bird, Blue Bird, London Bridges & Follow the Leader! The only games we have seen them play is pick up sticks with pencils, drop kicking a ball and a jumping game called Jingle Jangle. According to the posted schedule, the youngest kids leave at 10, next group at noonand oldest at 2...though in the week & a half we've been here...it hasn't happened yet. Kids sent home cause boss calls teacher meeting or just cancels, rain is coming so need to leave in case streams flood, no water...or it's too hot. During times when they are in session, kids randomly get up and leave to purchase something from nearby vendor or just go for a walk. Since there are sooooo many in a class, don't think the teachers even notice. K class is about 60, Prep class( between K & 1) has 76 & 1st grade 88...all sitting in a hot, shipping container!!! Between the inconsistent and the conditions, it's a wonder they learn anything!!